my cech03 backward ps3 had the jet engine fan, so even with new thermal paste was the same,so in desperation i decided to de-lid the beast. However upon fumbling with the cpu lid,i knock over 2 very small smd,near the cpu, so tiny i didn't believe i manage to solder back, and with nothing to loose i use the screwdriver method to rsx and worked ,after heating the lid with hot air gun. i did solder back the smd,and amazingly it works!
In my country technician delid ps3 with pallet knife little bit sharpening. Because the angle is perfect for cutting the glue without scratch the chip inside. And dont glued it back after you open it,for easy maintenance. I repaste inside with MX4,outside with cheap thermal paste. You can use 4 gram MX4 for 5 ps3 console.
Nice, that's a very clean RSX delid. I've seen people poking around in there randomly with metal tools and using too much force, causing all sorts of damage. In reality, heat is what does most of the heavy lifting. With enough heat, the cement adhesive will melt and will give out easily, just like in your example. The RSX is the component that benefits the most from a delid because it's the one that heats up the most and that is the most failure-prone. I will be attempting it on my second PS3 very soon.
just finished my first de lid on an a01 using your method. was pretty nervous clipping something with the blade but luck was on my side and everything went well. thanks for the vid.
Would you recommend putting some masking tape along with some thin foam around the cell in order to properly protect it? I feel like prepping the board this way would ensure that the risk involved is minimized as much as possible.
While I love this channel and respect all the work they’ve put into making these videos, I highly recommend thinking twice before doing a de-lid if your PS3 has YLOD. For years its been more of an unsubstantiated rumor that YLOD can be fixed by removing the IHS, when in reality its much more likely YLOD is caused by the RSX and/or cell failing. In other words there’s a good chance that you can try this nerve racking process only to find it did nothing to fix your console.
Appreciate you being a viewer. Thermal paste is not supposed to last 15 years+ which is the age of most ps3 consoles. There are also issues like overheating where the fan gets very loud and the system turns off and these issues are fixed by doing a delid and paste replacement. Cheers.
Did you glue it back again? Wich glue did you use? I have arctic mx-6 thermal compound is it good for ps3? N: Arctic recommends pea dot for mx-6 What do you think?
The heat is to soften the glue on the RAM chips. If this is not done before taking the IHS off you would need a lot more force to remove it which can cause damage.
@@sonichurosechu4ever a couple of drops of acetone to reduce the adhesive properties and the lid comes off as if it were glued to chewing gum. but it is a highly strong solvent, you only need a couple of drops directly on the blade
I bought a broken ps3 fat lady which turns off after couple seconds The seller told me he changed the thermal paste but iam pretty sure he didnt delid the ihs Could this be a reason why its shuts down ? The console can run the safety mode for couple minutes before its crashes
Love your channel, I inherited a 40 gb PS3 phat. It looked to already have one foot in the grave. It was filthy. I cracked it open and cleaned it. I didn't separate the mother board from the heat sink. I would like to crack it back open and apply thermal paste to the GPU and RSX. My question is when applying the IHS back in its place does adhesive on the mother board need to be removed and new aplied or will the IHS re-adhere back in its place with no additional adhesive.
is it worth risking delidding? or is it safer to just clean and top off thermal paste every other year or so? I'm about to clean it and reapply paste. just wondering if i should risk delidding
if your RSX heats up to above 67*C with 30-35% fan speed, then you have to delid RSX. Otherwise don't do it, delidding RSX seems and is simple, but it does microscopic damage under your chip, which later (maybe even year or two after) becomes YLOD
Did Sony not want people to change the thermal paste by adding silicon glue to the CPU so the console can overheat? I mean what is the purpose of the glue?
So i believe i may put new thermal compound on them tomorrow as i just put new thermal paste and it still sounds very loud so i might have to de-lid it and redo it
If I have a ps3 that overheats within 30 seconds of being turned on, do I delid the cpu or gpu, or both. I've already done the gpu but I don't have a razorblade and am not old enough to purchase one for the cpu. Also, do I need to apply thermal paste to the vram, I've removed all the glue.
@@iliketurtles50000 you will have to delid the CPU it seems by the symptoms you described. You do not need to apply paste to the RAM but you can if you want to.
I have a Ps3 from a buddy of mine that I'm helping fix up. A few days ago I opened it up, gave it a good cleaning & replaced the thermal paste on the top of the IHS, but didn't go under. I started it up and its still running extremely loud, and pretty hot, so I'm thinking I may have to do this. My question is, would I be able to place something like a light tape on top of the NEC tokins to protect them? I'm already apprehensive about using the razor blade, but if I can protect everything around it I should be good. Is this a good idea?
Can someone tell me what this means? Each of the Nec Capacitors have their own extra 0.5mm Thermal pads and rear side of the Cell CPU has a 1mm thermal pad. Thermal paste was replaced with Corsair XTM50 for best performance And CPU and RSX was also delided with same paste, New thermal Pads were were also added.
@@fasttechvideo Is there a way to rejuvenate the old thermal paste that's under the IHS plate. Reason for my question is due to the daunting task of lifting the lids off the chip. If the existing thermal paste can be rejuvenated via some type of saturation method would be a better choice.
I did a delid on my A01 a few months ago and it worked. It was no longer YLOD and I ran it multiple times even played uncharted on it until one day I came home from work and noticed it was blinking red and I go to power it on and it YLODs again. So it worked for a few months and now it’s YLOD again. Idk know what to do next. I don’t wanna change capacitors
Well, what Thermal Paste Brand did you use? I REALLY suggest to do a SYSCON Test to know exactly what the problem is. Also, we are not entirely sure what the problem was at the first place. Second and MORE important: Why your PLAYSTATION 3 had the blinking red light? Who was playing or what happened that the PS3 turned on and YLoD? Automatic Update or something similar?
@@Red05x I used Arctic MX-4 and yeah we don’t know why it was YLOD originally but the delid did fix it, if only for a few months. As far as why it was blinking red when I came home is anyone’s best guess. I live with only my wife and she doesn’t touch my things, she has no interest in it. I bought this as a “working” console on Facebook marketplace so I feel inclined to keep it and fix it but I don’t know if there’s a permanent fix to these consoles. I could change capacitors but I simply just don’t want to seeing as they’re sort of a pain
@@jeremy9474 Strange... Well, maybe the person who sold it to you did something to "fix" a YLoD before give it to you. The BEST to do is a SYSCON Diagnostic. I have 2 CECHA01 Systems that suddenly stopped working and a Syscon is the way to go. No one in my City do the job, unfortunately but if you found someone in yours, i suggest to check ti that way.
Deliding seems pointless and the thermal paste being dry is a non issue since the paste is essentially cemented in place. The risk involved is not worth it.
These systems are now 15 years old. Thermal paste does not last that long. Not to mention the multiple ‘loud fan then turns off’ PS3s we have fixed by de-lidding and replacing the paste
I think you could just use a paint knife and a razor blade instead? And avoids excess heat to these chips that have pretty terrible no lead solderballs that get brittle when they get hot and cool down a ton.
Some people use a painters knife I believe its safer to use a razor blade. Unfortunately you have to heat the RSX slightly to get its glue off but we recommend heating it no more than 400F as any higher would melt the solder (lead free solder melting point is 425F)
@@fasttechvideo ok one big thing, heating a chip at 400F for a minute is not enough time to melt solder, it can take way longer than that, and you don’t even need to do that much heat, just go 212F or 100c for a minute or 2 on the IHS and put light pressure under it with a small metal spudger with cardboard under it to protect the pcb and it will eventually pop right off, you do not need a ton of force, too much force like in this video can result in bga damage which then means more money down the drain
bro I want to use your video to de lid my ps3 , and i have plan to use liquid metal between the die and ihs and normal thermal paste ( maybe grizzly Kryonaut) on the ihs top to pervent damaging aluminum heat sink. Do you recommend this combination and is it more effective you think? Im curious to know your opinion. thank you.
Its the EEGS chip for ps2 compatibility but i would say generally speaking its not worth it since that chip does not run very hot. Maybe Ill do it in the future to show everyone how it’s done.
Sometimes my cecha ps3 went black screen when starting a ps2 game and stuck there the only option is to turn it off(not always black screen) can someone tell me why this happened? Edit: now it booted a ps2 games no problem after I updated it to 4.90
@@fasttechvideo it can even be an RSX issue if it’s not communicating correctly then some functions can work and others won’t some that freeze ps3 games on hdmi don’t freeze on av due to it not having to use all the functions/processing power of the chip
You must have used a razor that was too thin or not the right size. I bet you didn’t buy our kit and used random tools instead now you’re blaming me. I dont think so.
@@fasttechvideo no offence double jointed looks like it hurts... ever see #TheWiz ? When the evil witch's fingers roll up backwards? That was like the visual equivalent to fingernails on a chalkboard 😱
@@fasttechvideo ah ok, I’m going to de-lid my backwards compatible one as it shuts off after 30 seconds. When I did a tear down I discovered someone had used copper ease as thermal paste, however, they did upgrade it to a 19 blade fan.
![Yeat & Summrs - GO2WORK [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NEFEwfPcXRA/mqdefault.jpg)
👉 Want us to De-Lid your PS3 for you? Get Service Here: www.fasttechstore.com/ps3/p/ps3-de-lid-ihs-removal-service
👉 DIY PS3 IHS Removal Kit: www.fasttechstore.com/tools/ps3-ihs-removal-kit
👉 Heatgun: www.fasttechstore.com/tools/wagner-ht4500-heatgun
👉 Thermal Paste: www.fasttechstore.com/tools/thermal-grizzly-kryonaut-thermal-paste-1g
👉 Liquid Metal: www.fasttechstore.com/tools/thermal-grizzly-conductonaut-thermal-grease-1-gram-set
👉 Fasttech Pro Autokit: www.fasttechstore.com/tools/fasttech-pro-auto-kit
👉 Fasttech Pro Toolkit: www.fasttechstore.com/tools/fasttech-electronics-repair-toolkit
👉 Thermal Paste (2g for one time use): www.fasttechstore.com/tools/thermal-grizzly-kryonaut-extreme-2g
👉 Thermal Paste (111g for Shops): www.fasttechstore.com/tools/thermal-grizzly-kryonaut-extreme-thermal-compound
PS3 CECHAXX Parts:
👉 PS3 CECHAXX Mainboard + Logic Board: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/ps3-cechaxx-mainboard-disc-drive-logic-board-cok-001
👉 Hard Drive: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/1-tb-ssd-hybrid-25-hard-drive
👉 PS3 Casing: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-models-a-b-c-e-shell
👉 Disc Drive: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/kes-400-blu-ray-disc-drive
👉 Disc Drive Data Cable: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-blu-ray-drive-data-cable
👉 Disc Drive Power Cable: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-blu-ray-drive-power-cable
👉 Disc Drive Logic Board (BMD-001): www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/bmd-001-disc-drive-logic-board
👉 Memory Board: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-models-a-c-e-memory-board
👉 Power Supply: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/aps-226-power-supply
👉 Network Adapter: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-model-a-c-e-wireless-board
👉 Antenna: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-wi-fi-antenna
👉 Power/Eject Board: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-models-a-b-c-e-control-board
👉 Fan & Heatsink Assembly: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-models-a-b-c-e-heat-sink
👉 Heatsink Clamps and Screws: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts/sony-playstation-3-heat-sink-clamps
👉 Cooling Fan: www.fasttechstore.com/playstation-3-parts?category=Fan
👉 Thermal Paste: www.fasttechstore.com/tools/thermal-grizzly-kryonaut-thermal-grease-paste-111-grams
👉 Compressed Air Can: www.fasttechstore.com/tools/disposable-compressed-air-duster-35-oz
Other PS3 Videos:
▶PS3 CECHA01/E01 Thermal Paste Replacement: ruclips.net/video/05SxgyBkBOk/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
▶PS3 CECHE01/A01 Repair Guide: ruclips.net/video/ilzqlX_MDmQ/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
▶PS3 CPU AND GPU DE-LID GUIDE: ruclips.net/video/GzMmi7F65wQ/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
▶PS3 CECHG Repair Guide: ruclips.net/video/GgOYFO9Pdss/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
▶PS3 CECHH Repair Guide: ruclips.net/video/BDC1O8mYZZc/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
▶PS3 Slim 2000 Repair Guide: ruclips.net/video/S-ewz35fOLY/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
▶PS3 Slim 3000 Repair Guide:ruclips.net/video/ay7GYYMjodQ/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
▶PS3 Super Slim Repair Guide: ruclips.net/video/6a9UM_S1T64/видео.html
▶PS3 YLOD Repair Guide: ruclips.net/video/uAWpqW1HCmo/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
▶PS3 Controller Ghosting Fix: ruclips.net/video/lMQouNRR018/видео.html&ab_channel=fasttech
👉Need Help? FaceTime/Zoom Video Call Me: www.fasttech.ca/online-consultation
👉GET REPAIR SERVICE FOR YOUR DEVICE: www.fasttech.ca/electronics-repair
▶ Want us to fix your device for you? Just order the Fasttech Repair Box to send us your device by using this link: www.fasttech.ca/repair/repair-box
👉Business Social Media:
Twitter: twitter.com/FasttechCA
Instagram: instagram.com/fasttech.store
Facebook: facebook.com/fasttechy
👉Follow me on Social Media:
VLOG CHANNEL: ruclips.net/channel/UCF2IPXKRX5ctN9td1rhkzHg
Instagram: instagram.com/youngtechg
Twitter: twitter.com/Shehroz
my cech03 backward ps3 had the jet engine fan, so even with new thermal paste was the same,so in desperation i decided to de-lid the beast. However upon fumbling with the cpu lid,i knock over 2 very small smd,near the cpu, so tiny i didn't believe i manage to solder back, and with nothing to loose i use the screwdriver method to rsx and worked ,after heating the lid with hot air gun. i did solder back the smd,and amazingly it works!
Of course it works. Why would you ever doubt me 😊
In my country technician delid ps3 with pallet knife little bit sharpening.
Because the angle is perfect for cutting the glue without scratch the chip inside.
And dont glued it back after you open it,for easy maintenance.
I repaste inside with MX4,outside with cheap thermal paste.
You can use 4 gram MX4 for 5 ps3 console.
Thanks for your comment
Nice, that's a very clean RSX delid. I've seen people poking around in there randomly with metal tools and using too much force, causing all sorts of damage. In reality, heat is what does most of the heavy lifting. With enough heat, the cement adhesive will melt and will give out easily, just like in your example. The RSX is the component that benefits the most from a delid because it's the one that heats up the most and that is the most failure-prone. I will be attempting it on my second PS3 very soon.
@@CorruptedDogg you are correct sir and thanks for you comment. Much appreciated
Thank you so much. This video made so much easier. The cardboard and flat head trick is amazing!!!
You’re welcome please like the video and subscribe to help us back
just finished my first de lid on an a01 using your method. was pretty nervous clipping something with the blade but luck was on my side and everything went well. thanks for the vid.
Thanks so much for the feedback. 😊
Please like the video and subscribe
Would you recommend putting some masking tape along with some thin foam around the cell in order to properly protect it? I feel like prepping the board this way would ensure that the risk involved is minimized as much as possible.
Polyimide tape or electrical tape will work
Muy buen trabajo, yo tengo una ps3 con ylod, que es mejor reflow, reballing o cambiar pasta en CELL y RSX? Gracias
I just bought a fully delidded CECHE01 for 199.99. Now I understand why the price was 199.99 lol.
Thats a good deal actually for a de-lidded system. I have seen non refurbs go for more
For example: DKoldies
While I love this channel and respect all the work they’ve put into making these videos, I highly recommend thinking twice before doing a de-lid if your PS3 has YLOD. For years its been more of an unsubstantiated rumor that YLOD can be fixed by removing the IHS, when in reality its much more likely YLOD is caused by the RSX and/or cell failing. In other words there’s a good chance that you can try this nerve racking process only to find it did nothing to fix your console.
There are other reasons for delid...
Appreciate you being a viewer. Thermal paste is not supposed to last 15 years+ which is the age of most ps3 consoles. There are also issues like overheating where the fan gets very loud and the system turns off and these issues are fixed by doing a delid and paste replacement. Cheers.
Did you glue it back again? Wich glue did you use?
I have arctic mx-6 thermal compound is it good for ps3? N: Arctic recommends pea dot for mx-6
What do you think?
@@jurgen9071 no I didn’t glue it back on and I don’t recommend you do that
1. No need to heat
2. Potentially damage components / warp board.
3. Use a blade round the corners only gently
4. Apply new paste. 👍
The heat is to soften the glue on the RAM chips. If this is not done before taking the IHS off you would need a lot more force to remove it which can cause damage.
Используйте ацетон для снятия CELL. Ацетон растворяет силикон, всего пара капель и крышка снимается очень легко.
I am going to give it a try. Thanks for your comment.
Really ? So you don't even need the knife ? Or it just makes it easier ?
@@sonichurosechu4ever a couple of drops of acetone to reduce the adhesive properties and the lid comes off as if it were glued to chewing gum. but it is a highly strong solvent, you only need a couple of drops directly on the blade
I bought a broken ps3 fat lady which turns off after couple seconds
The seller told me he changed the thermal paste but iam pretty sure he didnt delid the ihs
Could this be a reason why its shuts down ?
The console can run the safety mode for couple minutes before its crashes
@@KingMkzed yes it needs a DE LID
Love your channel, I inherited a 40 gb PS3 phat. It looked to already have one foot in the grave. It was filthy. I cracked it open and cleaned it. I didn't separate the mother board from the heat sink. I would like to crack it back open and apply thermal paste to the GPU and RSX. My question is when applying the IHS back in its place does adhesive on the mother board need to be removed and new aplied or will the IHS re-adhere back in its place with no additional adhesive.
You dont have to reapply the adhesive.
is it worth risking delidding? or is it safer to just clean and top off thermal paste every other year or so? I'm about to clean it and reapply paste. just wondering if i should risk delidding
In my experience if the fan is loud changing the paste without A delid only helps a little the main problem is the paste under the ihs
Depends on how loud your fan is running but eventually this will have to be done.
if your RSX heats up to above 67*C with 30-35% fan speed, then you have to delid RSX. Otherwise don't do it, delidding RSX seems and is simple, but it does microscopic damage under your chip, which later (maybe even year or two after) becomes YLOD
@@Dorianek8why is it caused by deliding(microscoping problem)
@fasttechvideo Are the main boards you sell on your website refurbished with new thermal past under the IHS?
No they are not delidded but we can perform that service prior to shipment
where is isopropyl alcohol available
Here: www.fasttech.ca/tools/p/isopropyl-alcohol
Local drug store man. It's rubbing alcohol.
Did Sony not want people to change the thermal paste by adding silicon glue to the CPU so the console can overheat? I mean what is the purpose of the glue?
@@redfirefox3568 it moronic to be frank. Terrible design choice considering there is a chance one can destroy the console attempting this
So i believe i may put new thermal compound on them tomorrow as i just put new thermal paste and it still sounds very loud so i might have to de-lid it and redo it
@@ChaceHagan-jt6kf good luck let me know how it goes
If you change from 90nm RSX to 40nm from a super slim, don't you need a firmware to get it working?
@@dreamer_prince900 no firmware changes needed but since the 40nm runs on a lower voltage there needs to be modifications made to the board
Should i try this...i bought all the tools...im trying the heat gun and painters knife; sharpened method....
If your Ps3 is running loud, then yes
@@fasttechvideo not too loud. Might just thermal and re pad the thing
@@paulb1802 👍🏽
If I have a ps3 that overheats within 30 seconds of being turned on, do I delid the cpu or gpu, or both.
I've already done the gpu but I don't have a razorblade and am not old enough to purchase one for the cpu.
Also, do I need to apply thermal paste to the vram, I've removed all the glue.
@@iliketurtles50000 you will have to delid the CPU it seems by the symptoms you described. You do not need to apply paste to the RAM but you can if you want to.
I have a Ps3 from a buddy of mine that I'm helping fix up. A few days ago I opened it up, gave it a good cleaning & replaced the thermal paste on the top of the IHS, but didn't go under. I started it up and its still running extremely loud, and pretty hot, so I'm thinking I may have to do this. My question is, would I be able to place something like a light tape on top of the NEC tokins to protect them? I'm already apprehensive about using the razor blade, but if I can protect everything around it I should be good. Is this a good idea?
Sure you can use electrical tape to protect the surrounding components. Good luck
Can someone tell me what this means?
Each of the Nec Capacitors have their own extra 0.5mm Thermal pads and rear side of the Cell CPU has a 1mm thermal pad.
Thermal paste was replaced with Corsair XTM50 for best performance And CPU and RSX was also delided with same paste, New thermal Pads were were also added.
Some units have this although it is rare
Are there liquids that can rejuvenate the old flux instead of lifting the IHS plate?
I dont understand your question
@@fasttechvideo Is there a way to rejuvenate the old thermal paste that's under the IHS plate. Reason for my question is due to the daunting task of lifting the lids off the chip. If the existing thermal paste can be rejuvenated via some type of saturation method would be a better choice.
@@jkucukov no there is no way to rejuvenate the old paste
I did a delid on my A01 a few months ago and it worked. It was no longer YLOD and I ran it multiple times even played uncharted on it until one day I came home from work and noticed it was blinking red and I go to power it on and it YLODs again. So it worked for a few months and now it’s YLOD again. Idk know what to do next. I don’t wanna change capacitors
Well, what Thermal Paste Brand did you use? I REALLY suggest to do a SYSCON Test to know exactly what the problem is. Also, we are not entirely sure what the problem was at the first place. Second and MORE important: Why your PLAYSTATION 3 had the blinking red light? Who was playing or what happened that the PS3 turned on and YLoD? Automatic Update or something similar?
@@Red05x I used Arctic MX-4 and yeah we don’t know why it was YLOD originally but the delid did fix it, if only for a few months. As far as why it was blinking red when I came home is anyone’s best guess. I live with only my wife and she doesn’t touch my things, she has no interest in it. I bought this as a “working” console on Facebook marketplace so I feel inclined to keep it and fix it but I don’t know if there’s a permanent fix to these consoles. I could change capacitors but I simply just don’t want to seeing as they’re sort of a pain
@@jeremy9474 Strange... Well, maybe the person who sold it to you did something to "fix" a YLoD before give it to you. The BEST to do is a SYSCON Diagnostic. I have 2 CECHA01 Systems that suddenly stopped working and a Syscon is the way to go. No one in my City do the job, unfortunately but if you found someone in yours, i suggest to check ti that way.
Wouldn't it be possible to protect those NEC Tokens with a thin piece of cardboard?
Yes probably not a bad idea. Thanks for the comment.
Deliding seems pointless and the thermal paste being dry is a non issue since the paste is essentially cemented in place. The risk involved is not worth it.
These systems are now 15 years old. Thermal paste does not last that long. Not to mention the multiple ‘loud fan then turns off’ PS3s we have fixed by de-lidding and replacing the paste
i Had console after good clean and new thermal paste still overheating in few minutes.
I think you could just use a paint knife and a razor blade instead?
And avoids excess heat to these chips that have pretty terrible no lead solderballs that get brittle when they get hot and cool down a ton.
Some people use a painters knife I believe its safer to use a razor blade. Unfortunately you have to heat the RSX slightly to get its glue off but we recommend heating it no more than 400F as any higher would melt the solder (lead free solder melting point is 425F)
@@fasttechvideo ok one big thing, heating a chip at 400F for a minute is not enough time to melt solder, it can take way longer than that, and you don’t even need to do that much heat, just go 212F or 100c for a minute or 2 on the IHS and put light pressure under it with a small metal spudger with cardboard under it to protect the pcb and it will eventually pop right off, you do not need a ton of force, too much force like in this video can result in bga damage which then means more money down the drain
subscribed, greetings from mexico bro
Gracias amigo
bro I want to use your video to de lid my ps3 , and i have plan to use liquid metal between the die and ihs and normal thermal paste ( maybe grizzly Kryonaut) on the ihs top to pervent damaging aluminum heat sink. Do you recommend this combination and is it more effective you think? Im curious to know your opinion. thank you.
no. just use really good thermal paste, liquid metal is too high risk in ps3 it wasnt designed for it, it can seep out over time and kill the ps3
@@20EsOfficialok but like everyone shows how to de lid it how tf do you put it back on ??
Yes I recommend this combo as Ive used it before and works great
man that looks like such a hassle. you must charge a fortune for these refurbed consoles. and deservedly so.
We charge what DK oldies charges but we actually do all the work required to refurbish these systems.
Not much of a hassle at all. The fact he uses a metal tool to pry open is absolutely dangerous
should i do the pea drop method or spread under the lid for the thermal paste? and on top for that matter as well
I recommend spreading but some people use the pea drop method. The only way to ensure you got an even spread is to spread it yourself.
What about that 3rd chip is it worth doing? And what is it?
Nope. Its for ps2 games which this motherboard is from backwards compatible
Its the EEGS chip for ps2 compatibility but i would say generally speaking its not worth it since that chip does not run very hot. Maybe Ill do it in the future to show everyone how it’s done.
@@fasttechvideo if you delid it u will probably scratch it or break the chip
Do you need to Re glue them down and if so what type of glue
No. I dont recommend that.
IS it possible to de-lid and have the possibility to use console after this?
Yes the subject ps3 is still being used today 😊
@@fasttechvideo Great! But your de-liding looks very dangerous((
@@fasttechvideo Additional question: Did you try PTM on PS3 instead of liquid metal? Does it work good enough?
@@andreiivanchykau2564 What is PTM? Do you mean thermal paste? Yes I have and I have to say it works almost just as well.
@@fasttechvideo ptm 7950
Sometimes my cecha ps3 went black screen when starting a ps2 game and stuck there the only option is to turn it off(not always black screen) can someone tell me why this happened?
Edit: now it booted a ps2 games no problem after I updated it to 4.90
It could be a laser issue or it could be a eegs chip issue
Does it play dvd movies?
@@fasttechvideo it can even be an RSX issue if it’s not communicating correctly then some functions can work and others won’t some that freeze ps3 games on hdmi don’t freeze on av due to it not having to use all the functions/processing power of the chip
@@fasttechvideo update: the issue is completely fixed after I updated the console to 4.90
@@fasttechvideo I don’t have a dvd movies so I don’t know about that
Can you use dental floss? i heard you can go all the way even thorugh the Chip itself and nothing mostly goes wrong
Yes I have heard of people using floss.
Using a razorblade is a stupid idea i bricked my console thanks to you i scratched the mother board
You must have used a razor that was too thin or not the right size. I bet you didn’t buy our kit and used random tools instead now you’re blaming me. I dont think so.
DO NOT DO THIS!!!! your ihs is going to come off with the memory chips attached, ask me how i know!
Im sorry to hear that. Did you heat the chip prior?
How do i contact your setvice ?
Email service@fasttech.ca
Or call 1(888)7447372
I promise you, Liquid Metal is not a good idea for this application.
As long as you keep the ps3 laying flat and its not being moved around constantly it should be fine. Thanks for your comment
@@fasttechvideo yes I see your point. It’s to be hoped it doesn’t get moved
i did this but it doesn't work
What part doesn't work?
@@fasttechvideo come up with relight when i try turn on
@@markhammond147 ylod issue possibly. Check syscon for error codes
@@fasttechvideo how can you if you can't turn it on
@@markhammond147 google syscon ps3
Bro, your Fingers😱
What about them?
@@fasttechvideo no offence double jointed looks like it hurts... ever see #TheWiz ?
When the evil witch's fingers roll up backwards?
That was like the visual equivalent to fingernails on a chalkboard 😱
@@lopony7944 oh yes, a viewer had pointed that out to me in 2018. Never realized I had double jointed fingers till I started making these videos 😂
all ps3 delid in youtube full fake
@@fjucsorfrenky852 lol
Que version es esa ps3 y otro asunto que pegamento le pongo después de despegar
That is a CECH A system. You do not need to reapply the glue and I advise against it.
I promise you, Liquid Metal is not a good idea for this application.
I used it on my system for a while with no issues
@@fasttechvideo for a while? Ok so that makes me wonder why only for a while?
@@rorykelly8275 i ended up needing the board for a video then sold the board to a customer so it had to be removed
@@fasttechvideo ah ok, I’m going to de-lid my backwards compatible one as it shuts off after 30 seconds. When I did a tear down I discovered someone had used copper ease as thermal paste, however, they did upgrade it to a 19 blade fan.