hi i need your help me one of our forklift has the problem when the driver lifting the cargo at lowering the master starts to shaking please help me to finguring out the root cause
Hello sir... Can you help me to solve a problem...? My solenoid valve making too much sound and vibration... I opened it and clean it but problem is still there... Can you please tell me the solution of this problem...
Hello and thank you for you video. it some how helps. this is the issue we have and hopefully you shed some light. It is a solenoid valve for a Genie lift to move FWD. it is not moving fwd and when testing the solenoid it gives 18 ohms, another similar solenoid but new gives 22ohms. When testing the valve and the solenoid together out of the lift the valve does not moves very fast but it moves. Would that different in value mean anything or what's your experience? Thank you so much
Hi Saul, If I am understanding you correctly, you are saying that the valve does not shift at all when it is on the Genie, but it shifts slowly when removed, is that correct? If that is correct, then it is entirely possible that your coil is shorted part way through. With the lowered impedance, a much less stronger magnetic field would be generated. Strong enough, apparently, to shift the valve (though slowly) when not installed, but be unable to overcome the resistance of the high pressure fluid while installed on the machine. Do you have a known good coil with which it can be replaced? Please correct me if I misread your comment, otherwise, I hope this helps!
@@Gpmhydraulic , thank you I will rechecked because sadly that coil is $400, so I need to make sure that is the problem, so far I have tested others in the Manifold and so far I get 22 ohms, average. this coils only have 2 terminals so I wouldn't think I could get a partial damage, making it more confusing. If you would like I can try to give more feed back about it when I find more info. Thank you again
@@Gpmhydraulic OK. Problem fix. I'm so happy. The valve to move forward was stock open enough with a pinhead size debris. Regarding this 24 vdc coils rated at 15 amp max. I took a reading between 18 to 23 ohms. After reading the ohms in about 5 solenoids I concluded that the problem was not electrical. Thank you so much for your answers.
@@saulperalta4113 Glad to hear you got it corrected! Yeah, the way you described the problem, it didn't really sound like the coil was the issue. And it's certainly true that even tiny contaminants can wreak havoc!
Three possibilities - either you are on the wrong scale (and some solenoids do read lower than average), your coil may be DC rather than AC, in which you may need to isolate it from a rectifier bridge, or your coil has shorted part of the way through. It will then develop a minimal magnetic field which may or may not be strong enough to shift the valve. If the latter is the case, the coil is not likely to last much longer even if it will shift the valve. Hope this helps.
GPM Hydraulic Consulting Inc thanks for your reply, yes I’m leaning toward the electromagnetism not being strong enough to shift the spool, but it certainly is strong enough to be felt when I put the screw driver between. The thing that makes me also lean toward faulty solenoid is that hydraulic fluid is going to the ‘exciter motor through both hoses at the same time which to me appears would cancel each other out, thus meaning the motor will not function. There should be a flow, a return, and a drain in my limited experience. At $300 AUD for the solenoid I can’t afford to be wrong.
@@antpoo , Is there a way to manually make the valve (hole in the end where you could move the spool by sticking a screwdriver, welding rod, etc. in there)? It's sounding a little like a bad solenoid to me, too, but it would be great to be able to confirm it by manually making the valve and seeing the problem go away. Is there only one solenoid on the valve or two (forward and reverse)? If there are two, are they interchangeable? Be nice to swap them and see the problem go to the other side,, too.
GPM Hydraulic Consulting Inc I think if I unscrew the metal tube prong that sits inside the solenoid I can probably operate manually, good idea I will give it a try tomorrow. It’s a 2 way valve, one restricts flow to one hose which I assume makes the exciter motor shake, the other is an open position which stops the shake but allows fluid to flow through both hoses and the on to the power steering.
we use a MetalWork valve and coil in a hydraulic gate system, it uses air. every once in a while the gate stops, we have checked for water in the air lines and the traps are empty. we have replaced the main valve but a week later it still does it. we are going to change the solenoid as a precaution but suspect the controller be at fault ?? can you offer any tips ??
Well, there are a number of things that could cause it. If replacing the solenoid does indeed fix it, the root cause is probably elsewhere. Something is making the solenoid fail. The most common causes are: Spool binding or sticking when solenoid is energized Spool is contaminated Low line voltage Overvoltage Mounting base not flat within OEM specs (usually about .0003 - .0005") Energizing both solenoids at once (on dual solenoid valves) Hope this helps!
@@Gpmhydraulic Many thanks.. we replaced the valve which someone likes to think is getting water ingress, so when it stops/fails they like to release all the air pressure and put WD40 oil in the valve to 'free it off' although we know you shouldn't put oil in the valve and it's not the valve that's sticking as it's brand new last week, other was a year old, previous was five year old.' if it's not the solenoid i suspect the control unit is the issue as the transformer in the control unit failed a couple of years ago, instead of finding the fault they just replaced the transformer..!!
Hi Ejaz, thanks for your question! There are a few variables here to say with certainty which solenoid is bad, but I would lean toward believing that the hot one is the good one. The best way to tell is to check the impedance of the solenoids with a multimeter. For most solenoids, set your scale on 0 - 200 ohms and look for a reading. If you get a reading, that is a good indication. If it pegs to 0 or sits at infinity, the coil is likely to be bad. Another good test is to energize each solenoid and test for a magnetic field using either a small steel ruler, small screwdriver, or even a compass. If the field is not present, the solenoid is bad. The fact that one of them is cold does suggest that it may be bad, but it is not conclusive. It may just not get energized very much during operation. Hopefully, these checks can help you make a determination.
hi i need your help me one of our forklift has the problem when the driver lifting the cargo at lowering the master starts to shaking please help me to finguring out the root cause
Thank you , very helpful .
Thank you for your kind comment, Steve!
Thanks for posting.
Thanks. I learnt from it.
Does this apply to a tefal steam generator valve?
hi i need your help me one of our forklift has the problem when the driver lifting the cargo at lowering the master starts to shaking please help me to finguring out the root cause
Hello sir...
Can you help me to solve a problem...? My solenoid valve making too much sound and vibration... I opened it and clean it but problem is still there... Can you please tell me the solution of this problem...
Hello and thank you for you video. it some how helps. this is the issue we have and hopefully you shed some light. It is a solenoid valve for a Genie lift to move FWD. it is not moving fwd and when testing the solenoid it gives 18 ohms, another similar solenoid but new gives 22ohms.
When testing the valve and the solenoid together out of the lift the valve does not moves very fast but it moves.
Would that different in value mean anything or what's your experience?
Thank you so much
Hi Saul,
If I am understanding you correctly, you are saying that the valve does not shift at all when it is on the Genie, but it shifts slowly when removed, is that correct? If that is correct, then it is entirely possible that your coil is shorted part way through. With the lowered impedance, a much less stronger magnetic field would be generated. Strong enough, apparently, to shift the valve (though slowly) when not installed, but be unable to overcome the resistance of the high pressure fluid while installed on the machine. Do you have a known good coil with which it can be replaced? Please correct me if I misread your comment, otherwise, I hope this helps!
@@Gpmhydraulic , thank you I will rechecked because sadly that coil is $400, so I need to make sure that is the problem, so far I have tested others in the Manifold and so far I get 22 ohms, average. this coils only have 2 terminals so I wouldn't think I could get a partial damage, making it more confusing. If you would like I can try to give more feed back about it when I find more info. Thank you again
@@saulperalta4113 I look forward to hearing the outcome!
@@Gpmhydraulic OK. Problem fix. I'm so happy. The valve to move forward was stock open enough with a pinhead size debris. Regarding this 24 vdc coils rated at 15 amp max. I took a reading between 18 to 23 ohms. After reading the ohms in about 5 solenoids I concluded that the problem was not electrical.
Thank you so much for your answers.
@@saulperalta4113 Glad to hear you got it corrected! Yeah, the way you described the problem, it didn't really sound like the coil was the issue. And it's certainly true that even tiny contaminants can wreak havoc!
Yep thanks, my solenoid coil is reading zero and gets real hot. Still has electromagnetism though which confuses me .
Three possibilities - either you are on the wrong scale (and some solenoids do read lower than average), your coil may be DC rather than AC, in which you may need to isolate it from a rectifier bridge, or your coil has shorted part of the way through. It will then develop a minimal magnetic field which may or may not be strong enough to shift the valve. If the latter is the case, the coil is not likely to last much longer even if it will shift the valve. Hope this helps.
GPM Hydraulic Consulting Inc
thanks for your reply, yes I’m leaning toward the electromagnetism not being strong enough to shift the spool, but it certainly is strong enough to be felt when I put the screw driver between. The thing that makes me also lean toward faulty solenoid is that hydraulic fluid is going to the ‘exciter motor through both hoses at the same time which to me appears would cancel each other out, thus meaning the motor will not function. There should be a flow, a return, and a drain in my limited experience.
At $300 AUD for the solenoid I can’t afford to be wrong.
@@antpoo , Is there a way to manually make the valve (hole in the end where you could move the spool by sticking a screwdriver, welding rod, etc. in there)? It's sounding a little like a bad solenoid to me, too, but it would be great to be able to confirm it by manually making the valve and seeing the problem go away. Is there only one solenoid on the valve or two (forward and reverse)? If there are two, are they interchangeable? Be nice to swap them and see the problem go to the other side,, too.
GPM Hydraulic Consulting Inc
I think if I unscrew the metal tube prong that sits inside the solenoid I can probably operate manually, good idea I will give it a try tomorrow.
It’s a 2 way valve, one restricts flow to one hose which I assume makes the exciter motor shake, the other is an open position which stops the shake but allows fluid to flow through both hoses and the on to the power steering.
GPM Hydraulic Consulting Inc
It’s just the one solenoid, a little Wacker Neuson RD11a Vibratory roller.
we use a MetalWork valve and coil in a hydraulic gate system, it uses air.
every once in a while the gate stops, we have checked for water in the air lines and the traps are empty.
we have replaced the main valve but a week later it still does it.
we are going to change the solenoid as a precaution but suspect the controller be at fault ??
can you offer any tips ??
Well, there are a number of things that could cause it. If replacing the solenoid does indeed fix it, the root cause is probably elsewhere. Something is making the solenoid fail. The most common causes are:
Spool binding or sticking when solenoid is energized
Spool is contaminated
Low line voltage
Overvoltage
Mounting base not flat within OEM specs (usually about .0003 - .0005")
Energizing both solenoids at once (on dual solenoid valves)
Hope this helps!
@@Gpmhydraulic Many thanks..
we replaced the valve which someone likes to think is getting water ingress, so when it stops/fails they like to release all the air pressure and put WD40 oil in the valve to 'free it off'
although we know you shouldn't put oil in the valve and it's not the valve that's sticking as it's brand new last week, other was a year old, previous was five year old.'
if it's not the solenoid i suspect the control unit is the issue as the transformer in the control unit failed a couple of years ago, instead of finding the fault they just replaced the transformer..!!
I've got 2 solenoid valve fitted but one is hot and one is cold. Can you tell me which 1 is working perfect?
Hi Ejaz, thanks for your question! There are a few variables here to say with certainty which solenoid is bad, but I would lean toward believing that the hot one is the good one. The best way to tell is to check the impedance of the solenoids with a multimeter. For most solenoids, set your scale on 0 - 200 ohms and look for a reading. If you get a reading, that is a good indication. If it pegs to 0 or sits at infinity, the coil is likely to be bad. Another good test is to energize each solenoid and test for a magnetic field using either a small steel ruler, small screwdriver, or even a compass. If the field is not present, the solenoid is bad. The fact that one of them is cold does suggest that it may be bad, but it is not conclusive. It may just not get energized very much during operation. Hopefully, these checks can help you make a determination.
Who died
This seems to be about coal, I need help with coils. Thanks tho.
As a Georgia native, Hank definitely has a southern accent. I assure you however that the information contained will also help with coils.😎
Very helpful. Thank you.
hi i need your help me one of our forklift has the problem when the driver lifting the cargo at lowering the master starts to shaking please help me to finguring out the root cause
It sounds to me as though there may be a worn or maladjusted counterbalance valve on your mast cylinder. Hope this helps!