The BMW stealership quoted me $1200 to do this job. Wanted $270 for the part. Found the same OEM part online for $160. Install was easy. Saved a lot of money with the DIY approach. Nice video! Helped to clarify the barrel lock mechanism nicely. Cheers!
Thank you! I used this on my passenger side door on 2013 BMW 328i Sedan. I bought the replacement from Dorman on Amazon. NOTE: it’s not necessary to remove the door handle keyhole piece if your door doesn’t have a physical keyhole in that piece. Just skip it.
Excellent video Simple I make a remark not a critic The cables running around the actuator mud out in the proper clips in the aviator There is a big chance when rolling down the glass that get tangle Keep doing videos you are good Dr Diaz
Thanks for the video! Made it a lot easier to tackle this job. I normally dread working on door panels, window regulators etc... but this was actually one of the easiest I've done. Thanks BMW!
Thanks for this. Watched your video about 5 times and then had a go at my 320d door. Took about 90mins, hard part was getting that first piece of trim off. Had some fun trying to twist the actuator around inside the door. Put back together and it works. Edit. You do not need to take off the door handle if there is no lock I it.
Very helpful video. I was quoted $830 to replace do the driver's side lock actuator with parts and labor. It took me about an hour and a half with a part that was just under $200 along with some $15 trim tools.
WARNING: Don't forget to take the white plastic guide off the old actuator and install it on the new actuator. AGH! I didn't notice this until reading the notes of other people that caught this. I had already installed the new actuator without it. But, I was able to loosen the 3 big bolts and slide the actuator down and put the piece on inside the door without unhooking everything. Ugh. A couple of gotchas I had to learn. If you accidently pull on the exterior door handle with the keylock removed, it will slide and come unhooked from the mechanism that actual opens the door (e.g. there is no spring resistant in the handle anymore). There are a couple of OTHER people with videos that discuss this problem. It is HARD to get it back in and there is a trick -- see those videos. Even with the trick, mine took 2 people and 4 hands to get it to work. Do everything you can to NOT disconnect the exterior handle -- don't touch it while the keylock is removed. That cost me at least an hour of googling, video watching, cursing, convincing my wife that doing this myself was a great idea, etc. SECOND, with the keylock removed, the plastic housing the hex bolt is in shifted back in to the door 1/4 inch. It looked fine, but the under-handle light would NOT go back in place. 45 minutes of fighting with it with no chance of getting it back in position like the videos from multiple people show. I finally took the passenger door cap (the fake doorlock piece) off to see what was different between the doors and that is when I realized what had shifted. With some cajoling, I got it back in place. Ugh. (And then I stupidly pulled the handle and disconnected it from the lock mechanism like I did on the other door -- see above paragraph.) I had actually done this replacement on the passenger door a couple of years ago. The driver side door kicked my but. 3 hours. I haven't cursed this much in a long while.
Thanks for the video. Done the passenger door actuator today on my f30. A relatively easy job although it took me a while to get the actuator out of the door but once it was out the new one went back in easy. A job definitely worth attempting as a DIY. I got the actuator for €50. I was quoted €200 by my local mechanic for the actuator plus labour so a nice little saving!
Thank you for the great video instructions. It was a great help. A bit tricky inside the door getting the two cable connectors from the outside door handle off because I didn’t have your handy dandy tool. But I figured out a way and it all when smoothly from there. Thanks again, -mark
Great video - thanks. For anyone who owns a pre-LCI E90 (2006-2008 3 series 4-door), you must remove the lower nut on the window rail, so you can bend it forward just a touch. It is not possible to remove the unit in the way shown in this video, from my experience. EDIT: I ordered a new OEM latch/actuator assembly from my BMW dealer. Apparently they ship with untapped installation holes - you need to tap them yourself. I suspect they are 6mm X .75 pitch, but I spoke with the service advisor and he said to just run the screws in. I put the new latch into my vise and ran them in with a power drill - worked like a champ.
To mystreba, I have a 2007 E90 4-door. Regarding your experience that it is not possible to remove the unit in the way shown in the case of "pre-LCI E90 (2006-2008 3 series 4-door)", can you describe in more detail, perhaps where or how the actuator gets stuck? I ask because in another DIY ( "BMW Door Actuator Fixed E90 2007 3 Series 328I M3" - ruclips.net/video/vUUWdoKG05A/видео.html ) around 00:04:23 into the video, the actuator is shown rotated at least 90 degrees inside the door (to show the wire clips through the holes in the door chassis). Although this other DIY also involved loosening the window regulator rail nut(s) as you mentioned for the actual removal, if the actuator can be rotated 90 degrees as in the video I linked, with even a little more wiggle room as it seems, it seems reasonable to assume that it might be possible to rotate the actuator another 90 degrees for a full 180 degrees total (as shown in this video here). If so, then it would seem possible to go around the upper portion of the window regulator rail while shifting the actuator from a vertical position to a horizontal position to remove it from the upper opening* in the door chassis (* 2007 E90 has slightly different door chassis openings). Of course this is my wishful thinking and I'd greatly appreciate your detailed description of why you were not able to remove the actuator without loosening the window regulator rail nut(s). Thanks...
Great video, I'm glad I found this as I was going to take the window out to remove the lock. Nice job only took me an hour, my issue was slightly different, the cable that connects the outside door handle to the lock was broken. Cheers
Hopefully your F10 repair will not require for you to mess with the window regulator as this made my repair so much easier than other videos I had come across. One of the later comments mentioned waiting to undo some of the clips until the actuator was unbolted, but either way, I do recommend some type of mirror, for you to see how everything is attached, to insure you properly reconnect everything. I installed the $150 BMW regulator since the previous repair mechanic had said that the new actuators were more durable than the OE. As easy as my repair was, I will probably buy the rear actuators on Ebay, to save some money, when I get ready to tackle those.
Glad it could help and definitely glad you saved money. I only make a video of a repair, when I don't find a good current one, to help with a repair I have not previously attempted, in hopes of keeping you from making any mistakes I may have made.
Good to know. It's been a while since I replaced it, but it was very easy to remove the outer lock portion of the door handle once the one bolt was removed.
Good Evening . Thank you for this video, I have a 2006 BMW E90 316I. My Right Rear Door is locked - the lock is broken. I have opened the wallpaper, but from all the places I tried it does NOT open. What should I do? If I open the two door support hinges will I be able to open the door? It does NOT open at all. What should I do to open it? Thank you.
I never had a problem with the back door but if you were able to remove the inner cover, I would try to get a long screwdriver back to where the actuator is and tap on the handle with a hammer as someone uses the door unlock button. It may temporarily get the actuator to unlock.
I am interested to repair the gears inside the actuator but have not seen any DIY videos or instruction. It seems that drilling and cutting is necessary to teardown the actuator. Anyone??
Good to hear that the viideo helped you. This is my first BMW, so I wasn't aware that you could rebuild the older versions. I would assume if you could find the internal parts, it would be rebuildable, but not sure.
No, but just specify driver or passenger side. I bought a new one on eBay but recently purchased a remanufactured one, where the seller refunds you $10 and includes a return label, for your old one. He also extends the warranty. It's on a Maxima and is working as well as the new one for the BMW.
Just wonder if you did replace the lock actuator for the F10, i tried to do mine this morning but no able to find out how to slide out the door lock thing that connects to the actuator.
Sorry, I have not found a good glue and spray upholstery adhesive is very messy and hard to work with. Sometimes you can reuse the original adhesive if you press the insulation back in place. For tears, I have used duct tape, to at least try to have some type of seal.
No, I did not have to disconnect the battery. Although it is an electrical part, there shouldn't be any cause for any kind of short, which might cause damage. Good Luck!
You have inspired me to do my own passenger side door actuator replacement after seeing this video. Did your vehicle have the comfort access feature (touch to open)? I could not tell by the video. Wonder if the process is the same. Also curious as to is it necessary to use the mirror and disconnect the cable from the actuator your highlighted using the cotter pin tool or can that be done after the 3 bolts are removed and the full actuator is removed from its position? The rest looks pretty straight forward so I think I am going to try. Got an OEM actuator by using my vehicles VIN so I am hoping it is the same process as your video. I have 2014 F30 Sedan (328d) and it is the passenger front door that is going bad. Car out of warranty and didnt want to pay the dealer $600 when the part was $150 and hoping labor is FREE! Thanks for answering my questions!
Yes, I do have the touch to open feature. You should be able to remove the 3 bolts and then access the cable. Since I had the mirror, I wanted to be able to offer the suggestion, for people who may want to see what they are disconnecting. As previously mentioned, once you rotate the actuator inside the door, it easily comes around the window bracket. My passenger side went out first and it was repaired at the dealer. I did the driver's side only as a precaution, because I noticed every once in a while, the door lock button would not go up and I did not want to wait until I could not open the door. Good Luck!
Well i took a chance and did mine today. Took me about one hour after watching your video several times. The hardest part was reinstalling the cable on the actuator that connects from the top and bottom. I guess this is the the comfort access cable. That one was tough to engage. And i should have worn the sock you mentioned. Got numerous red marks on the inner forearm so i should have followed that advice. Otherwise very easy job and glad i saved over $450 doing it. Your video was great. Thanks again.
Good to hear that you were able to complete the job and save the $450. It takes a bit to get used to wearing socks on the arms, but I do so on almost any repair, where I have to reach into the engine compartment. It also keeps the arms from getting all greasy and I can just throw them away when I am done and find another old pair, next time.
So what was the part number? When searching on EBay I found them around $50, then the seller said it wouldn't work for my model and linked a new part number, where they were all around $250.
Sorry for the delayed response, been on a hike and did not have Wifi. The left front actuator is # 51 21 7 229 461. The right front is # 51 21 7 318 424. Not sure why Ebay shows the new left one for $125 vs. $50 for the new right one, when they are a mirror image of each other. It may be because the left one was a superseded part #. The OE part # for the one I took off is 51 21 7 229 455, which does appear to have some higher Ebay prices, but the 461 which I installed was the superseded #, I received from BMW and it was identical to the one I removed. Good Luck!
Is there any hope for fixing the lock actuator and not buying a new one? We are currently working on the lock actuator trying to do that, but can’t find tutorials on it.
@@tomaszgajek4680 If you can find the replacement parts, you may be able to replace the internal parts. Since the actuator was not too expensive, I replaced the complete assembly.
Sorry, don't know how they got the door open. I think they have to come through the door panel and somehow break the actuator, to open the door. When I did the other side, the actuator was still working so I was able to open the door.
The BMW stealership quoted me $1200 to do this job. Wanted $270 for the part. Found the same OEM part online for $160. Install was easy. Saved a lot of money with the DIY approach. Nice video! Helped to clarify the barrel lock mechanism nicely. Cheers!
It's always good, when we can stay away from the gouging dealer or high end BMW shops prices.
Where do you get the part from?
Thank you! I used this on my passenger side door on 2013 BMW 328i Sedan. I bought the replacement from Dorman on Amazon.
NOTE: it’s not necessary to remove the door handle keyhole piece if your door doesn’t have a physical keyhole in that piece. Just skip it.
We have the same car and now this is happening and dealer wants 1000 for parts and labor
Thank you, the deal wanted $1000 from me for one door, thanks to your vid I can do this on my own now. 🙌🏾
Excellent video
Simple
I make a remark not a critic
The cables running around the actuator mud out in the proper clips in the aviator There is a big chance when rolling down the glass that get tangle
Keep doing videos you are good
Dr Diaz
Thanks for the video! Made it a lot easier to tackle this job. I normally dread working on door panels, window regulators etc... but this was actually one of the easiest I've done. Thanks BMW!
Thanks for this. Watched your video about 5 times and then had a go at my 320d door. Took about 90mins, hard part was getting that first piece of trim off. Had some fun trying to twist the actuator around inside the door. Put back together and it works.
Edit. You do not need to take off the door handle if there is no lock I it.
Good to hear that you were able to get the actuator changed and save all that money, the dealer would have charged.
Thanks for the walk-through. I'll be referencing your video for my driver's side replacement on my F36 this weekend.
Thanks perfect video just replaced mine in about 20 min "you rock man"
20 min, I'm impressed! Can you believe what BMW wants for this repair.
@@mden98 I can imagine!! 💰💰
Very helpful video. I was quoted $830 to replace do the driver's side lock actuator with parts and labor. It took me about an hour and a half with a part that was just under $200 along with some $15 trim tools.
My actuator cost was $35 lol
@@SupportTheLittleGuyye just replaced mine with the 35 dollar one off amazon, works so far
WARNING: Don't forget to take the white plastic guide off the old actuator and install it on the new actuator. AGH! I didn't notice this until reading the notes of other people that caught this. I had already installed the new actuator without it. But, I was able to loosen the 3 big bolts and slide the actuator down and put the piece on inside the door without unhooking everything. Ugh.
A couple of gotchas I had to learn. If you accidently pull on the exterior door handle with the keylock removed, it will slide and come unhooked from the mechanism that actual opens the door (e.g. there is no spring resistant in the handle anymore). There are a couple of OTHER people with videos that discuss this problem. It is HARD to get it back in and there is a trick -- see those videos. Even with the trick, mine took 2 people and 4 hands to get it to work. Do everything you can to NOT disconnect the exterior handle -- don't touch it while the keylock is removed. That cost me at least an hour of googling, video watching, cursing, convincing my wife that doing this myself was a great idea, etc.
SECOND, with the keylock removed, the plastic housing the hex bolt is in shifted back in to the door 1/4 inch. It looked fine, but the under-handle light would NOT go back in place. 45 minutes of fighting with it with no chance of getting it back in position like the videos from multiple people show. I finally took the passenger door cap (the fake doorlock piece) off to see what was different between the doors and that is when I realized what had shifted. With some cajoling, I got it back in place. Ugh. (And then I stupidly pulled the handle and disconnected it from the lock mechanism like I did on the other door -- see above paragraph.)
I had actually done this replacement on the passenger door a couple of years ago. The driver side door kicked my but. 3 hours. I haven't cursed this much in a long while.
Не часто можно встретить такое качественное объяснение всего процесса! Спасибо вам огромное:)))
Спасибо, надеюсь, ваш ремонт был таким же легким, как мой.
Thanks a lot for your great tutorial 💪 I found it easier to pull of the white cable and wire after I unscrewed all three screws. Good luck everyone!
Appreciate the tip, for the next person, replacing their actuator (and saving a ton of money!)
Thanks for the video. Done the passenger door actuator today on my f30. A relatively easy job although it took me a while to get the actuator out of the door but once it was out the new one went back in easy.
A job definitely worth attempting as a DIY. I got the actuator for €50. I was quoted €200 by my local mechanic for the actuator plus labour so a nice little saving!
Good to hear that it was easy for you and a little saving is always a plus.
Thnx got it done in 30 minutes
Good to hear that you were able to replace it so quickly.
Thank you for the great video instructions. It was a great help. A bit tricky inside the door getting the two cable connectors from the outside door handle off because I didn’t have your handy dandy tool. But I figured out a way and it all when smoothly from there.
Thanks again,
-mark
Good to hear that you were able to complete the repair.
Great video - thanks. For anyone who owns a pre-LCI E90 (2006-2008 3 series 4-door), you must remove the lower nut on the window rail, so you can bend it forward just a touch. It is not possible to remove the unit in the way shown in this video, from my experience. EDIT: I ordered a new OEM latch/actuator assembly from my BMW dealer. Apparently they ship with untapped installation holes - you need to tap them yourself. I suspect they are 6mm X .75 pitch, but I spoke with the service advisor and he said to just run the screws in. I put the new latch into my vise and ran them in with a power drill - worked like a champ.
Thanks for the additional info, this is the only BMW I have worked on, so any tips on other models are appreciated.
To mystreba,
I have a 2007 E90 4-door. Regarding your experience that it is not possible to remove the unit in the way shown in the case of "pre-LCI E90 (2006-2008 3 series 4-door)", can you describe in more detail, perhaps where or how the actuator gets stuck?
I ask because in another DIY ( "BMW Door Actuator Fixed E90 2007 3 Series 328I M3" - ruclips.net/video/vUUWdoKG05A/видео.html ) around 00:04:23 into the video, the actuator is shown rotated at least 90 degrees inside the door (to show the wire clips through the holes in the door chassis).
Although this other DIY also involved loosening the window regulator rail nut(s) as you mentioned for the actual removal, if the actuator can be rotated 90 degrees as in the video I linked, with even a little more wiggle room as it seems, it seems reasonable to assume that it might be possible to rotate the actuator another 90 degrees for a full 180 degrees total (as shown in this video here).
If so, then it would seem possible to go around the upper portion of the window regulator rail while shifting the actuator from a vertical position to a horizontal position to remove it from the upper opening* in the door chassis (* 2007 E90 has slightly different door chassis openings).
Of course this is my wishful thinking and I'd greatly appreciate your detailed description of why you were not able to remove the actuator without loosening the window regulator rail nut(s). Thanks...
Great video, I'm glad I found this as I was going to take the window out to remove the lock. Nice job only took me an hour, my issue was slightly different, the cable that connects the outside door handle to the lock was broken.
Cheers
Yes, I don't like messing with windows as they break surprisingly easy. Hope your door handle is fixed now.
@@mden98 working perfect thanks...
Thank you my good sir!
Going to attempt this and save money from the dealership!
Just did this today, those plastic pins that hold the wire were hard to remove! I thought they were going to break, luckily they didn’t!
Good that they didn't break. It's fairly common that these plastic pieces break.
Great detail video
great video... about to attempt it soon on my f10... thanks
Hopefully your F10 repair will not require for you to mess with the window regulator as this made my repair so much easier than other videos I had come across. One of the later comments mentioned waiting to undo some of the clips until the actuator was unbolted, but either way, I do recommend some type of mirror, for you to see how everything is attached, to insure you properly reconnect everything.
I installed the $150 BMW regulator since the previous repair mechanic had said that the new actuators were more durable than the OE. As easy as my repair was, I will probably buy the rear actuators on Ebay, to save some money, when I get ready to tackle those.
Thanks for the video, I have subscribed as this video helped me change my lock actuator which saved me money ! 💰 thanks again
Glad it could help and definitely glad you saved money. I only make a video of a repair, when I don't find a good current one, to help with a repair I have not previously attempted, in hopes of keeping you from making any mistakes I may have made.
Great video! Only thing I want to point out is, there is no need to take the door handle off.
Good to know. It's been a while since I replaced it, but it was very easy to remove the outer lock portion of the door handle once the one bolt was removed.
Thank you, very helpful video.
Glad it could help.
Nice job on the video! Thank you!
Thank you for this video brother you save me some money
Ok I'm buying this part online and getting it done myself, wish me luck
Thank for video I put a door on my bmw 3 series 2014 and since iv put it on when driving in dose not recognise I s open do you no anything please
Sorry, no I don’t know what would cause that.
Good Evening . Thank you for this video, I have a 2006 BMW E90 316I. My Right Rear Door is locked - the lock is broken. I have opened the wallpaper, but from all the places I tried it does NOT open. What should I do? If I open the two door support hinges will I be able to open the door? It does NOT open at all. What should I do to open it?
Thank you.
I never had a problem with the back door but if you were able to remove the inner cover, I would try to get a long screwdriver back to where the actuator is and tap on the handle with a hammer as someone uses the door unlock button. It may temporarily get the actuator to unlock.
@@mden98 Good morning. Thank you very much for your quick reply, I appreciate your advice. I will try.
I am interested to repair the gears inside the actuator but have not seen any DIY videos or instruction. It seems that drilling and cutting is necessary to teardown the actuator. Anyone??
Fantastic video, helped me out a lot. Any idea if these locks can be rebuilt with new internals like on the older cars?
Good to hear that the viideo helped you. This is my first BMW, so I wasn't aware that you could rebuild the older versions. I would assume if you could find the internal parts, it would be rebuildable, but not sure.
Do you have the part number of door lock assembly? Where did you buy it?
No, but just specify driver or passenger side. I bought a new one on eBay but recently purchased a remanufactured one, where the seller refunds you $10 and includes a return label, for your old one. He also extends the warranty. It's on a Maxima and is working as well as the new one for the BMW.
thanks for video quick question does this need any reprogram ? any issues with alarm or electrical ??? planning on doing on my f10
Sorry for the delayed response. No reprogram was necessary and it did not affect the alarm system or any other electrical system.
Just wonder if you did replace the lock actuator for the F10, i tried to do mine this morning but no able to find out how to slide out the door lock thing that connects to the actuator.
Just found this in time for me to fix my wife's car
Good Luck. It was actually much easier than I originally expected.
how do you glue back the sound foam insulation? or you buy new part for the sound foam insulation?
Sorry, I have not found a good glue and spray upholstery adhesive is very messy and hard to work with. Sometimes you can reuse the original adhesive if you press the insulation back in place. For tears, I have used duct tape, to at least try to have some type of seal.
Thanks for the video. I'll definitely give this a try. Did you have to disconnect the battery in advance?
No, I did not have to disconnect the battery. Although it is an electrical part, there shouldn't be any cause for any kind of short, which might cause damage. Good Luck!
@@mden98 That will save me some time. Thanks for the tips!
I have same car. My driver side door is stuck on unlocked.
You have inspired me to do my own passenger side door actuator replacement after seeing this video. Did your vehicle have the comfort access feature (touch to open)? I could not tell by the video. Wonder if the process is the same. Also curious as to is it necessary to use the mirror and disconnect the cable from the actuator your highlighted using the cotter pin tool or can that be done after the 3 bolts are removed and the full actuator is removed from its position? The rest looks pretty straight forward so I think I am going to try. Got an OEM actuator by using my vehicles VIN so I am hoping it is the same process as your video. I have 2014 F30 Sedan (328d) and it is the passenger front door that is going bad. Car out of warranty and didnt want to pay the dealer $600 when the part was $150 and hoping labor is FREE! Thanks for answering my questions!
Yes, I do have the touch to open feature. You should be able to remove the 3 bolts and then access the cable. Since I had the mirror, I wanted to be able to offer the suggestion, for people who may want to see what they are disconnecting. As previously mentioned, once you rotate the actuator inside the door, it easily comes around the window bracket.
My passenger side went out first and it was repaired at the dealer. I did the driver's side only as a precaution, because I noticed every once in a while, the door lock button would not go up and I did not want to wait until I could not open the door.
Good Luck!
Well i took a chance and did mine today. Took me about one hour after watching your video several times. The hardest part was reinstalling the cable on the actuator that connects from the top and bottom. I guess this is the the comfort access cable. That one was tough to engage. And i should have worn the sock you mentioned. Got numerous red marks on the inner forearm so i should have followed that advice. Otherwise very easy job and glad i saved over $450 doing it. Your video was great. Thanks again.
Good to hear that you were able to complete the job and save the $450. It takes a bit to get used to wearing socks on the arms, but I do so on almost any repair, where I have to reach into the engine compartment. It also keeps the arms from getting all greasy and I can just throw them away when I am done and find another old pair, next time.
How to do this if your driver side door is locked and doesnt open from inside?
hello, did you get open yours doors? how did you get? i have the same problam i can not open doors
So what was the part number? When searching on EBay I found them around $50, then the seller said it wouldn't work for my model and linked a new part number, where they were all around $250.
Sorry for the delayed response, been on a hike and did not have Wifi.
The left front actuator is # 51 21 7 229 461.
The right front is # 51 21 7 318 424.
Not sure why Ebay shows the new left one for $125 vs. $50 for the new right one, when they are a mirror image of each other. It may be because the left one was a superseded part #. The OE part # for the one I took off is 51 21 7 229 455, which does appear to have some higher Ebay prices, but the 461 which I installed was the superseded #, I received from BMW and it was identical to the one I removed.
Good Luck!
Did you need to program the vehicle after replacing that?
No, it's not necessary, just replacing the actuator, takes care of the problem.
Is there any hope for fixing the lock actuator and not buying a new one?
We are currently working on the lock actuator trying to do that, but can’t find tutorials on it.
Sorry, I'm not sure what causes the failure, so would not know what to look for if you took it apart.
Inside the lock body there are 2 small engines. One of them is dead. It is possible to reinstal new one
@@tomaszgajek4680 If you can find the replacement parts, you may be able to replace the internal parts. Since the actuator was not too expensive, I replaced the complete assembly.
You didn't show us if it worked or not.
Amigo, me pasa lo mismo, no sube y baja el seguro.
¿Se debe cambiar esa pieza completa? (51217202143)
o ¿la pieza del motor es otra?
Gracias, saludos
Hola Cristian,
Sí, tendrás que reemplazar el actuador para solucionar el problema. El actuador es todo una pieza completa.
Buena suerte!
@@mden98 Excelente! gracias, me sacaste esa duda.
Ya estoy suscrito, Gracias, Saludos desde Chile!
Hola tengo el mismo problema? Donde conseguiste la pieza? Un cordial saludo
@@hectordiaz510
hola, la puedes encontrar en ebay, aliexpress, amazon. Busca por el P/N 51217202143, es el mismo para el BMW E90 y F30. Saludos!
How much was the part
Dealer wants $150 for the regulator, but you can find new ones on Ebay for about $50.
I have the same problem how did bmw open the locked door
Sorry, don't know how they got the door open. I think they have to come through the door panel and somehow break the actuator, to open the door. When I did the other side, the actuator was still working so I was able to open the door.
Did you found tutorial how to open doors with broken and locked actuator. Outside and inside handel dont work.
Why do useful var repair videos always have stupid music playing in background