Great video and safe system setup when you go through your gear, I still see other setups (not yours) being hotwired (no fuse or breaker) into people’s most prized possession.
While we’re on the subject of changing, I’ve just replaced the alternator in my son’s 120 with a std Natrad unit, about $285. And it’s now charging at 14.5 volts.
Love watching your videos and have got so much great advice from them. I’ve pretty much got the exact set up as you with the century battery. I’ve also got a Redarc smart charger (10amp) and hear you charge up your batteries from time to time, how often would you recommend plugging the smart charger in and giving the batteries a bit of a boost? During the week it’s basically just driving to and from work and then longer drives on the weekend.
Lots of variables, it depends on how you use them and how much you drain them so I couldn’t really answer that without seeing your setup and how you use it
Is that right and how do you come to that conclusion because what we do we only use facts and the fact is when tested the resistance was not below one it was actually zero so in fact, it’s a perfect spot close and zero resistance once again so many experts thanks for your help
I have a BCDC (Redarc’s version) from start battery to house battery, dcdc from house battery to lithium battery behind the rear seat that runs the two fridges, I have solar on the roof and an mppt to the lithium also, the house battery has an mppt also, I also have a 240v charger that I can plug into the lithium battery in a worst case scenario, it runs off the start battery., your electrics looks very tidy.
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
It makes such a difference when all the electrical wires are neat and tidy.
Great video and safe system setup when you go through your gear, I still see other setups (not yours) being hotwired (no fuse or breaker) into people’s most prized possession.
Awesome job and explanation mate. 100% right
While we’re on the subject of changing, I’ve just replaced the alternator in my son’s 120 with a std Natrad unit, about $285. And it’s now charging at 14.5 volts.
I also found the charge profile of the same redarc unit lacking, it never fully charged the battery.
Do you recommend replacing smart alternator in 1GD with a traditional high ampere alternator?
Love watching your videos and have got so much great advice from them. I’ve pretty much got the exact set up as you with the century battery. I’ve also got a Redarc smart charger (10amp) and hear you charge up your batteries from time to time, how often would you recommend plugging the smart charger in and giving the batteries a bit of a boost? During the week it’s basically just driving to and from work and then longer drives on the weekend.
Lots of variables, it depends on how you use them and how much you drain them so I couldn’t really answer that without seeing your setup and how you use it
Have you tried the 40 or 50 redarc that puts more current voltage is not the hole picker
You can’t put current without voltage in increasing
Mate, it’s obvious your not getting over 14v out of the Redarc dcdc charger due to not having the clips in the plastic grill cover. 🤡
Not the best spot to earth the charger and solar anderson
Is that right and how do you come to that conclusion because what we do we only use facts and the fact is when tested the resistance was not below one it was actually zero so in fact, it’s a perfect spot close and zero resistance once again so many experts thanks for your help
I have a BCDC (Redarc’s version) from start battery to house battery, dcdc from house battery to lithium battery behind the rear seat that runs the two fridges, I have solar on the roof and an mppt to the lithium also, the house battery has an mppt also, I also have a 240v charger that I can plug into the lithium battery in a worst case scenario, it runs off the start battery., your electrics looks very tidy.