I added a Instruction PDF file for the Drok to my Facebook group (On The Bench) m.facebook.com/groups/352614655247940?view=permalink&id=551405485368855 Several people have had interest and I did not know some did not get the sheet with the Drok. Hope it helps!
Thank you for another great video. I purchased a DC Buck Converter Board Digital Power Supply Module DC10V~75V to 0~60V 12A 720W and a 500W +/-35V amplifier dual-voltage PSU audio amp switching power supply board to drive it. It worked great to fix an EGO 4 amp battery pack that would not take a charge.
For anyone that comes across this later, used golfcart battery chargers have a very nice transformer in them and the 48v charger puts out 64v at 20-25amps.
Very good! I had already made up my mind to buy 1 @ dedicated buck and a 1@ dedicated boost, thinking it would be easier to find quality builds. Seems this is actually the better idea...on all fronts. Thanks.
This is only a buck regulator. It will handle CC very well. But it is a buck. I have tried combo buck/boost converters but I personally have not had the same CC control from the combos I have tested.
Oooops ..Thanks again...I reckon I was up too late. At some point my brain matter had a glitch, thinkjing you were boosting from 12VDC rather than stepping down from 56VDC
Seems I may have edited out some details as well. I always try to cut the video down as short as possible without losing important information, sometimes I cut out some information that I am sure I said at one point! I may have axed it! Lol...
Can you do a constant charge video for 56V Ego and the possibility of bypassed bms to get a balanced charge? Appreciate your expertise in this field. You’re one of the best online!!
I was wondering the same thing. What about low voltage protection and thermal protection etc? My understanding is that they are in the tool and that circuitry interfaces with the BMS.
Hate to hear you have had issues with it. I have enjoyed mine and it works great for the money. I hope it was a rare issue! Thanks for sharing your experience!
use a thermistor before the input to prevent arcing of the contacts, even with a relay you won't prevent the contacts from sticking together and eventually burn up if you don't have a thermistor in between, just a word of advice.
True indeed, thermistors are used in such application through out the industry. I am very familiar with that, I just did not mention using thermistor since sometimes higher current thermistors cost as much as a paid for the dang converter! I have way more relays around than thermistors. I do save every thermistor I can from boards for that same reason though. Superior for sure. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for this vid. I have the almost identical version but it works the same way. I couldn't figure out how to unlock the voltage and i almost blew some big lipo batteries. Hopefully they didn't loose too much lifetime, they charged to 4.5V (16Ah cells). I am now using the Step down to dump some of the power into a large storage battery i have. Now i actually know how the thing works. Although i have managed to bring up some more settings while playing around with the thing, but i have nt worked them out yet. One seems to be time or h and the other i'm not sure i think it said c.
I have not had issues although the fan is not utilized well as only half of it is actually blowing accross heatsink on mine. Hopefully the design on these has gone through a change on that, not sure. I have looked at output with scope when on a lower load some time ago and, if memory serves me correct, it was pretty clean. I have not looked at with heavy load best I remember!
Hi, thanks so much for your comment! Are you asking about the 56V Ego battery pack I used to power this? The input leads I made up with some lugs I'm them. The leads I chose to use were these... amzn.to/3Cch7p9
@@WindshieldTime Yes, it sets in the EGO pack very well and it could be mounted on a piece of Lexan etc. and could slide in and out as well. Another option is mounting it on a EGO battery connector similar to below. www.ebay.com/itm/56v-EGO-Battery-Adapter-DIY-Lithium-Connector-10-AWG-Wire-Power-Block-Mount-/274985152270?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
hi i was going to use this for a demonstration pedal generator but i noticed the board won't automatically output unless "ok" is pressed. any feature i am missing that will make it automatically begin to output when input voltage is applied??
I believe you can select Auto power up feature. I have added a instructions sheet on my face book page. facebook.com/groups/352614655247940/permalink/551405485368855/
6.Auto-output function when powering it. 1). Start auto-output function when power on Keeping pressing "SET" to enter parameter setting interface, press Up key to adjust to -F2-". Then press "OK" key, at this time, it will display "Yo-0". After that, switch it to "Yo-1" by pressing Up key. Lastly, please press "OK" key to store your setting. 2). End auto-output function Keeping pressing "SET" to enter parameter setting interface, press Up key to adjust to "-F2-", Then pressing "OK" key, at this time, it will display "Yo-1". After that, switch it to "Yo-0" by pressing Up key. Lastly, please press "OK' key to store your setting.
also, i want to add a USB bus to allow charging of maybe 6 phones simultaneously from a 48V battery. recommendation on a simple all-inclusive USB board? thank you!
I really would like to buy this one. Unfortunately, by the time it arrives at my doorstep I pay twice the price; shipping, duties and taxes are outrageous.
Sorry to hear that! it really is handy and the price of these has seemed to have gone up over the last couple of years since I came across it and posted this video!
It may have a serious design flaw and could blow up your circuit - see rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/11/is-d3806-boostbuck-dc-dc-power-supply.html. If your unit does not produce large pulses on switch on/off, please let me know it's Part Number.
Yes, press the set key until it is showing current, I believe you press the ok key until it shows "uLoC" when you release it should be unlocked. I shared the instructions on my Facebook group "On the Bench" because people asked for information alot. Apparently, these stopped coming with instruction sets? I scanned mine and shared it. Hope it helps!
I'm wondering about a specific scenario. If you had 58v in, stepping down to 52v out, and then the input voltage dropped below the 52v, say to the range of 49-51, I'm assuming the output would just follow what ever is on the input, below the output setpoint of 52v?
@@ThriftyToolShed I've been looking for a module that would maintain a constant output while the input automatically transitioned above or below the output setpoint. It seems hard to find. This Drok unit seems like the next best thing. Thanks for a great video, and your help!
In the comments I have the link pinned for the instruction sheet. I added it there to help people with issues. Just click on link in description. You press set until output is off and then while showing current then press OK until it shows unlock I believe.
Does this have any sort of ratio or threshold for input voltage vs. output voltage - i.e., does the input voltage always need to be somewhat above the output voltage? My use case is powering 43.8v LED strips from a battery bank that will range from 57.4v (fully charged) to 44.8v (fully discharged). I'm concerned that if I'm nearing 44.8v on the input side when the battery bank is running low, this may not want to output 43.8v since that's just bucking 1v. Thanks, and great video!
I have not actually tested that well enough to say for sure. I always try to stay at least a few volts over just as not to have any issues. It may do fine with a small load though? Thanks for your comment.
I have rigged this unit up so I can use my ego 56 V batteries on the Ryobi be 40 V equipment. Mainly it will be extra battery power for my Ryobi power station that I use for back up power for my refrigerator.
Thanks for the informative video. Got a question: I bought the same Drok buck converter which is not working now. The display and the setting function all work normally, but it fails to sent the set voltage and current to the output. I found the output voltage is identical to the input voltage no matter what. Actually, there is continuity between the input +pole to the output +pole. If you still read comments, could you please tell me what do you think might the problem?
@@ThriftyToolShed I really appreciate your responding to me so quickly. Yes, I just checked both -poles and +poles of the input and output are continuous now. If it is because of blown mosfets, can I easily find replacements? Where? I almost never used it, those mosfets seem to be of poor quality.
@@josephdewuhan I have not had to replace these on mine, but I have replaced many Mosfets on boards in the past. I have used the heck out of mine and not had any issues. Sorry to hear yours has not lasted long. I would simply look at the part number on the Mosfets and find them online if you find them shorted. eBay is cheap but not always the best quality. DigiKey, Newark or Mouser is great, but shipping cost is high on a single item or 2. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks again for your response. You are surely a more knowledgeable and careful user. These boards do have some issues. For example, one cannot ground the - terminals of input and output together. Once one does that, the - terminals will become shorted. As to replacing mosfet, I do not even know which one to replace where it is located on the board?
Oh, I see. Yeah so as far as I know all DC-DC converters are that way. You can't connect with a common negative connection. It will short out the Mosfet for sure. Very typical to see N-channel Mosfets switched for the current control. Mosfets will have high current so you can find them attached to the heatsink. So look in between the board and the heatsink.
I have a quick question, can I use this to take a 52v battery on the input and hook the output to my grid-tied inverter and step down the current to 3 or 4 amps so that I only have 200-400 watts so that I don't drain my batteries so fast...
Without all the details I can't say for sure it will work. Seems like it could work fine but it will introduce some extra loss in the system by stepping the voltage down some heat loss is inevitable. Another thought is if you current limit the inverter it may drop out and/or alarm on undervoltage. Best of luck!
Hello, I am watching the expert again. This time for DC to DC conversion and not Ryobi batteries. Haha. I am a Ham Radio operator and I am hearing that DC to DC buck converters have RF hash or RFI or undesirable noise is generated by many devices. Would you have any idea if the RFI is bad on these DROK units? The link you had for this one in the video is no longer available so I looked for other DROK. So my question really is do they produce RFI or RF noise? Thanks! All the best!
As a switching supply they would have some RF for sure. As cheap as they are though, I would experiment with some filtering if needed and see if it's good enough for your application. If you enjoy tinkering it might be fun. Thanks for letting me know about the link, I will search a new one if it's still available, it was hard to find this same one the last time I updated the link. Thanks for your comment!
Thanks for the video. In order to increase power output, can I buy two of this converter, parallel them and use one of the display controller board to control both motherboard?
I use a 500W light bulb to load test my 48V E-Bike battery pack. Looking for a 10 - 60V 20A BUCK BOOST converter for use with a Wind Turbine. All seem to be limited to only 30V @ 5-6A.
It sure is harder to find buck and boost combo units in lots of ranges. Typically you can find a boost or buck separately with wider ranges, but I have not had the best luck with current or CC control with some boost regulators I have tried!
Not any way that I know of. I shared the instructions on my Facebook page if needed since most of these don't come with. I do not see a way to cut off display. I know you can auto enable output on power on though, not sure if it will do it with display removed?
I would like to hook-up a treadmill DC motor being spun by a bicycle. I expect the motor output to the Drok input to vary while pedaling on the order of 20 to 50VDC. Does this handle a dynamic input voltage well? I would have the output voltage simulate a solar panel (~19VDC) and have a solar controller then manage charging a battery and provide 12VDC power for other uses. Thoughts? I'm looking to also use this in high school science classes.
You may decide to go with a more manual adjust type. These are setup and output selected at power up so if powered on and off it would not be a good application for the digital but still there are other really good buck regulators out there that have the manual adjust potentiometer for the current and voltage output.
This is a video on a lower current rated manual adjust type. ruclips.net/video/O3QfgTWSp3E/видео.html BTW "Jeremy Fielding" has a video where he did something very similar for his kids to pedal while it powers there video game system! ruclips.net/video/qhejwuDLr24/видео.html
This is a Buck converter. It will only Buck or regulate down from the input supply. You will need a Boost converter to Boost the voltage up from your input. Be aware that some with the name of Buck-Boost converter still most of them are still just Buck converters, I see that on eBay all the time. Make sure the description gives you the desired function you need. I almost always use this converter because I have the 56V packs I can supply it with and 95% of the time I need to reduce it. It also regulates the current very well compared to some others I have tested.
I have an updated model to the one you have but I noticed that mine has one thing in common with yours - the set amps does not equal actual amp output. On your video (starting around 9:15) you have the amps set to 1.00A but when you are operating the device it shows a much lower figure (0.25A or close to that). Do you know how to get this to actually output the set amps? I am using this to charge a capacitor but it TAKES FOREVER because this actual amp value not only is much less than my set value but it GOES DOWN as the voltage in the capacitor increases! If you have any input on this I would be very appreciative. Thanks.
Well what I was showing there is that it is switching from CC to CV. It was not reading incorrectly. I had the V set for 24V and the current limit to 1A. At 24V the load was only about .25A. so it stayed in CV control. If I take the voltage up the CC kicks in and limits the current to what I have the Current limit set at. So if you want higher current then you have to take up your voltage. You can't make current go higher than the actual load is, just limit it to not go above setpoint limit. Hopefully that makes sense.
I'm only using my own observations on what CC "does" as it applies to a buck (step-down) converter that I had used to charge up the capacitor. It DOES provide a true constant current (about 2A) throughout the entire charge process -- and I don't have to reset the voltage to get it to do that. Also, I don't want to risk overcharging the capacitor (ultracap) since these are highly sensitive to overcharging. I want this to be essentially automated -- I want the boost converter to on its own charge up the capacitor at a constant amp rate until it reaches the final voltage that I have set (typically about 14.5V for a 6x340F series setup). Anyway, I have a manual set type boost converter arriving shortly and I'll see what transpires from that. I'm sure my knowledge of how these things work will notch up a bit after that. Thanks again for your response.
Not a laptop, but some other electronics for sure and I have had no issues with mine. The display makes these very flexible to use with many applications but may be a little bit more of a pain than the type that just set the potientometer for voltage and current and forget setting it up every time, just a thought! I used the small Yeeco 5A buck converter (like I did in a more recent video) for some similar applications.
You need a potentiometer set type for that. You can still find some with the CC and CV pots on them. This one is digital and has to be set and output enabled every power up.
Well the potentiometer set type may be better for this application but you can change a setting to enable on power up and I believe it defaults to the saved setting in programmed parameter 0? I am trying to remember, it ts been a while. I did upload a copy of the instructions for the drok on my Facebook page because so many people were asking about it, like it quit coming with the Drok?
Ok thank you i have read it and found it. One more question what is the maximum wattage of the solar pannel this device can handle? Is it 750 watt? I have a 400 watt solar pannel
Although I have not push the limits on this, it is rated for up to 750W. I would not be surprised if a fan upgrade may be needed for that wattage though?
Thrifty Tool Shed Thanks very much! Would this work? Seems similar but says it’s boost in the description. Drok Numerical Control Regulator DC 8V-60V to 10V-120V 15A Boost Converter, Consta... www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_SBFqEbV277ZRS
@@ThriftyToolShed I contacted DROK who told me that in order to prevent reverse current to add a diode to the output. Not being that eletrically minded, i'd love some more clarification because the last thing i want is something going catastrophically wrong with it and/or the batteries it connects to.
I have yet to find a way to adjust the current cut off when charging CC/CV. So far mine has gone all the way to zero current before saying its done charging my battery. Other than that this is a very nice charger to get a batch of 60ah cells to a proper charge.
This isn't a charger, it is a DC -> DC CC/CV Buck Converter. It is not programmable outside of storage of preset output states you can set it too. You might be able to use the UART port to interface with another device that would act as the sensor and logic processing that could communicate with this to change the output as it monitors the state of the battery if you really wanted to, maybe. This device will alone just maintain the settings you set as output until you change them manually.
What about that grey transparent film, how easy is it to get hold of such kind of film? (it might work just as well for digital number meter reading that has orange color)
I just had that for the camera. It is not something I kept or need to use it with my eyes by any means. It was just some left over diffusers sheet from a old monitor or something...
Tried pushing the input voltage 80-90 volts to 13 volts 4amps output? I noted the input caps are 100volt. Already connected the unit to 84 volts without load and so far so good.
She blew yesterday. I took my battery out and forgot about the inrush current when I reconnected the pack although was only 83volts. Had previous few days charged the pack to 86v. Least I know the 100amp AC breaker works fine. I have a spare just connected it now.
@@e-bikerbulgaria I just ordered this to use for an old skool pedal bicycle - to charge up a lithium generator/battery unit. So not sure I'll go as high as 90 volts - probably though! And hope to get 6 amp output.
Voidisyinyang Voidisyinyang The second unit is working fine. Time will tell. The video displays all the components so very handy I may try and replace the blown components.
@@e-bikerbulgaria good to hear. I should get mine tomorrow. I realized that to set my voltage/amp levels I need to power the DC-DC buck converter first. I have a smaller unit that has screw adjustments - but it's limited to 35 volts. So I just pedal the bicycle up to that voltage level. So I guess I have to hook up a 9 volt battery first so I can first set my amp/voltage levels? Then I can hook it up to the DC motor powered by the bicycle. haha. Right now I'm working on increasing the voltage on my bicycle generator. I'm only at 50 volts in highest gear - before I had 40 volts in lowest gear. But I had the motor polarity reversed and so I didn't get any back current torque load as increased resistance. So I think that is the difference.
hi sorry for my poor understanding of things here. I actually need a 19.5v 16AMP 330w power supply for my laptop running over car battery on 12v. I am not sure which step up supply i need are the constent current regulated supplies work like even if the voltage of battery drop from 12v to let say 10.5v they will regulate the output to 19.5v?. I guess the tiny stepups will reduce the output voltage with the decrease of input voltage. i am right here please. Also another question i think i can use multiple let say 4x modules to increase the current watts and still keep the voltage to 19.5v. Your quick reply will help me a lot. Thank You
Hi, As far as 4 smaller boost regulators is parallel, it can be done but it is very hard to get them to load share equally and without proper circuit they could produce unstable or even destructive results if not used properly (to make sure feedback doesn't get crazy) I personally just size the one module to my needs. I have not had enough dealings with high wattage boost supplies to give you a straight answer. I have used 3 high wattage boost supplies and I have had issues getting the correct (CC) to work as well as the buck converters do. So I do commonly used my known good buck converters with higher voltage input! I know it's not a good answer. On the bright side I have had fairly good luck with the voltage regulating with the boost modules!
There is something that is not clear to me... why does your laptop require so much current? 16A is ridiculously high, isn't it? My biggest, oldest laptop's adapter is only 4.75A! Does your laptop use vacuum tubes, or what?! ;-) You need to 'boost' the 12V up to 19.5V... But that current requirement means that your converter must draw more than 26 Amps from that 12 volt source in order to even come close to giving you 16A at 19.5V on the output! (Voltage and Current are inversely proportional here.) As your battery voltage drops, the converter will continue to give 19.5V 16A, but it will do that by drawing even more current from the battery to compensate for the loss in voltage. And because these converters are not meant to run at full capacity for a long time, you would have to buy a converter that is even more powerful than what you need... I hope you are rich! Like I said, ridiculously high currents for a laptop... So, unless you are running 4 laptops, it doesn't make sense to me why you need all those Amps!
Hello Sir, I wonder if you can help me, please. I have an RV, with lithium batterys, can I have this DROK puting charge from the alternator to charge the lithium batterys? Thank you.
HI, I have not tried that to say it will work for sure. I know that a voltage limiting and current limiting supply is needed for the lithium battery. I would think it would do fine with the setting for power on with output on automatically. Best of luck to ya!
Yes, I use it for any variable supply needed below around 60V or so. It's very handy and portable and yes the whole reason people were asking about it is it was seen on some of my EGO pack repair videos. That is the way I charge them.
@@ThriftyToolShed Was wondering as I have some packs to charge, but I do not have a charger for them. Thought if I kept the voltage and current at the specs on the pack I should be able to charge it. The couple supplies I have are specific on voltage and current and are not adjustable like some chargers I have seen.
Although it maybe possible, you would have to keep the input caps charged up enough to not let the output dropout. It would depend on how much load you have vs. how much current you can supply. You of course will always have to put more power in than you get out, it has some losses. It is somewhere around 85% efficient depending on load.
Thrifty Tool Shed ok thanks for the info. But to be clear, this device could be able to covert fluctuating voltage into a constant voltage with fluctuating current? If the voltage fluctuation is not to big.
AMAZING CREATIVITY WORK , with limited information the answer is: maybe? Can the Drok supply a CV 24v to a motor? Yes. But not all motors! Some motors are not as straight forward as 24v to arm and run. Some brushless for example would need a controller or drive. Also for a special application such as bike, keep in mind the digital selection everytime you use it may be a hassle. One with potentiometer setup maybe a better option in some applications. Hope it helps and good luck with your project!
I have a .pdf on the Facebook page called "On the bench" just for sharing links and information.... facebook.com/groups/352614655247940/permalink/551405485368855/?mibextid=Nif5oz
Necesito ayuda (help) mi regulador dejo de funcionar y aparentemente es el mosfet que recivio corriente en direccion contraria (reverse power). Como puedo saber si es que se daño el mosfet. Gracias por tu video, es mu educador.
Yeah, mine is in locked mode. That’s the way I got it. so it keeps reverting to the input voltage so I need to know a way to unlock this thing and make it stay unlocked but boot to the proper voltage that I said it
I think I did share how to unlock it in this video. It's been a while. I also scanned and added the manual for it in a link to my Facebook page On the Bench if it helps.
The cooling fan does not make much of a difference. The fan should be at the end of an 'air tunnel' around the heat sink, that would evacuate the hot air more efficiently.
Have 750w 10A drok coming. Will that work for my Ego 56v battery? The charger is not picking up a charge and perhaps I can raise the charge enough where the ego 2100 will start charging it? I have 3 2ah and 1 5ah. They all blink with the green light on the charger. Perhaps they are too low? Thoughts 💭??
Ksax Music, be aware that one or more cells may have reached the point of no return. As you check the cells some may even be at or near zero. I will try to get a video up this week about using the drink to balance the cells. This time of year time gets really tight due to me being in industrial maintenance/repair.
Well not exactly. By default on every power up you will have to adjust to setpoint desired and enable output. Now you can do a few neat things in the setup. You have up to 10 selectable parameter locations that you can store your setpoint and they will be stored even when powered off. Then you can enable a parameter that allows the converter auto start up and that will default to the storage setpoint 0. Your first setpoint. I did scan in the setup guide for this converter due to all the questions over the last 3 years or so. It is pinned it the video description.
Jeff Hiley, Thay is a great question. In the specs they claim Typical Efficiency: 94% (input 54V, output 30V, current 5A) I really would be surprised at that high of efficiency, I will have to try it out at the values you ask about to know for sure.
I am debating whether to step down a 48V 14S4P Li-ion battery to use with a Dometic CFX50 powered cooler or build another 7S battery(it also runs on 24VDC) to use. I am interested to know what numbers you get, the load of the fridge is very light.
You should be able to. I added a instruction sheet on my Facebook page since they apparently no longer come with one. Hopefully it will help you? It should be as easy as adjusting the output. Remember it is CV and CC so it is controlling voltage as well. So if you could possible have a 2amp load at that controlled voltage so the current will not go above the load at that voltage control set point. Another thing is to make sure your supply can handle more than the load you have. Best of luck to ya!
Hi, me again :D Any ideas where i can download the instructions for these? i was wondering what F2 and F3 do? I think i might have blown one of my units. I can't seem to get anything except for the input voltage through the output terminals. I was charging 2 leisure batteries from my solar array. Solar voltage was around 19V and i had two units connected in parallel. However i also had my two deep cycle batteries in parallel at first. the power from my solar array is between 200 and 700W depending on the sun. one seems to work fine but the other just won't switch into any other voltage other than what is coming from the panels. it still shows the current but i can't limit current neither can i limit the voltage. I've checked the unit is not locked by holding down set in the A setting. I was also wondering how you toggle between cc and cv i guess you just lower the current setting to any value lower than what the device being driven is drawing and it will switch into cc mode?
I have added a scanned copy of the Drok instructions to my Facebook group ( On The Bench) m.facebook.com/groups/352614655247940?view=permalink&id=551405485368855 I wish I could post it here, but RUclips still won't allow files! I tried to give a brief overview of operation in my video, but if I had known some people do not get the instructions with there's I would have spent more time on it! Hope it helps!
It may have a serious design flaw and could blow up your circuit - see rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/11/is-d3806-boostbuck-dc-dc-power-supply.html. If your unit does not produce large pulses on switch on/off, please let me know it's Part Number.
PLEASE HELP! Is there a reason I am not able to boost anymore voltage than around (OUTPUT) 44V 0.01A thats running off an old computer wall charging cable with (INPUT) 12V 1A power supply that I have plugged into my wall? I dont understand because everytime I close the circuit the voltage either jumps down to around 15V, from 30V and doesn’t go back up, it just stays down and is jumping right around 15V. And when I increase voltage 44V+ it basically shuts down when I close the circuit and shows a single number on LED screen which can be a random number, although I thinks its been (0) the most, if that means anything? I’m electric Anodizing Incase that helps. I’m not shorting the circuit out either. So I’m wondering if you think the INPUT just needs current for the OUTPUT to work at higher voltages (I’m trying to find one that gets up to 120V with no problem)? Eeven though I dont need or want current from my OUTPUT except maybe a few mA’s. I just need something that can boost up to around 120V using this type of wall jack power supply. I didn’t get this exact model either. I got the 900W version but it should function the same way. Please let me know if you have any input on this matter. Iv been searching everywhere and don’t know if It’s defective and I should return it or if I’m doing something wrong. Another thing I noticed is that no matter how many times I try to change the Current setting, while it turned on, it keeps going back to 0.01A. It used to let me change this setting by selecting “SET” then when I’m done press “Ok” to initiate output. All of a sudden started doing weird things. Is my power supply okay to use like that or am I supposed to use something else? Iv even trued using a 9V battery, which does work but causes the same issues. Please and Thanks
Hunter Keating, I have not tried this unit with that low of wattage input. This is a high output device with loses. I did a video at higher wattages showing loses through the converter. But with only a 12watt input you could lose alot of that wattage just converting the voltage especially trying to boost voltage several times higher. Just my thoughts again haven't tried it at that low of input wattage it could even be pulling down your input.
Thrifty Tool Shed Thanks for your reply and that does make since and was going to be my next move. I just thought since it’s input parameter was from 8-60V 0-15A and with output parameter 9-120V 0-15A I figured as long as I was within those input parameters it would be able to boost it up. But from your experience do you think I need to increase my input amperage (or voltage and Amperage) so that the input power is stronger which I’m guessing helps boost the output power, since mine was too low before? For instance (and just as an example), would a more efficient input, for me to want to get the most voltage out of this Booster, be a power supply that is something like 12V 10A = 120W, since I want my output to be, at max, around 110V 1A = 110W? If that’s the case then it’s not really boosting anything really right, and just allowing me to adjust the output voltage and current or is that just how these things work best? Or are you just saying that the power was just so low before that it may have needed a little more power, let’s say a 60W input, in order to get a higher output power (say 120W) since I initially had such a low power input, like you were saying, or am I thinking about this all wrong? Thanks so much for your help!
Hunter Keating , yes I would go up on input voltage and current and just realize you will have some loss so I would think a 24v 2A supply or so is what I would try. I do want to mention that I do not have the boost converter. Mine of course is a buck converter so it's just an assumption! I ordered mine to use my 56V nominal batteries to bring that portable supply with me to use for any voltage charger etc. I need from basically 0-58V or so. Hope it helps, hope it works out!
Hi, If I understand your question fully you are looking to charge a 12S lipo pack which is around 45V fully charged and if you only have a 36V input you will need a Boost converter. I showed a buck converter in this video. The boost converter will let you BOOST the voltage up from input voltage as the buck will only reduce down from your input voltage! Hope it helps and good luck!
@@tomgreysk - Either one should be fine it all depends on your supply feeding it. If you are lower input voltage than you need get a Boost converter. If you are higher in than you need get a Buck converter. You will need a supply of around 55-60V to use some buck converters to get down to around 45-48V out. I have had better luck typically with Buck converters especially with the current control. It's rare but sometimes you can find buck/boost converters that can do both!
@@ThriftyToolShed thamks it is problbly bether controling cc on step down controler . Corect ? Like controling it on step up controler. This constant curent. And cv to.
PRASHANTA Das, absolutely, but you need to consider the amp-hour of battery supplying the battery to be charged. Naturally should be much larger battery or supply to charge. The cool thing about the drok is you can CC the charge as well as Voltage control. Remember that this drok is a buck regulator not boost. So battery voltage should be able to stay well above output needed.
Thrifty Tool Shed : can you please provide a 12v to 48v battery charger circuit (converted from 12v to 48v) max 50vDC, to charge the e-rickshaw while in running condition.
Hi, It's current limited so I have had good operation of LEDs with these. Of course it has to be set correctly for LED circuit and be enough of a load to have current to regulate. I would not rely on it for any tight control under 1A or so without testing first.
interesting i'd like to know if it possible to remove the voltage/ammeter that's coming with the step up board and switch it potentiometere and volt/ammeter.... if anybody know it would you kindly explain it to me?
I do not know of a way to do that. You could extend the headers and relocate the display if desired since it is pushed into board header connections. There are Buck Converters available that do have potentiometer adjustments if that is what you are looking for.
@@ThriftyToolShed i've been looking for buck converters that has an output above 100v dc and working in a decent fashion but i couldn't find any good one with potentiometer installed. by any chance you have any suggestions? something in between 100v and 250v dc with 20 amps
I just realized you are looking for 20A at over 200V. I have not seen anything in that category. You are looking at 4000W! That will most likely require special build.
I would not use for any precision work for sure. I do enjoy the setup quick setup without getting out and connecting meters up. I do grab this Drok more than my manual pot setup boards for that reason hands down but I feel the same way about accuracy when it matters. All and all I can say for the money I just really like having it around. Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed I totally agree and I love the AC to DC and DC to DC videos, great job I must say. At worst you can test it against a Fluke and note the differences.
Thanks very informative! I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on running this drok with the power supply of a computer.I have a drok up converter running on a 12volt 380watt pc power supply. So far have only charged li ion batteries up to 36volt which it has handled without a sweat. Was not aware they had one that would both increase and decrease voltage. If you could tell me the description on the drok site so I can ensure I get the right one I would much appreciate it .
Andrew Walker, this is Amazon description, no actual part number attached. NC 12A/720W Converter DROK DROK DC-DC Buck Conveter Digital Control Voltage Regulator 10-75V to 0-60V 12A 720W Step Down Transformer with Volt Amp Capacity Time Meter Power Supply Module with Constant Voltage/Current
Andrew Walker, DROK DC-DC Buck Conveter Digital Control Voltage Regulator 10-75V to 0-60V 12A 720W Step Down Transformer with Volt Amp Capacity Time Meter Power Supply Module with Constant Voltage/Current www.amazon.com/dp/B071LGTTRN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vwItAbYVJ7KPY
Andrew Walker, as far as using for computer(laptop?) power supply I believe it could be a good choice But I have not put a scope on output to check how clean the output is, I would compare with typical laptop switch mode pack just to make sure noise/frequency are similar just to be safe. Thanks for your comment.
You can use a PC power supply to provide a dc input, you would only get 12v out of a pc supply and maybe 19v from a laptop adapter with maybe 4-6 amps. If you want to be able to set higher voltages and provide more power you will need a higher voltage input that can provide the amount of current you want to set. Seams like you could find something for far less the 30 bucks if your only will make use of 12-19v and 4-6 amps of using this buck converter.
Sir thanks for your job posting for . I am interested in your job. I wont advise me to a drock. DC to DC . I required for my hho kit power supply do it in a bike bettery power a 12vdc/2.5amp to connect a drock booster.so how much power ampier load power supply congium.plase reply to me and my project is completed
Would you be so kind as do a video on the DROK Step-Down Power Module,...transformer with USB Port? I purchased one from Amazon and it came without instruction and I can not figure it out from the site at www.Droking.com support. I can not even find it. the box says it is a J3X with a bar code # of X027GF49N. Once I have seen your video, I believe what I should have asked for is the Drok Constant Voltage, Constant Current Regulator.
Hi, I did not find a Drok with this part number, but how close is it to this yecco buck converter in this video I uploaded recently? ruclips.net/video/O3QfgTWSp3E/видео.html
* Updated: on second thought they are not clear on voltage rating? I would ask before i ordered this one? This is just one I came across, you have option of 150W or 300W. It may work, but check it out for yourself. I have not used it myself to say for sure! Hope it helps some.... eBay Link to 300W 100V Input Buck Converter ebay.us/DY5uC5
This is one that states 10-90V Input adjustable, but may not be current adjustable. Very vague! eBay Link to 10-90V Input Buck Converter ebay.us/UMqmRm Amazon Link to 10-90V Input DC-DC Buck Regulator: amzn.to/3sEXpwP
I don"t see the point of going through the components. If you use it within parameters and it blows up just make sure to have a video to show them and you will get a refund. Whats more as far as I am concerned the maximum ratings are not constant ratings. I mean 64amps through even a to220 package. Yeah for 1 second
It Is hard to find more than a 1500W DC-DC converter. So the 96V @ 50A will be tough to find. The 60v @ 15A should be fairly easy to find a Boost Converter up to 1000W.
I added a Instruction PDF file for the Drok to my Facebook group (On The Bench) m.facebook.com/groups/352614655247940?view=permalink&id=551405485368855
Several people have had interest and I did not know some did not get the sheet with the Drok.
Hope it helps!
@@ThriftyToolShed I don’t have Facebook and I don’t do Facebook. Is there somewhere you could upload the PDF to me and I could download it
@TheCommonDanger
Try this...
m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91WicQXzbNL.pdf
If that doesn't download go to this Amazon link and go to the bottom of the page and they have added a user manual download.
amzn.to/3LzuVAk
Really appreciate this video answers all questions. No more constantly setting the same voltage and current every time I power up the converter.
Thank you for another great video.
I purchased a DC Buck Converter Board Digital Power Supply Module DC10V~75V to 0~60V 12A 720W and a 500W +/-35V amplifier dual-voltage PSU audio amp switching power supply board to drive it. It worked great to fix an EGO 4 amp battery pack that would not take a charge.
Awesome, thanks for your comment!
For anyone that comes across this later, used golfcart battery chargers have a very nice transformer in them and the 48v charger puts out 64v at 20-25amps.
A great review and explanation! Many thanks
Very good! I had already made up my mind to buy 1 @ dedicated buck and a 1@ dedicated boost, thinking it would be easier to find quality builds. Seems this is actually the better idea...on all fronts. Thanks.
This is only a buck regulator. It will handle CC very well. But it is a buck. I have tried combo buck/boost converters but I personally have not had the same CC control from the combos I have tested.
Oooops ..Thanks again...I reckon I was up too late. At some point my brain matter had a glitch, thinkjing you were boosting from 12VDC rather than stepping down from 56VDC
Seems I may have edited out some details as well. I always try to cut the video down as short as possible without losing important information, sometimes I cut out some information that I am sure I said at one point! I may have axed it! Lol...
Nice use of an ego battery. I use mine to power my camping fridge with a buck converter and I charge it with solar
Can you do a constant charge video for 56V Ego and the possibility of bypassed bms to get a balanced charge? Appreciate your expertise in this field. You’re one of the best online!!
I was wondering the same thing. What about low voltage protection and thermal protection etc? My understanding is that they are in the tool and that circuitry interfaces with the BMS.
great video , you saved me from deciphering the manual .. great accent , is that from Tennessee or Texas or both :)
Georgia. Glad it helped...
Thanks for your comment.
I cannot adjust the amperage. You confirmed that I do everything right based on the settings. I have to return it. Great video thank you so much
Hate to hear you have had issues with it. I have enjoyed mine and it works great for the money. I hope it was a rare issue! Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@ThriftyToolShed I'm happy that there are guys out there like you who help out, these manuals from China are so bad to understand...
ThTs awesome. Couldn’t even hear the fan lol.
Just got mine today 🙂🌞🐒
use a thermistor before the input to prevent arcing of the contacts, even with a relay you won't prevent the contacts from sticking together and eventually burn up if you don't have a thermistor in between, just a word of advice.
True indeed, thermistors are used in such application through out the industry. I am very familiar with that, I just did not mention using thermistor since sometimes higher current thermistors cost as much as a paid for the dang converter! I have way more relays around than thermistors. I do save every thermistor I can from boards for that same reason though. Superior for sure. Thanks for your comment.
Great video review! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your comment!
An excellent and really informative video.....Thank you!
englishrupe01,Thank you for your comment!
Thanks for this vid. I have the almost identical version but it works the same way. I couldn't figure out how to unlock the voltage and i almost blew some big lipo batteries. Hopefully they didn't loose too much lifetime, they charged to 4.5V (16Ah cells).
I am now using the Step down to dump some of the power into a large storage battery i have.
Now i actually know how the thing works.
Although i have managed to bring up some more settings while playing around with the thing, but i have nt worked them out yet. One seems to be time or h and the other i'm not sure i think it said c.
izzzzzz6 , awesome. Thanks for your comment!
I like mine. It works. I really want a boost and buck converter. With CC of course. Maybe 10 Amp's or close to it
The Banggood one has a fan built onto it. Does the heat sink on the DROK have the proper heft?
Have you looked at the signal with an oscilloscope?
I have not had issues although the fan is not utilized well as only half of it is actually blowing accross heatsink on mine. Hopefully the design on these has gone through a change on that, not sure. I have looked at output with scope when on a lower load some time ago and, if memory serves me correct, it was pretty clean. I have not looked at with heavy load best I remember!
this is REAL ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING ;)
where get the green housing?
where get those leads used on the input and output?
Hi, thanks so much for your comment!
Are you asking about the 56V Ego battery pack I used to power this?
The input leads I made up with some lugs I'm them.
The leads I chose to use were these...
amzn.to/3Cch7p9
@@ThriftyToolShed i suppose i am asking about that 56V Ego battery pack. this DROK fit in there so perfectly. was that a coincidence?
@@WindshieldTime
Yes, it sets in the EGO pack very well and it could be mounted on a piece of Lexan etc. and could slide in and out as well. Another option is mounting it on a EGO battery connector similar to below.
www.ebay.com/itm/56v-EGO-Battery-Adapter-DIY-Lithium-Connector-10-AWG-Wire-Power-Block-Mount-/274985152270?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
hi i was going to use this for a demonstration pedal generator but i noticed the board won't automatically output unless "ok" is pressed. any feature i am missing that will make it automatically begin to output when input voltage is applied??
I believe you can select Auto power up feature. I have added a instructions sheet on my face book page.
facebook.com/groups/352614655247940/permalink/551405485368855/
6.Auto-output function when powering it. 1). Start auto-output function when power on Keeping pressing "SET" to enter parameter setting interface, press Up key to adjust to -F2-". Then press "OK" key, at this time, it will display "Yo-0". After that, switch it to "Yo-1" by pressing Up key. Lastly, please press "OK" key to store your setting.
2). End auto-output function Keeping pressing "SET" to enter parameter setting interface, press Up key to adjust to "-F2-", Then pressing "OK" key, at this time, it will display "Yo-1". After that, switch it to "Yo-0" by pressing Up key. Lastly, please press "OK' key to store your setting.
@@ThriftyToolShed fabulous, thank you.
also, i want to add a USB bus to allow charging of maybe 6 phones simultaneously from a 48V battery.
recommendation on a simple all-inclusive USB board?
thank you!
I really would like to buy this one. Unfortunately, by the time it arrives at my doorstep I pay twice the price; shipping, duties and taxes are outrageous.
Sorry to hear that! it really is handy and the price of these has seemed to have gone up over the last couple of years since I came across it and posted this video!
It may have a serious design flaw and could blow up your circuit - see rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/11/is-d3806-boostbuck-dc-dc-power-supply.html. If your unit does not produce large pulses on switch on/off, please let me know it's Part Number.
Have you had it where it puts it on lock mode because I do and I don't k ow how to get out of it. Can you please help me
Yes, press the set key until it is showing current, I believe you press the ok key until it shows "uLoC" when you release it should be unlocked. I shared the instructions on my Facebook group "On the Bench" because people asked for information alot. Apparently, these stopped coming with instruction sets? I scanned mine and shared it. Hope it helps!
facebook.com/groups/352614655247940/permalink/551405485368855/
@@ThriftyToolShed it worked perfectly thanks
Some of these boards use a ARM Chip, nice.
I'm wondering about a specific scenario. If you had 58v in, stepping down to 52v out, and then the input voltage dropped below the 52v, say to the range of 49-51, I'm assuming the output would just follow what ever is on the input, below the output setpoint of 52v?
Yes it would drop down!
@@ThriftyToolShed I've been looking for a module that would maintain a constant output while the input automatically transitioned above or below the output setpoint. It seems hard to find. This Drok unit seems like the next best thing. Thanks for a great video, and your help!
mine came locked, how do you unlock it ?
I cant change the volts or amps
In the comments I have the link pinned for the instruction sheet. I added it there to help people with issues. Just click on link in description. You press set until output is off and then while showing current then press OK until it shows unlock I believe.
Does this have any sort of ratio or threshold for input voltage vs. output voltage - i.e., does the input voltage always need to be somewhat above the output voltage?
My use case is powering 43.8v LED strips from a battery bank that will range from 57.4v (fully charged) to 44.8v (fully discharged). I'm concerned that if I'm nearing 44.8v on the input side when the battery bank is running low, this may not want to output 43.8v since that's just bucking 1v.
Thanks, and great video!
I have not actually tested that well enough to say for sure. I always try to stay at least a few volts over just as not to have any issues. It may do fine with a small load though?
Thanks for your comment.
I have rigged this unit up so I can use my ego 56 V batteries on the Ryobi be 40 V equipment. Mainly it will be extra battery power for my Ryobi power station that I use for back up power for my refrigerator.
Thanks for the informative video. Got a question: I bought the same Drok buck converter which is not working now. The display and the setting function all work normally, but it fails to sent the set voltage and current to the output. I found the output voltage is identical to the input voltage no matter what. Actually, there is continuity between the input +pole to the output +pole. If you still read comments, could you please tell me what do you think might the problem?
Hi,
Thanks for your kind comment. I wonder if the negative terminals also have continuity? It may be a shorted Mosfet?
@@ThriftyToolShed I really appreciate your responding to me so quickly. Yes, I just checked both -poles and +poles of the input and output are continuous now. If it is because of blown mosfets, can I easily find replacements? Where?
I almost never used it, those mosfets seem to be of poor quality.
@@josephdewuhan
I have not had to replace these on mine, but I have replaced many Mosfets on boards in the past. I have used the heck out of mine and not had any issues. Sorry to hear yours has not lasted long. I would simply look at the part number on the Mosfets and find them online if you find them shorted. eBay is cheap but not always the best quality. DigiKey, Newark or Mouser is great, but shipping cost is high on a single item or 2. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks again for your response. You are surely a more knowledgeable and careful user. These boards do have some issues. For example, one cannot ground the - terminals of input and output together. Once one does that, the - terminals will become shorted. As to replacing mosfet, I do not even know which one to replace where it is located on the board?
Oh, I see. Yeah so as far as I know all DC-DC converters are that way. You can't connect with a common negative connection. It will short out the Mosfet for sure. Very typical to see N-channel Mosfets switched for the current control. Mosfets will have high current so you can find them attached to the heatsink. So look in between the board and the heatsink.
I have a quick question, can I use this to take a 52v battery on the input and hook the output to my grid-tied inverter and step down the current to 3 or 4 amps so that I only have 200-400 watts so that I don't drain my batteries so fast...
Without all the details I can't say for sure it will work. Seems like it could work fine but it will introduce some extra loss in the system by stepping the voltage down some heat loss is inevitable. Another thought is if you current limit the inverter it may drop out and/or alarm on undervoltage. Best of luck!
do you want to compare that with our DPS power supply ?
It looks really nice. That would be a good video I believe.
Hello, I am watching the expert again. This time for DC to DC conversion and not Ryobi batteries. Haha. I am a Ham Radio operator and I am hearing that DC to DC buck converters have RF hash or RFI or undesirable noise is generated by many devices. Would you have any idea if the RFI is bad on these DROK units? The link you had for this one in the video is no longer available so I looked for other DROK. So my question really is do they produce RFI or RF noise? Thanks! All the best!
As a switching supply they would have some RF for sure. As cheap as they are though, I would experiment with some filtering if needed and see if it's good enough for your application. If you enjoy tinkering it might be fun. Thanks for letting me know about the link, I will search a new one if it's still available, it was hard to find this same one the last time I updated the link. Thanks for your comment!
i like you show
Thanks for the video. In order to increase power output, can I buy two of this converter, parallel them and use one of the display controller board to control both motherboard?
I use a 500W light bulb to load test my 48V E-Bike battery pack. Looking for a 10 - 60V 20A BUCK BOOST converter for use with a Wind Turbine. All seem to be limited to only 30V @ 5-6A.
It sure is harder to find buck and boost combo units in lots of ranges. Typically you can find a boost or buck separately with wider ranges, but I have not had the best luck with current or CC control with some boost regulators I have tried!
Hi. There is a way to switch off the display?? Or can the module works with the display withdrawn?? Thanks
Not any way that I know of. I shared the instructions on my Facebook page if needed since most of these don't come with. I do not see a way to cut off display. I know you can auto enable output on power on though, not sure if it will do it with display removed?
I would like to hook-up a treadmill DC motor being spun by a bicycle. I expect the motor output to the Drok input to vary while pedaling on the order of 20 to 50VDC. Does this handle a dynamic input voltage well? I would have the output voltage simulate a solar panel (~19VDC) and have a solar controller then manage charging a battery and provide 12VDC power for other uses. Thoughts? I'm looking to also use this in high school science classes.
You may decide to go with a more manual adjust type. These are setup and output selected at power up so if powered on and off it would not be a good application for the digital but still there are other really good buck regulators out there that have the manual adjust potentiometer for the current and voltage output.
This is a video on a lower current rated manual adjust type.
ruclips.net/video/O3QfgTWSp3E/видео.html
BTW
"Jeremy Fielding" has a video where he did something very similar for his kids to pedal while it powers there video game system!
ruclips.net/video/qhejwuDLr24/видео.html
I just bought a new one and I have a 24 volts Power supply, Can I get 48volts output from this? Please Answer ASAP
no this can only set a voltage that is lower then the input dc source voltage. you need a boost converter or buck/boost.
You can if you have a higher power supply input voltage to be clear. I think it works up to 72 volts.
This is a Buck converter. It will only Buck or regulate down from the input supply. You will need a Boost converter to Boost the voltage up from your input. Be aware that some with the name of Buck-Boost converter still most of them are still just Buck converters, I see that on eBay all the time. Make sure the description gives you the desired function you need. I almost always use this converter because I have the 56V packs I can supply it with and 95% of the time I need to reduce it. It also regulates the current very well compared to some others I have tested.
Thrifty Tool Shed thank you
Kindly answer, can the system maintain a constant output when the power supply voltage is interrupted i.e fluctuate
I have an updated model to the one you have but I noticed that mine has one thing in common with yours - the set amps does not equal actual amp output. On your video (starting around 9:15) you have the amps set to 1.00A but when you are operating the device it shows a much lower figure (0.25A or close to that). Do you know how to get this to actually output the set amps? I am using this to charge a capacitor but it TAKES FOREVER because this actual amp value not only is much less than my set value but it GOES DOWN as the voltage in the capacitor increases!
If you have any input on this I would be very appreciative. Thanks.
Well what I was showing there is that it is switching from CC to CV. It was not reading incorrectly. I had the V set for 24V and the current limit to 1A.
At 24V the load was only about .25A. so it stayed in CV control. If I take the voltage up the CC kicks in and limits the current to what I have the Current limit set at. So if you want higher current then you have to take up your voltage. You can't make current go higher than the actual load is, just limit it to not go above setpoint limit. Hopefully that makes sense.
I'm only using my own observations on what CC "does" as it applies to a buck (step-down) converter that I had used to charge up the capacitor. It DOES provide a true constant current (about 2A) throughout the entire charge process -- and I don't have to reset the voltage to get it to do that. Also, I don't want to risk overcharging the capacitor (ultracap) since these are highly sensitive to overcharging. I want this to be essentially automated -- I want the boost converter to on its own charge up the capacitor at a constant amp rate until it reaches the final voltage that I have set (typically about 14.5V for a 6x340F series setup). Anyway, I have a manual set type boost converter arriving shortly and I'll see what transpires from that. I'm sure my knowledge of how these things work will notch up a bit after that.
Thanks again for your response.
Sounds like a great set-up. Thanks for your comments!
Great video! Is it possible to connect a potentiometer to this to control either current or voltage manually instead of digitally?
I am not aware of a way to do so.
It is still some modules out there that are just pot controlled.
Im curious about the output......have you tried to power something like a laptop directly, requiring fairly clean DC?
Not a laptop, but some other electronics for sure and I have had no issues with mine. The display makes these very flexible to use with many applications but may be a little bit more of a pain than the type that just set the potientometer for voltage and current and forget setting it up every time, just a thought!
I used the small Yeeco 5A buck converter (like I did in a more recent video) for some similar applications.
do you have to press anything everytime you plug battery to it? I wanna put in inside a project box so I never have to press anything
You need a potentiometer set type for that. You can still find some with the CC and CV pots on them. This one is digital and has to be set and output enabled every power up.
Does this mean that you cannot use this for solar charging?
Well the potentiometer set type may be better for this application but you can change a setting to enable on power up and I believe it defaults to the saved setting in programmed parameter 0? I am trying to remember, it ts been a while. I did upload a copy of the instructions for the drok on my Facebook page because so many people were asking about it, like it quit coming with the Drok?
Ok thank you i have read it and found it. One more question what is the maximum wattage of the solar pannel this device can handle? Is it 750 watt? I have a 400 watt solar pannel
Although I have not push the limits on this, it is rated for up to 750W. I would not be surprised if a fan upgrade may be needed for that wattage though?
Can I use it to step up power from a 12v solar battery to power a tv that requires 19v 3.5a?
Hi,
You will need a boost converter for that. This particular item is a buck only. A select few will do both. Hope this helps! Best of luck!
Thrifty Tool Shed Thanks very much! Would this work? Seems similar but says it’s boost in the description. Drok Numerical Control Regulator DC 8V-60V to 10V-120V 15A Boost Converter, Consta... www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_SBFqEbV277ZRS
Does it have any reverse current protection? Overvoltage? Etc?
This model does not have the built in protection other than diode for reverse protection. This is a model several years old now. Some models may vary?
@@ThriftyToolShed I contacted DROK who told me that in order to prevent reverse current to add a diode to the output.
Not being that eletrically minded, i'd love some more clarification because the last thing i want is something going catastrophically wrong with it and/or the batteries it connects to.
I have yet to find a way to adjust the current cut off when charging CC/CV. So far mine has gone all the way to zero current before saying its done charging my battery. Other than that this is a very nice charger to get a batch of 60ah cells to a proper charge.
This isn't a charger, it is a DC -> DC CC/CV Buck Converter. It is not programmable outside of storage of preset output states you can set it too. You might be able to use the UART port to interface with another device that would act as the sensor and logic processing that could communicate with this to change the output as it monitors the state of the battery if you really wanted to, maybe. This device will alone just maintain the settings you set as output until you change them manually.
they make a small module that wires to the charger ac line it will shut the charger off when it reaches charge small few dollars
What about that grey transparent film, how easy is it to get hold of such kind of film? (it might work just as well for digital number meter reading that has orange color)
I just had that for the camera. It is not something I kept or need to use it with my eyes by any means. It was just some left over diffusers sheet from a old monitor or something...
Tried pushing the input voltage 80-90 volts to 13 volts 4amps output? I noted the input caps are 100volt. Already connected the unit to 84 volts without load and so far so good.
She blew yesterday. I took my battery out and forgot about the inrush current when I reconnected the pack although was only 83volts. Had previous few days charged the pack to 86v. Least I know the 100amp AC breaker works fine. I have a spare just connected it now.
@@e-bikerbulgaria I just ordered this to use for an old skool pedal bicycle - to charge up a lithium generator/battery unit. So not sure I'll go as high as 90 volts - probably though! And hope to get 6 amp output.
Voidisyinyang Voidisyinyang The second unit is working fine. Time will tell. The video displays all the components so very handy I may try and replace the blown components.
@@e-bikerbulgaria good to hear. I should get mine tomorrow. I realized that to set my voltage/amp levels I need to power the DC-DC buck converter first. I have a smaller unit that has screw adjustments - but it's limited to 35 volts. So I just pedal the bicycle up to that voltage level. So I guess I have to hook up a 9 volt battery first so I can first set my amp/voltage levels? Then I can hook it up to the DC motor powered by the bicycle. haha. Right now I'm working on increasing the voltage on my bicycle generator. I'm only at 50 volts in highest gear - before I had 40 volts in lowest gear. But I had the motor polarity reversed and so I didn't get any back current torque load as increased resistance. So I think that is the difference.
Can i yse this as a solar charge controller on a 60 pannel?
hi sorry for my poor understanding of things here. I actually need a 19.5v 16AMP 330w power supply for my laptop running over car battery on 12v. I am not sure which step up supply i need are the constent current regulated supplies work like even if the voltage of battery drop from 12v to let say 10.5v they will regulate the output to 19.5v?. I guess the tiny stepups will reduce the output voltage with the decrease of input voltage.
i am right here please. Also another question i think i can use multiple let say 4x modules to increase the current watts and still keep the voltage to 19.5v.
Your quick reply will help me a lot.
Thank You
Hi,
As far as 4 smaller boost regulators is parallel, it can be done but it is very hard to get them to load share equally and without proper circuit they could produce unstable or even destructive results if not used properly (to make sure feedback doesn't get crazy) I personally just size the one module to my needs. I have not had enough dealings with high wattage boost supplies to give you a straight answer. I have used 3 high wattage boost supplies and I have had issues getting the correct (CC) to work as well as the buck converters do. So I do commonly used my known good buck converters with higher voltage input! I know it's not a good answer. On the bright side I have had fairly good luck with the voltage regulating with the boost modules!
Just a thought but have you considered using a battery such as M18 Milwaukee high capacity for example for portable charging?
There is something that is not clear to me... why does your laptop require so much current? 16A is ridiculously high, isn't it? My biggest, oldest laptop's adapter is only 4.75A! Does your laptop use vacuum tubes, or what?! ;-)
You need to 'boost' the 12V up to 19.5V... But that current requirement means that your converter must draw more than 26 Amps from that 12 volt source in order to even come close to giving you 16A at 19.5V on the output! (Voltage and Current are inversely proportional here.)
As your battery voltage drops, the converter will continue to give 19.5V 16A, but it will do that by drawing even more current from the battery to compensate for the loss in voltage. And because these converters are not meant to run at full capacity for a long time, you would have to buy a converter that is even more powerful than what you need... I hope you are rich!
Like I said, ridiculously high currents for a laptop...
So, unless you are running 4 laptops, it doesn't make sense to me why you need all those Amps!
Hello Sir, I wonder if you can help me, please. I have an RV, with lithium batterys, can I have this DROK puting charge from the alternator to charge the lithium batterys? Thank you.
HI, I have not tried that to say it will work for sure. I know that a voltage limiting and current limiting supply is needed for the lithium battery. I would think it would do fine with the setting for power on with output on automatically. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed many thanks. If one day you sure that it works, I will be thankfully if you tell me. Salut from Portugal.
OK...but exactly what do you actually use it for? Would you use it to charge lipo battery packs? or maybe lithium bayyeries?
Yes, I use it for any variable supply needed below around 60V or so. It's very handy and portable and yes the whole reason people were asking about it is it was seen on some of my EGO pack repair videos. That is the way I charge them.
@@ThriftyToolShed Was wondering as I have some packs to charge, but I do not have a charger for them. Thought if I kept the voltage and current at the specs on the pack I should be able to charge it. The couple supplies I have are specific on voltage and current and are not adjustable like some chargers I have seen.
@@countryside8122
Yes the CV and CC control is great for that.
Can you obtain a constant voltage out with this if your voltage in is fluctuating? So that I could charge batteries with a hand driven dynamo.
Although it maybe possible, you would have to keep the input caps charged up enough to not let the output dropout. It would depend on how much load you have vs. how much current you can supply. You of course will always have to put more power in than you get out, it has some losses. It is somewhere around 85% efficient depending on load.
Thrifty Tool Shed ok thanks for the info. But to be clear, this device could be able to covert fluctuating voltage into a constant voltage with fluctuating current? If the voltage fluctuation is not to big.
THANKS
There is a 48v lithium battery in a scooter.Can I run 24v motor powered bike constants from that battery
AMAZING CREATIVITY WORK , with limited information the answer is: maybe? Can the Drok supply a CV 24v to a motor? Yes. But not all motors! Some motors are not as straight forward as 24v to arm and run. Some brushless for example would need a controller or drive. Also for a special application such as bike, keep in mind the digital selection everytime you use it may be a hassle. One with potentiometer setup maybe a better option in some applications. Hope it helps and good luck with your project!
I need a link to that pdf. Lost mine
I have a .pdf on the Facebook page called "On the bench" just for sharing links and information....
facebook.com/groups/352614655247940/permalink/551405485368855/?mibextid=Nif5oz
Necesito ayuda (help) mi regulador dejo de funcionar y aparentemente es el mosfet que recivio corriente en direccion contraria (reverse power). Como puedo saber si es que se daño el mosfet.
Gracias por tu video, es mu educador.
ruclips.net/video/RkWy1EirEu8/видео.html
Yeah, mine is in locked mode. That’s the way I got it. so it keeps reverting to the input voltage so I need to know a way to unlock this thing and make it stay unlocked but boot to the proper voltage that I said it
I think I did share how to unlock it in this video. It's been a while. I also scanned and added the manual for it in a link to my Facebook page On the Bench if it helps.
You could use this as a solar controller in a pinch and it would work just fine.
Within its limitations.
What are the limitations? Ik have a 50 volt pannel can i use it as solar charger or do i need to put a solar in between? Please advise
The cooling fan does not make much of a difference. The fan should be at the end of an 'air tunnel' around the heat sink, that would evacuate the hot air more efficiently.
I thought the same thing. I don't run mine long enough typically to notice much, but could be an issue for sure!
Mine went bad, any chance u wanna help diagnose it?
Have 750w 10A drok coming. Will that work for my Ego 56v battery? The charger is not picking up a charge and perhaps I can raise the charge enough where the ego 2100 will start charging it? I have 3 2ah and 1 5ah. They all blink with the green light on the charger. Perhaps they are too low? Thoughts 💭??
Ksax Music, It should work just fine. Sounds right to me. Will the indicator light light up at all when pressed while the pack is out if the charger?
Thrifty Tool Shed it doesn’t light up off charger
Ksax Music, be aware that one or more cells may have reached the point of no return. As you check the cells some may even be at or near zero. I will try to get a video up this week about using the drink to balance the cells. This time of year time gets really tight due to me being in industrial maintenance/repair.
Using the Drok that is! Lol.
Appreciate any time you invest in others. I’m an evangelist and have given my time for 27 years to others, so I do understand and thank you! Thanks 🙏
After switching off .does this memorize previous setting.
Well not exactly. By default on every power up you will have to adjust to setpoint desired and enable output. Now you can do a few neat things in the setup. You have up to 10 selectable parameter locations that you can store your setpoint and they will be stored even when powered off. Then you can enable a parameter that allows the converter auto start up and that will default to the storage setpoint 0. Your first setpoint. I did scan in the setup guide for this converter due to all the questions over the last 3 years or so. It is pinned it the video description.
What do you think the efficiency of this converter is going from 48VDC to 13.6VDC?
Jeff Hiley, Thay is a great question. In the specs they claim
Typical Efficiency: 94% (input 54V, output 30V, current 5A) I really would be surprised at that high of efficiency, I will have to try it out at the values you ask about to know for sure.
I am debating whether to step down a 48V 14S4P Li-ion battery to use with a Dometic CFX50 powered cooler or build another 7S battery(it also runs on 24VDC) to use. I am interested to know what numbers you get, the load of the fridge is very light.
Jeff Hiley , I finally did a video on efficiency today! Hope it helps. Thanks for your comment!
ruclips.net/video/dTUv44Pc8O8/видео.html
I purchased one. Why can't I output more than 2 amps?
You should be able to. I added a instruction sheet on my Facebook page since they apparently no longer come with one. Hopefully it will help you? It should be as easy as adjusting the output. Remember it is CV and CC so it is controlling voltage as well. So if you could possible have a 2amp load at that controlled voltage so the current will not go above the load at that voltage control set point. Another thing is to make sure your supply can handle more than the load you have. Best of luck to ya!
Hi, me again :D Any ideas where i can download the instructions for these?
i was wondering what F2 and F3 do? I think i might have blown one of my units. I can't seem to get anything except for the input voltage through the output terminals.
I was charging 2 leisure batteries from my solar array. Solar voltage was around 19V and i had two units connected in parallel. However i also had my two deep cycle batteries in parallel at first. the power from my solar array is between 200 and 700W depending on the sun.
one seems to work fine but the other just won't switch into any other voltage other than what is coming from the panels.
it still shows the current but i can't limit current neither can i limit the voltage. I've checked the unit is not locked by holding down set in the A setting.
I was also wondering how you toggle between cc and cv i guess you just lower the current setting to any value lower than what the device being driven is drawing and it will switch into cc mode?
I have added a scanned copy of the Drok instructions to my Facebook group ( On The Bench)
m.facebook.com/groups/352614655247940?view=permalink&id=551405485368855
I wish I could post it here, but RUclips still won't allow files!
I tried to give a brief overview of operation in my video, but if I had known some people do not get the instructions with there's I would have spent more time on it! Hope it helps!
It may have a serious design flaw and could blow up your circuit - see rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/11/is-d3806-boostbuck-dc-dc-power-supply.html. If your unit does not produce large pulses on switch on/off, please let me know it's Part Number.
I can't cut off output to set constant v & c
Also can't get constant voltage light to come on. Aren't both cc & cv supposed to light up when they're output where you set them them?😢😢😢😢😢
PLEASE HELP! Is there a reason I am not able to boost anymore voltage than around (OUTPUT) 44V 0.01A thats running off an old computer wall charging cable with (INPUT) 12V 1A power supply that I have plugged into my wall? I dont understand because everytime I close the circuit the voltage either jumps down to around 15V, from 30V and doesn’t go back up, it just stays down and is jumping right around 15V. And when I increase voltage 44V+ it basically shuts down when I close the circuit and shows a single number on LED screen which can be a random number, although I thinks its been (0) the most, if that means anything? I’m electric Anodizing Incase that helps. I’m not shorting the circuit out either. So I’m wondering if you think the INPUT just needs current for the OUTPUT to work at higher voltages (I’m trying to find one that gets up to 120V with no problem)? Eeven though I dont need or want current from my OUTPUT except maybe a few mA’s. I just need something that can boost up to around 120V using this type of wall jack power supply. I didn’t get this exact model either. I got the 900W version but it should function the same way. Please let me know if you have any input on this matter. Iv been searching everywhere and don’t know if It’s defective and I should return it or if I’m doing something wrong. Another thing I noticed is that no matter how many times I try to change the Current setting, while it turned on, it keeps going back to 0.01A. It used to let me change this setting by selecting “SET” then when I’m done press “Ok” to initiate output. All of a sudden started doing weird things. Is my power supply okay to use like that or am I supposed to use something else? Iv even trued using a 9V battery, which does work but causes the same issues. Please and Thanks
Hunter Keating, I have not tried this unit with that low of wattage input. This is a high output device with loses. I did a video at higher wattages showing loses through the converter. But with only a 12watt input you could lose alot of that wattage just converting the voltage especially trying to boost voltage several times higher. Just my thoughts again haven't tried it at that low of input wattage it could even be pulling down your input.
Thrifty Tool Shed Thanks for your reply and that does make since and was going to be my next move. I just thought since it’s input parameter was from 8-60V 0-15A and with output parameter 9-120V 0-15A I figured as long as I was within those input parameters it would be able to boost it up. But from your experience do you think I need to increase my input amperage (or voltage and Amperage) so that the input power is stronger which I’m guessing helps boost the output power, since mine was too low before? For instance (and just as an example), would a more efficient input, for me to want to get the most voltage out of this Booster, be a power supply that is something like 12V 10A = 120W, since I want my output to be, at max, around 110V 1A = 110W? If that’s the case then it’s not really boosting anything really right, and just allowing me to adjust the output voltage and current or is that just how these things work best? Or are you just saying that the power was just so low before that it may have needed a little more power, let’s say a 60W input, in order to get a higher output power (say 120W) since I initially had such a low power input, like you were saying, or am I thinking about this all wrong? Thanks so much for your help!
Hunter Keating , yes I would go up on input voltage and current and just realize you will have some loss so I would think a 24v 2A supply or so is what I would try. I do want to mention that I do not have the boost converter. Mine of course is a buck converter so it's just an assumption! I ordered mine to use my 56V nominal batteries to bring that portable supply with me to use for any voltage charger etc. I need from basically 0-58V or so. Hope it helps, hope it works out!
can i charging lifepo 12S batery ? whith cc 9 A i hawe 36V power suply
Hi,
If I understand your question fully you are looking to charge a 12S lipo pack which is around 45V fully charged and if you only have a 36V input you will need a Boost converter. I showed a buck converter in this video.
The boost converter will let you BOOST the voltage up from input voltage as the buck will only reduce down from your input voltage! Hope it helps and good luck!
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you wery much
@@ThriftyToolShed think you i can charge li bat whith boost conwer. Or what configuration is bether boost or back conwertor for charging.
@@tomgreysk - Either one should be fine it all depends on your supply feeding it. If you are lower input voltage than you need get a Boost converter. If you are higher in than you need get a Buck converter. You will need a supply of around 55-60V to use some buck converters to get down to around 45-48V out. I have had better luck typically with Buck converters especially with the current control. It's rare but sometimes you can find buck/boost converters that can do both!
@@ThriftyToolShed thamks it is problbly bether controling cc on step down controler . Corect ? Like controling it on step up controler. This constant curent. And cv to.
Can I use this circuit to charge 48v lead acid battery ?
Please answer soon
PRASHANTA Das, absolutely, but you need to consider the amp-hour of battery supplying the battery to be charged. Naturally should be much larger battery or supply to charge. The cool thing about the drok is you can CC the charge as well as Voltage control. Remember that this drok is a buck regulator not boost. So battery voltage should be able to stay well above output needed.
Thrifty Tool Shed : can you please provide a 12v to 48v battery charger circuit (converted from 12v to 48v) max 50vDC, to charge the e-rickshaw while in running condition.
So the DROK can run an LED with no resistor? Wow, I have to try
this.
Hi,
It's current limited so I have had good operation of LEDs with these. Of course it has to be set correctly for LED circuit and be enough of a load to have current to regulate. I would not rely on it for any tight control under 1A or so without testing first.
@@ThriftyToolShed hmm, alright thanks I’ll try it out. This could be amazing for a PWM dimming circuit prototype for LED’s.
They work well till you get stuck with a display with a u!!?
That would suck for sure!
interesting i'd like to know if it possible to remove the voltage/ammeter that's coming with the step up board and switch it potentiometere and volt/ammeter....
if anybody know it would you kindly explain it to me?
I do not know of a way to do that. You could extend the headers and relocate the display if desired since it is pushed into board header connections. There are Buck Converters available that do have potentiometer adjustments if that is what you are looking for.
@@ThriftyToolShed i've been looking for buck converters that has an output above 100v dc and working in a decent fashion but i couldn't find any good one with potentiometer installed.
by any chance you have any suggestions?
something in between 100v and 250v dc with 20 amps
What input do you have for supply?
I just realized you are looking for 20A at over 200V. I have not seen anything in that category. You are looking at 4000W! That will most likely require special build.
@@ThriftyToolShed ac to dc 24 and 36 v board 1 each plus a power supply 12v
I worry about not being able to calibrate these DC to DC devices with displays.
I would not use for any precision work for sure. I do enjoy the setup quick setup without getting out and connecting meters up. I do grab this Drok more than my manual pot setup boards for that reason hands down but I feel the same way about accuracy when it matters. All and all I can say for the money I just really like having it around. Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed I totally agree and I love the AC to DC and DC to DC videos, great job I must say. At worst you can test it against a Fluke and note the differences.
Thanks very informative!
I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on running this drok with the power supply of a computer.I have a drok up converter running on a 12volt 380watt pc power supply. So far have only charged li ion batteries up to 36volt which it has handled without a sweat.
Was not aware they had one that would both increase and decrease voltage. If you could tell me the description on the drok site so I can ensure I get the right one I would much appreciate it .
Andrew Walker, this is Amazon description, no actual part number attached.
NC 12A/720W Converter
DROK
DROK DC-DC Buck Conveter Digital Control Voltage Regulator 10-75V to 0-60V 12A 720W Step Down Transformer with Volt Amp Capacity Time Meter Power Supply Module with Constant Voltage/Current
Andrew Walker,
DROK DC-DC Buck Conveter Digital Control Voltage Regulator 10-75V to 0-60V 12A 720W Step Down Transformer with Volt Amp Capacity Time Meter Power Supply Module with Constant Voltage/Current www.amazon.com/dp/B071LGTTRN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vwItAbYVJ7KPY
Andrew Walker, as far as using for computer(laptop?) power supply I believe it could be a good choice
But I have not put a scope on output to check how clean the output is, I would compare with typical laptop switch mode pack just to make sure noise/frequency are similar just to be safe. Thanks for your comment.
You can use a PC power supply to provide a dc input, you would only get 12v out of a pc supply and maybe 19v from a laptop adapter with maybe 4-6 amps. If you want to be able to set higher voltages and provide more power you will need a higher voltage input that can provide the amount of current you want to set. Seams like you could find something for far less the 30 bucks if your only will make use of 12-19v and 4-6 amps of using this buck converter.
Sir thanks for your job posting for . I am interested in your job. I wont advise me to a drock. DC to DC . I required for my hho kit power supply do it in a bike bettery power a 12vdc/2.5amp to connect a drock booster.so how much power ampier load power supply congium.plase reply to me and my project is completed
I do not know what you are asking!
Would you be so kind as do a video on the DROK Step-Down Power Module,...transformer with USB Port?
I purchased one from Amazon and it came without instruction and I can not figure it out from the site at
www.Droking.com support. I can not even find it. the box says it is a J3X with a bar code # of
X027GF49N.
Once I have seen your video, I believe what I should have asked for is the Drok Constant Voltage, Constant Current
Regulator.
Hi,
I did not find a Drok with this part number, but how close is it to this yecco buck converter in this video I uploaded recently?
ruclips.net/video/O3QfgTWSp3E/видео.html
You need a proper BMS to charge battery packs, they will not self balance.
Absolutely!
Anyone push the input above 65v. I want to take my 84v battery and bring it down to like 48v
I have not pushed this one. I have coma across some converters with 100V rating. Not as high of wattage though.
@@ThriftyToolShed send a link please
* Updated: on second thought they are not clear on voltage rating?
I would ask before i ordered this one?
This is just one I came across, you have option of 150W or 300W. It may work, but check it out for yourself. I have not used it myself to say for sure! Hope it helps some....
eBay Link to 300W 100V Input Buck Converter
ebay.us/DY5uC5
This is one that states 10-90V Input adjustable, but may not be current adjustable. Very vague!
eBay Link to 10-90V Input Buck Converter
ebay.us/UMqmRm
Amazon Link to 10-90V Input DC-DC Buck Regulator:
amzn.to/3sEXpwP
I don't see as many on ebay as I once did. I do see some Boost or step up dc-dc converters with higher voltage rating but not Buck converters. sorry!
I don"t see the point of going through the components. If you use it within parameters and it blows up just make sure to have a video to show them and you will get a refund. Whats more as far as I am concerned the maximum ratings are not constant ratings. I mean 64amps through even a to220 package. Yeah for 1 second
I would love to see your content and learn from your vast experience!
The detail Tool Shed provided proves the quality of components used on the board. Quality = longevity , Thanks TTS!
Hi i'm looking at converting 72v dc 80A battery into a 96v cv at 50A cc, is it possible?
And also a 48v dc 25A into 60v cv at 15A cc ?
It Is hard to find more than a 1500W DC-DC converter. So the 96V @ 50A will be tough to find. The 60v @ 15A should be fairly easy to find a Boost Converter up to 1000W.
A couple of examples of Boost
Converter 800w and 1500W.
a.co/d/fN2enef
a.co/d/50Zc0PI
THANKS