Funny coincidence, I just installed one of these on my mobile rpi (#%*&! 5.1v requirement LOL). BTW, the red plastic bits extend the setup buttons through the case🙈. Great vid as always!
Mike, this was great and as a result I bought a couple DROK Buck Converters. Very Handy. I appreciate all you do. Just a thought…when I was out in the field with my 818, Bioenno and Buck Converter it occurred to me that bringing along the Buck Converter was “solving a non-problem”. If you’ve got the Bioenno just turn off the Windcamp and plug in the Bioenno. Super fast and keep operating. Especially easy if you’ve got the Windcamp Powerpole mod for the 818 charging socket. Why bring along an extra piece of gear when it’s really not needed?
Mike, very timely! I have a 110VAC to 12vdc regulated power supply that recently started putting out 20+ vdc... meaning the internal voltage regulator has developed an issue. I was loath to try to diagnose and repair the regulator circuit in it, so this little do-dad is an inexpensive band-aid to make the power supply usable again. Update: received mine today... those red do-dads are not to keep junk out of the in/out screw terminals, they go in the two slots to the right of the display on the top plate , the "legs" straddle micro switches. When the top is in place, they will actuate the switches when depressed. Thanks for posting this video!! 73 de KN6VMK
Good video. I have some stuff that the ferrules won't fit into, didn't think to just crush the end a little, usually you can tell that it would fit if it was flatter and wider, so I like that idea.
I am sceptical about this but I am regulating a water wheel generator output. Range is from 11 to 18 volts. My question it will this device hold it's quality without malfunction? I can't afford a blackout at night in the woods.
That sounds like it would need more than the 5 amps this thing is rated for I would imagine. But I've been using mine for years without issue for what it's worth.
those little red things are the buttons. Take the top off and push them in the two holes from under the top and they will stick out through the top to push the buttons.
Yo Mike, I don't think the USB connector is a straight 5V USB but rather whatever the buck converter is set to so be careful plugging USB devices into that connector unless the converter is set to 5V. A friend fried his cellfone on a similar unit when it was set to 12v...
Just watching this video, the red things that you say are for the plug ports are actually supposed to go next to the display on the right over the buttons.
The red things are for the buttons they go under the top cover. To use for the mode to turn on usb and off and other button us to see the voltages and the current set for and to see what the current is drawing for the buck converter
Hey Mike, have you had a problem or noticed that the battery meter you use in your battery boxes don't track power in? I believe I have the same meter, and when I charge it, it keeps counting up on the Wh and Ah tracker, so I can't see how much power I should have left in the battery. Any thoughts?
They only don't track power when they are turned off. Sounds like yours is working exactly like it should. The meter doesn't care if you're charging or discharging. If there's power going through it, it's going to count it. If you're charging, just note what the capacity used is and then what the meter says when you're done charging. Subtract the two and there you go. Until you fully charge it that is. Then you can reset the whole thing and start over.
I don't think it's really anyones fault. It's just the type of cells that are in the battery. LiPo cells have I think a 3.7V nominal voltage. So 3 in series when fully charge would be at the ~12.2 that they charge up to. You'd be over 15V with a 4 cell pack. Now, could they have put some circuitry to step down the voltage inside the door? Maybe. There seems to be room. That would have been nice, but I understand what they did.
I got the Drok boost / buck version and planned to use it to maintain constant voltage for my QDX running at 9V and QRP Guys digital transceiver running at 13.8V. I also wanted to monitor / limit the current to protect the QRP rigs. Unfortunately, I found that the current readings were so inaccurate as to be useless and sent it back.
@@chrissewell1608 You can calibrate the voltage and current separately. The voltage was accurate out of the box. The current was high (double my DMM) when the rig was receiving and low (~1/3 my DMM) when transmiiting. Calibration is only a one-point adjustment so it didn't fix this very nonlinear error.
Excellent! Quick question. What size is the barrel connector for the Windcamp Charger? Or did you just cut the Windcamp Charger and put a Powerpole on it?
Funny coincidence, I just installed one of these on my mobile rpi (#%*&! 5.1v requirement LOL). BTW, the red plastic bits extend the setup buttons through the case🙈. Great vid as always!
yup, noticed that too!🙃
I was just thinking the same thing.. He is wrong those red plastic bit extenders.. they don't go to the input or output slots...
Yes, Drok seems to do VERY nicely with USB voltage gizmos and 12ish volt gizmos. They've done a nice job becoming a reliable brand name.
Mike, this was great and as a result I bought a couple DROK Buck Converters. Very Handy. I appreciate all you do. Just a thought…when I was out in the field with my 818, Bioenno and Buck Converter it occurred to me that bringing along the Buck Converter was “solving a non-problem”. If you’ve got the Bioenno just turn off the Windcamp and plug in the Bioenno. Super fast and keep operating. Especially easy if you’ve got the Windcamp Powerpole mod for the 818 charging socket. Why bring along an extra piece of gear when it’s really not needed?
Any RFI from the converter?
Nope. Been using these for years in the shack.
You can also use a buck coverter to step down a solar panel for charging :)
I myself am doing this, i cant configure the Buck Converter correctly, any suggestions?
Check the manual, and set the output voltage to the normal charging voltage for your battery type... Is your buck converter adjustable@@starwarskid93
Does anyone know the max amp in I don't want to kill mine was planning on connecting it to a 20 amp car battery for out in the field charging
Mike, very timely! I have a 110VAC to 12vdc regulated power supply that recently started putting out 20+ vdc... meaning the internal voltage regulator has developed an issue. I was loath to try to diagnose and repair the regulator circuit in it, so this little do-dad is an inexpensive band-aid to make the power supply usable again. Update: received mine today... those red do-dads are not to keep junk out of the in/out screw terminals, they go in the two slots to the right of the display on the top plate , the "legs" straddle micro switches. When the top is in place, they will actuate the switches when depressed. Thanks for posting this video!! 73 de KN6VMK
This is just a fancy converter right? No extras features
Good video. I have some stuff that the ferrules won't fit into, didn't think to just crush the end a little, usually you can tell that it would fit if it was flatter and wider, so I like that idea.
I am sceptical about this but I am regulating a water wheel generator output. Range is from 11 to 18 volts. My question it will this device hold it's quality without malfunction? I can't afford a blackout at night in the woods.
That sounds like it would need more than the 5 amps this thing is rated for I would imagine. But I've been using mine for years without issue for what it's worth.
those little red things are the buttons. Take the top off and push them in the two holes from under the top and they will stick out through the top to push the buttons.
Is it pronounced DROK or DROK?
I believe it's "DROK". Just like it's spelled.
🤯🤣 And I thought it was pronounced "DRoK"!?
Drok
The red plastic pieces are the button insert for the front.
Yep. They sure are. I found that out after editing this video when I finally read the manual lol!
I use this same converter for my MT5B Mountain Topper since the max input voltage is 12.0 volts. I normally run the MT5B at 11.5 Volts.
Two little "red things" that you dismiss are very important, they push buttons.
Yes. I learned that immediately after hitting the stop record button when I read the instructions lol!
Thank you for this. Can you recommend an assembled version rather than kit form? I’m presently handicapped by time, tools and dexterity 😂
Yo Mike, I don't think the USB connector is a straight 5V USB but rather whatever the buck converter is set to so be careful plugging USB devices into that connector unless the converter is set to 5V. A friend fried his cellfone on a similar unit when it was set to 12v...
I liked your video so much that I bought one. what is it called and where to buy the connectors that you have at the entrance and at the exit? 😊😊😊
A buck convertor would be a handy tool on the test bench, for testing LED lights, strips, fans, and other gizmos! 🛠
what does the buck converter convert? the buck to a doe? lol :)
It steps down voltage
Just watching this video, the red things that you say are for the plug ports are actually supposed to go next to the display on the right over the buttons.
Yes, I found that out after reading the instructions (duh) after making this video.
@@hamradiotube :)
The red things are for the buttons they go under the top cover. To use for the mode to turn on usb and off and other button us to see the voltages and the current set for and to see what the current is drawing for the buck converter
Gracias Mick muy buen video ud si sabe mucho felicitaciones amigo
Hey Mike, have you had a problem or noticed that the battery meter you use in your battery boxes don't track power in? I believe I have the same meter, and when I charge it, it keeps counting up on the Wh and Ah tracker, so I can't see how much power I should have left in the battery. Any thoughts?
They only don't track power when they are turned off. Sounds like yours is working exactly like it should. The meter doesn't care if you're charging or discharging. If there's power going through it, it's going to count it. If you're charging, just note what the capacity used is and then what the meter says when you're done charging. Subtract the two and there you go. Until you fully charge it that is. Then you can reset the whole thing and start over.
@K8MRD Mike...what bag is that? I am looking for one for my FT-818ND as well.
It's the Red Rocks Bag. www.amazon.com/shop/k8mrdradiostuff/list/3IDFQ7RUY84A4?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
Hard to believe that the Windcamp system is not engineered to charge from automotive sources. That would seem to be a more than substantial oversight.
I don't think it's really anyones fault. It's just the type of cells that are in the battery. LiPo cells have I think a 3.7V nominal voltage. So 3 in series when fully charge would be at the ~12.2 that they charge up to. You'd be over 15V with a 4 cell pack. Now, could they have put some circuitry to step down the voltage inside the door? Maybe. There seems to be room. That would have been nice, but I understand what they did.
I got the Drok boost / buck version and planned to use it to maintain constant voltage for my QDX running at 9V and QRP Guys digital transceiver running at 13.8V. I also wanted to monitor / limit the current to protect the QRP rigs. Unfortunately, I found that the current readings were so inaccurate as to be useless and sent it back.
Do you have to calibrate it, first? The Droke battery monitor has to be calibrated, by the user, before using it.
@@chrissewell1608 You can calibrate the voltage and current separately. The voltage was accurate out of the box. The current was high (double my DMM) when the rig was receiving and low (~1/3 my DMM) when transmiiting. Calibration is only a one-point adjustment so it didn't fix this very nonlinear error.
Nice find at that price. Thanks Mike
Ooh...😮 I love a kit build!
Excellent! Quick question. What size is the barrel connector for the Windcamp Charger? Or did you just cut the Windcamp Charger and put a Powerpole on it?
Cut the wire and put a power pole on it.
@@hamradiotube Thanks. I would have expected nothing less 😀 73
That is so funny! I got this same exact one a few months ago 👍
How do you increase the amperage? The instructions suck!
Or just use 2 diodes in series. Much simpler.
Not exactly variable.
Awesome Mike!!!!
Is there a Spec for max Amperage?
Yes. It's in the manual which I threw away. A quick look at the Amazon page says max 5 amps, 4.5 continuous.