I was about to pull the trigger on repeating the same mistake of purchasing ANOTHER Attwood, after repairing the other 2 numerous times. Saw the Extreme Max, but wasn't sure. After watching your clip, I will be ordering one today....thanks!!!
Thanks , I just had a new Yamaha 115hp Vmax SHO motor installed onto my boat. I noticed immediately that the old transom saver I was using from my previous motor was going to scratch up the paint. Currently I am used an old sock as a softener to protect the paint. After stumbling across you video I ordered the Extreme max transom saver for my boat. The heavy duty rubber cushion block was just what I was looking for to protect the paint of my motor lower unit from being scratched.. Gary from PA
Forgive me if I sound silly. Is this only useful on an outboard? I am not a boater but would this be required on an inboard as well. I took my brothers boat out for him at the end is the season and his tilt was not working so the bottom of the engine was touching the ground while on the trailer. I took it out of the water this way but only went a few feet from the boat ramp very slowly. Then I disconnected the hydraulic rams that tilt the out drive and tied and strapped the out drive in the up position so that I could safely transport the boat home and it held. Thankfully I had some wrenches and some straps with me. Or does an an in board sit low enough and floor mount so that only the weight of the outdrive puts any stress on the transom?
I just finished installing my made in the USA steel transom saver that puts the weight of the motor on the trailer. Paid a few bucks more but the quality & design is there. Almost bought the cheaper aluminum one or the "sticks/cushions" that aren't really transom savers. Thanks for the info.
That transom saber does look strong but I like the ones that have space between the lower unit side so that the motor doesn’t touch it. I have had the huge rubber peice with the bolt going through it actually go bad and I didn’t see the crack in the center and after a few divits from the bolt I figured it out. I like the ones with no bolt. If I got this I would add that to the motor end to protect the lower unit. I guide here in Indiana and I also go through a few of them too I will definitely look into this one .
All I can say is ( long , short) that because of this video I decided to get one and now my wife and I are ALIVE!! According to the trooper that’s what saved us we were hit on the interstate at 80 mph and the transom saver kept the outboard from getting impelled into the car that hit us and flip, it was an ugly wreck but we walked away unscathed thank God! But my brand new Gheenoe and 25hp outboard... hmmm well that’s a story for another day. PEOPLE!! get a transom saver oh and boat insurance lol. Take care.
I have a question about the transom saber. When our boat is on the trailer, the motor does not stay straight - will the saber take the abuse while the motor is turned to the left or the right? If not what transom saver would work for me. I'm looking for something that will work well instead of tying the steering so it doesn't turn. Thanks for your input!
I don't understand how your transom cannot take a trailer ride down to the pier, but can handle all the force and torque from your engine pushing your boat around via the transom. I believe the forces required from your outboard to push your boat around is hell of a lot higher than that from a trailer ride down to the pier. I believe this is especially true at WOT which I know we all love to do to get to our fishing grounds.
Great video.. Got a question for ya. I have the same transom saver, but I also just got a new trailer ( load rite ) that does not have the rear roller for the transom saver and the motor to "rest" on. Do I have to start drilling holes in my new trailer? And another question... Does the U shape ever bounce off the rear roller while trailering? Concerns me a bit..
I have this transom saver on a boat with no rear roller. It should have come with parts for mounting to a trailer without rear roller. You do not have to drill, the bolt holding the rear "pad" on the trailer crossmember pulls out, you replace with a longer one and attach the extreme max bracket that came with the saver.
Does the motor have a tendency wobble to the side? I had one that had that rubber V and the motor would not stay straight, as it would wobble to one side or the other.
Hello.. are all transom savers supposed to have a spring inside to act as a shock absorber? The Atwood one I bought didn’t bring a spring. My Yamaha f9.9 only weights 97 lbs. Do you think I’d still need to install a spring inside my transom saver?
Thanks for your video. I want to buy this but it says rated for up to 150 HP motor. My motor is a DH250 which weights much more than a 150 HP. Any ideas?
these apparently only support up to 150hp motors? Not seeing one anywhere that supports more than that.. they only have two versions from what I can tell..
I wrap a second bungee cord from the Transom Saver to the trailer frame to keep it from breaking free. Years ago, I had the bottom of aTransom Saver come out of the trailer portion when trailering my 21’ bassboat with a 200 hp outboard from the Midwest to Florida. Never knew it till I did my “walk around” which I do at every stop where I check the boat, trailer, temperature of all wheel bearings, bow strap, hitch and safety chains. Must have been one hell of a catastrophe impact! Months later engine started slowly leaking Trim Fluid. The Transom Saver must have scored/dented the two Power Trim stainless steel rods when it broke free and probably swung under the engine only to be thrusted into the Trim rods! Anyway, I was lucky. Here’s another tip: Keep a filled 5-gallon gas can in the boat when trailering long distances. There have been times when someone just may need it. Be well.
@@Catfishedge I just bought the same length one you have and made a trip to toledo bend. Was pleased with it. I actually bought it off of Amazon, same part number and it links to extremes' site. The only thing now is on the Amazon site it states do not use on motors over 150 HP. I did email the guy and he acknowledged it was not on their site, but to be very careful using it on a larger motor. I mean this thing is stout. I would not think there would be any problems with it handling a 175SHO as I see you have it on a 250. Do you put the strap on the lower piece that goes on the roller? He stated the small strap was meant to strap it to the trailer in the event you hit a big pothole and the it jumped off of the roller. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. These Louisiana roads and i just didn't feel comfortable with that little Yamaha wedge supporting motor on trim/tilt cylinder. Seems like weight is still on transom instead of transferring to trailer.. Thoughts??
What about forces applied to trailer on a rough road being transmitted back to the motor.... I've seen it, the saver pushing up on the motor. I was following a boat to a ramp and watched it... I took my off....and got a motor totter.
I've got the motor mate I did have the aluminum Transom Saver and my thoughts were with the boat bouncing around on the trailer would have a affect on the transom I'm not a professional transom builder so I don't know I don't want to tear my transom up..
There's a lot wrong here. That rear brace of a trailer moves and flexes on bad roads, it is not completely static. More damaging harmonics are induced into your engine with a transom saver from the trailer than without the saver. If the engine is being smashed down onto a transom saver hard enough to damage it or wallow it out, then there's too much wrong there to go into explanation of. It kills motors mounts with the road harmonics from a saver. The stiffer the saver, the worse it is. The finest boat builders in this country don't recommend transom savers, they are a gimmicks. This is coming from someone who comes from a family and decades of avid fisherman and boat racers. Some of our hulls are 20ft and weigh 1/4th the weight of a fishing boat, using engines modded to over 500hp on 12,14,18 inches of setback. Been trailered without transom savers for over 20 years and not a single gel coat crack anywhere. Yet guys with 1500lbs hulls religiously using transom savers have signs of transom stress. Most of the downward weight of a tilted outboard isn't acting as a lever arm, arcing from the gearcase to the trailer, only appears that way. Most of the weight is perpendicular to the ground at the tilt pin area, under the crankshaft, at the top of the clamp bracket. Unless there's an imaginary brace coming up vertical from the road and affixing to the top of the trim ram, then it's not actually being saved from road induced G-forces contrary to how it may look to the casual eye. Putting a boat on the trailer with heavy throttle, the engine trimmed up is the most buckling force your transom will ever see, or coming out of the hole with the engine trimmed up. And outboard (depending) can push with a ton of force, and THAT is bad while at a trimmed angle. Massive buckling or pivot force. Transom flex using dial instruments have proven this. The road is a joke compared to the water use, based on instrumentation, unless a guy is practicing for a the Baja while towing. A transom saver on the road is of no real use, it's a perpetuated illusion.
I agree 100% that boat is going through massive waves under full throttle at times. My boat is a 2000 and never had one on it. I do think if your engine doesent have one get some of those piston sticks so it’s not riding on the hydraulic. If the manufacturers say they need them when don’t the come with the boat....
The purpose of a transom saver is to catch the motor in the event that the hydraulic system fails. That is the one and only real use for such a device. On many boat/ trailer setups (my own included), the skeg will come within an inch of the ground when trimmed all the way down. Should the hydraulics fail on the road this would almost certainly lead to contact with the road with skeg and/ or lower unit damage. Using a backup device is not necessary, however for the miniscule cost compared to my boat and trailer, the redundancy is appreciated. I wish they would just call them skeg savers, or hydraulic trim backup devices. But transom saver sounds better I guess.
So...250hp of pressure on that transom is fine...but it can't handle bouncing down the road? Sorry, I don't buy it. It's not going to hurt using one...but if your transom can't handle the static weight of your motor bouncing down the road which is absolutely minuscule compared to the pressures it sees at full throttle. Just getting out of the hole would rip the transom right off the boat.
@@Catfishedge right, the 90 degree moment arm gets much short and the centroid moves closer to the transom creating LESS leverage, so you have the weight of the motor bouncing down the road with less leverage vs a much higher moment created by the motor running at full throttle and you begin to trim it, literally lifting the bow of the boat out of the water by the transom. I'd have to agree the forces experienced during trailering are fractions of that experienced during running the boat.
@kvandy5989 well you have two parts here in the larger motors, the "trim" rams which are very strong and can easily handle very high loads, and then you have the "tilt" ram which when you are lifting the motor after the motor tilts up past the trim rams max angle the tilt ram takes over to lift the motor up. You may notice the motor begin to move much faster at a certain point when tilting up, this is when the tilt ram takes over. It is much weaker and is only designed to lift the motor up. So yes this can benefit greatly from using a motor support bracket while trailering. I use one and definitely recommend them. I am just stating that their use is not for saving the transom it is for saving that tilt ram.
@@pdub422 A question for the engineer. With a transom saver like this that has an adjustable length, it makes me curious if there is an ideal position for how much one should lower the engine, from the standpoint of stability, stress, tilt parts, etc. Obviously one doesn't want it so low it might hit the pavement, but otherwise is there any best position? Thanks.
I was about to pull the trigger on repeating the same mistake of purchasing ANOTHER Attwood, after repairing the other 2 numerous times. Saw the Extreme Max, but wasn't sure. After watching your clip, I will be ordering one today....thanks!!!
Thanks , I just had a new Yamaha 115hp Vmax SHO motor installed onto my boat. I noticed immediately that the old transom saver I was using from my previous motor was going to scratch up the paint. Currently I am used an old sock as a softener to protect the paint. After stumbling across you video I ordered the Extreme max transom saver for my boat. The heavy duty rubber cushion block was just what I was looking for to protect the paint of my motor lower unit from being scratched.. Gary from PA
Thanks
Forgive me if I sound silly. Is this only useful on an outboard? I am not a boater but would this be required on an inboard as well. I took my brothers boat out for him at the end is the season and his tilt was not working so the bottom of the engine was touching the ground while on the trailer. I took it out of the water this way but only went a few feet from the boat ramp very slowly. Then I disconnected the hydraulic rams that tilt the out drive and tied and strapped the out drive in the up position so that I could safely transport the boat home and it held. Thankfully I had some wrenches and some straps with me.
Or does an an in board sit low enough and floor mount so that only the weight of the outdrive puts any stress on the transom?
I just finished installing my made in the USA steel transom saver that puts the weight of the motor on the trailer. Paid a few bucks more but the quality & design is there. Almost bought the cheaper aluminum one or the "sticks/cushions" that aren't really transom savers. Thanks for the info.
Thanks
Thnx for the info. Almost bought a square aluminum one. You da man
That transom saber does look strong but I like the ones that have space between the lower unit side so that the motor doesn’t touch it. I have had the huge rubber peice with the bolt going through it actually go bad and I didn’t see the crack in the center and after a few divits from the bolt I figured it out. I like the ones with no bolt. If I got this I would add that to the motor end to protect the lower unit. I guide here in Indiana and I also go through a few of them too I will definitely look into this one .
Never had that issue with this one.
All I can say is ( long , short) that because of this video I decided to get one and now my wife and I are ALIVE!! According to the trooper that’s what saved us we were hit on the interstate at 80 mph and the transom saver kept the outboard from getting impelled into the car that hit us and flip, it was an ugly wreck but we walked away unscathed thank God! But my brand new Gheenoe and 25hp outboard... hmmm well that’s a story for another day. PEOPLE!! get a transom saver oh and boat insurance lol. Take care.
That’s crazy! Glad you’re ok!
I have a question about the transom saber. When our boat is on the trailer, the motor does not stay straight - will the saber take the abuse while the motor is turned to the left or the right? If not what transom saver would work for me. I'm looking for something that will work well instead of tying the steering so it doesn't turn. Thanks for your input!
I don't understand how your transom cannot take a trailer ride down to the pier, but can handle all the force and torque from your engine pushing your boat around via the transom. I believe the forces required from your outboard to push your boat around is hell of a lot higher than that from a trailer ride down to the pier. I believe this is especially true at WOT which I know we all love to do to get to our fishing grounds.
I drive my ski boat ( 200hp ) Merc 350kph away from home up to the lakes in New Zealand & our roads are shithouse , theses work 100%
Thanks, good information before i make the purchase of a Transom Saver
Great video.. Got a question for ya.
I have the same transom saver, but I also just got a new trailer ( load rite ) that does not have the rear roller for the transom saver and the motor to "rest" on. Do I have to start drilling holes in my new trailer? And another question... Does the U shape ever bounce off the rear roller while trailering? Concerns me a bit..
I have this transom saver on a boat with no rear roller. It should have come with parts for mounting to a trailer without rear roller. You do not have to drill, the bolt holding the rear "pad" on the trailer crossmember pulls out, you replace with a longer one and attach the extreme max bracket that came with the saver.
never bounced off. Contact the company they have a part to attach to the trailer I think.
Hello, I see you have your transducer mounted on a board. Which board is that? I’m looking to install my totals an transducer onto one.
Does the motor have a tendency wobble to the side? I had one that had that rubber V and the motor would not stay straight, as it would wobble to one side or the other.
With that type of transom saver, does the weight of the out board stop the transom saver from bouncing off the roller?
Yes
Does it not rust if its steel?
What if the trailer cross brace (point of attachment) is square, not round? Will this device still work?
It mounts to the roller
Hello.. are all transom savers supposed to have a spring inside to act as a shock absorber? The Atwood one I bought didn’t bring a spring. My Yamaha f9.9 only weights 97 lbs. Do you think I’d still need to install a spring inside my transom saver?
No
Was gonna order, they only say there good for 150hp on there site? What are your thoughts, thanks..
LOL I don't know where they got that.I use on a 300.
Thanks for your video. I want to buy this but it says rated for up to 150 HP motor. My motor is a DH250 which weights much more than a 150 HP. Any ideas?
I use it on a 300
@@Catfishedge Thank you
these apparently only support up to 150hp motors? Not seeing one anywhere that supports more than that.. they only have two versions from what I can tell..
It’ll hold bigger
When you trim down with it on should anything flex?
You should not be putting enough pressure for it to flex
Catfish Edge first time boater here, do I need a transom saver for an I/O boat, or it only applies to outboards?
Some people use them on I/O but more important for an OB
@@Catfishedge i really appreciate the information.
Thanks. I have been researching for a new quality transom saver. Is yours rusted on the piece that goes to the trailer?
Yes. It’s old.
@@Catfishedge Spray paint will make that last longer.
I wrap a second bungee cord from the Transom Saver to the trailer frame to keep it from breaking free. Years ago, I had the bottom of aTransom Saver come out of the trailer portion when trailering my 21’ bassboat with a 200 hp outboard from the Midwest to Florida. Never knew it till I did my “walk around” which I do at every stop where I check the boat, trailer, temperature of all wheel bearings, bow strap, hitch and safety chains. Must have been one hell of a catastrophe impact!
Months later engine started slowly leaking Trim Fluid. The Transom Saver must have scored/dented the two Power Trim stainless steel rods when it broke free and probably swung under the engine only to be thrusted into the Trim rods!
Anyway, I was lucky.
Here’s another tip: Keep a filled 5-gallon gas can in the boat when trailering long distances. There have been times when someone just may need it.
Be well.
New boater here. Going to buy a transom saver. Everytime you launch the boat do you have to take the saver off?
Yes.
Only for running down the road
Yes
What model do you have the 25 to 31 inch or the 29 to 53 inch ?
25-31
@@Catfishedge I just bought the same length one you have and made a trip to toledo bend. Was pleased with it. I actually bought it off of Amazon, same part number and it links to extremes' site. The only thing now is on the Amazon site it states do not use on motors over 150 HP. I did email the guy and he acknowledged it was not on their site, but to be very careful using it on a larger motor. I mean this thing is stout. I would not think there would be any problems with it handling a 175SHO as I see you have it on a 250. Do you put the strap on the lower piece that goes on the roller? He stated the small strap was meant to strap it to the trailer in the event you hit a big pothole and the it jumped off of the roller. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. These Louisiana roads and i just didn't feel comfortable with that little Yamaha wedge supporting motor on trim/tilt cylinder. Seems like weight is still on transom instead of transferring to trailer.. Thoughts??
Bontoon a too?
No idea what that means
Aluminum or Aluminium????
Get a DD26 if you want the absolute best.
These are better. Hands down.
No link to find one
Pontoon boats too?
It’s in the description
What about forces applied to trailer on a rough road being transmitted back to the motor....
I've seen it, the saver pushing up on the motor. I was following a boat to a ramp and watched it...
I took my off....and got a motor totter.
I've got the motor mate I did have the aluminum Transom Saver and my thoughts were with the boat bouncing around on the trailer would have a affect on the transom I'm not a professional transom builder so I don't know I don't want to tear my transom up..
I'm friends with the heads of several boat manufacturers and they all say use the ones that run from the motor to the trailer.
Use a hydrolic one with shock absorber.
Motor mate doesn’t take weight off transom.
DD26,....enough said.
There's a lot wrong here. That rear brace of a trailer moves and flexes on bad roads, it is not completely static. More damaging harmonics are induced into your engine with a transom saver from the trailer than without the saver.
If the engine is being smashed down onto a transom saver hard enough to damage it or wallow it out, then there's too much wrong there to go into explanation of. It kills motors mounts with the road harmonics from a saver. The stiffer the saver, the worse it is.
The finest boat builders in this country don't recommend transom savers, they are a gimmicks. This is coming from someone who comes from a family and decades of avid fisherman and boat racers. Some of our hulls are 20ft and weigh 1/4th the weight of a fishing boat, using engines modded to over 500hp on 12,14,18 inches of setback. Been trailered without transom savers for over 20 years and not a single gel coat crack anywhere.
Yet guys with 1500lbs hulls religiously using transom savers have signs of transom stress. Most of the downward weight of a tilted outboard isn't acting as a lever arm, arcing from the gearcase to the trailer, only appears that way. Most of the weight is perpendicular to the ground at the tilt pin area, under the crankshaft, at the top of the clamp bracket.
Unless there's an imaginary brace coming up vertical from the road and affixing to the top of the trim ram, then it's not actually being saved from road induced G-forces contrary to how it may look to the casual eye.
Putting a boat on the trailer with heavy throttle, the engine trimmed up is the most buckling force your transom will ever see, or coming out of the hole with the engine trimmed up. And outboard (depending) can push with a ton of force, and THAT is bad while at a trimmed angle. Massive buckling or pivot force. Transom flex using dial instruments have proven this. The road is a joke compared to the water use, based on instrumentation, unless a guy is practicing for a the Baja while towing.
A transom saver on the road is of no real use, it's a perpetuated illusion.
Every boat manufacturer I've ever spoken with says otherwise.
I agree 100% that boat is going through massive waves under full throttle at times. My boat is a 2000 and never had one on it. I do think if your engine doesent have one get some of those piston sticks so it’s not riding on the hydraulic. If the manufacturers say they need them when don’t the come with the boat....
The purpose of a transom saver is to catch the motor in the event that the hydraulic system fails. That is the one and only real use for such a device. On many boat/ trailer setups (my own included), the skeg will come within an inch of the ground when trimmed all the way down. Should the hydraulics fail on the road this would almost certainly lead to contact with the road with skeg and/ or lower unit damage. Using a backup device is not necessary, however for the miniscule cost compared to my boat and trailer, the redundancy is appreciated.
I wish they would just call them skeg savers, or hydraulic trim backup devices. But transom saver sounds better I guess.
Thank you! This comment makes sooo much sense!!!!
Thanks for your video, I cannot find the link on purchasing one of these. Can you send it?
It's in the description.
Its not available on Amazon. A direct link to their web site would help. Thanks Chad
Excellent information video 👍😃
they suck. the lower unit will cut into the rubber and hit the bolt in the transom saver bolt. Don't use it.
Been using one for years and never had an issue
So...250hp of pressure on that transom is fine...but it can't handle bouncing down the road? Sorry, I don't buy it. It's not going to hurt using one...but if your transom can't handle the static weight of your motor bouncing down the road which is absolutely minuscule compared to the pressures it sees at full throttle. Just getting out of the hole would rip the transom right off the boat.
The weight distribution is changed with the motor trimmed up
@@Catfishedge right, the 90 degree moment arm gets much short and the centroid moves closer to the transom creating LESS leverage, so you have the weight of the motor bouncing down the road with less leverage vs a much higher moment created by the motor running at full throttle and you begin to trim it, literally lifting the bow of the boat out of the water by the transom. I'd have to agree the forces experienced during trailering are fractions of that experienced during running the boat.
@kvandy5989 well you have two parts here in the larger motors, the "trim" rams which are very strong and can easily handle very high loads, and then you have the "tilt" ram which when you are lifting the motor after the motor tilts up past the trim rams max angle the tilt ram takes over to lift the motor up. You may notice the motor begin to move much faster at a certain point when tilting up, this is when the tilt ram takes over. It is much weaker and is only designed to lift the motor up. So yes this can benefit greatly from using a motor support bracket while trailering. I use one and definitely recommend them. I am just stating that their use is not for saving the transom it is for saving that tilt ram.
@JOHN KOTZ you guessed correctly! Lol
@@pdub422 A question for the engineer. With a transom saver like this that has an adjustable length, it makes me curious if there is an ideal position for how much one should lower the engine, from the standpoint of stability, stress, tilt parts, etc. Obviously one doesn't want it so low it might hit the pavement, but otherwise is there any best position? Thanks.
Mentira
Huh?