Okay, so I lose sometimes when I buy Cheap Range Rovers, but I ALWAYS Win when I play War Thunder 💥 wtplay.link/samcrac - Download War Thunder for FREE and get your bonus!
Just buy the cheap ones and test them out to make sure the tranny is good. If it works then get the OEM solenoids and put them on. You could easily clean up the truck and flip it for more than you spent if you don't want to keep it.
I had a similar issue with my 2007 chevy silverado (it was also stuck in 3rd gear). I brought the truck to several places and ask them to replace the solenoids. Every single place I went to (7) said no. Most transmission shops don't want to touch a vehicle unless there is $2,500 or more involved! I even told a couple of places I would sign a waiver and they still said no. I didn't want to do it myself because I don't have a lift and hate working on my back but I sucked it up and did it. This was 18 months ago and haven't had an issue since. Note: You technically just have to change 1 solenoid but change all 4 UNLESS you are flipping the vehicle. If that's the case then just replace the bad solenoid with a refurb or cheap knock-off. My final bill for 4 solenoids, filter, gasket, and tranny fluid was $290.00.
I ran in to a similar issue just recently when I was trying to get some new to me brake calipers rebuilt. Every shop I called was just like "we don't rebuild them but we'll replace them for you" 🤦♂
The parts cannon seems to be the common tool of the vast majority of mechanics, these days. Just make sure they are using genuine parts, should you go their root, since many might try using the cheap parts and charge for genuine.
I tried to repair an automatic gearbox on a nissan pathfinder. Sorted a broken solid track in wiring but could only get 2nd hand solenoids. Worked great for a short while before a catastrophic failure.
The trans has a CIRCUIT fault. Basicly, the transmission computer found an open circuit for the shift solenoid and that could be anywhere in that circuit (including the wiring, connectors or the solenoid itself). Since it may not always be the solenoid, I would look into troubleshooting this a little further. If the transmission computer is inside the trans, there may be a conductor plate (which is a rigid wiring harness for all the electrical components within). Good Luck, Sam!
These are ZF transmissions like the the rest of the European cars. They are like the Delco or Mopar of Europe. We even use them in Dodge vehicles.(owned by Daimler-Benz.) I hate working on Euro.Wiring because it is so bad. But this is your best bet except for swapping cheap imported parts. Good luck, Sam.
Go for the cheap ones. If it fixes it, then you know what the problem is. Then you can keep it in the back of your mind that one day you might need to buy the OEM ones. Or check the resistance of all of them and just replace the one which is out of spec.
And this car with it's investment is the best test object for such useful things. They won't destroy the transmission if they're crap they might just fail and have to be changed again.
this. and it also speaks to what @ecaparts talks about. circuit test the solenoid as close to the trans as possible. if it checks good you know you have bad wiring. if it checks bad, you at least not it's a solenoid... it could still be the wiring.
This is Scott from California. You can inspect and test each solenoid valve with an ommeter. You can apply 12 V to them and see if they operate. The transmission control module can be tested also by checking all the positive battery feeds and the negative feeds to the module. Don't buy stuff that you don't need! I know you know! I'm just trying to help. Don't pull the trigger on a parts cannon!
I’ve been through this repair on many ZF transmissions. The “reman” solenoids are just used units with new o-rings. I’ve tried them in a 6hp19 and they sucked, sent back and used brand new ZF solenoids and shifted smooth. Worth buying the real zf set, they aren’t that expensive. Also worth buying a Zip Kit and separator plate so you can replace the accumulator pistons and upgrade to springs instead of the rubber nub that flattens out in a few years. It will shift significantly nicer with the gear accumulator springs replaced. Every 100k+ ZF6HP or 150k+ ZF8HP that hasn’t been serviced will need this stuff replaced. Use lifeguard fluid or liquid moly fluid only in these trans. They are very picky. Good luck!
It’s a shot here, but do you know anyone who specializes in zf and might be able to get me some parts for an 05 zf6 that gm no longer makes? Need some under cabin linkage and would like a new trans-tcase housing on the trans as it is repaired.
The problem with the cheap ones is that if it doesn't work after replacing them you always wonder if it is the transmission that is bad or if the refurbished solenoids are just crap and didn't work correctly to begin with... Edit: And if you decide to buy a "new" transmission after that you might've wasted all that money because the old transmission was OK.
@@Samcrac I would rather look at it from a different perspective. I would put the cheap ones and see if it works and there are no other hidden issues. If it does, then maybe put the proper ones. You have double work of course, but might be saving money.
I had a very similar thing happen to mine… after 188K “relatively” trouble free miles - it started to slam gears then would not go into 3rd (but would manually jump to 4th). I was going to do a whole valve assembly swap ($1,200-$1,700 for the whole bottom tray) then learned that bunches of re-programming would be involved (dealer only). Let it sit for 6 months, now the passenger door won’t open, and after replacing the battery - it will not start, I don’t even hear the solenoid click. So I bought a 4Runner 😂. Still love my RR!
As entertaining as it is to point and laugh, the most impressive thing here is Sam has any hope left for the brand! No matter how many times life kicks him in the nonos, he always gets right back up every time to try again. Truly inspiring Sam and definitely keep it up!
Pretty common issue on those ZF trans and not a terrible job. ZF does recommend changing the fluid at 100k miles. Those 4.4 Jag engines are the best Engine LR ever used I’d fix it, but I’m also a sucker for lost causes.
I had the valve body repaired on my 05 LR3 with the 4.4. Great engine, my symptom was clunking between gear shift. Tried the fluid/filter swap but a no go. After the valve body job it’s been solid for 50k so far. Other than coil and plugs, and several other minor mechanical issues you can expect with a 200k plus SUV it’s been a solid ride. Can’t wait to see you handle the job!
I would have put the 300 dollar solenoid for the way the car looks like its been upkept I think its worth it plus the purchase was only 700 bucks its already a steal without a blown headgasket
Go for the cheap ones because like you said, there might be other issues with the trans. You can always upgrade them in the future, or if you flip it, then its not your problem!
I'd spend the 300 bucks, but only if i could confirm that this is indeed the problem. Having this Range Rover in good, running order for a bag of sand (a grand) is well worth it and if it works, you won't have to rip it apart again because you fitted cheap chineseum parts. I'd call that a win-win.
If it were in worse condition, i'd go with the cheap ones. But with this one, which seems to have been taken care of, i'd go with the OEM ones. Some cleaning and a bit of luck, this will make someone a nice vehicle.
Hi Sam. I would go for the cheap option since you are not sure if that would actually fix your problem. If it does then drive it till the cheap ones give up and then go for the more expensive option. Love your videos.
@@ianbeale2527 I think that's sort of the spirit of the channel though, right? Buy cheap, then get it back on the road with tinfoil and steel wire if necessary. Makes for good youtube :). But I did have the same hesitation as @jerehada - you don't know what you're getting from China, especially "refurb", although bench testing the solenoids bought from China is easily part of a good/fun video to watch! I'm kinda surprised he didn't pull out the existing ones to bench test first tho tbh.
@@RuggeroSB Yeah, Samcrac should bench test the original solenoids first. Also gives him more content to show.... :-) Or else he is just throwing parts at a problem while being blindfolded ;-)
@@RuggeroSB No, I get that from a content perspective I'm just looking at it from a personal view. As a kid, I always used to buy the cheapest parts I could to keep my Land Rovers going. I was always having to make repairs in my spare time to keep me on the road. Apart from a false economy, replacing cheap parts over and over, at least it taught me how to work on my cars , 🤣so what I lost in bad components and cash, I gained in knowledge and saved in garage labour costs. Well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it !
I would remove the valve body first and air check the clutches through the fluid passages that the valve body connect to with compressed air. If all clutches air check normally, you’d be safe to continue with the cheap solenoid replacement. Can’t hurt 🤷🏼♂️
I think you can't lose. I would choose the cheap fix using cheap parts and not use brand new oem ones. I fixed a 2006 Mustang transmission with a cheap remanufactured valvebody and solenoid pack. Works great. Save your money for other projects and either keep this one when you fix it or sell it for a ton of profit.
I bought a full size supercharged Range Rover new in '06. I had it until 2020. 275,000 miles. Not too bad on mechanical issues. 4 air suspension bags failed (always the front). 2 radiators, one alternator and one starter. The transmission would shift loudly sometimes. I'd replace the fluid and it would go back to smooth shifting.
Take out all of them, put power to each one and find the defective one, then test if it's burned out (shorted) or just stuck and fixable (have some sort of resistance, though i have no clue what the ohm should be, but it should match the others resistance). Solenoids in general is a super simple device and something you should be able to fix without paying for a new one.
I have the ZF 8 speed transmission and I changed the fluid and pan at 70,000 miles. Soon after, my 2 to 3 shifts were very hard. Unusual for this transmission, well apparently it was covered under my extended warranty. They said they replaced the entire valve body. It has been fine ever since and it now has 130,000 miles
I did Chinese solenoids twice then two new ones. The time it took to drain and refill 3 times, all the gaskets and screws, I wish it bought new solenoids. But for the budget, if I had no money I would have done it the same way
@@SamcracI replaced the solenoids in my RR with the zf 6hp26. While researching it I found a few people who said they had problems with the Chinese ones. Also, they take expensive oil so you don’t want to be dropping it multiple times. Before spending on a set of new ones from ZF you can pull the old ones and bench test them, you check the ohms and vacuum test them. Also clean out the passages where they go in the valve body, there’s pistons in some of them that can get stuck too. But it could just be a broken seal between valve body and transmission, the square ones can split and the hose type ones seem to shrink over time. There’s some good videos on RUclips showing how to rebuild the whole valve body which I followed and made it drive like new. Saved myself thousands.
The issue is that they clone the parts by taking measurements and then replicating it, but they almost never factor in the shrinkage from curing as they are in a hurry. So all of these cheap parts are slightly out of spec my a tenth of a mm in every dimension. Usually that's not a problem for something like an alternator or water pump. But for solenoids, a huge headache awaits.
I bought 'new' solenoids from china for a nissan. Couldn't get anywhere else. Both times they were full of dirty fluid and damaged. I assume they were used and just fitted with new seals. I also had to buy a set for a CVT just to get the one I needed for an automatic.
Sam Check the fuse box , I had a similar issue on my 2007 Jaguar XK which uses the same 4.2 v8. I had been swapping around fuses to fix an electrical fault and a similar issue occurred to me, it wouldn't shift . Turns out I had forgotten to put a fuse back in and replacing it fixed it immediately. This powertrain is incredibly reliable, just make sure to change the trans fluid once in a while.
I had a Jeep GC that, according to the dealer, needed a new transmission. Based on the error codes, I first replaced the shift solenoid ($150) that didn't fix it. I then replaced the shift solenoid sensor ($150), that fixed it.
Funny story! A friend had an older Jaguar 4 door, not sure of the year. The outside door handle was always messing up and would randomly not open the door. She would use the keyfob... double press the unlock button and on the 2nd press, hold it down. The windows would do the "global down" and she could reach in and open the door with the inside handle.
I guess it depends how difficult it is to replace the solenoids. If it's easy, go for the cheap set. See if it works. Might get lucky. If it is difficult, then you will kick yourself if the cheap ones don't fix it. You won't know for sure unless you install the proper parts.
Read a decent amount of these comments, the majority (armchair quarterbacks) are saying go with the cheap solenoids, then I read the comments from people who actually have EXPERIENCE with this situation and they are saying do NOT go with the cheap ones, Sam if I were you I'd listen to the voices of experience in your comment section here! Good luck! I hope you finally hit a jackpot with your Rover woes, you're due for one.
Those 2006-2009 range rovers are amazing. Not too difficult to maintain and very reliable. Mine had 210k and ran and drove amazing. A lot of RUclipsrs show the older 03-05 and the newer 2010-2012 ones which are much much more unreliable and expensive to keep going. Glad you showed off this model of Range Rover as its very overlooked by everyone.
If it were my car, i’d go the route of replacing the solenoids with OEM new, new fluid and filter, and see where it gets you. If it shifts but still feels a bit funny, I would then try another fluid drain and fill. Beyond that, is it worth putting a $2,500 trans in it? Probably, but only if you are able to do it yourself/with some buddies, and assuming that all of your other digging around on it shows no other major issues. 100% just my opinion though! It looks very clean body wise, has nice options on the inside, and you’re right, they really are built well.
You really should find which solenoid is faulty before you play parts darts, then only buy OEM (you'll be guaranteed that they will work), but it may be the wiring harness or the gearbox ECU which is why you need to test to pinpoint the fault.
the mind set of big shops/dealers, is that you have more insurance on the repair selling/ installing a new/reman unit, sure you can fix the valve body or whatever, but everything attached to that valve body is now your liability ,and if anything happens after that, the customer can and will assume it was the mechanics repair that caused this issue "the ever since" club , and as a result they will demand it be repaired for free. It's not worth the headache.
Uncle Sam, I just did one of these. Dont waste any time on the solenoids. Your clutches are burnt to a crisp. All friction material is gone and burnt fluid makes a good adhesive. As a result the solenoids are unable to actuate the clutch packs and therefore showing up as a solenoid stuck open/close depending on the default config. And now because your trans speed sensors do not match the override is leaving it in 3rd. You can fix this. The clutch pack is right up front (the top) and the issue will be obvious. The clutch baskets are easy to undo. This job requires long ridgid flat heads. Pry bars are good but they often require work at the tip so they can fit. Once the trans is off take a look before you buy a used tranny. Apart from removing the valve body to access the Trans, you wont have to touch the valve body. 3rd party rebuild kit is $200-300 and comes with all orings, seals, steels and frictions. You wont need them all. Video everything. Bearings and races will fall out and orientation is king. Awesome find. Good luck.
Hi Sam. THis happened to my Merc. After sitting in the garage for 6 months after l bought it, the transmission went into limp mode due to a failing main battery. Fitted a new battery and reset the transmission with a scanner and VOILA! All done.
Tpu in Atlanta provides a valve body service. I remove it and they rebuild, upgrade to latest OEM revision, and function check all solinoids. Five years ago it cost $75 plus any needed parts.
I bought a supercharged 4.2 version with the same issue. Turns out it was a transmission fault where the E drum had failed that's why it wouldn't shift above 3rd gear. Its a common issue with the zf6hp26 gearbox. You can air check the clutch packs with the valve body off to verify the fault. Just make sure before you start work that you can take the gearbox out where it is. Good luck! I bought new solenoids when doing the valve body, I didn't fancy having to take the gearbox sump off a second time due to faulty solenoids.
Nice Rover. If I was spending my money to fix it, I would by the rebuilt solenoids. If there is an underlying issue, you won't be throwing away extra money if the rebuilt soleoids are damaged as a result. Find the underlying issue and fix it before instaling new solenoids or even another rebuilt set.
If it is a ZF box (as many are), a pretty easy fix if you repair auto transmissions. They do suffer from shaft bush wear, but I missed if you mentioned how many miles it had on it. I would only put a brand new set of OEM solenoids in it but have used the reman chinese versions successfully and I would put a Sonnax zip kit in it as well if you can get one. This means you will need to split the mechatronic valve body and put in a new seperator gasket, but it is very worthwhile. You should see tiny flecks of copper (non-magnetic) in your oil if the bushes are gone. Durabond have bush sets, and the bush install tool sets are cheap. Gary Ferraro of AAA-1 on YT has done these boxes for your guidance.
I had a LR once. Very nice vehicles! Super dependable. We took a family vacation from North Texas way down south to the coast. Can you believe it only broke down twice?!! Once halfway there. And once while we were at our destination. The constant oil leaks kept the body and chassis lubricated! I loved my f¥@£!?$ LR!
Here in the UK there is a BIG problem with Range Rovers and Land Rovers Discovery being stolen in London into the hundreds per week, where as if you buy one now new or second hand the insurance company will not insure you (you have to have insurance in the UK). JLR are aware of this since March and are recalling the cars. The theives somehow log in to the transponder and make their own key then they are cut up as the money is in South Africa is in the running gear.
Definitely get the zf solenoids. If you have a problem with the cheap ones its going to be $400 just to open up the trans again, diagnose, new fluid, nevermind replacing anything.
Morning Sam! Wow what a sweet auction score! In the auction parking lot… was that black merc an S class? I saw a few other great projects as you were walking to the Rover Try the “re-manned” for $50. If its seller has a good reputation & review, I’m sure it’ll be fine. Have a great week!
In the late 80s Isuzu made a special edition Trooper that looked just like a Range Rover. It even had the Safari Sand Tan color like the ones you see on TV driving through the Jungle in Africa. I had one... it was a damn good off-road machine too.
Ive had a number of x350 Xjs with a similar engine. They dont leak, they dont normally cost much for the routine maintenance items, they have decent power and decent economy too considering. I have actually just bought a 06 range rover with the 4.4 jaguar engine since nearly all the other l322 engind choices have the potential to completely bankrupt you.
I recommend the same thing for every land rover: LS SWAP IT. It can be done dirt cheap, can program the correct vin, and will make that part of it bulletproof.
Range Rover's constant problem the gearbox although I had a 98 2.5 BMW turbo diesel, never had a problem with it & loved it to bits. What a workhorse it was, brilliant.
Get a whole valve body solenoid set. The aluminum valve bodies get worn by the harden steel valves. The valves are a friction fit with no seals. As they oval the bore the hot fluid pushes past the valve when it's not supposed too. Causing the fault in the computer.
Wow! RR's scare me but .... in this case I think I would go for the new OEM solenoids, truck mite actually have a few thousand more miles left in it till the next thing fails. What about ancillary equip? Brakes etc? Potential other "cost" items.
First make sure it's solenoid and not wiring/connection issue. Also having enough pictures of them will help to search for alternative - I'm sure there is something compatible under different brand.
Its so funny to be warry of good things on auction cars, haha. "Good oil? Not good" "Clean interior? Hmmm" "Starts and sounds good? Weird" Then there is, "Good A/C? Worth the price" 😂😅
Okay, so I lose sometimes when I buy Cheap Range Rovers, but I ALWAYS Win when I play War Thunder 💥 wtplay.link/samcrac - Download War Thunder for FREE and get your bonus!
Why don't you replace those air suspensions with the regular systems??
The definition of insanity...
heil
Just buy the cheap ones and test them out to make sure the tranny is good. If it works then get the OEM solenoids and put them on. You could easily clean up the truck and flip it for more than you spent if you don't want to keep it.
LOL, these things were POS when they were new.
I had a similar issue with my 2007 chevy silverado (it was also stuck in 3rd gear). I brought the truck to several places and ask them to replace the solenoids. Every single place I went to (7) said no. Most transmission shops don't want to touch a vehicle unless there is $2,500 or more involved! I even told a couple of places I would sign a waiver and they still said no.
I didn't want to do it myself because I don't have a lift and hate working on my back but I sucked it up and did it. This was 18 months ago and haven't had an issue since. Note: You technically just have to change 1 solenoid but change all 4 UNLESS you are flipping the vehicle. If that's the case then just replace the bad solenoid with a refurb or cheap knock-off.
My final bill for 4 solenoids, filter, gasket, and tranny fluid was $290.00.
I ran in to a similar issue just recently when I was trying to get some new to me brake calipers rebuilt. Every shop I called was just like "we don't rebuild them but we'll replace them for you" 🤦♂
The parts cannon seems to be the common tool of the vast majority of mechanics, these days. Just make sure they are using genuine parts, should you go their root, since many might try using the cheap parts and charge for genuine.
Good job sir
I tried to repair an automatic gearbox on a nissan pathfinder. Sorted a broken solid track in wiring but could only get 2nd hand solenoids. Worked great for a short while before a catastrophic failure.
Best post of the thread 👍👏👏👏
The trans has a CIRCUIT fault. Basicly, the transmission computer found an open circuit for the shift solenoid and that could be anywhere in that circuit (including the wiring, connectors or the solenoid itself). Since it may not always be the solenoid, I would look into troubleshooting this a little further. If the transmission computer is inside the trans, there may be a conductor plate (which is a rigid wiring harness for all the electrical components within). Good Luck, Sam!
These are ZF transmissions like the the rest of the European cars. They are like the Delco or Mopar of Europe. We even use them in Dodge vehicles.(owned by Daimler-Benz.) I hate working on Euro.Wiring because it is so bad. But this is your best bet except for swapping cheap imported parts. Good luck, Sam.
Go for the cheap ones. If it fixes it, then you know what the problem is. Then you can keep it in the back of your mind that one day you might need to buy the OEM ones. Or check the resistance of all of them and just replace the one which is out of spec.
And this car with it's investment is the best test object for such useful things.
They won't destroy the transmission if they're crap they might just fail and have to be changed again.
this. and it also speaks to what @ecaparts talks about.
circuit test the solenoid as close to the trans as possible. if it checks good you know you have bad wiring. if it checks bad, you at least not it's a solenoid... it could still be the wiring.
Plenty of space for cars in that field behind Sam’s house.
Yep just test the cheap ones and then upgrade or resell it
I don't know, if the Chineses ones suck you may think the gear box is the culprit even when it isn't.
This is Scott from California. You can inspect and test each solenoid valve with an ommeter. You can apply 12 V to them and see if they operate. The transmission control module can be tested also by checking all the positive battery feeds and the negative feeds to the module. Don't buy stuff that you don't need! I know you know! I'm just trying to help. Don't pull the trigger on a parts cannon!
Exactly!!
This love hate relationship with Land Rovers is killing you, Sam. Stop it, get some help.
It's never over with a Rover
Under or Over? (most won't get this Airplane! reference)
I’ve been through this repair on many ZF transmissions. The “reman” solenoids are just used units with new o-rings. I’ve tried them in a 6hp19 and they sucked, sent back and used brand new ZF solenoids and shifted smooth. Worth buying the real zf set, they aren’t that expensive. Also worth buying a Zip Kit and separator plate so you can replace the accumulator pistons and upgrade to springs instead of the rubber nub that flattens out in a few years. It will shift significantly nicer with the gear accumulator springs replaced. Every 100k+ ZF6HP or 150k+ ZF8HP that hasn’t been serviced will need this stuff replaced. Use lifeguard fluid or liquid moly fluid only in these trans. They are very picky. Good luck!
It’s a shot here, but do you know anyone who specializes in zf and might be able to get me some parts for an 05 zf6 that gm no longer makes? Need some under cabin linkage and would like a new trans-tcase housing on the trans as it is repaired.
I repaired my L322's 6hp26 with the ZIP kit and I couldn't be happier with the results, also replaced de VB bridge with an aluminum one.
What’s wrong with using Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle?
The problem with the cheap ones is that if it doesn't work after replacing them you always wonder if it is the transmission that is bad or if the refurbished solenoids are just crap and didn't work correctly to begin with...
Edit: And if you decide to buy a "new" transmission after that you might've wasted all that money because the old transmission was OK.
agree
@@Samcrac Why not bench test the original solenoids first before buying new ones?
Catch 22
@@Samcrac I would rather look at it from a different perspective. I would put the cheap ones and see if it works and there are no other hidden issues. If it does, then maybe put the proper ones. You have double work of course, but might be saving money.
testing a solonoid prior to installation isn't rocketscience...
I had a very similar thing happen to mine… after 188K “relatively” trouble free miles - it started to slam gears then would not go into 3rd (but would manually jump to 4th). I was going to do a whole valve assembly swap ($1,200-$1,700 for the whole bottom tray) then learned that bunches of re-programming would be involved (dealer only). Let it sit for 6 months, now the passenger door won’t open, and after replacing the battery - it will not start, I don’t even hear the solenoid click. So I bought a 4Runner 😂. Still love my RR!
They come down the assembly line with the check engine lite on
As entertaining as it is to point and laugh, the most impressive thing here is Sam has any hope left for the brand!
No matter how many times life kicks him in the nonos, he always gets right back up every time to try again. Truly inspiring Sam and definitely keep it up!
Or is it the definition of madness haha
@@Jerram89 It might be the same brand, but it's not the same thing because he keeps trying a different approach.
You need to test the solenoids individually and change the ones that are needed. If that fixes it change the whole set if you are keeping the Rover.
Pretty common issue on those ZF trans and not a terrible job. ZF does recommend changing the fluid at 100k miles. Those 4.4 Jag engines are the best Engine LR ever used I’d fix it, but I’m also a sucker for lost causes.
The 4.4 jaguar range rovers are pretty darn reliable. The ZF in them as well don’t generally leak either.
I had the valve body repaired on my 05 LR3 with the 4.4. Great engine, my symptom was clunking between gear shift. Tried the fluid/filter swap but a no go. After the valve body job it’s been solid for 50k so far. Other than coil and plugs, and several other minor mechanical issues you can expect with a 200k plus SUV it’s been a solid ride. Can’t wait to see you handle the job!
I would have put the 300 dollar solenoid for the way the car looks like its been upkept I think its worth it plus the purchase was only 700 bucks its already a steal without a blown headgasket
*...and if it blows you already know how to fix it for $300 lol.*
i’d use the cheap solenoids to see if it fixes the issue first
Go for the cheap ones because like you said, there might be other issues with the trans. You can always upgrade them in the future, or if you flip it, then its not your problem!
I'd spend the 300 bucks, but only if i could confirm that this is indeed the problem.
Having this Range Rover in good, running order for a bag of sand (a grand) is well worth it and if it works, you won't have to rip it apart again because you fitted cheap chineseum parts.
I'd call that a win-win.
shit, i'd say any running car under a grand is worth it even if it starts rodknocking 2 days later.
If it were in worse condition, i'd go with the cheap ones. But with this one, which seems to have been taken care of, i'd go with the OEM ones. Some cleaning and a bit of luck, this will make someone a nice vehicle.
Hi Sam. I would go for the cheap option since you are not sure if that would actually fix your problem. If it does then drive it till the cheap ones give up and then go for the more expensive option. Love your videos.
Unless cheap Ines don’t work 😜
So basically, buy cheap, buy twice.
@@ianbeale2527 I think that's sort of the spirit of the channel though, right? Buy cheap, then get it back on the road with tinfoil and steel wire if necessary. Makes for good youtube :). But I did have the same hesitation as @jerehada - you don't know what you're getting from China, especially "refurb", although bench testing the solenoids bought from China is easily part of a good/fun video to watch! I'm kinda surprised he didn't pull out the existing ones to bench test first tho tbh.
@@RuggeroSB Yeah, Samcrac should bench test the original solenoids first. Also gives him more content to show.... :-) Or else he is just throwing parts at a problem while being blindfolded ;-)
@@RuggeroSB No, I get that from a content perspective
I'm just looking at it from a personal view.
As a kid, I always used to buy the cheapest parts I could to keep my Land Rovers going. I was always having to make repairs in my spare time to keep me on the road. Apart from a false economy, replacing cheap parts over and over, at least it taught me how to work on my cars , 🤣so what I lost in bad components and cash, I gained in knowledge and saved in garage labour costs.
Well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it !
Sam, go with OEM. You should probably test the original solenoids to make sure that’s the problem.
I would remove the valve body first and air check the clutches through the fluid passages that the valve body connect to with compressed air. If all clutches air check normally, you’d be safe to continue with the cheap solenoid replacement. Can’t hurt 🤷🏼♂️
I think you can't lose. I would choose the cheap fix using cheap parts and not use brand new oem ones. I fixed a 2006 Mustang transmission with a cheap remanufactured valvebody and solenoid pack. Works great. Save your money for other projects and either keep this one when you fix it or sell it for a ton of profit.
I know it is hard to believe, but it seems like Sam finally found a good deal on a Rover!
All it took was a low enough price
If only actual Rovers had been sold in the US. They only got a few Stirlings, and the 75 never reached US shores at all...
clickbait video
It’s not a rover
I bought a full size supercharged Range Rover new in '06. I had it until 2020. 275,000 miles. Not too bad on mechanical issues. 4 air suspension bags failed (always the front). 2 radiators, one alternator and one starter. The transmission would shift loudly sometimes. I'd replace the fluid and it would go back to smooth shifting.
Take out all of them, put power to each one and find the defective one, then test if it's burned out (shorted) or just stuck and fixable (have some sort of resistance, though i have no clue what the ohm should be, but it should match the others resistance). Solenoids in general is a super simple device and something you should be able to fix without paying for a new one.
Awesome as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
I'd take out the solenoids and bench test them, maybe they're gummed up and you can fix them
Since you like these Range Rovers so much, why not considering a LS swap? You could finally have a RR that you could use as daily.
The title of that video would be "spending $7,000 to improve my $700 Range Rover"
@@Samcracyeah...and?!?
MAKE IT HAPPEN!!!
yeah ls swap everything it'll make having it easier dumbass
@@Samcrac But wouldn't be surprise with the LS swap it would devalue less too.
Classic LS Swap guy
I have the ZF 8 speed transmission and I changed the fluid and pan at 70,000 miles. Soon after, my 2 to 3 shifts were very hard. Unusual for this transmission, well apparently it was covered under my extended warranty. They said they replaced the entire valve body. It has been fine ever since and it now has 130,000 miles
Very interested to see where this goes. I had the same issue with mine. Good luck Sam so glad you have a proper non-supercharged L322!
The coolant checker is coming out again for sure! Here's hoping for no green ;)
.... color me surprised
I did Chinese solenoids twice then two new ones. The time it took to drain and refill 3 times, all the gaskets and screws, I wish it bought new solenoids. But for the budget, if I had no money I would have done it the same way
I'm glad to have heard from someone whos attempted it with the ones from China!
@@SamcracI replaced the solenoids in my RR with the zf 6hp26. While researching it I found a few people who said they had problems with the Chinese ones. Also, they take expensive oil so you don’t want to be dropping it multiple times. Before spending on a set of new ones from ZF you can pull the old ones and bench test them, you check the ohms and vacuum test them. Also clean out the passages where they go in the valve body, there’s pistons in some of them that can get stuck too. But it could just be a broken seal between valve body and transmission, the square ones can split and the hose type ones seem to shrink over time. There’s some good videos on RUclips showing how to rebuild the whole valve body which I followed and made it drive like new. Saved myself thousands.
@@Samcracyou bought this one at copart? Or from a new auction place?
The issue is that they clone the parts by taking measurements and then replicating it, but they almost never factor in the shrinkage from curing as they are in a hurry. So all of these cheap parts are slightly out of spec my a tenth of a mm in every dimension. Usually that's not a problem for something like an alternator or water pump. But for solenoids, a huge headache awaits.
I bought 'new' solenoids from china for a nissan. Couldn't get anywhere else. Both times they were full of dirty fluid and damaged. I assume they were used and just fitted with new seals. I also had to buy a set for a CVT just to get the one I needed for an automatic.
Hi ya Sam I always get literally excited when you post your videos. Thanks 😊
Sam Check the fuse box , I had a similar issue on my 2007 Jaguar XK which uses the same 4.2 v8. I had been swapping around fuses to fix an electrical fault and a similar issue occurred to me, it wouldn't shift . Turns out I had forgotten to put a fuse back in and replacing it fixed it immediately. This powertrain is incredibly reliable, just make sure to change the trans fluid once in a while.
If I were going to th trouble of dropping the trans pan and replacing fluid, 300 for the valves is not so bad.
Samcrac buying range rovers over and over reminds me of the girl that keeps going back to her abusive boyfriend.
I had a Jeep GC that, according to the dealer, needed a new transmission. Based on the error codes, I first replaced the shift solenoid ($150) that didn't fix it. I then replaced the shift solenoid sensor ($150), that fixed it.
Funny story! A friend had an older Jaguar 4 door, not sure of the year. The outside door handle was always messing up and would randomly not open the door. She would use the keyfob... double press the unlock button and on the 2nd press, hold it down. The windows would do the "global down" and she could reach in and open the door with the inside handle.
Time to bring out the block tester again…
I guess it depends how difficult it is to replace the solenoids. If it's easy, go for the cheap set. See if it works. Might get lucky. If it is difficult, then you will kick yourself if the cheap ones don't fix it. You won't know for sure unless you install the proper parts.
Read a decent amount of these comments, the majority (armchair quarterbacks) are saying go with the cheap solenoids, then I read the comments from people who actually have EXPERIENCE with this situation and they are saying do NOT go with the cheap ones, Sam if I were you I'd listen to the voices of experience in your comment section here! Good luck! I hope you finally hit a jackpot with your Rover woes, you're due for one.
Those 2006-2009 range rovers are amazing. Not too difficult to maintain and very reliable. Mine had 210k and ran and drove amazing. A lot of RUclipsrs show the older 03-05 and the newer 2010-2012 ones which are much much more unreliable and expensive to keep going. Glad you showed off this model of Range Rover as its very overlooked by everyone.
If it were my car, i’d go the route of replacing the solenoids with OEM new, new fluid and filter, and see where it gets you. If it shifts but still feels a bit funny, I would then try another fluid drain and fill. Beyond that, is it worth putting a $2,500 trans in it? Probably, but only if you are able to do it yourself/with some buddies, and assuming that all of your other digging around on it shows no other major issues. 100% just my opinion though! It looks very clean body wise, has nice options on the inside, and you’re right, they really are built well.
You really should find which solenoid is faulty before you play parts darts, then only buy OEM (you'll be guaranteed that they will work), but it may be the wiring harness or the gearbox ECU which is why you need to test to pinpoint the fault.
You sure are good at this. Well done.
I wanna see your step mom more!😅
Another Range Rover… oh no
Exactly…😅
Try the cheap ones and see how it works then. Can’t wait to see the update!
the mind set of big shops/dealers, is that you have more insurance on the repair selling/ installing a new/reman unit, sure you can fix the valve body or whatever, but everything attached to that valve body is now your liability ,and if anything happens after that, the customer can and will assume it was the mechanics repair that caused this issue "the ever since" club , and as a result they will demand it be repaired for free. It's not worth the headache.
Samcrac fixing a RangeRover is the most Samcrackiest thing ever 😅
Uncle Sam,
I just did one of these. Dont waste any time on the solenoids. Your clutches are burnt to a crisp. All friction material is gone and burnt fluid makes a good adhesive. As a result the solenoids are unable to actuate the clutch packs and therefore showing up as a solenoid stuck open/close depending on the default config. And now because your trans speed sensors do not match the override is leaving it in 3rd.
You can fix this. The clutch pack is right up front (the top) and the issue will be obvious. The clutch baskets are easy to undo. This job requires long ridgid flat heads. Pry bars are good but they often require work at the tip so they can fit.
Once the trans is off take a look before you buy a used tranny. Apart from removing the valve body to access the Trans, you wont have to touch the valve body.
3rd party rebuild kit is $200-300 and comes with all orings, seals, steels and frictions. You wont need them all.
Video everything. Bearings and races will fall out and orientation is king.
Awesome find. Good luck.
💯
That video part is especially important
Hi Sam. THis happened to my Merc. After sitting in the garage for 6 months after l bought it, the transmission went into limp mode due to a failing main battery.
Fitted a new battery and reset the transmission with a scanner and VOILA! All done.
Tpu in Atlanta provides a valve body service. I remove it and they rebuild, upgrade to latest OEM revision, and function check all solinoids. Five years ago it cost $75 plus any needed parts.
Holy cow, is that undercarriage clean!! Way to go Sam. Hope it works out for you!
Not a bad deal
Not quite sure yet. BTW that part for that car I wanted to show you is on its way so I'll be over soon
👍
I bought a supercharged 4.2 version with the same issue.
Turns out it was a transmission fault where the E drum had failed that's why it wouldn't shift above 3rd gear. Its a common issue with the zf6hp26 gearbox.
You can air check the clutch packs with the valve body off to verify the fault.
Just make sure before you start work that you can take the gearbox out where it is.
Good luck!
I bought new solenoids when doing the valve body, I didn't fancy having to take the gearbox sump off a second time due to faulty solenoids.
sometimes its just a chunk stuck in the valve itself, its just a matter of freeing up the piston an removing the little chunk
A cheap China part is probably better than the factory option.
Sometimes they are the same part lmao
I think you overpaid.
It seems like that was one of those very well loved vehicle. I’d roll with the cheap solenoids for testing and see how long they go before going.
This guy is a natural. A+
Nice Rover. If I was spending my money to fix it, I would by the rebuilt solenoids. If there is an underlying issue, you won't be throwing away extra money if the rebuilt soleoids are damaged as a result. Find the underlying issue and fix it before instaling new solenoids or even another rebuilt set.
If it is a ZF box (as many are), a pretty easy fix if you repair auto transmissions. They do suffer from shaft bush wear, but I missed if you mentioned how many miles it had on it. I would only put a brand new set of OEM solenoids in it but have used the reman chinese versions successfully and I would put a Sonnax zip kit in it as well if you can get one. This means you will need to split the mechatronic valve body and put in a new seperator gasket, but it is very worthwhile. You should see tiny flecks of copper (non-magnetic) in your oil if the bushes are gone. Durabond have bush sets, and the bush install tool sets are cheap. Gary Ferraro of AAA-1 on YT has done these boxes for your guidance.
I had a LR once. Very nice vehicles! Super dependable. We took a family vacation from North Texas way down south to the coast. Can you believe it only broke down twice?!! Once halfway there. And once while we were at our destination. The constant oil leaks kept the body and chassis lubricated! I loved my f¥@£!?$ LR!
Same thing I did with my BMW X5 I just replaced the solenoid and it shifted fine !🎉🎊🎉
Thanks for not using a power screwdriver for door panel removal. That proves you are a real mechanic .
Here in the UK there is a BIG problem with Range Rovers and Land Rovers Discovery being stolen in London into the hundreds per week, where as if you buy one now new or second hand the insurance company will not insure you (you have to have insurance in the UK). JLR are aware of this since March and are recalling the cars.
The theives somehow log in to the transponder and make their own key then they are cut up as the money is in South Africa is in the running gear.
11:00 "See there's no end there? Kinda like the repairs on a Range Rover." Heh heh
Need to do an adaption reset in trans. Go to Tcm, special function, then adaption reset. It should work. Worked on my 06 rover with same issue.
I have the same model and had the same issue. I just replaced the valve body from a breaker. Perfect
Definitely get the zf solenoids. If you have a problem with the cheap ones its going to be $400 just to open up the trans again, diagnose, new fluid, nevermind replacing anything.
Zf Zip kit. Its the preassure valve. Install that with new plate. And clean out the solenoids.
Had 2 L322 - Both with bad Transmissions. Changed the solenoids no luck. Put new transmission in myself, good to go
Morning Sam! Wow what a sweet auction score!
In the auction parking lot… was that black merc an S class? I saw a few other great projects as you were walking to the Rover
Try the “re-manned” for $50. If its seller has a good reputation & review, I’m sure it’ll be fine.
Have a great week!
Go with the oem solenoids, it seems like it might actually be worth it to invest a little bit into this Range.
In the late 80s Isuzu made a special edition Trooper that looked just like a Range Rover. It even had the Safari Sand Tan color like the ones you see on TV driving through the Jungle in Africa. I had one... it was a damn good off-road machine too.
I bought the cheap solenoids for my XK8 and have had no issues. Just make sure you get the right color coded solenoids.
Great video! I love my Defender and it’s been rock solid so far! I love Land Rover!
sometimes you can clean the solenoids with a batteri and som break cleaner ,if there are debris in them
Ive had a number of x350 Xjs with a similar engine. They dont leak, they dont normally cost much for the routine maintenance items, they have decent power and decent economy too considering. I have actually just bought a 06 range rover with the 4.4 jaguar engine since nearly all the other l322 engind choices have the potential to completely bankrupt you.
I would for sure go with the solenoids given you have a lift and tools and knowledge
The outro sound track hits hard with headphones, I was not expecting that shit 😂😂😂 16:43
I recommend the same thing for every land rover: LS SWAP IT. It can be done dirt cheap, can program the correct vin, and will make that part of it bulletproof.
Nice, love the RR
On any labor intensive repair, I’ll always spring for the better parts!
Range Rover's constant problem the gearbox although I had a 98 2.5 BMW turbo diesel, never had a problem with it & loved it to bits. What a workhorse it was, brilliant.
Depends. If you want to keep or do a quick flip. Quick flip for 5k the cheap remanufactured ones so you can show it and sell it quick
Would suggest to replace the bridge and other seals, and the sealing sleeve since you'll have it open anyway. Kit is ~$50.
Get a whole valve body solenoid set. The aluminum valve bodies get worn by the harden steel valves. The valves are a friction fit with no seals. As they oval the bore the hot fluid pushes past the valve when it's not supposed too. Causing the fault in the computer.
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Hi Sam, great video as usual. I would vote for the better fix, spend the money the car should be worth it. I hope that fixes it. Good luck. 😀✌❤
Wow! RR's scare me but .... in this case I think I would go for the new OEM solenoids, truck mite actually have a few thousand more miles left in it till the next thing fails. What about ancillary equip? Brakes etc? Potential other "cost" items.
Depending on how difficult swapping the solenoids are I may give the cheap ones a shot.
I’d say risk it with the oem ones, if the fix works or not either way you can sell the truck and make your money back.
First make sure it's solenoid and not wiring/connection issue.
Also having enough pictures of them will help to search for alternative - I'm sure there is something compatible under different brand.
Its so funny to be warry of good things on auction cars, haha.
"Good oil? Not good"
"Clean interior? Hmmm"
"Starts and sounds good? Weird"
Then there is,
"Good A/C? Worth the price" 😂😅
The middle cycle of the L322 with the Jag 4.4 V8 was probably the least worst. These are amazing cars when they work
The clean pan has a different bolt pattern with them closer together.