@@jennieanddavis Yeah, Jimmy has a good reason not to trust table saws, lol. Also, you need to stop standing behind the offcut on the table saw. If you get any kickback it's going to do a number on you.
You know, you're totally right, the Bandsaw is the superior tool and we are obsessed with the Table Saw, it's what we all learned on. Put it this way, I'm heavily restricted by the size of the blade if I want to resaw a board and often you have to flip the board, which leaves your cutoff board unsupported, it's a whole lot sketchier to resaw on a table saw than on the bandsaw, and here's an incidental that might not matter to some people, but the bandsaw is a lot quieter than the table saw too.
The bandsaw is a great tool. But I was surprised by the amount of internal stress you were finding in your stock. I had a similar issue until I equalized the humidity in my shop with the incoming stock. It was really a game changer when things were turned around in short timeframe.
A 3/16" kerf eats up 2.25 cubic inches of material every 1 ft. rip. That's one bf. every 64 linear ft. of ripping. For Cherry, that $8-9 loss/shrinkage, significant for small pieces, like cutting boards. Average bandsaw blade kerf is .025", 60% less than a thin kerf table saw blade. So, not only does the bandsaw save time, but also money.
I have the rikon bandsaw ! And I'm having issues making the fence perfectly square to the blade .. it seems when I am happy with it , because it has that adjustment feature , I believe it's also moving little bits at a time . Did you have issues at all like this ? I recently moved and sold my tablesaw . Kept my bandsaw very small workspace now . I now more than ever need my bandsaw to be precise as possible .
I did not know about the table saw blade myself. I do not have a band saw. I use the table saw to rip 1X1strip from 2X4s to make frames for my 27in flags. I will change the blade today. Thanks..
That's good to know guys as I have been putting off getting a table saw for ages ( due to expense and lack of room in my 8 x 8 workshop. I use only a thickener, router, skill saw and It kind of works for me.
One thing I did now see him talk about: one from a recent upload he admitted that he had a lower quality blade WHILE the band saw has a high quality blade Two, what is the HP/ RPM of the table saw compared to the bandsaw. That can make a huge difference. Third the quality of the tool itself needs to be taken into effect. If the table saw is old and kind of junk and the bandsaw is new and tuned, then of course the bandsaw will win. Ultimately you use what works best. Right now the band saw works best, but if/when they get a professional shop, if they put a 3 HP 220 volt Professional cabinet saw in there with an excellent blade, I am pretty sure that will win out.
Michael, this is a great example of what I meant when I said that sometimes we “talk past each other”. I addressed several of those things in the videos leading up to this one - we can’t repeat ourselves 5,000 times in every video. We’ll try to be more clear in the future, but it’s a tough balance to strike. Also, our friend in the Stud Stack repeated this test with his 5hp table saw and a rip blade - his bandsaw was faster also 🙌🏼.
@@jennieanddavis I apologize that I did not watch all the videos leading up to this one. Also, did the person from the stud stack put out a RUclips video on it? I would love to see it.
I cut alot of wood thats been dried too quickly and the stress causes pinching. I either kill the saw, remove the piece and cut again which helps kerf stay open or have a helper insert a wood wedge once past the blade to keep the kerf open
Now I’m curious to see how fast I can cut 20 slats on my 4hp sliding table saw using my Fritz and Franz jig with my $700 diamond blade. Will try to make a video tomorrow. Will send you the link after. The hard maple slats, how wide do you cut them and how thick is it. 8/4?
I do all my small rips on a bandsaw. I use the table saw for cross cuts and larger rips. Band saw is the way to go, especially when cutting a lot of smaller pieces. Great job J&D!
I do not know what type of blade you are running in your table saw, but using a good Rip blade is world of difference if you are using a Combo blade. It might not outperform a bandsaw, but it reduces required HP significantly, it can also eliminate burning on heavier stock. It is worth the investment if you are doing a lot of ripping.
Very nice video showing advantage of the band saw! BTW, Less sawdust as well! For cutting boards to length, nothing beats a 12” radial arm saw! You can make a stop, set (11) 2x4’s on edge, clamp one end, and cut them to the exact same length with one pull of the saw. Over and over.
Would love to get a bandsaw but I just don't have the floorspace, so making my table saw do everything I can possibly throw at it! Love my table saw, and yes it's my first 4 digit tool purchase
A couple of questions, as a woodworking class we analyzed your first couple of videos on this project and we’re wondering if you have considered a power feeder to optimize the repeatable cuts. Have you all considered or compared the variety of buying 3S or 2 sides planed and 1 side jointed material? Finally I think it would be fun and interesting to see you all make a video on how you would use a work force of people to creat cutting boards at scale while addressing the bottle necks of making so many. Have a good one, Nate
Hi Nate, yes a power feeder would probably help with both tools. Using pre-milled lumber reduces the size of our slats such that we end up using more material per board (7 slats instead of 6 per board). Chopping the rough boards into 18" blocks first drastically reduces the amount of waste in milling. We definitely plan to have a full assembly line with a team of 3 people working on a batch in our commercial space!
Great video's! I just need to understand, you are glueing the faces together and the rough cut ends are your top/bottom that get cleaned up with the planner? The cutting surface is your endgrain?
I was cutting hard maple on my miter and table saw using 40 tooth blades and it was real slow. I bought a Diablo "Pergo" 12 tooth blade. It cuts really easily and pretty clean cuts on both my miter saw and table saw. Not sure how long the blade will stay sharp.
Yes. I had a whole rant about that before I realized the time difference. The boards were wider on the band saw, but that's not really important to the overall results.
@@jennieanddavis actually the width of the boards used in the test would matter. Less reaching for another board, as often would effect the results in time. On a side note, longer boards would yield a better time result on a production stand point, because your not wasting time cutting them to length before ripping them down. Not that it matters. Each woodworker can just use what there comfortable with.
What bandsaw blades are you using for resaw? I managed to snag up a $20 14" bandsaw that only needed the wheel belt/tires replaced and blades. So, now I'm hunting as local options are non-existant.
Just to speak on the table saw, there has been wood that I have cut where it did the same thing (wood pinching on rival knife). Its the wood not the table saw. Sometimes the wood acts as a spring with cutting it, clamping on the rival knife. you could always remove the rival knife?
Band saw is extremely versatile, BUT so is the table saw! They each do different things well, with some overlap in between. Try building a crosscut sled for your bandsaw. Try cutting dados or tenons on a bandsaw. Try cutting larger sheet goods on a bandsaw. On the other hand, try resawing large pieces, or cutting curves on the table saw. One is not necessarily “better” than the other. They are both great tools that excel at certain things and not so much at others.
Great video. While I completely agree with your results and what you had to say I think the efficiency would also depend on how well tuned a persons bandsaw or table saw was. For example I have a semi older bandsaw for which I can’t find anything online about and even though I have it tuned up the best that I can seem to get it I still get some amount of drift so my table saw would be far more efficient because I would most likely have to deal with getting the cut surface from the bandsaw flat before the glue up.
That's funny. I just got a second band saw for my shop, and it was more expensive than my table saw. Once I set it up, I'll have to compare it to my table saw. Both are 3HP so it should be interesting.
It's an interesting debate for sure! I went for a CNC and Drum Sander in my garage shop and don't have space for a Band Saw now, but it's on the to do list for when I can upgrade to a commercial space.
I'm looking forward to a future video of your setup in the new shop (once you have the volume) to see a gang rip saw feed into a cut-off saw. 8-16ft boards being sliced into 18 inch strips in the blink of an eye. You'll look back on these videos with a smile to see how far you've come, with production speeds that are exponentially faster. Love your channel btw.
@@jennieanddavis Hope it's part of your 1 year plan, rather than the 10 year plan. And given the cost of the machines, a good amount of planning is needed. (i.e. talking to the machine companies who can recommend the best set-up for your needs).
The next question is can either one of them make a clean enough cut to eliminate the planner step, maybe if you took a couple seconds longer on each board and on both the tablesaw and bandsaw and see if you can get rid of that step all together, within reason
We could spend an hour trying to get 6 slats perfectly square, and they'd still slip and be uneven during glue-up. Planing or drum sanding is necessary
Thank you for the quick response! I knew it was a Rikon based on the color scheme, I guess I should have asked for model. I would like to get something nicer (than my bench top) but as a weekend warrior I have to justify beyond the annual pinewood derby car races! Thank you for your content and your enthusiasm! You guys are great!!
True, but at some point you have to collect what's on the outfeed table, which means walking around the tool. Maybe you 'break even' on time after 10-20 slats, but that's gonna be a really big outfeed table! Gotta do what we can in our little garage!
@@jennieanddavis what if you have them slide off the outfeed into a bin? As long as the fall is not too far then you could do dozens before swapping the bin for another... Maple bin then cherry bin and then move each of the bins to the next stage of processing. By the way I have been following now for qu I'm the a while and enjoy the fact that you are not just a "woodworking" channel. You have a very unique take on the genre and it keeps me (and likely others) interested! Great work!
Just FYI, loosen the 2 bolts holding the bandsaw fence to the rail and slide it out and lay it down 90°. You can then lower the blade guides and get even better cuts
@@jennieanddavis lol, yes it's a 3 position fence. You currently have it set up for resawing wide boards. When you turn it you can get closer to the blade for thin strips and the third position is a low clearance position for very thin stock
Been watching with interest. Don’t have a band saw yet, but I think you may have convinced me to get a band saw before I spring for a drum sander which was going to be my next purchase.
@@jennieanddavis about 6 one, half dozen the other truthfully. I have a good planer, but the drum sander I’m looking at will handle much wider boards. On the other hand a band saw would cost about 2/3 as much as the drum sander.
I'm curious as to your process, which maybe you address elsewhere. If I were making similar boards to what I think you do, with the strips gradually reducing in width, the cut edges would be glued together as I'd be cutting sequentially thinner strips. That would mean I'd need a glue-ready surface from each cut. My bandsaw is the Rikon 14-326, the very slightly newer version of yours, and even with a new blade it's never going to give glue-ready surfaces off the cut. My table saw does.
@@jennieanddavis are each of the strips the same width? I thought they reduced down in size. *disregard, I see now they are all consistent width. I had your design wrong 👍
I had the same thought that the band saw would be better. Great job with the testing and seeing it through and showing us the journey. How big a band saw is the one that you have?
I thought that you were gluing the edges that were being cut by the two saws in comparison. I would never glue the edge from the bandsaw, but with a good glue-line rip blade (such as a Frued) I would glue straight off of the blade. But you went with the box stores cheaper blade that vibrates and leaves chatter marks. So ya get what you pay for. Had my tablesaw for 30 years before I even bought a bandsaw. It is the main tool in the shop with many different sleds and jigs. Someday when you get more experienced, you'll realize that, but yes there are many ways to get the same products out the door.
Chuck, thanks for sharing your experience! We mentioned the orientation of the strips in the first video at about 4 minutes in. This is a great example of what I said about sometimes we "talk past each other". We'll try to be more clear in the future, but we can't repeat ourselves 5,000 times either - that's a constant struggle to balance as a video creator! Thanks for your continued support 🙏.
Just curious if you are using hard maple or soft maple. In my life soft maple has way more problems with internal stress and doesn't finish as well. Bill
You clearly are more experienced with a bandsaw so you can go faster than the table saw. I think for a large portion of woodworkers, there will be more table saw experience so it will be faster for them to use the table saw.
You mean like the last video when he was jamming the wood through -- I thought he was going to get it back in the gut. Definitely some things to learn.
the bandsaw is perticular about adjustments. as you found when your blade started getting dull. it wandered terribly. if the blade on the table saw gets dull you can still cut straight. it will just burn the wood mostly.anyhow, yes bandsaws are faster. most modern sawmills run bandsaws to break down the logs
Maybe I missed it but you didn't mention what kind of tablesaw blade you were using was it a thin kerf? You did take the time to find the right bandsaw blade but you just used whatever you had in the tablesaw Which looks like a freud industrial 24 tooth (Hopefully it wasn't the lesser Diablo). Either way what matters is how clean of an edge do they give you because the feed time can only be so fast anyways to be safe. In addition it seems like you always need to justify and prove to everybody that what you've decided to do is best so I am curious about why you feel the need to do that unless that's just part of what you want your videos to be about
I’m curious to know how the cost compares between the band saw and the table saw. I enjoyed this and I think the kerf thickness is a huge advantage for rip cuts that need to be efficient. Tables saw waste a lot of wood, meaning more dust, etc. 👍🏻
Looking at the early comments, some folks are mentioning the danger of possible kickback on the table saw. But with a bandsaw, you don't have that kind of issue. So +1 to bandsaws for another reason: SAFETY
I struggle getting a straight line on my band saw. I've always gotten reliably straight cuts on my table saw. Must be doing something wrong--would love to find a more efficient way to work
We struggled with straight cuts until we got a good, sharp blade. They go dull much quicker than you want them to. Also look up the Snodgrass method of tuning a bandsaw
I think bandsaw is sort of Better because it has a smaller kerf which requires less power than the wide kerf on the table saw so you get less waste with the bandsaw however bandsaw blade have to be replaced pretty often. And also the bandsaw is safer.
Simple physics, thinner blade = less binding (and less kerf), larger tool = more cuts per blade... It will win efficiency every time. Both have their place for sure, but in tasks where they overlap band saw wins.
Your Bandsaw only has a 1/2 hp motor where your table saw should have atlest 3hp, using a small motor to cut hard lumber will force your tool to work harder then intended and will burn your tool up quicker. Unless you have a blade with a low tooth count on a straight tooth cut design with atlest 1 3/4 hp bandsaw it’s best to stick with a table saw that has a 3hp motor with preferably a frued rip blade. Also never ever force a cut. Your riving knife is a safety feature that is designed to help stop your work piece from pinching against your fence and kicking back on you or worse popping your piece and causing your hand to fall into your blade.
so, the same amount of wood on each test, but you get three more boards worth of material just by using the bandsaw instead of the table saw?? Never mind the speed of the cuts, that is a WHOLE LOT of extra waste when using the table saw hey? Luckily i ordered my new band saw in June (coming in November). Can't wait to give it a go! Been an interesting journey in these last 3 videos, i hope you've learned a whole lot of new things about tuning your table saw!
Nah, the band saw boards were a little wider - it wasn't the same volume to start with. But that kerf difference does add up over several hundred board feet!
@@jennieanddavis phew, but still, I’m thinking if you cut loads, like we both do, I’m thinking that it will definitely be worth it to use the bandsaw in the long run
I don't know. I guess if I had a fancy table saw and a fancy band saw like yours I could decide for myself. 😉 For now I'm using my grandpa's ShopSmith and while it functionally works, it's not exactly a great piece of equipment like what you have.
I believe that for glue ups, you get a far better surface with the tablesaw in the bandsaw. Also you have a very nice, more expensive, and saw the note from your shop. Why don’t you compare Ryobi bandsaw to a ryobi table saw. Like your show.
This Old Tony would just karate chop the board and break it into several perfectly size pieces in one motion and there would be no need to plane it afterwards. Gotta get on board with that.
Is there a way for you to just keep cutting instead of having to move the board to the stand after every cut? Unnecessary motion is a waste of money also.
What about post cut cleanup? Which takes longer? I love my bandsaw for ripping. I use a resaw king carbide blade and it does a great job with the surface. I think you also use up less wood as sawdust if you’re using a bandsaw blade. Even if you’re using a thin kerf able saw blade.
Like vacuum cleanup? Or how much needs to be 'cleaned up' on the planer? In our shop, the band saw is less messy, and the planer will take equal amounts of material from both methods to get the cutting boards flat.
@@jennieanddavis My take on his meaning was that when I use the band saw I need to plane the sawn surface to get a clean face for gluing. With my table saw and glue line rip blade I go straight from the saw to glue-up. But it seems this was addressed as not a factor of you.
@@MrWookie1981 The cuts won't be glued up though, the cuts are facing up/down on the boards, they don't face each other, what is facing each other for glue up is the previosuly jointed/planed surfaces
after 40 plus years of (steel mfg as opposed to wood) my accident with a band saw and my hand was far less worse than my accident with my table saw and hand. So the band saw is way way way SAFER than a table saw. (loss time 1 day verse 6 months and 2 months of rehab to learn how to operate my hand again, 2 years later the hand is still not like it used to be!
No way never!! You crazy hobby biz owners! Real production shops wouldn’t even think to compare these tools. I have a mini max 410 CU. So much more versatile than a band saw. We agree to disagree. Love the videos, you guys kill it, even with a bandsaw!😂
The band saws by far my favorite piece of shop equipment and it is also the most underused and forgotten piece of shop equipment for most woodworkers
It's really great! I understand now why DiResta collects so many of them! So proficient at many different tasks.
@@jennieanddavis Yeah, Jimmy has a good reason not to trust table saws, lol. Also, you need to stop standing behind the offcut on the table saw. If you get any kickback it's going to do a number on you.
Most certainly!
Get outta here! Go on now get 😉
@@BradsWorkbench oh well there goes the neighborhood!
LOL disgustingly obsessed. I love that you gave this as much work here as you did.
You know, you're totally right, the Bandsaw is the superior tool and we are obsessed with the Table Saw, it's what we all learned on. Put it this way, I'm heavily restricted by the size of the blade if I want to resaw a board and often you have to flip the board, which leaves your cutoff board unsupported, it's a whole lot sketchier to resaw on a table saw than on the bandsaw, and here's an incidental that might not matter to some people, but the bandsaw is a lot quieter than the table saw too.
The bandsaw is a great tool. But I was surprised by the amount of internal stress you were finding in your stock. I had a similar issue until I equalized the humidity in my shop with the incoming stock. It was really a game changer when things were turned around in short timeframe.
A 3/16" kerf eats up 2.25 cubic inches of material every 1 ft. rip. That's one bf. every 64 linear ft. of ripping. For Cherry, that $8-9 loss/shrinkage, significant for small pieces, like cutting boards. Average bandsaw blade kerf is .025", 60% less than a thin kerf table saw blade. So, not only does the bandsaw save time, but also money.
The table saw eats and spits profit out as dust. Kerf waste adds up QUICK!
NO BECAUSE ALL OF THOSE BOARDS ALSO NEED PLANNING!
I have the rikon bandsaw ! And I'm having issues making the fence perfectly square to the blade .. it seems when I am happy with it , because it has that adjustment feature , I believe it's also moving little bits at a time . Did you have issues at all like this ? I recently moved and sold my tablesaw . Kept my bandsaw very small workspace now . I now more than ever need my bandsaw to be precise as possible .
TROY AND ABED IN THE MORNING! Unlike them you have cameras rolling. Love all the videos and quality info you both provide!
I did not know about the table saw blade myself. I do not have a band saw. I use the table saw to rip 1X1strip from 2X4s to make frames for my 27in flags. I will change the blade today. Thanks..
We're all learning together! That's what makes this so much fun!
That's good to know guys as I have been putting off getting a table saw for ages ( due to expense and lack of room in my 8 x 8 workshop. I use only a thickener, router, skill saw and It kind of works for me.
8x8 workshop? And I thought mine was small at 11x8. Gotta make every square foot do double/triple duty & put everything on wheels.
One thing I did now see him talk about:
one from a recent upload he admitted that he had a lower quality blade WHILE the band saw has a high quality blade
Two, what is the HP/ RPM of the table saw compared to the bandsaw. That can make a huge difference.
Third the quality of the tool itself needs to be taken into effect. If the table saw is old and kind of junk and the bandsaw is new and tuned, then of course the bandsaw will win.
Ultimately you use what works best. Right now the band saw works best, but if/when they get a professional shop, if they put a 3 HP 220 volt Professional cabinet saw in there with an excellent blade, I am pretty sure that will win out.
Michael, this is a great example of what I meant when I said that sometimes we “talk past each other”.
I addressed several of those things in the videos leading up to this one - we can’t repeat ourselves 5,000 times in every video. We’ll try to be more clear in the future, but it’s a tough balance to strike.
Also, our friend in the Stud Stack repeated this test with his 5hp table saw and a rip blade - his bandsaw was faster also 🙌🏼.
@@jennieanddavis I apologize that I did not watch all the videos leading up to this one.
Also, did the person from the stud stack put out a RUclips video on it? I would love to see it.
I cut alot of wood thats been dried too quickly and the stress causes pinching. I either kill the saw, remove the piece and cut again which helps kerf stay open or have a helper insert a wood wedge once past the blade to keep the kerf open
Now I’m curious to see how fast I can cut 20 slats on my 4hp sliding table saw using my Fritz and Franz jig with my $700 diamond blade. Will try to make a video tomorrow. Will send you the link after. The hard maple slats, how wide do you cut them and how thick is it. 8/4?
Had a guy in the Stud Stack try a similar setup and his band saw won, too! They're 1.25 inches wide and 8/4
Ok. I’ll try it today.
I do all my small rips on a bandsaw. I use the table saw for cross cuts and larger rips. Band saw is the way to go, especially when cutting a lot of smaller pieces. Great job J&D!
You did it!!, you have a winner!! 🏆.
Thanks for doing this. I haven't been able to justify buying a band saw solely based on less material waste, but seeing how much time you save...
I do not know what type of blade you are running in your table saw, but using a good Rip blade is world of difference if you are using a Combo blade. It might not outperform a bandsaw, but it reduces required HP significantly, it can also eliminate burning on heavier stock. It is worth the investment if you are doing a lot of ripping.
Very nice video showing advantage of the band saw! BTW, Less sawdust as well! For cutting boards to length, nothing beats a 12” radial arm saw! You can make a stop, set (11) 2x4’s on edge, clamp one end, and cut them to the exact same length with one pull of the saw. Over and over.
Well now the tablesaw camp say in your power feeder and a bigger saw! Lol I am camp use what you got and keep making!
That's the best camp to be in! We have THE BEST campfires.
@@jennieanddavis & MUCH less drama!
Would love to get a bandsaw but I just don't have the floorspace, so making my table saw do everything I can possibly throw at it! Love my table saw, and yes it's my first 4 digit tool purchase
A couple of questions, as a woodworking class we analyzed your first couple of videos on this project and we’re wondering if you have considered a power feeder to optimize the repeatable cuts. Have you all considered or compared the variety of buying 3S or 2 sides planed and 1 side jointed material? Finally I think it would be fun and interesting to see you all make a video on how you would use a work force of people to creat cutting boards at scale while addressing the bottle necks of making so many.
Have a good one,
Nate
Hi Nate, yes a power feeder would probably help with both tools. Using pre-milled lumber reduces the size of our slats such that we end up using more material per board (7 slats instead of 6 per board). Chopping the rough boards into 18" blocks first drastically reduces the amount of waste in milling.
We definitely plan to have a full assembly line with a team of 3 people working on a batch in our commercial space!
For the bend saw ones, don't you need to joint it on the jointer?
ohhhh nvm. I guess your bandsaw is very tuned. My silly bench top bandsaw can never produce clean cuts.
Dustin is an amazing creator. I've got 1/20 of that print.
Clearly the band saw is superior for this task....so, with this new info...what band saw so you have or would you suggest for volume production?
Question……is there a perfect size band saw that you recommend?
Great video's! I just need to understand, you are glueing the faces together and the rough cut ends are your top/bottom that get cleaned up with the planner? The cutting surface is your endgrain?
We covered orientation of the strips in a previous video! We glue the faces together and plane the edge grain
I was cutting hard maple on my miter and table saw using 40 tooth blades and it was real slow.
I bought a Diablo "Pergo" 12 tooth blade. It cuts really easily and pretty clean cuts on both my miter saw and table saw. Not sure how long the blade will stay sharp.
Was it the kerf difference that allowed more slats? Or were the boards just wider? I'm assuming the boards were just a little wider.
Yes. I had a whole rant about that before I realized the time difference. The boards were wider on the band saw, but that's not really important to the overall results.
@@jennieanddavis actually the width of the boards used in the test would matter. Less reaching for another board, as often would effect the results in time. On a side note, longer boards would yield a better time result on a production stand point, because your not wasting time cutting them to length before ripping them down. Not that it matters. Each woodworker can just use what there comfortable with.
i love how excited you are for the win lol.
What bandsaw blades are you using for resaw? I managed to snag up a $20 14" bandsaw that only needed the wheel belt/tires replaced and blades. So, now I'm hunting as local options are non-existant.
Just to speak on the table saw, there has been wood that I have cut where it did the same thing (wood pinching on rival knife). Its the wood not the table saw. Sometimes the wood acts as a spring with cutting it, clamping on the rival knife. you could always remove the rival knife?
Band saw is extremely versatile, BUT so is the table saw! They each do different things well, with some overlap in between. Try building a crosscut sled for your bandsaw. Try cutting dados or tenons on a bandsaw. Try cutting larger sheet goods on a bandsaw. On the other hand, try resawing large pieces, or cutting curves on the table saw. One is not necessarily “better” than the other. They are both great tools that excel at certain things and not so much at others.
My suggestion would be move the blade guide an 1/8” above the wood on the bandsaw. It’s safer and you will get a nicer cut.
That's a great suggestion - I wish we could do that, but the fence gets in the way of the guide on these narrow strips.
Great video. While I completely agree with your results and what you had to say I think the efficiency would also depend on how well tuned a persons bandsaw or table saw was. For example I have a semi older bandsaw for which I can’t find anything online about and even though I have it tuned up the best that I can seem to get it I still get some amount of drift so my table saw would be far more efficient because I would most likely have to deal with getting the cut surface from the bandsaw flat before the glue up.
That's funny. I just got a second band saw for my shop, and it was more expensive than my table saw. Once I set it up, I'll have to compare it to my table saw. Both are 3HP so it should be interesting.
It's an interesting debate for sure! I went for a CNC and Drum Sander in my garage shop and don't have space for a Band Saw now, but it's on the to do list for when I can upgrade to a commercial space.
Bandsaws rock. I recently got one and use it more than any other tool in my shop.
I'm looking forward to a future video of your setup in the new shop (once you have the volume) to see a gang rip saw feed into a cut-off saw. 8-16ft boards being sliced into 18 inch strips in the blink of an eye. You'll look back on these videos with a smile to see how far you've come, with production speeds that are exponentially faster. Love your channel btw.
One day!!!
@@jennieanddavis Hope it's part of your 1 year plan, rather than the 10 year plan. And given the cost of the machines, a good amount of planning is needed. (i.e. talking to the machine companies who can recommend the best set-up for your needs).
What size was the starting board on both and what were your cuts sizes?
Interesting find. Thanks for doing the test!
Great comparison thanks for posting. Yes I hit the bell. yes im up to speed LOL Bandsaw is defiantly safer and less floor space less noisy ....
So obsessed hahaha! Seriously though, thanks for entertaining everyone's suggestions. You win!
What model of band saw do you use? Looking to purchase one for my shop.
Loving daily videos keep it up Davis
It's a grind - but we're enjoying the experiment!
The next question is can either one of them make a clean enough cut to eliminate the planner step, maybe if you took a couple seconds longer on each board and on both the tablesaw and bandsaw and see if you can get rid of that step all together, within reason
We could spend an hour trying to get 6 slats perfectly square, and they'd still slip and be uneven during glue-up. Planing or drum sanding is necessary
What bandsaw are you using? Mine would not even compare to my table saw
Rikon 14"
Thank you for the quick response! I knew it was a Rikon based on the color scheme, I guess I should have asked for model. I would like to get something nicer (than my bench top) but as a weekend warrior I have to justify beyond the annual pinewood derby car races! Thank you for your content and your enthusiasm! You guys are great!!
Really impressed with the cuts on that Rikon. I don't get that clean and consistent of a cut with my Grizzly G0513X 17" with a Woodslicer.
The fact that you do this as a professional in the first place was good enough. But The rest of the series was great.
Carry on....
Carry on.....
I still think you are missing outfeed support... This will increase your output on either machine due to reducing touches on each piece
True, but at some point you have to collect what's on the outfeed table, which means walking around the tool. Maybe you 'break even' on time after 10-20 slats, but that's gonna be a really big outfeed table! Gotta do what we can in our little garage!
@@jennieanddavis what if you have them slide off the outfeed into a bin? As long as the fall is not too far then you could do dozens before swapping the bin for another... Maple bin then cherry bin and then move each of the bins to the next stage of processing. By the way I have been following now for qu I'm the a while and enjoy the fact that you are not just a "woodworking" channel. You have a very unique take on the genre and it keeps me (and likely others) interested! Great work!
Just FYI, loosen the 2 bolts holding the bandsaw fence to the rail and slide it out and lay it down 90°. You can then lower the blade guides and get even better cuts
Wait... what?! [sprints to garage]
@@jennieanddavis lol, yes it's a 3 position fence. You currently have it set up for resawing wide boards. When you turn it you can get closer to the blade for thin strips and the third position is a low clearance position for very thin stock
What TPI are you running on the bandsaw?
Been watching with interest. Don’t have a band saw yet, but I think you may have convinced me to get a band saw before I spring for a drum sander which was going to be my next purchase.
Which one will make you more money? Are you spending more time cutting lumber, or getting perfectly flat pieces?
@@jennieanddavis about 6 one, half dozen the other truthfully. I have a good planer, but the drum sander I’m looking at will handle much wider boards. On the other hand a band saw would cost about 2/3 as much as the drum sander.
I'm curious as to your process, which maybe you address elsewhere. If I were making similar boards to what I think you do, with the strips gradually reducing in width, the cut edges would be glued together as I'd be cutting sequentially thinner strips. That would mean I'd need a glue-ready surface from each cut. My bandsaw is the Rikon 14-326, the very slightly newer version of yours, and even with a new blade it's never going to give glue-ready surfaces off the cut. My table saw does.
They get turned 90 degrees and the bandsaw marks get planed away after glue-up
@@jennieanddavis are each of the strips the same width? I thought they reduced down in size. *disregard, I see now they are all consistent width. I had your design wrong 👍
What blade do you use on your bandsaw? Love your videos.
Thanks! Wood Slicer from Highland woodworking
Do you still use the table saw then?
What make & model band saw are u using in table saw vs band saw
Based on that test, the bandsaw saved roughly 2.4 seconds per cut over the table saw. Interesting.
Very! Thanks for watching
Love the "Community" coffee cup
I had the same thought that the band saw would be better. Great job with the testing and seeing it through and showing us the journey.
How big a band saw is the one that you have?
How about end grain? sure, first cuts on the band saw, but 2nd cut on the table saw? given you cant "plane" down the end grain? Just curious.
I thought that you were gluing the edges that were being cut by the two saws in comparison. I would never glue the edge from the bandsaw, but with a good glue-line rip blade (such as a Frued) I would glue straight off of the blade. But you went with the box stores cheaper blade that vibrates and leaves chatter marks. So ya get what you pay for. Had my tablesaw for 30 years before I even bought a bandsaw. It is the main tool in the shop with many different sleds and jigs. Someday when you get more experienced, you'll realize that, but yes there are many ways to get the same products out the door.
Chuck, thanks for sharing your experience!
We mentioned the orientation of the strips in the first video at about 4 minutes in. This is a great example of what I said about sometimes we "talk past each other".
We'll try to be more clear in the future, but we can't repeat ourselves 5,000 times either - that's a constant struggle to balance as a video creator! Thanks for your continued support 🙏.
Why would you not glue from the band saw? I do and never had a problem.
They are make edge grain cutting boards not face grain.
What blade are you using on the Rikon? I have a Rikon and am not impressed with the blade that came with it.
Wood sliver from highland woodworking
*wood slicer
Where do you buy your lumber from? Clarks or houston hardwoods?
Just curious if you are using hard maple or soft maple. In my life soft maple has way more problems with internal stress and doesn't finish as well. Bill
You clearly are more experienced with a bandsaw so you can go faster than the table saw. I think for a large portion of woodworkers, there will be more table saw experience so it will be faster for them to use the table saw.
I’ve got way more hours logged on a table saw!
Other Stud Stack members with different experience levels tested this on their own - same result!
You mean like the last video when he was jamming the wood through -- I thought he was going to get it back in the gut. Definitely some things to learn.
Interesting. Also, dangit because now I want a bandsaw
It's a slippery slope!
@@jennieanddavis sure is you guys got me to buy a 100th anniversary Powermatic jointer
Can you join studstack if you have been in business, but don't currently own a business?
How many bandsaw blades do you have to buy to equal the life of a tablesaw blade?
Well done love watching your videos
What blade are you using to get such nice cuts on the bandsaw?
Wood Slicer from Highland Woodworking
the bandsaw is perticular about adjustments. as you found when your blade started getting dull. it wandered terribly. if the blade on the table saw gets dull you can still cut straight. it will just burn the wood mostly.anyhow, yes bandsaws are faster. most modern sawmills run bandsaws to break down the logs
Love the enthusiasm and congrats on the win 🏆
Assuming 19 cuts on the table saw at 1/8 blade kerf is going to be about 2 3/8th of waste. Bandsaw will always win.
OMG thank you. I'm so glad someone did the math.
Are you using a carbide band saw blade?
Maybe I missed it but you didn't mention what kind of tablesaw blade you were using was it a thin kerf? You did take the time to find the right bandsaw blade but you just used whatever you had in the tablesaw Which looks like a freud industrial 24 tooth (Hopefully it wasn't the lesser Diablo). Either way what matters is how clean of an edge do they give you because the feed time can only be so fast anyways to be safe. In addition it seems like you always need to justify and prove to everybody that what you've decided to do is best so I am curious about why you feel the need to do that unless that's just part of what you want your videos to be about
I’m curious to know how the cost compares between the band saw and the table saw. I enjoyed this and I think the kerf thickness is a huge advantage for rip cuts that need to be efficient. Tables saw waste a lot of wood, meaning more dust, etc. 👍🏻
Cost is negligible. Focus your time on making sales, not saving money!
You prouved your point
I prefer the bandsaw too
What band saw blade do you use?
Only problem with a bandsaw is the dust collection. Anyone that solves that should get a medal
And the miter saw... but maybe that's just a pipe dream 😅.
Looking at the early comments, some folks are mentioning the danger of possible kickback on the table saw. But with a bandsaw, you don't have that kind of issue. So +1 to bandsaws for another reason: SAFETY
Yes! I had a whole rant in this video about that - just didn't want to get into a safety argument, which is personal and subjective for everyone!
I struggle getting a straight line on my band saw. I've always gotten reliably straight cuts on my table saw. Must be doing something wrong--would love to find a more efficient way to work
We struggled with straight cuts until we got a good, sharp blade. They go dull much quicker than you want them to. Also look up the Snodgrass method of tuning a bandsaw
Wow, hard to believe. You had no blade draft? What type of blades? I enjoy your videos, thank you! gerry Smith.
What bandsaw are you using
I’m sure this was discussed but I’ve heard of dropping the boards several times to release the tension in them.
Wait! You have to add in the time for planning the bandsaw cuts!
That's interesting
I think bandsaw is sort of Better because it has a smaller kerf which requires less power than the wide kerf on the table saw so you get less waste with the bandsaw however bandsaw blade have to be replaced pretty often. And also the bandsaw is safer.
What kind of band saw do you have?
Simple physics, thinner blade = less binding (and less kerf), larger tool = more cuts per blade... It will win efficiency every time.
Both have their place for sure, but in tasks where they overlap band saw wins.
Your Bandsaw only has a 1/2 hp motor where your table saw should have atlest 3hp, using a small motor to cut hard lumber will force your tool to work harder then intended and will burn your tool up quicker. Unless you have a blade with a low tooth count on a straight tooth cut design with atlest 1 3/4 hp bandsaw it’s best to stick with a table saw that has a 3hp motor with preferably a frued rip blade. Also never ever force a cut. Your riving knife is a safety feature that is designed to help stop your work piece from pinching against your fence and kicking back on you or worse popping your piece and causing your hand to fall into your blade.
I know this is old but even my husband who is a master woodworker says the band saw is the best way to go.
so, the same amount of wood on each test, but you get three more boards worth of material just by using the bandsaw instead of the table saw?? Never mind the speed of the cuts, that is a WHOLE LOT of extra waste when using the table saw hey?
Luckily i ordered my new band saw in June (coming in November). Can't wait to give it a go!
Been an interesting journey in these last 3 videos, i hope you've learned a whole lot of new things about tuning your table saw!
Nah, the band saw boards were a little wider - it wasn't the same volume to start with. But that kerf difference does add up over several hundred board feet!
@@jennieanddavis phew, but still, I’m thinking if you cut loads, like we both do, I’m thinking that it will definitely be worth it to use the bandsaw in the long run
I don't know. I guess if I had a fancy table saw and a fancy band saw like yours I could decide for myself. 😉
For now I'm using my grandpa's ShopSmith and while it functionally works, it's not exactly a great piece of equipment like what you have.
I believe that for glue ups, you get a far better surface with the tablesaw in the bandsaw. Also you have a very nice, more expensive, and saw the note from your shop. Why don’t you compare Ryobi bandsaw to a ryobi table saw. Like your show.
We don’t use those edges for glue ups
@@jennieanddavis with a good table saw and blade you could
Good information
Now I gust need to get Dad’s bandsaw into my garage.
This Old Tony would just karate chop the board and break it into several perfectly size pieces in one motion and there would be no need to plane it afterwards. Gotta get on board with that.
Is there a way for you to just keep cutting instead of having to move the board to the stand after every cut? Unnecessary motion is a waste of money also.
Not in our current shop!
What about post cut cleanup? Which takes longer? I love my bandsaw for ripping. I use a resaw king carbide blade and it does a great job with the surface. I think you also use up less wood as sawdust if you’re using a bandsaw blade. Even if you’re using a thin kerf able saw blade.
Like vacuum cleanup? Or how much needs to be 'cleaned up' on the planer? In our shop, the band saw is less messy, and the planer will take equal amounts of material from both methods to get the cutting boards flat.
@@jennieanddavis My take on his meaning was that when I use the band saw I need to plane the sawn surface to get a clean face for gluing. With my table saw and glue line rip blade I go straight from the saw to glue-up. But it seems this was addressed as not a factor of you.
@@MrWookie1981 The cuts won't be glued up though, the cuts are facing up/down on the boards, they don't face each other, what is facing each other for glue up is the previosuly jointed/planed surfaces
after 40 plus years of (steel mfg as opposed to wood) my accident with a band saw and my hand was far less worse than my accident with my table saw and hand. So the band saw is way way way SAFER than a table saw. (loss time 1 day verse 6 months and 2 months of rehab to learn how to operate my hand again, 2 years later the hand is still not like it used to be!
No way never!! You crazy hobby biz owners! Real production shops wouldn’t even think to compare these tools. I have a mini max 410 CU. So much more versatile than a band saw. We agree to disagree. Love the videos, you guys kill it, even with a bandsaw!😂
Everybody's gotta start somewhere!
Can we get a blade sharpening comparison? :)
They both go in the trash just as quickly!