Mate use a flanged nut with built in locking lugs on the mating surface.. it allows you to adjust by click.. also lock the top stop nuts down to help prevent up and down movement of the quill. My press is an older delta but almost exactly the same design as yours and can handle aluminum no problem. Another thing to look in to is picking up some taper roller bearings and adding an MT to ER20 collet. Good luck!
I’ve milled steel, bronze and brass on my bench drill - albeit a bit larger and more heavily built than your machine, using an identical compound vice. Your machine should have a quill clamp, which locks the spindle in position - is it missing ? The drill spindle bearings are designed for end load, not the radial or side loads associated with milling, so you have to be careful and take small cuts to minimise the loading. Also, use a small end mill to minimise the loading on the spindle bearings. Use the depth stop to give you fine depth of cut adjustment - a fraction of a turn gives a few thousandth of an inch feed - you can be surprisingly accurate with it ! Make sure that the slideway gib strips are properly adjusted to take up all play in the slideways, and bolt it firmly to the drill press table, otherwise you will get chatter and poor finish. Make sure that the milling cutter is really sharp - a blunt cutter will also cause chatter and poor finish. The vice can also be used for precisely setting out drilled holes With patience, you can achieve some excellent work and when you have nothing else, it may just save the day !
Naw these style of presses have omitted them completely from the design. (regardless of company its made by they are all similar chinese made heads) I just picked mine up yesterday used and with some small mods it takes aluminum down alright, with more mods it will be a little champ.
Is it possible to mill an AR15 receiver with a drill press with an end mill bit? I’m only asking because I have a drill press almost like that one and I believe it has 5 speed settings.
I agree, drill presses are not designed for milling, at the very least you need to use a collet chuck and secure the taper so it can't drop out. But looking at this video I can see far too much flexing in just about every aspect, milling requires rigidity.
Why couldn’t you use that collar you made for the top and move the adjusting nut down lower? It turned out good tho. I’ve been thinking of getting one of these things.
Just an heads up, it's not so hakuna matata when the end mill or the chuck gets loose and fly to the end of the workshop. Or worse get stuck in your hand. I'm talking from experience.
*Bought as a gift for my son and his second grade son to use on a Pinewood Derby car. Wanted something relatively safe and able to be packed away when not in use. Worked well. **MyBest.Tools** Easy to use and set up. Case provides good storage.*
Yeah there should be a bolt under the depth gauge knowing ryobi they either didn't throw it in the box with your drill press or it was never there to begin with because of poor design, with Ryobi either is probable. You should've gone for the wen 12" variable speed drill press, I think it's only $50 more and you don't have to deal with changing belts just to change the speed
Before you get someone HURT delete this video and STOP WATCHING ADAM SAVAGE. I loved him in Myth Busters but some of the garbage he's been putting lately has put me right off. His effort with the big brass bolt was absurd and he was lucky not to be seriously hurt and showed he needs to go back to school before posting anything else. There are REAL machinists on RUclips and they keep pointing out NOT TO DO MILLING in a DRILL PRESS the spindles are NOT designed for the side loads and drill chucks are NOT designed for side loads. Its the fundamental difference between a Drill Press spindle and a mill spindle - side loads. Occasionally you will see people like Joe Pieczynski using an end mill in a drill chuck *but they state very clearly its only for vertical operations like spot facing a surface for a nut or bolt. Yes people do this and its dangerous as you can get a cutter break (particularly small diameter end mills) and bits of flying metal are NOT GOOD. I'm an engineer who has done a lot of automation and made many small brackets for sensors and parts for robot grippers. I was very fortunate to have toolmakers around helping me with that. By any stretch of the imagination Mills and Lathes are 2 of the most dangerous machines humanity has ever developed. They are magical and wonderful and without them we would not have the world we have *but they have no tolerance for disrespect.* For those interested in learning form some real properly trained machinists try any from this list and its brief and it could be far longer. Joe Pieczynski -> ruclips.net/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w Stefan Gotteswinter -> ruclips.net/channel/UCY8gSLTqvs38bR9X061jFWw Robin Renzetti - > ruclips.net/channel/UCn4U3aEr6L2nLe1m_3as6JQ Tom Lipton -> ruclips.net/user/oxtoolco Adam Booth -> ruclips.net/user/Abom79 Don Bailey -> ruclips.net/user/SuburbanToolInc
Thanks. This is awesome and you are absolutely right. I wouldn’t try this with anything other than the plastic I did it with. Definitely considering deleting. Thanks for the input!!
@@JeremiahDaws More than simply deleting would be replacing/updating with some warnings or clarifications or just do a "part 2" One thing that is very misunderstood by amateurs and hobbyists are how soft materials machine. I used to do a lot of aluminum sensor brackets. For me those extruded bars & shapes were like lego or mechano. *BUT* I had access to a real work shop with real tool makers present and they stressed on me a number of safety issues. No watches, no jewelry, eye protection and importantly *I you don't know ASK.* Aluminum is magic stuff but it can also gall up and clog the cutter and that can either wreck a part or break the cutter. Brass, Bronze, Copper and the 1000s of variations of each are notorious for cutters digging in and either wrecking parts or snapping cutters. Its why people use a lot of 2 flutes and fly cutters at high speed and WD40 to help avoid galling. I've bee watching a lot of stuff on these model steam engines and Joe Pie chimed in when he saw a few common mistakes. So one of his viewers sent him a kit and said show us all how to do it right. *BUT* If you compare what he does to others you have to understand he has a full professional shop with all the cool toys and most amateurs will never have some of what he has. So its worth watching the others to see how they get stuff done with more limited resources. In your case you don't have access to a mill and still have a part to make. Your solution is valid, but you need to be clear with all the amateurs out there that its also NOT IDEAL and HAS LIMITS. *The biggest limit is rigidity.* When you listen to the pros you keep hearing them talk about rigidity and how important it is. If you lookup Stefan Gotteswinter way back in his vids is one about why he swapped his lathes compound slide for a solid block to increase the rigidity. Robin Renzetti and Joe Piw mention doing the same. I just bought a lathe and that will be one of my first projects. I'll keep the compound slide for tapers but not much else. When you add a 2 axis table to a drill you don't have a very rigid system to start with and you're making it less rigid. And its all the bots of slop in the system that make for vibrations and movement that can ruin parts and break cutters. I'd suggest you look for a collet chuck to hold the cutters. Most drills have a Morse taper that can hold drills as well as chucks. You can get decent and reasonably cheap MT - ER collets off Banggood and Ebay, check for reviews so you don't get a crap one. Be careful what they have on the end (thread or tang) as you'll need one you can still get get out of your drill. If it has a thread look for the inserts that convert them to a tang - they just screw in.
@@JeremiahDaws Even milling plastic can cause the chuck to drop out at high speeds. It doesn't take much side load to wiggle it off the tapper. My friend and I tried this a few years ago and when the chuck fell out, it hit him and broke two ribs. We were only testing it out on wood too!
How do you keep the chuck from flying off? Drill presses don't have a draw bar... And I've heard horror stories of 500+ rpm Chuck and cutter jumping off and flying around the shop.
Yeah, that's way easier than having to spin the locking nut all the way up & down when you want to set/release the down position of the bit. And if you replace the screw with a bolt, you could expoy on a wheel to make it easier to tighten/loosen w/o a tool. I guess this technique is what helped you make your next project I saw on IG?
Did you not notice this is all out of focus...? Sorry, but if you can't be bothered to redo it when it is clearly wrong it makes me less likely to believe the rest of your information is any good...
your funny. your making improvements on the drill press in order to be able to mill. Immediately milling in order to complete improvement!
Mate use a flanged nut with built in locking lugs on the mating surface.. it allows you to adjust by click.. also lock the top stop nuts down to help prevent up and down movement of the quill. My press is an older delta but almost exactly the same design as yours and can handle aluminum no problem. Another thing to look in to is picking up some taper roller bearings and adding an MT to ER20 collet. Good luck!
I’ve milled steel, bronze and brass on my bench drill - albeit a bit larger and more heavily built than your machine, using an identical compound vice.
Your machine should have a quill clamp, which locks the spindle in position - is it missing ?
The drill spindle bearings are designed for end load, not the radial or side loads associated with milling, so you have to be careful and take small cuts to minimise the loading.
Also, use a small end mill to minimise the loading on the spindle bearings.
Use the depth stop to give you fine depth of cut adjustment - a fraction of a turn gives a few thousandth of an inch feed - you can be surprisingly accurate with it !
Make sure that the slideway gib strips are properly adjusted to take up all play in the slideways, and bolt it firmly to the drill press table, otherwise you will get chatter and poor finish.
Make sure that the milling cutter is really sharp - a blunt cutter will also cause chatter and poor finish.
The vice can also be used for precisely setting out drilled holes
With patience, you can achieve some excellent work and when you have nothing else, it may just save the day !
Naw these style of presses have omitted them completely from the design. (regardless of company its made by they are all similar chinese made heads)
I just picked mine up yesterday used and with some small mods it takes aluminum down alright, with more mods it will be a little champ.
Is it possible to mill an AR15 receiver with a drill press with an end mill bit? I’m only asking because I have a drill press almost like that one and I believe it has 5 speed settings.
The linked video shows why the posted video is VERY BAD and VERY DANGEROUS to try:
ruclips.net/video/Nm1C66yhkzI/видео.html
You could have used 2 additional bolts after unscrewing the rod. 1 for the measurement and one as a jam nut.
I agree, drill presses are not designed for milling, at the very least you need to use a collet chuck and secure the taper so it can't drop out. But looking at this video I can see far too much flexing in just about every aspect, milling requires rigidity.
The linked video shows why the posted video is VERY BAD and VERY DANGEROUS to try:
ruclips.net/video/Nm1C66yhkzI/видео.html
Could you send the link to that x y sliding vice? When u got the vice did u have any issues out the box?
You could have just used the two nuts on the depth rod to hold it where you wanted using the same method.
Wing nut bolt is easier instead of using a screwdriver, but cool beans!
Where’d you find the HD plastic?
Why couldn’t you use that collar you made for the top and move the adjusting nut down lower? It turned out good tho. I’ve been thinking of getting one of these things.
Just an heads up, it's not so hakuna matata when the end mill or the chuck gets loose and fly to the end of the workshop. Or worse get stuck in your hand. I'm talking from experience.
Yikes!
Nice video, thanks :)
*Bought as a gift for my son and his second grade son to use on a Pinewood Derby car. Wanted something relatively safe and able to be packed away when not in use. Worked well. **MyBest.Tools** Easy to use and set up. Case provides good storage.*
Nice video, but just add another screw down piece under the bar. Simple fix. My drill press already has it on both sides. It is a craftsman from 1986.
Why not just put the restricting nit underneath,
Nice job, looks good
Which cross vise did you buy? I bought a WEN, the same company as my drill press and it does not move very smoothly? Suggestions?
I picked that one up from Harbor freight.
strip it, clean it, regrease and rebuild it
The linked video shows why the posted video is VERY BAD and VERY DANGEROUS to try:
ruclips.net/video/Nm1C66yhkzI/видео.html
Nice work 👍
Jason Yannuccelli thanks!!!
Wait what about the taper of the chuck and that milling cam cause the chuck to fall out
not all end mills are tapered, just buy straight shank ones
@@sigsauersean The linked video shows why the posted video is VERY BAD and VERY DANGEROUS to try:
ruclips.net/video/Nm1C66yhkzI/видео.html
Yeah there should be a bolt under the depth gauge knowing ryobi they either didn't throw it in the box with your drill press or it was never there to begin with because of poor design, with Ryobi either is probable. You should've gone for the wen 12" variable speed drill press, I think it's only $50 more and you don't have to deal with changing belts just to change the speed
Kitne ka hai aur kaha se milenga plz bataiye
Before you get someone HURT delete this video and STOP WATCHING ADAM SAVAGE.
I loved him in Myth Busters but some of the garbage he's been putting lately has put me right off. His effort with the big brass bolt was absurd and he was lucky not to be seriously hurt and showed he needs to go back to school before posting anything else.
There are REAL machinists on RUclips and they keep pointing out NOT TO DO MILLING in a DRILL PRESS the spindles are NOT designed for the side loads and drill chucks are NOT designed for side loads. Its the fundamental difference between a Drill Press spindle and a mill spindle - side loads.
Occasionally you will see people like Joe Pieczynski using an end mill in a drill chuck *but they state very clearly its only for vertical operations like spot facing a surface for a nut or bolt.
Yes people do this and its dangerous as you can get a cutter break (particularly small diameter end mills) and bits of flying metal are NOT GOOD. I'm an engineer who has done a lot of automation and made many small brackets for sensors and parts for robot grippers. I was very fortunate to have toolmakers around helping me with that. By any stretch of the imagination Mills and Lathes are 2 of the most dangerous machines humanity has ever developed. They are magical and wonderful and without them we would not have the world we have *but they have no tolerance for disrespect.*
For those interested in learning form some real properly trained machinists try any from this list and its brief and it could be far longer.
Joe Pieczynski -> ruclips.net/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
Stefan Gotteswinter -> ruclips.net/channel/UCY8gSLTqvs38bR9X061jFWw
Robin Renzetti - > ruclips.net/channel/UCn4U3aEr6L2nLe1m_3as6JQ
Tom Lipton -> ruclips.net/user/oxtoolco
Adam Booth -> ruclips.net/user/Abom79
Don Bailey -> ruclips.net/user/SuburbanToolInc
Thanks. This is awesome and you are absolutely right. I wouldn’t try this with anything other than the plastic I did it with. Definitely considering deleting. Thanks for the input!!
@@JeremiahDaws More than simply deleting would be replacing/updating with some warnings or clarifications or just do a "part 2"
One thing that is very misunderstood by amateurs and hobbyists are how soft materials machine. I used to do a lot of aluminum sensor brackets. For me those extruded bars & shapes were like lego or mechano. *BUT* I had access to a real work shop with real tool makers present and they stressed on me a number of safety issues. No watches, no jewelry, eye protection and importantly *I you don't know ASK.*
Aluminum is magic stuff but it can also gall up and clog the cutter and that can either wreck a part or break the cutter. Brass, Bronze, Copper and the 1000s of variations of each are notorious for cutters digging in and either wrecking parts or snapping cutters. Its why people use a lot of 2 flutes and fly cutters at high speed and WD40 to help avoid galling.
I've bee watching a lot of stuff on these model steam engines and Joe Pie chimed in when he saw a few common mistakes. So one of his viewers sent him a kit and said show us all how to do it right. *BUT* If you compare what he does to others you have to understand he has a full professional shop with all the cool toys and most amateurs will never have some of what he has. So its worth watching the others to see how they get stuff done with more limited resources.
In your case you don't have access to a mill and still have a part to make. Your solution is valid, but you need to be clear with all the amateurs out there that its also NOT IDEAL and HAS LIMITS.
*The biggest limit is rigidity.* When you listen to the pros you keep hearing them talk about rigidity and how important it is. If you lookup Stefan Gotteswinter way back in his vids is one about why he swapped his lathes compound slide for a solid block to increase the rigidity. Robin Renzetti and Joe Piw mention doing the same. I just bought a lathe and that will be one of my first projects. I'll keep the compound slide for tapers but not much else.
When you add a 2 axis table to a drill you don't have a very rigid system to start with and you're making it less rigid. And its all the bots of slop in the system that make for vibrations and movement that can ruin parts and break cutters. I'd suggest you look for a collet chuck to hold the cutters. Most drills have a Morse taper that can hold drills as well as chucks. You can get decent and reasonably cheap MT - ER collets off Banggood and Ebay, check for reviews so you don't get a crap one. Be careful what they have on the end (thread or tang) as you'll need one you can still get get out of your drill. If it has a thread look for the inserts that convert them to a tang - they just screw in.
@@JeremiahDaws Even milling plastic can cause the chuck to drop out at high speeds. It doesn't take much side load to wiggle it off the tapper. My friend and I tried this a few years ago and when the chuck fell out, it hit him and broke two ribs. We were only testing it out on wood too!
yes u could get hurt so dont try anything new fuck that ill take a chuck to the eye before i am scared of living
How do you keep the chuck from flying off? Drill presses don't have a draw bar... And I've heard horror stories of 500+ rpm Chuck and cutter jumping off and flying around the shop.
Yeah, I firmly do not recommend doing this. Way too dangerous.
it can be done for almunium with smooth result? off course not same finished speed time with true milling machine. If it can be done worthed to do
The linked video shows why the posted video is VERY BAD and VERY DANGEROUS to try:
ruclips.net/video/Nm1C66yhkzI/видео.html
Yeah, that's way easier than having to spin the locking nut all the way up & down when you want to set/release the down position of the bit. And if you replace the screw with a bolt, you could expoy on a wheel to make it easier to tighten/loosen w/o a tool. I guess this technique is what helped you make your next project I saw on IG?
Why not just put 2 nuts on it? 😅
already did, your advice came late. lolz
Did you not notice this is all out of focus...?
Sorry, but if you can't be bothered to redo it when it is clearly wrong it makes me less likely to believe the rest of your information is any good...