Nice one-take! I too am so confused over the MC1 to RDX switch. My take away is that the pro-drivers have so much skill they can win with anything, but they'll always run the newest "hot" chassis because that gives them the most confidence. They won't have the demons in their head saying "That guy beat me because he was running X".
That’s a nice perspective. I didnt even think about it like that. With so much happening every year in the scene, gotta stay relevant I guess with new stuff. Especially with sponsors involved.
From following online and local communities, I think the switch from MC1 to the RDX is mainly have to do with the great tune it has and how easy it is to get it. The MC1 and most conversion kits, have a lot of room of customization for setup/tune and be more dependent on the user to understand all the parts/adjustments and get it suited to their driving style. While for the RDX, Reve D did heavy R&D to get a jack-of-all-trades tune with an easy to drive style to it and designed the car to be more fixed on the tune so it's harder for the user to alter it in a non preferred way. This means the RDX owners can just follow the manual to get a good driving car vs a MC1 owner needing to do their own R&D to get a good driving car
Do you prefer the uniformity style of build that the RDX offers? Do you prefer the customizable style of the MC1? I like both but I cant say I’d be proud to win a competition with the RDX unless its a chassis sanctioned class. RDX only. I prefer to win with my built and tuned chassis.
@@idealautofactory I also agree on preferring to win with my own built/tuned chassis but I think there are a time and place for both situation. I will mainly lean towards a customizable car in most cases and if the time is very limited in a situation, then I would go with the rdx or any chassis similar in terms of fixed tune
You hit the nail on the head. Seriously, it’s about time we got a universal chassis that performs well but has key interchangeable components like the diff or rear camber and motor positions. I like that they give you just enough freedom but not enough to totally mess up.
The one upgrade most are doing are dumping the caliper and plastic hex rotors....they wobble and break for some, so they are putting the aluminium EZ hubs instead. For me, the spool had to go and now has Yokomo YD2 resin gear diff with AL outdrives. MC-1 rear magnet mount and RDX front magnet mounts and 2mm front shock spacer. The MC-1 spur adapter I have incoming for spur changes. Don't think I'll touch the AL front knuckles or rear hubs, but the front ASL axles are nice to use.
@@idealautofactory my factory RDX spur is smidge bit out of round. I do run pinion gear mesh on the tight spec side for clearance and noticed it's OK at one side 180deg away, the clearance goes away, so I have to add more spacing on the gear mesh. Nothing big, but I did notice the slightly louder gear noise because of this.
hi there. im new into rc drifting and recently got a rdx kit. compared to my buggy setups. i have no idea how to put or buy for body shell mount or what sort of body fits the rdx. if you could shine some light would be highly appriciated. no video around too.
Oh jeeezzz he got dat italian flow 👀👀 and yeah on the adding extra stuff to it currently the galm ya gave me is probably my lightest car 🤔 have to weigh em 😅
Just picked up my rdx kit at my LHS. Im a 2wd off road buggy racer at heart but the LHS had a drift day and i fell in love and had to buy one lol. The workers, owner of the shop, and a few drivers all recommended the RDX. My buddy i was with tried talking me out of the rdx to get the mst rmx 2.5 rtr. I went with the rdx anyways and hope i made a good chocie lol. Cant wait to start building this. What upgrades does it need out the box? Or should i just build it ans drive it without upgrading?
Is there a reason you didn't mount the esc in the back on the esc mount? I'm installing my electronics now and trying to decide where to install everything. L
Always like a new IAF upload notification ! Could You do me a massive favour , Could You post the settings of Your Yokomo Servo and Gyro / I have the Program card and with the antiShake set to a place where I'm getting no Hunting My SP03D V2 has a horrible sketchy and notch feeling on the Slide Rack of My MD 1.0 , Running at 7.4 V from the BEC / when I go back to stock factory settings on the SP03D V2 and run about 75% gyro gain in green on the V4 Gyro the hunting shake comes back ,, I put in a Reved ST servo and I instantly had no Hunting and could run Gyro gain in red or green up to almost 100% ,, I run on carpet with MST silver dot tyres and Purple/Red MD 1.0 settings with 3 gear // Any settings would be great help , Thanks for another upload IAF
My place, Bintulu at Sarawak of Malaysia, had major brand of 3Racing, Yokomo and ReveD. Our place runs on Yokomo and ReveD. I used MC1, MC2, and current RDX. To be honest, RDX is good for our tracks since our event run in shopping mall. Or Boulevard like in US terms. For RDX.....basically a had idea of 3Racing D5MR. Easy to maintenance and nitpicking mixing with other part like ReveD ASL, Yokomo UJ cup, motor swap without opening this and that. Ease of maintenance and performance wise, not far from MC1. Good but not best.
Yea it does. Cant just slap it on any kind of way. Some need to be flat and others need to but vertical. Most are flat. Some cant be upside down unless they have a reverse function.
Nice man, finally built mine the other day, apart from nice electronics, I’m keeping stock, can’t wait try it out hehe
Ok cool. Yea keep it stock and let the good times begin!
Nice one-take! I too am so confused over the MC1 to RDX switch. My take away is that the pro-drivers have so much skill they can win with anything, but they'll always run the newest "hot" chassis because that gives them the most confidence. They won't have the demons in their head saying "That guy beat me because he was running X".
That’s a nice perspective. I didnt even think about it like that. With so much happening every year in the scene, gotta stay relevant I guess with new stuff. Especially with sponsors involved.
From following online and local communities, I think the switch from MC1 to the RDX is mainly have to do with the great tune it has and how easy it is to get it. The MC1 and most conversion kits, have a lot of room of customization for setup/tune and be more dependent on the user to understand all the parts/adjustments and get it suited to their driving style. While for the RDX, Reve D did heavy R&D to get a jack-of-all-trades tune with an easy to drive style to it and designed the car to be more fixed on the tune so it's harder for the user to alter it in a non preferred way. This means the RDX owners can just follow the manual to get a good driving car vs a MC1 owner needing to do their own R&D to get a good driving car
Do you prefer the uniformity style of build that the RDX offers? Do you prefer the customizable style of the MC1?
I like both but I cant say I’d be proud to win a competition with the RDX unless its a chassis sanctioned class. RDX only. I prefer to win with my built and tuned chassis.
@@idealautofactory I also agree on preferring to win with my own built/tuned chassis but I think there are a time and place for both situation. I will mainly lean towards a customizable car in most cases and if the time is very limited in a situation, then I would go with the rdx or any chassis similar in terms of fixed tune
You hit the nail on the head. Seriously, it’s about time we got a universal chassis that performs well but has key interchangeable components like the diff or rear camber and motor positions. I like that they give you just enough freedom but not enough to totally mess up.
The one upgrade most are doing are dumping the caliper and plastic hex rotors....they wobble and break for some, so they are putting the aluminium EZ hubs instead. For me, the spool had to go and now has Yokomo YD2 resin gear diff with AL outdrives. MC-1 rear magnet mount and RDX front magnet mounts and 2mm front shock spacer. The MC-1 spur adapter I have incoming for spur changes. Don't think I'll touch the AL front knuckles or rear hubs, but the front ASL axles are nice to use.
The MC1 spur gear adapter is a must. Gotta have me some adjustable gearing, Idc how fool proof the car is.
@@idealautofactory my factory RDX spur is smidge bit out of round. I do run pinion gear mesh on the tight spec side for clearance and noticed it's OK at one side 180deg away, the clearance goes away, so I have to add more spacing on the gear mesh. Nothing big, but I did notice the slightly louder gear noise because of this.
@idealautofactory which part number is the Mc1 gear replacement? Placing my order now and wanna make sure I get the right one
hi there. im new into rc drifting and recently got a rdx kit. compared to my buggy setups. i have no idea how to put or buy for body shell mount or what sort of body fits the rdx. if you could shine some light would be highly appriciated. no video around too.
Oh jeeezzz he got dat italian flow 👀👀 and yeah on the adding extra stuff to it currently the galm ya gave me is probably my lightest car 🤔 have to weigh em 😅
😂😂 the galm is the lightest? I forgot how light that car was 😂😂. I should weigh mine too now.
Just picked up my rdx kit at my LHS. Im a 2wd off road buggy racer at heart but the LHS had a drift day and i fell in love and had to buy one lol. The workers, owner of the shop, and a few drivers all recommended the RDX. My buddy i was with tried talking me out of the rdx to get the mst rmx 2.5 rtr. I went with the rdx anyways and hope i made a good chocie lol. Cant wait to start building this. What upgrades does it need out the box? Or should i just build it ans drive it without upgrading?
Is there a reason you didn't mount the esc in the back on the esc mount? I'm installing my electronics now and trying to decide where to install everything. L
Everybody does the rear mount. I just chose a different route.
Always like a new IAF upload notification ! Could You do me a massive favour , Could You post the settings of Your Yokomo Servo and Gyro / I have the Program card and with the antiShake set to a place where I'm getting no Hunting My SP03D V2 has a horrible sketchy and notch feeling on the Slide Rack of My MD 1.0 , Running at 7.4 V from the BEC / when I go back to stock factory settings on the SP03D V2 and run about 75% gyro gain in green on the V4 Gyro the hunting shake comes back ,, I put in a Reved ST servo and I instantly had no Hunting and could run Gyro gain in red or green up to almost 100% ,, I run on carpet with MST silver dot tyres and Purple/Red MD 1.0 settings with 3 gear // Any settings would be great help , Thanks for another upload IAF
I got you. Thanks for the views and the questions. I appreciate it
Can you adjust the turnbuckles
My place, Bintulu at Sarawak of Malaysia, had major brand of 3Racing, Yokomo and ReveD. Our place runs on Yokomo and ReveD. I used MC1, MC2, and current RDX. To be honest, RDX is good for our tracks since our event run in shopping mall. Or Boulevard like in US terms.
For RDX.....basically a had idea of 3Racing D5MR. Easy to maintenance and nitpicking mixing with other part like ReveD ASL, Yokomo UJ cup, motor swap without opening this and that. Ease of maintenance and performance wise, not far from MC1. Good but not best.
does gyro orientation not matter?
Yea it does. Cant just slap it on any kind of way. Some need to be flat and others need to but vertical. Most are flat. Some cant be upside down unless they have a reverse function.