Did you hear that? That was the sound of my jaw bouncing off the floor again when it dropped. To see the falcon progress in that montage then, I now REALLY appreciate how much work you did! And how much I need to catch up... Thanks for the inspirado again dude, I really enjoyed following this one!!!
Urgent question: I recently purchased the FineMolds 1/72 Falcon online- but the scammers who sold it did not include the bottom half of the Falcon! ( They gave me duplicate top halves instead.) Now I know why it was so cheap ($125) Wondering (hoping) I can do some surgery and use the MPC bottom half and graft / sculpt/ merge it onto the FineMolds top half. Possible?! Your opinion please. Thank you!
Oh no! That sucks utterly, is there no way you can claw back your payments? Definitely file a claim to try to if you can. Unless it was a bank transfer, you can usually get Paypal etc. payments back if you file a claim. I honestly have no idea if you could merge those two, I don't even know if the old MPC hull would even be the same scale. The FM Falcons were based on the actual studio models, whereas the MPC ones were just kind of made up based on design drawings and pulled out of someone's ass, so I don't even know how accurate the proportions of the various sections would be and if any of it would line up, tbh. I don't think it would be impossible, but I can't imagine how much work that might be. Maybe it might be better to use one of the crappy modern Revell 1/72 Falcon kits instead (the cheap ones, not the £300 one). Those are still utter ass but might be a little closer in rough shape and size than the old MPC ones. As there's no other real option I can think of (other than writing it all off as a learning experience as to where to buy stuff from), I'd say give it a go, there's not really much to lose. Also, it would be worth joining the Modelmaker's Boomhut and telling your story in there, both as a cautionary tale to members and also in the hope that one of the 4000 folks in there may be able to offer more helpful advice - some of them are crazy skilled ^_^ facebook.com/groups/modelboomhut/
Aha, the age old question :) Truth be told. I have no idea ^_^ I don't stick to any hard and fast formula. Tamiya paints are quite airbrushable without being thinned, for most colours, but if I feel the need or want to make the paint I have last longer I will add between 5-7 drops (from a dropper) of Tamiya X-20a thinner to a two-thirds full airbrush paint cup (and I have no idea what size my paint cup is). if you're not sure, just try spraying neat onto a scrap of plastic or a scrappy model you don't care about. If you have uneven flow or splatteriness try adding a few drops to see if that helps.
I'd love to see if Bandai can top the FM kit now that they have the licence - by the looks of things they'll have a tough job. So far the only larger ship on the release schedule is Slave 1 but they're doing that in 1/144
5ynthesizerpatel I can't wait either, having just gotten into Bandai Gunpla kits I am REALLY looking forward to a snap-fit Falcon to their usual standard. As long as it is at least 1/72 scale (although even bigger would be better) Also "Look Around You" FTW ^_^
Modelmaking Guru I'm putting an outside bet on them skipping 1/72 altogether and going for 1/48 .... or bigger. Even if they don't it's no disaster - the rumour is that Revell USA have bought the Finemolds moulds and will be selling them under the Revell Master Series brand
Oh God. Revell. Really? Like, Revell "we make the WORST model kits in the whole world and don't you believe otherwise"? . Ugh. I'm sure they'll totally screw that up then, even with someone else's moulds. That's like the worst thing ever.
+Sweet Betzy On this build, I guess you could say it was a slather wash - 1 pot of Tamiya thinner with a few brushfuls of Tamiya Smoke added to make a wash, brushed liberally and without thought all over the model, everywhere. Then it is simply left alone to dry (takes a few hours, or you can carefully speed things up with a hairdryer from a distance). It collects in recesses like a pin wash but also tints the hull overall, making it a little warmer. And where it collects, it looks like dirt. IIRC I did two applications. YOU have to do it in stages though as obviously the wash will run downwards due to gravity, to you have to plan doing an area at a time taking account of where it will run down to (and watching for big droplets forming on the underside - these big drops will need to be siphoned off with a touch of tissue as they form to soak them up before they make a big round brown ring on the model). It's similar in final effect to what I do when I do an oil paint gunk wash (except with this Smoke wash yo DO NOT rub anything off), but because this model has so many tiny delicate parts, rubbing off oil paints would be the worst possible idea :)
Man, thats a beautiful build. Where did you get the sub light engine part just behind the rear grill? Really nice touch, I don't think I have ever seen that before. Thanks for sharing, all the best! Wakeman
+Wakeman Edwards Thanks! That's part of the kit :) Although there are a few inaccuracies, the Fine Molds kit is just about the most accurate kit out there. Or was, until it was discontinued.
+Sweet Betzy Well I made the wash myself, it's just 1 pot of Tamiya X-20A thinner with a couple of brushfuls of Tamiya Smoke X-19) added to it :) Smoke is readily available is any good model shop or online - just stick "tamiya smoke x-19" in Amazon and you'll be spoiled for choice ^_^
Amazing you really are talented thanks so much for the video and your tutorials that you're putting on. How many hours were involved in the creation of this model?
Thanks, glad you are enjoying them :) It came to about 105 hours in the end (over the space of around two months) , not including all the time sat around on my hands waiting for oil paints and washes to dry :). Of that, probably about 50-odd hours were the build, the rest painting and weathering.
Well, it has long since gone to the person that comissioned it, but as a very rough guess from memory I would say maybe 13-15 inches long by 10-12 inches wide? I really can't recall tbh.
+Modelmaking Guru Please do film the painting process or even a tiny bit of your weathering technique, the detail, masterful, love it... thanks for sharing... the soundtrack is cool too!!
On this actual build I used Humbrol Clear, but I never will again as it is utterly crap. Since then I have used Pledge Multi Surface Wax (also known as Future or Klear).
Sadly that will be a nope - AFAIK nowadays the only 1/72 Falcon kits are the Bandai Perfect Grade kit (usually around £350), the Revell Master Series Millennium Falcon (a re-badge of the old Fine Molds kit, also around £350) or the original Fine Molds Falcon kit (which is now discontinued and is only occasionally found on eBay for many hundreds of pounds as a rare out-of-production kit). The only budget alternatives are any of the other Revell kits, most of which are in random scales and generally of a VERY low standard, poor quality and horribly inaccurate).
Finished my modified DeAgostini a few weeks ago. I employed quite a few of your techniques. Let me know what you think. ruclips.net/video/3AnQsF1b1GU/видео.html
Did you hear that? That was the sound of my jaw bouncing off the floor again when it dropped. To see the falcon progress in that montage then, I now REALLY appreciate how much work you did! And how much I need to catch up... Thanks for the inspirado again dude, I really enjoyed following this one!!!
Cheers! You may require several pairs of modelmaking trousers.
...and shirts...and socks...bow tie? Hmmm...
helgan35 Bow ties are cool.
Didn't hear no jaw drop but I sure hear the shitty fucking music playing !
This video has been TRANSCENDENT! Thank you so much!
Thank you :)
Urgent question: I recently purchased the FineMolds 1/72 Falcon online- but the scammers who sold it did not include the bottom half of the Falcon! ( They gave me duplicate top halves instead.) Now I know why it was so cheap ($125) Wondering (hoping)
I can do some surgery and use the MPC bottom half and graft / sculpt/ merge it onto the FineMolds top half. Possible?! Your opinion please. Thank you!
Oh no! That sucks utterly, is there no way you can claw back your payments? Definitely file a claim to try to if you can. Unless it was a bank transfer, you can usually get Paypal etc. payments back if you file a claim.
I honestly have no idea if you could merge those two, I don't even know if the old MPC hull would even be the same scale. The FM Falcons were based on the actual studio models, whereas the MPC ones were just kind of made up based on design drawings and pulled out of someone's ass, so I don't even know how accurate the proportions of the various sections would be and if any of it would line up, tbh. I don't think it would be impossible, but I can't imagine how much work that might be. Maybe it might be better to use one of the crappy modern Revell 1/72 Falcon kits instead (the cheap ones, not the £300 one). Those are still utter ass but might be a little closer in rough shape and size than the old MPC ones. As there's no other real option I can think of (other than writing it all off as a learning experience as to where to buy stuff from), I'd say give it a go, there's not really much to lose.
Also, it would be worth joining the Modelmaker's Boomhut and telling your story in there, both as a cautionary tale to members and also in the hope that one of the 4000 folks in there may be able to offer more helpful advice - some of them are crazy skilled ^_^ facebook.com/groups/modelboomhut/
Just a word: Wonderful!
Thank you :)
Nice vid. Just a question, how much thinner do you use when mixing paints or for spraying. If any at all? I'm new to this
Aha, the age old question :)
Truth be told. I have no idea ^_^ I don't stick to any hard and fast formula. Tamiya paints are quite airbrushable without being thinned, for most colours, but if I feel the need or want to make the paint I have last longer I will add between 5-7 drops (from a dropper) of Tamiya X-20a thinner to a two-thirds full airbrush paint cup (and I have no idea what size my paint cup is). if you're not sure, just try spraying neat onto a scrap of plastic or a scrappy model you don't care about. If you have uneven flow or splatteriness try adding a few drops to see if that helps.
I'd love to see if Bandai can top the FM kit now that they have the licence - by the looks of things they'll have a tough job.
So far the only larger ship on the release schedule is Slave 1 but they're doing that in 1/144
5ynthesizerpatel I can't wait either, having just gotten into Bandai Gunpla kits I am REALLY looking forward to a snap-fit Falcon to their usual standard. As long as it is at least 1/72 scale (although even bigger would be better)
Also "Look Around You" FTW ^_^
Modelmaking Guru
I'm putting an outside bet on them skipping 1/72 altogether and going for 1/48 .... or bigger.
Even if they don't it's no disaster - the rumour is that Revell USA have bought the Finemolds moulds and will be selling them under the Revell Master Series brand
Oh God. Revell. Really? Like, Revell "we make the WORST model kits in the whole world and don't you believe otherwise"? . Ugh. I'm sure they'll totally screw that up then, even with someone else's moulds. That's like the worst thing ever.
Modelmaking guru One more quick question, did you do a pin wash or a slather wash
+Sweet Betzy On this build, I guess you could say it was a slather wash - 1 pot of Tamiya thinner with a few brushfuls of Tamiya Smoke added to make a wash, brushed liberally and without thought all over the model, everywhere. Then it is simply left alone to dry (takes a few hours, or you can carefully speed things up with a hairdryer from a distance). It collects in recesses like a pin wash but also tints the hull overall, making it a little warmer. And where it collects, it looks like dirt. IIRC I did two applications. YOU have to do it in stages though as obviously the wash will run downwards due to gravity, to you have to plan doing an area at a time taking account of where it will run down to (and watching for big droplets forming on the underside - these big drops will need to be siphoned off with a touch of tissue as they form to soak them up before they make a big round brown ring on the model).
It's similar in final effect to what I do when I do an oil paint gunk wash (except with this Smoke wash yo DO NOT rub anything off), but because this model has so many tiny delicate parts, rubbing off oil paints would be the worst possible idea :)
Man, thats a beautiful build. Where did you get the sub light engine part just behind the rear grill? Really nice touch, I don't think I have ever seen that before. Thanks for sharing, all the best!
Wakeman
+Wakeman Edwards Thanks!
That's part of the kit :) Although there are a few inaccuracies, the Fine Molds kit is just about the most accurate kit out there. Or was, until it was discontinued.
Hey modelmaking Guru where did you get that tamiya smoke wash. I cant find it anywhere
+Sweet Betzy Well I made the wash myself, it's just 1 pot of Tamiya X-20A thinner with a couple of brushfuls of Tamiya Smoke X-19) added to it :)
Smoke is readily available is any good model shop or online - just stick "tamiya smoke x-19" in Amazon and you'll be spoiled for choice ^_^
+Modelmaking Guru Ahh thanks so much, keep up the great videos
My pleasure :)
Amazing you really are talented thanks so much for the video and your tutorials that you're putting on. How many hours were involved in the creation of this model?
Thanks, glad you are enjoying them :)
It came to about 105 hours in the end (over the space of around two months) , not including all the time sat around on my hands waiting for oil paints and washes to dry :). Of that, probably about 50-odd hours were the build, the rest painting and weathering.
incredible! in a 1/72 scale what are its dimensions?
Well, it has long since gone to the person that comissioned it, but as a very rough guess from memory I would say maybe 13-15 inches long by 10-12 inches wide? I really can't recall tbh.
Wow, beautiful!!!
+rasta_nz Thank you! I have another one in my commission queue for next year, so I might film the painting process. We'll see ^_^
+Modelmaking Guru Please do film the painting process or even a tiny bit of your weathering technique, the detail, masterful, love it... thanks for sharing... the soundtrack is cool too!!
Thanks, I will do :)
Bravo Sir, bravo.
Thank you! :)
What product do you use for the gloss cote?
On this actual build I used Humbrol Clear, but I never will again as it is utterly crap. Since then I have used Pledge Multi Surface Wax (also known as Future or Klear).
Cheapest of all the 3 1/72 models! Nice detail! But Bandai is still the best for details!
Absolutely, Bandai is totally the most accurate as they had the best access to the actual studio models, more than anyone else ^_^
hi i am inertersed in a 1/72 scale can you buy them for around $90
Sadly that will be a nope - AFAIK nowadays the only 1/72 Falcon kits are the Bandai Perfect Grade kit (usually around £350), the Revell Master Series Millennium Falcon (a re-badge of the old Fine Molds kit, also around £350) or the original Fine Molds Falcon kit (which is now discontinued and is only occasionally found on eBay for many hundreds of pounds as a rare out-of-production kit). The only budget alternatives are any of the other Revell kits, most of which are in random scales and generally of a VERY low standard, poor quality and horribly inaccurate).
Finished my modified DeAgostini a few weeks ago. I employed quite a few of your techniques. Let me know what you think.
ruclips.net/video/3AnQsF1b1GU/видео.html
Awesome, outstanding work ^_^
i do hope you got paid over $1000 for your work, if not you better invoice them for remaining $
I never divulge final commission prices, but you are not far off ^_^