Just got myself the stainless steel 316 marine grade 1.5mm cable and two stopper/crimps to redo as well. I’ll go ahead and do what you did and see how it works. Thank you again for such a clear and easy video instruction
Thanks for making this video Mike! Was worried that replacing the cables would be somewhat challenging but was relieved to see it was as easy as I had hoped.
Update: The wrap on the cable going through the left side guide had frayed and made turning left a little forced. I opened it back up stripped the wrap off and now works perfectly.
Thanks for the video. I haven't done this yet. I did add plastic washers under the soft washers they have installed on the locking nuts for the rudder. It helped, but maybe won't need them after this mod.
Mike, at seven minutes you remove a small black plastic guide from the center of the control dial, but I didn't see you replace it as you were putting the washers and screws back in?
Very helpful videos. I see there were a couple of comments re how hard it is to raise and lower the rudder. I have read that some people say it works better if you set rudder for a full left turn so the cables pull straighter. I will note that we bought the newer designed perception crank 10 first. The rudder set up looks the same as the pilot 12, but the lines run inside the hull. Other wise same. On the crank the rudder is so easy a child could do it. We bought the larger pilot 12 second and about the only disappointment is the rudder deployment. Why does it work so well on the crank 10 and so poorly on the pilot 12? mark
Mark La Fratta I’m not sure on why the rudder deployment is so difficult. I have experienced this as well. I suspect that the ‘rope’ ‘string’ or whatever stretches and gets loose. That and the hinge is sticking. I’ll look into replacing that ‘cable’ and check out the hinge. Stand by.
@@kayakmike262 well our crank 10.0 and our pilot 12.0 are both new. Crank rudder moves with cables very very easily and pilot is very very hard. Thanks for you attention. MJL
Mark La Fratta I’ve completely disassembled the pivot of the rudder and liberally hosing it all down with WD40 and reassembled. It’s MAYBE a little better but not particularly noticeable. The only solution I’ve found is, like the others, turning the angle full left to raise/lower.
Very nice clear video. I’m getting my new Pescador pilot 12 this week. It is 2019. I don’t know if I’ll need to upgrade the rudder control or not. I’ll give it a try to see how it is as it comes and then decide.
CastaNet Fishing & Kayak Adventures I would seriously think about upgrading the stock rudder control cables to something stiffer. The stock “cables” are more like rope than cable. I’ve found that the stainless steel replacement is so much smoother and easier to control. A huge difference in my opinion. Give it a go and let me know your results! Also would love to hear your first impressions of the Pescador. Tight lines and be safe. Mike
kayakmike262 - right.... I have a buddy that has the 2017 pilot and he done the same. He got stainless steel (but not coated) 1.5mm in Dim and said it is Brilliant. Do you think the coated one is necessary and if yes what the over all diameter of it?
@@SpicyAngler The coated cables might be better for salt water fishing. As long as the cable is stiffer than the stock cordage than I think you will be fine.
kayakmike262 - I have went out today to test my new Pilot 12. The pedal left crank arm got loosened again and again and again. Drove me mad. Any thought. By the way you can check my picking up video from Friday and subscribe to channel if you aren’t already. ruclips.net/video/GSGhcg5gAwU/видео.html
Did your upgrade but it only lasted a week.... And the coating on the the new cable starting gualling "bunching up" and jammed the steering system! So I went back to the original cable and "it's just a matter" of keeping everything right and always adjusted". I even used your washer system from the beginning ..... but it failed me!
Oh no! I’m so sorry to hear that. I’ve had my mod setup for over a year and haven’t noticed anything. I wonder if the materials used to coat the cable changed. If that’s the case use a non-coated cable. Are you in salt water? That could definitely affect a coating. I’ve been in both but mostly fresh water. Based on your experience I am going to take my mod apart and check it out. I’ll let you know what I find out. Thanks for the heads up.
Jay Kevin Waldrop oh man! I hear you. I have yet to find an elegant solution for that. I might try to swap out the “rope” they have with something a bit stiffer. Stand bye. I’ll work on it.
What works for me is to occasionally liberally spray the round section of the rudder with WD40 water resistant silicon and to turn the rudder so it is aligned with the up/down cable when raising/lowering it.
I have found a total solution to the stiff rudder deploy issue: Make sure you point the rudder exactly in the same direction as the rudder deploy lines themselves (this would mean pointing the rudder steer knob 45 degrees to the left, or simply grab rudder and do it manually right before hopping in the kayak). This reduces the amount of force needed to deploy the rudder by like ~50% or more. Also, make sure to keep your kayak cleaned to reduce friction further, particularly grime in between (1) the rudder deploy lines and the kayak, and (2), the rudder pulley itself. Using 303 Marine UV protectant on the hull and on/near the lines helps make the action slicker, and will prevent oxidization.
The plastic guides that you fish the wire through on my kayak came out... I can't seem to get it back in. How screwed am I? I tried to fish the cable through the holes but I cant seem to get it to come near the back where the large circular storage cap is. My next though is to use a magnet to try to fish it back there? any ideas?!?!!?
Same problem here but it looks easy enough. Get some small diameter ridged water or air line that 3/16” ( 1.5 mm ) steel rope will fit into. Buy that rope and line about 25 feet of it. There are videos of people heating up the ends of the tube after pushing through the holes and expanding the ends so that they don’t fall out ( back into the hull ). Basically you fish the tubing through, then secure it by heating the ends with some supports inside so it doesn’t collapse and squish it ( “ mushroom it “ ) to enlarge the end. If your new tubes are larger than the original you may need to drill them out a little.
@@maxmcvicker thank you! I have the plastic tubing but when I try to fish it through the guides (from steering to rudder) it seems the tubing never gets to the other end. Maybe it’s a game of luck to be able to grab it from the rear hatch and then to get it through the rudder hole. I tried it a couple of times with no success.
Great mod, just did this today. Can confirm that the allen/hex size is 3/32 SAE, I have a metric set of hex keys and none of them worked (1.5mm was closest). The kayak has SAE and metric fasteners, I wish they just chose metric. It's a bit tedious to dial in the rudder to be perfectly center. I think the crux of this problem is it's hard to put enough load on both sides of the stiffer replacement rudder lines to reduce all the slack. So finding that perfect center point is a bit ambiguous. I might have have another person hold one end, or use a vice, to slack in rudder lines.
Man this was a nice video you did. That was really easy changing out the rudder cable. Look like it take no time to change it. I also like how you did it barefooted 👣 too. That's how I have to do things too is barefooted 👣 because i have big very very wide feet sz15 6 EEEEEE wide with very fat wide toe that are equally straight across making my foot very very extremely wide. My foot is 6 1/2 inches wide from my big toe to my lil toe and they do not make a shoe , sock , or boot that's wide enough for my foot. It really really sucks have a foot this extremely wide with very fat wide toe cuz the only Footwear that will barely and I mean barely fits on my foot is flip flops which still not wide enough for my foot cuz my toes are wider than the flip flop straps and both of my little toes hanging off the footbed of the flip flops. I make some people laugh when I wear my flip-flops because my little toes are hanging off the foot bed but that's the only Footwear right now that will fit my foot. So this is why I'm 95% of the time barefooted 👣 all year long. Like right now it's 27 degrees outside and I have to wear flip-flops in rain , sleet , or snow. It is awesome to see other people doing things barefooted 👣 since my foot outgrew tennis shoes 33 years ago. It is weird haveing to live this type of life style. Again great video thank you for sharing. I apologize for this being so long.
Great video! My wife and I both fish out of Perception Pilots and love them but the steering has always been less than smooth. Have two sets of cables order! If you run across a hack for a rudder mod for a little sharper turning radius please share!
@@kayakmike262hey there, I just got a Pilot and getting this mod completed. Thank you for the video. Did you ever do anything with the rudder lift? Mine gets quite jammed and looking for logical modifications. Thanks!
well... you didn't specify the size of cable in the notes and I bought the wrong size and struggled for hours because it wouldn't work until i zoomed into the packaging you are holding. UGH! FML!
I’m really sorry that I didn’t explain that well enough. I used the 1.4mm coated cable on mine. I have heard others using the 1.5 and larger non-coated cable. I suspect the uncoated cables were because they were in saltwater? Not sure. But again. I’m sorry you had a tough time with this. My apologies.
Anyone know if the remaining bit of line is enough for another use? I used exactly the amount needed + like 4 inches of tag end combined. I'm too lazy to measure what I used or what I have left. I think it is just by guessing. BTW, you should pin a comment stating what diameter line you used. Towards the beginning of the video, you're showing a shot where the packaging says 1.8mm and you're covering the bit where it says 1.4mm.
What tubing to do use. I would like to use the cable and don’t have tubing through my kayak and would like to not have my cable cutting into my body of my kayak. I have a foot peddle one
Hello and thanks for the question. The perception pescador pilot kayak that I have had hard plastic flexible like tubing installed from the factory. I would suspect that if you were to find some longer pieces of flexible tubing you should be able to create a track for the cable to run in. You will have to experiment my friend:) thanks for the question.
I have thought about it. I may do a video of it in the future. Have you upgraded the rudder? How did you do it? How was the result? Much tighter turns?
When I first got my Pescador Pilot in late2017, I took it out for a test run whilst fishing. I immediately noticed that it had the turning radius of a battleship. The rudder needed more "bite" on the water to make my kayacht turn tighter. So i sourced a piece of aluminum plate, used the factory rudder as a beginning template to create the proper profile. It works great. Not pretty but functional. Only downside is the weak-ass Up/Down portion of the rudder system cannot do anything to lift or lower the heavier aluminum plate: i have to lower/raise it manually.
I used the 1.4mm cable. I liked that thickness because it was stiffer and had plenty of room in the cable tubes. Are you planning on swapping the cables out? Is the rudder turn sticking or the turning mechanism sticking? I think it helps both.
Charles Cox I used the 49 strand coated stainless steel cable 400lb test 1.4mm 30 ft At Amazon or catchalltackle.com/ It is working great. No issues whatsoever. I highly recommend it.
do you have any ideas on how to make the rudder deploy better this morning on my way to the shore I pulled really hard on the rope and the knot came out, it has been like that since brand new.
Charles Cox I am going to try a few different ‘cables / cords’ I’ll post a video when I get it complete. I hear you though. I have a hard time deploying the rudder with the stock setup. I suspect the cordage has a bit to much stretch to it making the pull so hard. I’ve gotten a ton of questions on it so I’ll see what I can come up with. Let me know if you find something that works for you as well. Thanks for the question. -mike
Mine has been really hard to raise and lower since day one. But by spraying Wd40 water resistant silicon on the round center piece of the rudder and always turning the rudder so it is aligned with the cable, it is easy to raise and lower it.
Mike, I just did this mod just like you described on this video. I don't see any difference in the steering tension. Any idea? I used the 1.8mm 49 strand stainless steel black coated cable. Was this cable to large in diameter? Thanks Gary
Gary. I used the 1.4mm coated stainless steel cable. I also lifted the steering mechanism up a bit with some washers. That maybe the piece your looking for. I can’t imagine 1.8mm would be thick enough to impede the movement of the cable. I have heard of some people had links in those tubes that the ran their cables through. I would see if you can check that.
Just picked up my Kayak today used and I will do what you just showed. Thanks Brother. Now I can make my RUclips vids in a good steering Kayak.✌
Thank you
Just got myself the stainless steel 316 marine grade 1.5mm cable and two stopper/crimps to redo as well. I’ll go ahead and do what you did and see how it works. Thank you again for such a clear and easy video instruction
CastaNet Fishing & Kayak Adventures
Awesome. Let me know how the installation goes.
-mike
I just got the 1.4mm version of the cable. Think it will work?
@@jimmyedquilang i think it will yes. Stainless steel ? If it was 1.6mm you might have rub the sleeve tunnel the wire runs in
@@SpicyAngler thanks. My rudder tubes came reversed so I ordered new tubing and cable. When I turn the rudder left the kayak turns right. Lol
@@jimmyedquilang wasn’t t it because the wire was warped around the rudder steering wheel from the other way it should go?
Thanks for making this video Mike! Was worried that replacing the cables would be somewhat challenging but was relieved to see it was as easy as I had hoped.
Have any tips for increasing the size of the rudder? rudder size seems inadequate in current
Thank you, my cable broke this weekend and your video was very helpful
Thanks for the video! I did mine today and it's so much better!
Update: The wrap on the cable going through the left side guide had frayed and made turning left a little forced. I opened it back up stripped the wrap off and now works perfectly.
Yeah. If the tube that the cable runs through is tight don’t use coated cables. I am going to do an update to this video this year.
Thanks for the video. I haven't done this yet. I did add plastic washers under the soft washers they have installed on the locking nuts for the rudder. It helped, but maybe won't need them after this mod.
Let me know your impressions after a few runs with just the washers and if you do the upgrade. Tight lines and be safe!
Mike
Mike, at seven minutes you remove a small black plastic guide from the center of the control dial, but I didn't see you replace it as you were putting the washers and screws back in?
Thanks. Great video. Been looking for a video just like this.
Thanks!
Very helpful videos. I see there were a couple of comments re how hard it is to raise and lower the rudder. I have read that some people say it works better if you set rudder for a full left turn so the cables pull straighter. I will note that we bought the newer designed perception crank 10 first. The rudder set up looks the same as the pilot 12, but the lines run inside the hull. Other wise same. On the crank the rudder is so easy a child could do it. We bought the larger pilot 12 second and about the only disappointment is the rudder deployment. Why does it work so well on the crank 10 and so poorly on the pilot 12? mark
Mark La Fratta I’m not sure on why the rudder deployment is so difficult. I have experienced this as well. I suspect that the ‘rope’ ‘string’ or whatever stretches and gets loose. That and the hinge is sticking. I’ll look into replacing that ‘cable’ and check out the hinge. Stand by.
@@kayakmike262 well our crank 10.0 and our pilot 12.0 are both new. Crank rudder moves with cables very very easily and pilot is very very hard. Thanks for you attention. MJL
@@kayakmike262 let me add myself to the list of the curious who are waiting for you to solve the rudder deployment issue with the Pilot 12. Thanks.
Mark La Fratta I’ve completely disassembled the pivot of the rudder and liberally hosing it all down with WD40 and reassembled. It’s MAYBE a little better but not particularly noticeable. The only solution I’ve found is, like the others, turning the angle full left to raise/lower.
Darrell Gibson Did the WD-40 trick world better for you? Because if it does, that might point to a design issue more than anything. Curious. Thanks!
Very nice clear video. I’m getting my new Pescador pilot 12 this week. It is 2019. I don’t know if I’ll need to upgrade the rudder control or not. I’ll give it a try to see how it is as it comes and then decide.
CastaNet Fishing & Kayak Adventures
I would seriously think about upgrading the stock rudder control cables to something stiffer. The stock “cables” are more like rope than cable. I’ve found that the stainless steel replacement is so much smoother and easier to control. A huge difference in my opinion. Give it a go and let me know your results! Also would love to hear your first impressions of the Pescador.
Tight lines and be safe.
Mike
kayakmike262 - right.... I have a buddy that has the 2017 pilot and he done the same. He got stainless steel (but not coated) 1.5mm in Dim and said it is Brilliant. Do you think the coated one is necessary and if yes what the over all diameter of it?
@@SpicyAngler The coated cables might be better for salt water fishing. As long as the cable is stiffer than the stock cordage than I think you will be fine.
kayakmike262 - I have went out today to test my new Pilot 12. The pedal left crank arm got loosened again and again and again. Drove me mad. Any thought.
By the way you can check my picking up video from Friday and subscribe to channel if you aren’t already.
ruclips.net/video/GSGhcg5gAwU/видео.html
you should i had my kayak less than a year i take my kayak out 2-3 times a month to the ocean and its already tearing im soo glad i found this video
Did your upgrade but it only lasted a week.... And the coating on the the new cable starting gualling "bunching up" and jammed the steering system! So I went back to the original cable and "it's just a matter" of keeping everything right and always adjusted". I even used your washer system from the beginning ..... but it failed me!
Oh no! I’m so sorry to hear that. I’ve had my mod setup for over a year and haven’t noticed anything. I wonder if the materials used to coat the cable changed. If that’s the case use a non-coated cable. Are you in salt water? That could definitely affect a coating. I’ve been in both but mostly fresh water. Based on your experience I am going to take my mod apart and check it out. I’ll let you know what I find out. Thanks for the heads up.
Would like a follow up on this. Should i use a non coated cable? I’m also worried bc I’ll be doing a lot of saltwater fishing
Can you do a vid on why the rudder is so stiff about going up and down?
Jay Kevin Waldrop oh man! I hear you. I have yet to find an elegant solution for that. I might try to swap out the “rope” they have with something a bit stiffer. Stand bye. I’ll work on it.
What works for me is to occasionally liberally spray the round section of the rudder with WD40 water resistant silicon and to turn the rudder so it is aligned with the up/down cable when raising/lowering it.
I have found a total solution to the stiff rudder deploy issue: Make sure you point the rudder exactly in the same direction as the rudder deploy lines themselves (this would mean pointing the rudder steer knob 45 degrees to the left, or simply grab rudder and do it manually right before hopping in the kayak). This reduces the amount of force needed to deploy the rudder by like ~50% or more. Also, make sure to keep your kayak cleaned to reduce friction further, particularly grime in between (1) the rudder deploy lines and the kayak, and (2), the rudder pulley itself. Using 303 Marine UV protectant on the hull and on/near the lines helps make the action slicker, and will prevent oxidization.
The plastic guides that you fish the wire through on my kayak came out... I can't seem to get it back in. How screwed am I? I tried to fish the cable through the holes but I cant seem to get it to come near the back where the large circular storage cap is. My next though is to use a magnet to try to fish it back there? any ideas?!?!!?
Same problem here but it looks easy enough. Get some small diameter ridged water or air line that 3/16” ( 1.5 mm ) steel rope will fit into. Buy that rope and line about 25 feet of it. There are videos of people heating up the ends of the tube after pushing through the holes and expanding the ends so that they don’t fall out ( back into the hull ). Basically you fish the tubing through, then secure it by heating the ends with some supports inside so it doesn’t collapse and squish it ( “ mushroom it “ ) to enlarge the end. If your new tubes are larger than the original you may need to drill them out a little.
@@maxmcvicker thank you!
I have the plastic tubing but when I try to fish it through the guides (from steering to rudder) it seems the tubing never gets to the other end. Maybe it’s a game of luck to be able to grab it from the rear hatch and then to get it through the rudder hole. I tried it a couple of times with no success.
Great mod, just did this today. Can confirm that the allen/hex size is 3/32 SAE, I have a metric set of hex keys and none of them worked (1.5mm was closest). The kayak has SAE and metric fasteners, I wish they just chose metric. It's a bit tedious to dial in the rudder to be perfectly center. I think the crux of this problem is it's hard to put enough load on both sides of the stiffer replacement rudder lines to reduce all the slack. So finding that perfect center point is a bit ambiguous. I might have have another person hold one end, or use a vice, to slack in rudder lines.
Just did mine. Nice and smooth, thanks
7:36 - My two bolts were the same size.
Man this was a nice video you did. That was really easy changing out the rudder cable. Look like it take no time to change it. I also like how you did it barefooted 👣 too. That's how I have to do things too is barefooted 👣 because i have big very very wide feet sz15 6 EEEEEE wide with very fat wide toe that are equally straight across making my foot very very extremely wide. My foot is 6 1/2 inches wide from my big toe to my lil toe and they do not make a shoe , sock , or boot that's wide enough for my foot. It really really sucks have a foot this extremely wide with very fat wide toe cuz the only Footwear that will barely and I mean barely fits on my foot is flip flops which still not wide enough for my foot cuz my toes are wider than the flip flop straps and both of my little toes hanging off the footbed of the flip flops. I make some people laugh when I wear my flip-flops because my little toes are hanging off the foot bed but that's the only Footwear right now that will fit my foot. So this is why I'm 95% of the time barefooted 👣 all year long. Like right now it's 27 degrees outside and I have to wear flip-flops in rain , sleet , or snow. It is awesome to see other people doing things barefooted 👣 since my foot outgrew tennis shoes 33 years ago. It is weird haveing to live this type of life style. Again great video thank you for sharing. I apologize for this being so long.
We just bought our kayaks when should we do this ? And where do you get that cable ?
With a new kayak I wouldn’t worry about it just yet. Hey used to your kayak and setup first. Figure out what works for you:)
Also. I ordered the cable from Amazon.
@@kayakmike262 This was posted a while ago what size cable did you order to refresh my memory
Great video! My wife and I both fish out of Perception Pilots and love them but the steering has always been less than smooth. Have two sets of cables order! If you run across a hack for a rudder mod for a little sharper turning radius please share!
I’m working on a few updates to old videos and I may or may not have a mod for the rudder cable:) stand by.
Very helpful. Thanks
Great video. Going to follow your guide with my new Pilot. Did you also swap out the cables on the rudder lift? Any suggestions?
Hey thanks for checking in. I didn’t swap the rudder deployment cables yet. I have some experimenting to do on that. Stay tuned.
@@kayakmike262hey there, I just got a Pilot and getting this mod completed. Thank you for the video. Did you ever do anything with the rudder lift? Mine gets quite jammed and looking for logical modifications. Thanks!
well... you didn't specify the size of cable in the notes and I bought the wrong size and struggled for hours because it wouldn't work until i zoomed into the packaging you are holding. UGH! FML!
I’m really sorry that I didn’t explain that well enough. I used the 1.4mm coated cable on mine. I have heard others using the 1.5 and larger non-coated cable. I suspect the uncoated cables were because they were in saltwater? Not sure. But again. I’m sorry you had a tough time with this. My apologies.
@@kayakmike262 I ended up buying the 1.4mm and it worked perfectly.
Anyone know if the remaining bit of line is enough for another use? I used exactly the amount needed + like 4 inches of tag end combined. I'm too lazy to measure what I used or what I have left. I think it is just by guessing. BTW, you should pin a comment stating what diameter line you used. Towards the beginning of the video, you're showing a shot where the packaging says 1.8mm and you're covering the bit where it says 1.4mm.
Do you know where a new cable spool with the locking but can be purchased?
Hello, and thanks for the question. I got the cable form Amazon. It came with the locking crimp pieces. Thanks for the question.
What tubing to do use. I would like to use the cable and don’t have tubing through my kayak and would like to not have my cable cutting into my body of my kayak. I have a foot peddle one
Hello and thanks for the question. The perception pescador pilot kayak that I have had hard plastic flexible like tubing installed from the factory. I would suspect that if you were to find some longer pieces of flexible tubing you should be able to create a track for the cable to run in. You will have to experiment my friend:) thanks for the question.
Have you thought about upgrading your rudder to a little bit bigger one?
I have thought about it. I may do a video of it in the future. Have you upgraded the rudder? How did you do it? How was the result? Much tighter turns?
When I first got my Pescador Pilot in late2017, I took it out for a test run whilst fishing. I immediately noticed that it had the turning radius of a battleship. The rudder needed more "bite" on the water to make my kayacht turn tighter. So i sourced a piece of aluminum plate, used the factory rudder as a beginning template to create the proper profile. It works great. Not pretty but functional. Only downside is the weak-ass Up/Down portion of the rudder system cannot do anything to lift or lower the heavier aluminum plate: i have to lower/raise it manually.
What size cable wire there a few to choose from
49 strand coated stainless steel cable 400lb test
1.4mm 30 ft
At Amazon or
catchalltackle.com/
The Amazon listing has several diameter cables. What diameter cable did you use?
I used the 1.4mm cable. I liked that thickness because it was stiffer and had plenty of room in the cable tubes. Are you planning on swapping the cables out? Is the rudder turn sticking or the turning mechanism sticking? I think it helps both.
Amazon has different sizes for this kit I don't understand why? can you explain, and how is this kit holding up for you?
Charles Cox I used the 49 strand coated stainless steel cable 400lb test
1.4mm 30 ft
At Amazon or
catchalltackle.com/
It is working great. No issues whatsoever. I highly recommend it.
Worked great for me too.
do you have any ideas on how to make the rudder deploy better this morning on my way to the shore I pulled really hard on the rope and the knot came out, it has been like that since brand new.
Charles Cox I am going to try a few different ‘cables / cords’ I’ll post a video when I get it complete. I hear you though. I have a hard time deploying the rudder with the stock setup. I suspect the cordage has a bit to much stretch to it making the pull so hard. I’ve gotten a ton of questions on it so I’ll see what I can come up with. Let me know if you find something that works for you as well. Thanks for the question.
-mike
Mine has been really hard to raise and lower since day one. But by spraying Wd40 water resistant silicon on the round center piece of the rudder and always turning the rudder so it is aligned with the cable, it is easy to raise and lower it.
what size washers did you use to lift up steering control
Mike, I just did this mod just like you described on this video. I don't see any difference in the steering tension. Any idea? I used the 1.8mm 49 strand stainless steel black coated cable. Was this cable to large in diameter? Thanks Gary
Gary. I used the 1.4mm coated stainless steel cable. I also lifted the steering mechanism up a bit with some washers. That maybe the piece your looking for. I can’t imagine 1.8mm would be thick enough to impede the movement of the cable. I have heard of some people had links in those tubes that the ran their cables through. I would see if you can check that.
kayakmike262 - Mike, I changed the cable to the 1.4 mm and it freed up the steering. So the 1.8 was to large. Thank you!!’