I'm giving away a BRAND NEW STIHL MS 261 chainsaw! Enter now through November 23, 2023 (Thanksgiving Day). Details here: ruclips.net/video/ZBVu7w2BElM/видео.html
I have used my 261 for a few years. I had a a larger Stihl before that. It was a hard starter that we never figured out why it fought back in a cold start. Then I get this 261. Always use best gas, Stihl oil, etc. But I discovered a quirk: it is a hard starter when it's hot out. Dammit! Not again! Two tricks I use to solve the problem. 1. When the tank is ALMOST empty the engine revs change for a couple seconds and I immediately start it down. Like it grabs an air bubble and has a very tiny hiccup but keeps running. Quick shutdown keeps gas in the line so I don't have to pull and pull to reprime. 2. As I'm refueling, adding bar oil, I have my electric leaf blower on low aimed at the front shooting a blast down the bar at the muffler. It happens to work out that way on my tailgate, probably doesn't matter how it's aimed. This ended my (apparent) vapor lock type problem. This fussy procedure isn't really hard to do and the saw starts on one pull every time since I started doing it. I'd probably get the same saw again if I break this one. Even though the dealer couldn't determine why it doesn't like the heat... I cut LOTS of wood with a friend who has a small business. He has a few saws. We both agree that each saw can have a bit of a personality. LOL
My 261 starts with one pull everytime when hot. Just make sure that your saw has good spark plug, clean airfilter and most important, the carburetor is not clogged. I have been using synthetic gas instead of the regular gas.
One important aspect of power saws that gets neglected when discussing power is a new saws rings have not seated yet so the more you run it the better it gets. When I first got my 261 I was disappointed with the power not matching up to the general hype. Having owned it now for two years and being well broken in I am more than happy with it. Not knowing very much about power saws two years ago to a much better understanding now has been very rewarding. I bought an Oregon bench mounted chain sharpener which made a huge difference for me, a sharp chain is a joy to work with. I use my 261 for bucking firewood up to 12 inches in diameter or so and use my 462 for the larger logs not that the 261 can’t handle larger logs it’s just the 462 is faster. At 72 years old I am no spring chicken and I really appreciate the lightness of my 261. This saw truly does get better power after it is broken in and I highly recommend it too.
I tried and tested both 550 xp and 261 cm. The 550 definitely has more power, no denying that. But to me the 550 felt foreign in my hands. I couldn’t get comfortable with it. The 261 just felt natural. Chainsaw’s are like rifles you need to be comfortable and confident in the tool you are using. Way more important than power alone. Again the 550 is an excellent choice, just not for me. I am grateful I was able to try both before spending 1000 $ Canadian on a saw that I didn’t like.
i got one of these saws back in 2010 when the aussie dollar reached parity with the US, had a friend ship it over cost about 700aud landed versus $1250aud what the local sellers were doing at the time, the one i got has been flawless after initially 2 OEM CDI units dying, ended up replacing with an aftermarket knock of one and its sang like a canary since. also de-restricted the muffler and knocked the limiter out of the carb adjustment so i could richen it up a tad. just used it yesterday to clean up a tree that fell over out fence. cant believe its been 13 years!!
Mine came with the 18" B&C. I immediately upgraded it to a 20" B&C and run 3/8 pitch skip chisel chains. The saw has plenty of power for that combo, but you have to keep the chain sharp and not lean into the cut to aggressively. Let the sharp chain pull itself thru the log. For the bigger bucking, the 500i gets pulled in to duty.
I had one of these and 2 stihl 362's at the DNR. I preferred this one because it was lighter, smaller, and could still get the jobs done. I also ran it over once, snapped the black handle, but it still worked... lol
Had nothing but problems with mine at first was the first m-tronic version. Nowhere in manual did it tell how to reset it resulting in the saw just quitting. After 4 years of problems finally got a new fuel seliond and found out how program m-tronic works fine now and is a very ergonomic saw
I’ve ran the 260 and the 261 but like others have said, keep the chain sharp, don’t trim your rakers too deep or try to take too hard of a bite into the tree. Mine always run best at high rpm but really slow down if I push em too hard. I like it for climbing when I need a little more than my 200t but once I hit the ground I switch to the 360 with 24” bar. On a side note, both my 260 and 261 have been the most finicky saws when it comes to the fuel mix. If the mix is perfect they run like a raped ape, but just a bit rich costs me a lot of rpm’s. Even when the same fuel is running great in the 220, 360 and 661. Maybe it jus me.
I just drove 6 hours round trip to pick up a 261 cm from a gentleman that is moving from the country to become a townie lol. Literally not a scratch on it only made a few cuts with a new stihl hard case and gallon jug of bar oil minus the one tank he used for $500
The sluggish throttle response is because of the Zama carb, my MS260 is real snappy and it has a Walbro. I also gutted the baffle inside the muffler and opened up the exhaust port a bit.
I bought this saw about a month ago. Only issue I have with the m tronic so far is if you don't let it go to idle before shutting it off, or you're cutting and run out of fuel in the cut with rpms high, the m tronic will be shut off basically and saw doesn't start as easy again
I have a stihl 170, 261, 362, and most recently bought a echo Cs-590 and I’ve got to say after getting the echo it’s my go to saw now would take it over any of my stihl saws.
I have to disagree on your issue of balance. I run a 20" on mine and balance is perfect. It had an 18" bar on it and I believe it is better balanced with the 20
Your rev issues mean you just need to adjust the carb. I have tuned mine and have almost immediate full RPM. And pulls the 20" really well in lodgepole and doug fir.
I noticed the lag in the throttle but I keep my blade spinning while I’m limbing branch to branch. Love this saw. It’s the biggest I’ve bought and look forward to another. Probably a topping saw next
Nice job on videos, i have a small collection of stihl and husky, the stihls with the best rev i have found are those old 025’s or 023’s. Those saws were amazing for their time and very light!
I have the option of getting the ms 261 cm or the ms 261 without the M-Tronics. Price is identical. What would be the better option/saw? I like holding on to stuff for a long time Thanks!
This saw works great for me also, but only when using the Husky, Stihl or other engineered fuels. I have been running 90 octane non-ethanol gas in my Stihl 029 and other two cycle equipment for many years with no running or mechanical problems. When using that same fuel in my 261C I get frequent shut-downs and hard starts. My Stihl dealer tells me my non-ethanol gas is too low octane (at 90) for the 261C that I need to run fuel with a 93/94 octane rating. Here in my area of Pennsylvania I can’t find non-ethanol gas with an octane rating above 90. Hence I’m paying the price ($25-$30) a gallon for fuel on my 261C. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same and if they might suggest a reliable solution?
I own a 261 CM that I have had for 3 years and three months. It has been used extensively but cared for extensively as well. It started leaking gas and the diagnosis is that the gas tank has separated from the body of the saw. Cost to repair is over $400 for a saw that currently costs around $700. The high cost is a design issue. Meaning, that the gas tank is part of the lower body of the saw and that entire part of the saw must be replaced. Not a positive outcome. Nonetheless, I just bought a replacement 261. Any input on the repair process as I would like to do the repair myself. Thanks, Jim
This saw is on my wish list. I love my 025 but its starting to lose its pep. But i cant justify buying a 261 yet because im just cutting for the shop i work at and for my mom. But for sure going to get a pro saw for my next saw because you can rebuild them easily and get alot more life out of them. Thanks for the honest review
I hear you. All good things in their time. Delayed gratification is a good practice. If you're like me, you'll research the heck out of whatever it is so that, when the right time comes, you make the right purchase.
I seen when to recalabrate the saw it needs to be started with the switch all the way down in the choke postion i always start my stihl equiment with the choke on until it pops then move the switch up are eles it floods what am i not understanding
It wouldn't hurt to run it by a dealer, if you have one nearby. They could look it over for you. I also have a video on how I maintain mine. If you think it could be helpful, here's the link. ruclips.net/video/36gnwPwMZFk/видео.html
I have the 20" bar & one definitely feels the balance issue described. Think I'll pick up an 18" bar and give that a go for awhile. Great video, keep em coming...
So if you could only have one, would you go with the 261 or the 550xp Mark II? I’m partial to Husky myself and have a 372xp that I love. I just wonder how the 550xp Mark II will hold up long term. I know they had some issues with the first generation 550xps, so hopefully they got the kinks worked out!
Have a 550xp bought new in 2015 and I must say it is the toughest saw I have ever owned. The saw has ripped lots of big rounds ..44" and larger....has cut too many cords of oak and hickory to even count and has never gave a minutes trouble. One of the best and most reliable saws ever made in my experience.
I have stihl ms 261 non-mtronic WhenI try to put on the chain and the side cover, It is a bit difficult for me to turn the nuts. Does it mean that the threads in the nuts of the side cover are worn out or the threads on the bar stud is worn out? What can I do if either of those is worn out. Can I use it in this way because I can turn it with a spanner but can’t turn it by hand?
I was really close to buying the stihl ms261 non mtrononic. Ended up buying the echo cs620p for a little more cc. I think I would have been very happy with the 261 too though.
Hey, man, I'm giving away an MS 261 on the channel right now to celebrate 10,000 subscribers. Just wanted to let you know in case you are still wishing for one! Check it out here: ruclips.net/video/ZBVu7w2BElM/видео.html
Husqvarna has faster revving saws, but less torque than Stihl saws. Stihl revs up a fraction of a second slower, but it has more torque and is miles better in the cut because of that. The clutch on Stihl saws is also more forgiving in design. All this means that Stihl wont stall as easily in the cut - even if you lean on it a bit and the revs drop. Husqvarna has to be revved up all the time to make the cut. So overall Stihl is the more relaxing saw for me to use and that matters a lot especially once i get tired from hours of cutting. To each his own though.
This saw is awesome. It revs higher then other saws, power to weight is great. Sthil dealers do not have all the parts you need, order and supply chain is slow. I bought this pro saw because I'm waiting on parts on 2 other saws. As I really use my saws.
I'm a homeowner that will occasionally need to cut down trees on my property. I've looked at stihl, echo, and huskavarna saws. Looking at the price points, I was thinking of just spending the extra money and not every having to buy another saw. Besides the price point of $700, is there really any reason NOT to buy the 261 C-M? It seems like it also has the best fuel system in it and I won't have to mess around with idle and mixture settings. If you don't think this one is right for a homeowner that will occasionally have small jobs on the property, and you have a good reason not to recommend this, is there another recommendation you'd have for me? Currently I'm looking at getting the stihl 261C-M in 20" because it seems like it can be used for any size tree that I'd have to worry about on my property.
I was in the same position 3yrs ago. I do NOT regret my purchase or the extra cash spent. FYI I haven't done any mods except run the 16in bar as it feels best stock that way.
I say go for it. It might be overkill, but it should be able to handle whatever you need it to. It's a great saw. This video might be helpful. ruclips.net/video/4ysGRSirmjI/видео.htmlsi=CO_3wZb7eHNKeLl8
@@OldSchoolMillennial I spent the extra money and got the 261cm. To me it was worth the extra money to have a fuel system that adjusts itself and doesn't have screws that can vibrate loose and change adjustment. Also I like the fact that the system auto adjusts to the air filter getting dirty and altitude changes automatically. I went to a friend's house with it and we cut 6 trees down in his property that were dead for a while. I think it's a great saw and he showed me how to use it safely. I couldn't be happier with the purchase.
Only stihl ms 261 non-mtronoc is supported in my country. Is it possible to order the parts for stihl ms 261 cm if I take it to Bulgaria and it breaks down?
The 261 will do most things that you will encounter. As long as your trees aren't much bigger than 20" you should be good with the 261. Also, I like to pair my 50cc saws with a 70cc saw for the bigger stuff. Good luck, man!
@@OldSchoolMillennial Primary use is cutting firewood and general cleanup around the property. Between my Dad and I we burn 10 cords a year for heat. If the tree trunk is bigger than 18" I generally don't want to mess with it as the rounds are a bear to move around for splitting. I'm used to a Husqvarna 455 with an 18" bar. Decent saw, but on the heavy side for the power and definitely bogs down quite a bit going through 16-18" hardwood. The 455 comes stock with 3/8 pitch, I think it might do better with 0.325, or a 16" bar. We seem to be pretty like-minded and I enjoy your channel. Keep it up!
Just wanted to let you know that I'm giving a MS 261 away on the channel right now, in case you are still in the market. You can enter here: ruclips.net/video/ZBVu7w2BElM/видео.html
Great honest review. Since you have this one and the husky version, does the slightly heavier weight of the husky wear you out quicker, or is this more about balance?
Thanks man! I honestly don't feel the difference. It's about a half pound. The balance really makes up for the weight difference. Both saws are light weight and easy to run all day without getting tired.
@@ililiserver I would say if you have both dealers readily available I personally prefer the Husqvarna 550 Mark 2. But if you only have a stihl dealer nearby you can't go wrong with the stihl 261c. Hope that helps. That's a great present btw!
In Norway they recommend 13 to 18 inch bar on the 261 I use a 16 inch the 18 inch takes to much of the power and it ruins the balance I also have a 362 witch I use with a 18 inch bar and hexa chain I'm planning to get a 462 with a 25 inch bar
I understand completely. I too have a reason to come home safe at the end of the day. I didn't for a long time. It's amazing how ones attitude can change for the better.
Both 261 (Old and New) are sweet. But. If money is no concerned, the 400CM is much better. Around the same weight & FAR more powerful and snappy. The longevity of a 261 is something established. Like other said, I feel the 20 in bar is a better fit.
If you're a homeowner/diy guy save yourself some money and buy an ms250. I've cut lots of oak with mine up to 22" in diameter and it does great. A pro saw will do it faster,but at twice the price. I cut around 5 cord of firewood a year with an ms250, ms310, and ms441c. The majority is cut with the ms250 because it's so light and nimble with an 18" bar.
Hey! good review! recently bought myself the same saw. really liked how it works. can you tell what kind of oil you mix with gasoline to prepare the fuel mixture? thanks!
Thanks! I typically use stihl 2 cycle that comes in the silver bottles or the stihl premix that they sell. The premix is a little more expensive than mixing my own but it is non ethanol and saves me a lot of trouble that ethanol can cause in carburetors that sit for a period of time.
I have the MS 261 C-M and I cannot get it to run and stay running for more than 2 tanks of gas a time. Whenever I come back to it the next day it starts up fine and runs well until I've gone through a tank or two of gas. What am I doing wrong?
@@rcw3586 Yes, I wound up taking it to a dealership. There was a large hole on an internal component that apparently only occurs if one runs the chainsaw without a chain for an extended period of time. I hadn't done that, so I believe it was a manufacturing defect. They dealership has had it for a month or two now waiting for the replacement part(s). Given how hot it has been, I'm not exactly upset. I am curious what it'll cost me though.
It really depends on the size of wood and how often you will be cutting. If you only cut a handful of times per year, the 170 will likely work fine as long as the wood isn't over 18". Bigger than that, you may want to look at the MS 250 or 271 farm boss if you don't want to go with the 261. Hope that helps.
I have a 170 and it is fine for limbing, you can put a metal dog and side tensioner for $25. The oiler ports on the bar can clog so carefully clean those often.
Depends on your needs. If you want to have a little bit lighter saw you could run a light bar on your 362. If you need to cut some bigger trees the 462 would come in handy.
If you could only have two saws what would it be. I’m in the market for professional saw. I like to have one for limbing and one for felling. Just wanted to know your thoughts.
If I could only have two saws I would likely go with a 50cc saw and a 70cc-95cc saw. This would cover most cutting situations. On the stihl side that would be an MS261 C and either a 462/500i/661. On the Husky side it would be a 550xp Mark II and either a 372/572/390/592. I know that's more options for the big saws but it really depends on the biggest trees you encounter. Hope that helps.
I've had a mark 1 550 xps and wouldnt buy another.ive had it ten years and rebuilt it once and now it needs it again. My stihl saws are roughly the same age and are still running strong. For smaller stuff( up to 20") I run an ms250, and a ms310,but keep an ms441c with a 28" bar for bigger stuff.
Stihl’s M-Tronic electronic carburetor is complete trash. MS-362CM specifically. I can’t recount the number of times they have failed to idle in the middle of a back cut whether on the ground or aloft. Having to pull start them while simultaneously holding the throttle fully open is not only dangerous but it’s exhausting. Ditch M-Tronic imho
Ah glad I picked up a 261 non-cm. If you gotta do the full throttle with a bunch of pulls, it prob means it's flooding. Stuck/faulty solenoid could cause this. BTW, use the chain brake when starting it throttled. It's safer.
@@DH-zv8ou 261 is one of my favorite saws. Runs like a scalded dog. 2-4-6 lineup with Stihls is a good lineup. 261, 462, 661. Application is the mother of necessity in timber.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm giving away a BRAND NEW STIHL MS 261 chainsaw! Enter now through November 23, 2023 (Thanksgiving Day). Details here: ruclips.net/video/ZBVu7w2BElM/видео.html
I have used my 261 for a few years. I had a a larger Stihl before that. It was a hard starter that we never figured out why it fought back in a cold start. Then I get this 261. Always use best gas, Stihl oil, etc. But I discovered a quirk: it is a hard starter when it's hot out. Dammit! Not again!
Two tricks I use to solve the problem.
1. When the tank is ALMOST empty the engine revs change for a couple seconds and I immediately start it down. Like it grabs an air bubble and has a very tiny hiccup but keeps running. Quick shutdown keeps gas in the line so I don't have to pull and pull to reprime.
2. As I'm refueling, adding bar oil, I have my electric leaf blower on low aimed at the front shooting a blast down the bar at the muffler. It happens to work out that way on my tailgate, probably doesn't matter how it's aimed. This ended my (apparent) vapor lock type problem.
This fussy procedure isn't really hard to do and the saw starts on one pull every time since I started doing it.
I'd probably get the same saw again if I break this one. Even though the dealer couldn't determine why it doesn't like the heat...
I cut LOTS of wood with a friend who has a small business. He has a few saws. We both agree that each saw can have a bit of a personality. LOL
My 261 starts with one pull everytime when hot. Just make sure that your saw has good spark plug, clean airfilter and most important, the carburetor is not clogged. I have been using synthetic gas instead of the regular gas.
One important aspect of power saws that gets neglected when discussing power is a new saws rings have not seated yet so the more you run it the better it gets. When I first got my 261 I was disappointed with the power not matching up to the general hype. Having owned it now for two years and being well broken in I am more than happy with it. Not knowing very much about power saws two years ago to a much better understanding now has been very rewarding. I bought an Oregon bench mounted chain sharpener which made a huge difference for me, a sharp chain is a joy to work with. I use my 261 for bucking firewood up to 12 inches in diameter or so and use my 462 for the larger logs not that the 261 can’t handle larger logs it’s just the 462 is faster. At 72 years old I am no spring chicken and I really appreciate the lightness of my 261. This saw truly does get better power after it is broken in and I highly recommend it too.
I tried and tested both 550 xp and 261 cm. The 550 definitely has more power, no denying that. But to me the 550 felt foreign in my hands. I couldn’t get comfortable with it. The 261 just felt natural. Chainsaw’s are like rifles you need to be comfortable and confident in the tool you are using. Way more important than power alone. Again the 550 is an excellent choice, just not for me. I am grateful I was able to try both before spending 1000 $ Canadian on a saw that I didn’t like.
Perfectly put! This chainsaw is perfect
i got one of these saws back in 2010 when the aussie dollar reached parity with the US, had a friend ship it over cost about 700aud landed versus $1250aud what the local sellers were doing at the time, the one i got has been flawless after initially 2 OEM CDI units dying, ended up replacing with an aftermarket knock of one and its sang like a canary since. also de-restricted the muffler and knocked the limiter out of the carb adjustment so i could richen it up a tad. just used it yesterday to clean up a tree that fell over out fence. cant believe its been 13 years!!
Mine came with the 18" B&C. I immediately upgraded it to a 20" B&C and run 3/8 pitch skip chisel chains. The saw has plenty of power for that combo, but you have to keep the chain sharp and not lean into the cut to aggressively. Let the sharp chain pull itself thru the log. For the bigger bucking, the 500i gets pulled in to duty.
I had one of these and 2 stihl 362's at the DNR. I preferred this one because it was lighter, smaller, and could still get the jobs done. I also ran it over once, snapped the black handle, but it still worked... lol
Had nothing but problems with mine at first was the first m-tronic version. Nowhere in manual did it tell how to reset it resulting in the saw just quitting. After 4 years of problems finally got a new fuel seliond and found out how program m-tronic works fine now and is a very ergonomic saw
I’ve ran the 260 and the 261 but like others have said, keep the chain sharp, don’t trim your rakers too deep or try to take too hard of a bite into the tree. Mine always run best at high rpm but really slow down if I push em too hard. I like it for climbing when I need a little more than my 200t but once I hit the ground I switch to the 360 with 24” bar.
On a side note, both my 260 and 261 have been the most finicky saws when it comes to the fuel mix. If the mix is perfect they run like a raped ape, but just a bit rich costs me a lot of rpm’s. Even when the same fuel is running great in the 220, 360 and 661. Maybe it jus me.
I just drove 6 hours round trip to pick up a 261 cm from a gentleman that is moving from the country to become a townie lol. Literally not a scratch on it only made a few cuts with a new stihl hard case and gallon jug of bar oil minus the one tank he used for $500
He's moving in the opposite direction that I moved. I guess the grass is always greener. You're going to love you new saw!
Just bought a 261 C a few weeks ago based off of your first review. It’s awesome, thanks for the good video content, keep it up 👍
Awesome! You're going to love it. Thanks for your support!
I have been using my -261 for years. It just performs without any issues
I had the 260 model before the 261 they're both phenomenal saws. I've owned and operated a tree service for 20-plus years. Stihl is the only way to go
Thanks for sharing your experience with us, man. It helps others who are trying to decide.
No stihl is not the only way to go. Plenty of good saws out there besides Stihl. Don’t be a fanboy!
The sluggish throttle response is because of the Zama carb, my MS260 is real snappy and it has a Walbro. I also gutted the baffle inside the muffler and opened up the exhaust port a bit.
Zama makes great carburetors its like Holly vs edelbrock
I bought this saw about a month ago. Only issue I have with the m tronic so far is if you don't let it go to idle before shutting it off, or you're cutting and run out of fuel in the cut with rpms high, the m tronic will be shut off basically and saw doesn't start as easy again
I have a stihl 170, 261, 362, and most recently bought a echo Cs-590 and I’ve got to say after getting the echo it’s my go to saw now would take it over any of my stihl saws.
You are gay it seems
I have to disagree on your issue of balance. I run a 20" on mine and balance is perfect. It had an 18" bar on it and I believe it is better balanced with the 20
Iove my 261. The only thing I don't care for is when I use it to noodle. As far as a firewood saw, it's really good. Light, fast, and dependable.
Exactly! I love using this saw for firewood.
Your rev issues mean you just need to adjust the carb. I have tuned mine and have almost immediate full RPM. And pulls the 20" really well in lodgepole and doug fir.
I noticed the lag in the throttle but I keep my blade spinning while I’m limbing branch to branch. Love this saw. It’s the biggest I’ve bought and look forward to another. Probably a topping saw next
Nice job on videos, i have a small collection of stihl and husky, the stihls with the best rev i have found are those old 025’s or 023’s. Those saws were amazing for their time and very light!
I had an 023, and really really liked it
I have the option of getting the ms 261 cm or the ms 261 without the M-Tronics. Price is identical. What would be the better option/saw? I like holding on to stuff for a long time
Thanks!
This saw works great for me also, but only when using the Husky, Stihl or other engineered fuels. I have been running 90 octane non-ethanol gas in my Stihl 029 and other two cycle equipment for many years with no running or mechanical problems. When using that same fuel in my 261C I get frequent shut-downs and hard starts. My Stihl dealer tells me my non-ethanol gas is too low octane (at 90) for the 261C that I need to run fuel with a 93/94 octane rating. Here in my area of Pennsylvania I can’t find non-ethanol gas with an octane rating above 90. Hence I’m paying the price ($25-$30) a gallon for fuel on my 261C. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same and if they might suggest a reliable solution?
I own a 261 CM that I have had for 3 years and three months. It has been used extensively but cared for extensively as well. It started leaking gas and the diagnosis is that the gas tank has separated from the body of the saw. Cost to repair is over $400 for a saw that currently costs around $700. The high cost is a design issue. Meaning, that the gas tank is part of the lower body of the saw and that entire part of the saw must be replaced. Not a positive outcome. Nonetheless, I just bought a replacement 261. Any input on the repair process as I would like to do the repair myself. Thanks, Jim
Good review. In Europe this saw is mostly run on a 16” bar. The shorter bar maximises the speed and creates the best balance.
Also in europe its 280$ more expensive. Kinda depressing, this saw is indane
I just picked up a nice used Ms Sthil 261c , so far it cuts good .
That's awesome! I bet you saved a lot, finding one used.
@@OldSchoolMillennial yea it was used twice and that was it and I spent $550 for it .
This saw is on my wish list. I love my 025 but its starting to lose its pep. But i cant justify buying a 261 yet because im just cutting for the shop i work at and for my mom. But for sure going to get a pro saw for my next saw because you can rebuild them easily and get alot more life out of them. Thanks for the honest review
I hear you. All good things in their time. Delayed gratification is a good practice. If you're like me, you'll research the heck out of whatever it is so that, when the right time comes, you make the right purchase.
I seen when to recalabrate the saw it needs to be started with the switch all the way down in the choke postion i always start my stihl equiment with the choke on until it pops then move the switch up are eles it floods what am i not understanding
Hi from UK. Just managed to pick up a 261c 2015. Not sure if it's been serviced at all what would suggest?
It wouldn't hurt to run it by a dealer, if you have one nearby. They could look it over for you. I also have a video on how I maintain mine. If you think it could be helpful, here's the link. ruclips.net/video/36gnwPwMZFk/видео.html
Perfect! Wish there was more guys this side as helpful as you have been
You were talking about the balance… Out of curiosity, do you use the Stihl "light bar" or their standard bar? I wonder which is better for balance
Great video. The 261c is a great saw. You should also make a long term review of the 550xp mark 2 as well.
Indeed.
You got it! Stay tuned!
550xp 50.1 CC=girls only
I have the 20" bar & one definitely feels the balance issue described. Think I'll pick up an 18" bar and give that a go for awhile. Great video, keep em coming...
Thanks, Todd!
Go with a stihl light bar
I have the 18 in bar on mine and it’s perfect balance for what I do.
So if you could only have one, would you go with the 261 or the 550xp Mark II? I’m partial to Husky myself and have a 372xp that I love. I just wonder how the 550xp Mark II will hold up long term. I know they had some issues with the first generation 550xps, so hopefully they got the kinks worked out!
550 mk2 is a beast
Have a 550xp bought new in 2015 and I must say it is the toughest saw I have ever owned. The saw has ripped lots of big rounds ..44" and larger....has cut too many cords of oak and hickory to even count and has never gave a minutes trouble. One of the best and most reliable saws ever made in my experience.
is there a newer or upgraded version yet?
I have stihl ms 261 non-mtronic
WhenI try to put on the chain and the side cover, It is a bit difficult for me to turn the nuts. Does it mean that the threads in the nuts of the side cover are worn out or the threads on the bar stud is worn out?
What can I do if either of those is worn out.
Can I use it in this way because I can turn it with a spanner but can’t turn it by hand?
I was really close to buying the stihl ms261 non mtrononic. Ended up buying the echo cs620p for a little more cc. I think I would have been very happy with the 261 too though.
Hey, man, I'm giving away an MS 261 on the channel right now to celebrate 10,000 subscribers. Just wanted to let you know in case you are still wishing for one! Check it out here: ruclips.net/video/ZBVu7w2BElM/видео.html
Mine came with the 20 in bar...I appreciate the extra reach when limbing...and it has no.problem pulling it.
Very happy with purchase so far.
5:05 well like if you put a bigger bare on it, its gonna wanna lean ahead more because of the beefier bar
Husqvarna has faster revving saws, but less torque than Stihl saws. Stihl revs up a fraction of a second slower, but it has more torque and is miles better in the cut because of that. The clutch on Stihl saws is also more forgiving in design. All this means that Stihl wont stall as easily in the cut - even if you lean on it a bit and the revs drop. Husqvarna has to be revved up all the time to make the cut. So overall Stihl is the more relaxing saw for me to use and that matters a lot especially once i get tired from hours of cutting. To each his own though.
This saw is awesome. It revs higher then other saws, power to weight is great. Sthil dealers do not have all the parts you need, order and supply chain is slow. I bought this pro saw because I'm waiting on parts on 2 other saws. As I really use my saws.
Yeah to each their own. I baught the 261 and the husky 550 and the husky is miles ahead! It’s not even close!
This claim zero scientific evidence to support it
@@sprint2648 I have both and the Husky always has issues with the auto tune.
I'm a homeowner that will occasionally need to cut down trees on my property. I've looked at stihl, echo, and huskavarna saws. Looking at the price points, I was thinking of just spending the extra money and not every having to buy another saw. Besides the price point of $700, is there really any reason NOT to buy the 261 C-M? It seems like it also has the best fuel system in it and I won't have to mess around with idle and mixture settings. If you don't think this one is right for a homeowner that will occasionally have small jobs on the property, and you have a good reason not to recommend this, is there another recommendation you'd have for me? Currently I'm looking at getting the stihl 261C-M in 20" because it seems like it can be used for any size tree that I'd have to worry about on my property.
I was in the same position 3yrs ago. I do NOT regret my purchase or the extra cash spent. FYI I haven't done any mods except run the 16in bar as it feels best stock that way.
I say go for it. It might be overkill, but it should be able to handle whatever you need it to. It's a great saw. This video might be helpful. ruclips.net/video/4ysGRSirmjI/видео.htmlsi=CO_3wZb7eHNKeLl8
Thanks for sharing your experience.
@@OldSchoolMillennial I spent the extra money and got the 261cm. To me it was worth the extra money to have a fuel system that adjusts itself and doesn't have screws that can vibrate loose and change adjustment. Also I like the fact that the system auto adjusts to the air filter getting dirty and altitude changes automatically. I went to a friend's house with it and we cut 6 trees down in his property that were dead for a while. I think it's a great saw and he showed me how to use it safely. I couldn't be happier with the purchase.
Only stihl ms 261 non-mtronoc is supported in my country. Is it possible to order the parts for stihl ms 261 cm if I take it to Bulgaria and it breaks down?
Can I tune it myself, like I can with my reliable old 260ms?
I have a Stihl dealer 15 minutes from me as well. I was looking at this saw and the MS362. Leaning toward the MS261 as my next saw.
The 261 will do most things that you will encounter. As long as your trees aren't much bigger than 20" you should be good with the 261. Also, I like to pair my 50cc saws with a 70cc saw for the bigger stuff. Good luck, man!
@@OldSchoolMillennial Primary use is cutting firewood and general cleanup around the property. Between my Dad and I we burn 10 cords a year for heat. If the tree trunk is bigger than 18" I generally don't want to mess with it as the rounds are a bear to move around for splitting. I'm used to a Husqvarna 455 with an 18" bar. Decent saw, but on the heavy side for the power and definitely bogs down quite a bit going through 16-18" hardwood. The 455 comes stock with 3/8 pitch, I think it might do better with 0.325, or a 16" bar. We seem to be pretty like-minded and I enjoy your channel. Keep it up!
Thankyou, my first chain saw lots like it's going to be a MS261 18" bar and green chain, 😊
Good choice! Let me know how you like it.
Just wanted to let you know that I'm giving a MS 261 away on the channel right now, in case you are still in the market. You can enter here: ruclips.net/video/ZBVu7w2BElM/видео.html
Yep yellow chain is great, as long as your cutting clean timber.
It's Dr.Strange in another universe! thanks for the video!!!!
Great honest review. Since you have this one and the husky version, does the slightly heavier weight of the husky wear you out quicker, or is this more about balance?
Thanks man! I honestly don't feel the difference. It's about a half pound. The balance really makes up for the weight difference. Both saws are light weight and easy to run all day without getting tired.
@@OldSchoolMillennial if I was going to get my husband and 18” chainsaw, which one would be your top pick. I’m not brand loyal.
@@ililiserver I would say if you have both dealers readily available I personally prefer the Husqvarna 550 Mark 2. But if you only have a stihl dealer nearby you can't go wrong with the stihl 261c. Hope that helps. That's a great present btw!
In Norway they recommend 13 to 18 inch bar on the 261 I use a 16 inch the 18 inch takes to much of the power and it ruins the balance I also have a 362 witch I use with a 18 inch bar and hexa chain I'm planning to get a 462 with a 25 inch bar
A RUclipsr that wears chainsaw PPE! Thanks for being a good example of what you SHOULD be wearing!
Haha, thanks Jacob! I try my best, I've got my wife and several little ones counting on me to to stay safe.
I understand completely. I too have a reason to come home safe at the end of the day. I didn't for a long time. It's amazing how ones attitude can change for the better.
I think the M-Tronics V3 fixed those issues.
Both 261 (Old and New) are sweet. But. If money is no concerned, the 400CM is much better. Around the same weight & FAR more powerful and snappy. The longevity of a 261 is something established. Like other said, I feel the 20 in bar is a better fit.
Will this rev faster than my current 311 with a 20 in bar
How long have you had it
It's been over a year now.
Thanks for your candor. Excellent video.
Thanks, Nick! I appreciate it.
Great review, so the question is...if you could have one 50cc saw, what would it be?
Thanks, man! Watch this video for the answer to your question. ruclips.net/video/4R-DNKZOhPs/видео.html
If you're a homeowner/diy guy save yourself some money and buy an ms250. I've cut lots of oak with mine up to 22" in diameter and it does great. A pro saw will do it faster,but at twice the price. I cut around 5 cord of firewood a year with an ms250, ms310, and ms441c. The majority is cut with the ms250 because it's so light and nimble with an 18" bar.
Just ordered one. Thanks
Here in NewZealand There is a price difference of $324.00 dollars between MS261 and 550 XP the Husky been more expensive.
Wow! That's a big difference, they are almost the same price hear in the states.
Where is it made?
Hey! good review!
recently bought myself the same saw.
really liked how it works.
can you tell what kind of oil you mix with gasoline to prepare the fuel mixture?
thanks!
Thanks! I typically use stihl 2 cycle that comes in the silver bottles or the stihl premix that they sell. The premix is a little more expensive than mixing my own but it is non ethanol and saves me a lot of trouble that ethanol can cause in carburetors that sit for a period of time.
@@OldSchoolMillennial thanks! i use stihl hp ultra oil
I have the MS 261 C-M and I cannot get it to run and stay running for more than 2 tanks of gas a time. Whenever I come back to it the next day it starts up fine and runs well until I've gone through a tank or two of gas. What am I doing wrong?
Have you tried running the calibration procedure on it?
@@rcw3586 Yes, I wound up taking it to a dealership. There was a large hole on an internal component that apparently only occurs if one runs the chainsaw without a chain for an extended period of time. I hadn't done that, so I believe it was a manufacturing defect. They dealership has had it for a month or two now waiting for the replacement part(s). Given how hot it has been, I'm not exactly upset. I am curious what it'll cost me though.
How is the Stihl ms 170 c-m 30cc is that a good one for long-term use or should I just get the 50cc for long-term use
It really depends on the size of wood and how often you will be cutting. If you only cut a handful of times per year, the 170 will likely work fine as long as the wood isn't over 18". Bigger than that, you may want to look at the MS 250 or 271 farm boss if you don't want to go with the 261. Hope that helps.
I have a 170 and it is fine for limbing, you can put a metal dog and side tensioner for $25. The oiler ports on the bar can clog so carefully clean those often.
I have a ms 362 , but I’m thinking of another power saw . Maybe a ms 261 but I’m not sure yet , cause of the balance ! So maybe the ms 462 .
Depends on your needs. If you want to have a little bit lighter saw you could run a light bar on your 362. If you need to cut some bigger trees the 462 would come in handy.
Great video!! Nice review on saw. Have a Safe Day
Thanks, David!
If you could only have two saws what would it be. I’m in the market for professional saw. I like to have one for limbing and one for felling. Just wanted to know your thoughts.
If I could only have two saws I would likely go with a 50cc saw and a 70cc-95cc saw. This would cover most cutting situations. On the stihl side that would be an MS261 C and either a 462/500i/661. On the Husky side it would be a 550xp Mark II and either a 372/572/390/592. I know that's more options for the big saws but it really depends on the biggest trees you encounter. Hope that helps.
I've had a mark 1 550 xps and wouldnt buy another.ive had it ten years and rebuilt it once and now it needs it again. My stihl saws are roughly the same age and are still running strong. For smaller stuff( up to 20") I run an ms250, and a ms310,but keep an ms441c with a 28" bar for bigger stuff.
I'm giving away a MS 261 on the channel right now. If you want to enter, you can see the details here: ruclips.net/video/ZBVu7w2BElM/видео.html
I've quite a few saws but the 2 go to ones are the 261 mtronic and the 461
micha ik zou deze kopen !!
Good honest review!
Thanks, Kyle! I appreciate that.
Been torn between this saw and the husky 550xp mark 2
I would change the filler caps but wouldn't buy another one if mine broke. I would go bigger and Husqvarna.
I like the filler caps on my Huskys better. Can't go wrong with a big Husky saw.
You said long term but didnt say how long?
At the time I made this video I had used the saw for over a year. Now I've had it close to 2 years.
Good review Glenn looks like that saw will be taking care of you for years to come. Take care, Ben. #ogaoutdoors
Thanks, Ben! Most definitely! It's a good saw.
Stihl’s M-Tronic electronic carburetor is complete trash. MS-362CM specifically. I can’t recount the number of times they have failed to idle in the middle of a back cut whether on the ground or aloft. Having to pull start them while simultaneously holding the throttle fully open is not only dangerous but it’s exhausting. Ditch M-Tronic imho
Ah glad I picked up a 261 non-cm. If you gotta do the full throttle with a bunch of pulls, it prob means it's flooding. Stuck/faulty solenoid could cause this.
BTW, use the chain brake when starting it throttled. It's safer.
@@DH-zv8ou 261 is one of my favorite saws. Runs like a scalded dog. 2-4-6 lineup with Stihls is a good lineup. 261, 462, 661. Application is the mother of necessity in timber.
Never had a problem with my 261 had it 3 years not an issue
run a light bar, take that double dog off and itll be close bud
1 traktor. druh. kam sjell malit. ju qeshni
Stihl is pronounced like the metal, steel. Just fyi
Muffler moddd
It is bulky for its weight and cc.
Only thing i hate about mine is a terrible gas cap no way to not get dirt or snow in it