Like a lot of people I am fortunate to own both systems like you Ron. I always use my track saw to give me a true straight edge to any sheet of ply. The parallel guides help to give me accurate repeatability and also for breaking down sheet goods. My table saw is for when I want to make specialized cuts and also for narrow stock, it is a bit quicker. I also use the table saw for dado work. Obviously I can also do that with my router on the guide rail.
After a lifetime of woodworking I am finally purchasing a track saw to break down sheet goods. One benefit that you didn't mention (or I missed?) is that a track saw needs about ten feet of length to rip sheets down as opposed to closer to 20 feet using a table saw.
I purchased my first track saw and can’t believe that I waited so long . The accuracy is so unbelievably dead on and the ease of use for one person to break down material is beyond anything I could imagine.
Another gem Ron! One additional comment, if it’s within your budget, The cordless Festool track saw increases your productivity exponentially. Not having to deal with dust collection and a power cord is a game changer. It’s probably the most used tool in my shop.
I agree, I had the corded FT saw for years, but picked up the FT cordless saw as soon as it was released. After two years with the cordless saw I sold my FT corded saw as I didn't use it once after getting the cordless version. With the dust bag, no cord no vac hose. A production monster and with TSO parallel guides as accurate as a $15K stroke saw.
I got a track saw before those parallel guides became available. It was great for preliminary break down of plywood sheets; however, getting perfectly parallel cuts was a challenge. The 90 degree cut attachment came out first IIRC and that is awesome IF you are very careful. I got a decent job site table saw and a miter saw. Those tools made much much more confident about square and parallel cuts. Now I have the luxury of a shop size Saw Stop. The bigger table and motor is great but the safety features were the biggest advantage for me. Oh! The fence is fantastic too, but I didn’t know enough about that when I bought it. My next project is a track saw cutting station with MFT-like dog holes. That will shift some tasks back to the track saw. The point of that rambling is that you can use either tool to get jobs done. However, each of us will develop different approaches depending on the work we’re doing, the level of accuracy we need, and what we’re most comfortable with.
Personally, I find that using a portable tracksaw, where the saw moves across the wood, results in a straighter and more accurate cut compared to moving the wood across a stationary table. This is especially true for larger pieces, such as full sheets of plywood. In large production shops, accuracy and safety are prioritized, which is why they opt for sliding table saws instead of cabinet saws. While cabinet saws have many uses, breaking down plywood isn't one of them. I had two 5hp Powermatics with large aftermarket fences, as well as sizable infeed and outfeed tables. However, when we acquired our track saws, we no longer used them for breaking down plywood. The track system also saved us from having to invest in the expense and square footage that a slider requires. For cabinet jobs, my primary tool is a cross-cut accessory for the Smart Workbench. When I'm only making a few cabinets, the parallel guides and guide rail square are just as accurate and reliable as a slider, and much more versatile than a cabinet saw. That being said, if your current method works for you, then there's no need to change it. This is my solution: ruclips.net/video/npULjNAEGAU/видео.html
Thanks Ron. That answers my question about whether or not to add a track saw to my shop. I'll be getting one soon. Your argument for using a router instead of a CNC machine was inspiring. I've spent the past few months really getting into using my router with patterns and it's been a great deal of fun. Thanks man, you're awesome.
Nice explanation of the different saws and totally agree with everything you said. Ever since I purchased my first Track Saw 5 years ago I break down all my sheet goods with the Track Saw on my TrackTubes cutting station. The only thing I'd add is to get the most out of your Track Saw's dust collection, you should use a sacrificial sheet of rigid foam insulation (or other material) under the sheet you're breaking down.
Your going to lose the ability for table saw joinery, like half laps. Repeatability will be gone without a table saw sled. Your track saw idea will probably work until you encounter the above situations.
I'm planning on doing the same and will try making jigs, fixtures, and 3d printed widgets to help me work around not having a table saw. But this is a hobby for me, so I don't mind taking my time on projects so I can make those things. Edit: I'll be using the Kreg ACS system to help with repeat cuts too.
@@rj8025 how do you rip rails and stiles? I tried using a track saw only for a few cabinets, but I had to be so careful nothing slipped even a mm. Table saw for ripping thin stock is so much easier, faster, and consistent. I do use track saw to joint one edge of hardwoods and for all sheet goods.
@@jschwartzlow I get spot-on accurate rips for rails and stiles with my track saw by using my 20mm hole pattern bench top and accessories from TSO (parallel guides, rail clamps, super dogs, pups) and UJK (Parf system fence and stop - I use two of them). I’m used to the set up so it is fast enough for my work. A table saw is easy and fast I’m going to build the Paulk Smart Cradle for a small table saw so maybe I will start to use a table saw again for small rips.
We have two 52” cabinet saws in the shop and a panel saw and we still prefer the track saw when breaking down full sheets. The panel saw is seeing less and less use as we use the track saw day in and out. Also have a Festool HK and on site that has really changed the game for us when doing cross cutting over a miter saw or bringing out the big tracks.
One thing that you didn't mention was the safety aspect. A tracksaw is much safer to operate than a table saw. We used to have a tablesaw on the farm that always scared me as a kid. Super old with no guard and sounded like a plane taking off. So the tracksaw is a no brainer for me. I have a Festool track saw I bought over 10 years ago. It's one of the best purchases I've ever made. When I'm cutting something like melamine, I always set the depth to 7mm to make a scoring cut and then set the actual depth to make the full cut. This gives me a nice clean cut on the top surface.
They scared me shitless in high school. Now that I'm older I don't even consider using table saws. The dumbest tool ever. A big exposed blade spinning at you
Enjoying your videos and just finished building the stand up desk. Really cool design. Visitors to my office like it a lot. Regarding the Sawstop, I cut a fair amount of wood right from the mill that hasn't been kiln dried and can be quite wet depending on how long I've had it. Does wet wood cause the safety feature to activate? What is your experience cutting "wet" wood with the Sawstop?
I started with the Sawstop Jobsite and quickly realized it wouldn't do all I wanted. I just received my Festool TSC 55 this past week.. handy when you have to rip it before you can bring it home.
Hi Ron, I always learn a lot from your videos. Thank you! How have you found the accuracy of the jobsite table saws you are now using compared to the larger cabinet saws you used in the past? Are the jobsite saws accurate for cabinet and furniture work?
Awesome video. Still miss your old shop… Building floating shelves with MDF. Trying to decide the 45 joints are more accurate with the table saw or my track saw. 5ft long 6 in wide
Excellent information. As always you have tons of knowledge to compare and explain. Much appreciated. BTW, I see the Kapex on the other side of the table and the hose you are using is not looking like a Festool hose., what is that and how have you hooked it up? Does your Kapex have a dedicated dust collection?
The track saw offers much more flexibility and portability than a table saw can. They both do operations that the other can not. An affordable track saw is a good addition to any shop for braking down sheet goods and any angle needed on sheet goods.
Do you ever find that you miss the accuracy and repeatability of the biesemeyer fence? I always find your videos very innovative and informative. Thanks for publishing this content!
Great info, thanks! Saw your other video today about the version #2 of your work bench with the router table in it. You had modified the plans to use 1/2" plywood. Can I do the same to make the Paulk Smart Bench now instead of using 3 /4" plywood?
12mm ply is fine for the bottom, spreaders and sides, the top needs to be 18mm as 12mm doesn't work well with bench dogs. The horses also need to be 18mm.
Thank you! So if it can be all done on the track saw- even if it takes a little more time, but bcuz I have less space I guess it's a track saw for me. Thanks for the ok info.
Excellent as always Ron, and your analysis has prompted a question in my thoughts that are referencing your passion for keeping things lean. Suppose you are facing a situation where no table saw is available. Would you and Chris give some serious thoughts to how you would configure some new table fixtures(s) that would adapt your track saw to be as efficient as possible to cover the preferred uses of your table saw presently? - I'm still waiting to get a table saw... and if this is a not a challenge you've already tried and and dismissed, I hope you would give this a try.
For some time I’ve noticed a trend in the wood working, construction videos that are common to one another. Most are from professionals who are peddling plans for their gadgets, jigs, tools they have designed, tips on how to set up a shop, plans they have made for different projects, With most directed toward the Do it yourself person. Few if any who have channels that are hawking their products ever show you them actually using them in a day to day business. Someone has said if you can’t make it in the industry you can always start teaching ! Those who do both are truly a pleasure to watch, the others I take with a grain of salt.
Ron - Always enjoy your stuff - and always learn something. It was not clear to me why you chose the table saw for narrower rips (18” or less)... I recently bought a TS55 and love it - and feel more accurate making a long rip of any width compared to a table saw... what am I missing?
Great overview of the two saw types, Ron. Especially your coverage of the challenges of cutting plywood on a table saw. I have a corded Dewalt track saw and would like to buy a square for it. Dewalt discontinued their square. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am not sure if I have shown it on a video, but it is very simple. Make a mark on each end of the stock to taper and lay the track on the marks. No need for a hold down. Just make the cut. I don't know of a simpler way to make an angled cut.
FWIW, when I've done this on material smaller than the track section, I box the work piece in on 3 sides with drops of the same thickness. Pressure from the track can hold everything in place pretty well, or you can clamp on the outfeed side.
Thanks for the video Ron. As someone who is more of a hobbyist/DIYer, I don’t have it in the budget at this time for a track saw. Do you have any recommendations for a store bought jig/guide or a video for a DIY jig/guide for a standard circular saw to perform crosscuts? Also will a circular saw cross cut guide/jig work with your cross cut table set up or does it require a track saw? Thanks!
Ron I have a question for you, what is your thoughts on the Dewalt track saw cordless, I’m asking this because that is the whole system invested in I do mainly kitchen bathroom remodels and most of the cabinets are done in our shop, but on occasion they will be some bookcases we made or modified on site. Is it Worth me getting the fest tool track saw for the difference in price attachments, talking of attachments will the same attachments the Dewalt track saw. Hope you find the time to be able to give me some insight on this thanks for a great video as always.
The Dewalt corded version was my first track, but I sold it and got the FT. When the FT cordless version came out, I picked one up and sold off my corded version. I didn't like the DeWalt track. I believe the Dewalt saw will work on a FT track. FT invented the track saw and I think it is the best option. That being said, I would look around YT for real world reviews on the Dewalt as I have many Dewalt tools that I like, plus my Dewalt was the first one they came out with as soon as FT patient ran out.
@@TheSmartWoodshop thanks Ron I’ll do some research on the Dewalt and the FT cordless, but tbo I might just buy the FT, buy once cry once. The older I’ve gotten the more my philosophy is buy the best tool for the job i.e. best quality not necessarily namebrand, but whoever has the best tool for the job.
Great information as usual, Ron. Thank you. I have been considering a track saw for breaking down sheets of melamine but nobdy I've talked to has used it for melamine including me festool sales rep. How good is the track saw for chipping? I need a good clean cut to apply edgebanding.
Melamine is tough for all saws. The best bet is to back cut first like I demonstrated in another video and the cut all the way. It takes two passes, but worth it.
I built an entire kitchen in melamine for my cabin with the TS55. I used the melamine blade and they came out with sharp edges with no chips (or very few). And sharp is an understatement. I cut myself a few times during that project. Nothing but good things to say about it.
@@roclayson One thing I forgot to mention: you have to cut on a backer piece or you'll get tear out. I used a cheap 3/4" pink foam insulation sheet. Anything you don't mind scoring works though.
The need for either one depends on what you're doing. If you're in your shop building furniture or jewelry boxes out of solid lumber the table saw is a must have and you can get by without a track saw. On a construction site, in my experience, both are needed. When I think track saw I think plywood, when I think table saw I think 8/4 maple. By the way, I just got the TSO parallel guides with the quick adapters. I don't think I've been this excited about a tool in a long time. They are deadly accurate, easy to use and solidly built. The flip stops are super beefy with zero deflection and the quick adapters are a dream come true! ;-)
Hi, Ron. I'd like to start a part-time home renovation and repair business in retirement. I'm currently renovating my house, already own a Hitachi jobsite table saw, and I am considering the purchase of an additional compact table or track saw for my tool kit. If you were starting out in this type of business, would you suggest the purchase of a track saw or a compact table saw (i.e., DeWalt 7485) to add to my tool kit?
I would say track of you already have a table saw, especially if you got a cordless track saw such as the makita which I have, much more versatile. As a trim carpenter and cabinet installer I grab the track saw much more often than the table saw
@@rogermathews3035 I'm considering a cordless track saw, but wonder about length of effective battery charge and battery longevity. Thank you for your comment.
@@edwardlomax7842 The Makita runs on two to make it 36 volts, with fully charged batteries I've never had it die. I know that doesn't say much about workload but I've been impressed with battery longevity
@@edwardlomax7842 I picked up the FT cordless as soon as it came out. Two years later, I sold my corded FT track saw as I did not use it once after getting the cordless version with dust bag. No cord, no vac hose is a production game changer.
My first track saw was a DeWalt when they first came out. Within 3 months, I sold the dewalt and purchased the FT. I didn't like the Dewalt track. Makita copied FT's track as soon as FT's patent expired, but they added a small lip that limits some accessories. The TSO tool less parallel guide attachment that I use daily will not work on the Makita due to that lip.
For cutting 8'x4' it's a track saw or a sliding table table saw. A sliding table saw with a 10' throw needs 250sq.ft and therefore a 1000 sq.ft workshop. My workshop is only 500 sq.ft so that rules that out. You cannot get Sawstop in Europe except in one of the Festool jobsite saws which for me are too expensive. I have had eight stitches in my fingers from table saws. I can do all my dimensioning with a track saw, a mitre saw, a bandsaw and a planer/thicknesser so why spend good money on a nice table saw to cut your fingers off? I still have my 33 year old ELU flipover mitre/table saw, it has a nice quiet induction motor. With all the extensions I have acquired over the years I can cut up to 8'x2' but I increasingly use it just for fine dimensioning. I am 62 and have given up lugging it's 77lb weight (plus extensions) to job sites for just a day's work or even at all. There's a RUclipsr called Matt Eastlea who runs a shop without a table saw for safety reasons which I am increasingly in agreement with.
@@TheSmartWoodshop thank you Ron, really love the channel and your designs. In the middle of building the Smart Workbench after downloading the plans from your site.
Ron- Great video and just what I needed to see. I have been on the fence about getting a track saw recently. I've been getting by with a circular saw and homemade jig. I know you use the Festool track saw. Do you have any suggestions of other brands for someone who will not be using it every day?
Makita and Triton use identical tracks to Festool. That means any accessories like parallel and crosscut guides made for Festool can be used with Makita and Triton. They will not fit DeWalt, Bosch or Mafell tracks. All of them are good saws so it's not a question of quality. It's about getting the best selection of accessories and most are made for Festool.
@@zone4garlicfarm Makita copied FT track as soon as FT's patent ran out, but Makita added an additional lip which has some limitations such as the tool less TSO parallel attachment that I use will not work on the Makita.
Both have their purpose. It’s hard to maneuver a full sheet of plywood or MDF of a table saw by urself but with a track saw, you can cut that sheet into a rough size and then cut it to the exact size on the table saw. Like for me, my shop is in my basement and it’s hard for me at 70 yrs old to carry a full sheet of 3/4 sheet goods down the steps by myself whereas I can break it down with the track saw in the garage and carry the rough size pieces down to my shop
I have done lots of dados with a dado stack for many years, but now use my router for that type of work. I have videos showing dados made with table saw and more recent videos using a router. If I could only have one of them it would be a track saw. A track saw can do everything a table saw can do, but the table saw cannot do all that a track saw can. Still I use both, the right tool for the job is always the safest and most efficient.
@@TheSmartWoodshop How does one go about performing cove cuts with a track saw? I get your point that the track saw is very versatile, but there is a reason why people might have a table saw, track saw, Router, and radial arm saw. There are certain functions that just aren't safe or possible using other tools.
You didn't mention to make first a scoring cut with the track saw for a cleaner result. This is a "reverse" cut where the depth is set to only a few millimeters and the track saw is used in the "wrong", ie. reverse direction. The second cut is with normal depth in the "correct" direction. Great care is required for the 'reverse' cut as it's much more dangerous than the "correct" cut.
I made a 10 minute video demonstrating shallow back cuts: ruclips.net/video/1Hk9z1Yt0l0/видео.html I don't need to do this with the FT track saw as it has a splinter guard that provides the same results in a single cut. R
We make shorts which are 60 seconds. I prefer long form for my personal consumption as I don’t get much from shorts. You can filter you viewing for shorts if you don’t want longer detailed content. I would suggest my channel not be the best fit for you. 😎
Хобби
![Tablesaw or Tracksaw for Narrow Rips [video 477]](/img/1.gif)
Like a lot of people I am fortunate to own both systems like you Ron. I always use my track saw to give me a true straight edge to any sheet of ply. The parallel guides help to give me accurate repeatability and also for breaking down sheet goods. My table saw is for when I want to make specialized cuts and also for narrow stock, it is a bit quicker. I also use the table saw for dado work. Obviously I can also do that with my router on the guide rail.
After a lifetime of woodworking I am finally purchasing a track saw to break down sheet goods. One benefit that you didn't mention (or I missed?) is that a track saw needs about ten feet of length to rip sheets down as opposed to closer to 20 feet using a table saw.
I purchased my first track saw and can’t believe that I waited so long . The accuracy is so unbelievably dead on and the ease of use for one person to break down material is beyond anything I could imagine.
Me to. Got mine in January.
Another gem Ron! One additional comment, if it’s within your budget, The cordless Festool track saw increases your productivity exponentially. Not having to deal with dust collection and a power cord is a game changer. It’s probably the most used tool in my shop.
I agree, I had the corded FT saw for years, but picked up the FT cordless saw as soon as it was released. After two years with the cordless saw I sold my FT corded saw as I didn't use it once after getting the cordless version. With the dust bag, no cord no vac hose. A production monster and with TSO parallel guides as accurate as a $15K stroke saw.
I got a track saw before those parallel guides became available. It was great for preliminary break down of plywood sheets; however, getting perfectly parallel cuts was a challenge. The 90 degree cut attachment came out first IIRC and that is awesome IF you are very careful. I got a decent job site table saw and a miter saw. Those tools made much much more confident about square and parallel cuts. Now I have the luxury of a shop size Saw Stop. The bigger table and motor is great but the safety features were the biggest advantage for me. Oh! The fence is fantastic too, but I didn’t know enough about that when I bought it. My next project is a track saw cutting station with MFT-like dog holes. That will shift some tasks back to the track saw.
The point of that rambling is that you can use either tool to get jobs done. However, each of us will develop different approaches depending on the work we’re doing, the level of accuracy we need, and what we’re most comfortable with.
Personally, I find that using a portable tracksaw, where the saw moves across the wood, results in a straighter and more accurate cut compared to moving the wood across a stationary table. This is especially true for larger pieces, such as full sheets of plywood. In large production shops, accuracy and safety are prioritized, which is why they opt for sliding table saws instead of cabinet saws. While cabinet saws have many uses, breaking down plywood isn't one of them.
I had two 5hp Powermatics with large aftermarket fences, as well as sizable infeed and outfeed tables. However, when we acquired our track saws, we no longer used them for breaking down plywood. The track system also saved us from having to invest in the expense and square footage that a slider requires. For cabinet jobs, my primary tool is a cross-cut accessory for the Smart Workbench. When I'm only making a few cabinets, the parallel guides and guide rail square are just as accurate and reliable as a slider, and much more versatile than a cabinet saw.
That being said, if your current method works for you, then there's no need to change it. This is my solution: ruclips.net/video/npULjNAEGAU/видео.html
@@TheSmartWoodshop thank you! I had missed the PSCC video and that is a really neat approach.
Thanks Ron. That answers my question about whether or not to add a track saw to my shop. I'll be getting one soon. Your argument for using a router instead of a CNC machine was inspiring. I've spent the past few months really getting into using my router with patterns and it's been a great deal of fun. Thanks man, you're awesome.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and years of experience, very helpful
Nice explanation of the different saws and totally agree with everything you said. Ever since I purchased my first Track Saw 5 years ago I break down all my sheet goods with the Track Saw on my TrackTubes cutting station. The only thing I'd add is to get the most out of your Track Saw's dust collection, you should use a sacrificial sheet of rigid foam insulation (or other material) under the sheet you're breaking down.
“My answer is yes.” Hilarious. Love it :-)
Excellent explanation of why you need both
I am experimenting with a tracksaw only shop. I use the bandsaw for those narrow rips. Another good video.
Your going to lose the ability for table saw joinery, like half laps. Repeatability will be gone without a table saw sled. Your track saw idea will probably work until you encounter the above situations.
I'm planning on doing the same and will try making jigs, fixtures, and 3d printed widgets to help me work around not having a table saw. But this is a hobby for me, so I don't mind taking my time on projects so I can make those things.
Edit: I'll be using the Kreg ACS system to help with repeat cuts too.
@@rj8025 how do you rip rails and stiles? I tried using a track saw only for a few cabinets, but I had to be so careful nothing slipped even a mm. Table saw for ripping thin stock is so much easier, faster, and consistent. I do use track saw to joint one edge of hardwoods and for all sheet goods.
@@theintelligentcarpenter9407 I am 2 projects into my experiment, so far it is working for me.
@@jschwartzlow I get spot-on accurate rips for rails and stiles with my track saw by using my 20mm hole pattern bench top and accessories from TSO (parallel guides, rail clamps, super dogs, pups) and UJK (Parf system fence and stop - I use two of them). I’m used to the set up so it is fast enough for my work. A table saw is easy and fast I’m going to build the Paulk Smart Cradle for a small table saw so maybe I will start to use a table saw again for small rips.
We have two 52” cabinet saws in the shop and a panel saw and we still prefer the track saw when breaking down full sheets. The panel saw is seeing less and less use as we use the track saw day in and out. Also have a Festool HK and on site that has really changed the game for us when doing cross cutting over a miter saw or bringing out the big tracks.
The panel saw seems like an interesting option. I've never used one. What is it about that tool that has resulted in it being used less?
great information! Thank you for the differences in use cases. I think I need to get a track saw, now... :)
One thing that you didn't mention was the safety aspect. A tracksaw is much safer to operate than a table saw. We used to have a tablesaw on the farm that always scared me as a kid. Super old with no guard and sounded like a plane taking off. So the tracksaw is a no brainer for me.
I have a Festool track saw I bought over 10 years ago. It's one of the best purchases I've ever made. When I'm cutting something like melamine, I always set the depth to 7mm to make a scoring cut and then set the actual depth to make the full cut. This gives me a nice clean cut on the top surface.
They scared me shitless in high school. Now that I'm older I don't even consider using table saws. The dumbest tool ever. A big exposed blade spinning at you
A fount of information. Thank you Ron!
Great pros and cons on both
There's a whole lot of information being presented here. Thanks.
I use my tracksaw as a jointer all the time. It’s a great solution.
As for scoring, Mafell's track saw has a special function for that included. Bit more expensive than the festool saw, worth it if you need it, though.
Awesome info on the differences, thank you.
Enjoying your videos and just finished building the stand up desk. Really cool design. Visitors to my office like it a lot. Regarding the Sawstop, I cut a fair amount of wood right from the mill that hasn't been kiln dried and can be quite wet depending on how long I've had it. Does wet wood cause the safety feature to activate? What is your experience cutting "wet" wood with the Sawstop?
It depends on the application. I totally agree.
Saved me months of research - Thanks
I started with the Sawstop Jobsite and quickly realized it wouldn't do all I wanted. I just received my
Festool TSC 55 this past week.. handy when you have to rip it before you can bring it home.
Hi Ron, I always learn a lot from your videos. Thank you! How have you found the accuracy of the jobsite table saws you are now using compared to the larger cabinet saws you used in the past? Are the jobsite saws accurate for cabinet and furniture work?
Awesome video. Still miss your old shop… Building floating shelves with MDF. Trying to decide the 45 joints are more accurate with the table saw or my track saw. 5ft long 6 in wide
Excellent information. As always you have tons of knowledge to compare and explain. Much appreciated.
BTW, I see the Kapex on the other side of the table and the hose you are using is not looking like a Festool hose., what is that and how have you hooked it up? Does your Kapex have a dedicated dust collection?
Festool track saw and a saw stop jobsite saw is the best of both worlds for a mobile set up
Don’t forget the Mafell push pull table saw where you pull the blade towards you. High quality by all accounts
The track saw offers much more flexibility and portability than a table saw can. They both do operations that the other can not. An affordable track saw is a good addition to any shop for braking down sheet goods and any angle needed on sheet goods.
Do you ever find that you miss the accuracy and repeatability of the biesemeyer fence? I always find your videos very innovative and informative. Thanks for publishing this content!
Great info, thanks! Saw your other video today about the version #2 of your work bench with the router table in it. You had modified the plans to use 1/2" plywood. Can I do the same to make the Paulk Smart Bench now instead of using 3 /4" plywood?
12mm ply is fine for the bottom, spreaders and sides, the top needs to be 18mm as 12mm doesn't work well with bench dogs. The horses also need to be 18mm.
Thank you! So if it can be all done on the track saw- even if it takes a little more time, but bcuz I have less space I guess it's a track saw for me. Thanks for the ok info.
Another amazing video from you Ron!
Excellent as always Ron, and your analysis has prompted a question in my thoughts that are referencing your passion for keeping things lean.
Suppose you are facing a situation where no table saw is available.
Would you and Chris give some serious thoughts to how you would configure some new table fixtures(s) that would adapt your track saw to be as efficient as possible to cover the preferred uses of your table saw presently?
-
I'm still waiting to get a table saw... and if this is a not a challenge you've already tried and and dismissed, I hope you would give this a try.
I cut a beautiful taper on a piece of cabinet scribe once with my track saw. I love my makita track saw but I use the table saw a lot more.
Thanks. Great analogies too. So, what is more fun? To slide the wood into the blade, or slide the saw into the wood?
For some time I’ve noticed a trend in the wood working, construction videos that are common to one another. Most are from professionals who are peddling plans for their gadgets, jigs, tools they have designed, tips on how to set up a shop, plans they have made for different projects,
With most directed toward the Do it yourself person. Few if any who have channels that are hawking their products ever show you them actually using them in a day to day business. Someone has said if you can’t make it in the industry you can always start teaching ! Those who do both are truly a pleasure to watch, the others I take with a grain of salt.
Good morning Ron
What is the model number of the Dewalt table saw you have
Ron - Always enjoy your stuff - and always learn something. It was not clear to me why you chose the table saw for narrower rips (18” or less)... I recently bought a TS55 and love it - and feel more accurate making a long rip of any width compared to a table saw... what am I missing?
Narrow rips on a track are not that efficient, plus it is easy to manage narrow cuts on a table saw.
Great overview of the two saw types, Ron. Especially your coverage of the challenges of cutting plywood on a table saw. I have a corded Dewalt track saw and would like to buy a square for it. Dewalt discontinued their square. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I don't know of an option for the Dewalt track. My first track saw was a Dewalt, but I didn't care for the track and switched to the FT system.
I heard that Dewalt saw works with Festool track
You mention ripping smaller pieces with a taper using the track saw. Do you have a video showing how you set that up safely?
I am not sure if I have shown it on a video, but it is very simple. Make a mark on each end of the stock to taper and lay the track on the marks. No need for a hold down. Just make the cut. I don't know of a simpler way to make an angled cut.
FWIW, when I've done this on material smaller than the track section, I box the work piece in on 3 sides with drops of the same thickness. Pressure from the track can hold everything in place pretty well, or you can clamp on the outfeed side.
Thanks for the video Ron. As someone who is more of a hobbyist/DIYer, I don’t have it in the budget at this time for a track saw. Do you have any recommendations for a store bought jig/guide or a video for a DIY jig/guide for a standard circular saw to perform crosscuts? Also will a circular saw cross cut guide/jig work with your cross cut table set up or does it require a track saw? Thanks!
I got the makita guide and cheap rails, it's not great, will sell it and get a proper track saw now
There are cheaper track saws. Lots of people use cheaper brands. They're very similar.
The Makita track saw allows you to score the surface first before cutting, little or no tear out all at the push of a button.
Thanks.
Thank you for your tips on table and track saws. You just sold me on a track saw.
What is the aftermarket hose you are with Kapex?
amzn.to/3qBw7GE
Ron I have a question for you, what is your thoughts on the Dewalt track saw cordless, I’m asking this because that is the whole system invested in I do mainly kitchen bathroom remodels and most of the cabinets are done in our shop, but on occasion they will be some bookcases we made or modified on site. Is it Worth me getting the fest tool track saw for the difference in price attachments, talking of attachments will the same attachments the Dewalt track saw. Hope you find the time to be able to give me some insight on this thanks for a great video as always.
The Dewalt saw is a piece of crap, go for the Festool or the Makita one. Are if you really want to spend the money go for a Mafell
The Dewalt corded version was my first track, but I sold it and got the FT. When the FT cordless version came out, I picked one up and sold off my corded version. I didn't like the DeWalt track. I believe the Dewalt saw will work on a FT track. FT invented the track saw and I think it is the best option. That being said, I would look around YT for real world reviews on the Dewalt as I have many Dewalt tools that I like, plus my Dewalt was the first one they came out with as soon as FT patient ran out.
@@TheSmartWoodshop thanks Ron I’ll do some research on the Dewalt and the FT cordless, but tbo I might just buy the FT, buy once cry once. The older I’ve gotten the more my philosophy is buy the best tool for the job i.e. best quality not necessarily namebrand, but whoever has the best tool for the job.
Great information as usual, Ron. Thank you. I have been considering a track saw for breaking down sheets of melamine but nobdy I've talked to has used it for melamine including me festool sales rep. How good is the track saw for chipping? I need a good clean cut to apply edgebanding.
Melamine is tough for all saws. The best bet is to back cut first like I demonstrated in another video and the cut all the way. It takes two passes, but worth it.
I built an entire kitchen in melamine for my cabin with the TS55. I used the melamine blade and they came out with sharp edges with no chips (or very few). And sharp is an understatement. I cut myself a few times during that project. Nothing but good things to say about it.
@@TheSmartWoodshop good idea , thanks.
@@ShadLindrud great. Thanks for the info.
@@roclayson One thing I forgot to mention: you have to cut on a backer piece or you'll get tear out. I used a cheap 3/4" pink foam insulation sheet. Anything you don't mind scoring works though.
Great comparison. I think a track saw also let's you get away with a much smaller table saw. Right?
The need for either one depends on what you're doing. If you're in your shop building furniture or jewelry boxes out of solid lumber the table saw is a must have and you can get by without a track saw. On a construction site, in my experience, both are needed. When I think track saw I think plywood, when I think table saw I think 8/4 maple.
By the way, I just got the TSO parallel guides with the quick adapters. I don't think I've been this excited about a tool in a long time. They are deadly accurate, easy to use and solidly built. The flip stops are super beefy with zero deflection and the quick adapters are a dream come true! ;-)
Awesome
7:42 is that an outline of RedBox Cowboy in his pocket
On an unrelated note, got my Powe-Loc inserts in the mail today.
Hi, Ron. I'd like to start a part-time home renovation and repair business in retirement. I'm currently renovating my house, already own a Hitachi jobsite table saw, and I am considering the purchase of an additional compact table or track saw for my tool kit. If you were starting out in this type of business, would you suggest the purchase of a track saw or a compact table saw (i.e., DeWalt 7485) to add to my tool kit?
I would say track of you already have a table saw, especially if you got a cordless track saw such as the makita which I have, much more versatile. As a trim carpenter and cabinet installer I grab the track saw much more often than the table saw
@@rogermathews3035 I'm considering a cordless track saw, but wonder about length of effective battery charge and battery longevity. Thank you for your comment.
@@edwardlomax7842 The Makita runs on two to make it 36 volts, with fully charged batteries I've never had it die. I know that doesn't say much about workload but I've been impressed with battery longevity
@@rogermathews3035 The Makita Cordless Track Saw's performance is something to consider and very good to know. Thank you.
@@edwardlomax7842 I picked up the FT cordless as soon as it came out. Two years later, I sold my corded FT track saw as I did not use it once after getting the cordless version with dust bag. No cord, no vac hose is a production game changer.
Have you ever tried any other track saws besides the Festool saw?
My first track saw was a DeWalt when they first came out. Within 3 months, I sold the dewalt and purchased the FT. I didn't like the Dewalt track. Makita copied FT's track as soon as FT's patent expired, but they added a small lip that limits some accessories. The TSO tool less parallel guide attachment that I use daily will not work on the Makita due to that lip.
For cutting 8'x4' it's a track saw or a sliding table table saw. A sliding table saw with a 10' throw needs 250sq.ft and therefore a 1000 sq.ft workshop. My workshop is only 500 sq.ft so that rules that out. You cannot get Sawstop in Europe except in one of the Festool jobsite saws which for me are too expensive. I have had eight stitches in my fingers from table saws. I can do all my dimensioning with a track saw, a mitre saw, a bandsaw and a planer/thicknesser so why spend good money on a nice table saw to cut your fingers off? I still have my 33 year old ELU flipover mitre/table saw, it has a nice quiet induction motor. With all the extensions I have acquired over the years I can cut up to 8'x2' but I increasingly use it just for fine dimensioning. I am 62 and have given up lugging it's 77lb weight (plus extensions) to job sites for just a day's work or even at all. There's a RUclipsr called Matt Eastlea who runs a shop without a table saw for safety reasons which I am increasingly in agreement with.
Thanks for sharing that and tips!
Thanks Ron. Do you ever use, or see the merit in table saw sleds or taper jigs at all or does your track saw make that stuff redundant?
I use to use a taper jig on my table saw, but not once since I started using a track saw 10+ years ago.
@@TheSmartWoodshop thank you Ron, really love the channel and your designs. In the middle of building the Smart Workbench after downloading the plans from your site.
Ron- Great video and just what I needed to see. I have been on the fence about getting a track saw recently. I've been getting by with a circular saw and homemade jig. I know you use the Festool track saw. Do you have any suggestions of other brands for someone who will not be using it every day?
Makita
Makita and Triton use identical tracks to Festool. That means any accessories like parallel and crosscut guides made for Festool can be used with Makita and Triton. They will not fit DeWalt, Bosch or Mafell tracks. All of them are good saws so it's not a question of quality. It's about getting the best selection of accessories and most are made for Festool.
Get the Kreg, good price and has a riving knife.
@@LiveLaughLoveLift is the kreg compatible with the festool?
@@zone4garlicfarm Makita copied FT track as soon as FT's patent ran out, but Makita added an additional lip which has some limitations such as the tool less TSO parallel attachment that I use will not work on the Makita.
60 years old and never heard of a sliding table saw. Old dog new trick
Both have their purpose. It’s hard to maneuver a full sheet of plywood or MDF of a table saw by urself but with a track saw, you can cut that sheet into a rough size and then cut it to the exact size on the table saw. Like for me, my shop is in my basement and it’s hard for me at 70 yrs old to carry a full sheet of 3/4 sheet goods down the steps by myself whereas I can break it down with the track saw in the garage and carry the rough size pieces down to my shop
Every one is talking about the saws....what about your addiction to plastic boxes!...Good explaining
Lol!
The table saw is essential, the track saw is not IMO. I didnt fully realize this until i had to make 27 8ft long dados.
I have done lots of dados with a dado stack for many years, but now use my router for that type of work. I have videos showing dados made with table saw and more recent videos using a router. If I could only have one of them it would be a track saw. A track saw can do everything a table saw can do, but the table saw cannot do all that a track saw can. Still I use both, the right tool for the job is always the safest and most efficient.
@@TheSmartWoodshop How does one go about performing cove cuts with a track saw? I get your point that the track saw is very versatile, but there is a reason why people might have a table saw, track saw, Router, and radial arm saw. There are certain functions that just aren't safe or possible using other tools.
@@bertaboy By using a router table instead which is far better for cove cuts to begin with.
You didn't mention to make first a scoring cut with the track saw for a cleaner result. This is a "reverse" cut where the depth is set to only a few millimeters and the track saw is used in the "wrong", ie. reverse direction. The second cut is with normal depth in the "correct" direction. Great care is required for the 'reverse' cut as it's much more dangerous than the "correct" cut.
I made a 10 minute video demonstrating shallow back cuts: ruclips.net/video/1Hk9z1Yt0l0/видео.html I don't need to do this with the FT track saw as it has a splinter guard that provides the same results in a single cut. R
Too elementary. I do have both saws.
Video too long. bullet points please
We make shorts which are 60 seconds. I prefer long form for my personal consumption as I don’t get much from shorts. You can filter you viewing for shorts if you don’t want longer detailed content. I would suggest my channel not be the best fit for you. 😎