Keep up the good work. I've watched all your vids over the years and built myself a 350 chev follow your engine building guidelines to the letter. 906 vortec heads all the standard machineing to block flat top pistons and so on. It's in my 70series landcruiser winch challenge truck here in New Zealand. The motor has run strong for five years now. Thanks heaps mate keep making vids
Great video.. just one small thing to add.. The ford Fe has the head bolts a good distance for the bore, a Windsor / clevo or SBC will go out for round ( I"ve seen .0025" ) if they have been honed with a plate. I'm sure you know this ...just not all the viewers
In a previous video, you stated no more flat tappet cam builds. I wanted to ask what the spring seat pressures were. Back in the 60's and later, factory springs in high performance engines had less than 100lbs seat pressure. Check the pressures of original springs from Chevy 302's, 350's, 427's and 454's. You'll be surprised how low they are. It's when you get into the high lifts, over .510", is when you get into trouble.
You didn't say so in your video, but I do hope that you are putting on aluminum heads and an aluminum intake manifold. Those archaic cast iron parts are heavy and are best used as wheel chocks for truck safety lanes.
@Myvintageiron7512 I am not saying that one cannot make power with a cast iron head. I am saying that one can usually make more power with an aluminum head. And one won't have to use an engine hoist to get it off and on the engine block in chassis either. Those days of wrestling with FE engines are over for me. )
And check it before you leave the machine shop ..make them show you . once you get it home it is YOURS .. I'm stuck with a messed up block I paid 550.00 in machine work that has bores out of spec and the surface finish of the deck looks like they used 36 grit on it and a MLS gasket will never seal on it the way it is . This is from a highly recommended machine shop in North Texas
I have found variation in bore sizes from top to bottom of .0002" (2 ten thousands) , I assume this is typical and not harmful. Your thoughts? P.S. 4.250" bore.
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You are a great teacher. That's rare
Keep up the good work. I've watched all your vids over the years and built myself a 350 chev follow your engine building guidelines to the letter. 906 vortec heads all the standard machineing to block flat top pistons and so on. It's in my 70series landcruiser winch challenge truck here in New Zealand. The motor has run strong for five years now. Thanks heaps mate keep making vids
Keepin the FE alive!!!
Thanks for all the videos and info
I have a stack of you vids i need to get around too watching. As always appreciate the knowledge. 👍
Yes to anything FE!
Thank you
Great video.. just one small thing to add.. The ford Fe has the head bolts a good distance for the bore, a Windsor / clevo or SBC will go out for round ( I"ve seen .0025" ) if they have been honed with a plate. I'm sure you know this ...just not all the viewers
Great explanation.
exelente informacion saludos
In a previous video, you stated no more flat tappet cam builds. I wanted to ask what the spring seat pressures were. Back in the 60's and later, factory springs in high performance engines had less than 100lbs seat pressure. Check the pressures of original springs from Chevy 302's, 350's, 427's and 454's. You'll be surprised how low they are. It's when you get into the high lifts, over .510", is when you get into trouble.
We have seen a ton of failures with stock cams and springs
Yes, I agree. People don't realize you can't let the engine sit and idle for long periods.@@Myvintageiron7512
Informative video thank mate
You didn't say so in your video, but I do hope that you are putting on aluminum heads and an aluminum intake manifold.
Those archaic cast iron parts are heavy and are best used as wheel chocks for truck safety lanes.
Actually we used C8 heads and an edelbrock intake this engine made over 500 LB FT of torque
@Myvintageiron7512 I am not saying that one cannot make power with a cast iron head. I am saying that one can usually make more power with an aluminum head.
And one won't have to use an engine hoist to get it off and on the engine block in chassis either.
Those days of wrestling with FE engines are over for me. )
And check it before you leave the machine shop ..make them show you . once you get it home it is YOURS .. I'm stuck with a messed up block I paid 550.00 in machine work that has bores out of spec and the surface finish of the deck looks like they used 36 grit on it and a MLS gasket will never seal on it the way it is . This is from a highly recommended machine shop in North Texas
That's sucks sorry to hear that.
I have found variation in bore sizes from top to bottom of .0002" (2 ten thousands) , I assume this is typical and not harmful. Your thoughts? P.S. 4.250" bore.
.0002 is no issue