I’ve been a casual enjoyer of smithing content, and this is probably my favorite channel so far. Gives me really strong nostalgia for This Old House and other sort of handyman shows from when I was a kid. I also had no idea power hammers existed, but I love it.
Thanks for sharing! Beautifully made Bick-iron/post anvil! Also, it's not the tools that make the blacksmith, but the smith that makes the tools. Please always feel free to use whatever materials, tools, and skills you have at your disposal. You always make great videos, and I always enjoy your work.
I have some live traps I built over 20 years ago with concrete rebar frames welded with 6011 rod. Not 1 weld has ever broken. I even ran over 1 with a tractor I had forgotten down by the pond, hidden in tall grass I was brush hogging. believe it or not the rebar bent all up but the welds stayed intact 😂. First welding project I ever attempted, and now I would have used bar stock not rebar.
For the first upset, I've done similar on several occasions with a plate on the floor. "Upsetting plate" I've heard it called. Forget where I got the idea from. Picked up a disk about 10" round by 1 1/4" thick that sits on the floor adjacent my forge. Thumping the heated end down onto the plate letting the weight of the piece and the distance of the drop do much of the work goes pretty slick. I'm not a power hammer hater -- and, yes, envious but my shop simply doesn't have the floor that would tolerate a power hammer -- so I have picked up other tricks. I also tend to work a short bevel all around the end to be upset, seems to keep things straighter and the upsetting seems more efficient. Always enjoy your work and get many ideas.
Leaving the bar long and upsetting on a block would have been much easier. I have several blocks just for that purpose and keep meaning to mount on permanently next to the anvil
Well done John. It came out looking real good. I saw you had commented on Doc's video. He does a lot of forge welding. I can't believe some of the things I see him forge weld together. He is good at it.
John, the next time you need to upset a shank like this one, try welding the collar onto it first, then let the anvil hold the shank steady when hammering. That might be less aggravating than the shank bouncing around, I think. I'll also go check out Doc'sHotshop & forge to see his build!
Do you have a block or jack you can put under your hardy hole so you can put the bar into it to help hold it to reduce the bounce & just keep it from moving around while you are hitting it. A screw jack would probably work best for the adjustability and it would be more solid since it doesn't have a cushion of hydraulic oil under it.
“If wishes were horses, beggars would ride” as my gran used to say John. You need to do the forge welded version soon or you’ll get to the end of it and say, ‘with all the time and effort I’ve put in, maybe welding would have been faster after all’😁 Great video as always, so calm and reassuring. I bet you could get chased through your woods by an swarm of angry wasps yet still be calm and positive throughout.👍
John - a tip about grinding belts - everyone on youtube seems to be obsessed with ONLY grinding with grinding belts, that slag is always harder than any belt, so just zing over it first with a decent grinding disc before using the belt, i dont understand why everyone on youtube is obsessed with always using grinding belts - same goes for using sanding discs on the grinder, hit it first with a grinding disc
I would love to be friends with a blacksmith. I'm a carpenter but there's always the odd tools and do-dads I'd like to make. I wish I had a 2 week access to a blacksmiths shop. You're a pretty good teacher and I like the fact you show your mistakes as well. The world won't end if you make an error. Good videos and good work sir.✌
Lovely stake anvil, and if needed awesome unique style of cross pein hammer if push comes to shove. Makes me wonder if you could have used a band saw yo split a peice of bar stock down the middle then forge it from a T shape so it could be all one peice.
As you said at the beginning of the video, this was a bit of a trial and you wanted to work out what gorge welds would be best to use etc., so don't worry that it was partly fabricated. It looks great and you will be able to see if you like the shape and we get to look farward to a more traditional build in the future 😊👍
@@BlackBearForge sadly I don't have the link but it was you talking about your anvil so I thought I'd check you out, I love your work. Keep up the great work, if I find the link I'll send it to you.
Hi John Another great vid. That idea of keeping snow outside your workshop for quenching etc seems really good but I dont think its likely to catch on here in Australia. BTW I liked the music in the closing part of the video but couldn't find a reference to it. Any chance a link please? Thanks
The music was Pembroke Pines by Walt Adams. It is sourced through Epidemic Sound which is a subscription service. www.epidemicsound.com/music/search/?term=pembroke%20pines Without an account, the link may not work
Great video, I have a Idea for a future video “Making a caltrop” I’m 16 turning 17 this year and you have greatly inspired me getting better at smithing, damage prevention and technique. Bless you and your wife from Sweden 🇸🇪 and keep on hammering
Legit question- why wouldn't you upset the bar by placing the hot part on the anvil and hammering the back? Using the rebound and force up from the anvil to assist in the shaping, and not losing the bounce energy...
Yes I'm jealous that I don't have one ! But it doesn't mean I'm a hater over 30 + years running big hammers and presses, miss it even though I'm no longer in shape to run them anymore! Something about controlling a machine like that!
Great vid as always John. Question for you though:- Any reason when you upset, you had the hot/upsetting end upright and hitting direct with the hammer, instead of having the hot end on the anvil and striking the cold end? Regards from the UK.
Great video. I liked the voice over, but I wouldn't mind se some amateur velding as well. I find it more educational if I'm watching some one who makes small mistakes and correct them, then watching a expert doing something flawless.
Cool looking tool! I have a couple questions, would it have been easier to upset the first piece by quenching the bar and leaving the last inch or two hot the putting the hot side to the anvil and beating on the cold? Second would it be worth while to fabricate something to keep the tool from bouncing around or out of the hardy? Keep up the good work and we'll keep watching.
I swear I saw someone make a similar stake anvil by upsetting the end like you did, then forging it into a shouldered tenon so it could be riveted into the mortise through the top piece. The whole thing was then forge-welded solid. I don't know if it was then topped with a piece of high-carbon alloy, but I think that would have been easier than using a solid chunk of high-carbon alloy for the top piece. Wonderful build, though. I have a stake similar to that and have been waiting on a buddy of mine to send me a piece of grader blade for the top. Like you note, it'll always look like it was welded up with a stick welder, but it's a tool to get the job done and I can always give the "hard way" a try on the next one!
I've searched through your videos using the propane forge and haven't found an answer to a pressing question. When forge welding in the propane forge. Does the flux eat up the insides of your forge? How do you protect the forge from the flux? Is this a pressing problem? I've avoided forge welding attempts in my propane forge for fear of the effects of flux on it. Thanks again for your great videos.
Flux can be very hard on the floor of a gas forge. My current forge uses hard fire brick and is holding up better than most ruclips.net/video/HuFXhYR-vDc/видео.html
@@BlackBearForge Thanks for your reply and for the link to the video. I'm not sure how I missed that. It answered my question in great detail. Thanks again.
That's something that I will attempt to make. A question, if it's alright... I have been gifted several mower blades. Will heating to temp, coating with charcoal dust, folding ( a'la Japanese sward smith), and forge welding add enough carbon to make a descent blade ? Just something I've been thinking on.
Thanks John, another great video and very timely for me - I’ve been planning on making one of these myself. In hindsight do you think it’d make it any easier to upset the top if you weld the Hardy hole stops on to the shank at the very start to hold the shank in the Hardy hole while you upset it?
I do enjoy anything Blacksmith with you teaching Sir, Thanks and when my two pieces of steel bond and never separate I call it welded. Thanks for the teaching,Sir.
Nice. I don't have easy access to vermiculite, though I do have quite a bit of perlite. Would perlite do a good enough job in comparison to vermiculite?
It turned out pretty good, l made a smaller shorter one last year and made it totally out of O1 tool steel. It took me a long time but l think that it was worth it. I never thought of fabricating it. Also, what rod did you use for the mixing of metals. In my previous job we used a 707 certainium rod.
So far its been great and it still has the original blade in it.. Of course it isn't a tool I use every day, So if you use a saw lots, the blade is bound to wear out sooner
I have joined several blacksmithing forums, and people are constantly asking about anvils. However I do not often see anyone talking about stake anvils. Is there a disadvantage to using a stake anvil in blacksmithing?
The only real issues with stake anvils are size and weight. but for light work or to fit in tight areas they can be very useful. Early iron age anvils were usually quite small
@@BlackBearForge good to know, thanks! I see bladesmiths tack Damascus but cut off the welds. I just didn’t know if it could be forge welded into a piece since carbon content would not be a factor. Good to have a pro to ask.
@@BlackBearForge ifunny.co/video/cBVmrl9Q8?s=cl there you are sir. Thank-you very much for the response. I hope you have a wonderful weekend. Be safe and stay healthy 😀
I will start by saying that I'm not a blacksmith. YET. I am one of the youngest people to pass the AWS CWI test. I am impressed by your work. I think that it would be easier to use a fullering die to widen the stump of the anvil without as much extra work maintaining the width of the post. This will give you really good gussets without the extra forging time and costs. Thank you for all that you provide to us,the public, with your content.
VERY neat project Sir. Have plans to make 2 ea of 2 different styles. Been talking with Mr Rob Robbinette about it. ⚠️Scrap smith warning⚠️ ⚠️ LoL I aquired a mono leaf leaf spring from a 18 wheeler truck. 2.5 x 3.5 stock most likely to be in 5160 class. Think it'll make a good bicker. Would be a kuul project any how
Some feel its not true to the craft (even though big water powered hammers were in use hundreds of years ago) and some only want to see things done using the same type of tools and equipment they have in their own shop.
Use that power hammer you are a professional blacksmith. Im sure those guys moving dirt for a living are using a loader and not just a shovel. Pro use the tools they need to get the job done. Love the channel John.
I don't understand why people don't like powerhammers. I find them quite interesting, but I would like to find an old steam hammer to use or take apart to learn more about. Those old things were engineering marvels back when they were first produced.
"To all you power hammer haters" hahah as a power hammer hater myself i know that only people who dont have power hammer hate it. Awesome project by the way
I understand the desire to "do it like a blacksmith," and give it an authentic hand forged feel. But, I think some that complain about powerhammers, welders, possibly even grinders, need to realize "authentic blacksmiths" from before welders, hand grinders, powerhammers and the like, would have built them, if they could. Blacksmiths were the cornerstone of progress....making new tools to make jobs easier. Isn't that how we went from beating a hot bloom on a rock, with a rock, to using a hammer and anvil, instead? Hahahahahaha
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/blackbearforge02211
"....Just because you own a welder, doesn't make you a welder " Words of wisdom. Thanks John.
It’s so refreshing to see a man, just a regular man named John.
A grinder and paint makes you the welder you ain't lol
Nice of you to mention Doc. His channel is cool and may now get more traffic due to your shout-out...
I hope so!
I’ve been a casual enjoyer of smithing content, and this is probably my favorite channel so far. Gives me really strong nostalgia for This Old House and other sort of handyman shows from when I was a kid.
I also had no idea power hammers existed, but I love it.
Me: needs a tool, makes a small drift
John: needs a tool, makes AN ANVIL
Nice shoutout to Doc's Hotshop and Forge, a very cool small channel that needs some love.
At the start of today, I'd never have guessed it would bring me here. Very good watch
Fantastic work John, I've worked in Fabrication since I was a teen, now 40 years later I'm seriously being drawn to smithing
Thanks for sharing! Beautifully made Bick-iron/post anvil! Also, it's not the tools that make the blacksmith, but the smith that makes the tools. Please always feel free to use whatever materials, tools, and skills you have at your disposal. You always make great videos, and I always enjoy your work.
I have some live traps I built over 20 years ago with concrete rebar frames welded with 6011 rod. Not 1 weld has ever broken. I even ran over 1 with a tractor I had forgotten down by the pond, hidden in tall grass I was brush hogging. believe it or not the rebar bent all up but the welds stayed intact 😂. First welding project I ever attempted, and now I would have used bar stock not rebar.
For the first upset, I've done similar on several occasions with a plate on the floor. "Upsetting plate" I've heard it called. Forget where I got the idea from. Picked up a disk about 10" round by 1 1/4" thick that sits on the floor adjacent my forge. Thumping the heated end down onto the plate letting the weight of the piece and the distance of the drop do much of the work goes pretty slick. I'm not a power hammer hater -- and, yes, envious but my shop simply doesn't have the floor that would tolerate a power hammer -- so I have picked up other tricks. I also tend to work a short bevel all around the end to be upset, seems to keep things straighter and the upsetting seems more efficient. Always enjoy your work and get many ideas.
Leaving the bar long and upsetting on a block would have been much easier. I have several blocks just for that purpose and keep meaning to mount on permanently next to the anvil
Very nice project great video and job. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work John. Forge On. God Bless.
Hallo, schönes Video und gut gemacht du wirst sicherlich viel Freude an deinem neuen Werkzeug haben
Well done John. It came out looking real good. I saw you had commented on Doc's video. He does a lot of forge welding. I can't believe some of the things I see him forge weld together. He is good at it.
He is really a very good smith and not afraid to tackle tough jobs.
Thanks John, nice tool!
Great
John, the next time you need to upset a shank like this one, try welding the collar onto it first, then let the anvil hold the shank steady when hammering. That might be less aggravating than the shank bouncing around, I think. I'll also go check out Doc'sHotshop & forge to see his build!
I would have done it the other way around... I mean the hot part against the anvil... Don't know why but I feel it would be easier
Looks awesome John, doc has certainly put some effort into his post anvil.
Nice job John, Enjoyed. I also follow Doc.
Good one, I'll have to check out that other site.
Do you have a block or jack you can put under your hardy hole so you can put the bar into it to help hold it to reduce the bounce & just keep it from moving around while you are hitting it. A screw jack would probably work best for the adjustability and it would be more solid since it doesn't have a cushion of hydraulic oil under it.
Interesting idea.
Hello John
Thanks for the Video
The tool you make is a fine one nothing you get bored of .
Take care a good new week
Yours Frank
Yeah I just watched doc's on that, it was frustrating!!
“If wishes were horses, beggars would ride” as my gran used to say John. You need to do the forge welded version soon or you’ll get to the end of it and say, ‘with all the time and effort I’ve put in, maybe welding would have been faster after all’😁
Great video as always, so calm and reassuring. I bet you could get chased through your woods by an swarm of angry wasps yet still be calm and positive throughout.👍
John - a tip about grinding belts - everyone on youtube seems to be obsessed with ONLY grinding with grinding belts, that slag is always harder than any belt, so just zing over it first with a decent grinding disc before using the belt, i dont understand why everyone on youtube is obsessed with always using grinding belts - same goes for using sanding discs on the grinder, hit it first with a grinding disc
Looks like a fun project goal for my list. Nice work!
I would love to be friends with a blacksmith. I'm a carpenter but there's always the odd tools and do-dads I'd like to make. I wish I had a 2 week access to a blacksmiths shop. You're a pretty good teacher and I like the fact you show your mistakes as well. The world won't end if you make an error. Good videos and good work sir.✌
Great tool and video!
Can't wait for the new anvil video.
Coming soon!
I was making a tool for my Hardy hole and you give me some advice. Putting that bevel in that collar really helped. Just wanted to say thank you
Glad I could help
Lovely stake anvil, and if needed awesome unique style of cross pein hammer if push comes to shove. Makes me wonder if you could have used a band saw yo split a peice of bar stock down the middle then forge it from a T shape so it could be all one peice.
I have seen it done, but it seems very likely to leave cold shut on the inderside
I shined up real nice John, great little project, or maybe not that little...
As you said at the beginning of the video, this was a bit of a trial and you wanted to work out what gorge welds would be best to use etc., so don't worry that it was partly fabricated. It looks great and you will be able to see if you like the shape and we get to look farward to a more traditional build in the future 😊👍
Nothing wrong with using modern and traditional techniques. Thanks for showing both
Another great teaching video, John. Thanks
Thank you ifunny
I assume ifunny posted something of mine but I can't find it. Do you happen to have a link
@@BlackBearForge sadly I don't have the link but it was you talking about your anvil so I thought I'd check you out, I love your work. Keep up the great work, if I find the link I'll send it to you.
The link to your second channel doesn't work in the description area.
Quick question: since the post was mild steel, why not cool all but the top few inches before going to the press?
Hi you could drill a hole in the bick and shaft put a steel rod and then weld it solid
Hi John
Another great vid.
That idea of keeping snow outside your workshop for quenching etc seems really good but I dont think its likely to catch on here in Australia.
BTW I liked the music in the closing part of the video but couldn't find a reference to it. Any chance a link please?
Thanks
The music was Pembroke Pines by Walt Adams. It is sourced through Epidemic Sound which is a subscription service. www.epidemicsound.com/music/search/?term=pembroke%20pines Without an account, the link may not work
@@BlackBearForge Thanks for the quick response Mate. Its appreciated.
As is all of your output.
Alistair
NEW ANVIL. looks awesome.!!!!!
Congrats …..Paul 👏👍🔥⚒🇺🇸
I would love to buy one of these little guys from you.
I’m afraid its not something I make for sale.
Great video, I have a Idea for a future video “Making a caltrop”
I’m 16 turning 17 this year and you have greatly inspired me getting better at smithing, damage prevention and technique. Bless you and your wife from Sweden 🇸🇪 and keep on hammering
Legit question- why wouldn't you upset the bar by placing the hot part on the anvil and hammering the back? Using the rebound and force up from the anvil to assist in the shaping, and not losing the bounce energy...
Looks good, and doc's videos are really good, and he really gets into some interesting projects for sure.
LOVE the power hammer!! My guess is that the majority of the “haters” are just jealous 🤪 they don’t have one, I know I’m jealous!! LOVE your videos 🚂
Yes I'm jealous that I don't have one ! But it doesn't mean I'm a hater over 30 + years running big hammers and presses, miss it even though I'm no longer in shape to run them anymore! Something about controlling a machine like that!
Great vid as always John. Question for you though:-
Any reason when you upset, you had the hot/upsetting end upright and hitting direct with the hammer, instead of having the hot end on the anvil and striking the cold end?
Regards from the UK.
Mostly to keep the anvil from cooling the work too much
@@BlackBearForge That makes so much sense, and obvious too. Thanks.
That is a nice piece good-looking as well something that I been wanting to make when I get the opportunity
I say this so many times with your videos... I need to make one of these
Great video. I liked the voice over, but I wouldn't mind se some amateur velding as well. I find it more educational if I'm watching some one who makes small mistakes and correct them, then watching a expert doing something flawless.
Cool looking tool! I have a couple questions, would it have been easier to upset the first piece by quenching the bar and leaving the last inch or two hot the putting the hot side to the anvil and beating on the cold? Second would it be worth while to fabricate something to keep the tool from bouncing around or out of the hardy? Keep up the good work and we'll keep watching.
Great job John, really enjoyed watching you make this anvil. Turned out great. Fred.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
Awesome video! That’s a great tool and outcome.
I swear I saw someone make a similar stake anvil by upsetting the end like you did, then forging it into a shouldered tenon so it could be riveted into the mortise through the top piece. The whole thing was then forge-welded solid. I don't know if it was then topped with a piece of high-carbon alloy, but I think that would have been easier than using a solid chunk of high-carbon alloy for the top piece.
Wonderful build, though. I have a stake similar to that and have been waiting on a buddy of mine to send me a piece of grader blade for the top. Like you note, it'll always look like it was welded up with a stick welder, but it's a tool to get the job done and I can always give the "hard way" a try on the next one!
I have seen that done and would probably try that for an all forged version
@@BlackBearForge Watching Doc's videos now. Wow, does that guy got some moxy!
“Power Hammer hating”sounds like a young man’s game 😂
looks great John I just made a bic myself was a decent project
It came out awesome, John!
I've searched through your videos using the propane forge and haven't found an answer to a pressing question.
When forge welding in the propane forge. Does the flux eat up the insides of your forge? How do you protect the forge from the flux? Is this a pressing problem? I've avoided forge welding attempts in my propane forge for fear of the effects of flux on it.
Thanks again for your great videos.
Flux can be very hard on the floor of a gas forge. My current forge uses hard fire brick and is holding up better than most ruclips.net/video/HuFXhYR-vDc/видео.html
@@BlackBearForge Thanks for your reply and for the link to the video. I'm not sure how I missed that. It answered my question in great detail. Thanks again.
It does not mater if you use the hammer or the power hammer: Your job are great all the time! Keep forging! Greetings from Brazil!
Thank you very much!
Just saw your 63rd birthday video on another platform. Not sure when it was dated but happy belated birthday sir!
Thanks! A little over a week ago now
Very cool DIY! :)
That's something that I will attempt to make. A question, if it's alright... I have been gifted several mower blades. Will heating to temp, coating with charcoal dust, folding ( a'la Japanese sward smith), and forge welding add enough carbon to make a descent blade ? Just something I've been thinking on.
I can't really say. Its not a technique I have ever tried
Thanks John, another great video and very timely for me - I’ve been planning on making one of these myself. In hindsight do you think it’d make it any easier to upset the top if you weld the Hardy hole stops on to the shank at the very start to hold the shank in the Hardy hole while you upset it?
Use what ever tool gets the job done
Always a pleasure to watch you work sir
Question.
Would a softer working surface reduce the rebound of that mild steel?
yes, but it would also reduce the amount of energy going into the work
I do enjoy anything Blacksmith with you teaching Sir,
Thanks and when my two pieces of steel bond and never separate I call it welded.
Thanks for the teaching,Sir.
Put in the swage block and hammer it
I realy enjoyed this one and eaven though you are not a pro welder I would have watched to see how you did and how you fixed any mess ups
Nice. I don't have easy access to vermiculite, though I do have quite a bit of perlite. Would perlite do a good enough job in comparison to vermiculite?
I think it is a good option
@@BlackBearForge , thank you for your reply John, much appreciated. Me being a Journeyman, I'm still learning these things.
It turned out pretty good, l made a smaller shorter one last year and made it totally out of O1 tool steel. It took me a long time but l think that it was worth it. I never thought of fabricating it. Also, what rod did you use for the mixing of metals. In my previous job we used a 707 certainium rod.
it was just 7018 because its what I had on hand.
@@BlackBearForge thanks for sharing that information. I like knowing what works. With your preheating and tempering it should last for a long time.
I was wondering how you like that evolution chop saw now you've had it for a bit, is it a good saw & worth the price?
So far its been great and it still has the original blade in it.. Of course it isn't a tool I use every day, So if you use a saw lots, the blade is bound to wear out sooner
Hellou good man... can you make tuatahi racing stile axe?? I tryed this 10 times and i cant make a good axe like this
Very good video! I'm curious, are you going to make a video about your new anvil? Have a great sunday, cheers Andy
That will be next weeks video. Maybe I'll do a short teaser in a few days
@@BlackBearForge Thank you for answer! Looking forward to this video!
Love watching hot metal beaten up under power hammer so satisfying to see. Stake anvil came out so cool👍👍🔥🔥🔥
I have joined several blacksmithing forums, and people are constantly asking about anvils. However I do not often see anyone talking about stake anvils. Is there a disadvantage to using a stake anvil in blacksmithing?
The only real issues with stake anvils are size and weight. but for light work or to fit in tight areas they can be very useful. Early iron age anvils were usually quite small
How do you like that power hammer I’ve been looking at getting one and don’t know if I should buy new or old
The Say Mak has been a real game changer and I am very glad to have it
One more ? Do you like the belt sander for rough stock removal better than a 9 in grinder?
I have never really done a side by side test. I'm just in the habit of using the belt grinders.
Could the mig welded piece like that be forge welded after the fact?
if it was prepared to forge weld it could be tack welded then forge welded. But the filler rod doesn't seem to forge weld very well
@@BlackBearForge good to know, thanks! I see bladesmiths tack Damascus but cut off the welds. I just didn’t know if it could be forge welded into a piece since carbon content would not be a factor. Good to have a pro to ask.
@@stoneinthefield1 777
Happy belated 63rd birthday from the ifunny crew
I assume ifunny posted something of mine but I can't find it. Do you happen to have a link
@@BlackBearForge ifunny.co/video/cBVmrl9Q8?s=cl there you are sir. Thank-you very much for the response. I hope you have a wonderful weekend. Be safe and stay healthy 😀
i'm the same..the best part of my welder is my hand grinder..lol
Quality work as always!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!🙂
You have one of the many profile pics I use. Smirky wolf
Depending on how that fish mouth turns out it could make a decorative rivet header?
I'll try it again for that purpose. But if I want it to come out that way it probably won't
I will start by saying that I'm not a blacksmith. YET. I am one of the youngest people to pass the AWS CWI test. I am impressed by your work. I think that it would be easier to use a fullering die to widen the stump of the anvil without as much extra work maintaining the width of the post. This will give you really good gussets without the extra forging time and costs.
Thank you for all that you provide to us,the public, with your content.
VERY neat project Sir.
Have plans to make 2 ea of 2 different styles. Been talking with Mr Rob Robbinette about it. ⚠️Scrap smith warning⚠️ ⚠️ LoL I aquired a mono leaf leaf spring from a 18 wheeler truck. 2.5 x 3.5 stock most likely to be in 5160 class. Think it'll make a good bicker. Would be a kuul project any how
Sweet!
Why not forge weld it?
This is excellent. All I’ve seen for sale are cast outta Taiwan🤨🤨Thanks
"A grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint"
Another project very well done!
It could also double as a man sized chipping hammer... for that stubborn flux
Still a nice bickern.
Wow new camera? Seems softer.
Btw - Hope this tool fits any future anvils.
No, same camera and lens I've been using for months
of course not. but it does now 😜
@@BlackBearForge I noticed the horn swapped directions in the final shot. Very nice to see the 1-1/4 from Jackson WY.
I can imagine very well, but I'll ask instead: Why does anyone "hate" a tool like a power hammer. We should all learn not to hate. It's infectious.
Some feel its not true to the craft (even though big water powered hammers were in use hundreds of years ago) and some only want to see things done using the same type of tools and equipment they have in their own shop.
Looks like a shoemakers last for a slender foot. ✌
Grinding and paint make me the welder I ain't...in the words of another semi-famous RUclipsr...lol
Use that power hammer you are a professional blacksmith. Im sure those guys moving dirt for a living are using a loader and not just a shovel. Pro use the tools they need to get the job done. Love the channel John.
The power hammer is sure a blessing here
I don't understand why people don't like powerhammers. I find them quite interesting, but I would like to find an old steam hammer to use or take apart to learn more about. Those old things were engineering marvels back when they were first produced.
"To all you power hammer haters" hahah as a power hammer hater myself i know that only people who dont have power hammer hate it. Awesome project by the way
I understand the desire to "do it like a blacksmith," and give it an authentic hand forged feel. But, I think some that complain about powerhammers, welders, possibly even grinders, need to realize "authentic blacksmiths" from before welders, hand grinders, powerhammers and the like, would have built them, if they could. Blacksmiths were the cornerstone of progress....making new tools to make jobs easier. Isn't that how we went from beating a hot bloom on a rock, with a rock, to using a hammer and anvil, instead? Hahahahahaha
I'm not a welder either, but, that's why we buy grinders and sand paper 😁
As one old welder once said..."Never weld more in the morning than you can grind off in the afternoon"