Changed from 172.5 to 165. Immediately resolved my right hip issues on my road bike. Also resolved saddle discomfort. Pedaling also feels more fluent, though at the cost of a bit of acceleration. Overall - a change for the better.
I bin 176cm and use 172.5. But I think 170s are better at the latest when I get out of the saddle, which I like to do. I suspect the smaller amplitude helps here
Hi, I really resonate with what you're saying from 6:00 !! I'm 6'2 and definitely experience this 'spilling forward' issues on my 165 cranks. I installed them following a hip operation where I then became obsessed with hip angle- probably a good idea early days, but years on (and two bike fits later!) everything else is set up nicely, and yet the 'spilling forward' feeling persists- it ruins my longer training rides and therefore compromises my racing. Having done plenty of off-bike glute/hip work since the operation, there's no reason for me not to to try increasing crank length again (170?) and see what happens. Thanks for articulating this concept in your video, I haven't seen anyone else on RUclips mention the potential repercussions of going too short. Cheers :)
Power = torque x cadence x torque efficiency. Some times the lower crank increased efficiency will compensate the lower torque. You have your Shimano bike fitting bike to test that. At least the 170 overall power for me works better than the 175 (166cm height, 83cm inseam) bought my self a 165 for testing
This is a great video thanks Scott, exactly what I am interested in! I have a couple of questions on the video, when you were talking about pedal stroke, For you what is the ideal points to put force into the pedal stroke? (I have heard multiple theories so am slightly confused as the best practice). Recently, if imagining the pedal stroke as a clock face, I have been trying to put force into the pedal stroke earlier at a 10pm position with the foot angled slightly downward (almost pulling over the top of the stroke)- until about the 5pm position and then releasing. For me this does not come naturally but I heard it was most effective. If I was naturally pedaling I think I would start putting force into the pedal stroke at about 1-3 pm position. Would you have any insight or recommendations? Thanks for the videos, they are really helping!
Thanks for the comment. You are spot on when addressing pedalling as a skill. It’s something that a lot of cyclists just leave to chance. In summary, you are naturally going to find a cadence that feels comfortable. This is derived from muscle fibre types (whether you are more slow twitch or fast twitch) The faster twitch athletes tend to push bigger gears at slower rpm. However, your fitness and experience on the bike will also control it. The speed at which you turn has greater impact that looking for your peak torque angle. I am fortunate enough to have a 3D scanner that gives me these numbers. However, rather than worrying about pushing extra force at a particular point you should be looking to level out the speed of the stroke. Look to wipe the foot (like you have mud on the sole) this sweeps the foot through the bottom dead spot and pushes the other foot over the top dead spot. Timing this action is a skill. You will feel that you get a floating action (I term it the pedal cruise mode) It’s like you are being gentle on the pedals and using the crank arm rather than mashing through the pedal spindle. Obviously at times of great speed you will need to increase force eg sprint effort etc. However, set out drills to float on the pedals. It really pays off. I’ll post a video of cadence drills from one of my classes. I aim to put out weekly sessions from my home studio. I am also going to do live weekly RUclips sessions where I chat about all things cycling. A 30-40 min session where folks can ask questions. 👍👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling Thanks Scott, I will give the sweeping technique a go. When/what time would you plan on doing a live RUclips session? I would be keen on joining in, Thanks Tony
Hola, saludos de Guatemala, interesante explicación, aclara mi duda, pregunta? Anteriormente usaba biela 170 y no sentía ninguna molestia, decidí cambiar a biela 165, ya que unos años atrás tuve una cirugía en una rodilla, rotura de meniscos, he recuperado el 95% de movilidad. sentí mejora en la cadencia, pero he notado que al momento de tener la biela en la posición de las 3, siento que se frena la pierna y que me falta más rango y he estado pensado en regresar a 170, mi estatura es 1.68 y tengo entre Pierna 76cm, la altura de sillín lo tengo en 67 con la biela 165, Entreno todos los días, hago yoga y ejercicios de fuerza, no compito ni estoy en ningún equipo de competencia, espero algún día poder hacerlo más no es mi propósito, simplemente soy competitivo conmigo mismo, tengo 45 años. Agradeceré tus comentarios, saludos cordiales
Hello, greetings from Guatemala, interesting explanation, clarify my doubt, question? Previously I used a 170 crank and I didn't feel any discomfort, I decided to change to a 165 crank, since a few years ago I had surgery on a knee, meniscus tear, I have recovered 95% mobility. I felt an improvement in the cadence, but I have noticed that when I have the crank in the 3 o'clock position, I feel that my leg is slowing down and that I lack more range and I have been thinking about going back to 170, my height is 1.68 and I have Between Leg 76cm, I have the saddle height at 67 with the crank 165, I train every day, I do yoga and strength exercises, I do not compete or I am not in any competition team, I hope one day to be able to do it more, it is not my purpose, I am simply competitive with myself, I am 45 years old. I appreciate your comments, best regards
@@ChopperS1977 (if I may interrupt here)... with different saddle height, did you adjust your saddle position also? In my experience, longer cranks require lower saddle, but placed a bit more forward.
I have advanced sound a little since this video but I am not very skilled at videos so excuse my very amateur approach. I have lots more to share so I am sure you’ll see some progress in tech skills 👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling I've learned a lot from you and would like to thank you for that. I do have a question about crank arm length. I have now 170mm with 50-34T chain rings. After learning how to engage diff muscle groups in pedaling, I believe I'm now able to dish out more power with my legs and can handle a 52-36 chain ring. I suppose if I used a longer crank arm of 175mm, it would still feel the same for me because of the improved torque, while actually driving more force on the sprockets and therefore increasing my speed and power. I don't use a power meter, BTW. Thoughts?
I am 5’8” and just switched to 165mm cranks and I am much more comfortable in my hips now and faster overall. Also I can stand on the cranks and crush hills now. My bike came with 175s and they were terrible for me.
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Changed from 172.5 to 165. Immediately resolved my right hip issues on my road bike. Also resolved saddle discomfort. Pedaling also feels more fluent, though at the cost of a bit of acceleration. Overall - a change for the better.
Love it
I bin 176cm and use 172.5. But I think 170s are better at the latest when I get out of the saddle, which I like to do. I suspect the smaller amplitude helps here
It sure does - I hope it helps
Hi, I really resonate with what you're saying from 6:00 !! I'm 6'2 and definitely experience this 'spilling forward' issues on my 165 cranks. I installed them following a hip operation where I then became obsessed with hip angle- probably a good idea early days, but years on (and two bike fits later!) everything else is set up nicely, and yet the 'spilling forward' feeling persists- it ruins my longer training rides and therefore compromises my racing. Having done plenty of off-bike glute/hip work since the operation, there's no reason for me not to to try increasing crank length again (170?) and see what happens. Thanks for articulating this concept in your video, I haven't seen anyone else on RUclips mention the potential repercussions of going too short. Cheers :)
Brilliant wee video. Thank you.
I wish there was a "test drive" at the lbs for 165mm cranks, before you shell out for a new crank and PM.
If you’re in the US, Appleman bicycles has a variable crankset you can rent for 2 weeks. Pricey deposit but it might be worth it.
👍👍
Power = torque x cadence x torque efficiency. Some times the lower crank increased efficiency will compensate the lower torque. You have your Shimano bike fitting bike to test that. At least the 170 overall power for me works better than the 175 (166cm height, 83cm inseam) bought my self a 165 for testing
What if nothing hurts, does it still matter?
If it’s not broken then don’t try and fix it 👍
I was perfectly comfortable on a 175 until I changed to 170 and my knees stopped hurting.
Great video - Sensible straight talk, no BS! Thank you.
Thank you John 👍
Small feet vs Big feet does this have an influence on choosing crank length
Wise words!
This is a great video thanks Scott, exactly what I am interested in! I have a couple of questions on the video, when you were talking about pedal stroke, For you what is the ideal points to put force into the pedal stroke? (I have heard multiple theories so am slightly confused as the best practice). Recently, if imagining the pedal stroke as a clock face, I have been trying to put force into the pedal stroke earlier at a 10pm position with the foot angled slightly downward (almost pulling over the top of the stroke)- until about the 5pm position and then releasing. For me this does not come naturally but I heard it was most effective. If I was naturally pedaling I think I would start putting force into the pedal stroke at about 1-3 pm position. Would you have any insight or recommendations? Thanks for the videos, they are really helping!
Thanks for the comment. You are spot on when addressing pedalling as a skill. It’s something that a lot of cyclists just leave to chance.
In summary, you are naturally going to find a cadence that feels comfortable. This is derived from muscle fibre types (whether you are more slow twitch or fast twitch) The faster twitch athletes tend to push bigger gears at slower rpm. However, your fitness and experience on the bike will also control it.
The speed at which you turn has greater impact that looking for your peak torque angle. I am fortunate enough to have a 3D scanner that gives me these numbers. However, rather than worrying about pushing extra force at a particular point you should be looking to level out the speed of the stroke. Look to wipe the foot (like you have mud on the sole) this sweeps the foot through the bottom dead spot and pushes the other foot over the top dead spot. Timing this action is a skill. You will feel that you get a floating action (I term it the pedal cruise mode) It’s like you are being gentle on the pedals and using the crank arm rather than mashing through the pedal spindle.
Obviously at times of great speed you will need to increase force eg sprint effort etc.
However, set out drills to float on the pedals. It really pays off.
I’ll post a video of cadence drills from one of my classes. I aim to put out weekly sessions from my home studio.
I am also going to do live weekly RUclips sessions where I chat about all things cycling. A 30-40 min session where folks can ask questions.
👍👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling Thanks Scott, I will give the sweeping technique a go. When/what time would you plan on doing a live RUclips session? I would be keen on joining in, Thanks Tony
meyerthemaker2 Hi Tony, I did last nights at 18:30 bst - plan is to do similar or 19:00
@@BulletproofCyclingさん．素晴らしいです．日本人は前側筋肉群優先的より，ハムストリングで四時引き出ませんでした． 8年を費やして完成させ，ほぼ毎日3時サイクリングできるようになった74歳のサイクリストです．確認できました．ありがとう．
Hola, saludos de Guatemala, interesante explicación, aclara mi duda, pregunta? Anteriormente usaba biela 170 y no sentía ninguna molestia, decidí cambiar a biela 165, ya que unos años atrás tuve una cirugía en una rodilla, rotura de meniscos, he recuperado el 95% de movilidad.
sentí mejora en la cadencia, pero he notado que al momento de tener la biela en la posición de las 3, siento que se frena la pierna y que me falta más rango y he estado pensado en regresar a 170, mi estatura es 1.68 y tengo entre Pierna 76cm, la altura de sillín lo tengo en 67 con la biela 165,
Entreno todos los días, hago yoga y ejercicios de fuerza, no compito ni estoy en ningún equipo de competencia, espero algún día poder hacerlo más no es mi propósito, simplemente soy competitivo conmigo mismo, tengo 45 años.
Agradeceré tus comentarios, saludos cordiales
I will try and get this translated and reply 👍
Hello, greetings from Guatemala, interesting explanation, clarify my doubt, question? Previously I used a 170 crank and I didn't feel any discomfort, I decided to change to a 165 crank, since a few years ago I had surgery on a knee, meniscus tear, I have recovered 95% mobility.
I felt an improvement in the cadence, but I have noticed that when I have the crank in the 3 o'clock position, I feel that my leg is slowing down and that I lack more range and I have been thinking about going back to 170, my height is 1.68 and I have Between Leg 76cm, I have the saddle height at 67 with the crank 165,
I train every day, I do yoga and strength exercises, I do not compete or I am not in any competition team, I hope one day to be able to do it more, it is not my purpose, I am simply competitive with myself, I am 45 years old.
I appreciate your comments, best regards
@@ChopperS1977 (if I may interrupt here)... with different saddle height, did you adjust your saddle position also? In my experience, longer cranks require lower saddle, but placed a bit more forward.
Can you give starting points for different heights? For example, 170cm to 185cm riders should default to 165mm cranks, and so on. Thanks.
Pretty much everyone should use 165mm cranks unless they are racing and have a coach and a pro bike fitter.
Height 159cm with 70.5cm inseam. Using 150mm crank. Want to know if the crank arm length is correct or it a bit shorter for me?
股下77.7でクランク155㍉
シマノRC902の指定母指球より後方にセット．「サイズ41」
どこにセッテングしても，引っかかり，突っかかり．
自転車の拘束運動は解決策なし．
諦めており，最後にシート角度74から74．5度のバイクに乗り換えてみます．
現状の感覚では-2.5㍉が良いような？
165 ALL THE WAY
👍
A Q-factor... that's what I told to the folks on the GCN about this topic: you guys think too much two-dimensional.
Coach, the audio sounds hollow as if you're in a tank or cave.
I have advanced sound a little since this video but I am not very skilled at videos so excuse my very amateur approach. I have lots more to share so I am sure you’ll see some progress in tech skills 👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling I've learned a lot from you and would like to thank you for that. I do have a question about crank arm length.
I have now 170mm with 50-34T chain rings. After learning how to engage diff muscle groups in pedaling, I believe I'm now able to dish out more power with my legs and can handle a 52-36 chain ring. I suppose if I used a longer crank arm of 175mm, it would still feel the same for me because of the improved torque, while actually driving more force on the sprockets and therefore increasing my speed and power.
I don't use a power meter, BTW.
Thoughts?
I am 5’8” and just switched to 165mm cranks and I am much more comfortable in my hips now and faster overall. Also I can stand on the cranks and crush hills now. My bike came with 175s and they were terrible for me.