Glad to watch your photo trip in Slovenian Alps. I'm using the intrepid too (mk2 4x5). I'd like encourage you to use lens hood, a dark cloth, a fresnel lens (maybe you already got it on mk4), and a set of filters to control the contrast of lights and Colors. On mine camera I've sprayed a black inside, to catch up reflection coming from the lens. ... and try to buy a spot exposimeter.. it really worth the money. I'm using foma100 too, with id11 (1+1 dilution) because is a good film. But I prefer the FP4 because it's characteristic and consistency. Give it a try if you could.
Have a look at the 20th Century Camera film reels, excellent quality and value for money. I use the 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 reels. Enjoying your content, keep it up. I am also interested in your 8x10 build, would be great if you filmed that
For added contrast especially in the situation you found yourself a red filter would give you a tremendous amount of contrast between the sky and the mountains. It would block a good amount of the blue light from the sky making it way darker in relation to the mountains. Anyway love your videos especially some of the deep dives into the chemistry!
@@lostlightart6064 SF is one of my favorite cities In CA! Some of the coastal towns north and south are quite beautiful as well! Lately, though, I have been photographing the deserts in the southern part of the state.
Nice to see your videos. Only two questions: 1. Why develop one by one your sheet film in the Paterson tank? Isn't it better to develop them on a tray? I use a 3D printed support in a 3x35mm reels Paterson tank (the next bigger size you are) and can develop up to six 4x5 film sheets at one time. 2. Don't you think the negative has become too clear? It may be either underexposed or underdeveloped...
Hey Eduardo. Thanks for the comment. I dont shoot film that often to be honest. But I agree Ihave to print the adapter for the tank as soon as possible. Do you have a link to the files? Yeah it may be as well. Light meter on the phone can't really be trusted...
@@lostlightart6064 Hi! I have a 3D design based on MOD54 for sale on eBay and works fine! www.ebay.es/itm/4x5-sheet-support-reel-for-Paterson-developing-tank-large-format-film-3D-printed/293824486130
@@lostlightart6064 Thanks man that would be cool, I always wanted to try wet plate like you but never have the guts. looking at your videos I get the feeling you ran a channel before, I dont see the long learning curve that takes years for many including me.
@@Raychristofer No I just started a few weeks ago. Just to correct you I am shooting glass dry-plates not wet-plates. They are not coated with collodion but silver gelatine emulsion and can be developed just like normal film. Hit me up on FB and I am glad to continue the discussion ;)
@@lostlightart6064 I only recently got a red one for my Intrepid and have taken two shots with it. It makes a huge difference. My first attempt with Foma was at least two stops under exposed so you did well with yours.
Dude, I love your videos. I've been rediscovering film, myself, lately. I found you while researching glass plates because I have an old 3.25"x5.5" graflex that only takes glass plates. Anyway, your negatives looked WAY too thin. That may account for the lack of contrast you're seeing between mountains and sky. That makes me think they're severely underdeveloped or that they're underexposed. 1/160 @ f/16 seems reasonable. In fact, it's pretty close to the sunny 16 rule for ISO 100 film, especially when shooting snow (you'd usually bump to 1/100 @ f/22). So I wonder if something was wrong in your development. By the way, I have the same 2-reel paterson tank and I process my 4x5s the same way in it. I do two at a time, but I've been finding tiny flecks of emulsion missing and scratches on them. So I think two sheets may cause them to bump ever so slightly and scratch each other. Finally, I'm also thinking about building an 8x10 camera, so if you do a video I would love to see. If you need any assistance along the way, let me know. Maybe we can collaborate on it some how and both build them together.
Hey Patrick, Thanks for the comment. Yes negatives did turn out a bit thin but its quite common with fomapan 100. I am also suspicious that D76 that I made from scratch may not me ok. I did it with normal tap water because its very pure here in Slovenia but it may have some unwanted ingredients. I know that developer is all about PH levels so next time I will use distilled water instead... Yeah abou the camera I would appreciate any help I can get! Where are you from?
@@lostlightart6064 I'm in the United States (Florida). My understanding is that Fomapan 100 is the same as the rebranded Arista Ultra.EDU 100 we can buy here (they import it and sell cheap for students). I actually have a pack in my closet. I haven't found my negatives to be that low in contrast. Its possible your pH is off in your D76. Looking at recipes for it, it looks like it calls for Borax and Sodium Sulfite. Both of those are moderately alkaline. The more alkaline you make your developer, the more accelerated the developer and thus the more contrasty it'll be. Do you have pH test strips? It might be worth checking your D76 working solution (after you dilute it) to ensure its on the basic side rather than neutral or acidic. As for the 8x10 camera, I'm not entirely sure where to start. But I'm a fairly decent woodworker and would enjoy the project for sure. For me, it boils down to how overwhelming it is to even start designing one.
@@muppas82 From the states nice. Yeah I read a lot abput it and deffinetly have to check my PH levels! I also love woodwoorking, I know how to make the bellows but what I dont know yet is how to design it. For sure I want it to be light and as portable as possible!
@@lostlightart6064 I'm sure you've already come across this, but there's a pretty nice book about large format camera design here: jongrepstad.com/building-a-large-format-camera/ I always figured if I got serious about building one, I'd follow his guide. Also, if you don't already have it, you should check out The Darkroom Cookbook by Steve Anchell. I've been reading through it and have learned a lot about how the chemistry works and why. All of this time I've been using film chemistry and never knew why or how it did what it did...
Search Taco method for developing, for your basic set up you'll be able to process more than one sheet at a time in that tank.
Thanks for the tip!
Great Nejc. Always love your videos!
Thanks man! Love you work I saw on IG as well 😉
@@lostlightart6064 Oh great 👍
Glad to watch your photo trip in Slovenian Alps. I'm using the intrepid too (mk2 4x5). I'd like encourage you to use lens hood, a dark cloth, a fresnel lens (maybe you already got it on mk4), and a set of filters to control the contrast of lights and Colors. On mine camera I've sprayed a black inside, to catch up reflection coming from the lens. ... and try to buy a spot exposimeter.. it really worth the money. I'm using foma100 too, with id11 (1+1 dilution) because is a good film. But I prefer the FP4 because it's characteristic and consistency. Give it a try if you could.
Thanks man really appreciate all the tips!
Great videos. Thank you for the content.
You are welcome :)
Excellent video!! Thanks
Thank you Leandro :)
Have a look at the 20th Century Camera film reels, excellent quality and value for money. I use the 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 reels.
Enjoying your content, keep it up. I am also interested in your 8x10 build, would be great if you filmed that
I will. Thank you very much Craig 😊
@@lostlightart6064 unlike the MOD 54, with reels you can agitate and no scratches are left on the film.
Thank you for sharing this! I have used Foma100 before and it is not a very contrasty film, regardless of the development. If you can, try Ilford FP4+
Yeah I was aware of that. I have shoot some Ilford FP4+ before and its a veeery good film!
im disapointed by fomapan 100, I will try FP4+
Would so love to see you build an 8x10 camera :-)
Yes I hope I will have time for that soon!
For added contrast especially in the situation you found yourself a red filter would give you a tremendous amount of contrast between the sky and the mountains. It would block a good amount of the blue light from the sky making it way darker in relation to the mountains. Anyway love your videos especially some of the deep dives into the chemistry!
Hey Kai. Thanks for the tips. Will give it a try next time! Where are you from?
@@lostlightart6064 I am currently living in Southern California In the US.
@@pictor125 Great been there last year and loved SF!
@@lostlightart6064 SF is one of my favorite cities In CA! Some of the coastal towns north and south are quite beautiful as well! Lately, though, I have been photographing the deserts in the southern part of the state.
@@pictor125 Yeah I have been in Death valley as well and regretted to not have taken my 4x5 camera with me!
Light seal on dark slide seems to but your issue, clean it perhaps?
Maybe I will check thanks :)
Nice to see your videos. Only two questions:
1. Why develop one by one your sheet film in the Paterson tank? Isn't it better to develop them on a tray? I use a 3D printed support in a 3x35mm reels Paterson tank (the next bigger size you are) and can develop up to six 4x5 film sheets at one time.
2. Don't you think the negative has become too clear? It may be either underexposed or underdeveloped...
Hey Eduardo. Thanks for the comment. I dont shoot film that often to be honest. But I agree Ihave to print the adapter for the tank as soon as possible. Do you have a link to the files?
Yeah it may be as well. Light meter on the phone can't really be trusted...
@@lostlightart6064 Hi! I have a 3D design based on MOD54 for sale on eBay and works fine!
www.ebay.es/itm/4x5-sheet-support-reel-for-Paterson-developing-tank-large-format-film-3D-printed/293824486130
Great job bro I love what youre doing, Im shooting 4x5 also but with the paper nagatives for economy. I do a few analog videos on my channel as well.
Thanks a lot. Just subscribed to your channel as well. You are doing great work to! Maybe we should do a collab together one day?
@@lostlightart6064 Thanks man that would be cool, I always wanted to try wet plate like you but never have the guts. looking at your videos I get the feeling you ran a channel before, I dont see the long learning curve that takes years for many including me.
@@Raychristofer No I just started a few weeks ago. Just to correct you I am shooting glass dry-plates not wet-plates. They are not coated with collodion but silver gelatine emulsion and can be developed just like normal film. Hit me up on FB and I am glad to continue the discussion ;)
Nice job. A red filter would've really helped to accentuate and separate the mountains against that blue sky. Fantastic subject, nonetheless.
Thanks for the tip Jason. Yes I already ordered some and just cant wait to test them out!
@@lostlightart6064 I only recently got a red one for my Intrepid and have taken two shots with it. It makes a huge difference. My first attempt with Foma was at least two stops under exposed so you did well with yours.
@@jasonjeandron9380 oh okay I will keep your experience in mind. Thanks
Dude, I love your videos. I've been rediscovering film, myself, lately. I found you while researching glass plates because I have an old 3.25"x5.5" graflex that only takes glass plates.
Anyway, your negatives looked WAY too thin. That may account for the lack of contrast you're seeing between mountains and sky.
That makes me think they're severely underdeveloped or that they're underexposed. 1/160 @ f/16 seems reasonable. In fact, it's pretty close to the sunny 16 rule for ISO 100 film, especially when shooting snow (you'd usually bump to 1/100 @ f/22). So I wonder if something was wrong in your development.
By the way, I have the same 2-reel paterson tank and I process my 4x5s the same way in it. I do two at a time, but I've been finding tiny flecks of emulsion missing and scratches on them. So I think two sheets may cause them to bump ever so slightly and scratch each other.
Finally, I'm also thinking about building an 8x10 camera, so if you do a video I would love to see.
If you need any assistance along the way, let me know. Maybe we can collaborate on it some how and both build them together.
Hey Patrick,
Thanks for the comment. Yes negatives did turn out a bit thin but its quite common with fomapan 100. I am also suspicious that D76 that I made from scratch may not me ok. I did it with normal tap water because its very pure here in Slovenia but it may have some unwanted ingredients. I know that developer is all about PH levels so next time I will use distilled water instead...
Yeah abou the camera I would appreciate any help I can get!
Where are you from?
@@lostlightart6064 I'm in the United States (Florida). My understanding is that Fomapan 100 is the same as the rebranded Arista Ultra.EDU 100 we can buy here (they import it and sell cheap for students). I actually have a pack in my closet.
I haven't found my negatives to be that low in contrast. Its possible your pH is off in your D76. Looking at recipes for it, it looks like it calls for Borax and Sodium Sulfite. Both of those are moderately alkaline. The more alkaline you make your developer, the more accelerated the developer and thus the more contrasty it'll be.
Do you have pH test strips? It might be worth checking your D76 working solution (after you dilute it) to ensure its on the basic side rather than neutral or acidic.
As for the 8x10 camera, I'm not entirely sure where to start. But I'm a fairly decent woodworker and would enjoy the project for sure. For me, it boils down to how overwhelming it is to even start designing one.
@@muppas82 From the states nice. Yeah I read a lot abput it and deffinetly have to check my PH levels! I also love woodwoorking, I know how to make the bellows but what I dont know yet is how to design it. For sure I want it to be light and as portable as possible!
@@lostlightart6064 I'm sure you've already come across this, but there's a pretty nice book about large format camera design here: jongrepstad.com/building-a-large-format-camera/
I always figured if I got serious about building one, I'd follow his guide.
Also, if you don't already have it, you should check out The Darkroom Cookbook by Steve Anchell. I've been reading through it and have learned a lot about how the chemistry works and why. All of this time I've been using film chemistry and never knew why or how it did what it did...
@@muppas82 Thanks for all the tips really appreciate it!
8x10" is for wimps, build an 11x14" or 7x17" ;)
Yeah man agree. Go big or go home!!! Inserting emulsion coated windows :D