I spent close to 3 hrs (collectively) filing microns off the hardy hole to fit my new tools. Figured widening was 1 and done so I didn’t have to grind every new tool.
As always very informative. Thanks for the information. I also live in Colorado so from the peaks to the plains. Keep the forge hot and hammer swinging.
Nice video and I appreciate your comments on various ways to address the issue. I have heard of people using the welding bead down the side to take the sloppy fit out of trailer hitches.
Perfect content as it applies to me century plus Anvil. Haven't mic the hole but nothing fits just right. Supposed to be 1in but 1 in flops a good bit. Now I have real smith varification of the process I need to use Thank you Mr John 🙏 God bless, well wishes Sir, possitive energy your way Crawford out 🔥⚒️🧙🏼♂️
Very informational video! Personally all of my hardy tool but 2 I got with my anvil are ones I’ve made to 1inch square and dont for see needing to resize everything thank god
I saw a video (Joey Van Deer Steng if I recall) that recommended duct tape to "fill" a hardy shank. It's possibly not the "best" solution, but it can sometimes be the most expedient. It did work surprisingly well.
Very informative video & VERY nice anvil. It is a big wonder to me why anvil makers couldn't/didn't/never standardized hardy hole dimensions. I mean is they were aiming at 3/4" for an opening why didn't they hit it exactly (or mill it to 3/4 before hardening) instead of being off 1/8" or more either way? Oh well, it is what it is, such are the facts of life. Thanks for posting.
Hello 19 y/o from South Africa here. Thought it's about time for me to thank you for all your amazing videos. Been watching for about 3 to 4 years and your videos got me into blacksmithing in 2019 when I was 17. Since then I've managed to make myself a coal forge from scratch that can get steel up to welding heat. I've gotten an old messed up anvil +-80kg (massive for a beginner) and fixed up the edges with hard facing welding rods over time. And now I'm at a point where I've made a few pairs of tongs, miscellaneous chisels and punches and I'm starting to make small products to sell at my residence at University. That's the beauty of blacksmithing, even for an academic man like myself it can provide the uttermost fun and allow you to unwind and escape from the studies a bit on the weekends! I am TRULY grateful to you for introducing me to this wonderful craft and for providing all your subscribers with all the knowledge and know how to create their own blacksmithing setups from scratch.
Beat me to it. Dynabrade is the best way to go. Electric or pneumatic. Got mine used for $45 (talked him down from $50) at an estate sale in the '90's. Other than a replacement nose wheel with bearings ($12.00 iirc on their website) and a pneumatic rebuild kit with airtool lube ($5 at a yard sale) , the belts are inexpensive on Amazon by the dozen. Have used it at least 40 hours in 25+ years. Well worth my investment and VERY USEFULL! 🐾🔥⚒
@@stanervin6108 I got an 5.3 amp Chicago electric from harbor freight to remove the weld seam in 2x2 1/4 wall pipe when I built my belt grinder. For 30$ it works really good. Pneumatic is the better option if possible. End higher quality is worth it but if it’s only gonna be used now and again I think it’s a great deal. Lots of power and feels decent. I’m going to upgrade eventually.
Excellent video on ways to fit oversized and undersized tools to hardy holes...and folks, don't forget the pritchel hole tools either for those who use it for some anvil tools. John, is your hardy hole deep like the pritchel hole?...thinking it might be used for some type of holddown.
As a blacksmith in training this has helped alot but I have a question, in theory couldn't you heat up the hardy tool's base in the forge then knock them into the hole to resize them or would that cause too much damage to the tools/anvil themselves? (Just curious to know if its possible with certain tools)
The trouble is that you would then need to re harden and temper all of those tools. Not bad if you know what the steel is, but if its a bunch of old tools from different sources, each on would require some trial and error to get right.
@@BlackBearForge Ah right, that makes sense, I'll keep that in mind as I was planning on making my own tools so if needs must then I can alter them with the added bonus of knowing what kind of steel I used so I know what I have to do, thank you for the heads-up.
Since Combat Abrasive is a sponsor, how about a video on the different grits and belt types you use. I don’t know how much fine grinding or polishing you do but that information would be useful also.
Chaque enclume sa particularité,ainsi la mienne dispose un trou carré oblique; impossible d'enmencher les outils dans les 4 positions,donc obligé de repérer le sens de mise en place unique(enclume autrichienne de 200kgs)
Understand that John, preserve the integrity of the antiques! I upsized my anvil a while ago, had to resize a few tools but none were antiques, less commonly used I left alone, just the important ones!
Have an old cut off hardy that was too loose , heated up some square tube and jammed it on to the shank , as it cooled off , it shrank and made a tight fit Some grinding and filing and now it fits hardy hole snuggly. No welding. Love you videos and have learned much , even from Roy :)
I like this new anvil. It always happen wen we upgrade lot of adjustment to be done.new anvil have that small rack where u put ur hammers and brush for fast use??
My holland anvil’s hardie hole was atrocious, it had casting flashing in all four corners. I ended up having to forge a broach and pounding that through the hardie hole. That left it a bit “sticky” on a hardie shank so I ended up cleaning it up with sandpaper backed by a triangle file to make it smooth.
Thanks for the video, John. Out of interest, in Europe we refer to the “side face” as a buttress. Refflinghaus make anvils with or without, and they are very nice too.
When I got my new anvil, with much larger hardy hole, none of my old hardy tools fitted, but instead of modifying them or replacing them, I now use my swage block to hold my hardy tools when I need to use them. Works perfectly for me, as I have the room and my swage block has always lived right next to my anvil..
I moved from a 30 mm hardy hole anvil to a 25 mm hole in a Kanca anvil and had to resize all my hardy tools so I know the process. One hardy tool I find very useful is a cutting plate. Another useful tool for anvils with Pritchel and hardy holes at opposite ends is a bolster which goes over the hardy hole and pivots from the pritchel hole, the pritchel becoming the hardy in this case. Peter (Western Australia)
I have found that for some of my hardy tools that don't fit the anvil and are something I don't want to modify the shank on,most of the time I can find a square hole in my swadge block that fits. Just another option. Thanks for the great videos, keep them coming.
Hi John, a question I was having. With the new anvil can you use the holdfast like before? Or did you have to alter it to fit the new pritchel hole? I want to forge one myself for my south german anvil.
No, I don't think holdfasts will be a good option for this anvil. It is so thick at the pritchel hole it will be difficult to achieve a good hole. I haven't come up with an alternative yet.
It's amazing what you put up with John , Now that I have watched this video I will fix some of my hardy tools and stop chasing them in circles. Hay John my Wife calls your channel the Inspiration channel , This is one of the many things I agree with . Cheers . :)
Ahhhhh the age old bunny trail tool making to make other tools 😏 man I've been there done that and I'm going back this week 😆
I spent close to 3 hrs (collectively) filing microns off the hardy hole to fit my new tools. Figured widening was 1 and done so I didn’t have to grind every new tool.
As always very informative. Thanks for the information. I also live in Colorado so from the peaks to the plains. Keep the forge hot and hammer swinging.
Thank You John for the great tips and chat... Be well...
Nice video and I appreciate your comments on various ways to address the issue. I have heard of people using the welding bead down the side to take the sloppy fit out of trailer hitches.
supporting anvil ... nice south german anvil type ... small side face anvil called in german Voramboss.
i have one 300lb or 150kg.
A call to action for those of us that have been living with marginal tools.
Perfect content as it applies to me century plus Anvil. Haven't mic the hole but nothing fits just right. Supposed to be 1in but 1 in flops a good bit. Now I have real smith varification of the process I need to use
Thank you Mr John
🙏 God bless, well wishes Sir, possitive energy your way
Crawford out 🔥⚒️🧙🏼♂️
Comment to help with the alogarythim.
Another good video, thanks John.
Thanks for that
Very nice mods to the hardy tooling to fit the new anvil, well worth the time.
Getting all the helper dies to fit will make for a smoother days work.
Less cussing and more making! ✌
Very informational video! Personally all of my hardy tool but 2 I got with my anvil are ones I’ve made to 1inch square and dont for see needing to resize everything thank god
I saw a video (Joey Van Deer Steng if I recall) that recommended duct tape to "fill" a hardy shank. It's possibly not the "best" solution, but it can sometimes be the most expedient. It did work surprisingly well.
I feel good to see that you are tightening up your tools. Please tighten up the post vice next! You do a terrific job. Thank you.
I loved it John. I know what I need to do...
Very informative video & VERY nice anvil. It is a big wonder to me why anvil makers couldn't/didn't/never standardized hardy hole dimensions. I mean is they were aiming at 3/4" for an opening why didn't they hit it exactly (or mill it to 3/4 before hardening) instead of being off 1/8" or more either way? Oh well, it is what it is, such are the facts of life. Thanks for posting.
Thanks, John. Valuable info.
Hello John
Thank you for your Video
Take care stay safe
Yours Frank
Hello 19 y/o from South Africa here. Thought it's about time for me to thank you for all your amazing videos. Been watching for about 3 to 4 years and your videos got me into blacksmithing in 2019 when I was 17. Since then I've managed to make myself a coal forge from scratch that can get steel up to welding heat. I've gotten an old messed up anvil +-80kg (massive for a beginner) and fixed up the edges with hard facing welding rods over time. And now I'm at a point where I've made a few pairs of tongs, miscellaneous chisels and punches and I'm starting to make small products to sell at my residence at University. That's the beauty of blacksmithing, even for an academic man like myself it can provide the uttermost fun and allow you to unwind and escape from the studies a bit on the weekends! I am TRULY grateful to you for introducing me to this wonderful craft and for providing all your subscribers with all the knowledge and know how to create their own blacksmithing setups from scratch.
It sounds like you're off to a great start. I am glad the videos have been helpful
Great video, thank you.
Hi I have been working on my anvil hardyhole filing it to fit my hardy tool
It is a track anvil
For the cast seams in the hardy hole a 1/2x18” electric bandfile should be able to get down in there to grind out that seam
Beat me to it. Dynabrade is the best way to go. Electric or pneumatic. Got mine used for $45 (talked him down from $50) at an estate sale in the '90's. Other than a replacement nose wheel with bearings ($12.00 iirc on their website) and a pneumatic rebuild kit with airtool lube ($5 at a yard sale) , the belts are inexpensive on Amazon by the dozen. Have used it at least 40 hours in 25+ years. Well worth my investment and VERY USEFULL! 🐾🔥⚒
@@stanervin6108 I got an 5.3 amp Chicago electric from harbor freight to remove the weld seam in 2x2 1/4 wall pipe when I built my belt grinder. For 30$ it works really good. Pneumatic is the better option if possible. End higher quality is worth it but if it’s only gonna be used now and again I think it’s a great deal. Lots of power and feels decent. I’m going to upgrade eventually.
Wouldn't it be cleaner to push the tubing all the way on the hardy tool shank and then plug weld the bottom?
Excellent video on ways to fit oversized and undersized tools to hardy holes...and folks, don't forget the pritchel hole tools either for those who use it for some anvil tools.
John, is your hardy hole deep like the pritchel hole?...thinking it might be used for some type of holddown.
Yes they are are both about 5"
As a blacksmith in training this has helped alot but I have a question, in theory couldn't you heat up the hardy tool's base in the forge then knock them into the hole to resize them or would that cause too much damage to the tools/anvil themselves? (Just curious to know if its possible with certain tools)
The trouble is that you would then need to re harden and temper all of those tools. Not bad if you know what the steel is, but if its a bunch of old tools from different sources, each on would require some trial and error to get right.
@@BlackBearForge Ah right, that makes sense, I'll keep that in mind as I was planning on making my own tools so if needs must then I can alter them with the added bonus of knowing what kind of steel I used so I know what I have to do, thank you for the heads-up.
John, did you make you belt sander, or was it a purchase?
The one I was showing in this video is a Wilton Square Wheel
Since Combat Abrasive is a sponsor, how about a video on the different grits and belt types you use. I don’t know how much fine grinding or polishing you do but that information would be useful also.
Great suggestion!
Chaque enclume sa particularité,ainsi la mienne dispose un trou carré oblique; impossible d'enmencher les outils dans les 4 positions,donc obligé de repérer le sens de mise en place unique(enclume autrichienne de 200kgs)
John, how can I make a small anvil bigger? you’ve shown how to make tooling smaller or bigger shanked but what about the anvil 😜😂😂😂😂
👍😎👍
⚒ I luv the path
Your on:
Horseshoe Rasp =
Snake
👀
👅
You might try a 1/2" belt sander to get rid of that seam in the Hardy hole
A weld in the bottom of the square tube to the bottom of the hardy shank would hold it together without the need to grind the weld down.
My Fontanni anvil should be arriving the end of this month. I cant wait. I am glad to hear you like yours.
Luckily, I didn't have but one hardy tool for my ASO Nancy, so I get to make all new tools for Bambina, my new 30kg anvil.
Understand that John, preserve the integrity of the antiques! I upsized my anvil a while ago, had to resize a few tools but none were antiques, less commonly used I left alone, just the important ones!
Have an old cut off hardy that was too loose , heated up some square tube and jammed it on to the shank , as it cooled off , it shrank and made a tight fit Some grinding and filing and now it fits hardy hole snuggly. No welding. Love you videos and have learned much , even from Roy :)
I like this new anvil. It always happen wen we upgrade lot of adjustment to be done.new anvil have that small rack where u put ur hammers and brush for fast use??
I haven't put it back on yet. But I will be adding some tool racks for my most used punches and chisels
My holland anvil’s hardie hole was atrocious, it had casting flashing in all four corners. I ended up having to forge a broach and pounding that through the hardie hole. That left it a bit “sticky” on a hardie shank so I ended up cleaning it up with sandpaper backed by a triangle file to make it smooth.
Thanks for the video, John. Out of interest, in Europe we refer to the “side face” as a buttress. Refflinghaus make anvils with or without, and they are very nice too.
Thanks for the info!
When I got my new anvil, with much larger hardy hole, none of my old hardy tools fitted, but instead of modifying them or replacing them, I now use my swage block to hold my hardy tools when I need to use them. Works perfectly for me, as I have the room and my swage block has always lived right next to my anvil..
Great video John, lots of good information and how to adapt in your videos as usual. Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
Excellent video again. Your tidbits of alternate ideas as you work are always gems.
I appreciate the video and all the info, thanks John!
Man John I sure like that anvil 👍🇺🇸
I moved from a 30 mm hardy hole anvil to a 25 mm hole in a Kanca anvil and had to resize all my hardy tools so I know the process. One hardy tool I find very useful is a cutting plate. Another useful tool for anvils with Pritchel and hardy holes at opposite ends is a bolster which goes over the hardy hole and pivots from the pritchel hole, the pritchel becoming the hardy in this case. Peter (Western Australia)
I've been waiting for you to make this video. Your new anvil was calling out for better fitting Hardy tools
Thanks John. Your the man
It's so good to see you adapting your hardy tools for your new anvil. What about your guillotine tools? Do they work well with your new anvil?
The hardy shank had to be ground down to fit
I have found that for some of my hardy tools that don't fit the anvil and are something I don't want to modify the shank on,most of the time I can find a square hole in my swadge block that fits. Just another option.
Thanks for the great videos, keep them coming.
I think my swage block was European. All of the holes are odd sizes and nothing the same as any of my hardy tools.
Hi John, a question I was having. With the new anvil can you use the holdfast like before? Or did you have to alter it to fit the new pritchel hole? I want to forge one myself for my south german anvil.
No, I don't think holdfasts will be a good option for this anvil. It is so thick at the pritchel hole it will be difficult to achieve a good hole. I haven't come up with an alternative yet.
I was going to as the same question. My pritchell hole is 7/8 and 4” deep and I’ve been unsuccessful with a holdfast on this anvil so far....
It's amazing what you put up with John , Now that I have watched this video I will fix some of my hardy tools and stop chasing them in circles.
Hay John my Wife calls your channel the Inspiration channel , This is one of the many things I agree with . Cheers . :)
Hope you don't mind me skipping the 46:06 ad about obesity, diabetes, and proper fiber in the diet. I've seen it before.