I learned how to tune my DSP using an RTA and microphone by watching videos on RUclips like yours. The problem that I have is after I tune it and everything sum together the time alignment is done all the crossovers are adjusted correctly. Everything is tuned perfectly in my opinion it sounds or like it has no life or dull. The question I would ask is if people make final adjustments by ear after their tuning is finished. What is the point in tuning in the first place if you’re going to adjust it for what you like to hear by ear? I asked that question because everybody I watch says they tune it by the RTA and then make some minor adjustments by ear when they’re finished to it to their liking.
Adjustments by ear needed to fix mistakes that a microphone makes. Like reflections and L to R balance. A mic averages out, it's not the same as we hear. Adjustments by ear should be small and tactical. If you don't like how the system sounds, you need to identify what that is. The spectral balance or the imaging. Not everyone likes pin point accurate center. There are many different house curves to choose from.
Hello. how are you? Just a question: how you are using the mic to do the measurement this days? I am studying your paper about and i like to know what method you are using. Thanks for the content.
I thought you stopped doing these :D I'm using a MiniDSP with Dirac Live and the measurements after the tune is surprisingly not smooth. It's probably my error, and I'll try some pre-eq tuning first to see if I can get better results.
Hi, great video, but one request if you can accomodate. Can you please make video how did you achive such great results, like from start to end you took REW measurements, made correction and EQ?
Thanks for this informative video! When EQ’ing speakers separately and then L+R together I always get some cancellations and additions. And also when adding the subwoofer to the midbase measurement it creates a lot of impact in the frequency response. What is your strategy in these cases?
@@RAW-CAt Automatic or manual with the Helix DSP. I get the feeling that if you adjust the L+R channel separately too much to get a coherent response this can affect the summed result.
@@user-bp2nr5eu3j Auto TA does not give consistently good results at least for me. Try using a tape measure and adjust by ear afterwards. Don't look at rta.
I have a 6th order series bandpass in my CLS sedan. Ported at 27 and 50hz. Had to pull it -10db down at 50hz, but at least it's efficient at that frequency lol
Dont have anything that odd in my current car but ran anarchy 7s ported for midbass in a couple others. Theyre an xbl2 driver. Been wanting to try door mounted t-line out as well and may end up tearing everything out of my car and doing this soon. Been using focal flax drivers in my doors for midbass on the new car and considering getting another pair of them. They actually perform alright and play pretty low the doors just needed a ton of treatment to do it. Spent a lot of weekends over the last year getting rid of rattles then new ones start. Definitely not as easy as it was with the anarchy 7s in ported kick enclosures.
@@minus3dbintheteens60 You can get quite a bit of midbass out of them in the right setup. Ive got no problem playing down to 60 with them. Im not actually using them for mids got something else doing that.
Nah I just mean they just don't have a lot of bass, not bass heavy at all. Not like my Alpine DD's for example, they play down to 30hz flat, *with* a 200hz 6dB HPF!¡! They are bass heavy. But also, the Flax I had were the OG 2 way components with the solid phase plug, you give up a bit with the phase plug vs a dust cap. I passed up on the flax 3 ways because I thought that even with that dedicated bass driver it would be too weak, but I hadn't heard them personally. I'm not saying the flax can't play bass, just that it's certainly not their strength and I think their transparency in the midrange is worth the lightness in the lower octaves. I haven't heard of those 7s, but maybe try to hear some Alpine DD RTL170 or Morel Elate 6, of all the speakers I've used they have been at the top for bass output. Where I had to use a 200hz 24dB HPF on the DDs to keep them from jumping the gap, the Morel just need a 80hz 24dB + 125hz 6dB, but that's because I'm running about 500w RMS or 45v + per driver, I really lean on them. If you only ran like 40w RMS, the Morel probably wouldn't even need a HPF
@@minus3dbintheteens60 The can be. They arent doing sub bass but definitely get down in the midbass region just took a bit of work and eq. It does effect their midrange capabilities but luckily thats covered with some nice mids/widebands anyways. Though once Im done with the new sub box meant for sub bass Ill probably change things up front again. Kinda want the anarchys and their 12mm one way xmax back and been thinking about a door enclosure for them since theres just not enough room in the kicks
Output. It's not necessary for a pure SQ setup. But an SQL setup with the bottom end that this system has, you need mid bass that can keep up. It sounds like James is a bass head which means strong mid bass is need when cranking the subs.
This reminds me of Dale Fontanot's Thunderbird which had sealed enclosures in each front door with four Focal subs each. You can only roll the window down a couple of inches. Sometimes I think these sound off competitors go a little too far. Lol
I learned how to tune my DSP using an RTA and microphone by watching videos on RUclips like yours. The problem that I have is after I tune it and everything sum together the time alignment is done all the crossovers are adjusted correctly. Everything is tuned perfectly in my opinion it sounds or like it has no life or dull. The question I would ask is if people make final adjustments by ear after their tuning is finished. What is the point in tuning in the first place if you’re going to adjust it for what you like to hear by ear? I asked that question because everybody I watch says they tune it by the RTA and then make some minor adjustments by ear when they’re finished to it to their liking.
Adjustments by ear needed to fix mistakes that a microphone makes. Like reflections and L to R balance. A mic averages out, it's not the same as we hear. Adjustments by ear should be small and tactical. If you don't like how the system sounds, you need to identify what that is. The spectral balance or the imaging. Not everyone likes pin point accurate center. There are many different house curves to choose from.
Hello. how are you? Just a question: how you are using the mic to do the measurement this days? I am studying your paper about and i like to know what method you are using. Thanks for the content.
I to would like a video on Umik positioning setup and tips to get the best correct measurements in Rew
I use a moving microphone method. Just waving the microphone around my ears. I might make a video about that.
I thought you stopped doing these :D
I'm using a MiniDSP with Dirac Live and the measurements after the tune is surprisingly not smooth. It's probably my error, and I'll try some pre-eq tuning first to see if I can get better results.
Hi, great video, but one request if you can accomodate. Can you please make video how did you achive such great results, like from start to end you took REW measurements, made correction and EQ?
I made a series of videos last year:
ruclips.net/video/abCaEfhvCyg/видео.html
@@RAW-CAt thanks, will watch it....thanks for your response
Thanks for this informative video! When EQ’ing speakers separately and then L+R together I always get some cancellations and additions. And also when adding the subwoofer to the midbase measurement it creates a lot of impact in the frequency response.
What is your strategy in these cases?
That is timing issues. How do you time align the speakers?
@@RAW-CAt Automatic or manual with the Helix DSP. I get the feeling that if you adjust the L+R channel separately too much to get a coherent response this can affect the summed result.
@@user-bp2nr5eu3j Auto TA does not give consistently good results at least for me. Try using a tape measure and adjust by ear afterwards. Don't look at rta.
I had my 3inch mid on my dash as like you mention there’s a peak at 2k no matter how I cut it, it still exist. Not sure how should I do about it.
If the response does not react to EQ, it's something else. Like a physical resonance. Or the EQ is bypassed or something.
Hi, where are you based, if I wanted a tune on a helix dsp ultra 12 speaker active set up... Thank you
I am based in Manchester UK.
I have a 6th order series bandpass in my CLS sedan. Ported at 27 and 50hz. Had to pull it -10db down at 50hz, but at least it's efficient at that frequency lol
I wonder if his sub amp has a non defeatable ssf/hpf or is even capable of playing low. Kicker is known for a 25hz hpf
That is a good question, not sure about that🤔
Dont have anything that odd in my current car but ran anarchy 7s ported for midbass in a couple others. Theyre an xbl2 driver. Been wanting to try door mounted t-line out as well and may end up tearing everything out of my car and doing this soon. Been using focal flax drivers in my doors for midbass on the new car and considering getting another pair of them. They actually perform alright and play pretty low the doors just needed a ton of treatment to do it. Spent a lot of weekends over the last year getting rid of rattles then new ones start. Definitely not as easy as it was with the anarchy 7s in ported kick enclosures.
The flax mids are one of the very nicest I've heard 👌 weak in the bass but that's what you give up for a sweet midrange
@@minus3dbintheteens60 You can get quite a bit of midbass out of them in the right setup. Ive got no problem playing down to 60 with them. Im not actually using them for mids got something else doing that.
currently theyre playing even lower since Im not using a sub but this is temporary.
Nah I just mean they just don't have a lot of bass, not bass heavy at all. Not like my Alpine DD's for example, they play down to 30hz flat, *with* a 200hz 6dB HPF!¡! They are bass heavy. But also, the Flax I had were the OG 2 way components with the solid phase plug, you give up a bit with the phase plug vs a dust cap. I passed up on the flax 3 ways because I thought that even with that dedicated bass driver it would be too weak, but I hadn't heard them personally. I'm not saying the flax can't play bass, just that it's certainly not their strength and I think their transparency in the midrange is worth the lightness in the lower octaves.
I haven't heard of those 7s, but maybe try to hear some Alpine DD RTL170 or Morel Elate 6, of all the speakers I've used they have been at the top for bass output. Where I had to use a 200hz 24dB HPF on the DDs to keep them from jumping the gap, the Morel just need a 80hz 24dB + 125hz 6dB, but that's because I'm running about 500w RMS or 45v + per driver, I really lean on them. If you only ran like 40w RMS, the Morel probably wouldn't even need a HPF
@@minus3dbintheteens60 The can be. They arent doing sub bass but definitely get down in the midbass region just took a bit of work and eq. It does effect their midrange capabilities but luckily thats covered with some nice mids/widebands anyways.
Though once Im done with the new sub box meant for sub bass Ill probably change things up front again. Kinda want the anarchys and their 12mm one way xmax back and been thinking about a door enclosure for them since theres just not enough room in the kicks
Can u tell me what’s the point of having 4 midbass drivers ?
Output. It's not necessary for a pure SQ setup. But an SQL setup with the bottom end that this system has, you need mid bass that can keep up. It sounds like James is a bass head which means strong mid bass is need when cranking the subs.
4 midbass has more envelope than 2 .
This reminds me of Dale Fontanot's Thunderbird which had sealed enclosures in each front door with four Focal subs each. You can only roll the window down a couple of inches. Sometimes I think these sound off competitors go a little too far. Lol
😂