During months and months, I have been trying to install an LD2410B Kit, watching all the tutorials available on this subject, including yours. I failed and failed. I finally bought the LD2410"C" model and it worked magically. Thank you 1.000 times! And keep posting your videos.
I Just created a digital clock and message board using a 8x32 LED matrix. It's all Home Assistant driven. My plan was to integrate the LD2410 sensor in the clock to just display the time/date/temperature when somebody is detected in front of the clock. I have that now working with a Shelly Motion sensor, that triggers a Tuya USB Smart switch that powers the D1 Mini running WLED and the Matrix board. If I can put the LD2410 sensor on another ESP board with relay, I can use that to enable/disable power to the WLED
I am using the same yaml file as your example. But it would not work on my esp32 wroom dev board. After searching around a bit I found that under the uart setting you have to put the GPIO for RX pin and GPIO for TX pin. Just thought I would pass it along. Great Video Keep Up The Good Work..... uart: id: ld2410_uart tx_pin: GPIO1 rx_pin: GPIO3 baud_rate: 256000 parity: NONE stop_bits: 1
Hello Kiryu, I want to tell you that you are one of the main reasons that I moved from Hubitat to HA and I am so happy even if it needs a lot of learning so thank you! very much.
Hello Kiryu, i've been using this sensor with a c3 mini, bme680, PIR, gy-302 as an all in one sensor for every room in my home. remove most false triggers
Been using mine LD2410C for about a week now. For now been just playing with it and getting to the point where I just got it perfect tooned in. For my first automation I've just made a simple one, When I sit down on my office chair, it will turn off the ceiling light and turn on a smaller wifi lamp. When ever it will sense presence in my pc chair the light will stay on and when I go to the sofa (mainly when I want to watch some movies) it will turn that lamp off. My objective is, when I build in my new desk the sensor will turn on the LEDs that I will be installing on the setup, and every time I leave the setup they will turn off.
@@KPeyanski for now pairing it with a esp32 with Bluetooth proxy. I probably will do some kind of project of a lamp controlled with WLED and with this chip wired to it. Would be a great way to combine both boards I guess.
I have bought two LD2410C boards to detect when someone is on the stairs in my house. I'll then set up lighting with WLED. Because the stairs go round two 90 degree turns I decided to put one sensor at the top and one at the bottom. I'm assuming they'll each need a ESP32 board to complete this setup. Great video - thank you for all the useful information!
There's an esphome PR 4434 that vastly improves LD2410 sensors in esphome which will hopefully be merged soon. It allows configuring all the thresholds in homeassistant rather than having to have them statically in the yaml.
Professionally for Small store automation... Ring if no one is in the store area and someones enters... small neighbourhood shops... personally for light control in certain areas of my house...
Hello Kiryu, I created a smart led staircase. All steps have a WS2811 LED strip attached and I use 4 radars. 1 radar on top and 1 on bottom, and 1 radar going down, 1 radar going up from the middle because I have an entrance in my house from the middle. Middle sensors act as boolean to avoid triggering the top and bottom radars. I used 2 ESP32 to which I attached 1 x LD2410 + 1 x LD1125H
Hi there! Your smart LED staircase project sounds impressive and well-thought-out with the combination of WS2811 LED strips and multiple radars. The use of boolean sensors to manage the top, bottom, and middle radars is also very clever. Did you plan all of this in advance and then implemented it or it was more like step-by-step process?
@@KPeyanski Thanks for your reply Peyanski. At first I thought about using small recessed PIR sensors but it would have implied structurally modifying the poles of the handrail, it was complicated. Then I bought a FP2 sensor for the Top trigger but it was too much expensive for this project to buy more just for a trigger. I discovered LD2140 with your first video on this device and then I changed my plans. I first bought 4 x LD2140, plugged them by BLE with a BT-Proxy, and soon realized it was unreliable for quick triggers and couldn't handle 4 devices simultaneously. I then discovered LD1125H from Digiblur video and I was impressed by how accurate and fast it was. I decided to buy 2 x LD1125H for the main triggers and decided to move the LD2140 to ESPHome for faster and more reliable triggers for my booleans, and managed to combine 2 radars by ESP32. I also created a virtual switch with an extra ESP32 to trigger the LED controller by replicating the behavior of a standard PIR motion sensor. So basically I have 4 radars that act as booleans, and the top and bottom booleans ends up triggering virtual switch that sends 3.3V to the LED controller. I've learned so much from the Home Assistant community, I put that good knowledge to use! You was part of that HA adventure, I built my HA-Supervised watching your videos. Thanks Peyanski!
On the spec sheets it lists the D1 Mini output as 3.3V and the presence radars' operating voltage as 5V-12V. Shouldn't the output voltage of the ESP be within the operating voltage of the attached sensor or is the difference between 3.3V to 5V small enough that it can be ignored?
I want the lights in my garage/shop to come on when I enter and STAY on while I'm working, that will be my first project. They're already on a smart switch, and will turn off after 20 minutes if I forget, but it would be better if they turned-on/off automatically. Thanks for the info, can't wait for the parts to come in!
Do you have any guidance on the "i2c" section of your code? I'm trying to use a Wemos D1 Mini and it won't compile with your i2c block (even if I adjust the pins to ones that exist in my board). But without it, I can see the device and "visit" its web interface, but it doesn't detect anything (all values are "NA".) It's also possible (likely?) that it's some other setting, the "i2c" just stands out.
Hi Kiryl! I tried to use YAML that was mentioned in your article but failed now matter how many times I tried. ESPHome advised to use Numbers in the code, in the ESPHome documentation they show the sample. Could you please advise how to combine the whole code with Numbers. Thank you!
Could the ESP32 not only connect the LD2410 (wired) but also be a bluetooth proxy for other LD2410 around the house? Also I think you should make a video on how to best power these devices... it's simple enough to use a USB cable but maybe there's a great/cheap way to have these setup around the house without using up 1 socket with an unsightly cable...
I bought some of the Bluetooth ones a while back and tried them with the HA's Bluetooth interface but couldn't get them going. Realised a bit later that the metal case of the pi was probably blocking it. When I put the module closer to the pi it worked fine, but not much good if all the sensors have to be within a short distance from the pi. Going to give this a try with the remaining modules to see if I can spread them around the house a bit.
You can get the new ESPHome code from the same link in the video description or in the article. Can you please try again now and let me know what is the result?
@@KPeyanski yes, I found out that. I've made a yaml according to new specification and compiling os OK now. To be honest my problem is different: my sensors (LD2410 & LD2410B) do not want to work with Wemos D1 mini (tested on v.3.0 & v.4.0) - all entities are unknown. That was under old yaml and the same is now. I can see on HA forum that many people has got a problem with it but nobody has found out the solution that can work :(
I am also searching for this answer. Just trying to get every wifi smarthome device of my wifi network. I have only 2 curtain motors left which work on wifi, so i don't want any more. And it would be nice that it also can act as a zigbee router
Beautiful. Magnificent. Прекрасно. I`ve struggled a bit, but found this,edited the code a little bit. And there is no more suffering. Благодарско и напред.
What im wondering more about, it how you use these sensors in your automations, as the has target turns off and on from time to time, so if you set it as a trigger, it keeps running the automation over and over again
Do you like the soldering iron? I'm almost buying a weller, but I'm looking for a more inexpensive alternative that works the same. It has to work good as a weller does
Hi I’ve tried several boards but no luck - d1 mini with esp 8266, node mcu with esp 8266, not possible to got through the steps. Then took esp32 node mcu still don’t get the ui as you show in your video also not the data. Something is not correct on my side - can you pls help? ESP 8266 yml would be great as esp32 is overkill I think. Thx and b.rgds
It works when connected to HA server but when I unplug from the HA server and put in a new location with power, it doesn't work. What is your idea?? I connected the LD2410 to ESP32 Wrover Dev.
Hello thanks for the knowledge sharing... please I got the LD2420, do you have experience with it or will yaml code for LD2410 also work for it... thanks
Some advice: mmwave radar doesnt pass through every material, its dependent on the relative permitivity of the material, but to keep it simple, theres a chapter about placement and a simple formula in the datasheet of the ld2410 (which can easily be found online)
@@l0gic23 Unfortunately, it did not work :( The LD2410 requires 5V supply, the Shelly only outputs 3.3V. This makes the detection very unreliable, rebooting the LD2410 frequently and misreporting presence a lot. Too bad :(
@@KPeyanski Sorry, I mean can BLE tracking on the D1Mini be enabled while combined with LD2410 wired for presence detection? I currently have the LD2410 wired directly to the d1mini for power and ground but I wanted to try wiring it like on the video so that it doesnt rely on blutooth connection. Also since it is not connected via blutooth, I was hopping to use BLE tracking on the same hardware.
Hello Can I use a ESP32 board to be a Bluetooth proxy and also connect to ld2410c? I need a Bluetooth proxy and a ld2410c sensor which can be connected through Wi-Fi , so I was wondering can I make it happen with one ESP32 board?
And the most important thing that everyone omits to say is that regardless of the settings, it shows the false presence if you open the window in the room to let the air out, if the curtain moves due to air currents, if an engine is turned on, if the fan is on kind of indicates the false presence in the room... so it's not quite as perfect as everyone presents it...
It's cheap for nothing if it doesn't work properly and it shows false presence and when you're in the room with it and you stay still for a long time the sensor shows that no one is present, I've tested several sensors and they all do the same, it's right for the world to know what problems will they face after buying them... and working this way, even the automations don't work as you set them...@@KPeyanski
@@dantoma9160 Honestly i can stay at my desk for long periods of time and the sensor does not clear even once. But within 30 sec. of leaving the room it clears. As far as detecting motion that's what its made for. You can limit the range to stop false detections of objects moving outside windows and such and even detecting like ceiling fans. I have 2 of the ld2410C's in my bedroom, both limited to half the room each to stop it from detecting my ceiling fan, works great.
@@dantoma9160not having any of the issues you are mentioning. I've been running it for several months now in my office. I had absolutely ZERO issues... It has been rock solid and even detects me if I don’t move at all (my breathing is enough).
You are kind of putting light under the table and complaining that they dont light the room and are pointless for making room lighter@@dantoma9160. Think about the conditions and use things accordingly. You can place the sensor to where it will not pick up environmental changes like that. From window wall facing to the other way so no wind or curtain movements would be in it's field of view, quite easy fix.
Hi Kiryu, the issue with LD2410 (B/C version) over Bluetooth was that it sends a ton of data over that interface and BT link drops. There was no way to limit amount of data that is been sent. Moving to tx/rx interface and using wifi to connect to HA, this issue might be closed. Can you share your experience on how much data is been sent to HA with config that you described? Is this adustable via ESPHome config - like having 5 second for timeout?
You can remove the entire section under Sensor that says this Sensor: - platform: ld2410 moving_distance: name: Moving Distance still_distance: name: Still Distance moving_energy: name: Move Energy detection_distance: name: Detection Distance and it will still work for detecting what's under the binary_sensor section. This will greatly reduce the amount of data transmitted over wifi as it will stop reporting that info while still providing presence detection, moving target detection and still target detection as normal.
i hv installed 15 sensors in a building with roof ceiling .. it works but if u start watching movie or stay perfect still for few seconds it start losing still energy and after short time it ill show no presence until u start moving again... specially i am facing terrible experience in washroom .... (tried all combinations with esphome, using direct out pin with andriod app, all settings, different voltages 5-12v) what i found this sensor will only work in home environment and your chest should be infront of sensor otherwises ill not work properly and in office where you hv to install it on roof side and you have many people in room it will work as PIR motion sensor not presence sensor.... cus if your chest is not infront of this sensor it will stop detecting you after some time
Thank you for sharing your experience with these sensors. It's valuable to hear about the challenges you've faced, especially in areas like the washroom. It sounds like you've put a lot of effort into trying different configurations and settings. Your insights will undoubtedly be helpful for others considering similar installations. It's great that you've taken the time to experiment and share your findings. If you ever come across any breakthroughs or have further thoughts, feel free to reach out. Thank you again for your contribution!
Hi I was a big fan of your ikea air quality sensor hack and following that video i made two of them which are still in use today. But I feel this videos seems to be rushed like a goal set to finsh the video within 5 minutes or so. This vidoe would have had a great potential for slow pacers like me if the length of the video was bit long and the details bit more in depth. Please consider it next time when you make the videos
Hi there! Thank you so much for your kind words and for giving the IKEA air quality sensor hack a try! 😊 I appreciate your feedback about the video's pace. I'll definitely take your suggestion to heart and aim for a more in-depth approach in future videos. It's fantastic to hear that you've successfully implemented two sensors - kudos to you for being a speedy DIY enthusiast! Keep an eye out for more content, and I'll strive to strike the right balance in video length and detail.
I tried this, but I keep having issues with Bluetooth drops. I used ESP32s for a while, but it was super inconsistent. I tried the Shelly plugs with Bluetooth and it got better, but still kept getting constant Bluetooth drops and disconnects from the LD2410C. Any thoughts?
Using ESP 32 as shown in the video works perfectly for me. You can try limiting the max still and moving distance's that might help also you might adjust the gates 0-8 values. It takes partice and patience, but then anything you build yourself does. Nice thing about DIYing your own sensors when something fails you can usually fix it yourself. 😀
@@HATipsByLarry thanks. My issue is not the distance, but rather two things: 1) Setting it up. HA keeps giving me an Unexpected Error. 2) When I finally get it to work, the device keeps losing connectivity and becomes UNAVAILABLE despite me having bluetooth proxies and it being very close to my HA machine
Hi. Great video. Really enjoying your explanations. Are there any comparisons of the features that are different vs an FP2? I’m fine with the diy difference (and cost). How about the ability to define zones with a single sensor? Thanks!
I made one of these sensors for my bathroom cuz it can tell if I'm in the shower as the mm-waves go through the glass door. Now the light doesn't go off when I'm in the shower!
@@jackiepaper101 I did same was able to fit the LD2410C and the BH1750 light sensor in a very small project box. I had to de-solder the LD2410C pin header because using DuPont cable connecters on the pin header made it to big to fit the project box i wanted to put it in. Can't seem to find any place selling the LD2410C sensor without the pin header already soldered on.
They are super sensitive but you can set a max distance beyond which they won't pick up on any movement. So if cats are on the ground and sensor is up high & set to the right distance, it should, in theory, not pick them up? Might take some fine tuning.
If you use them outside, they don't work if it's raining. They just continuously report a presence. They also report a presence if a person is behind the sensor.
@@KPeyanski Yep minimum sensitivity setting at 2meters, picks up the neighbors cat too. Very disappointed and means they have very limited use. How do you "Block" the field of view, with a PIR sensor you can block of parts of it's field of view with electrical tape or a bit of plastic etc.
I just bought the items linked in the description and for the first time I'm not able to flash the D1 mini although I have quite a few of them already, but that's my first mini. I get an error: "Failed to execute 'open' on 'SerialPort': Failed to open serial port." No other ESPs have this problem. @KPeyanski, would you be able to help?
It happens to me once or twice, but I manage to sort it out by connecting (shortening) the pins and start flashing: D3 Gnd D4 3v3 If the aboce doesn't help, then contact the seller and ask for refund/replace
I have tried to follow this tutorial, using a ESP8266 but unfortunatelly without luck. First problem seems to be the yaml code (ESPHome-YAML-ld2410-esp32.yaml), as it seems to be only for ESP32. Using this code it will return Failed to connect, No serial data received. Disconnecting the LD2410C returns wrong chip argument (somehow logic). So I added a new device based on device type esp8266 and added only lines 31-226 from ESPHome-YAML-ld2410-esp32.yaml to the yaml of the esp8266. This returns invalid pin number: 21 (SDA) and 22 (SCL). Looking to the pinout for esp8266 SDA should be 4 and SCL 5. The installation seems to be complete " INFO Successfully uploaded program" but seems to be stuck with latest entry "Performing I2C bus recovery". Is there something else that needs to be changed in the yaml code, in order to work with the ESP8266?
Did you ever get this working I also have LD2410C and an ESP8266, Although i managed to get something installed, all entities are Unknown, and the Blue Light on off if in reverse.
Hi. I get this error when I try to install with your supplied yaml. INFO ESPHome 2023.8.2 INFO Reading configuration /config/esphome/ld2410-esp32.yaml... ERROR Error while reading config: Invalid YAML syntax: Duplicate key "api" in "/config/esphome/ld2410-esp32.yaml", line 36, column 1: api: ^ NOTE: Previous declaration here: in "/config/esphome/ld2410-esp32.yaml", line 14, column 1: api: ^
During months and months, I have been trying to install an LD2410B Kit, watching all the tutorials available on this subject, including yours. I failed and failed. I finally bought the LD2410"C" model and it worked magically. Thank you 1.000 times! And keep posting your videos.
Glad I could help! Enjoy!
I Just created a digital clock and message board using a 8x32 LED matrix. It's all Home Assistant driven. My plan was to integrate the LD2410 sensor in the clock to just display the time/date/temperature when somebody is detected in front of the clock. I have that now working with a Shelly Motion sensor, that triggers a Tuya USB Smart switch that powers the D1 Mini running WLED and the Matrix board. If I can put the LD2410 sensor on another ESP board with relay, I can use that to enable/disable power to the WLED
Sounds like a great project :) And your idea is doable...
I am using the same yaml file as your example. But it would not work on my esp32 wroom dev board. After searching around a bit I found that under the uart setting you have to put the GPIO for RX pin and GPIO for TX pin. Just thought I would pass it along. Great Video Keep Up The Good Work.....
uart:
id: ld2410_uart
tx_pin: GPIO1
rx_pin: GPIO3
baud_rate: 256000
parity: NONE
stop_bits: 1
Hello Kiryu,
I want to tell you that you are one of the main reasons that I moved from Hubitat to HA and I am so happy even if it needs a lot of learning so thank you! very much.
Wow, thank you. Glad I didn’t disappoint :) Are you going to try this?
Hello Kiryu, i've been using this sensor with a c3 mini, bme680, PIR, gy-302 as an all in one sensor for every room in my home. remove most false triggers
Great, do you install ESPHome on them? Also, are you using some custom 3d printed cases?
@@KPeyanskiyes esphome with 3d printed case
@@gbell5460Would love to see a video or insteuctble or something if you were interested in sharing more
Been using mine LD2410C for about a week now. For now been just playing with it and getting to the point where I just got it perfect tooned in. For my first automation I've just made a simple one, When I sit down on my office chair, it will turn off the ceiling light and turn on a smaller wifi lamp. When ever it will sense presence in my pc chair the light will stay on and when I go to the sofa (mainly when I want to watch some movies) it will turn that lamp off.
My objective is, when I build in my new desk the sensor will turn on the LEDs that I will be installing on the setup, and every time I leave the setup they will turn off.
Sounds really good? Are you using them over Bluetooth or with esp board?
@@KPeyanski for now pairing it with a esp32 with Bluetooth proxy. I probably will do some kind of project of a lamp controlled with WLED and with this chip wired to it. Would be a great way to combine both boards I guess.
I have bought two LD2410C boards to detect when someone is on the stairs in my house. I'll then set up lighting with WLED. Because the stairs go round two 90 degree turns I decided to put one sensor at the top and one at the bottom. I'm assuming they'll each need a ESP32 board to complete this setup.
Great video - thank you for all the useful information!
Hey bro I need your help
There's an esphome PR 4434 that vastly improves LD2410 sensors in esphome which will hopefully be merged soon. It allows configuring all the thresholds in homeassistant rather than having to have them statically in the yaml.
That's great news about the improved LD2410 sensors in esphome! Anyways, how has your experience been with LD2410 so far?
Is there any update about this?
Was it merged?
Professionally for Small store automation... Ring if no one is in the store area and someones enters... small neighbourhood shops... personally for light control in certain areas of my house...
Great ideas 💡 thanks for sharing them. Are you going to try some of them?
Hello Kiryu, I created a smart led staircase. All steps have a WS2811 LED strip attached and I use 4 radars. 1 radar on top and 1 on bottom, and 1 radar going down, 1 radar going up from the middle because I have an entrance in my house from the middle. Middle sensors act as boolean to avoid triggering the top and bottom radars. I used 2 ESP32 to which I attached 1 x LD2410 + 1 x LD1125H
Hi there! Your smart LED staircase project sounds impressive and well-thought-out with the combination of WS2811 LED strips and multiple radars. The use of boolean sensors to manage the top, bottom, and middle radars is also very clever. Did you plan all of this in advance and then implemented it or it was more like step-by-step process?
@@KPeyanski Thanks for your reply Peyanski. At first I thought about using small recessed PIR sensors but it would have implied structurally modifying the poles of the handrail, it was complicated. Then I bought a FP2 sensor for the Top trigger but it was too much expensive for this project to buy more just for a trigger. I discovered LD2140 with your first video on this device and then I changed my plans. I first bought 4 x LD2140, plugged them by BLE with a BT-Proxy, and soon realized it was unreliable for quick triggers and couldn't handle 4 devices simultaneously. I then discovered LD1125H from Digiblur video and I was impressed by how accurate and fast it was. I decided to buy 2 x LD1125H for the main triggers and decided to move the LD2140 to ESPHome for faster and more reliable triggers for my booleans, and managed to combine 2 radars by ESP32. I also created a virtual switch with an extra ESP32 to trigger the LED controller by replicating the behavior of a standard PIR motion sensor. So basically I have 4 radars that act as booleans, and the top and bottom booleans ends up triggering virtual switch that sends 3.3V to the LED controller. I've learned so much from the Home Assistant community, I put that good knowledge to use! You was part of that HA adventure, I built my HA-Supervised watching your videos. Thanks Peyanski!
@@KPeyanski”step-by-step step”, I like it. 🙂
On the spec sheets it lists the D1 Mini output as 3.3V and the presence radars' operating voltage as 5V-12V. Shouldn't the output voltage of the ESP be within the operating voltage of the attached sensor or is the difference between 3.3V to 5V small enough that it can be ignored?
I want the lights in my garage/shop to come on when I enter and STAY on while I'm working, that will be my first project. They're already on a smart switch, and will turn off after 20 minutes if I forget, but it would be better if they turned-on/off automatically. Thanks for the info, can't wait for the parts to come in!
Enjoy!
Is it possible the adjust the sensitivity and distance ?
pir motion sensor only need relay module for auto light on off no need esp series. can this sensor modify like that
I was wondering if it was possible to create the sensor using esp01 instead of esp32. so as to make it more complicated? Thank you
Do you have any guidance on the "i2c" section of your code? I'm trying to use a Wemos D1 Mini and it won't compile with your i2c block (even if I adjust the pins to ones that exist in my board). But without it, I can see the device and "visit" its web interface, but it doesn't detect anything (all values are "NA".) It's also possible (likely?) that it's some other setting, the "i2c" just stands out.
Hi Kiryl! I tried to use YAML that was mentioned in your article but failed now matter how many times I tried. ESPHome advised to use Numbers in the code, in the ESPHome documentation they show the sample. Could you please advise how to combine the whole code with Numbers. Thank you!
Can you please try again now I updated the code try with the new one
Very helpful. I also appreciate you posting yaml. I have sometimes tried to copy it from a video, difficult.
You are so welcome! Check my other videos as well
Could the ESP32 not only connect the LD2410 (wired) but also be a bluetooth proxy for other LD2410 around the house?
Also I think you should make a video on how to best power these devices... it's simple enough to use a USB cable but maybe there's a great/cheap way to have these setup around the house without using up 1 socket with an unsightly cable...
I bought some of the Bluetooth ones a while back and tried them with the HA's Bluetooth interface but couldn't get them going. Realised a bit later that the metal case of the pi was probably blocking it. When I put the module closer to the pi it worked fine, but not much good if all the sensors have to be within a short distance from the pi. Going to give this a try with the remaining modules to see if I can spread them around the house a bit.
use bluetooth proxy. An esp32 can be one.
Hi Kiryl, it seems to be not valid after upgrade. Mamy errors:
"xxx" option has been moved to the 'xxx' number component
:(
Me too multiple errors , you obtive sucesso ?
You can get the new ESPHome code from the same link in the video description or in the article. Can you please try again now and let me know what is the result?
@@KPeyanski yes, I found out that. I've made a yaml according to new specification and compiling os OK now. To be honest my problem is different: my sensors (LD2410 & LD2410B) do not want to work with Wemos D1 mini (tested on v.3.0 & v.4.0) - all entities are unknown. That was under old yaml and the same is now. I can see on HA forum that many people has got a problem with it but nobody has found out the solution that can work :(
Try again I updated the code :)
Can we change out the ESP board with a Zigbee connected one, rather than a Wifi one?
I am also searching for this answer. Just trying to get every wifi smarthome device of my wifi network. I have only 2 curtain motors left which work on wifi, so i don't want any more. And it would be nice that it also can act as a zigbee router
No, sorry! Only Wi-Fi & Bluetooth for this sensor ATM
Beautiful. Magnificent. Прекрасно.
I`ve struggled a bit, but found this,edited the code a little bit. And there is no more suffering. Благодарско и напред.
Thank you, благодаря ти!. What was missing in the code? Виж и другите ми видеа!
is there a solution or a sensor to check if someone is on the office chair?
What im wondering more about, it how you use these sensors in your automations, as the has target turns off and on from time to time, so if you set it as a trigger, it keeps running the automation over and over again
Use the "presence" output. That can see you even if you are perfectly still. I think the "still target" is the same.
Thanks @jackiepaper101 for answering @grindfi :)
Good Day, I am using an esp8266 nodemcu, i keep getting an error? Your Yaml file is for a d1 mini. What would I modify?
Do you like the soldering iron? I'm almost buying a weller, but I'm looking for a more inexpensive alternative that works the same. It has to work good as a weller does
Hi
I’ve tried several boards but no luck - d1 mini with esp 8266, node mcu with esp 8266, not possible to got through the steps. Then took esp32 node mcu still don’t get the ui as you show in your video also not the data. Something is not correct on my side - can you pls help? ESP 8266 yml would be great as esp32 is overkill I think. Thx and b.rgds
And ld2420 , how conect in ESPHOME ?
Hello sir help me to connect ld2420 sensor with Arduino nano
It works when connected to HA server but when I unplug from the HA server and put in a new location with power, it doesn't work. What is your idea?? I connected the LD2410 to ESP32 Wrover Dev.
Hello thanks for the knowledge sharing... please I got the LD2420, do you have experience with it or will yaml code for LD2410 also work for it... thanks
Me too i need yaml for ld2420 , I try with code for 2010 not working
@@IronicoIII found an esphome PR 4847... hopefully it gets merged...you can check it out
@@hypoclone link ??
@@IronicoII I can't post a link, just google esphome pr 4847
Hi Kiril, I just ordered some of these sensors. I will use it for the lamps. Thank you for the video!
Glad I could help. Enjoy!
I try to use the sensor with a d1 mini with esp 8266 but it doesn't work, it doesn't return any value, could someone help me with that?
I will do a module for shelly 2.5 device and hide the motion sensor behind the light switch itself :) Will be fun! :)
That would be cool! Don’t forget to share the result afterwards
Some advice: mmwave radar doesnt pass through every material, its dependent on the relative permitivity of the material, but to keep it simple, theres a chapter about placement and a simple formula in the datasheet of the ld2410 (which can easily be found online)
That would be a cool video. Let us know if you make it
@@l0gic23 Unfortunately, it did not work :( The LD2410 requires 5V supply, the Shelly only outputs 3.3V. This makes the detection very unreliable, rebooting the LD2410 frequently and misreporting presence a lot. Too bad :(
I like this but can bluetooth tracking be included in the same hardware?
yes, search for LD2410 in my videos and you will find the tutorial
@@KPeyanski Sorry, I mean can BLE tracking on the D1Mini be enabled while combined with LD2410 wired for presence detection? I currently have the LD2410 wired directly to the d1mini for power and ground but I wanted to try wiring it like on the video so that it doesnt rely on blutooth connection. Also since it is not connected via blutooth, I was hopping to use BLE tracking on the same hardware.
Thanks for this video. I would like to do the same but with zigbee. Do you work with this protocol ?
You are welcome. Only Wi-Fi & Bluetooth connectivity for this sensor is possible ATM
Hello
Can I use a ESP32 board to be a Bluetooth proxy and also connect to ld2410c?
I need a Bluetooth proxy and a ld2410c sensor which can be connected through Wi-Fi , so I was wondering can I make it happen with one ESP32 board?
I guess you have to try and see :)
Will it work with D1 mini esp8266 or i need esp32 version?
oh yes, esp8266 is fine!
@@KPeyanski thanx for the reply. Ordered few with esp32 but also got some esp8266 lying around.
Thanks. I may order this board and try this out. 👍🏻
Have fun and share the result, Ron :)
And the most important thing that everyone omits to say is that regardless of the settings, it shows the false presence if you open the window in the room to let the air out, if the curtain moves due to air currents, if an engine is turned on, if the fan is on kind of indicates the false presence in the room... so it's not quite as perfect as everyone presents it...
Honestly, I don’t know of anything better for such a small price. Also you can always add an additional PIR sensor to filter the false alarms
It's cheap for nothing if it doesn't work properly and it shows false presence and when you're in the room with it and you stay still for a long time the sensor shows that no one is present, I've tested several sensors and they all do the same, it's right for the world to know what problems will they face after buying them... and working this way, even the automations don't work as you set them...@@KPeyanski
@@dantoma9160 Honestly i can stay at my desk for long periods of time and the sensor does not clear even once. But within 30 sec. of leaving the room it clears. As far as detecting motion that's what its made for. You can limit the range to stop false detections of objects moving outside windows and such and even detecting like ceiling fans. I have 2 of the ld2410C's in my bedroom, both limited to half the room each to stop it from detecting my ceiling fan, works great.
@@dantoma9160not having any of the issues you are mentioning. I've been running it for several months now in my office. I had absolutely ZERO issues... It has been rock solid and even detects me if I don’t move at all (my breathing is enough).
You are kind of putting light under the table and complaining that they dont light the room and are pointless for making room lighter@@dantoma9160. Think about the conditions and use things accordingly. You can place the sensor to where it will not pick up environmental changes like that. From window wall facing to the other way so no wind or curtain movements would be in it's field of view, quite easy fix.
can this be power by battery? it would be very handy
Yes, of course you can power it with a battery
@@eXe09 do you know how long the battery will last? also do you know which battery I need? maybe you know a DIY goide for this. thank you
I have brought one but have mislaid it atm still looking for it
What do you mean by mislaid?
@@KPeyanski cannot find it lost it
Thanks Kiril. Very nice video!
Glad you liked it! Are you going to try it?
@@KPeyanski I did and it works fine! I'm printing in a 3D box to embed the sensor in the ceiling
Hi Kiryu, the issue with LD2410 (B/C version) over Bluetooth was that it sends a ton of data over that interface and BT link drops. There was no way to limit amount of data that is been sent. Moving to tx/rx interface and using wifi to connect to HA, this issue might be closed. Can you share your experience on how much data is been sent to HA with config that you described? Is this adustable via ESPHome config - like having 5 second for timeout?
Hi Alex, I didn’t manage to measure how much data has been sent but overall this combo seems to be good
You can remove the entire section under Sensor that says this
Sensor:
- platform: ld2410
moving_distance:
name: Moving Distance
still_distance:
name: Still Distance
moving_energy:
name: Move Energy
detection_distance:
name: Detection Distance
and it will still work for detecting what's under the binary_sensor section. This will greatly reduce the amount of data transmitted over wifi as it will stop reporting that info while still providing presence detection, moving target detection and still target detection as normal.
Hi is this sensor able to detect still person even when the person is asleep?
yes
i hv installed 15 sensors in a building with roof ceiling .. it works but if u start watching movie or stay perfect still for few seconds it start losing still energy and after short time it ill show no presence until u start moving again... specially i am facing terrible experience in washroom .... (tried all combinations with esphome, using direct out pin with andriod app, all settings, different voltages 5-12v)
what i found this sensor will only work in home environment and your chest should be infront of sensor otherwises ill not work properly and in office where you hv to install it on roof side and you have many people in room it will work as PIR motion sensor not presence sensor.... cus if your chest is not infront of this sensor it will stop detecting you after some time
Thank you for sharing your experience with these sensors. It's valuable to hear about the challenges you've faced, especially in areas like the washroom. It sounds like you've put a lot of effort into trying different configurations and settings.
Your insights will undoubtedly be helpful for others considering similar installations. It's great that you've taken the time to experiment and share your findings. If you ever come across any breakthroughs or have further thoughts, feel free to reach out. Thank you again for your contribution!
Hi I was a big fan of your ikea air quality sensor hack and following that video i made two of them which are still in use today. But I feel this videos seems to be rushed like a goal set to finsh the video within 5 minutes or so. This vidoe would have had a great potential for slow pacers like me if the length of the video was bit long and the details bit more in depth. Please consider it next time when you make the videos
Hi there! Thank you so much for your kind words and for giving the IKEA air quality sensor hack a try! 😊 I appreciate your feedback about the video's pace. I'll definitely take your suggestion to heart and aim for a more in-depth approach in future videos. It's fantastic to hear that you've successfully implemented two sensors - kudos to you for being a speedy DIY enthusiast! Keep an eye out for more content, and I'll strive to strike the right balance in video length and detail.
@@KPeyanski much appreciated
I tried this, but I keep having issues with Bluetooth drops. I used ESP32s for a while, but it was super inconsistent. I tried the Shelly plugs with Bluetooth and it got better, but still kept getting constant Bluetooth drops and disconnects from the LD2410C. Any thoughts?
Using ESP 32 as shown in the video works perfectly for me. You can try limiting the max still and moving distance's that might help also you might adjust the gates 0-8 values. It takes partice and patience, but then anything you build yourself does. Nice thing about DIYing your own sensors when something fails you can usually fix it yourself. 😀
@@HATipsByLarry thanks. My issue is not the distance, but rather two things: 1) Setting it up. HA keeps giving me an Unexpected Error. 2) When I finally get it to work, the device keeps losing connectivity and becomes UNAVAILABLE despite me having bluetooth proxies and it being very close to my HA machine
Hi. Great video. Really enjoying your explanations. Are there any comparisons of the features that are different vs an FP2? I’m fine with the diy difference (and cost). How about the ability to define zones with a single sensor? Thanks!
Hi, thanks for the kind words. There are no zones as in the FP2
@@KPeyanski ok, thanks!
So LD2410 or LD2420 ?
2410
excelent tutorial! Thank you!!!
I made one of these sensors for my bathroom cuz it can tell if I'm in the shower as the mm-waves go through the glass door. Now the light doesn't go off when I'm in the shower!
That's a clever idea to use mm-waves sensor in your bathroom! 😄 What case did you use to mount the sensor?
@@KPeyanski Just a cheap ABS project box. I put magnets on the back and stuck it to metal light box.
@@jackiepaper101 I did same was able to fit the LD2410C and the BH1750 light sensor in a very small project box. I had to de-solder the LD2410C pin header because using DuPont cable connecters on the pin header made it to big to fit the project box i wanted to put it in. Can't seem to find any place selling the LD2410C sensor without the pin header already soldered on.
@@HATipsByLarry Yes, I had to solder the wires on directly too.
thank you
You're welcome
Anyone dealing with pets triggering these sensors? I have 4 cats… and want to know if is there a way to prevent them to trigger…
They are super sensitive but you can set a max distance beyond which they won't pick up on any movement. So if cats are on the ground and sensor is up high & set to the right distance, it should, in theory, not pick them up? Might take some fine tuning.
@jackiepaper101 you are the man!!! Thanks :)
If you use them outside, they don't work if it's raining. They just continuously report a presence. They also report a presence if a person is behind the sensor.
Thanks for that info. Did you try to decrease the sensitivity from the software? Also, The field of view is very wide. Probably that is the reason.
@@KPeyanski Yep minimum sensitivity setting at 2meters, picks up the neighbors cat too. Very disappointed and means they have very limited use. How do you "Block" the field of view, with a PIR sensor you can block of parts of it's field of view with electrical tape or a bit of plastic etc.
And so what do you do with these câbles and boards ? Just let it on the floor ? Hang it over your bed ?? 😅
you can also put them in a plastic bag, if nothing better comes to mind :)
Мерси!
моля :)
I just bought the items linked in the description and for the first time I'm not able to flash the D1 mini although I have quite a few of them already, but that's my first mini. I get an error: "Failed to execute 'open' on 'SerialPort': Failed to open serial port."
No other ESPs have this problem. @KPeyanski, would you be able to help?
It happens to me once or twice, but I manage to sort it out by connecting (shortening) the pins and start flashing:
D3 Gnd
D4 3v3
If the aboce doesn't help, then contact the seller and ask for refund/replace
I have tried to follow this tutorial, using a ESP8266 but unfortunatelly without luck.
First problem seems to be the yaml code (ESPHome-YAML-ld2410-esp32.yaml), as it seems to be only for ESP32. Using this code it will return Failed to connect, No serial data received.
Disconnecting the LD2410C returns wrong chip argument (somehow logic). So I added a new device based on device type esp8266 and added only lines 31-226 from ESPHome-YAML-ld2410-esp32.yaml to the yaml of the esp8266. This returns invalid pin number: 21 (SDA) and 22 (SCL). Looking to the pinout for esp8266 SDA should be 4 and SCL 5. The installation seems to be complete " INFO Successfully uploaded program" but seems to be stuck with latest entry "Performing I2C bus recovery". Is there something else that needs to be changed in the yaml code, in order to work with the ESP8266?
Did you ever get this working I also have LD2410C and an ESP8266, Although i managed to get something installed, all entities are Unknown, and the Blue Light on off if in reverse.
Hi. I get this error when I try to install with your supplied yaml.
INFO ESPHome 2023.8.2
INFO Reading configuration /config/esphome/ld2410-esp32.yaml...
ERROR Error while reading config: Invalid YAML syntax:
Duplicate key "api"
in "/config/esphome/ld2410-esp32.yaml", line 36, column 1:
api:
^
NOTE: Previous declaration here:
in "/config/esphome/ld2410-esp32.yaml", line 14, column 1:
api:
^
same error here. How to fix it?
Try again now. I updated the code :)
@@KPeyanski it works perfectly, thanks
do u have discord