DCC Gives this Model Train New Life
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- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2024
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“The godly may trip seven times, but they will get up again.
But one disaster is enough to overthrow the wicked.
Don’t rejoice when your enemies fall;
don’t be happy when they stumble.
For the Lord will be displeased with you
and will turn his anger away from them.
Don’t fret because of evildoers;
don’t envy the wicked.”
Proverbs 24: 16-19 NLT
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Upgrading old locos to DCC has been on my mind.
Dude converts everything to DCC. "Next on Coffee and Trains I'm gonna convert my wife's hairdryer to run on DCC".
Hey don’t give me good ideas like that 😆😆
@@DIYDigitalRailroad now I have this Arduino that we can use. Did you know that if use jmri you can control the exact temperature of
Lol!!!!
I always say to anyone who has some none DCC ready locos start with a train set loco as thy are often the simplest wiring for the electronics.
The LED's can be changed colour wise by subtle use of clear paints.
Good video as ever.
I will ship you an old Con-Cor model if you want to upgrade it to DCC. You will need to use your dremel to cut the chassis to fit the decoder. Fun stuff.
I think I had this exact locomotive with my starter set years ago.
I have the bachmann FTa unit, same as this. I also have the F7units a&b. For those i found thatvthe main headlight can be changed out with a 5mm lead by removing the clear plastic Len's and placing LED at desired depth. With the F7a unit, i drilled out the plastic and replaced with a 3mm LED, that is my main light with the upper 5mm used as a high beam/Mars. I found doing this gave extra variety, as sell as stopped light bleed from the other funtions such as cab, and number board lights as dhown in the end of this video. Black paint on inside of body and used 1mm pinned JST plugs for body removal and maintenance.
Thanks Jimmy for making it very clear where the right and left are on the loco. I alway had it wrong I though it was from looking front. As alway a very informative as usual. Man I keep learning new tricks and tips!!!
That is a really good idea. I like the way you control the number boards seperatly.
I love that color light Jimmy. DCC the waffle iron!!! 😂 Thanks for sharing Jimmy.
Thanks Jimmy. These retro upgrades are very helpful. I have six or seven Athearn blue box locos that need updating and some cool features. I haven't done a rewire soI will be referring to your video a number of times to get it right . I especially like that you did the number boards and cab light. I like when modelers add the ballast/truck light. I think it goes on the conductor's side. I hope that you will set this engine aside for future improvements like sound. Great job !
Very nice demo on adding DCC...But, dude, about those clouds ..........
Some of the newer Bachmann HO scale starter set locomotives are actually really good. My nephew has the Bachmann Norfolk Southern F unit starter set and that thing runs smooth and quiet. And I have a BNSF GP40, at least I think it's a 40, may be a 38, that runs the same way. it even has decent low speed performance which surprised me.
Thanks for these videos, Jimmy! I always want something to watch that's longer, but these really do a great job of what they're trying to do. It almost makes me want to wire up a nonDCC engine...almost. I've JUST switched to DCC myself, and made it easy by using a 6pin Digitrax in my brand new Atlas Alco S-4. Runs great! Also picked up a BLI with sound. I need to figure out how to set CVs and all that stuff I suppose. I also don't know how to potentially stop the BLI from suddenly dropping the engine sound from time to time, or occasionally playing different sounds like radio chatter. I do sometimes get flange squeal and coupler sounds, but that's not bad during running.
Anyways, thanks! Especially for the reminder, "Don’t rejoice when your enemies fall."
Good job explaining the wiring. I am not brave enough to try that so will stay with my beloved DC engines. If I do go DCC will get it already done safer for me and the engine that way. I do so enjoy watching others do this kind of work. Thanks for sharing .
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
Don't worry too much. Just find some cheap old DC locos to practice on.Take it easy, go slow and look at heaps of tutorial videos on the subject. And don't forget to protect your solder job with shrink tubing. Small heat guns really help in shrinking the tubing when you are ready for that. Be aware of safety protocols and take your time.
@@debbiemilka2251
Thank you my try it someday.
You can upgrade the motor in this with one from Bachmann that has flywheels and is a bit beefier. Will also need to order the different motor mount.
That’s a great idea… didn’t know that… anyway, great video… challenging converting those metal chassis and glad you showed how it can be done… 😊
Great video Jimmy! I’ve had this exact starter set for ten years and I still want to convert it to DCC at some point. Should be a fun first conversion.
Ethan, I am like you. I am so new to this DCC stuff. I've got several good condition,but old, Athearn Blue box engines that I want to convert to DCC. Good luck to the both of us. I am making my first layout in years. I have very little room so it's only going to be like 6' long and 20" wide. As soon as I finish my bench work I'll set it aside and get down to this DCC wiring exploration .
You can maybe put caption tape over half the LED to soften it a bit. All the way would make it too yellow.
Cool. Im running DC at the moment as i start off, but in the future i would like to convert all of my locomotives to DCC. I guess since they are all N scale steam loco’s i would have to put the decoder in the tenders?
Thank You 🙏
I have 3 Bachmann f-9 locos built in the late 70- early 80's would have to re motor and mill down the frame to convert to dcc
Send your yard sale starter sets to me😂
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Not bad. I'd honestly would have used a direct style board just to keep the soldering and excess wires down.
I thought the first thing to do is check the current draw of the motor? I’ve never done a conversion but thought we need to make sure the stall current draw was under the decoder max current rating.
I personally resurrected several cheaper locos using this exact process
A very helpful video! One question - Can’t the original bulb be used instead of an LED ?
As far as I am aware, the original light can still be used. However, LEDs have a much longer lifespan than incandescent bulbs and are fairly cheap. As one is already poking around the inside electronics, most people upgrade to LEDs while installing decoders.
@@christiankroemer4267 thanks for the reply. I just thought it might be easier to attach the decoder to the original bulb.
What is the name of that orange tape?
Kapton tape.
I’m wondering how to convert an old ATSF F7A. That’s been bought back in the 1990’s. If anyone could help Thanks!
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