Got linked here from a comment of yours on Reddit. This is a fantastically well structured and informative video! Likely gonna grab a K2 hot-swap when they come back in stock and do most of what you recommend after a while. Thanks for the great tips!
This was exactly what I was looking for!! Going to replace the keycaps on the aluminum k8 and just needed that small clarification that it can be done without too much effort for this noob
@@alyssamichellesalad those are the material options, specifically you'll be wanting to look for cherry/mx compatible keycaps. This is the 'default' if you will so unless a set of keycaps specifically says it's made for something else there's a 99% chance it'll work with Cherry/MX style switches.
Great vid! The difference was huge. I've done the stab mod for my K8, and I saw a noticeable improvement. I also replaced the Gateron Blues with retooled MX Blacks, and swapped out the alphas for PBT. I haven't tried the foam mod, but I might have to now!
Well done. I liked the cost summary at the end. I too noticed the heavy grease of the stabs on my K2v2 when I went to lube and just left them not know it was 'too much'. Lubing the keys makes it really buttery smooth. Oh and the Apollo theme throughout was dear to me. I've been eying that 'blue moon' key for some time.
That stuck spacebar is exactly my problem when replaced some of my keycaps to OEM PBTs. Searching Reddit, I saw that some speculate it's because of the thickness but doesn't answer the question. My theory is that the stabs get stuck on the inner-top of the keycap when bottomed out. I'll be continuing my caliper measurement when I got time. For now what I did was to put the spacebar but not pushing it all the way, making it stick out a little bit compared to the rest of the bottom row. Works for now, but I'm not sure what could be a more permanent fix. Thanks for this video by the way! Would like to try foaming the case. I have browns so I'm not sure about lubing them for now.
Xavier Lexus Concepcion interesting about your spacebar!! The foam helps a ton with the case noise and lubing browns can be worthwhile! They’re already linears that are pretending to be tactile.
This is a thorough process you've laid out. I really enjoyed it :) I found it strange what you considered tedious vs easy modifications as I don't find installing switch films nearly as time consuming as opening/lubing the switches. Also, foaming the board isn't that involved, though I get that you meant it in terms of taking the whole board apart. Tip: Try a 1:1 ratio of Krytox205g0 grease and Krytox105 oil. Its quite nice--and put it on the stabilizers as well, instead of permatex/dielectric grease. You'll be pleasantly surprised! Any plans to build a custom in the future?
Phiz, glad you enjoyed! The filming is certainly something you get faster at over time, I know I have. Mostly trying to look from the perspective of someone completely new to the hobby and what has a high learning curve or risk of failure and what doesn’t. I’m actually getting ready to experiment some more of lubed and such for a longer term project I’m working up. And yes! I absolutely have 1 custom already done, video in the works, and should have the last parts for mg first soldered build by end of year!
Haha! I was wondering how long it would take someone to notice. It was a gift from a friend, they got it on Etsy from DrunkGirlDesigns. The frame is just the gaudiest one I could find on Amazon.
Very good and informative video! I enjoy that you didnt waste any time explaining everything needed. I had a question: How do you feel about the height of the keyboard and is there any mod you can think of to make the keyboard lower? I'm not too much of a fan of taller keyboards and im not too keen on a wrist mount either. Just wondering what my options are.
nave thanks for the kind words! Human time is precious and I don’t want to waste it. This is just simply a tall keyboard. When it comes down to it; If you practice proper typing form, hovering your wrists regardless of keyboard height, it’s not an issue. Due to the way this keyboard is architected: It’s just tall. Keychron, I think wisely, went for price optimization over thinness. That being said, I did get to spend some time with one of their low profile K1v4 keyboards and I actually REALLY liked it right out if the box and it comes in a tenkeyless layout that is identical to the K8. Might work for you!
@@_IanOfEarth Thanks for the reply! Interesting thoughts. I'm actually thinking of holding out for the K10. I'm a full size user and I hope the release is soon and I hope the height is good, but Im expecting to be the same height as K8 which is fine, I can deal with it but just exploring other areas.
Hey, I know I'm a bit late to the party but I was planning to do the case foam mod for my K8. I was going to use Butyl tape as well (I can get some double sided sealant type from my local hardware store). Do you have any opinions on whether that's a good idea?
Thank you So much for the video it's going to be really helpful for when I mod my K2!! I was however wondering would you do the foam mod for the K2 or do you reckon that it is a small enough board that it is not needed?
Happy to help! I hope you have a great results. I would foam it for sure, the K2 is larger than the K6 I did the same mod on, and even on the K6 it's a big improvement.
Did the neoprene foam you used have adhesive on one side? What was the thickness of the foam? Also, do you have a link to where you bought it? Appreciate it
I know this video is a bit older, but I hope you still see this comment! I really liked the sound of yours and was wondering if both of those case foam layers were 5mm`?
This is enormously helpful to me. I am contemplated doing a series of mods on my K8, including installing PCB foam, which requires separating the plate from the PCB. I was unsure whether that was possible without desoldering-thanks to your video, I know that it is, and that I can proceed! Looking forward to doing it. Hey by the way have you ever tried using PCB foam, and if so has it made a difference for you? Thank you!!
It’s only possible if you have the hotswap model, mind you! I have not used PCB foam on this board but I have on some others and it’s a more dampened sound. Up to you if that’s what you want or what you think would make the board better.
@@_IanOfEarth Definitely, yes it's a hotswap! So it should work out. Thanks for your info re PCB foam-am pretty sure that is the effect I am looking for, will see. Interested in checking out your other videos for ideas now, too!
Your video is tremendously helpful, thanks! Did you cover the battery with one layer of the foam, or did you leave it without for safety reasons? Also would you recommend re-lubing the gateron brown ones? Thanks!:)
Bob Senior, I’m glad it holds such value for you! I did not. I left it uncovered out of an abundance of caution. The rest of the case is so full of foam I’m not sure it would make a lick of different to cover it. Browns are a tricky call because they are tactile, and if you lube the legs of a tactile switch they lose some of their tactility. Something Browns are already lacking. I’d recommend you lube one, try it, and see how you like it! If you hate it you can put it in the place if an infrequently used key, and if you love it you can do the rest. Hope that helps!
@@_IanOfEarth it does and thanks for the answer, waiting impatiently for the k8 now! Have you tried iqunix f96? any thoughts on it? Most reviews online seem to focus on the aesthetics, and the review of the keyboard itself doesn't seem very in-depth. Taeha did a stream on it, but i think it was aimed at a different audience. Thanks again!;)
@@johnmoody1642, it's a great board! I hope you love it!! I have not used that board but I did look in to it some time ago. I'm a 'no numpad' person (or southpaw) so it didn't really appeal to me. Looking at it online and considering the price point I'm willing to bet it'd be pretty similar to the Keychron K4.
Just saw your video and it is really helpful just wondering as K8 has north facing LED is there a problem with Cherry profile keycaps because of interference. I cannot find the info anywhere and I do not want to buy cherry profile and do not use them. Thanks
Some cherry keycaps will have Row 3 collisions, unfortunately it's largely down to the internal geometry of the keycaps. Some don't interfere, some do. Also, if you're going to switch swap, I believe some more modern Gateron switches have modified housings to make interference less likely.
Really like the well structured video. Just a question though, would you recommend doing a silicone mold mod here instead of the foam mod? If yes, at what height level would you recommend filling the silicone (e.g., right at the top of standoffs)? I'm worried about reassembling without messing with the power/bt switch and usb c slot. Thanks!
Silicone would work! I would fill it to the “shoulder” of the standoffs. By that I mean the wider part of the stand off where the PCB rests. Maybe just a mm lower than that so there is no contact. Thanks for your kind words!
Added some pudding keycaps to mine and had the exact same issue with the spacebar. I dremelled the crap out of the spacebar thinking that something was binding, but it made no difference. Like you, I put it on upside down and it worked fine! :/ Just looks a little odd...
great in depth video! any idea whether the K4 V2 hotswappable has the same quirks as the K8 with regards to no mounting screws that hold the plate and pcb together?
Thanks so much for your comment and question! That is like one of the very few K series boards I have not tinkered with, but looking at photos I can find I would guess that that is the case, yes.
@@_IanOfEarth Found some foam-- "Sorbothane Acoustic & Vibration Damping Film 40 Duro". When i go to add this foam, is it necessary to remove all the switches? Or can i get away with just unscrewing all the plates, etc?
@@Black16STI Because of the way these are built, any misalignment might be a problem with getting it back in the case, so if it's not hotswap I'd tread lightly as you may need to take it apart to get it back together.
I've never heard of the GamaKay before, so not too sure! That being said if you don't need wireless and love RGB the GamaKay certainly looks like it would do the job!
The stock caps that Keychron boards come with are OEM profile which is just a little taller than Cherry which is more typical of a profile. So looking for Cherry might be a good place to start! You can also look at www.keycaps.info and easily compare all keycap profiles to see what you might like! Once you land on one you like just do some searching from there to see what you might like. Also note that the Keychron K Series boards are a little taller than the average board, so the caps might be fine and you just need to adjust your typing form a little to hover your wrists slightly higher up.
@@mundaney generally speaking yes! The Keychron boards all use what are generally called "MX Style Switches" the only thing to look out for is that the kit you land on has the correct lengths of caps, particularly for the shifts and modifiers keys. That being said the K8 has a very generic layout so damn near any kit you find should have you set.
Amazing video! I ordered HyperX keycap set in black. I wanted to get Cherry Silent Red but they are sold out everywhere, I don't know where I could get some silent linear switches in Europe.
Noemi L keep an eye out for Silent Alpaca’s to restock, also note that Asian vendors typically have better shipping rates to Europe than American vendors.
@@_IanOfEarth I found the neoprene & a lub on Amazon France! Now I'll be on the look for silent alpacas, they are similar to Cherry MX style? Else my keycaps won't fit !
I just got one of these and I want to foam mod it, but none of my hex screw heads seem to fit in it. What size screwdriver are you using to get them open? 1.5mm and 2mm are too small and too large, respectively. Is it 1/16''?
Nerfi Mcnerfnerf there are a lot of great, on-demand artisans on Etsy! Also looking up artisan keycaps on Instagram search is a great way to find makers.
Are you certain you got the hotswap version of the board? If so, try an aftermarket key switch puller as the one that comes with the Keychron is really poor.
When taking the Keyboard apart with also removing all the switches, can you separate the PCB from the plate? I will also try these mods and hope to also be able to take these apart and do something to darken the charging LED which is wayyy to bright.
Yes, once all the switches are out, the plate and PCB are totally independent from each other. I also meant to put some dimming film over the LEDs and totally forgot to.
SpaNk, any 1/8” or 3mm foam would work as well as mine does here. If it’s self adhesive that’s a huge bonus, and neoprene foams seem to be well liked in the community, but there are certainly lots of other options! Do some shopping around with those specs in mind, keep in mind too that a local hobby/craft store or hardware store would likely have that kind of thing too.
It is quite a bit of work indeed, Ryan. Fortunately, this video is 3 years old and now you can buy the K8 Pro which has almost all of these mods already done out of the box and for less money! The hobby has changed a lot and is so much better now.
@@jrlavilla9857 not that I can detect. Those interference issues are largely overblown to be a Cherry geometry problem when it’s typically more of a GMK geometry problem.
@@_IanOfEarth Wow. I hope you're right. I also heard that long stems solve that issue. Perhaps tealios have those long stems, and that you couldn't detect them on the stock gat reds because of the sound they produce make it indistinguishable? I would love all the insight I could get as I'm about to pull the trigger on one of those cherry profiles from KBDfans.
Nexus, huh, had never thought of that. Definitionally, yes you could; But, I do not know of anyone who has made such a plate. The Keychron K8 has status LED’s and a few other things that are non-standard to a TKL, so I’m not even sure if anything off the shelf would work.
@@_IanOfEarth Oh, alright. If possible, I'd like an update on that. It's not necessary however. One last question. Are the Tealious switches heavier than the Gateron red switches or is it just the bottom out that is different?
Nexus, I will not be looking in to brass plate options for the K8, but you are more than welcome to do so! As for the switches: Gateron only quotes the actuation force and Zeal only quotes the bottom out force. That being said, pushing both on my switch test: I’d guess the Tealios actuation force is a little higher than the Red’s as well as the bottom out force.
After watching the sound tests in the video I can't help but think the biggest upgrade you could do to your keyboard would be to learn how to type. Seriously. Your hunt and peck typing was painful to watch, especially with the space bar.
Hahaha, no kidding, I have gotten much better over the last almost 18 months in the hobby now. Interestingly getting an Arisu keyboard is what kind of kicked me in to shape. My right hand is still pretty lazy compared to my left, but getting better!
Osvaldini comfort mostly! It is something I’m working on as I worry about RSI in my right wrist, but it’s kind of an “if it works it works” kinda deal.
Ipawper -, you might enjoy ‘Switch and Clicks’ videos on the K8 or Austin V’s review more than my video if that’s what you’re looking for! Their’s are review style videos and this is a modding guide. That being said: I personally really like the K8 with Gateron Red switches out of the box. Reds are not my favorite linear switch but they are very usable. As I mentioned in the video, if I could only change one thing: I’d swap out the keycaps. The ones that come with are pretty thin and putting on more substantial keycaps makes quite a difference in sound and feel. (Sound test in the video.) And I’d also recommend getting the Gateron Hotswap version so when you’re ready for a different switch or want to experiment you can do so without the need for soldering equipment.
Love the video, it's nice to have someone explain all the steps and ensure that newcomers and veterans get something out of the content.
Too kind! That is exactly what I'm going for!
This. Subbed because of it. Thanks!
Keychron is the only mac os + nordic layout keyboard I've found. Bless them for making this board
Their layout support is VERY good, major selling point for sure
Got linked here from a comment of yours on Reddit. This is a fantastically well structured and informative video! Likely gonna grab a K2 hot-swap when they come back in stock and do most of what you recommend after a while. Thanks for the great tips!
Gavin Farina glad you came across it and enjoyed!! If you have any questions let me know
Astonishing video production quality, I love that it's so well-structured. Please make more.
Ian, thank you so much for the kind words! I plan on it for sure, started script for the next one last night.
@@_IanOfEarth Glad to hear that, fellow Ian. Will stay tuned.
Great video. :)
I have the K8 and the K2. The only modding I've done so far is replacing the keycaps on the K8.
Thanks for watching! I hope you’re enjoying your new keycaps
This was exactly what I was looking for!! Going to replace the keycaps on the aluminum k8 and just needed that small clarification that it can be done without too much effort for this noob
Awesome!! I hope it turns out well!!
@@_IanOfEarth So when buying/looking for keycaps, I only need to look for PBT or ABS? That's what I search for?
@@alyssamichellesalad those are the material options, specifically you'll be wanting to look for cherry/mx compatible keycaps. This is the 'default' if you will so unless a set of keycaps specifically says it's made for something else there's a 99% chance it'll work with Cherry/MX style switches.
Great vid! The difference was huge. I've done the stab mod for my K8, and I saw a noticeable improvement. I also replaced the Gateron Blues with retooled MX Blacks, and swapped out the alphas for PBT. I haven't tried the foam mod, but I might have to now!
Patrick Rennie, thanks so much!! My next video has a board using retooled blacks, I am loooooving them
Well done. I liked the cost summary at the end. I too noticed the heavy grease of the stabs on my K2v2 when I went to lube and just left them not know it was 'too much'. Lubing the keys makes it really buttery smooth. Oh and the Apollo theme throughout was dear to me. I've been eying that 'blue moon' key for some time.
Contact Dashboard i’m glad you liked the build and the video so much! I hope Keychron works on the lube amount, it’s comically too much.
This is exactly the mod review I was looking for! TYSM!
Fantastic!! Please ask away if you have any questions!
Well organized and very informative video! Very helpful! Thanks! Subbed. You definitely deserve more subs.
So kind!! Thank you and glad you enjoyed!
What I want to know most...is where did you get the Tommy Wiseau painting?
akosibjie it was a gift from a friend, they got it on Etsy from DrunkGirlDesigns. The frame is just the gaudiest one I could find on Amazon.
@@_IanOfEarth thank you! I'll check it out!
akosibjie for sure! Also, if you like Tommy, I’ve got 3 Q&A’s on my channel with him.
@@_IanOfEarth great I'll check ot out as well! Thank you!
Great video, I just ordered this keyboard and will lube the switches and do all of that. Thank you!
Congrats on the purchase! I hope you love it!
That stuck spacebar is exactly my problem when replaced some of my keycaps to OEM PBTs. Searching Reddit, I saw that some speculate it's because of the thickness but doesn't answer the question. My theory is that the stabs get stuck on the inner-top of the keycap when bottomed out. I'll be continuing my caliper measurement when I got time. For now what I did was to put the spacebar but not pushing it all the way, making it stick out a little bit compared to the rest of the bottom row. Works for now, but I'm not sure what could be a more permanent fix.
Thanks for this video by the way! Would like to try foaming the case. I have browns so I'm not sure about lubing them for now.
Xavier Lexus Concepcion interesting about your spacebar!!
The foam helps a ton with the case noise and lubing browns can be worthwhile! They’re already linears that are pretending to be tactile.
cleanest and no nonsense video on mod ever. am a fan now
Thank you for the kind words! Here to share the info :)
This is a thorough process you've laid out. I really enjoyed it :)
I found it strange what you considered tedious vs easy modifications as I don't find installing switch films nearly as time consuming as opening/lubing the switches. Also, foaming the board isn't that involved, though I get that you meant it in terms of taking the whole board apart.
Tip: Try a 1:1 ratio of Krytox205g0 grease and Krytox105 oil. Its quite nice--and put it on the stabilizers as well, instead of permatex/dielectric grease. You'll be pleasantly surprised! Any plans to build a custom in the future?
Phiz, glad you enjoyed! The filming is certainly something you get faster at over time, I know I have. Mostly trying to look from the perspective of someone completely new to the hobby and what has a high learning curve or risk of failure and what doesn’t.
I’m actually getting ready to experiment some more of lubed and such for a longer term project I’m working up. And yes! I absolutely have 1 custom already done, video in the works, and should have the last parts for mg first soldered build by end of year!
Hey I’m thinking about doing this too but what foam did you use for the dampening? I couldn’t find it.
Yeah, the exact foam I was using doesn’t seem to be sold, but any ~6mm adhesive neoprene foam will do the trick!
Thanks
Excellent video!
Thanks so much!
Loved the video and keeb, but I've gotta say that room painting is incredible! Where'd you get it?
Haha! I was wondering how long it would take someone to notice. It was a gift from a friend, they got it on Etsy from DrunkGirlDesigns. The frame is just the gaudiest one I could find on Amazon.
Very good and informative video! I enjoy that you didnt waste any time explaining everything needed. I had a question: How do you feel about the height of the keyboard and is there any mod you can think of to make the keyboard lower? I'm not too much of a fan of taller keyboards and im not too keen on a wrist mount either. Just wondering what my options are.
nave thanks for the kind words! Human time is precious and I don’t want to waste it.
This is just simply a tall keyboard. When it comes down to it; If you practice proper typing form, hovering your wrists regardless of keyboard height, it’s not an issue. Due to the way this keyboard is architected: It’s just tall. Keychron, I think wisely, went for price optimization over thinness. That being said, I did get to spend some time with one of their low profile K1v4 keyboards and I actually REALLY liked it right out if the box and it comes in a tenkeyless layout that is identical to the K8. Might work for you!
@@_IanOfEarth Thanks for the reply! Interesting thoughts. I'm actually thinking of holding out for the K10. I'm a full size user and I hope the release is soon and I hope the height is good, but Im expecting to be the same height as K8 which is fine, I can deal with it but just exploring other areas.
Hey, I know I'm a bit late to the party but I was planning to do the case foam mod for my K8. I was going to use Butyl tape as well (I can get some double sided sealant type from my local hardware store). Do you have any opinions on whether that's a good idea?
That seems like it would work, to me!
Thank you So much for the video it's going to be really helpful for when I mod my K2!! I was however wondering would you do the foam mod for the K2 or do you reckon that it is a small enough board that it is not needed?
Happy to help! I hope you have a great results.
I would foam it for sure, the K2 is larger than the K6 I did the same mod on, and even on the K6 it's a big improvement.
@@_IanOfEarth Thanks for the reply! I know what il be doing this weekend now then.
Awesome moon theme. You seem like you would appreciate the Omega speedmaster professional.
Kenneth Chong, I am very much a ‘smart watch’ user, but the Speedmasters are GORGEOUS.
Top notch video that.
Thank you!
Do you have a working link to buy the Neoprene foam used in the mod? The one in your K6 video description isn't working for me.
The foam I linked seems to come in and out of stock, any 5mm/0.25” adhesive foam will do though!
Did the neoprene foam you used have adhesive on one side? What was the thickness of the foam? Also, do you have a link to where you bought it? Appreciate it
It was adhesive on one side yes, I had a link but the seller stopped selling it so I don't now. It was 6mm thick! Hope that helps!
I know this video is a bit older, but I hope you still see this comment! I really liked the sound of yours and was wondering if both of those case foam layers were 5mm`?
Closer to 3mm, thanks for watching!
The spacebar getting stuck might be due to one of the stems on the bar being slightly miss aligned and causing drag against the stab.
Knowing what I know now with a few more builds under my belt, I bet you are 100% correct!
This is enormously helpful to me. I am contemplated doing a series of mods on my K8, including installing PCB foam, which requires separating the plate from the PCB. I was unsure whether that was possible without desoldering-thanks to your video, I know that it is, and that I can proceed! Looking forward to doing it. Hey by the way have you ever tried using PCB foam, and if so has it made a difference for you? Thank you!!
It’s only possible if you have the hotswap model, mind you! I have not used PCB foam on this board but I have on some others and it’s a more dampened sound. Up to you if that’s what you want or what you think would make the board better.
@@_IanOfEarth Definitely, yes it's a hotswap! So it should work out. Thanks for your info re PCB foam-am pretty sure that is the effect I am looking for, will see. Interested in checking out your other videos for ideas now, too!
Your video is tremendously helpful, thanks!
Did you cover the battery with one layer of the foam, or did you leave it without for safety reasons?
Also would you recommend re-lubing the gateron brown ones?
Thanks!:)
Bob Senior, I’m glad it holds such value for you!
I did not. I left it uncovered out of an abundance of caution. The rest of the case is so full of foam I’m not sure it would make a lick of different to cover it.
Browns are a tricky call because they are tactile, and if you lube the legs of a tactile switch they lose some of their tactility. Something Browns are already lacking. I’d recommend you lube one, try it, and see how you like it! If you hate it you can put it in the place if an infrequently used key, and if you love it you can do the rest.
Hope that helps!
@@_IanOfEarth it does and thanks for the answer, waiting impatiently for the k8 now!
Have you tried iqunix f96? any thoughts on it? Most reviews online seem to focus on the aesthetics, and the review of the keyboard itself doesn't seem very in-depth.
Taeha did a stream on it, but i think it was aimed at a different audience.
Thanks again!;)
@@johnmoody1642, it's a great board! I hope you love it!!
I have not used that board but I did look in to it some time ago. I'm a 'no numpad' person (or southpaw) so it didn't really appeal to me. Looking at it online and considering the price point I'm willing to bet it'd be pretty similar to the Keychron K4.
@@_IanOfEarth thanks man! Again great video!
Just saw your video and it is really helpful just wondering as K8 has north facing LED is there a problem with Cherry profile keycaps because of interference. I cannot find the info anywhere and I do not want to buy cherry profile and do not use them. Thanks
Some cherry keycaps will have Row 3 collisions, unfortunately it's largely down to the internal geometry of the keycaps. Some don't interfere, some do. Also, if you're going to switch swap, I believe some more modern Gateron switches have modified housings to make interference less likely.
Awesome video! I love the key caps, where did you purchase them?
Mark Mikhail thanks so much! They are item # JM1117 on KBDfans
This is all well and good but WHERE ON EARTH did you get that Tommy Wisau painting I need it right now
Hahahaha, it was a gift! DrunkGirlDesigns on Etsy! And I found the worst frame I could on Amazon.
@@_IanOfEarth It's a thing of absolute beauty that is.
@@DrevorReal I've got 3 Q&A's with him on my channel if you want to watch those too!
Really like the well structured video. Just a question though, would you recommend doing a silicone mold mod here instead of the foam mod? If yes, at what height level would you recommend filling the silicone (e.g., right at the top of standoffs)? I'm worried about reassembling without messing with the power/bt switch and usb c slot. Thanks!
Silicone would work! I would fill it to the “shoulder” of the standoffs. By that I mean the wider part of the stand off where the PCB rests. Maybe just a mm lower than that so there is no contact.
Thanks for your kind words!
@@_IanOfEarth Oh I see, got it. Can't wait to try it myself. Thank you so much for this. As well as the very detailed video. You just earned a sub!
Oh hi Ian!
I just ordered a K8 Brown Hotswap for 80€. Have you had any QC issues?
Nothing to speak of! I admittedly do not use it as a daily, but I have a K6 and K2 in very regular use that are good so far!
Just bought the K8 and K6 today on sale on Amazon Prime Day.
Very nice!! Let me know which you prefer after you get them!
how much was it? just curious
@@zga042 i think 84 bucks it was 5 months ago
cool, I just bought the aluminum K8 hotswap for 108. there still seems to be stock issues
so.... no one gonna mention his space bar is backwards?
Good thing I mentioned it in the video ;)
Added some pudding keycaps to mine and had the exact same issue with the spacebar. I dremelled the crap out of the spacebar thinking that something was binding, but it made no difference. Like you, I put it on upside down and it worked fine! :/ Just looks a little odd...
Warped keycap most likely! Glad you got it working!
I'm trying to change the stabs on my K8, are screw ins not compatible? I see there's no holes in the pcb
Plate mount stabs only on the K8, correct
great in depth video! any idea whether the K4 V2 hotswappable has the same quirks as the K8 with regards to no mounting screws that hold the plate and pcb together?
Thanks so much for your comment and question! That is like one of the very few K series boards I have not tinkered with, but looking at photos I can find I would guess that that is the case, yes.
Thanks Ian!
@@cake146 happy to help! Happy modding!
Ah nice vid. Cheers. Perhaps I have motivation to do this as well on my K8.
Umm ... Are you Wil Wheaton's younger brother? Cause, you got that casting call nailed for sure mate.
Not Public, thanks so much! I hope whatever mods you pick work well for you! I get the Wil Wheaton thing a lot. It is not a comparison I hate ;)
Just picked up a Keychron K8 which is in the mail. I believe the video said 5mm foam correct? Where did you buy yours from?
Just got mine off Amazon. Anything between 4-6mm should work pretty much the same. Many craft stores sell it too. Happy modding!
@@_IanOfEarth Found some foam-- "Sorbothane Acoustic & Vibration Damping Film 40 Duro".
When i go to add this foam, is it necessary to remove all the switches? Or can i get away with just unscrewing all the plates, etc?
@@Black16STI Because of the way these are built, any misalignment might be a problem with getting it back in the case, so if it's not hotswap I'd tread lightly as you may need to take it apart to get it back together.
@@_IanOfEarth Gotcha. Def got the hotswapped board. That said, treading lightly in what sort of sense?
@@Black16STI if its hotswap I'd just take it all apart
Should I get Keychron K8 or GamaKay K87
I've never heard of the GamaKay before, so not too sure! That being said if you don't need wireless and love RGB the GamaKay certainly looks like it would do the job!
Do you have any lower profile keycaps you recommend? The stock keycaps are taller than I'm used to.
The stock caps that Keychron boards come with are OEM profile which is just a little taller than Cherry which is more typical of a profile. So looking for Cherry might be a good place to start! You can also look at www.keycaps.info and easily compare all keycap profiles to see what you might like! Once you land on one you like just do some searching from there to see what you might like. Also note that the Keychron K Series boards are a little taller than the average board, so the caps might be fine and you just need to adjust your typing form a little to hover your wrists slightly higher up.
@@_IanOfEarth Oh wow, that is super helpful! In general, would all of those be compatible if I have the hot swappable version?
@@mundaney generally speaking yes! The Keychron boards all use what are generally called "MX Style Switches" the only thing to look out for is that the kit you land on has the correct lengths of caps, particularly for the shifts and modifiers keys. That being said the K8 has a very generic layout so damn near any kit you find should have you set.
Did you run into any issues with the hex screws to remove the aluminum siding off the frame? They screws dont quite seem to fit either a H1.5 or H2.0
None at all! H1.5 fits perfectly for me.
Stuffling to find an all black PBT UK Iso set of key caps. Will the corsairs/razers own set be good quality?
If it’s anything like the stiff I have seen from them it is very average to meh quality.
@@_IanOfEarth I'll find somewhere else then. I've seen some nice ones that thai hao, but they're grey and not black
@@NotAverageAfro did you see the new set called Charcoal that NovelKeys just put out?
@@_IanOfEarth those do look good! Unfortunately not in available in UK ISO. UK ISO makes everything harder haha
@@NotAverageAfro that it does.. happy hunting!
what is the trick to getting the switches out? I honestly can't pull mine out.
Are you certain your have a hotswap and not a soldered board?
what size screwdriver did u use to take off the aluminum frame?
Hex 1.5 if memory serves!
How do I get the wire out without hurting it from the pcb and case
The USB connection, the battery cable?
Amazing video! I ordered HyperX keycap set in black. I wanted to get Cherry Silent Red but they are sold out everywhere, I don't know where I could get some silent linear switches in Europe.
Noemi L keep an eye out for Silent Alpaca’s to restock, also note that Asian vendors typically have better shipping rates to Europe than American vendors.
@@_IanOfEarth Ooh ok I'll keep that in mind! I need to find some neoprene 3mm. Thank you so much!!
@@noemil2352 Check craft and model shops as well as hardware/home improvement stores! I've seen it and similar products at both.
@@_IanOfEarth I found the neoprene & a lub on Amazon France! Now I'll be on the look for silent alpacas, they are similar to Cherry MX style? Else my keycaps won't fit !
Noemi L the Silent Alpaca’s are MX compatible, you could also look for Silent Blacks and spring swap them if they are too heavy stock.
great video but....you don't hit the spacebar with your thumb??
Luna Gayeski, I do not! And it’s actually more common than you might think!
Great video! Can you share the Etsy link for the caps? Would love to get those for my K8?
www.etsy.com/listing/852191021/moon-landing-keycap-for-cherry-mx-keycap
@@_IanOfEarth Thanks so much!
I love The Undertaker painting
Can’t tell if trolling or don’t know who Tommy Wiseau is 🤣
I just got one of these and I want to foam mod it, but none of my hex screw heads seem to fit in it. What size screwdriver are you using to get them open? 1.5mm and 2mm are too small and too large, respectively. Is it 1/16''?
iug khp9g I used 1.5mm!
@@_IanOfEarth Thanks! Guess I need to get a new 1.5mm then.
iug khp9g try Torx if you have them! Some sloppily made Hex screws sometimes play nicer with Torx
Did you put Dielectric Grease on the bandaids when doing the bandaid mod?
Shoyu, yes I did! A very small amount.
I hope to restock the k8 in the german iso layout soon...
They're pretty good about doing periodic restocks! Patience is a big part of this hobby, haha!
@@_IanOfEarth they have the white one, but i want that aluminium frame!
Any tips were to get cool custom key caps? For Esc key etc
Nerfi Mcnerfnerf there are a lot of great, on-demand artisans on Etsy! Also looking up artisan keycaps on Instagram search is a great way to find makers.
Dat thocc
Only the thocciest for my viewers! 🙏
Keycaps?
KBDFans PBT Dye Sub Keycaps as shown in the sound test captions!
Love the video but the issue I'm having is that my key switches are in so darn tight that I can't remove them... any pointers?
Are you certain you got the hotswap version of the board? If so, try an aftermarket key switch puller as the one that comes with the Keychron is really poor.
When taking the Keyboard apart with also removing all the switches, can you separate the PCB from the plate? I will also try these mods and hope to also be able to take these apart and do something to darken the charging LED which is wayyy to bright.
Yes, once all the switches are out, the plate and PCB are totally independent from each other. I also meant to put some dimming film over the LEDs and totally forgot to.
@@_IanOfEarth that's good news! Thank you for the super quick answer and have a nice and healthy start into 2021!
d3s4ster happy to help! To you too
Is your spacebar on backwards? Looks kinda off
It is indeed inverted! I mention that in the video.
Just curious what that screensaver is in the background?
Jonathan Pierson, that is ‘Drift’ on macOS
Can you recommend a foam I could order immediately?
SpaNk, any 1/8” or 3mm foam would work as well as mine does here. If it’s self adhesive that’s a huge bonus, and neoprene foams seem to be well liked in the community, but there are certainly lots of other options! Do some shopping around with those specs in mind, keep in mind too that a local hobby/craft store or hardware store would likely have that kind of thing too.
From where can I get the key caps ?
They are item # JM1117 on KBDfans
And that's how, for only $300 and nine hours of work, you can make your $80 keyboard sound like a $120 keyboard. :)
It is quite a bit of work indeed, Ryan. Fortunately, this video is 3 years old and now you can buy the K8 Pro which has almost all of these mods already done out of the box and for less money! The hobby has changed a lot and is so much better now.
How did you not get interference with those keycaps?
Wait, they're cherry profiles right?
They are Cherry Profile yes.
@@_IanOfEarth Did you not have interference in the tealios let alone the gat reds?
@@jrlavilla9857 not that I can detect. Those interference issues are largely overblown to be a Cherry geometry problem when it’s typically more of a GMK geometry problem.
@@_IanOfEarth Wow. I hope you're right. I also heard that long stems solve that issue. Perhaps tealios have those long stems, and that you couldn't detect them on the stock gat reds because of the sound they produce make it indistinguishable? I would love all the insight I could get as I'm about to pull the trigger on one of those cherry profiles from KBDfans.
Can you place a brass plate in the k8?
Nexus, huh, had never thought of that. Definitionally, yes you could; But, I do not know of anyone who has made such a plate. The Keychron K8 has status LED’s and a few other things that are non-standard to a TKL, so I’m not even sure if anything off the shelf would work.
@@_IanOfEarth Oh, alright. If possible, I'd like an update on that. It's not necessary however. One last question. Are the Tealious switches heavier than the Gateron red switches or is it just the bottom out that is different?
Nexus, I will not be looking in to brass plate options for the K8, but you are more than welcome to do so!
As for the switches: Gateron only quotes the actuation force and Zeal only quotes the bottom out force. That being said, pushing both on my switch test: I’d guess the Tealios actuation force is a little higher than the Red’s as well as the bottom out force.
Your spacebar is mounted backwards, I hope this comment is helpful
I am aware, thanks for your concern! I explain in the video.
Where did you buy your Krytox 205g0?
This batch came from a seller on ebay! However NovelKeys just restocked so you could get some there!
After watching the sound tests in the video I can't help but think the biggest upgrade you could do to your keyboard would be to learn how to type. Seriously. Your hunt and peck typing was painful to watch, especially with the space bar.
Hahaha, no kidding, I have gotten much better over the last almost 18 months in the hobby now. Interestingly getting an Arisu keyboard is what kind of kicked me in to shape. My right hand is still pretty lazy compared to my left, but getting better!
Index space bar users unite!
Newgz, there are DOZENS of us!
For the life of me, I will never understand why gamers never learned how to properly type on a keyboard.
Osvaldini comfort mostly! It is something I’m working on as I worry about RSI in my right wrist, but it’s kind of an “if it works it works” kinda deal.
By modding it you will void it's warranty
Correct!
just buy k8 pro and save 50% of time
That did not exist at time of this video’s creation, but yes. A lot of the improvements I implemented here are in the Pro.
Dude just tell me if it’s cool or not
Ipawper -, you might enjoy ‘Switch and Clicks’ videos on the K8 or Austin V’s review more than my video if that’s what you’re looking for! Their’s are review style videos and this is a modding guide.
That being said: I personally really like the K8 with Gateron Red switches out of the box. Reds are not my favorite linear switch but they are very usable.
As I mentioned in the video, if I could only change one thing: I’d swap out the keycaps. The ones that come with are pretty thin and putting on more substantial keycaps makes quite a difference in sound and feel. (Sound test in the video.) And I’d also recommend getting the Gateron Hotswap version so when you’re ready for a different switch or want to experiment you can do so without the need for soldering equipment.
@@_IanOfEarth thanks for responding. i was just kidding man, your analysis was over my head so im just calling myself out for being dumb
@@ipawper-6626 Hahaha, in addition to my awful typing form, I am terrible at detecting sarcasm. No worries, my dude!