*UPDATE* Rear calipers can be put into 'service mode', eliminating the need to 'turn' them in, and simply push. I still recommend purging the old, potentially roasted, fluid out of the bleeder though. Don't forget to top up! There's several good videos instructing how to enter the service mode on these cars. Thanks.
was done 50 percent wrong no need to open bleeders ..The First step before replacing rear brakes EPB that has to be disabled..turn the key on put ur foot on gas and hold EPB(electronic parking brake) switch (the button used to activiate parking brake) down turn key off and on within 5 sec...to disable...then u can compress piston like the front.....to get the car out of service mode..turn key to on positon push gas pedal down and epb switch Up cylcle key off and on....and your done video is very informative and correct once u get your vehicle in service mode=)
aynjel011 electronic parking break. It's the button that puts on your emergency break. When you disable service mode it does a caliper compression as well. I don't think "it was done wrong" is fair to say just because EPB wasn't put in service mode. I think it's mostly a saftey thing with the extra compression at the end.
Two questions. 1 at what point do you disable the EPD? I assume after you remove old pads and before you push the caliper in? And 2 Do you have to enable the EPD when your done? If so is it the same process?
2 tips especially for those who live in an area where salt is used to de-ice the roads in winter. First, use a torch to heat up the bleeder. Also use a "line wrench" or a 6 point box end wrench. If you do NOT do this in the "rust belt" you will likely break of the bleeder screw. Second, the caliper brake should be removed and all of the areas that touch the brake pads should be thoroughly clean with a wire brush until they are shiny. These are the same spot that you need to apply the silicon brakes grease before install the pads.
Dude I think that was the most explanatory, helpful video I have seen yet in regards to any part of the maintenance of a 2013 Ford fusion. You make it look so simple and you're so patient. Thank you you helped me more than you can hope for
THANK YOU. ONE OF THE MOST THOROUGH AND BEST FILMED VIDEOS THAT I'VE SEEN IN PREP OF CHANGING MY REAR BRAKES ON A 2016 FUSION SE which have worn way more than the front( not normal) and the driver's side is worn unevenly like you showed in the video, so now I know the cause before I start!! Excellent job.
~Bro Tip~ There is no need to “bleed the caliber”...opening the caliber bleed valve can open a opportunity for air to get in the break-line system... Just...before you start...go under the hood...and open the break fluid reservoir cap...and place said cap in a safe place... ...in opening the reservoir...let off any pressure...and that allows the break fluid to flow back into the break fluid reservoir...without risking any opportunity for air getting in the system... ...because once one has air in the system...the whole system has to bled...and that’s a pain in the tail two person job...as well as...all the break fluid that is wasted in the process... Also...in reference to the rear calibers... ...if one does not have that “special rear caliber tool”...one can use a combination “C” clamp 🗜 (note: some folks also call them “D” clamps 🗜)...something...and ajustable pliers🔧... ...adjust the pliers to fit the piston...and turn to tighten...it will get to a point where it will stop...then at that point...take your “C” clamp 🗜...open it to it’s widest opening...place it on the caliber gently and push the caliber back...it will get to a point where it will stop...at that point...stop✋🏽...then go back to the adjustable pliers... ...repeat until the caliber is fully back in it’s seated position... ...just be patient...it doesn’t go fast...but...it will go efficiently👍🏽😃
Great vid! The only different procedure I do is I dont mess with the Bleeder valve. I the brake fluid cap off and push the piston in. I then just remove excess brake fluid from the reservoir, with a squeeze bottle or turkey baster, if it rises above max line. Well done vid. Thanks!
My 2016 Fusion looked exactly the same, so I used yours as a guide for my own brake job. I just replaced all four pads, but the right-rear rotor is shot, but I can't afford a rotor presently, but will be able to in about a week or so.
This is a very good video. I have replaced the brake pads on my three GM cars before. I now have a 2014 Fusion Hybrid, but I know that the hybrids use less of the hydraulic brakes, so I will be doing this job in the far future.
Great video, Pete. I usually take the brake fluid cap off instead of the bleeder valve, but I like that trick with the bottle and tube better. Thanks for sharing.
When putting the Caliper pins back into position what will help you from chancing cross threading is take turns tightening top then bottom in rotations which will save you time and headache in the long run.
Rear breaks are equipped with electronic retractable piston. There is no need ( manually) to use the tool and or bleeder valve to retract the break piston
thanks for the video last time i did the rear brake pads for 2013 Fusion, i have to put the e-brake to service mode by turing on ignition key then depress the gas pedal and push down the parking brake button while cycle ignition key off then on within 5 sec. after push the piston back like you normally would then when taking off the service mode, I did the same thing except pull on the e brake to put it back to normal mode.
My piston still won't go all the way in, even after bleeding the break and opening the reservoir. The car is EPB service mode as well. Any tips? That cube tool seems to be a horrible fit for this job. I'll never buy a Ford again. I feel like they purposely make this a difficult job for a regular person.
Nice job. I put a small dab of medium Loctite on my slide pin bolts (I noticed that the factory had blue Loctite on them too) because they have the tendency to work loose. But my hardware configuration is much different than yours. I have a 2013 Taurus that the rear brakes did the same thing by sticking on the driver's side only. I had to replace the rear brakes at only 10k miles. The interesting thing is that our calipers are identical, but everything else is different. I have experienced with other Ford vehicles that I have owned and confirmed by my daughter who works for a Ford dealership, that Ford is noted for changing parts like brakes in the mid-model year.
Good to know! I will be inspecting these yearly from now on, so i'll add a dab next time. I plan on keeping this car for a WHILE, so regular attention will make service much easier down the road.
thank you for the video. I didn't know mine were that bad. kids had the car all month. tires next, did you notice every vehicle now has different sizes.
Just fyi, I believe when the car was new there would have been shims on the back of the brake pads. When you buy the OEM pads from ford (as you did) the adhesive pads on the back of the new brake pads are supposed to help grip the shims which you re-use from the old pads. So at some point someone changed the rear pads on your car and just threw the shims with the old pads in the trash (probably not realising they should be re-used). Sound about right? Next time you change your pads you'll find a load of mushed adhesive on the piston and the back of the pads.
Great video but I ran into a problem when I tried changing the rear pads and rotors. Once I have everything installed and tighten the slider pins, the wheel won't budge by hand. It seems the pads are too thick and I have the piston fully compressed. Have you ever run into this problem? I needed to take the shims off the new pads to even get the caliper back on.
Interesting. The caliper would be suspect #1, but it sounds like it's fine. Suspect #2 would be the slide pins. if they had buildup on them or weren't lubricated, they would push the pad against the rotor. After that, it could be the parking brake is stuck on a little, or maybe the pads were too thick depending on where you bought them. Good luck, and let me know if you find anything.
I needed to see what size her I needed so this video came up, after getting my size I skimmed through and found out that your cracking thr bleeder, you can but not necessary, but if you do Crack bleeder you may risk putting air in the lines, instead just take lid off reservoir and release pressure that way, if you get air in line you will need to bleed the brakes
How come the Discount tire mounting torque is 100 ft /lbs on 2015 Ford Fusion? I wonder if they do their job correctly since you mention to tighten at 75 ft/lbs.
I looked around a bit and several other sources actually recommend 100 too. I'm not sure i'll go that high, but I might do 90 now. I swap wheels every spring and fall for snow tires and i haven't noticed anything getting loose. in fact, they're still quite a bugger. Thanks!
You should always spray the bleeder screws with penetrating oil before doing a brake job. In fact, you should do that hours before starting. Even doing it the day before the brake job isn't a bad idea. (You may do this in your video but I didn't see penetrating oil in your supplies.) I've done all the work on my cars, trucks, and motorcycles for 52 years. I can't even count how many brake jobs I've done. Anyone who has done many brake jobs knows that not spraying the bleeder valves can lead to a minor disaster. That is, the bleeder screw breaks off or strips. If that happens you have to replace the caliper or wheel cylinder. This is very basic. I'm really suprised that you didn't do that. Also, from what I've read about this car, you don't have to spin the caliper pistons to compress them. I found this out while researching this model because I'm going to do a brake job on my daughter's 2016 Fusion later this week. In fact, you mentioned that to finish getting the pistons all the way in, you just pushed on them. That said, the information I found was only dealing with the rear brakes so the front pistons may have to be turned while compressing them. Oddly, I checked a couple other videos about Ford Fusion front brakes and they show the front caliper pistons being hollow - no spinning necessary - so it appears that changes have been made over the years. I'll soon know for sure. You should NOT grease the outside of the pads! That just attracts brake dust that can lead to more problems. You can, however, use an anti-squeal / anti-rattle product which dries to a rubbery consistency. But you don't even have to do that in your case because Ford included an anti-sqeal /anti-rattle material with your pads. There's a reason they included those and greasing them defeated their purpose and posed a potential problem. Those anti-rattle are excellent. You ARE NOT supposed to grease them. You should always thoroughly clean your rotors when doing a brake job. I see you have brake cleaner but I didn't see you use it. You really should also lightly sand the rotors when replacing pads. Here's why: Brake pads deposit small amounts of brake material into the surface of the rotor. In fact, that's necessary for proper braking and that's why you often hear of procedures to properly break in new brakes. That's to properly transfer pad material to the rotors. However, when you replace the pads but not the rotors, the rotors have material from the old pads on them and that may not be exactly the same as the old pad material. That can result in the brakes squeeking. So the idea is to clean all that old material off the rotors so that only material from the new pads is transferred to them. So, it's a good idea to not only clean the disks with brake cleaner but also to lightly sand them. (Just a few passes with medium or fine sandpaper.) I forgot to do this on a brake job I did on a Honda Pilot a couple years ago and they squealed like crazy for months. The squeal eventually went away but it was really lound while it lasted. If you don't clean the rotors thorough of old pad material imbedded in the fine pores of the disks, you will probably be OK but why take the chance when preventing the problem only takes a minute? Also, you should not just top off your brake fluid when doing a brake job. You should flush the entire system. Brake fluid should be replaced every two or three years and, if you are doing a brake job, it's almost certainly due. But there's a problem: ABS systems should really be flushed too and that requires a special scan tool or other software. For another vehicle I have, I have a software tool that I use on my laptop to do that. The procedure (with that vehicle - it may vary with other vehicles) is to first bleed the brakes in the normal way. Then use the tool to bleed the ABS system. That pushes old brake fluid into the lines so the brakes should then be bled again in the normal way. However, a trick to get the ABS system to cycle is to simply take the vehicle out on gravel, ice, or something else where the ABS system will cycle when the brakes are hit hard. But keep in mind that if you haven't bled the brakes the normal way first, that will force old brake fluid into the ABS pumps so you really should bleed the brakes the normal way first, activate the ABS pumps while bleeding them and then bleed them the normal way again. But, again, the procedure may vary with different vehicles but that's the general idea. That said, if you can't bleed the ABS system, it's still a good idea to just bleed them the normal way but a truly complete job requires the ABS system to be bled. Lastly, (I see you added a note about this) while getting information on my daughter's brakes, I found that Fusions have an electric rear parking brake. You didn't do a rear brake job but, if you did, you have to deactivate the electric rear brake to allow you to push the piston in. There is a scan tool that can do that but you can also do it without that tool and there are videos on YT about how to do that. It's simply a procedure you do while seated in the car using the ignition key, brake pedal, gas pedal, and parking brake switch. There's another similar procedure to reactivate and adjust the gap of the parking brake motor. However, your comment about still recommending purging fluid from the caliper has nothing to do with deactivating the parking brake and pushing in the piston. You DO NOT have to open the bleeder screw when pushing in any caliper piston. It doesn't hurt anything to do it but it's completely unnecessary.
Great input! Very thorough. I agree with pretty much all of your points. I would say my biggest mistake was missing the E-parking brake deactivation. I've tried to draw attention to the correct method in the description and comments. It's refreshing to hear your input about full bleeding, too. Most comments are simply that I should have pushed the fluid right back to the master with a C-clamp. Even i know that's not a good idea. Master cylinders like pushing, not getting pushed. Thanks again.
Good video, wish I would have watched the whole thing b4 I replaced my rear brakes ( I just skimmed). Because I turned the piston in with the tool and it still wasn't in far enough, I watched more of the video and saw you had to push the piston in - After - screwing it to the stop. I've done other brakes and I have the tool to just push your piston back in so once I saw these screwed in I didnt think it needed both methods. I dont bleed my brake fluid off either, I just loosen the brake filler cap to relieve back pressure and it seems to work well. > How do you put the rear calipers into 'Service Mode ' ?? Thanks
On my 13 there are backing plates on the original pads. The oem replacement pads are like yours with that white film where plate would go. The plates pop right off old pads. Are you supposed to put on new? Changed lot of brakes and never seen this before.
Peter thank you for your very informative video. I just bought 2013 Fusion SE AWD at 148 000 km, do you know at what km timing belt has to be changed? is tthere anyway to figure out whether it has been changed? Thanks again.
I can't tell what the prestone label says, but in case you didn't know, DOT4 and DOT4 LV are different. LV stands for "Low Viscosity", and you shouldn't mix them.
GOOD question! There's tons of opinions about this, but I like the idea of removing the old fluid in the caliper instead of pushing it all the way back up to the master cylinder. It's also much easier to push the caliper by hand when the fluid is simply bleeding out then if it has to go all of the way back through the brake system.
I like this question and response, because I was curious myself. When you do that, do you need to bleed the brakes or how does that work? Just make sure no air comes back in the lines?
The tube attached to the bleeder screw really helps with this. If for any reason you let the caliper suck stuff back in, it will just be the fluid in the tube and not air. I don't think anyone bleeds brakes as often as they should (I know I don't), but this gets a lot of the 'burnt up' fluid out.
hello friend a question, in the change of the rear brakes don´t you have to be careful with the electric brakes? And the other question , is not better to rectify the discs when you change the brakes?
You did not replace or turn the rotors, Every time you change your pads you should change your rotors. At a minimum, you should measure the rotor's thickness to make sure it is not too thin. Or am I missing something?
I agree, Mark. A simple tool from Harbor Freight to measure the thickness of the rotors will prevent the eventual failure of the calipers as they push the pistons so far out that fluid begins leaking around the seal. I've noticed in the last few years that rotors are designed with minimal thickness and won't outlast the pads under normal use. So, getting in the mindset of purchasing the rotors with the new pads will save time and money overall. By that's my humble opinion. It's been my experience that, unlike the 80s and 90s where I could take my rotors in for turning, it just isn't done anymore since the rotors have been coming out of the box with only 3-4mm of surface before minimum change out. The new pads of today are much more aggressive and wear the surface down faster?
Did this solve your rubbing noise, particularly at the rear driver side that had the imbalanced pad wear? I'm assuming it was resolved by cleaning up your caliper pins? Thanks
QUESTION: I am doing my brakes right now, and i came to the issue you did at roughly the 7 minute mark where you say "i made a mistake" i have felt the hard stop and it does not collapse anymore. How did you get it to collapse. Ive pushed, turned, turned and pushed and nothing.
Alfredo Cortez it might be a little late for you, but I just pushed on the piston with the bleeder valve open and it was able to move in another several mm. Putting the parking brakes into service mode may help with this too. It seems like it disengages the "turning" part and allows you to simply push them all of the way.
I just change my pads but after I was done my breaks are not responding the first time you push the the pedal goes all the way in you need to pump the brakes until it starts breaking. Did you experience that too
The torque is 100 ft.lbs the brake fluid should be DOT4 LV fluid only. these cars have torque vectoring and FORD says LV ONLY if you dillute the factory fluid you may cause serious problems with this advanced breaking system.....
I have a 2016 fusion titanium and I just did the rear brakes and now they have air In them. Do you know if it has independent brake lines or do I have to bleed all of them?
I actually saw a video about that while uploading this one. I didn't do it, but it sounds like it may remove the process of spinning the piston in, and allow you to simply push the fluid out of the bleeder valve.
Hello Heath, thanks for watching. I only have about 40k miles on this vehicle and the rotors looked to be wearing evenly, so I did not need to. If the thin pad wore all of the way, the steel back plate would have damaged the rotor, and I would have needed a new one. Good thing I checked!
crud i watched the whole thing thinking you were doing a brake job and you didnt do the rotors. New title . Brake pad job . I dont like the idea of the square tool , seems like you can slip and mess up the seal. I cant say i have ever seen the grooves in any of my older cars, it must be a new thing. C clamp
Its extremely dangerous to use your roadside jack to do service on your vehicle. It is not sturdy enough to withstand any lateral movement caused by working on your vehicle.
Again another video when someone is not using the service mode. It's much easier to do a brake job on theses cars if it's in service mode it spins the piston in no tool required and it snugs the pads to the rotor after the brake job.
1. you set the ignition to ON 2. Press and hold the accelerator pedal and place the EPB switch to release (downward) position. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and EPB. 3. Set the ignition to OFF and then set the ignition to ON within 5 seconds. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch while doing that. After the system goes into service mode you can then turn off the ignition and do your brake job.
@@efraino1618 what if you didnt do this at the start then tried to do it.. and accidentally engaged the parking break.. which then caused an error, piston is now fully out and wont go back in
@@MRIMan I used a c clamp to push piston back into position, but he piston only went in a little not nearly enough space for the new pads. So I decided to start over, I put the old pads back in, put the caliper back into place, threw the tire back on, started the car(error is still flashing on dash) then I engaged the parking break waited a second then disengaged the parking break. This cleared the error on my dash. I then turned off the car and did the 5 second brake maintenance mode trick. Once it was in maintenance mode you can easily push the piston back in with just a c clamp or pad spreader.
*UPDATE* Rear calipers can be put into 'service mode', eliminating the need to 'turn' them in, and simply push. I still recommend purging the old, potentially roasted, fluid out of the bleeder though. Don't forget to top up! There's several good videos instructing how to enter the service mode on these cars. Thanks.
The factory service manual says to press in the piston after the vehicle has been put into the service mode.
was done 50 percent wrong no need to open bleeders ..The First step before replacing rear brakes EPB that has to be disabled..turn the key on put ur foot on gas and hold EPB(electronic parking brake) switch (the button used to activiate parking brake) down turn key off and on within 5 sec...to disable...then u can compress piston like the front.....to get the car out of service mode..turn key to on positon push gas pedal down and epb switch Up cylcle key off and on....and your done video is very informative and correct once u get your vehicle in service mode=)
masterjoe3000 hi there what does EPB mean and where is it in the car so you can press and hold. Thank you.
aynjel011 electronic parking break. It's the button that puts on your emergency break. When you disable service mode it does a caliper compression as well. I don't think "it was done wrong" is fair to say just because EPB wasn't put in service mode. I think it's mostly a saftey thing with the extra compression at the end.
Two questions.
1 at what point do you disable the EPD? I assume after you remove old pads and before you push the caliper in?
And 2 Do you have to enable the EPD when your done? If so is it the same process?
He used the right tool to turn the piston but didnt do it the easy way..
BEFORE you start the repair!!! Or risk damage to the electronic parking brake.
2 tips especially for those who live in an area where salt is used to de-ice the roads in winter.
First, use a torch to heat up the bleeder. Also use a "line wrench" or a 6 point box end wrench. If you do NOT do this in the "rust belt" you will likely break of the bleeder screw.
Second, the caliper brake should be removed and all of the areas that touch the brake pads should be thoroughly clean with a wire brush until they are shiny. These are the same spot that you need to apply the silicon brakes grease before install the pads.
I think you explained the process very well. You spoke slowly, went step by step, and articulated clearly. Traits of a good teacher. Thank you.
Dude I think that was the most explanatory, helpful video I have seen yet in regards to any part of the maintenance of a 2013 Ford fusion. You make it look so simple and you're so patient. Thank you you helped me more than you can hope for
THANK YOU. ONE OF THE MOST THOROUGH AND BEST FILMED VIDEOS THAT I'VE SEEN IN PREP OF CHANGING MY REAR BRAKES ON A 2016 FUSION SE which have worn way more than the front( not normal) and the driver's side is worn unevenly like you showed in the video, so now I know the cause before I start!! Excellent job.
Great to hear. Check out the "service mode" videos too. The only major thing I missed.
~Bro Tip~
There is no need to “bleed the caliber”...opening the caliber bleed valve can open a opportunity for air to get in the break-line system...
Just...before you start...go under the hood...and open the break fluid reservoir cap...and place said cap in a safe place...
...in opening the reservoir...let off any pressure...and that allows the break fluid to flow back into the break fluid reservoir...without risking any opportunity for air getting in the system...
...because once one has air in the system...the whole system has to bled...and that’s a pain in the tail two person job...as well as...all the break fluid that is wasted in the process...
Also...in reference to the rear calibers...
...if one does not have that “special rear caliber tool”...one can use a combination “C” clamp 🗜 (note: some folks also call them “D” clamps 🗜)...something...and ajustable pliers🔧...
...adjust the pliers to fit the piston...and turn to tighten...it will get to a point where it will stop...then at that point...take your “C” clamp 🗜...open it to it’s widest opening...place it on the caliber gently and push the caliber back...it will get to a point where it will stop...at that point...stop✋🏽...then go back to the adjustable pliers...
...repeat until the caliber is fully back in it’s seated position...
...just be patient...it doesn’t go fast...but...it will go efficiently👍🏽😃
Thanks, this was right on point. Saved me about 100 bucks on a brake job for my fusion.
Great vid! The only different procedure I do is I dont mess with the Bleeder valve. I the brake fluid cap off and push the piston in. I then just remove excess brake fluid from the reservoir, with a squeeze bottle or turkey baster, if it rises above max line. Well done vid. Thanks!
yeah I never seen this guys method, id just pull some fluid from the line after I reinstall everything.
Great video, you got natural talent and personality behind the lens.
Bravo, encore!
My 2016 Fusion looked exactly the same, so I used yours as a guide for my own brake job. I just replaced all four pads, but the right-rear rotor is shot, but I can't afford a rotor presently, but will be able to in about a week or so.
This is a very good video. I have replaced the brake pads on my three GM cars before. I now have a 2014 Fusion Hybrid, but I know that the hybrids use less of the hydraulic brakes, so I will be doing this job in the far future.
FYI - the wheel torque specs for Fusions of this design bracket is 100 FT LBS.
Great video, Pete. I usually take the brake fluid cap off instead of the bleeder valve, but I like that trick with the bottle and tube better. Thanks for sharing.
You did a Great job! Thanks for taking the time to show others.
Could you link me to that special tool you used on the Piston ? Thanks
When putting the Caliper pins back into position what will help you from chancing cross threading is take turns tightening top then bottom in rotations which will save you time and headache in the long run.
Rear breaks are equipped with electronic retractable piston. There is no need ( manually) to use the tool and or bleeder valve to retract the break piston
thanks for the video
last time i did the rear brake pads for 2013 Fusion, i have to put the e-brake to service mode by turing on ignition key then depress the gas pedal and push down the parking brake button while cycle ignition key off then on within 5 sec. after push the piston back like you normally would then when taking off the service mode, I did the same thing except pull on the e brake to put it back to normal mode.
Yep, I'd say that was the biggest thing I missed this time. Spinning the pistons worked, but service mode would have made it a little easier. Thanks!
Peter Maenke b
so i can use a c clamp on a 13 fusion on the calipers then do what you mentioned above to reset the codes it throws?
+Jessey Jacobs exactly what I'd like to know ?
+Ian mauk I ended up renting the tool from autozone. $60 is what it costed me to rent the tool and was reimbursed when I returned it
I believe the 'sticky' surface on back of the brake pads is to help attach the shim from the old pads.
This was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
Great video, but you have to put your brakes on maintance mode first otherwise you could damage the caliper
Bring that comment to top. Its an important step. Also when in maintenance mode turning the piston isn't needed.
Thanks you just made this even more stressful for me to do it myself lmao
My piston still won't go all the way in, even after bleeding the break and opening the reservoir. The car is EPB service mode as well. Any tips? That cube tool seems to be a horrible fit for this job. I'll never buy a Ford again. I feel like they purposely make this a difficult job for a regular person.
Thanks Peter. Very straight forward and great explanation.
Nice job. I put a small dab of medium Loctite on my slide pin bolts (I noticed that the factory had blue Loctite on them too) because they have the tendency to work loose. But my hardware configuration is much different than yours. I have a 2013 Taurus that the rear brakes did the same thing by sticking on the driver's side only. I had to replace the rear brakes at only 10k miles. The interesting thing is that our calipers are identical, but everything else is different. I have experienced with other Ford vehicles that I have owned and confirmed by my daughter who works for a Ford dealership, that Ford is noted for changing parts like brakes in the mid-model year.
Good to know! I will be inspecting these yearly from now on, so i'll add a dab next time. I plan on keeping this car for a WHILE, so regular attention will make service much easier down the road.
Thanks for this video, it helped me in doing brakes on my 2013 FFH
thank you for the video. I didn't know mine were that bad. kids had the car all month. tires next, did you notice every vehicle now has different sizes.
thank you for ur efforts to make this video. helped alot.
Just fyi, I believe when the car was new there would have been shims on the back of the brake pads. When you buy the OEM pads from ford (as you did) the adhesive pads on the back of the new brake pads are supposed to help grip the shims which you re-use from the old pads. So at some point someone changed the rear pads on your car and just threw the shims with the old pads in the trash (probably not realising they should be re-used). Sound about right? Next time you change your pads you'll find a load of mushed adhesive on the piston and the back of the pads.
Nicely done! Very helpful and very much appreciated.
Great video but I ran into a problem when I tried changing the rear pads and rotors. Once I have everything installed and tighten the slider pins, the wheel won't budge by hand. It seems the pads are too thick and I have the piston fully compressed. Have you ever run into this problem? I needed to take the shims off the new pads to even get the caliper back on.
Interesting. The caliper would be suspect #1, but it sounds like it's fine. Suspect #2 would be the slide pins. if they had buildup on them or weren't lubricated, they would push the pad against the rotor. After that, it could be the parking brake is stuck on a little, or maybe the pads were too thick depending on where you bought them. Good luck, and let me know if you find anything.
I needed to see what size her I needed so this video came up, after getting my size I skimmed through and found out that your cracking thr bleeder, you can but not necessary, but if you do Crack bleeder you may risk putting air in the lines, instead just take lid off reservoir and release pressure that way, if you get air in line you will need to bleed the brakes
What's the name of that special tool to push caliber piston in
thanks a bunch!! i have the same issue. I'm about to take my pads off this week..
How come the Discount tire mounting torque is 100 ft /lbs on 2015 Ford Fusion? I wonder if they do their job correctly since you mention to tighten at 75 ft/lbs.
I looked around a bit and several other sources actually recommend 100 too. I'm not sure i'll go that high, but I might do 90 now. I swap wheels every spring and fall for snow tires and i haven't noticed anything getting loose. in fact, they're still quite a bugger. Thanks!
Please double check with your car insurance coverage because I was advice to follow correct specification. Thank you.
Paul Durano what a square
You should always spray the bleeder screws with penetrating oil before doing a brake job. In fact, you should do that hours before starting. Even doing it the day before the brake job isn't a bad idea. (You may do this in your video but I didn't see penetrating oil in your supplies.) I've done all the work on my cars, trucks, and motorcycles for 52 years. I can't even count how many brake jobs I've done. Anyone who has done many brake jobs knows that not spraying the bleeder valves can lead to a minor disaster. That is, the bleeder screw breaks off or strips. If that happens you have to replace the caliper or wheel cylinder. This is very basic. I'm really suprised that you didn't do that.
Also, from what I've read about this car, you don't have to spin the caliper pistons to compress them. I found this out while researching this model because I'm going to do a brake job on my daughter's 2016 Fusion later this week. In fact, you mentioned that to finish getting the pistons all the way in, you just pushed on them. That said, the information I found was only dealing with the rear brakes so the front pistons may have to be turned while compressing them. Oddly, I checked a couple other videos about Ford Fusion front brakes and they show the front caliper pistons being hollow - no spinning necessary - so it appears that changes have been made over the years. I'll soon know for sure.
You should NOT grease the outside of the pads! That just attracts brake dust that can lead to more problems. You can, however, use an anti-squeal / anti-rattle product which dries to a rubbery consistency. But you don't even have to do that in your case because Ford included an anti-sqeal /anti-rattle material with your pads. There's a reason they included those and greasing them defeated their purpose and posed a potential problem. Those anti-rattle are excellent. You ARE NOT supposed to grease them.
You should always thoroughly clean your rotors when doing a brake job. I see you have brake cleaner but I didn't see you use it. You really should also lightly sand the rotors when replacing pads. Here's why: Brake pads deposit small amounts of brake material into the surface of the rotor. In fact, that's necessary for proper braking and that's why you often hear of procedures to properly break in new brakes. That's to properly transfer pad material to the rotors. However, when you replace the pads but not the rotors, the rotors have material from the old pads on them and that may not be exactly the same as the old pad material. That can result in the brakes squeeking. So the idea is to clean all that old material off the rotors so that only material from the new pads is transferred to them. So, it's a good idea to not only clean the disks with brake cleaner but also to lightly sand them. (Just a few passes with medium or fine sandpaper.) I forgot to do this on a brake job I did on a Honda Pilot a couple years ago and they squealed like crazy for months. The squeal eventually went away but it was really lound while it lasted. If you don't clean the rotors thorough of old pad material imbedded in the fine pores of the disks, you will probably be OK but why take the chance when preventing the problem only takes a minute?
Also, you should not just top off your brake fluid when doing a brake job. You should flush the entire system. Brake fluid should be replaced every two or three years and, if you are doing a brake job, it's almost certainly due. But there's a problem: ABS systems should really be flushed too and that requires a special scan tool or other software. For another vehicle I have, I have a software tool that I use on my laptop to do that. The procedure (with that vehicle - it may vary with other vehicles) is to first bleed the brakes in the normal way. Then use the tool to bleed the ABS system. That pushes old brake fluid into the lines so the brakes should then be bled again in the normal way. However, a trick to get the ABS system to cycle is to simply take the vehicle out on gravel, ice, or something else where the ABS system will cycle when the brakes are hit hard. But keep in mind that if you haven't bled the brakes the normal way first, that will force old brake fluid into the ABS pumps so you really should bleed the brakes the normal way first, activate the ABS pumps while bleeding them and then bleed them the normal way again. But, again, the procedure may vary with different vehicles but that's the general idea. That said, if you can't bleed the ABS system, it's still a good idea to just bleed them the normal way but a truly complete job requires the ABS system to be bled.
Lastly, (I see you added a note about this) while getting information on my daughter's brakes, I found that Fusions have an electric rear parking brake. You didn't do a rear brake job but, if you did, you have to deactivate the electric rear brake to allow you to push the piston in. There is a scan tool that can do that but you can also do it without that tool and there are videos on YT about how to do that. It's simply a procedure you do while seated in the car using the ignition key, brake pedal, gas pedal, and parking brake switch. There's another similar procedure to reactivate and adjust the gap of the parking brake motor. However, your comment about still recommending purging fluid from the caliper has nothing to do with deactivating the parking brake and pushing in the piston. You DO NOT have to open the bleeder screw when pushing in any caliper piston. It doesn't hurt anything to do it but it's completely unnecessary.
Great input! Very thorough. I agree with pretty much all of your points. I would say my biggest mistake was missing the E-parking brake deactivation. I've tried to draw attention to the correct method in the description and comments.
It's refreshing to hear your input about full bleeding, too. Most comments are simply that I should have pushed the fluid right back to the master with a C-clamp. Even i know that's not a good idea. Master cylinders like pushing, not getting pushed.
Thanks again.
Good video, wish I would have watched the whole thing b4 I replaced my rear brakes ( I just skimmed). Because I turned the piston in with the tool and it still wasn't in far enough, I watched more of the video and saw you had to push the piston in - After - screwing it to the stop. I've done other brakes and I have the tool to just push your piston back in so once I saw these screwed in I didnt think it needed both methods.
I dont bleed my brake fluid off either, I just loosen the brake filler cap to relieve back pressure and it seems to work well. >
How do you put the rear calipers into 'Service Mode ' ?? Thanks
On my 13 there are backing plates on the original pads. The oem replacement pads are like yours with that white film where plate would go. The plates pop right off old pads. Are you supposed to put on new? Changed lot of brakes and never seen this before.
Is it really necessary to use the special tool or can you just use a block of wood with a C clamp to push the caliper piston back??
Peter thank you for your very informative video. I just bought 2013 Fusion SE AWD at 148 000 km, do you know at what km timing belt has to be changed? is tthere anyway to figure out whether it has been changed? Thanks again.
I can't tell what the prestone label says, but in case you didn't know, DOT4 and DOT4 LV are different. LV stands for "Low Viscosity", and you shouldn't mix them.
Why do you open the bleeder valve when screwing the piston back in?
GOOD question! There's tons of opinions about this, but I like the idea of removing the old fluid in the caliper instead of pushing it all the way back up to the master cylinder. It's also much easier to push the caliper by hand when the fluid is simply bleeding out then if it has to go all of the way back through the brake system.
I like this question and response, because I was curious myself. When you do that, do you need to bleed the brakes or how does that work? Just make sure no air comes back in the lines?
The tube attached to the bleeder screw really helps with this. If for any reason you let the caliper suck stuff back in, it will just be the fluid in the tube and not air. I don't think anyone bleeds brakes as often as they should (I know I don't), but this gets a lot of the 'burnt up' fluid out.
Thankyou for your video very helpful and well explained
hello friend a question, in the change of the rear brakes don´t you have to be careful with the electric brakes? And the other question , is not better to rectify the discs when you change the brakes?
Nice job. Suggest in the future add torque specs.
I've heard if the car is in rear brake maintenance mode you can just use a c-clamp on the rear calipers
You did not replace or turn the rotors, Every time you change your pads you should change your rotors. At a minimum, you should measure the rotor's thickness to make sure it is not too thin. Or am I missing something?
I Agree with Mark Wisner you should at least resurface, rotors if not replace otherwise good video
I agree, Mark. A simple tool from Harbor Freight to measure the thickness of the rotors will prevent the eventual failure of the calipers as they push the pistons so far out that fluid begins leaking around the seal. I've noticed in the last few years that rotors are designed with minimal thickness and won't outlast the pads under normal use. So, getting in the mindset of purchasing the rotors with the new pads will save time and money overall. By that's my humble opinion. It's been my experience that, unlike the 80s and 90s where I could take my rotors in for turning, it just isn't done anymore since the rotors have been coming out of the box with only 3-4mm of surface before minimum change out. The new pads of today are much more aggressive and wear the surface down faster?
Did this solve your rubbing noise, particularly at the rear driver side that had the imbalanced pad wear? I'm assuming it was resolved by cleaning up your caliper pins? Thanks
Putting it in service mode is to retract the parking brake you still need to spin the caliper piston
Great video keep them comeing
Great video! Well explained
Nice informative video, thanks.
QUESTION: I am doing my brakes right now, and i came to the issue you did at roughly the 7 minute mark where you say "i made a mistake" i have felt the hard stop and it does not collapse anymore. How did you get it to collapse. Ive pushed, turned, turned and pushed and nothing.
Alfredo Cortez it might be a little late for you, but I just pushed on the piston with the bleeder valve open and it was able to move in another several mm. Putting the parking brakes into service mode may help with this too. It seems like it disengages the "turning" part and allows you to simply push them all of the way.
I just change my pads but after I was done my breaks are not responding the first time you push the the pedal goes all the way in you need to pump the brakes until it starts breaking. Did you experience that too
Yes I took it to Ford and there was air in the sistem . They told me you have to bleed the system
Did you still have to take the cap off the brake fluid container in engine department
Do u need that special tool..?cause I just use my old brake pad and a clamp
The torque is 100 ft.lbs the brake fluid should be DOT4 LV fluid only. these cars have torque vectoring and FORD says LV ONLY if you dillute the factory fluid you may cause serious problems with this advanced breaking system.....
Surprised you didn't put new rotor on.
Hello. Can you describe how tonout "service mode"?
I have a 2016 fusion titanium and I just did the rear brakes and now they have air In them. Do you know if it has independent brake lines or do I have to bleed all of them?
lol if you did this guys procedure lol you probably did get air in the lines.
@@tsgarage2382 I fixed it. Pain in the ass but I fixed it.
I read the Ford Fusion lug nut torque specs were 100 ft-lbs not 75. Is that correct?
Thanks for the video.👍
Did you tighten the top caliper pin, did not see you do it in the video.
That's what I was thinking, too! Glad I wasn't the only one :)
This guy did an awesome job. But in my owners manual (2014 Ford Fusion) mine said the lug nut specs were 100 ft pounds
yes and re torque after 50 to 100 miles.
Thanks for the video
Great video, thank you for posting!
great video!
How many miles did you have on your fusion when this happened?
Thanks for the video.
What size is the brake piston tool
Did you have to put the car into service mode in order to do the brake job?
I actually saw a video about that while uploading this one. I didn't do it, but it sounds like it may remove the process of spinning the piston in, and allow you to simply push the fluid out of the bleeder valve.
How did you judge whether or not to change your rotors?
Hello Heath, thanks for watching. I only have about 40k miles on this vehicle and the rotors looked to be wearing evenly, so I did not need to. If the thin pad wore all of the way, the steel back plate would have damaged the rotor, and I would have needed a new one. Good thing I checked!
Does the Ford brake pads has the small metal tab that touch the hub and squeal when the pads are worn? The GM brake pads do.
Awesome how-to.
Great job thanks for video
Thanks awesome video!
I have chang the brak pad back weels .but runing th car is showing the meter of write now,parking function...................no par fect of brack
Great job, thanks
Thanks Peter
Well done.
How do you disable to work on car?
My caliper won’t screw back in, what can I do?
did you find a fix
Where did you purchase the square compression piece and how much was it
I purchased the little caliper spinner from Amazon for about $10. Lisle 28600 was the model.
Brian Bolden zf
Brian Bolden Sears sells it too for that price
Brian Bolden you really don't need to buy that you can use the tips of needle nose works just as good to
Have 2016 I used 15mm socket 7mm hex and piston pusher for job. PUT YOUR VEHICLE IN SERVICE MODE!!
1st son what do you mean "service mode"??? I have a 2015 titanium with three 2.0L turbo awd
Mine won’t compress it just spins what do I do
When you put in service mode, were you able to just press the piston in with a C clamp? No meed to twist? Thanks!
Mine look like a clip why doesn't yours have a clip
Good job thanks.
Oh great. Those darn hex things.
thank you!
How much For that special piece
thank you
crud i watched the whole thing thinking you were doing a brake job and you didnt do the rotors. New title . Brake pad job . I dont like the idea of the square tool , seems like you can slip and mess up the seal. I cant say i have ever seen the grooves in any of my older cars, it must be a new thing. C clamp
I don't Crack bleader I take lid off reservoir
Its extremely dangerous to use your roadside jack to do service on your vehicle. It is not sturdy enough to withstand any lateral movement caused by working on your vehicle.
Thank you! :-)
😎👍
Again another video when someone is not using the service mode. It's much easier to do a brake job on theses cars if it's in service mode it spins the piston in no tool required and it snugs the pads to the rotor after the brake job.
You have to put your car into matinace mode
Efrain O how do you put in in maintenance mode?
1. you set the ignition to ON
2. Press and hold the accelerator pedal and place the EPB switch to release (downward) position. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and EPB.
3. Set the ignition to OFF and then set the ignition to ON within 5 seconds. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch while doing that.
After the system goes into service mode you can then turn off the ignition and do your brake job.
@@efraino1618 what if you didnt do this at the start then tried to do it.. and accidentally engaged the parking break.. which then caused an error, piston is now fully out and wont go back in
@@JV-dj5xl what did u end up doing!?
@@MRIMan I used a c clamp to push piston back into position, but he piston only went in a little not nearly enough space for the new pads. So I decided to start over, I put the old pads back in, put the caliper back into place, threw the tire back on, started the car(error is still flashing on dash) then I engaged the parking break waited a second then disengaged the parking break. This cleared the error on my dash. I then turned off the car and did the 5 second brake maintenance mode trick. Once it was in maintenance mode you can easily push the piston back in with just a c clamp or pad spreader.
Great Vid. Dont say "so" at the start of every sentence. It sounds insecure, whereby you dont sound confident with what youre about to say.
my wife bought this car and it damn near caused a divorce...i fucking hate this car
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