I have a bench liek this on my workbench my grandfather made it a very long time ago still held up to this day one of my most used seats in the shop. Great Video keep up the great work
The Wen drill press is awesome and there isn't much run-out. Remove the chuck and clean the taper before installing it again an see if it improve. I like orange better, so happy I have the Wen.
I got a drill press made in Taiwan in 1979 at a flea market for $20. Dial indicated the run out and got .002. That said, I read the Wen's motor is 5 amps and the Bauer is 6.2.
That’s a legit buy at 20 dollars! Some of the old drill presses are beasts. So far this one has done everything I asked it to. I saw the amp difference afterwards👍 Thanks!
I have an old wobbly ryobi that I’m looking to replace. Half the price of a new one to fix. The new speed adjustment is interesting but it seems that all these presses are comparable at this price point.. the run out is the most important thing to me. I think you’re stool design excited me the most! Great job 👍🏻
Thanks! It was a fun project and definitely different. Runout is one of the most important functions of a drill press and most cheap ones are not great. But they work nonetheless.
Can you tell us what the runout was? I bought the 10-inch Bauer recently, although my intention going to HF was to bring home the 12-inch, motivated by the variable speed capability. When I saw the 12-inch model at the HF store, it was evidently too large for the area in my garage. Thanks
I don’t have a dial indicator, but my best guess is 5-7 thousands. I have drill quite a few holes in steel and it has not produced any ‘sloppy’ holes. I definitely like the variable speed option, but I tend to stay on the low end because I work with steel mostly. How is the 10” version working for you?
@@mooseworks i haven’t used the 10” too much since it’s a recent purchase. But the laser is spot on, following a fine alignment and the drill press appears to be accurate. Will test the run out soon. I use a drill press primarily for woodworking, so I should have plenty of torque and power to spare.
You remove the morse taper and the attached chuck in one piece from the spindle. Lower the spindle all the way. You will note that it has a split in it. Get a small box with a rag in it and place it under the chuck. Take the drift pin (probably supplied with the dp) and place it in the slot. Take a hammer and tap the pin ever so lightly. The chuck and taper should fall into the box. Using your hands to gently push the taper back into the spindle...DO NOT USE A HAMMER DIRECTLY ON YOUR MACHINE EVER. Press the taper in using a block of wood and the spindle handle.
@@Hood_Tyme_Fab Right on man! It definitely saves the arms. I have been drilling holes in steel with a hand drill for two years. Bout time… haha. Good luck lookin!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
That little slide out roller is sweet
Yeah I thought so too! I will let you know if I actually use it. Haha
I have a bench liek this on my workbench my grandfather made it a very long time ago still held up to this day one of my most used seats in the shop. Great Video keep up the great work
Thanks! Hopefully mine lasts as long as yours. I appreciate you leaving this comment. Have a great day!
The Wen drill press is awesome and there isn't much run-out. Remove the chuck and clean the taper before installing it again an see if it improve. I like orange better, so happy I have the Wen.
Sounds like i should have waited and saved some money! Thanks for letting me know. I did pull the chuck and clean it, but no change…
I got a drill press made in Taiwan in 1979 at a flea market for $20. Dial indicated the run out and got .002.
That said, I read the Wen's motor is 5 amps and the Bauer is 6.2.
That’s a legit buy at 20 dollars! Some of the old drill presses are beasts. So far this one has done everything I asked it to. I saw the amp difference afterwards👍 Thanks!
Great build brother
@@qconard thanks! It makes me happy every time I get to sit down and spin on it! Haha
Nice work!
Thanks for watching!
I have an old wobbly ryobi that I’m looking to replace. Half the price of a new one to fix. The new speed adjustment is interesting but it seems that all these presses are comparable at this price point.. the run out is the most important thing to me. I think you’re stool design excited me the most! Great job 👍🏻
Thanks! It was a fun project and definitely different. Runout is one of the most important functions of a drill press and most cheap ones are not great. But they work nonetheless.
Can you tell us what the runout was? I bought the 10-inch Bauer recently, although my intention going to HF was to bring home the 12-inch, motivated by the variable speed capability. When I saw the 12-inch model at the HF store, it was evidently too large for the area in my garage. Thanks
I don’t have a dial indicator, but my best guess is 5-7 thousands. I have drill quite a few holes in steel and it has not produced any ‘sloppy’ holes. I definitely like the variable speed option, but I tend to stay on the low end because I work with steel mostly. How is the 10” version working for you?
@@mooseworks i haven’t used the 10” too much since it’s a recent purchase. But the laser is spot on, following a fine alignment and the drill press appears to be accurate. Will test the run out soon. I use a drill press primarily for woodworking, so I should have plenty of torque and power to spare.
@@gerardbroussard6336 awesome! Let me know how it goes!
You don't need a new chuck. You just need to carefully reset the chuck.
@@brendawright5899 how do you reset the chuck?
You remove the morse taper and the attached chuck in one piece from the spindle. Lower the spindle all the way. You will note that it has a split in it. Get a small box with a rag in it and place it under the chuck. Take the drift pin (probably supplied with the dp) and place it in the slot. Take a hammer and tap the pin ever so lightly. The chuck and taper should fall into the box. Using your hands to gently push the taper back into the spindle...DO NOT USE A HAMMER DIRECTLY ON YOUR MACHINE EVER. Press the taper in using a block of wood and the spindle handle.
Use an indicator and a solid base to measure the run-out. Mine is less than 1 thousand which is way good enough and then some.
@ I will have to do that! I don’t have a dial indicator yet… but soon.
I love mine but the speed control lever is ridiculously stiff. Is that normal?
Seems to be the case. Mine is very stiff too!
Needs to be stiff otherwise it would move while running!!! Its spring loaded pulley would slow it down!!!
Anyone know the height of this12" drill press? I've searched the google universe and the online manual to no avail.
In a couple days I can measure that for you. What dimensions do you need me to pull?
@@mooseworks just the height from bottom of base to bottom of chuck (and overall height would be nice too). Thanks
Height 38 inches
Depth 22 inches
Width 14 inches
@@mooseworks Thank you so much, now i can measure my area for it. Super appreciate this. Go figure, no measurements anywhere else. ; )
@@spirit3soul FYI, those were the overall dimensions.
I've never come across the brand in my country, they look decent quality for the money.
Thanks! I have only used it for a short while. No problems yet. What brand do you have?
@@mooseworks I don't have one yet,,I'm just gearing up my home set-up ,doing a little research and I came across yours.👌
@@Hood_Tyme_Fab Right on man! It definitely saves the arms. I have been drilling holes in steel with a hand drill for two years. Bout time… haha. Good luck lookin!
Chambers on wrong side is definitely something I would have done. Some of us just don't get any slack from Murphys Law.
Chambers on wrong side?
very nice
Thanks!
Does anybody know how much travel there is on the drill bit?
I just measured. Looks like approximately 3.2 inches of travel. 👍
@@mooseworks okay thanks