This is good. thankyou. A lot of people just say the new ones are rubbish and leave it at that. Looking forward to seeing how much work it takes to get this one working then I hope you make some direct comparisons to an old one and this new one as users.
For context, I'm from Mexico. I have bought no.4 planes from Stanley and Truper (mexican brand) and I got to say I was very surprised (and sad) at the difference in quality we get in Latinamerica. The one you unboxed is way better than the ones I got (even our Stanley version)... I've spent a lot of hours to make them work as they are supposed to and still I'm not pleased with them -- to that I'll add I'm just a novice making the effort. Anyway, thanks for sharing.
Interesting. Stanley are the “premium” brand for Bunnings in NZ, and I expect Aussie too. Stanley No 4 Bench Plane 1-12-004 going for NZ$195 There’s a couple of really cheap ones, craftright and Trojan, for NZ$35. 1/5 the price of Stanley. I’m wondering how bad they can be if the Stanley is as you describe. Would it be worth buying total bottom end and putting work in. I guess the real question is how much work do I want to do to save NZ$160 to end up with a mediocre/cheap plane, even if the Stanley takes a bit of tuning itself.
In recent times the price of new Stanley hand planes have gone up quite a bit . 1-12-004 when i got it was $99, but that was about 2 years ago (sat on the shelf for a while). Now it seems bunnings here in australia isnt selling that model or i cant find it. They are found elsewhere here for around $160aud or amazon selling it for $107aud with free delivery from the UK. I have not looked at the craft right or trojan ones $35 & $72.50 aud however the reviews are not good. There is also 1-12-204 stanley handyman at bunning here in aust 110 aud or 87aud on Amazon, which i also have not looked at, so cant comment on these at the moment, but i may review them in the future As for putting the work in on a stanley plane, if you can get them for a decent price or second hand i think it is worth it for a first handplane. I think they are made to a better quality than the cheap makers based on other items I have purchased from those brands. But as i have not used them i cannot recommend using them. Many say the same thing about new Stanley hand planes when compared to mid range makers like Luban $269aud for no4. I also have this video ruclips.net/video/XcppHlkWmXg/видео.html where i go through initial setup of the 1-12-004 Stanley bailey hand plane if you haven't already seen it, so see how involved it was for the one i had. Hope this helps, wish i could give you a better answer. Nothing worse than buying a tool that doesn't work as intended.
I'd like to point out to new woodworkers who treat YT videos as gospel. Many channels will tell you that the sides of the plane must be absolutely square to the sole - that is not true. The lateral adjustment makes the blade edge run at 90 degrees to the sole of the plane or when when using it on a shooting board. The new Stanley plane can easily accommodate that requirement in both scenarios. From 40+ years experience, my only complaints are the plastic handles (which are easily replaced with wooden ones) and the wide mouth - which can be reduced by moving the frog forward or, better still, by rounding the blade and using it as a scrub plane; it is perfect for the latter...!
I can't see Bunnings moving too many $600 Lie-Neilsen bench planes 😆 The Bunnings Stanley looked very similar to my $80 Groz Bailey plane which was made in India. Takes a lot of work to get them close to making shavings. But for machine woodworkers it will do fine.
I am unsure where they are made, as i was unable to find this information online. Nothing was included on the hand plane or the box and packaging to suggest where it was made either.
I bought a Stanley bailey no 4 and it is rubbish straight out of the box. How can Stanley stuff up a tool they have been making for 100 years?. I have to dismantle it after 4/5 passes to remove all the wood fibres that get wedged between the blade and that blade holder. It actually stops shaving after 4 strokes, the blade holder must be too flexible compared to older models, very disappointing
The quality of the new Stanley Bailey hand planes are definitely not as good as the good old days. I haven't experienced what you described, however there are a few different models around. When you say the blade holder, do you mean the chip breaker / Cap Iron? If the shaving are getting stuck between the chip breaker and the blade, it can be very frustrating. I will assume this is the case (correct me if i am wrong) All Stanley planes new or old need to have the mating of the chip breaker and back of the blade corrected so they come together without any gap. The back of the blade needs to be flat and the edge of the chip breaker need to be flat and square and come to a fine point to achieve this. If there is only a fraction of a gap between the chip breaker and the back of the blade the shaving can work their way between the 2 and jam the plane up. I have 2 videos i have on my channel that go through this in more detail. This first video covers how i prepared a new Stanley Bailey hand plane, including everything i checked: ruclips.net/video/XcppHlkWmXg/видео.html The other video is a dedicated video on how to prepare a new old style chip breaker : ruclips.net/video/-r0xvK5lbu0/видео.html I hope this help you out with you problem.
Hi Mate, (sorry don't know your name) Yes, that is exactly what's happening, The timber is old hardwood so it is very splintery and doesn't curl up like new wood would. I know I can fix it with a bit of grinding but I think they should do that at the factory, I thought Stanley planes were an heirloom tool, but not so sure with this one. I just get frustrated when tried and trusted designs are made inferior for no reason. Thanks for your response...BB @@AussieWoodshed
@@bradbutler4682 It is definitely annoying when something that works well is changed, usually to make extra $$$. Lie-Nielsen hand planes are meant to be ready to go from the factory, but i think a little fettling is still required, not sure as I've never owned one, too pricey for me.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
ordered one and will see :-) I am hobby crafter, so It should probably be great for me!
@@marek2322 Once the chip breaker is fitted correctly to the blade without any gaps it will work great. I have a video on this if you need it.
This is good. thankyou. A lot of people just say the new ones are rubbish and leave it at that. Looking forward to seeing how much work it takes to get this one working then I hope you make some direct comparisons to an old one and this new one as users.
My pleasure, glad you liked the video.
A little fine tuning goes a long way. I have a couple of these planes, and they work 👌
They certainly work fine once setup, just a pitty so many over look them. Glad someone else agrees with me.
All I did with mine was change the handles to wooden, feels nice now.
For context, I'm from Mexico. I have bought no.4 planes from Stanley and Truper (mexican brand) and I got to say I was very surprised (and sad) at the difference in quality we get in Latinamerica. The one you unboxed is way better than the ones I got (even our Stanley version)... I've spent a lot of hours to make them work as they are supposed to and still I'm not pleased with them -- to that I'll add I'm just a novice making the effort. Anyway, thanks for sharing.
Thats interesting the difference in quality, maybe poor quality control. Thanks for sharing
Everything has a silver lining, you've probably learnt to care for and to prepare tools like a true master! Hardship creates ingenuity, keep at it
Interesting. Stanley are the “premium” brand for Bunnings in NZ, and I expect Aussie too. Stanley No 4 Bench Plane 1-12-004 going for NZ$195
There’s a couple of really cheap ones, craftright and Trojan, for NZ$35. 1/5 the price of Stanley.
I’m wondering how bad they can be if the Stanley is as you describe. Would it be worth buying total bottom end and putting work in.
I guess the real question is how much work do I want to do to save NZ$160 to end up with a mediocre/cheap plane, even if the Stanley takes a bit of tuning itself.
In recent times the price of new Stanley hand planes have gone up quite a bit . 1-12-004 when i got it was $99, but that was about 2 years ago (sat on the shelf for a while).
Now it seems bunnings here in australia isnt selling that model or i cant find it. They are found elsewhere here for around $160aud or amazon selling it for $107aud with free delivery from the UK.
I have not looked at the craft right or trojan ones $35 & $72.50 aud however the reviews are not good.
There is also 1-12-204 stanley handyman at bunning here in aust 110 aud or 87aud on Amazon, which i also have not looked at, so cant comment on these at the moment, but i may review them in the future
As for putting the work in on a stanley plane, if you can get them for a decent price or second hand i think it is worth it for a first handplane. I think they are made to a better quality than the cheap makers based on other items I have purchased from those brands. But as i have not used them i cannot recommend using them.
Many say the same thing about new Stanley hand planes when compared to mid range makers like Luban $269aud for no4.
I also have this video ruclips.net/video/XcppHlkWmXg/видео.html where i go through initial setup of the 1-12-004 Stanley bailey hand plane if you haven't already seen it, so see how involved it was for the one i had.
Hope this helps, wish i could give you a better answer. Nothing worse than buying a tool that doesn't work as intended.
I'd like to point out to new woodworkers who treat YT videos as gospel. Many channels will tell you that the sides of the plane must be absolutely square to the sole - that is not true. The lateral adjustment makes the blade edge run at 90 degrees to the sole of the plane or when when using it on a shooting board. The new Stanley plane can easily accommodate that requirement in both scenarios. From 40+ years experience, my only complaints are the plastic handles (which are easily replaced with wooden ones) and the wide mouth - which can be reduced by moving the frog forward or, better still, by rounding the blade and using it as a scrub plane; it is perfect for the latter...!
Thanks Pete for sharing your knowledge and helping everyone out, much appreciated.
I can't see Bunnings moving too many $600 Lie-Neilsen bench planes 😆
The Bunnings Stanley looked very similar to my $80 Groz Bailey plane which was made in India. Takes a lot of work to get them close to making shavings. But for machine woodworkers it will do fine.
Yeah. I definitely haven't seen any $600 premium planes at Bunnings
At how much can i get a no 5.5 in uganda plus shipping costs?
I have no idea, you would have to check yourself. I don't sell them
how’s everything going?~fellow.what a super !📹
great, thanks
Aren't they made in China now
I am unsure where they are made, as i was unable to find this information online. Nothing was included on the hand plane or the box and packaging to suggest where it was made either.
I bought a Stanley bailey no 4 and it is rubbish straight out of the box. How can Stanley stuff up a tool they have been making for 100 years?. I have to dismantle it after 4/5 passes to remove all the wood fibres that get wedged between the blade and that blade holder. It actually stops shaving after 4 strokes, the blade holder must be too flexible compared to older models, very disappointing
The quality of the new Stanley Bailey hand planes are definitely not as good as the good old days. I haven't experienced what you described, however there are a few different models around.
When you say the blade holder, do you mean the chip breaker / Cap Iron? If the shaving are getting stuck between the chip breaker and the blade, it can be very frustrating. I will assume this is the case (correct me if i am wrong)
All Stanley planes new or old need to have the mating of the chip breaker and back of the blade corrected so they come together without any gap. The back of the blade needs to be flat and the edge of the chip breaker need to be flat and square and come to a fine point to achieve this. If there is only a fraction of a gap between the chip breaker and the back of the blade the shaving can work their way between the 2 and jam the plane up.
I have 2 videos i have on my channel that go through this in more detail.
This first video covers how i prepared a new Stanley Bailey hand plane, including everything i checked: ruclips.net/video/XcppHlkWmXg/видео.html
The other video is a dedicated video on how to prepare a new old style chip breaker : ruclips.net/video/-r0xvK5lbu0/видео.html
I hope this help you out with you problem.
Hi Mate, (sorry don't know your name) Yes, that is exactly what's happening, The timber is old hardwood so it is very splintery and doesn't curl up like new wood would. I know I can fix it with a bit of grinding but I think they should do that at the factory, I thought Stanley planes were an heirloom tool, but not so sure with this one. I just get frustrated when tried and trusted designs are made inferior for no reason. Thanks for your response...BB @@AussieWoodshed
@@bradbutler4682 It is definitely annoying when something that works well is changed, usually to make extra $$$. Lie-Nielsen hand planes are meant to be ready to go from the factory, but i think a little fettling is still required, not sure as I've never owned one, too pricey for me.
With the possible exception of a boutique plane, any bench plane, vintage or new, needs to be prepared. It's done only once and doesn't take long.