7:03 I too have beat bearings with sockets, brooksticks, blocks, etc etc, finally I broke down and coughed up $76.99 for a bearing seal driver set at amazon, can't tell you how much i wished i'd had it sooner! you can stack the drivers also to setup 2 (one inside and one to drive the outer race). AWESOME.
Here's a couple more tips for you. Put some antiseize or grease on the mount so the bearing won't seize on it and make for easy removal next time. You can save some money and extend the life of the bearings by taking them off every season, removing the circlip and seal, clean the bearing out with WD40 and repack them with fresh grease.
Thanks David! Great video. I really appreciate the extra time and effort you take to explain everything around the repair - in simple easy to understand words - the part, the how to, the W5 etc. It really helps folks like me. Thanks again - Cheers!
I've been horrible for maintaining my old sled. As a result, I have a sled that isn't running. Fortunately for me, there hasn't been enough snow to even bother with it. I have been accumulating all of the parts needed to freshen up the old SRX during the off season. A neighbor of mine, also a snowmobiler, said this; would you rather wrench when its 70 degrees or better or when its 32 degrees or less. Keep up with your informative videos...
If you have a drill press you can us that to push the bearing out and back on . Just saves hitting it with a hammer. Also when installing the circlip there is a sharp edge on it that should face up, towards you.( As per the ski doo service manual ) Mark
I’ve almost got my sled ready! It’s been flooding in one cylinder though and I’ve been trying to fix it since we just got a whole bunch of snow where I’m at. Darn XLT just doesn’t wanna run. It’s a sweet machine though. Also thank you for making videos. A lot of your past videos have really helped me fix it up. P.s: that MXZ is like mint condition and is awesome
Hi Pro. Thanks for watching and commenting. Have you made sure you have spark in all cylinders? Have you checked compression? Carb clean, float sticking? Good luck! You’ll figure it out!
My Old Sled I’m thinking it’s the spark/compression possibly since I just cleaned the carbs and checked the needles+seats but it’s a finicky triple and that’s for sure. Thanks for the reply.
Mike Potvin I just cleaned em out yesterday with an air compressor, some carb cleaner and a whole lotta elbow grease but I’m sure it’s just fouled the plug since it doesn’t idle either
I would drill small diameter holes in my hyfax slides. The holes are drilled at an angle in 3s. The holes at a diagonal to the skid, they were set apart every 6 inches or so. Id fill those holes with grease, then eventually the grease became replaced with snow.
Just wanted to say if you don't want to pull the entire skid, you can still replace all the bearings without pulling it if you don't have the space for completely pulling the skid. It's easy and most of the time faster than pulling the entire skid
I have the plastic idler wheels on my sled and just noticed I have a few of the yellow covers that are cracked. Is this something that should be replaced?
One thing i do before installing bearing is to very carefully remove the dust shield and add more grease to the new bearing the factory puts very little in there to start.
Whats your thought on cable ice scrapers? I bought a set of trail blizzers for my 06 mxz sdi but not exactly happy removing a set of idler wheels to install the scrappers far enough in the front.
I think scratchers are more important with the crappy winters we’ve been having, depending on where you ride. That said, i wouldn’t lose a set of idler wheels for the .
I never payed attention to mine until recently. I had to change my track earlier this year, that is when I noticed I needed new bearings. one thing to add when putting them back together is add some locktite. I lost one of my rears out on the trail.
According to American council of snowmobile Associations , The average snowmobiler rides their snowmobile 1,200 miles per year. Obviously it varies a lot, depends on the weather and location.
hey David i have kind of a weird question. i bought a sleeve of bearings to do my whole skid, and when i popped one of the seals off to look at it there was hardly any grease inside the bearing. my question is do you feel like its okay to pack some extra low temp grease into your bearings?
Theyre not really designed to be greased. I know a lot of guys do, and it probably wont hurt, but you can introduce dirts, moisture etc, and damage the seals. Id just run them until replacement,
I have a 2003 polaris inday edge xc 500cc and tachometer won't give a correct reding ive already replayed cdi box the tachometer tested good. Any ideas?
Is it the correct tachometer for the sled? If it's not original to the sled, then you have to match the pulse from the tach to the stator, just something I read when trying to figure my own out. I don't know much about them.
Hi Tim. I used Permatex anti-seize on one on my older sled, but after doing a more reading, it really isn't recommended. They are a tight fit because being a bearing, they are supposed to be. It's really not that hard to get them off when you've done a few. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Sometimes when you press a bearing out it will flatten out the plastic where the retaining clip sits. If this happens you need a tool to flare the groove back out or the retaining clip won't for back in. Doesn't really apply to metal wheels
7:03 I too have beat bearings with sockets, brooksticks, blocks, etc etc, finally I broke down and coughed up $76.99 for a bearing seal driver set at amazon, can't tell you how much i wished i'd had it sooner! you can stack the drivers also to setup 2 (one inside and one to drive the outer race). AWESOME.
Here's a couple more tips for you. Put some antiseize or grease on the mount so the bearing won't seize on it and make for easy removal next time. You can save some money and extend the life of the bearings by taking them off every season, removing the circlip and seal, clean the bearing out with WD40 and repack them with fresh grease.
I did this alot, takes alot of time to repack... I love preventative maintenance routines on a sled it's alot of fun. 😁
Thanks David! Great video. I really appreciate the extra time and effort you take to explain everything around the repair - in simple easy to understand words - the part, the how to, the W5 etc. It really helps folks like me. Thanks again - Cheers!
Thanks Gord.
Must watch channel, especially for new sled owners.
Thanks! Glad you’re enjoying it.
Great reminder.....um...guilty.....going to check mine tomorrow... Thanks David! Much appreciated!
:)
Good video. Made longer rails for my forklift that allows me to raise the machine up and inspect and lube. A real back saver for me. Thx
Good idea. Thanks for watching and commenting
I've been horrible for maintaining my old sled. As a result, I have a sled that isn't running. Fortunately for me, there hasn't been enough snow to even bother with it.
I have been accumulating all of the parts needed to freshen up the old SRX during the off season.
A neighbor of mine, also a snowmobiler, said this; would you rather wrench when its 70 degrees or better or when its 32 degrees or less.
Keep up with your informative videos...
Hey Mark. Thanks for commenting. Its hard to think about sleds when boating season comes around. Im gonna try!
@@MyOldSled I'm lucky enough to have a sweet Streetbike and access to an amazing Side by Side. I am blessed to work in the Powersports Industry.
Great video great step by step. I'm pretty relaxed when it comes to idler wheels too
Hey thanks Eric. Glad you enjoyed it.
If you have a drill press you can us that to push the bearing out and back on . Just saves hitting it with a hammer. Also when installing the circlip there is a sharp edge on it that should face up, towards you.( As per the ski doo service manual ) Mark
Thanks again for another great video!
Thanks for doing these vidoes. I find them to be very helpful!
Thanks for watching them. Glad to help!
Great video. Love the channel. My parents have been in Lions Head for about 10 years now. Take care.
Hey Matt. thanks so much. Glad you enjoyed it.
This makes me want to check my bogeys now
Not a bad idea at the beginning of the season. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for all you help videos and tips it’s helped me out a lot with my Skidoo😎👍🏻❄️David Lawrence 👊🏻🇺🇸
Good to hear. Thanks for watching
I’ve almost got my sled ready! It’s been flooding in one cylinder though and I’ve been trying to fix it since we just got a whole bunch of snow where I’m at. Darn XLT just doesn’t wanna run. It’s a sweet machine though. Also thank you for making videos. A lot of your past videos have really helped me fix it up. P.s: that MXZ is like mint condition and is awesome
Hi Pro. Thanks for watching and commenting. Have you made sure you have spark in all cylinders? Have you checked compression? Carb clean, float sticking? Good luck! You’ll figure it out!
My Old Sled I’m thinking it’s the spark/compression possibly since I just cleaned the carbs and checked the needles+seats but it’s a finicky triple and that’s for sure. Thanks for the reply.
XLT is a triple, sounds like you have a carb that is dirty with a stuck float
Mike Potvin I just cleaned em out yesterday with an air compressor, some carb cleaner and a whole lotta elbow grease but I’m sure it’s just fouled the plug since it doesn’t idle either
Great video Dave as usual. Any chance you could do a video on removing, cleaning and reinstalling rave valves? Thanks for the excellent content.
Planning on it.
I would drill small diameter holes in my hyfax slides. The holes are drilled at an angle in 3s. The holes at a diagonal to the skid, they were set apart every 6 inches or so.
Id fill those holes with grease, then eventually the grease became replaced with snow.
Why?
Just wanted to say if you don't want to pull the entire skid, you can still replace all the bearings without pulling it if you don't have the space for completely pulling the skid. It's easy and most of the time faster than pulling the entire skid
Hi Mike. Yep, but it's still the best way to visualize the entire suspension, sliders, wheels, shocks, grease and clean everything.
excellent vid, very informative.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
I have the plastic idler wheels on my sled and just noticed I have a few of the yellow covers that are cracked. Is this something that should be replaced?
Not sure if you mean the wheel or hub/bearing cover, but I’d replace anything thats cracked. ruclips.net/video/B17wt8K_Q2M/видео.html
One thing i do before installing bearing is to very carefully remove the dust shield and add more grease to the new bearing the factory puts very little in there to start.
Hi Thomas. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Whats your thought on cable ice scrapers? I bought a set of trail blizzers for my 06 mxz sdi but not exactly happy removing a set of idler wheels to install the scrappers far enough in the front.
I think scratchers are more important with the crappy winters we’ve been having, depending on where you ride. That said, i wouldn’t lose a set of idler wheels for the .
Dave what about applying a thin layer of water proof grease on the hub to prevent the wheel from seizing. Brake grease would work just fine.
Ive heard that. Thanks for the suggestion.
I never payed attention to mine until recently. I had to change my track earlier this year, that is when I noticed I needed new bearings. one thing to add when putting them back together is add some locktite. I lost one of my rears out on the trail.
You could add some blue Loctite if you wanted. Shop manual doesn’t call for it. I’d make sure they’re torqued on properly.
Hi David, What is the average distance for an average ride / rider.
According to American council of snowmobile Associations , The average snowmobiler rides their snowmobile 1,200 miles per year. Obviously it varies a lot, depends on the weather and location.
hey David i have kind of a weird question. i bought a sleeve of bearings to do my whole skid, and when i popped one of the seals off to look at it there was hardly any grease inside the bearing. my question is do you feel like its okay to pack some extra low temp grease into your bearings?
Theyre not really designed to be greased. I know a lot of guys do, and it probably wont hurt, but you can introduce dirts, moisture etc, and damage the seals. Id just run them until replacement,
I have a 2003 polaris inday edge xc 500cc and tachometer won't give a correct reding ive already replayed cdi box the tachometer tested good. Any ideas?
Maybe stator? To be honest know but dont they receive pulses from the stator to work?
Is it the correct tachometer for the sled? If it's not original to the sled, then you have to match the pulse from the tach to the stator, just something I read when trying to figure my own out. I don't know much about them.
What if your wheels are hard to turn, don't spin freely? Do I just loosen the bolt?
Probably need to be replaced. Bearings likely shot.
@@MyOldSled thanks for the quick reply, really appreciate it. 👍
On the next idler wheel, put a bit of antseize grease on. And it'll come off easy ;) Cheers :)
Hi Tim. I used Permatex anti-seize on one on my older sled, but after doing a more reading, it really isn't recommended. They are a tight fit because being a bearing, they are supposed to be. It's really not that hard to get them off when you've done a few. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Sometimes when you press a bearing out it will flatten out the plastic where the retaining clip sits. If this happens you need a tool to flare the groove back out or the retaining clip won't for back in. Doesn't really apply to metal wheels
Thanks for the tip.
great video do you have a new sled ?
I have a ‘97 mxz 670 and a 2006 mxz 600.
@@MyOldSled ok good
+1 to pulling the skid once a year. That thing takes a beating and really does need to be inspected, front to back at least once a season.
I agree.
Sloppy yes then junk