Want more honey and brood? Double Screened Covers are the answer
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Less stress equals happier bees, happier bees work harder and a happier queen produces more brood. Summer heat stress and high humidity in the hive can keep your bees stressed. Use double-screened inner covers to kill two birds with one stone.
Coupon Code: YTdouble
For winter time use as an insulator place a medium honey super above the screen, and fill it with wood shavings to reduce condensation and heat loss in the winter.
Product Link: www.funnybugbe...
Materials:
2x 19 7/8 x 1 1/8" x 2 1/4" (both 8/10 fr)
2x 11 1/4" x 1 1/8" x 2 1/4" (8 frame version)
(2x 13 3/4" x 1 1/8" x 2 1/4" 10frame version)
8x 2" wood screws
#8 hardware cloth
titebond III wood glue
I use double screened inner covers all the time. they work great and when winter comes i will just add carboard on top the of the cover and leave the entrance open to keep the air moving. Be sure that your lid does not cover the screen other wise it is useless then. I use 3/4 inch strinp of wood on the sides to create the gap.
I actually put a medium honey super on top of them in the winter, and fill the super with wood shavings from the shop. Soaks up all the moisture in the winter and keeps the bees dry and insulated.
Good idea. You could also use insulation board. Either 1 or 2 inch, whichever allows for the opening. Although, I’ll say that it seems like a pretty big opening for winter ventilation. You don’t need much
I mean no offence, but this would more appropriately be named a how to video. The information on ventilation is great, along with the why. Again not trying to be critical, overall it was good. The why kind of got lost in the how to build. The market is there for a product like this. You lost those buyers in the beginning with the use off power tools. Your an honest hard worker start out with that. Example: For those of you who do not have the tools or interest in fabricating this in a home shop "you" have them available for purchase. That 10 second pitch will not offend or deter any of us with the wherewithal to copy the design. This has the potential to be a great product. The majority of folks who purchase from us do not have or want to get this involved. They want 1-800 when will it be delivered. All the best to you and yours. Your time and effort deserves success.
Well, it is a Howto video. Just thought the title was more descriptive. I'll take your advice though and on future videos get the sales info out of the way up front. My intention with all my videos though is to give those with the skill and tools an easy to follow format for making their own supplies. Secondary to teaching people how to build these items is the desire to sell them. I am glad you think the information is good though, after all, I'm trying to be a resource for beekeepers as much as I am trying to sell products. Hopefully, I am finding a balance.
Funny Bug Bees and Wood Works Yes I do agree I am living 15k kms away from you and definitely yr videos are very helpful. Because I can't buy online which is not cost effective. Thanking you sir for yr pain in demonstration of this video.
Thanks Arctic! you stay warm up there you hear!
I like that "saw guide" adapter for your miter gauge assembly. Could you tell me anything about that? I could use something like that!
are you talking about the Kreg Precision miter guage? this is what i use: www.kregtool.com/store/c47/saw-accessories/p84/precision-miter-gauge-system/
Yes that's it! Thanks for the link!
Hey what about adding a few temperature controlled computer fans between the 2 meshes?
man, im an old computer geek from way back in the early 90's..build my own systems to this day...You have just taken beekeeping to nerd level 4,000,000 and i love the idea!
JUST SUBSCRIBED WELL DONE KEEP IT UP
Thank you gary!
They are also great to use to stop a robbing attack. By flipping it over (so the entrance is up) the robber bees ( smelling the Honey) will go into the top and yet not contact the honey frames. They will overheat and stop when they are not rewarded. Or at dusk you can remove the screen and set it away from your hive to let the bees go. However I now screw one side of the screen so I can remove it to shake out dead robbers after about 100 Hornets died trying to get it.
I would like to see a photo of how you get bees or wasps in between the screens? On the ones i build using this video, nothing can get between the screens, im curious as to how they are getting in to your.
A swarm will be less inclined to move into a draughty space just sayin.That said they don't like being overheated. A natural hive IE a hollow tree cavity is shaded and insulated by a fairly thick tree trunk. Australian Langstroth hives withstand temperatures in excess of 45 degs C or 113 F by having 4 vents in the migratory roof (google them) . If you want more honey take the queen out at the beginning of the main nectar flow. Nurse bees will not have brood to look after so will gather nectar and they will raise a new queen.
Im not sure i ever said use these on swarm traps. They are for working hives. They are also for use with telescoping covers, not migratory lids so im unsure about the google reference. Taking the queen out when you are trying to build numbers to have more foragers is honestly bad advice in my opinion. Since this video had nothing to do with making splits, or using migratory covers...Im totally confused by your comments.
if you are using a hive top feeder you just put a empty super on top before your lid and you wont have issues.
I think you meant to say "except for the issues of ventilation and robbing" because a super does nothing to resolve either of these issues, whereas a double-screened inner cover does. Before I began manufacturing equipment, I purchased many telescoping tops. None of them formed an air tight seal around whatever box they were placed on, they always allow bees to find a way in from the outside, promoting robbing. Even if you use a single screened inner cover, with an entrance cutout, which they all have, robbers get in. The only way to tackle ALL of the problems listed is with a double-screened inner cover.
They don't get into the top of my feeder. you put your inner cover on an empty super over the hive top feeder, and then when you put the lid on top you slide it so that there is no gap over the inner covers gap. Now you can get really fancy and take that super and drill a couple holes over it and staple some screen over the holes for ventilation (but i havent needed to). If you have any cracks under the edge of the feeder you can try a heavier lid or some vaseline. You can always use a sceen bottom for ventilation if its really that hot.
This always works, even if you drill the candy holes for winter feeding.
I appreciate and respect your opinion, I just happen to not agree with it. Again this method does not provide ventilation out the top of your hive like double-screened inner covers do. Heat tends to travel up in this universe (there may be other laws of physics in other universes) So using the screened bottom board as a method to cool your hive is not effective. This is why you see heavy bearding on hives without them (double-screened inner covers) and no bearding on hives with them. Also to note is that most people need their supers for...well...supering.....A simple inexpensive double-screened inner cover solves all issues.
My mentor just uses a 2" square on top of the inner cover with screened vent holes and then the lid.
We Feed directly into the inner cover.
With Ziploc bags with a slit
Nice project. I’m making a couple for my hives.
awesome!
I like your tool
I'd like to understand the difference between the DOUBLE and single screened inner covers.. I have single and DOUBLE screened bottom boards, and the only difference I find is that trash gets caught between the screens, so please enlighten me on the advantages/disadvantages.. You said need shims for better air flow under telescoping covers when hot, so I guess that would be on days when temps are above 80º, right? Maybe I should ask what temps are screened inner covers best used with screened bottom boards?? temps are a bit cooler in the northern areas... Thanks
Bees are able to generate 107f in dead of winter while clustered. You will not freeze bees by giving them too much ventilation. You can however kill them easily giving them too little ventilation. This is due to condensation forming inside the hive, dripping onto the bees and causing them to freeze. So it is always better to err on the side of too much. The benefit of a double screened cover vs. a single screened cover is that a double screened cover does several jobs. 1) provides a method to use a screened cover AND at the same time have a rear entrance. 2) doubles as a "quilt box", so no need to buy one of those, you can simply use a medium super and a double-screened inner cover then fill it with wood shavings for the winter. 3) Doubles as a hive separator for two queen splits (by turning the rear entrance to the back of the bottom hive, and up towards the top hive, this becomes their "bottom entrance", but still keep the hives separated). 4) It acts as a barrier to both wax moths and small hive beetles when used on the rear entrance facing up position, I could go on, but this tool replaces several other pieces of equipment that a single screen design just cant do. So i use them, because I also on occasion need them for another purpose, saves me buying individual pieces of equipment, I just have to keep a few of this one piece on hand.
Great video--what router table is that?Its enough to make me wanna drag my router out of the shed
Hey Greg thanks, its the Rockler table with the mechanical router lift. heres a link, you can also get it for $100 less without the FX Router Lift. www.rockler.com/rockler-high-pressure-laminate-router-table-fence-stand-and-fx-router-lift
I like the Screened Inner Cover, but Hive Top Feeders are GARBAGE straight up.
You purchased hive top feeders from us and thought they were garbage? If so which feeder was it the "Fat Bee Man" feeder, the "Ultimate Hive top feeder"? If you were unhappy with the product we would like you to let us know, we would of made it right for you no questions asked. Please give me a bit more info on what the problem was?
I made several of these and they have been great to have this summer. The one issue, is they built a decent amount of propolis on the screen. Does this happen to you? How do you clean it off since it is trapped between the screens? Is there something I did wrong that this happened? Again, thanks for sharing these how to instructions.
any open space is going to be closed by bees. I just remove staples and replace the screen every few seasons.
Must be removed before cold weather? I can see this in hotter climates where high temperature is an issue. I also wonder how this affects fungus. Some is good, some bad. The bees must regulate humidity.
in the winter time i leave it on (without the shims of course), and add a shallow super on top of it and fill it with saw dust. This soaks up all moisture which might cause mildew in the winter, as well as acting as a heat insulator to hold warm air in. . Then when spring comes i just take the shallow super off and take of the cover and dump the saw dust off of it and put it right back on again.
you can do the same thing with single screen and not waste extra material; just cut the material deeper and use the cutouts to sandwich the screen all around. best regards.
the reason for this design is that it is the thickness of the wood that allows you to have a "closable" rear entrance simply by flipping it upside down....you can do that with the single screen design.
Or use vented migratory tops like I do. Still, this is better than nothing.
I think the point to the video is to help people who already are using telescoping covers kill several birds with one stone. The use of ventilated migratory covers does not solve the issues of using hive top feeders either. You still need a screened inner cover to use both and to prevent robbing at the same time. I have several local customers who use migratory covers and still use double-screened inner covers with them for ventilation and to provide a robber-free method to use a hive top feeder with them.
Thank you for all the great videos you do, very instructive.
Just let me note something if you don’t mind, that is if you’re doing your videos for international RUclips users or watchers, Of all the countries in the world, only three still use the archaic Imperial system of weights and measures: - USA - Liberia - Myanmar. It would be very helpful if you add Metric dimensions in the video or in the description, unless you’re doing it national wise.
Thank you again and keep up the great work.
I make my videos for an American audience, and while i do have viewers overseas, I cant target an American audience with the metric system. I can offer you some advice though, Google will readily provide you with bunches of links that allow you to convert SAE to metric. Then just sit down, convert my measurements, and you are in business!
The guy is showing you how to build them, which its easy if you have the tools and the desire. All u need table saw and materials. Also i checked his website very reasonable prices to buy them.
Appreciate the comments Fredinand!
A couple of my hives have a solid bottom. I notice bigger bearding issues on these hives. Would this provide enough ventilation on top of any of our hives, or would you also need a vented super in combination with this? Also, I just wanted to clarify that you said this still works well on top of a hive top feeder for ventilation and moisture escaping?
yes its enough ventilation without a ventilated super. we sell them and they come with shims which hold your outer cover an inch above the double screened cover. plenty of ventilation. Also, yes they work on a hive top feeder to keep all the other bees and insects out, so long as your hive top feeder has vent holes in its boom, other wise no air gets through it to the screened cover.
@@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks Thank you for your reply. I realized I was missing the part about adding a shim until I watched your other video with these in practice. I was wondering how air would get in/through if the lid was just sitting on top of it.
Really need that in LA lower Alabama.
Were in North Carolina ourselves, hotter than seven hells here in the summer with 100% humidity, we need them as well!
Good video - thank you for posting it. Do you have any issues with them covering the screen with propolis?
yes eventually but the screen is easily replaced every couple seasons.
You forgot your glue.
i usually forget glue in the videos, but i always mention it. Keeps the videos shorter.
Can you paint the frame prior to put the screen on? Do you sell these?
yes we sell bees, and beekeeping equipment. our website is www.funnybugbees.com. Regarding paint, its typical to not paint the surfaces bees come into contact with, though i guess it would hurt to much.
My question is where do you get #8 wire cloth? I can't find it anywhere.
Thank you, made my order.
www.funnybugbees.com/the-bee-shop/beekeeping-supplies/hardware
James in revisiting this comment, I see where you ordered #6 hardware cloth from us and not #8. Was this intentional? We would hate for you to be using #6 in an application where #8 was needed. Was #6 what you intended to order as your original comment was asking where to get #8 cloth.
will smaller ants pass through that screen ? thx for sharing
the hardware cloth we use for this product is a #8 cloth with a 0.100" (2.54mm) aperture size (size of the opening) So its to small for hive beetles to get through, but maybe some tiny ants could get through. That said ants can walk right through the front door of a hive. If ants are a problem at your hives, you should be considering stopping them from ever reaching the hive, by using one of the hive stand leg modifications with can and oil, or other popular methods.
What am I missing? Looks to me like there is no need for screen on both sides.
there are several reasons. 1) it is reversible so you can use a screened inner cover with an upper entrance if needed which is something not possible with single screened covers, or turn it over to close the entrance to provide ventilation but still keep out pests and robbers. 2) it allows you to use an empty honey super on top of it filled with wood shavings as a quilt box. 3) It can be used above a miller style, or fat bee man style feeder and lock out robbers from getting into the top of your feeder. I could go on but it has more versatility than a single screened cover and therefore is a better choice than a single screened cover.
@@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks With all due respect, I'm still missing a piece of the puzzle. Your design for example will do #1 without the need for 2 pieces of screen, and while I have no experience with #2 and #3, looks like it would take care of them as well. Albeit there would be excess space for burr comb when the screen is on top. Thanks.
Excellent video! Thank you.
Thanks Kent, glad to help!
You are welcome!
Great video tutorial. Thank you very kindly.
Glad it was helpful!
Love your router table set up! Where did you get the miter push bar assembly from?
do you mean the miter gauge for the table saw?
@@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks No, the one you used on the router table. Thanks for the reply!
This video is useless because you do not show how it is used in actuality.
useless by definition means it has no use. I think what you really meant was that this video was super useful to learn to build the component, and that the companion video to it, which you didnt take the time to watch, shows it being used on an actual hive. That video is titled : Companion Video to the "Howto build a double screened inner cover" - Feel free to watch it as well.
You forgot the glue
:P you are correct sir. I tend to leave out steps when making the videos, helps keep them shorter. As long as i say to glue it, I dont really need to show it too lol. Not that it needs glue, it doesnt. Some prefer it, some dont, you know those organic beekeepers can be pretty strict!
i always ask questions of peoples claims, what proof do you have on the claims of more brood and honey? did you test with 2 or more hives one year and then swap the next?
personal experience and the experience of my mentors, "old timers" and many beeks i talk to daily....Thats all i need. If you want peer reviewed journals with my advice in them, you will have to wait. :(
I was wondering the brand of your router table
this is the exact one I have including the router lift and fence. www.rockler.com/rockler-high-pressure-laminate-router-table-fence-stand-and-fx-router-lift
You think unglued dowels on shims would work.
Yes, and thats a great idea!
What kind of screen you are using
#8 (with smaller than 0.125mm aperture) or window screen, either works, though i like #8 better since it takes WAY longer for the little buggers to propalize the screen. Though this isnt an issue, i just use a heat gun to clean them and re-open the apertures in the hardware cloth. Though to be honest I dont usually do this either, the things are to easy to make
What type of feeder are you using?
this one: www.funnybugbees.com/the-bee-shop/beekeeping-supplies/bee-feeders/don-the-fat-bee-man-no-drown-hive-top-feeder
Did I miss the glue step?
To be honest i usually leave out glue steps in most of my videos, its common sense and shortens the video. Ill try to at least say something about glue, even if i dont put it on in the videos.
cool cover an a cool idea,
thanks Mark!
good job thanks for this'
Thanks Francis!
Just purchased 4
well what do you think?
Funny Bug Bees and Wood Works I really like them. I have them on 4 of my 6 hives and considering it’s 95 degrees here in Texas the ones that have them are thriving. I went to order 4 more last night and was sad to see the discount code had ended. Looking to buy a feeder and nuc box from ya soon.
Heh... You said "Grid-Square."
That's alot more than what you trimmed.
I live in central Oklahoma, I run closed bottom boards, inner cover with top entrances and use plastic enclosed top feeders so no robbers can get in the top plus I use 1¨ styrofoam insulation under the lid all year round and I don´t have a problem with bearding. This appears to me that this is another marketing gimmick as you are the one making and selling this item. I have done many a cutout of buildings and trees. There is not this ventilation you speak of in nature. Maybe more shade in some cases but not the ventilation.
Point 1 - your assertion that there is no ventilation in a hive. Can you please explain to our subscribers then how there is always an inner influx of air on one side of the entrance and an outflow of air on the other side of the entrance? I can tell you why, because bees cause a ventilation circuit to cool the hive. It's well documented.
Point 2 - marketing gimmick? the following companies sell double-screen inner hive covers:
www.mcssl.com/store/honeypagebeesupplies/double-screened-inner-covers
americanbeesupplyllc.com/product/double-screened-inner-cover/
www.dadant.com/catalog/b15501-ventilated-inner-cover-10-fr?gclid=Cj0KCQiA0b_QBRCeARIsAFntQ9oPz3hzIaWS-V3vE20ZnO4sfzptWTQCtxx5IoPKx_5r6buaQ9KJhR4aAscPEALw_wcB
www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/10-Frame-Ventilated-Inner-Cover-Moving-Screen
Among others.........
I use every product I sell, if they didnt work i wouldnt use them. What you do in your bee yard is fine, i wont knock you for it. However, try not to be a hater and knock me for what i do in mine.
👍
Thanks!
@@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks
👍
Great video. I'm trying to figure out why two pieces of hardware cloth are needed. Basically, the two pieces allows one to flip if over so that you have two inner covers. It seems like with a bit more designing it would be possible to create a cover with one piece of screen that could be flip so that it serves two purposes. I'm new to beekeeping. Perhaps it's essential to keep the space between the inner cover and the top of the frames at a minimum to prevent bees from building comb into the space? In any case thanks for the video, and I'm certain thermal regulation of the hive takes a great deal of energy.
two pieces of cloth allow it to be flipped over to provide a rear entrance or flipped the other way to not provide a rear entrance, such as when used over a hive top feeder.
guess you like to listen to them barking dogs ,I don't
not particularly, but the neighbors dogs bark sometimes.
why you got robbing! is > enteral feeding nectar or sugar water I only feed powder sugar and pollen and flour in winter That the only time i enter feed. I have feeding station 25 foot from my hives. what where i want robbing if any! NOT IN MY HIVES I have a quick fix for vention in the summer, put some 3/8" wood stub under the inner cover on the back side only! Your top should kept every thing out from the sides and the bees can guard it well or You can place nickles, quarters, half dollars what ever in between you boxes for more air flow too ! What i got to do very SOON ! There board washing now! THAT MEAN THERE MAKING HONEY! they do this back and forth motion to throw up honey and propolis! It gives them motion sickness! YES HONEY AND PROPOLIS IS BEE VOMIT! GOOD STUFF RITE! How they make it
why would you ever feed flour to bees? They do not digest it well, and you cause them dysentery. Even dry feeds contain no more than 10% flour, the majority of the volume of commercially acceptable dry feeds is brewers yeast. However that said, there is no good substitute for real pollen as a protein source. Even if you do feed them flour, you should use soy flour and not wheat flour as the protein content is much higher in soy flour.
Its a pollen substitute and it works Very well and even corn meal flour. Yes you can feed em wheat flour and soy as well. Feed em yeast you will blow them up and shit them selves to death > ALL THAT YELLOW BEE SHIT AROUND YOUR HIVES IS NOT A GOOD THING
Can brude box be placed on top of the screen with the screen on the bottom of the hive.Greg
it could by placing the entrance hole upwards it would act as a screened botom board with an entrance. but since heat rises, so i think above the hive as the inner cover with the two shims holding it up a bit is best.
Just what i was looking for .Very good. thanks.
You are welcome sir.
Why double screen ?... isn't one screen enough ?... Thanks for your reply.
The double screen design allows you to build in a bee escape notch so they have a rear opening, OR flip the cover over which closes that opening effectively. So it prevents anything from going in or out it one way (including robbers/moths/etc.), and flipped gives the bees an upper exit.
I was hoping to see things done differently to increase honey production.
I did not think about watching nor did I want a instructional video nor do I want to know, how to make a double screen.
Misleading title.
Thumbs down for lying on that title to get more clicks. That is what you call click baiting.
"want more honey and brood, use a double screened inner cover". thermal regulation reduces stress on bees allowing them to use less resources on cooling and more resources on harvesting nectar and raising brood. None of the title is a lie. I even teach you how to make them. For those that don't have tools or don't want to mess with it, I provide a link to buy them. It's called capitalism and how i feed my family.....Are you a troll or a socialist? Prefer I get my money from a check from uncle sam courtesy of your taxes? If you don't like the videos, unsubscribe. I may not like what you have to say, nor you what I have to say, but I will uphold to the death your right to say it and won't bash you for it.
I wish you could demonstrate their use on the hive.
I made a video for you, its on my channel, or you can click this link: ruclips.net/video/8U2YgVAFRlM/видео.html