Thanks ! Best video showing problem. My 02 Beetle did the exact same thing. Cluster blocked VCDS.... put in junk yard cluster and everything was readable. The immo however continued to block the running. I knew for an older car like mine this was you best solution. You just confirmed that. I've order an immo delete today.....thanks....just subd like you vids.
I already got a response but just wanted to leave a comment because I was having a similar issue with my ‘01 2.8Q... I’m turned out to be the MAF sensor... so an easy way too check is just unplug it and it the car runs fine (not like new cuz it got weird over 50 mph) then then that’s your problem. First try the MAF sensor cleaner spray/buy a new one. Thanks for the vid!!!
Car was running fine but alternator had a bearing noise so I bought a new one because I was tired of hearing that buzzing slapped it in now my car will just crank and turn over here and there but won’t stay on. Before this happened my driver door came apart and I slammed the little red light on your door and sparks came about, now my lights and alarm don’t work but the car started and drove fine I’m just so confused
Mine does this but I don’t have any dash lights. In the on position no lights come on. I twist to start then it does the issue you had here in the videos
Hey, tried to cold start a vw golf mk4 during hard freezing temperatures, decided to use 24 since it starts quicker ( I know this is a bad idea) noticed the left blinker was shining bright so I turned the blinker to that direction. Heard a loud pop. And the whole car went quiet. Removed the battery starter and switched it to 12v. Now the car will start, run for a second and stalls and the cluster is quiet. Also, the abs runs constantly super high if the battery is connected. Fixed that by removing the abs fuse. I also removed the cluster in hopes that it would help but it doesn’t. Any tips😅😅
There is a little box attached to the positive battery terminal. Pop that sucker open and see if any of those metal fuses blew. If you have a mobilizer on your golf. The IRF recover by the steering column(that picks up your keys signal) + the instrument cluster + engine control module all need to communicate with each other. If one of those components dosent work then you get that start a second then die symptom. Cheers
Hello. My 2001 golf 2.0 runs fine but sometimes starts then dies immediately. When it does this it takes like 6 times to start it up. Dies each time then it will stay running. Not all the time though. Mostly it starts right up. It never dies while running or any other issues driving it. Just sometimes starts then stalls. Not even trying to hit the gas pedal will keep it from dying. Used to happen once in a while and only died once after trying to start. Now when it happens I’ll have to start it like 5/6 times till she stays running. Thx
Check your obd2 codes and especially the temporary codes. Could be all sorts of issues, could be a distributor/plugs/wires situation, head gasket could be leaking coolant(check how much coolant its drinking), could be a crankshaft sensor, get someone with VCDS and run a engine scan
@@AlbertShevchuk Thanks for the reply. No check engine light and otherwise runs fine. Just sometimes takes 5/6 times to start n stay running. I’ll get it scanned if it keep happening
@@asepknalpot-gk2yz No I haven’t. But it doesn’t happen often. Maybe a handfull of times a year so I figure just deal with it. Must be the fuel pump but if it’s manageable then leave it. If it happen a lot is change it since it’s easy enough. Good luxk
Hey I have a 2003 Jetta with 2.0 it keeps cranking up then stalls out when it’s cool then when it heats up a little it try’s to run then it will run fin
Hi ! Did you find the issue? I have same problem with my golf mk5 1.6 fsi In damp weather engine start up then cut off if i try again after 2-3 hours start up fine and I can drive it
Hi! My golf mk4 2002 has an issue. Sometimes when i start it will loose power and stop working. Then if I try to start it again it will 100% start but with low power for 1-2sec. I have managed to get some videos. This can happen 2 times in a day, or 1 time in a week. Garages said to me that they don’t know what it is, but if it isn’t so often I should leave it. Any thoughts? I can send you the videos if you wanna check them up Thanks 🙏
Another guy on RUclips had their beetle do that exact same thing due to the dash cluster being faulty. However, he also said the VW keys can sometimes be faulty after time, which he has an initial easy thing to try to fix that. I'll try to find the link to his video and repost it. If all else fails, try to check your MAF sensor, cam position sensor, and crankshaft sensor. That failure can cause this issue in many other cars than just VW. New sensors are expensive, so I usually recommend buying $5 ones from junkyards when attempting the old "shotgun fix" method for cars. Only use maf cleaner, don't touch the element with your hands. Or check your current sensors with a multimeter to see if they are good. ruclips.net/video/iOkrqv54Vno/видео.html To stay running, a car needs fuel ( ie check fuel pump, injectors, sending unit, lines, and for an unclogged filter), proper air (maf sensor, map sensor, good vacuum, clean air filter), sparks (spark plugs, coil, wires to them), compression (too much to explain- googling how to check), proper timing, and for the electrical components to work at proper voltage (key turns on computer that sends electricity to computer then to fuel pump, and to auxiliary sensors such as crankshaft position sensor and cam sensors). Unfortunately, things beyond my initial paragraph become very tedious to systematically go through 😕
bro i have the same problem, starts and cut off, i have put on tester but the other modules can comunicate with my tester, but not ECU !, do you think i have problem with ecu ? ALH engine.
Yes sir, except the problem points to the ecu. Take the ecu out and check the connector for corroded terminals. Also look at the ecu pins if any are deformed or have broken off. Put any mk4 ecu in there and read it again with the scanner, but don't try starting the engine. If it reads it, then you need a new ecu.
Hey good stuff man.. 2 questions.. I would be interested to know if you put the original cluster back in and would it start after the ECU Imob delete or flash whatever they did. I assume they deleted the imob but then the other cluster shows the key/vehicle and yes it read the codes but you would think that it would block it from starting hence its foreign cluster and thats what the imob is meant to and its actively flashing!? But then i am thinking that the cluster is looking for the imob within the ecu cant find it and nothing its stopping the from turning on because essentially now the imob light is just going to be a permanent annoying little light flashing…lol
Good Questions!! It would but its safer to assume the cluster is bad but their is ways to test it and why put back a failing part back in? Cluster is responsible for sending the command to the ecu to stop the engine. But if the ecu does not understand that command then it will just ignore it. Those sequence of steps is the mk4 immobilizer system that is sent via can bus take the bulb out or unsolder it Happy you got your car running :)
I got a golf mk4 2001, the fuel ran out completely so I refuelled then it wouldn’t start, I connected jump leads it would start and cut out but no power at all to the whole speedometer. Don’t know what the issue is.
@@samieh8381 Make Sure your power source is reliable meaning it got plenty of juice. Then check if the fuel pump is working. Unfortunately in the USA we don't have those small economic engines in an mk4 vw.(Because we suck) so i cant tell you exactly what to do. Someone else from a different country where they have the same engines and same issues can...So google/youtube "mk4 golf 1.4s fuel pump check" . That's a good place to start as you kinda need the fuel to lubricate the fuel pump. If you run it without fuel and the dam thing is trashed.
I got a 2010 dodge journey it starts then dies it made a cracking sound when time to start... I have to turn the 5 times in order for it to starts... can you help
Unplug the Engine Control Module and the Transmission one too if you have an Automatic. Check all the pins and slots to see if anything is corroded. Spray both ends with WD40 and put it back in and take it out about 5 times. That's always a good place to start when it comes to electrical issues. Also google forums with country's that have your type of car. No polo in the USA so cant help much.
Thanks Your video Definitely Helped me come to the conclusion I will pay a mechanic. Just out of curiosity have you ever seen the same start and die issue But the word safe Pops up where the odometer And trip meter usually are A couple seconds after turning the key to the on position????? I've tried this connecting the batteries several different times With no Lock I rented AA code Reader and the map sensor P106 was the only one That came up But couldn't locate anything on the internet about it triggering the a immobilizer
no because the ecu has the peace of code that checks if the cluster is legit, so those guys who i sent the ecu too just delete that code so then with that ecu you can start any 99-03 manual 2.0
Albert Shevchuk hey man! I have a '01 A4 2.8,,, it has 150+k miles with an awesome doc history it was really taken care of. But it just started staking on me as soon as it gets warmed-up.... It bizarre. When cold it runs like a top as soon as it warms up it studios and won't restart until it cold back down.. I have have read some posts of others that have used this save problem but I figured I'd ask in cases you can help me avoid the Audi dealer ship fee's... So fuel pump is what iv read can cause this but it's weird cuz I can hear it prime just fine (when hot and cold)... Any insight at all thanks!
@@brandonspencer309 Well first thing first, get it scanned with an OBD2 scanner and take pictures of the codes (and pending codes as well). Then hit google and search "2001 A4 2.8 P0012 Forum" the key word is forum then you actual see car enthusiasts talk about the problem. Its the best way to start. My advice is clean your Mass Air Flow Sensor in the intake filter area with some brake cleaner.
Albert Shevchuk that’s for the reply!.. I have an obd2 scanner,, can’t remember what the exact codes where now but I think they where p1129 and p1127... I have managed to fix my B5 already thought. While I was waiting for the fuel pump to come in the mail I changed all the vacuum lines to new silicon ones. When I started it my dash lit up lock a Christmas tree but it seemed too run alright. I got back under the hood and noticed my MAF. sensor wasn’t pushed in all the way... So the problem was the MAP sensor!
I felt like this video was a complete waste of my time there was no reason he had to do all the diagnostic and show everybody the Diagnostics showing nothing showing nothing showing nothing showing nothing I'm going to go hang out a little bit and come back showing nothing showing nothing oh it's a bad cluster. If all due respect is a lot more going on then just a bad cluster. Besides I can't see anything in the video in the first place so it doesn't make any sense to show us what's going on with it when we can't even see the part that you're talking about. I appreciate your attempt at helping I really do, but it unfortunately didn't help me one bit. Cheers!
Thanks ! Best video showing problem. My 02 Beetle did the exact same thing. Cluster blocked VCDS.... put in junk yard cluster and everything was readable. The immo however continued to block the running. I knew for an older car like mine this was you best solution. You just confirmed that. I've order an immo delete today.....thanks....just subd like you vids.
Thanks for your input. Im happy i was able to help you out :)
I already got a response but just wanted to leave a comment because I was having a similar issue with my ‘01 2.8Q... I’m turned out to be the MAF sensor... so an easy way too check is just unplug it and it the car runs fine (not like new cuz it got weird over 50 mph) then then that’s your problem. First try the MAF sensor cleaner spray/buy a new one.
Thanks for the vid!!!
Anytime :)
Car was running fine but alternator had a bearing noise so I bought a new one because I was tired of hearing that buzzing slapped it in now my car will just crank and turn over here and there but won’t stay on. Before this happened my driver door came apart and I slammed the little red light on your door and sparks came about, now my lights and alarm don’t work but the car started and drove fine I’m just so confused
well im hoping you didnt keep running and check what ever was shorted/fried.
Mine does this but I don’t have any dash lights. In the on position no lights come on. I twist to start then it does the issue you had here in the videos
What are the codes telling you? did you scan it?
Hey, tried to cold start a vw golf mk4 during hard freezing temperatures, decided to use 24 since it starts quicker ( I know this is a bad idea) noticed the left blinker was shining bright so I turned the blinker to that direction. Heard a loud pop. And the whole car went quiet. Removed the battery starter and switched it to 12v. Now the car will start, run for a second and stalls and the cluster is quiet. Also, the abs runs constantly super high if the battery is connected. Fixed that by removing the abs fuse. I also removed the cluster in hopes that it would help but it doesn’t. Any tips😅😅
So the problem is that I would like to get the car running again. It’s just a beater so only the running part is important.😂
There is a little box attached to the positive battery terminal. Pop that sucker open and see if any of those metal fuses blew. If you have a mobilizer on your golf. The IRF recover by the steering column(that picks up your keys signal) + the instrument cluster + engine control module all need to communicate with each other. If one of those components dosent work then you get that start a second then die symptom. Cheers
@@AlbertShevchuk is there a way to pass the immobilizer?
@@tukevah What year is your weedub?
I was lucky on my beetle.06... Put a New Battery in my key fob... started right up
key fob dont start the car broski
@@AlbertShevchuk LOL.... Your absolutely correct Skippy...
Hello. My 2001 golf 2.0 runs fine but sometimes starts then dies immediately. When it does this it takes like 6 times to start it up. Dies each time then it will stay running. Not all the time though. Mostly it starts right up. It never dies while running or any other issues driving it. Just sometimes starts then stalls. Not even trying to hit the gas pedal will keep it from dying. Used to happen once in a while and only died once after trying to start. Now when it happens I’ll have to start it like 5/6 times till she stays running. Thx
Check your obd2 codes and especially the temporary codes. Could be all sorts of issues, could be a distributor/plugs/wires situation, head gasket could be leaking coolant(check how much coolant its drinking), could be a crankshaft sensor, get someone with VCDS and run a engine scan
@@AlbertShevchuk Thanks for the reply. No check engine light and otherwise runs fine. Just sometimes takes 5/6 times to start n stay running. I’ll get it scanned if it keep happening
I've exactly same issue,did u solve this
@@asepknalpot-gk2yz No I haven’t. But it doesn’t happen often. Maybe a handfull of times a year so I figure just deal with it. Must be the fuel pump but if it’s manageable then leave it. If it happen a lot is change it since it’s easy enough. Good luxk
Were you able to pass smog? I did this same thing you did but my check engine light still won't go off but shows no codes after driving 111 miles.
That dosent make sense, try a different scanner. This issue has nothing to do with a check engine light.
Hey I have a 2003 Jetta with 2.0 it keeps cranking up then stalls out when it’s cool then when it heats up a little it try’s to run then it will run fin
Any engine codes? Take out your crankshaft position sensor, clean it and put it back in.
Hi !
Did you find the issue?
I have same problem with my golf mk5 1.6 fsi
In damp weather engine start up then cut off if i try again after 2-3 hours start up fine and I can drive it
Hi! My golf mk4 2002 has an issue. Sometimes when i start it will loose power and stop working. Then if I try to start it again it will 100% start but with low power for 1-2sec.
I have managed to get some videos. This can happen 2 times in a day, or 1 time in a week.
Garages said to me that they don’t know what it is, but if it isn’t so often I should leave it.
Any thoughts? I can send you the videos if you wanna check them up
Thanks 🙏
Did you ever solve the issue?
@@alpa7762 No mate. It still does it like once every 2 days or everyday .
What is your engine size?
My 2004 beetle starts then dies can my instrument cluster be bad? I have code 01314?
Got a new battery and alternator put in. Gave the car a jump. Starts up fine but won’t stay running. Any suggestions? 04 vw beetle.
not enough description buddy
Another guy on RUclips had their beetle do that exact same thing due to the dash cluster being faulty. However, he also said the VW keys can sometimes be faulty after time, which he has an initial easy thing to try to fix that. I'll try to find the link to his video and repost it. If all else fails, try to check your MAF sensor, cam position sensor, and crankshaft sensor. That failure can cause this issue in many other cars than just VW. New sensors are expensive, so I usually recommend buying $5 ones from junkyards when attempting the old "shotgun fix" method for cars. Only use maf cleaner, don't touch the element with your hands. Or check your current sensors with a multimeter to see if they are good.
ruclips.net/video/iOkrqv54Vno/видео.html
To stay running, a car needs fuel ( ie check fuel pump, injectors, sending unit, lines, and for an unclogged filter), proper air (maf sensor, map sensor, good vacuum, clean air filter), sparks (spark plugs, coil, wires to them), compression (too much to explain- googling how to check), proper timing, and for the electrical components to work at proper voltage (key turns on computer that sends electricity to computer then to fuel pump, and to auxiliary sensors such as crankshaft position sensor and cam sensors). Unfortunately, things beyond my initial paragraph become very tedious to systematically go through 😕
ruclips.net/video/iOkrqv54Vno/видео.html
@@reneerogers3646 Had to get a new fuel pump and crankshaft position sensor.
bro i have the same problem, starts and cut off, i have put on tester but the other modules can comunicate with my tester, but not ECU !, do you think i have problem with ecu ? ALH engine.
Yes sir, except the problem points to the ecu. Take the ecu out and check the connector for corroded terminals. Also look at the ecu pins if any are deformed or have broken off. Put any mk4 ecu in there and read it again with the scanner, but don't try starting the engine. If it reads it, then you need a new ecu.
@@AlbertShevchuk i checked for corroded pin, all was. Like new, the mechanic said that immo must take out from ECU
Hey good stuff man..
2 questions..
I would be interested to know if you put the original cluster back in and would it start after the ECU Imob delete or flash whatever they did.
I assume they deleted the imob but then the other cluster shows the key/vehicle and yes it read the codes but you would think that it would block it from starting hence its foreign cluster and thats what the imob is meant to and its actively flashing!?
But then i am thinking that the cluster is looking for the imob within the ecu cant find it and nothing its stopping the from turning on because essentially now the imob light is just going to be a permanent annoying little light flashing…lol
Good Questions!!
It would but its safer to assume the cluster is bad but their is ways to test it and why put back a failing part back in?
Cluster is responsible for sending the command to the ecu to stop the engine. But if the ecu does not understand that command then it will just ignore it. Those sequence of steps is the mk4 immobilizer system that is sent via can bus
take the bulb out or unsolder it
Happy you got your car running :)
I got a golf mk4 2001, the fuel ran out completely so I refuelled then it wouldn’t start, I connected jump leads it would start and cut out but no power at all to the whole speedometer. Don’t know what the issue is.
Depending on what engine you have in your golf there are different ways to go about the silly "ran out of gas" catastrophe.
Albert Shevchuk 1.4s petrol
@@samieh8381 Make Sure your power source is reliable meaning it got plenty of juice. Then check if the fuel pump is working. Unfortunately in the USA we don't have those small economic engines in an mk4 vw.(Because we suck) so i cant tell you exactly what to do. Someone else from a different country where they have the same engines and same issues can...So google/youtube "mk4 golf 1.4s fuel pump check" . That's a good place to start as you kinda need the fuel to lubricate the fuel pump. If you run it without fuel and the dam thing is trashed.
I got a 2010 dodge journey it starts then dies it made a cracking sound when time to start... I have to turn the 5 times in order for it to starts... can you help
sounds like some worn out cam lobes
i have the same problem and do all of this but still happen this problem ?
your problem is likely to be different
my polo N9 switches itselves off after driving for a while.i replaced the crankshaftsensor and fuel pump but no progress.any advise on what to try?
Unplug the Engine Control Module and the Transmission one too if you have an Automatic. Check all the pins and slots to see if anything is corroded. Spray both ends with WD40 and put it back in and take it out about 5 times. That's always a good place to start when it comes to electrical issues. Also google forums with country's that have your type of car. No polo in the USA so cant help much.
Have that problem too
Thanks Your video Definitely Helped me come to the conclusion I will pay a mechanic. Just out of curiosity have you ever seen the same start and die issue But the word safe Pops up where the odometer And trip meter usually are A couple seconds after turning the key to the on position????? I've tried this connecting the batteries several different times With no Lock I rented AA code Reader and the map sensor P106 was the only one That came up But couldn't locate anything on the internet about it triggering the a immobilizer
Thank You, What year is your car? The word safe usually means something is locked, kinda like the oem stereo does
Hello I’m having the exact same problem on my 08 Vw Jetta!!! Please help!!
Thanks for your ideas .i wil try mine 2mrrow
let me know how it goes
So when you change out the cluster for the other one would the vehicle work without sending the ecu in ?
no because the ecu has the peace of code that checks if the cluster is legit, so those guys who i sent the ecu too just delete that code so then with that ecu you can start any 99-03 manual 2.0
thanks for the vid!
No Problem
Albert Shevchuk hey man! I have a '01 A4 2.8,,, it has 150+k miles with an awesome doc history it was really taken care of. But it just started staking on me as soon as it gets warmed-up.... It bizarre. When cold it runs like a top as soon as it warms up it studios and won't restart until it cold back down.. I have have read some posts of others that have used this save problem but I figured I'd ask in cases you can help me avoid the Audi dealer ship fee's...
So fuel pump is what iv read can cause this but it's weird cuz I can hear it prime just fine (when hot and cold)... Any insight at all thanks!
@@brandonspencer309 Well first thing first, get it scanned with an OBD2 scanner and take pictures of the codes (and pending codes as well). Then hit google and search "2001 A4 2.8 P0012 Forum" the key word is forum then you actual see car enthusiasts talk about the problem. Its the best way to start.
My advice is clean your Mass Air Flow Sensor in the intake filter area with some brake cleaner.
Albert Shevchuk that’s for the reply!.. I have an obd2 scanner,, can’t remember what the exact codes where now but I think they where p1129 and p1127... I have managed to fix my B5 already thought. While I was waiting for the fuel pump to come in the mail I changed all the vacuum lines to new silicon ones. When I started it my dash lit up lock a Christmas tree but it seemed too run alright. I got back under the hood and noticed my MAF. sensor wasn’t pushed in all the way...
So the problem was the MAP sensor!
@@brandonspencer309 Nice, awesome. Happy you solved it without the dealer.
So was the cluster at fault or not ?
If it was then why not putting back the original cluster?
It was.
You can put back the original cluster but it might cause you different issues down the road.
Turbocharged?
it became turbocharged ;)
Nice lighting 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
thanks just for you
You need better video skills... video is way to dark!
alright Jacob, come hold the camera for me.
U need a flash light vro u can't see anything
everything that "you need to see" in this video is show clearly
U need yo get a new key cuz ill make a video
new key is more expensive then immo delete
Its fighting to stay on
@@rayjimenezjr55 fight back
I felt like this video was a complete waste of my time there was no reason he had to do all the diagnostic and show everybody the Diagnostics showing nothing showing nothing showing nothing showing nothing I'm going to go hang out a little bit and come back showing nothing showing nothing oh it's a bad cluster. If all due respect is a lot more going on then just a bad cluster. Besides I can't see anything in the video in the first place so it doesn't make any sense to show us what's going on with it when we can't even see the part that you're talking about. I appreciate your attempt at helping I really do, but it unfortunately didn't help me one bit. Cheers!
ok go look at nothing somewhere else lol
Thanks man! That was easy.
Anytime Kurt!