Dianne- I can never express my level of appreciation for your helpful tips. I learn so much from you and always look forward to notifications for your videos. Thank you!
I already watch all your videos and never comment but this time I have to so I can say thank you so much for your contribution to the art community sharing your super wise acknowledged information about painting. We all love you. Ruben
Dear Dianne I came across this tip and wondered if you could explain what the best mediums are for acrylics. Thanks so much for all your expert tips. Much appreciated.
Thank you Dianne. I always wondered what the difference was between Liquin and Linseed oil. I don't think we can purchase Gamlin products in the UK but Windsor and Newton have similar mediums. I am very grateful to you for this quick tip.
Thank you Diane for another great video. When I was working at a sign shop some 60 years ago (I was about 12 or 13) we used to dip our brushes in motor oil after cleaning them, then wipe off excess oil before storing. They stayed moist and ready to use almost indefinitely. It also prevented the accumulation of dry paint on the brushes' base. I wonder of this may be a good practice for paint brushes today.
Joe, it sounds feasible but maybe not practical since we want to make sure no contaminants get into our paint. My favorite method after each session is to soak my brushes in Murphy's Oil Soap, then rinse and reshape them. This keeps them in excellent condition for a long, long time and takes away any residue that might have collected in the brushes' base during the session.
Dianne, a very nice intro to mediums and their uses! I note that you did not discuss either standoil or maorger. But thanks for your selection of those you covered.
Hi Diane: I have a question “As a beginner, how do I know when a painting is finished? Do you have any tips on how to not over fuss a painting till it’s ruined?
My first suggestion is that as a beginner, you do lots of small studies that you don't intend to show. (These can be done on gessoed boards or even gesso paper.)Use these as practice sessions where you build confidence with your skills. This is like a person learning piano, practicing the "how to" of it before giving a concert. Make each practice session about one thing, not the whole process. This can go a long way towards your learning not to fuss until you ruin it. Second, as to when a painting is finished: you learn that with experience. The practice sessions can help with that, too. It means little to a beginner to say that a painting is finished when all the parts come together or when you feel happy with it. I'd say right now, just do the practice sessions and don't worry about trying to make an exhibitable painting.
That's one topic I've not yet had a request for. Oil paint, when handled properly, is not the hazard some folks make it out to be. It's binder is linseed oil which is derived from plants and no more hazardous than cooking oils. The refined mineral spirits we use for rinsing brushes does require occasional disposal and should be sent out with hazardous wastes. The mineral spirits evaporates from the paper towels we use, so they can be disposed with regular wastes. The caution there is to use an open container for immediately disposing of them and never pack that container. Allow them to remain loosely dispersed until pickup time. Those who use the more hazardous painting products should dispose of them according to hazard waste disposal protocols. See www.epa.gov/environmental-topics .
There are quite a bit of mediums in fact, as you rightly said. Sometimes you don't know which can be better for you. Only practice and experience, and personal taste too, will finally tell. For example stand oil or poppy seed oil? Apart from the density, they are both slow drier. I never used Poppy oil and will get it having watched your video. Currently I am quite happy with 50/50 Stand oil/Solvent as still remain relatively dense unlike 50/50 Linseed/Solvent, but may not be the only choice. I use a small plastic bottle those with cone shaped dispenser, and you can cut a small opening so it drips one/two drips at the time.
I wish I had this tutorial many years ago. Although I have learnt this my experimentation this was a the Complete tutorial on mediums. Thank you so much.
love your videos Dianne, have a question. If you use a medium, like liquin , do you have to use it on the entire painting to keep the finish even on the painting? Or will you get shiny and dull spots if you use mediums on just a few spots of the painting, as you did here for glazing?
Marie, you don't have to use Liquin on the entire painting. It is just a medium for speeding the drying process, so it's used in areas where you want to speed up the drying. Liquin dries to a more matt than shiny surface.
Thank you Dianne for this wonderful program. I'm new to oils, and for me the biggest challenge is to make sure that I'm painting from lean to fat. I start with Gamsol wash, then blocking with solvent free + paint, laying colours with paint +very little oil. What do I do for glazing? I love glazing and would like to apply many layers.
Tamara, there are several approaches to oil painting techniques. The two most different from each other are alla prima (the painting is done in one session, wet into wet) and glazing (layers of paint are built, one over another, wet on dry). Watch my quick tip on glazing to see if it answers your question. ruclips.net/video/ZRg7sz-amk4/видео.html
I love to use Gamlin's Solvent Free Medium, it is wonderful and safe to use, and it smells sweet, like the scent of blueberries! I was delighted to see your adorable cat! What is his or her name? I hope they become a regular feature of your videos!
Mystery McCarthy oh yes the Gamblins solvent free liquid is wonderful! Have you tried the gel? The GSF gel is also great, very convenient for the plein air palette.
If we don't use any medium when we are painting, could we use Liquin to glaze or at the last layer ? Is it ok for lean to fat principle ? Thank you for all you do for us.
Line, it will depend upon how thick your paint is. The fat over lean principle applies to when a painting is done in layers. Since oil oxidizes rather than evaporates, if a layer on top dries prior to layers underneath, there is a risk of the top layer cracking over time. So if your paint is really thick, it would be better to glaze with an oil rather than liquin.
Dear Dianne, what would be the best medium to use to get the oil paint to flow, but NOT to increase the transparency ? (Thanks for your generosity in sharing so much knowledge, by the way - greatly appreciated)
I address this question in Quick Tip 176: ruclips.net/video/iJ-UeoViass/видео.html . Let me add here it you add a tiny bit of linseed oil, you will not increase the transparency. Only when you thin it greatly will that happen.
A few years back I took a painting class where it was recommended to buy stand oil with no instruction on why we had to buy it. I've got the bottle but never used it. What is stand oil used for? Thanks Dianne.
Stand Oil is a thicker, slow-drying version of linseed oil made by heating linseed oil to about 300 degrees F. It helps brushstrokes smooth out and helps colors hold their gloss. It's a medium of choice, not of necessity.
My question is the same as Joani Stotler's. My teacher, as well as many books I've read, suggest blocking in with paint thinned with OMS (and my teacher dips his brush in the dirty brush cleaner!).
I was a bit vague on that in the Quick Tip. Yes, to use Gamsol or other refined solvents for those initial drawing and block-in stages is fine. I thin with Gamsol for initial planning. Because solvents destroy the adhesive quality of the paint, though, it should never be used for glazing or to thin final layers. THAT'S what I should have said.
Thank you for explaining. What about using water to thin acrylics? And, my ongoing questions, how long can you keep your paints out on the side of the palette without them drying?
Diane - thank you for all your help. When you say ‘linseed oil’ do you mean boiled linseed oil? When I first started painting I used the 1/3 oil, damar varnish and turpentine as a medium. I would like to get back to painting but there is so much I’ve forgotten!
Judy, not boiled linseed oil, but refined linseed oil. ' I bet if you start pushing a brush on canvas, you'll be amazed at what will come back...like riding a bike again after many years away from it.
This has been so helpful. I now understand the mediums often relate to oil and acrylic. I am learning watercolor and I live in California and the climate is dry. I often find my watercolor dries out very quickly. What medium do you suggest to help slow the drying of my watercolor palette ? Thank you for a wonderful tutorial.
Marie, back in the day, we added a bit of glycerin to the water to help keep the watercolors from drying too fast. Today, ox gall is used for that. Of course, a lot has to do with the technique you are using. If you're painting wet-in-wet, I suggest soaking the paper by submerging it in water for about half an hour or so before beginning.
Question. I have a load of old oil paintings on canvas which have ground to a halt and will never be completed. I'm thrifty so usually paint a different picture over the top of these paintings. Years ago I would put a layer of white acrylic gesso over the top of the oil paintings. More recently I've been painting in white oil paint which I leave to dry for 6 months prior to using. I'm happy with the irregular surface. Question; what would you suggest? Stretch new canvas, re prime over old paintings in gesso or re prime with white? Many thanks for your super talks and rock solid advice.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction As I thought, appreciate the issue. Almost seems arrogant to think of "posterity" however selling work its part of our job to try to make the things last. Many thanks.
Hi Dianne, thanks so much for this Quick Tip. I was wondering, you mentioned that Gamsol should never be added to the paint. I've always used it to thin the paint for the initial sketching and for the block-in part. What do you use in the initial stages? Thank you!
Joani, thanks for pointing that out. I was a bit vague on that in the Quick Tip. Yes, to use it for those initial drawing and block-in stages is fine. I, too, thin with Gamsol for initial planning.
Thank you Brandon so much for sharing how you deal with the fat on lean rule. It has been a kind of mystery for me how to ensure that the next paint layer is fatter. Do you use 50/50 thinner to oil ratio for your thinner/medium mix for blocking? Is Liquin fatter than the paint from the tube, or the 50/50 mix of oil and thinner?
I had a tube of titanium that was Very dry, having not been opened for a long while and I may have made a mistake.....I added Gamsol to the paint. Should I get rid of it or do you think I can add more paint then add linseed oil. Option be would be to take another batch of tube paint and just add the oil. What do you think? Also.....I used gel medium with paint applied with palette knife then proceeded to do do regular brush wool on top. I did not realize that this first layer was fat. So I did lean over fat. I can actually see the drying process happening before my eyes. I hope it will all turn out ok. All a lesson for sure. Thank you for the thorough explanation of mediums.
Candace, the paint technology has come a long way since the fat over lean principle was first put into place. Only time will tell whether the newer mediums will withstand not paying attention to that. One thing I would be careful about is using a solvent to thin subsequent layers of paint because the solvent weakens the integrity of the paint. I wouldn't advise using solvent to thin paint that is become too stiff in the tube because of that.
Fat over lean. The rule still applies: the outermost layers should contain a higher percentage of oil than the first layers that were painted, progressively.
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Dianne- I can never express my level of appreciation for your helpful tips. I learn so much from you and always look forward to notifications for your videos. Thank you!
😊
I already watch all your videos and never comment but this time I have to so I can say thank you so much for your contribution to the art community sharing your super wise acknowledged information about painting. We all love you. Ruben
😊
Dear Dianne I came across this tip and wondered if you could explain what the best mediums are for acrylics. Thanks so much for all your expert tips. Much appreciated.
That's one area in which I am not very knowledgeable. I think it is safe to trust the major brands such as Liquitex and Golden.
Such a valuable video! Very helpful and so clearly explained.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for great advice and explaining the meduims so well.
You are so welcome!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Your generosity is very appreciated! 🙏🏼😇💕
My pleasure.
What an essential video ! Thank you 🌸
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Very useful information and to remember to see for fresh air in the studio!
✔️
Thank you Dianne. I always wondered what the difference was between Liquin and Linseed oil. I don't think we can purchase Gamlin products in the UK but Windsor and Newton have similar mediums. I am very grateful to you for this quick tip.
My pleasure.
Lucky to have you here 🙏👏👌🎨✌️🌎👩🎨
Thanks.
Thank you Dianne ! I love your tips !
Thanks for watching.
Great teaching! Thank you Dianne so much, I love your tips... 😘
Thanks, Norma.
You're such a good teacher.
Thanks. 😊
thank you for this extremely informational video. It has helped me understand mediums - finally!
That's music to my ears. Thanks for watching.
Thank you Diane for another great video. When I was working at a sign shop some 60 years ago (I was about 12 or 13) we used to dip our brushes in motor oil after cleaning them, then wipe off excess oil before storing. They stayed moist and ready to use almost indefinitely. It also prevented the accumulation of dry paint on the brushes' base. I wonder of this may be a good practice for paint brushes today.
Joe, it sounds feasible but maybe not practical since we want to make sure no contaminants get into our paint. My favorite method after each session is to soak my brushes in Murphy's Oil Soap, then rinse and reshape them. This keeps them in excellent condition for a long, long time and takes away any residue that might have collected in the brushes' base during the session.
Dianne, a very nice intro to mediums and their uses! I note that you did not discuss either standoil or maorger. But thanks for your selection of those you covered.
Right, Comer. There at so many that I chose to talk about the most common ones. That's why I advised going to the catalogues and websites for info.
Thanks Dianne,As always the tip is very helpful, I start to use liquin and it’s very good.
My pleasure.
Thankyou, such an informative video!
You are so welcome!
Hi Diane: I have a question “As a beginner, how do I know when a painting is finished? Do you have any tips on how to not over fuss a painting till it’s ruined?
My first suggestion is that as a beginner, you do lots of small studies that you don't intend to show. (These can be done on gessoed boards or even gesso paper.)Use these as practice sessions where you build confidence with your skills. This is like a person learning piano, practicing the "how to" of it before giving a concert. Make each practice session about one thing, not the whole process. This can go a long way towards your learning not to fuss until you ruin it.
Second, as to when a painting is finished: you learn that with experience. The practice sessions can help with that, too. It means little to a beginner to say that a painting is finished when all the parts come together or when you feel happy with it. I'd say right now, just do the practice sessions and don't worry about trying to make an exhibitable painting.
Hello Dianne, Have you done a quick tip on hazardous waste products that we all use for oil painting?
That's one topic I've not yet had a request for. Oil paint, when handled properly, is not the hazard some folks make it out to be. It's binder is linseed oil which is derived from plants and no more hazardous than cooking oils. The refined mineral spirits we use for rinsing brushes does require occasional disposal and should be sent out with hazardous wastes. The mineral spirits evaporates from the paper towels we use, so they can be disposed with regular wastes. The caution there is to use an open container for immediately disposing of them and never pack that container. Allow them to remain loosely dispersed until pickup time.
Those who use the more hazardous painting products should dispose of them according to hazard waste disposal protocols. See www.epa.gov/environmental-topics .
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Thank you Dianne. I saw a link on a Facebook group that I follow, which I’ve forwarded to you. It rather scared me!
There are quite a bit of mediums in fact, as you rightly said. Sometimes you don't know which can be better for you. Only practice and experience, and personal taste too, will finally tell. For example stand oil or poppy seed oil? Apart from the density, they are both slow drier. I never used Poppy oil and will get it having watched your video. Currently I am quite happy with 50/50 Stand oil/Solvent as still remain relatively dense unlike 50/50 Linseed/Solvent, but may not be the only choice. I use a small plastic bottle those with cone shaped dispenser, and you can cut a small opening so it drips one/two drips at the time.
Thanks for sharing this.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Thanks to you!
I wish I had this tutorial many years ago. Although I have learnt this my experimentation this was a the Complete tutorial on mediums. Thank you so much.
My pleasure.
Thank you so much.
love your videos Dianne, have a question. If you use a medium, like liquin , do you have to use it on the entire painting to keep the finish even on the painting? Or will you get shiny and dull spots if you use mediums on just a few spots of the painting, as you did here for glazing?
Marie, you don't have to use Liquin on the entire painting. It is just a medium for speeding the drying process, so it's used in areas where you want to speed up the drying. Liquin dries to a more matt than shiny surface.
Thank you Dianne for this wonderful program. I'm new to oils, and for me the biggest challenge is to make sure that I'm painting from lean to fat. I start with Gamsol wash, then blocking with solvent free + paint, laying colours with paint +very little oil. What do I do for glazing? I love glazing and would like to apply many layers.
Tamara, there are several approaches to oil painting techniques. The two most different from each other are alla prima (the painting is done in one session, wet into wet) and glazing (layers of paint are built, one over another, wet on dry). Watch my quick tip on glazing to see if it answers your question. ruclips.net/video/ZRg7sz-amk4/видео.html
Thank you very much Dianne for sharing. I appreciate your generosity very much!
excellent video. very helpful.
Thanks!
I love to use Gamlin's Solvent Free Medium, it is wonderful and safe to use, and it smells sweet, like the scent of blueberries! I was delighted to see your adorable cat! What is his or her name? I hope they become a regular feature of your videos!
Her name is Lizzy. Her brother Charley is also a part of the family, but he likes to play outdoors while we are filming.
Mystery McCarthy oh yes the Gamblins solvent free liquid is wonderful! Have you tried the gel? The GSF gel is also great, very convenient for the plein air palette.
If we don't use any medium when we are painting, could we use Liquin to glaze or at the last layer ? Is it ok for lean to fat principle ? Thank you for all you do for us.
Line, it will depend upon how thick your paint is. The fat over lean principle applies to when a painting is done in layers. Since oil oxidizes rather than evaporates, if a layer on top dries prior to layers underneath, there is a risk of the top layer cracking over time. So if your paint is really thick, it would be better to glaze with an oil rather than liquin.
Dear Dianne, what would be the best medium to use to get the oil paint to flow, but NOT to increase the transparency ? (Thanks for your generosity in sharing so much knowledge, by the way - greatly appreciated)
I address this question in Quick Tip 176: ruclips.net/video/iJ-UeoViass/видео.html . Let me add here it you add a tiny bit of linseed oil, you will not increase the transparency. Only when you thin it greatly will that happen.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Many thanks
Thank you - very informative, you really know your stuff.
Another fine tip, Dianne. Thank you! The cat was a bonus, what's his or her name?
A few years back I took a painting class where it was recommended to buy stand oil with no instruction on why we had to buy it. I've got the bottle but never used it. What is stand oil used for? Thanks Dianne.
Stand Oil is a thicker, slow-drying version of linseed oil made by heating linseed oil to about 300 degrees F. It helps brushstrokes smooth out and helps colors hold their gloss. It's a medium of choice, not of necessity.
My question is the same as Joani Stotler's. My teacher, as well as many books I've read, suggest blocking in with paint thinned with OMS (and my teacher dips his brush in the dirty brush cleaner!).
I was a bit vague on that in the Quick Tip. Yes, to use Gamsol or other refined solvents for those initial drawing and block-in stages is fine. I thin with Gamsol for initial planning. Because solvents destroy the adhesive quality of the paint, though, it should never be used for glazing or to thin final layers. THAT'S what I should have said.
Thank you for explaining. What about using water to thin acrylics? And, my ongoing questions, how long can you keep your paints out on the side of the palette without them drying?
Water for acrylics serves the same purpose as solvents for oils.
Diane - thank you for all your help. When you say ‘linseed oil’ do you mean boiled linseed oil? When I first started painting I used the 1/3 oil, damar varnish and turpentine as a medium. I would like to get back to painting but there is so much I’ve forgotten!
Judy, not boiled linseed oil, but refined linseed oil. '
I bet if you start pushing a brush on canvas, you'll be amazed at what will come back...like riding a bike again after many years away from it.
This has been so helpful. I now understand the mediums often relate to oil and acrylic. I am learning watercolor and I live in California and the climate is dry. I often find my watercolor dries out very quickly. What medium do you suggest to help slow the drying of my watercolor palette ? Thank you for a wonderful tutorial.
Marie, back in the day, we added a bit of glycerin to the water to help keep the watercolors from drying too fast. Today, ox gall is used for that. Of course, a lot has to do with the technique you are using. If you're painting wet-in-wet, I suggest soaking the paper by submerging it in water for about half an hour or so before beginning.
Thank you so much Dianne! Hands down the best instruction I’ve come across. Do you have a patreon page?
We don't have a Patreon page, at least not yet. All our full length teach videos are at diannemize.com
Question. I have a load of old oil paintings on canvas which have ground to a halt and will never be completed. I'm thrifty so usually paint a different picture over the top of these paintings. Years ago I would put a layer of white acrylic gesso over the top of the oil paintings. More recently I've been painting in white oil paint which I leave to dry for 6 months prior to using. I'm happy with the irregular surface. Question; what would you suggest? Stretch new canvas, re prime over old paintings in gesso or re prime with white? Many thanks for your super talks and rock solid advice.
I advise stretching fresh canvases. Painting over old paintings can be iffy and result in cracking or other archival problems down the road.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction As I thought, appreciate the issue. Almost seems arrogant to think of "posterity" however selling work its part of our job to try to make the things last. Many thanks.
Hi Dianne, thanks so much for this Quick Tip. I was wondering, you mentioned that Gamsol should never be added to the paint. I've always used it to thin the paint for the initial sketching and for the block-in part. What do you use in the initial stages? Thank you!
Joani, thanks for pointing that out. I was a bit vague on that in the Quick Tip. Yes, to use it for those initial drawing and block-in stages is fine. I, too, thin with Gamsol for initial planning.
Thank you Brandon so much for sharing how you deal with the fat on lean rule. It has been a kind of mystery for me how to ensure that the next paint layer is fatter. Do you use 50/50 thinner to oil ratio for your thinner/medium mix for blocking? Is Liquin fatter than the paint from the tube, or the 50/50 mix of oil and thinner?
I had a tube of titanium that was Very dry, having not been opened for a long while and I may have made a mistake.....I added Gamsol to the paint. Should I get rid of it or do you think I can add more paint then add linseed oil. Option be would be to take another batch of tube paint and just add the oil. What do you think? Also.....I used gel medium with paint applied with palette knife then proceeded to do do regular brush wool on top. I did not realize that this first layer was fat. So I did lean over fat. I can actually see the drying process happening before my eyes. I hope it will all turn out ok. All a lesson for sure. Thank you for the thorough explanation of mediums.
Candace, the paint technology has come a long way since the fat over lean principle was first put into place. Only time will tell whether the newer mediums will withstand not paying attention to that. One thing I would be careful about is using a solvent to thin subsequent layers of paint because the solvent weakens the integrity of the paint. I wouldn't advise using solvent to thin paint that is become too stiff in the tube because of that.
Thank you!!!! What about graso sobre magro with mediums?
Fat over lean. The rule still applies: the outermost layers should contain a higher percentage of oil than the first layers that were painted, progressively.
GREAT VIDEO
😊
What does linseed oil do?? Cause I just got new oil paints and they came with linseed oil...?
Linseed oil is the oil that binds the pigment in the paints. See Quick Tip 176 ruclips.net/video/iJ-UeoViass/видео.html
What about walnut oil, please?
Walnut oil is another slow drying medium. Some painters use it form cleaning their brushes.
Gracias
Thanks for watching, Jaime.
I'm disappointed that we didn't get to see the kitty. Seriously, thanks for all the info.
Ahhhhhhhh.
Kitty will not be upstaged!
I know. When she decides to make herself a part of the scene, she will.
She musta filmed all these videos in one day. Always wearing same shirt
😊