In my experience with central vacuum inlets, my findings have been very similar to yours. My #1 preference is the Vacuvalve. However, I’ve had to replace several of the older ones (with the heat and press fastener) because the melted plastic gets brittle and breaks and then the seal falls off. I have hardly ever seen the seal fall off on the newer ones with the metal press fit fastener. Has Plastiflex recently redesigned their full door inlet? On most of the inlets I’ve seen like that, the hinge/spring fails and the door won’t stay closed no matter what orientation the inlet is. However, on the off chance the door is working properly, it feels flimsy and cheap. I don’t think I’ll ever recommend or install that style unless they redesign the spring/hinge. When my house was built 15 years ago, they put in the toilet bowl style with the bad seal. Over time, the seals disintegrated and the doors would stick closed. I replaced all of them with Vacuvalves awhile back and am now in the process of converting them to Electravalves for use with my electric hoses. Thanks for another informative video Owen!
My inlet preference is the round door inlet. I grew up with the round door inlets. My grandmother had round door, my step mother has round door, my uncle had round door, and I have a central vacuum in my house and I have round door as well. I am guessing that round door is the most common type?
Thanks for the video. I have Hayden 1500 inlets, circa 1993, all installed with the preferable door hinge on the top. But the contact nipples are wearing/breaking off, and I need to replace them all. Why would anyone install them with the fragile door on the bottom? With the electric metal ring contacts, does it ever matter where the contact nipples are located, or am I missing something?
I have old electrolox inlet and ordered a new one, but i cant figure out how to remove the high voltage clip to trransfer to the new inlet. Can anyone help?
ONLY BUY A NEW INLET VALVE IF YOU LOSE THE TINY METAL CONTACT NIPPLE AND OR SPRING! OR IF YOUR SPRING IS CORRODED OR DISTORTED WHERE IT WILL NOT PUSH AGAINST THE METAL CONTACT NIPPLE! It did not make sense, why I would have to buy another inlet valve since id did not lose any of the parts. They cost anywhere from 7 to 10 dollars at the hardware or vacuum store but still ten bucks can be used for something else when you're on a fixed budget. YOU JUST HAVE TO PUT IT TOGETHER CORRECTLY SO IT MAKES CONTACT WITH THE HOSE. The nipple goes into the hole round end first the spring goes in second pushes against the flat part to push the nipple through the hole so it can make contact with your hose. I almost bought a new inlet valve even when to the vacuum store until I learned that I put the nipples in the flat side first and it did nothing made contact with the hose so it did not work. I did some painting and i uninstalled the central vacuum inlet valve from the wall. Since i did not lose any tiny parts Small parts I did not have to buy a new Inlet valve. Do not unscrew the wire holder all the way because you can loose the spring and the contact nipple. I unscrewed the wire holders until they came off and then a spring and a metal nipple came out of the both sides. I was lucky that i did not lose these tiny pieces. I just had to put the metal nipple flat part pushes the nipple out through the hole. the nipples then make contact with the hose when you plug it in.
Good catch Owen, sorry about that. We like the Hayden side opening inlet too. Especially good for horizontal installations, as in baseboards. So far no failures witnessed, though it has only been available for a couple of years.
@@Centvac Heh, this is funny, I love it! Then again, those who have a fairly monotone way of speaking have some wickedly sharp senses of humour. This is coming from a guy who has been diagnosed with Asperger's syndrome.
Disappointed you didn't explain upgraded Inlets using 120V power to the beater brush. Not that hard to upgrade and a much better system than the 60's and 70's non-powered heads.
Very educational video; thanks for posting this. I do wish you had recorded this in landscape mode, though.
Got a Vacuvalve to replace my Beam inlet from the 80s. Thanks for the advice.
I’m going to be installing my own central vacuum and I’m gonna be using the last of that that you showed into a retrofit
In my experience with central vacuum inlets, my findings have been very similar to yours.
My #1 preference is the Vacuvalve. However, I’ve had to replace several of the older ones (with the heat and press fastener) because the melted plastic gets brittle and breaks and then the seal falls off. I have hardly ever seen the seal fall off on the newer ones with the metal press fit fastener.
Has Plastiflex recently redesigned their full door inlet? On most of the inlets I’ve seen like that, the hinge/spring fails and the door won’t stay closed no matter what orientation the inlet is. However, on the off chance the door is working properly, it feels flimsy and cheap. I don’t think I’ll ever recommend or install that style unless they redesign the spring/hinge.
When my house was built 15 years ago, they put in the toilet bowl style with the bad seal. Over time, the seals disintegrated and the doors would stick closed. I replaced all of them with Vacuvalves awhile back and am now in the process of converting them to Electravalves for use with my electric hoses.
Thanks for another informative video Owen!
Enjoyed watching at 1.5 times speed.
"Category: Comedy"
Nice going, owen
Well, at least I think I'm funny. Don't know if anybody else does...
Ahh just gotta give you a hard time LOL
My inlet preference is the round door inlet. I grew up with the round door inlets. My grandmother had round door, my step mother has round door, my uncle had round door, and I have a central vacuum in my house and I have round door as well. I am guessing that round door is the most common type?
Excellent! Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I have Hayden 1500 inlets, circa 1993, all installed with the preferable door hinge on the top. But the contact nipples are wearing/breaking off, and I need to replace them all. Why would anyone install them with the fragile door on the bottom? With the electric metal ring contacts, does it ever matter where the contact nipples are located, or am I missing something?
I have old electrolox inlet and ordered a new one, but i cant figure out how to remove the high voltage clip to trransfer to the new inlet. Can anyone help?
ONLY BUY A NEW INLET VALVE IF YOU LOSE THE TINY METAL CONTACT NIPPLE AND OR SPRING! OR IF YOUR SPRING IS CORRODED OR DISTORTED WHERE IT WILL NOT PUSH AGAINST THE METAL CONTACT NIPPLE!
It did not make sense,
why I would have to buy another inlet valve since id did not lose any of the parts.
They cost anywhere from 7 to 10 dollars at the hardware or vacuum store but still ten bucks can be used for something else when you're on a fixed budget.
YOU JUST HAVE TO PUT IT TOGETHER CORRECTLY SO IT MAKES CONTACT WITH THE HOSE. The nipple goes into the hole round end first the spring goes in second pushes against the flat part to push the nipple through the hole so it can make contact with your hose.
I almost bought a new inlet valve even when to the vacuum store until I learned that I put the nipples in the flat side first and it did nothing made contact with the hose so it did not work.
I did some painting and i uninstalled the central vacuum inlet valve from the wall.
Since i did not lose any tiny parts Small parts I did not have to buy a new Inlet valve.
Do not unscrew the wire holder all the way because you can loose the spring and the contact nipple. I unscrewed the wire holders until they came off and then a spring and a metal nipple came out of the both sides. I was lucky that i did not lose these tiny pieces. I just had to put the metal nipple flat part pushes the nipple out through the hole. the nipples then make contact with the hose when you plug it in.
You forgot the Hayden side opening inlet! You fool!
Good catch Owen, sorry about that. We like the Hayden side opening inlet too. Especially good for horizontal installations, as in baseboards. So far no failures witnessed, though it has only been available for a couple of years.
@@Centvac Heh, this is funny, I love it! Then again, those who have a fairly monotone way of speaking have some wickedly sharp senses of humour. This is coming from a guy who has been diagnosed with Asperger's syndrome.
Disappointed you didn't explain upgraded Inlets using 120V power to the beater brush. Not that hard to upgrade and a much better system than the 60's and 70's non-powered heads.
Objectionable? It’s a vacuum outlet.