LONDON STYLE Q & A | PART 1
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- In this video your host discusses viewers questions and the sartorial world with Chris from The British Dapper RUclips Channel.
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I have an excellent solution to problems with the excessive maintenance of linen trousers! Go with a heavyweight linen, at no less than 285 grams, like Fine Irish Linens from W. Bill, which is 380 grams.
That linen fabric for trousers wears like iron, just like for the coat and waistcoat. Plus, this heavyweight linen has an open weave, making it as cool wearing in the summer as the wrinkle prone sub 285 gram linen.
In July and August, a cream linen suit with a blue or pink linen shirt, and a Panama hat, is my go-to outfit. On slightly cooler days, I will wear a light silk or cotton tie, and on the sweltering ones, an open collar with a pocket square in the jacket breast pocket providing a splash of colour.
I own a pair of dark wash denim jeans, which are properly hemmed and fit me well, but at the age of fifty-eight, I seem to find fewer and fewer opportunities to wear them, other than to carry firewood or sort recycling.
With a tweed jacket and brown wingtips, a pair of jeans can look stylish on a cool autumn day, in my opinion.
Good points regarding linen suits in the UK. This is why it's good having two channels from people based in the UK. I've heard American youtube channels (e.g. Gentleman's Gazette) saying cotton suits aren't very breathable in summer, but as Chris at the British Dapper says here in the UK our climate is such that we might actually get the benefit of cotton or cotton wool blends over linen. The same would go for other Northern European climates. Another I suggest is lightweight wool gabardine which, often in lighter earth tones, is often seen by Americans as an odd, "in-between" season suit, but for us it's pretty summery & again well suited to our climate. The best for us is probably tropical worsted wool which again gets criticised for being less breathable than linen or fresco, crispaire etc, but there's a reason we wore it historically
Thank you so much for your exciting answers! And I promise you, I will never wear jeans with a tie 😂
Two fine chaps. Always inspiring, down to earth and entertaining. Good show!
Cheers 👍
two wonderful chaps
I do appreciate these Questions and Answers. In particular as they provide a double input from both gents.
It's great to see the two of you Chaps together again. On the question of linen clothing, I found linen/cotton blend solves the excessive wrinkling problem, so long as the linen is greater than the cotton ratio to keep that linen 'grain' in the fabric. I wear a jeans and blazer occasionally but always team them with a Breton striped crew neck shirt. Collar and tie with jeans is a no-no.
Thanks for sharing!!
I like that look @ 9:23 linen jacket
You can taste the worldly experience coming from 2 middle aged Gents. 🥂
Ash, it was an absolute privilege to share time with yourself and Chris Andrews in London last week.👍 Thank you so much. These additional Q & A's are both informative and entertaining in equal measure. A great idea. Concerning the questions themselves, I bought my very first linen sports jacket late last year. It is off-white and I have also invested in a handheld clothes steamer to help remove the creases it is bound to attract. I look forward to wearing it this summer. Another first time addition to my wardrobe is a pair of traditional plain black braces to go with my vintage dinner suit. What a revelation! Once adjusted to the desired trouser break across my shoes, everything stays perfectly in place for the rest of the day. Wonderful! The braces were purchased from Kirby Allison because I like the additional adjuster on the 'Y' of the back. They are beautifully made, and very comfortable to wear.
John, the privilege was all our and it was a joy to dine with you and hear more of your fascinating life story. I look forward to our next meeting - which I hope will be very soon. Best wishes, Ash
"I don't enjoy any of the process" Very diplomatic Chris! That did make me laugh.
What an entertaining and useful video, thanks chaps.
I wear braces sometimes, depending on the trousers. I've found it's worth having brace buttons sewn in to the waist hem so I can use button braces, clip-ons sometimes ping off and come over my shoulder like a trebuchet. A surprise attack on the person I'm in conversation with!
Over the past decade or so I've noticed the variety of trousers considered jeans has broadened greatly. I'll sometimes wear them with casual outfits because the ones I get from M&S are very dark indigo and not even pure cotton, they've got a bit of stretch for comfort and look far more like flat fronted trousers than the stonewashed 501s that I wore as a student.
As you both know I'm a firm advocate for Crockett & Jones. They went above and beyond to find a last that fitted my high volume, high arch feet many years ago which resulted in the first Oxfords I've ever had that give me all day comfort. Had that pair for years, I wore them yesterday for a few miles around a National Trust property. They're perfect and will probably outlast me.
They do have sales every so often and their staff are well worth meeting, really good people.
Thanks for this collaboration, always a pleasure to watch you both.
Kind regards,
Rob.
I am the paraclete of Kaborka. I have a message... Salvador Dali wants his moustache back.😋
My two favorite You Tub influencers. Thanks for your opinions. Best regards Ron
My pleasure!
Re the linen suit: I would highly recommend you look into tropical wool and similar fabrics such as Fresco wool fabric by J&J Minnis. It is breathable like linen but doesn't crease. Definitely the best summer suiting fabric.
Chinos are too hot for real summer weather.
Interestingly, I belong to a London club that has a strict dress code but during the warmer months this is relaxed somewhat and allow jackets to be removed. But trousers must be either belted or the adjuster straps used. Walking around with braces showing is not allowed.
Years ago it used to be a common observation that the Yanks had a fascination with wearing belts with suits, a situation where the buckle will spoil the line of your jacket/waistcoat. It probably remains the case that if one is lucky enough to own a suit that is nicely tailored, then braces are de rigueur ? As for jackets, keep em on, unless you're active in the billiards room 😃
I am trying to figure out what to wear in summer months (high heat and humidity) so I am looking to linen more. Jeans and tie doesn't work for me, either. I would like to wear jeans less, but it is very casual and that is what my wife prefers, though I won't wear jeans at work at all.
PS: Where do you get the music? I quite enjoy it.
I sometimes wear a pair of Crocket and Jones Tetbury in chocolate brown suede or mid brown smooth leather with a pair of indigo blue(Jacob Cohen) jeans, pastel pink shirt with mid blue linen jacket on semi formal occasion. People always compliment me on my style. I wouldn’t wear a tie though unless I had chinos on.
Trickers are very good barker 👌
But in particular if you're going for used ones, try the second tier manufacturers, like Barker, Grenson, Sanders & Sanders, NPS. As they are not so well known they are less coveted and therefore cheaper.
Totally agree with the answer regarding the braces: white braces on a white shirt are the way to go
I am the second commenter!
I am the second viewer!
How do you feel about bow ties in a casual - smart casual setting? Can you imagine a situation where it could work?
It really depends on the event, but ties are being seen less in such situations these days.
If the jeans are the same color as the sportscoat, it's fine. I wear them with broughs
One can wear any braces that are not the kind worn by Larry King, Robin Williams or any actor in any film or tv show from the 1980s. In other words, the kind that would have been worn until the 1950s.
I have a couple of weddings coming up this year, I have a black suit & nice shoes to wear but my question relates to my watch. I have a grey Seamaster 300 which I’m very proud of. Do I wear that or change the bracelet to a blue rubber one or should I buy an Orient Bambino?
Well, traditional would dictate a dress watch (i.e. with a leather strap) and as such, the Bambino is a superb choice (and modestly prices too). But in this modern era, a steel Omega will be perfectly acceptable and probably the best watch in the room.
Thanks Ash, I watch your videos regularl. I’ve even bought a hat & those really nice slippers from Drappers! You help us chaps more than you can imagine. I’ll keep on trying for chap nirvana.
Everyone wears braces! It's a mainstay of the hipster class.
I wear red braces. I WANT them to stand out.
The only man qualified to wear the jeans/blazer/tie combo is Robert Redford ( 3 Days of the Condor) and I’m pretty certain none of you are him. 😂👊
Everybody wore this combination in the 90's 😄
Plus Ralph Lauren of course
I've seen young men wear braces. Not much of a generation gap that I could see.
Sorry, I just can't get past that guy's mustache.