NEW! Official Gosforth Handyman merch available over at teespring.com/stores/gosforthhandyman Includes the soon-to-be-classic "My Dad's a Joiner" baby bodysuit. I'm very excited about this - more designs to come! :-)
Thanks Andy - great video! I watched this when you published it, and now I need to make a bevel cut so I'm using this as an essential reference guide. It is a really helpful tutorial based on experience and then careful listing (and solving) of the problems a user will likely encounter. I’ve commented before that I really appreciate the time and effort you put in to explaining the basics in your videos so thoroughly and not assuming that your viewers know the topic in detail (I don’t, and assume others don’t as well). I taught for a little while when I was younger and know that students benefit from the teacher covering the basics to ensure everyone is at the same level and not lost back on step 1. My current work place has experienced professional people who also benefit from the same approach - its neither patronising nor time wasting, it just makes you a good communicator. When you teach in a classroom you are always scanning for confused looks which tell you to go back a few steps and simplify what you’re doing to ensure no one is left behind. You can’t do that whilst making a video so I’m impressed you seem to get this right! Happy 2019 and keep up the great work!
I've watched this twice. Once a week ago and again just now, before my first ever 45' Bevel with my TS55. Thanks to you it came out absolutely perfect. Checked it with a Starret combination square and was amazed. Fantastic tips. I'm a noob woodworker but with people like you sharing their knowledge, even beginners can make great stuff if they pay attention to the details. Cheers man!
Thank you, I have a credenza to build using miters to connect the top to the sides. I was trying to decide which method would give me the best results, i.e. table saw with miter gauge, withe sled, router table with large chamfer bit or with the track saw. You convinced me to use the track saw with your going thoroughly through what could go wrong and controlling those from happening. Your efficiency is very much appreciated. Some RUclips people like to hear themselves talk too much.
Man that was the best advice I got for long bevel cuts with the circular saw by far. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for your time sir. Truly appreciated.
Hi Andy. Good video! When I'm at work, (I'm a Joiner), to square anything REALLY big, I use my Hillti laser level (steel tape style). What I do is:- lock the pendulum, then shine the laser directly down vertically (ish) from the ceiling, in 'cross mode' onto the edges of what you want to square.... Spot-on!!!! Unfortunately, the likes of the DeWalt ones cannot be 'locked', dont know about others? PLS maybe?
Great video Andy, thanks for explaining it so carefully. I have a Dewalt rail system which has a couple of advantages over the Festool/Makita/Triton etc pattern rail system, which both make bevel cuts better - 1) it has a splinter guard down both edges of the track and the manual advises you use one for 90 degree cuts and the other for 45 degree bevel cuts. I’ve only ever done 90 degree cuts but I’ve saved the other edge (marked with a sharpie) so if/when I do I can properly run the rail to the cut line. 2) the guide part of the rail is in the centre of the rail not near the edge so when you tilt the saw over its not as unbalanced and is held more securely in position. Not saying that these are reasons enough to ditch Festool etc rails, but they are Dewalt differentiators and if you do a lot of bevel cuts it may be worth considering their system
You must have a great dust collector/air cleaner if you're happy drinking tea in your workshop right afterwards! :) Great video, helped me out a lot. Thanks!
I know this comment is late but I am new track saws. Thanks for the bevel cut tips. It was one of the main reasons I purchased the saw. My new kreg saw also would tip over on the bevel setting. This made for a very uncomfortable cut. I was able to add a tab to the base that rides under a board added to the back of the track. Works great.
Thanks for the tips and advice! I can tell you're very detail oriented and do great work. Just got the Festool track saw, this really helps with getting great results.
I add a step. I check for the squarest corners to use those to start with. Then trim your factory edge using the squarest corners. Save a little bit of time.
Nice to more quality content from you - can't believe you've put out so many vids - all of which I've watched. There's always something to learn from a pro - E.g. I clad a quaint old 7-sided desk (which also became progressively wider from top to bottom) with shiny white minimalist panels, and the sequence of the 90 degree and bevel cuts... made my day. One "My dad thinks joining is tricky" bodysuit please!
I have got used to using an engineer's steel square for my tracksaw because it has an edge that sits snugly against the board - why do you favour the carpenter's square?
Like everyone else commented, the Makita track saw along with the Makita tracks has the anti-tipping mechanism. For parallel cuts, you might check out Dan Pattison’s channel, DP shop talk I think. He has a rather ingenious mechanism where two set-able jigs are set by one measurement jig. Best mechanism I’ve seen, and cheap to boot. For square cuts I spent the money ($200 US) for a Woodpeckers one-time-tool track squaring jig. Once set with a good square, have been making accurate square cuts. Though I wish I had known about TSO’s jig which simply snaps on square to begin with, expensive for sure, but compare that with a MFT and Parf dogs from Festool. Really enjoy your channel, keep ‘em coming when you can.
"Remember to use sandpa... What have I done with it?" "Don't forget to use the anti kickba... What have I done with it?" 😂😂😂😂 crack me up, mate😜 Oh, and good walkthrough, man👍
Great video as usual. Your "11 ways to keep from killing yourself with a table saw" was one of the best safety videos I have ever seen. But really - you need to take that wedding ring off when you are using power tools.
When making bevel cuts, I think it's a great idea to extend the saw base using the parallel guide (FESTOOL 491469). Put it on the non-blade side of the saw. The size is designed for non rail use. When using a rail you have to offset it upwards by a one-time-make shim.
@@gunneroutdoors3034: It's actually a very good saw. I had the Titan, but that burnt out after a couple of months of very little use. Took it back to Screwfix & they exchanged it for the Erbauer (just paid the extra). It was well worth it. The Erbauer has a much stronger motor (1400w) & the blade is a 48t. If you put a piece of gaffer tape over the hole on the side, it will greatly improve the dust collection. My main issue is the depth gauge. It's really fiddly & can take time to set up, but once done, it's fine. I just wish the gauge was like the Festool or Mafell with the sliding click-stop, it's so much easier. Oh & to take the anti-kickback off is just a matter of removing the screw from underneath & the mechanism comes off. I also use the Festool 1400 track. Perfect fit. Hope that helps.
My opinion on Festool parallel guides are that they are crap! No matter how much calibration and playing around I am always a mm out. They are expensive and clumsy to use. Micro dial on them would be great. My tip is, put a couple of marks on the board where you want cut, place your track on the marks and then measure from the back of the track to check you are parallel. The reason for this is, your splinter guard maybe off slightly, damaged, simply worn. Once you have the track set you can cut two pieces of mdf as your parallel guides and you should be good to go. That's my 2 cents worth. That was a bloody brilliant video mate. Well done. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Regarding the Festool parallel guides I couldn't agree more. Accuracy-wise they're OK but they're cumbersome as hell. I regret buying them. I bought the Seneca pgs and they are much more user friendly and less expensive too. Anyone want to buy some shitty parallel guides?
The use of parallel guides is only as good as the person using them. That is not meant to be an insult. There some tool set ups that I am useless with while I have seen other people who excel at them.
@@bighands69 You're welcome to your opinion but can you make a cut with your material, track, narrow rip guides and off cut all on top of the work surface without having everything on blocks, or have your material at a 45. As I said, accuracy wise they're OK, just a pain in the ass to work with compared to Senaca's less expensive guides.
I thought the Festool TS was designed to have identical cut alignment for 0 or angled cuts. I need bevels on every side to produce 32cm cubes.... I guess I'll need to work out if I have an offset to manage - or do it with my router using a 45deg bit and using a reference piece to lay my cube sides on to rout
Clear, logical explanation of doing bevel cuts! I've only done that once in five years. Maybe more now. I've started to use the GR-16 (TSO in the US, Axminster in the UK), which is amazing! It's not a parallel guide, but I've been using it to get parallel by cutting adjacent sides square. With it I can cut 2 exact copies at the same time by taping them together (cabinet sides, e.g.). But it doesn't do repetitive cuts. Well worth the high cost for me, since I have limited access to a table saw. Would it work against a beveled edge? Probably be a bit trickier.
Wonderful stuff! Thank you for devoting so much time to MDF. I love working with it, and it seems so many other sources I read online really discourage using MDF. It's nice to know that I'm not off-base, and your techniques are helping!
Great video, this is just what I tried to do today. By the way, the Bosch/Mafell saws have the same tipping problem, maybe even more so since the track is a little more slender, so there is no such thing as the anti-kickback device that one could use to stop the saw from tipping.
Peter Millard beat me to it on the Makita didn’t know about the Titan. Do you think the ts55 could be modified as it is compatible with the makita track?
I use the one on my Makita. It works very well (sometimes you can't use two hands on the saw), BUT the Makita doesn't have a riving knife, the depth gauge is a complete mystery (track or no track?), and there's no splinter guard for the waste. On balance I wish I'd gone green and black originally
Hi Andy, just found your channel, (Brilliant New sub) I'm an avid, yet total novice DIYer ( I make it up as I go along) nice to get tips from Pros!!! Thanks. Oh yes, I'm just down the road from you as well AREET!!
Another top job sir! If you are ever in the Teesside/Billingham area do feel free to drop in, grab a brew and perhaps run a learned eye over my little start-up. Cheers
Hi Andy! Great video man - thank you. I have recently got a Bosch cordless track saw and it allows for -1 degrees and 46/47 degree bevels. I've never had to do a bevel cut like that before and am not really sure why you would need to, so I wanted to ask if you have? I can't find a lot online about it, so would really appreciate your input! Happy 2023!
Thank you for the information. I will be doing 8 cuts of 240cm today, and needed to see if there were any good guides for doing this. I will have to join my two 1400 rails to be able to do the cut, and I never did this before. I did a practice dry-run on my table saw, and right away understood that would not be able to do it. If the TS55 performs well today, it will be worth the investment!
You would think that festoon would take acue from Mikita and add a similar anti tilt system to their track/plunge saws unless they have already done so on newer models. Thanks for the video!
another great video Andy, I have to ask, as a fellow "Northerner " do you really think the festoon products are worth the prices they are charging, expensive kit to find that doing the bevel cut has all the stability problems.Surely a better design for the tracking would be a small lip running down the edge of the track that enveloped the saw base plate thus stopping any "lift off ", from Garry from Barnsley.
i need help. when i saw with my bosch tracksaw it sometimes leaves a bow in the cut. zo its not straight evn while i tried clamping. also my saw rocks from side to side when i put it on the table. Another question how do you know you saw is on 45 degrees how do you check it.
Super-informative video, you've got a new subscriber 👍 I wanted to ask - making the bevel cut first and measuring from it makes sense, but do you have any special method when BOTH edges of your board are bevel (like a waterfall desk or mitre-cornered box for example)? Would you just measure from the first bevel and cut the second hoping for the best or is there some other technique?
Yes, you just need to be super accurate on your 2nd bevel cut - perhaps sneak up to the mark if needs be. Once you've done one you can make guide blocks for all the others. Welcome to the channel! 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Actually there are, you can see them at 9:08 in your video. the liittle green cam wheels for getting the saw snug to the guide. If you tighten them right up it will help and stop the tipping, it will just slide a fair bit slower. Nice video as usual!
Some people very happy with Evolution. I only ever had faulty ones that went back as returns before ever used. Same with an Erbauer double bevel sliding mitre saw. Go DeWalt or similar quality
I’m going crazy trying to cuts bevels like this. The problem is when I clamp my track down, the force of the clamps ever so slightly causes the track to bow ( raises up slightly in the middle). As a result, this change of compound angle from the bow causes the saw to be at a slightly different angle and fail to cut off enough material at the start and end of the cut. The extra material is slight, but enough to make the cut unusable for mitered joints. If that’s confusing, picture the cut line you would draw with a pencil. After the cut, the pencil line is gone in the middle but still present an inch or two at each end of a 16” board. If anyone has a solution for this, I’d love to hear it. Have tried everything to try and support the track with scraps while cutting into a sacrificial surface but nothing seems to work well. This same cut comes out fine without clamping, but then the track will often shift so this method isn’t very practical.
You need the board being cut to be fully supported along the length - I use foam and that works great. I keep firm pressure on the front of the saw plate during the cut. 👍
Gosforth Handyman hmm I’m cutting on a sacrificial mdf table so the piece is fully supported. I’m hypothesizing that it’s actually the track that needs to be supported in my case, but even butting scraps up to the edge of the cut under the track doesn’t always seem to work 🤷🏻♀️
My trusty Titan track saw has built in anti tip and anti kick back! Looking at the comments it sounds like it's pretty much only the festeringstool that doesn't!? Why would they leave something so obvious off?
I’d say that’s because they invented track saws and others have copied and made their own modifications. Adding an anti kickback now, may make it incompatible when trying to join together existing tracks - having said that, their original track from years back, cannot be joined with the current ones.
I need some advise, I’ve recently purchased TS55. On my first bevel cut the blade start tearing up the edge of the guide rail. What should I do to prevent that happening
You know, right under where you were holding the base of the saw there are two green knobs for locking the saw to the track for bevel cuts. They slightly inhibit the smoothness of the track, but much better than having your hand in a dangerous place like that.
Gosforth Handyman I’ve had both, the DeWalt is a heavier price of kit, the festool is maybe better but only down to the depth lock is easier to use, and the tracks are maybe little better, I got rid of mine because it could take the hard work I put mine through, plastic broke and just was not as heavy duty, I now have 3 delwalt tracksaws, 110v, 240v and the battery version. Never let me down, only hate is the stupidly little and over tight depth locking screw.
![Tricky Tracksaw Cuts [video 460]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ybSSZ5R31aI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Tricky Tracksaw Cuts [video 460]](/img/tr.png)
NEW! Official Gosforth Handyman merch available over at teespring.com/stores/gosforthhandyman
Includes the soon-to-be-classic "My Dad's a Joiner" baby bodysuit. I'm very excited about this - more designs to come! :-)
Why is the merchandise in USA $’s?
Push in a board .how about just suggesting a clamp.What a wanker.
@@johndavid8949 lol wtf are you talking about? Such a rude and unnecessary comment!
Thanks for adjusting the volume of the saw when cutting in the video. I wish more RUclipsr would do that.
Makita cordless plunge saw has a nifty little push out cam that locks it into the rail when bevelling, it's a godsend😁
But... but... Festool!
The RIP guide fence
The Makita track saw has a build in mechanism to prevent the saw from tipping over. Very useful.
@@pluffer96 "Dangerous"... yeah well... it is a saw with a very fast spinning blade.
Thanks Andy - great video! I watched this when you published it, and now I need to make a bevel cut so I'm using this as an essential reference guide. It is a really helpful tutorial based on experience and then careful listing (and solving) of the problems a user will likely encounter.
I’ve commented before that I really appreciate the time and effort you put in to explaining the basics in your videos so thoroughly and not assuming that your viewers know the topic in detail (I don’t, and assume others don’t as well).
I taught for a little while when I was younger and know that students benefit from the teacher covering the basics to ensure everyone is at the same level and not lost back on step 1.
My current work place has experienced professional people who also benefit from the same approach - its neither patronising nor time wasting, it just makes you a good communicator.
When you teach in a classroom you are always scanning for confused looks which tell you to go back a few steps and simplify what you’re doing to ensure no one is left behind. You can’t do that whilst making a video so I’m impressed you seem to get this right!
Happy 2019 and keep up the great work!
I've watched this twice. Once a week ago and again just now, before my first ever 45' Bevel with my TS55. Thanks to you it came out absolutely perfect. Checked it with a Starret combination square and was amazed. Fantastic tips. I'm a noob woodworker but with people like you sharing their knowledge, even beginners can make great stuff if they pay attention to the details. Cheers man!
Thank you, I have a credenza to build using miters to connect the top to the sides. I was trying to decide which method would give me the best results, i.e. table saw with miter gauge, withe sled, router table with large chamfer bit or with the track saw. You convinced me to use the track saw with your going thoroughly through what could go wrong and controlling those from happening. Your efficiency is very much appreciated. Some RUclips people like to hear themselves talk too much.
Man that was the best advice I got for long bevel cuts with the circular saw by far. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for your time sir. Truly appreciated.
Hi Andy. Good video! When I'm at work, (I'm a Joiner), to square anything REALLY big, I use my Hillti laser level (steel tape style).
What I do is:- lock the pendulum, then shine the laser directly down vertically (ish) from the ceiling, in 'cross mode' onto the edges of what you want to square.... Spot-on!!!!
Unfortunately, the likes of the DeWalt ones cannot be 'locked', dont know about others? PLS maybe?
Straightforward, very watchable, sensible and excellent video.
I am glad it isn't just me who can't find anything that i have just used ;-) ! Thanks again for taking the time to show us your technique.
Love your sound editing, great idea to drop the machine sound level and compensate with music. Well done sir my ears appreciate you11
Great video Andy, thanks for explaining it so carefully. I have a Dewalt rail system which has a couple of advantages over the Festool/Makita/Triton etc pattern rail system, which both make bevel cuts better - 1) it has a splinter guard down both edges of the track and the manual advises you use one for 90 degree cuts and the other for 45 degree bevel cuts. I’ve only ever done 90 degree cuts but I’ve saved the other edge (marked with a sharpie) so if/when I do I can properly run the rail to the cut line. 2) the guide part of the rail is in the centre of the rail not near the edge so when you tilt the saw over its not as unbalanced and is held more securely in position.
Not saying that these are reasons enough to ditch Festool etc rails, but they are Dewalt differentiators and if you do a lot of bevel cuts it may be worth considering their system
You must have a great dust collector/air cleaner if you're happy drinking tea in your workshop right afterwards! :) Great video, helped me out a lot. Thanks!
I know this comment is late but I am new track saws. Thanks for the bevel cut tips. It was one of the main reasons I purchased the saw. My new kreg saw also would tip over on the bevel setting. This made for a very uncomfortable cut. I was able to add a tab to the base that rides under a board added to the back of the track. Works great.
Very Helpful. And now I'm going to buy a Festool track saw!
Thanks for the tips and advice! I can tell you're very detail oriented and do great work. Just got the Festool track saw, this really helps with getting great results.
Thanks. Still no tracksaw but enjoy watching and learning so much....cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.
I add a step. I check for the squarest corners to use those to start with. Then trim your factory edge using the squarest corners. Save a little bit of time.
It's a very clean bevel cut a lot better than a table saw great video Andy thanks
Cheers David - defo cleaner cut than table saw for bigger boards. 👍
Perfect, exactly what i was looking for, thank you!!
Nice to more quality content from you - can't believe you've put out so many vids - all of which I've watched. There's always something to learn from a pro - E.g. I clad a quaint old 7-sided desk (which also became progressively wider from top to bottom) with shiny white minimalist panels, and the sequence of the 90 degree and bevel cuts... made my day. One "My dad thinks joining is tricky" bodysuit please!
I have got used to using an engineer's steel square for my tracksaw because it has an edge that sits snugly against the board - why do you favour the carpenter's square?
Mainly for the size - but for shorter stuff I prefer the speedsquare. If it's a big engineer's square though they're great - don't have one. 👍😀
Like everyone else commented, the Makita track saw along with the Makita tracks has the anti-tipping mechanism. For parallel cuts, you might check out Dan Pattison’s channel, DP shop talk I think. He has a rather ingenious mechanism where two set-able jigs are set by one measurement jig. Best mechanism I’ve seen, and cheap to boot. For square cuts I spent the money ($200 US) for a Woodpeckers one-time-tool track squaring jig. Once set with a good square, have been making accurate square cuts. Though I wish I had known about TSO’s jig which simply snaps on square to begin with, expensive for sure, but compare that with a MFT and Parf dogs from Festool.
Really enjoy your channel, keep ‘em coming when you can.
Great advice, especially about breaking the edge of the bevel cut with sandpaper.
Yes, learned from experience and blood on customer projects. 😂
"Remember to use sandpa... What have I done with it?"
"Don't forget to use the anti kickba... What have I done with it?"
😂😂😂😂 crack me up, mate😜
Oh, and good walkthrough, man👍
Cheers bud - I swear there's someone in my shop hiding stuff from me for a laugh. 😂
@@GosforthHandyman those bloody minute men and their gremlins, aye... Hahahaha😂
Thanks for the tips. Followed each point and they helped completely!
Excellent video and extremely informative . Love the tune too!!!
Great video as usual. Your "11 ways to keep from killing yourself with a table saw" was one of the best safety videos I have ever seen. But really - you need to take that wedding ring off when you are using power tools.
Perfect explanation, excellent video - thank you mate.
Andy, I like how the air cleaner also plays music... nice track too... 😂😂
Nicely done.👍 At least someone is getting in with the tracksaw workshop.😉
Thanks for nailing it and nice video, now I can nail it as well. Hopefully :)
Nicely explained Andy. As always a BIG bevelled edge 👍 from me!
Oh man, for a moment I had a cold sweat when you shook that board with the saw hanging out over the edge like that. Pfew!
anyone knows the background music @13:00 ?
When making bevel cuts, I think it's a great idea to extend the saw base using the parallel guide (FESTOOL 491469). Put it on the non-blade side of the saw.
The size is designed for non rail use. When using a rail you have to offset it upwards by a one-time-make shim.
Erbauer also has the anti tilt function to stop the track saws from tipping over. I took mine off, but easy to re-install if the need arises
How do you rate that saw mate
@@gunneroutdoors3034: It's actually a very good saw. I had the Titan, but that burnt out after a couple of months of very little use. Took it back to Screwfix & they exchanged it for the Erbauer (just paid the extra). It was well worth it. The Erbauer has a much stronger motor (1400w) & the blade is a 48t. If you put a piece of gaffer tape over the hole on the side, it will greatly improve the dust collection. My main issue is the depth gauge. It's really fiddly & can take time to set up, but once done, it's fine. I just wish the gauge was like the Festool or Mafell with the sliding click-stop, it's so much easier. Oh & to take the anti-kickback off is just a matter of removing the screw from underneath & the mechanism comes off. I also use the Festool 1400 track. Perfect fit. Hope that helps.
My opinion on Festool parallel guides are that they are crap! No matter how much calibration and playing around I am always a mm out. They are expensive and clumsy to use. Micro dial on them would be great. My tip is, put a couple of marks on the board where you want cut, place your track on the marks and then measure from the back of the track to check you are parallel. The reason for this is, your splinter guard maybe off slightly, damaged, simply worn. Once you have the track set you can cut two pieces of mdf as your parallel guides and you should be good to go. That's my 2 cents worth.
That was a bloody brilliant video mate. Well done. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Regarding the Festool parallel guides I couldn't agree more. Accuracy-wise they're OK but they're cumbersome as hell. I regret buying them. I bought the Seneca pgs and they are much more user friendly and less expensive too. Anyone want to buy some shitty parallel guides?
@@ThekiBoran ha, I'm just about to put my on trade me. I've had enough! Hoping the money will help fund my new Lamello!
The use of parallel guides is only as good as the person using them. That is not meant to be an insult. There some tool set ups that I am useless with while I have seen other people who excel at them.
@@bighands69
You're welcome to your opinion but can you make a cut with your material, track, narrow rip guides and off cut all on top of the work surface without having everything on blocks, or have your material at a 45. As I said, accuracy wise they're OK, just a pain in the ass to work with compared to Senaca's less expensive guides.
Great tutorial!
The Makita SP6000 tracksaw has a slider that hooks in the rail to prevent it from tipping off.
I thought the Festool TS was designed to have identical cut alignment for 0 or angled cuts. I need bevels on every side to produce 32cm cubes.... I guess I'll need to work out if I have an offset to manage - or do it with my router using a 45deg bit and using a reference piece to lay my cube sides on to rout
You could put the anti kickback on the front so that it holds it in place as you progress
Clear, logical explanation of doing bevel cuts! I've only done that once in five years. Maybe more now. I've started to use the GR-16 (TSO in the US, Axminster in the UK), which is amazing! It's not a parallel guide, but I've been using it to get parallel by cutting adjacent sides square. With it I can cut 2 exact copies at the same time by taping them together (cabinet sides, e.g.). But it doesn't do repetitive cuts. Well worth the high cost for me, since I have limited access to a table saw. Would it work against a beveled edge? Probably be a bit trickier.
K.B. Woodworker agree. Love my GR-16
Great stuff - cheers for info! 👍
Wonderful stuff! Thank you for devoting so much time to MDF. I love working with it, and it seems so many other sources I read online really discourage using MDF. It's nice to know that I'm not off-base, and your techniques are helping!
Just be careful with the dust - nasty stuff. Cheers bud! 👍😀
Great video, this is just what I tried to do today. By the way, the Bosch/Mafell saws have the same tipping problem, maybe even more so since the track is a little more slender, so there is no such thing as the anti-kickback device that one could use to stop the saw from tipping.
Makita ( and hilariously Titan) have an anti-tipping ‘lip’ on their tracksaws; I never use it 😂👍
Peter Millard beat me to it on the Makita didn’t know about the Titan. Do you think the ts55 could be modified as it is compatible with the makita track?
I suppose the designer of the Festool track has the Not-Invented-Here syndrome. ;)
So does the Triton, with an infuriating kickback “brake” button. 😂
Having also the matching saw to the makita tracks, i can say it works great. but that alone isnt worth the makita - get a mafell instead.
I use the one on my Makita. It works very well (sometimes you can't use two hands on the saw), BUT the Makita doesn't have a riving knife, the depth gauge is a complete mystery (track or no track?), and there's no splinter guard for the waste. On balance I wish I'd gone green and black originally
Hi Andy, just found your channel, (Brilliant New sub) I'm an avid, yet total novice DIYer ( I make it up as I go along) nice to get tips from Pros!!! Thanks. Oh yes, I'm just down the road from you as well AREET!!
Welcome to the channel bud! Y'aaalreet!! 👍👊
Another top job sir! If you are ever in the Teesside/Billingham area do feel free to drop in, grab a brew and perhaps run a learned eye over my little start-up.
Cheers
Cheers Matt! 👍
Hi Andy! Great video man - thank you. I have recently got a Bosch cordless track saw and it allows for -1 degrees and 46/47 degree bevels. I've never had to do a bevel cut like that before and am not really sure why you would need to, so I wanted to ask if you have? I can't find a lot online about it, so would really appreciate your input! Happy 2023!
Thank you for the information. I will be doing 8 cuts of 240cm today, and needed to see if there were any good guides for doing this. I will have to join my two 1400 rails to be able to do the cut, and I never did this before. I did a practice dry-run on my table saw, and right away understood that would not be able to do it. If the TS55 performs well today, it will be worth the investment!
A great tutorial, thanks.
You would think that festoon would take acue from Mikita and add a similar anti tilt system to their track/plunge saws unless they have already done so on newer models. Thanks for the video!
Quality tune, dude.
Nice one Andy, i thought your expensive saw was going to do a dive when you were packing up the MDF sheet.
Thanks for the video. Have you run into any problems when doing a longer mitre cut on thicker stock or hardwood using this method?
another great video Andy, I have to ask, as a fellow "Northerner " do you really think the festoon products are worth the prices they are charging, expensive kit to find that doing the bevel cut has all the stability problems.Surely a better design for the tracking would be a small lip running down the edge of the track that enveloped the saw base plate thus stopping any "lift off ", from Garry from Barnsley.
i need help. when i saw with my bosch tracksaw it sometimes leaves a bow in the cut. zo its not straight evn while i tried clamping. also my saw rocks from side to side when i put it on the table. Another question how do you know you saw is on 45 degrees how do you check it.
I have a Walko workbench, all problems solved. Nice an handy vid though. especially the sandpaper.
Great video Andy i was just about to order a dewalt 745 table saw but just seen the Evolution rage 5 whats your opinion
Haven't used the Rage 5! Love the 745 but I've heard of some quality issues lately. 👍
Thanks; useful info
Given a .75” thick board, how deep do you set your plunge?
What mask filters do you use please?
Super-informative video, you've got a new subscriber 👍
I wanted to ask - making the bevel cut first and measuring from it makes sense, but do you have any special method when BOTH edges of your board are bevel (like a waterfall desk or mitre-cornered box for example)? Would you just measure from the first bevel and cut the second hoping for the best or is there some other technique?
Yes, you just need to be super accurate on your 2nd bevel cut - perhaps sneak up to the mark if needs be. Once you've done one you can make guide blocks for all the others. Welcome to the channel! 👍
At front and back of your track saw I'm sure there is 2 locking cams to aid in bevelled cuts and holding saw to track. Maybe wrong
Nope - not on the Festool! 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Actually there are, you can see them at 9:08 in your video. the liittle green cam wheels for getting the saw snug to the guide. If you tighten them right up it will help and stop the tipping, it will just slide a fair bit slower. Nice video as usual!
Great video Andy. Do you have your dust extraction set up to switch on the funky music when you start cutting? 😀
😂 Not yet but there's an idea!
Remember where you heard it first :-)
What was the song at the end?
Now,where did i put my brain?🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
i have never seen an accurat 90 degree framing square..
Great video Andy i was just about to order a dewalt 745 table saw but just seen the Evolution rage 5 whats your opinion
Some people very happy with Evolution. I only ever had faulty ones that went back as returns before ever used. Same with an Erbauer double bevel sliding mitre saw. Go DeWalt or similar quality
This video seemed to be more on how to square a board??
I’m going crazy trying to cuts bevels like this. The problem is when I clamp my track down, the force of the clamps ever so slightly causes the track to bow ( raises up slightly in the middle). As a result, this change of compound angle from the bow causes the saw to be at a slightly different angle and fail to cut off enough material at the start and end of the cut. The extra material is slight, but enough to make the cut unusable for mitered joints.
If that’s confusing, picture the cut line you would draw with a pencil. After the cut, the pencil line is gone in the middle but still present an inch or two at each end of a 16” board. If anyone has a solution for this, I’d love to hear it. Have tried everything to try and support the track with scraps while cutting into a sacrificial surface but nothing seems to work well. This same cut comes out fine without clamping, but then the track will often shift so this method isn’t very practical.
You need the board being cut to be fully supported along the length - I use foam and that works great. I keep firm pressure on the front of the saw plate during the cut. 👍
Gosforth Handyman hmm I’m cutting on a sacrificial mdf table so the piece is fully supported. I’m hypothesizing that it’s actually the track that needs to be supported in my case, but even butting scraps up to the edge of the cut under the track doesn’t always seem to work 🤷🏻♀️
Did you use the the standard 48 tooth blade for this?
Yup 👍
Don’t be annoyed mate, just asking 😄
If the beveled cut is the first cut, then is there any point in making it square to any of the other edges?
No, but this was the 3rd cut. 👍😀
Gosforth Handyman Thanks, that sorts that riddle in my head.🤪
My trusty Titan track saw has built in anti tip and anti kick back! Looking at the comments it sounds like it's pretty much only the festeringstool that doesn't!? Why would they leave something so obvious off?
Probably so you have to keep buying new saws when they fall off the track. 😂
I’d say that’s because they invented track saws and others have copied and made their own modifications. Adding an anti kickback now, may make it incompatible when trying to join together existing tracks - having said that, their original track from years back, cannot be joined with the current ones.
I need some advise, I’ve recently purchased TS55. On my first bevel cut the blade start tearing up the edge of the guide rail. What should I do to prevent that happening
Have you done your first cut (trimming the guide rail) with a non-bevel cut first?
Gosforth Handyman I’ve done my first cut with bevel cut
You should make a mft style workbench
+1 - Matt Eastlea's Parf guide MFT video is well worth a spin Andy; shows just how quickly parf hole MFT tops can be knocked out
I'm tempted too. You can get MFT tops with nice CNC'd holes for about £30
I'll be making my assembly table MFT at some point but it wouldn't really help for bevel cuts as you still couldn't get the clamps in. 👍
Seneca Woodwork
Check out their parallel clamps! So much better than Festool. And you can purchase longer arms for them.
Haven't seen them in the UK - look good though! 👍
You know, right under where you were holding the base of the saw there are two green knobs for locking the saw to the track for bevel cuts. They slightly inhibit the smoothness of the track, but much better than having your hand in a dangerous place like that.
Umm... the gib cams? They're for taking play out the track - not for bevel cuts. 👍
I don't think you can make an infinately long cut by joining an infinate amount of tracks as theoretically, you'd run out of Aluminium.
Track all the way 'round the earth? 🤔😂
If it was big enough you could use a mobius strip configuration.
Those ridiculous out of square boards probably came from Howdens.
Dewalt Track Saw doesn’t tip or need any extra anti tip device, that said the depth guide lock is a shit design!
I like the look of the DeWalt! 👍
Gosforth Handyman I’ve had both, the DeWalt is a heavier price of kit, the festool is maybe better but only down to the depth lock is easier to use, and the tracks are maybe little better, I got rid of mine because it could take the hard work I put mine through, plastic broke and just was not as heavy duty, I now have 3 delwalt tracksaws, 110v, 240v and the battery version. Never let me down, only hate is the stupidly little and over tight depth locking screw.
UK is behind GE. So stop complaining. Make a better product.
Always cut on materials that are cancerous