Based on your video, I think it's worth it, if it's your 4th or 5th printer, not your first. Building an OEM Prusa takes about the same time, except not replacing parts along the way. But the bang for buck ratio of this clone is pretty attractive. Great video as usual!
I dont know Rick. It cost 320 less but it doesnt come with misumi bearings, delta psu (with power panic), LDO motors, original V6, original Gates belts, original PEI sheet, super PINDA (non temperature dependant), Noctua fan and gummy bears. Maybe you could save 150 dollars
@@Marcos-tj8nk I'll do a 50,000 hour review of my MK3S+ rack here soon. You're not wrong, but at the same time more than a few of those marketing bullets haven't had a large impact on performance in my experience.
@@3DPrintedDebris Hey man, now after using it for 4 months after that comment. What do you think about it? I wanted to go for a voron, but that would be too large of a project for me to handle initially. So why not a prusa? (always wanted one back when I was into 3D printing with the original ender 3). What's attracting me about this chinese crap, is it doesn't have a 1 month+ lead time..
For a home hobbyist? Worth it. Someone who has a print farm that understands what parts to swap out during the build (like yourself) then “maybe.” Really up to the individual. I have an actual Prusa and a clone. I opted for the Bear frame on my clone. Only thing I changed was the hotend, heater cartridge and thermistor. Used Triangle lab heat sink, everything else was E3D. Works just as good as my Prusa’s. I do think the power supply is cheap. Time will tell on that. I got mine for $288 plus tax, so around $320 shipped. Triangle lab hot end was $16. Other parts I already had such as the E3D wires. Nylon piece for cabling is a piece of 3mm nylon…….weed eater string. So, saved a lot of money. I personally would not have done it if not just for fun/hobby. I also built a FYSETC mini and that one works great also. I did change the gears also for Triangle Lab gears (Bondtech clone.)
Here lately the clones have been shipping with one side of the build plate as bare metal; this has been wearing out the heated bed PCB lamination and shorting out the machine. I had to cover that side with some spare PEI, but it's just another subtle difference that has an effect over time and use.
With the recent price hike, do you feel like the clones are more worth it than the original kits? Also, have you had any issues with the quality / safety of the PSUs on the clones?
No issues with the clones, except that they don't coat both sides of the heated bed sheet and it shorts out as the traces on the cheap PCB start to wear with repeated use.
I build the Fysetc kit yesterday (my first Prusa) and it works just great! I had to solve some minor issues but it all seemed well prepared. My main reason for the clone was the cheap price. I was also missing the nylon filament (as support for X carrige cabel guide), so I did without it. Is it necessary? Can it be replacet with a PTFE tube?
I'm in a conundrum with this. I've had an original MK3S I just upgraded to an S+, reprinted all my parts in Prusament Ultramarine Blue PETG, Swapped out the v6 for a Revo 6...and it's working just fine. I've had an LDO Bear frame sitting in my garage for about 6 months now, waiting til Black Friday to bite the bullet and buy a 2nd one..but now I have the Voron bug. I WILL eventually get a v2.4, but can't fit it right now (until oldest moves out in maybe a year), but I'm considering getting a little V0.1 to get my feet wet. It's hard to rationalize the $800 for a OEM kit when I'm going to be using some of the provided parts. It's also crazy how its MORE money to buy quality parts (LDO steppers, original heatbed, etc.) separately than just a complete kit. But for the price of a Fystec MK3S+ kit right now on Aliexpress, I can get it for $358 AND a Formbot Voron V0.1 kit fir $379. It's difficult to not realize I can get two printers for the price of 1 OEM Prusa. I can at least order OEM parts for it if I need it I suppose. DECISIONS, DECISIONS. How is that PSU holding up? That's one of the things I'm also considering not even messing with and getting a Meanwell LRS 350-24 along with the Bondtech gears and genuine E3D hotend
The PSU is not as efficient as the Meanwell for sure. The one supply I swapped wasn't actually at fault; the heated bed traces were shorting out to the flex plate as Fysetc doesn't coat the bottom with PEX. Overall, if you go with the mean well I'm sure on a long enough timeline you'll recover the cost in power savings both by the efficiency of the supply, but also the cooling costs in dealing with the excess heat. Hope this helps!!
How do you feel about the y-axis bearings vs the prusa supplied misumis? I have a real i3 and a clone and the clone bearings seem incredibly sloppy in comparison, wondering if it's just the bearings or if it's also the rods.
Hi thanks for all those nice videos. I have actually a Lulzbot mini and honestly, I would never have expected it will had so much nicer quality than classical other printer. I would like to ask you if you feel the same when you use a real Prusa against a cheap printer, and if the clone, despite it's a clone, give better result, according sturdy and smooth build, like a "professionnal printe" would do.
Honestly, I (and my customers) can't tell the difference. Build experience and technical ability factors in greatly. I've seem some terrible prints come off of other makers using the same gear. You almost have to look at it like a musical instrument.
@@3DPrintedDebris I am waiting for a Prusa next month. For the moment, the Lulzbot mini made an incredible prints, even if the print coming from Creality, Kingroon and Artillery are very nice. Just feel like when it's real professionnal, you can not discuss it, according to the print. So clones are nice to have, maybe better for a "non professionnal use". Of course a real Prusa can't failed you because it's her purpose. Thanks for your thoughs.
Hi.. in your video at 2:45 or so, you were talking a little too fast.. "Nylon line for the extruder something something..." what was that?? Another question, i am in Canada. i am able to get the bear kit for under $600CDN total including shipping and duty (including trianglelab all metal heat break and PETG parts printed, let say i am lazy), where as the original prusa is $1220 or so CDN, not including the bear conversion kit.. so the FYSETC kit is almost 60% off of the original, would that change your decision? Thank you
There's a 3mm nylon line that is in the loom to give it some rigidity. Personally, I won't be adding any more clones to my army. There's just too many headaches (most recent the lack of PEI on the build plate wore off the PCB insulation on the heated bed, shorting out the machine) and I'd rather just go with a Prusa MK3S+ kit.
@@3DPrintedDebris what other headaches have there been? I have one original and am on the fence for a second orig/clone to toy with while the other is functional. Thanks for the video!
I just received a Fysetc kit. They have addressed many of the issues mentioned here. The build plate is now a powder coated PEI plate, no need to assemble it. The heat break is all metal and the kit comes with thermal compound. Prusa's increased prices is making this more attractive.
I bought this model last month, Is true that I am new in 3D area but I can't print any 5 hours item without error or issues ... it take me 4 days to install and calibrate and still no good, this is my experience
Just a thought but why has no one started selling aluminium bits instead of the printed parts surly this would make it stronger and less likely need to replace worn out or badly made frame bits. Im struggling on what to buy as a first printer, I like the prusa but not the uk price or the kywoo or artillery X2 or i dont know 🤯 to many to choose and all with faults.
@@3DPrintedDebris fair point but the amount people spend on upgrading from new frames to hot ends and electronics but still use bad designed 3d printed parts that are made bigger so are able to push in captive nuts or hot pressed, I'm a toolmaker and find printing 🤯 and when designing have to make it simple and functional and replaceable, to make a angle bracket to hold a motor surly if you make thousands of printers it's better for guarantee quality to be made in metal. It was just a thought and not picking good and bad fight but thanks for your reply 👍
@@3DPrintedDebris thanks, I've binged watch your videos 👏 it's a mine field out there with which way to go and what to get but it's thanks for people like you giving advice 👍
I have the originals and the clones and... in the long run, they are not worth it... for 300 more you get the real deal and the quality is sooooo much better. Also, the resale price is amazing on the originals, while the clones are not really worth a thing. But hey... if you have ecperience and know what to replace right away they work just fine and a work horse is a work horse, doesnt have to be pretty!
Doesn't really seem worth it to be honest. I would expect in the long term the reliability would be worse too. I guess the only way it makes total sense is if prusas are not in stock!!
That's where I am falling on this issue as well. I've had to replace almost all of the electronics in clone 2 so far. The rest have been on par with Prusa OEM for maintenance, but I've never once gotten a lemon from Prusa. And if I had, they would replace it.
![The best Prusa MK3S 3D printer alternative? [test, compare, review]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z-OkYePawN8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Building the cheapest possible Prusa i3 MK2 clone: [01] Electronics and Extruder!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oVWLpvekby0/mqdefault.jpg)
Based on your video, I think it's worth it, if it's your 4th or 5th printer, not your first. Building an OEM Prusa takes about the same time, except not replacing parts along the way. But the bang for buck ratio of this clone is pretty attractive.
Great video as usual!
Thank you!
I dont know Rick. It cost 320 less but it doesnt come with misumi bearings, delta psu (with power panic), LDO motors, original V6, original Gates belts, original PEI sheet, super PINDA (non temperature dependant), Noctua fan and gummy bears. Maybe you could save 150 dollars
@@Marcos-tj8nk I'll do a 50,000 hour review of my MK3S+ rack here soon. You're not wrong, but at the same time more than a few of those marketing bullets haven't had a large impact on performance in my experience.
@@3DPrintedDebris Hey man, now after using it for 4 months after that comment. What do you think about it? I wanted to go for a voron, but that would be too large of a project for me to handle initially. So why not a prusa? (always wanted one back when I was into 3D printing with the original ender 3). What's attracting me about this chinese crap, is it doesn't have a 1 month+ lead time..
@@bravefastrabbit770 same question
For a home hobbyist? Worth it. Someone who has a print farm that understands what parts to swap out during the build (like yourself) then “maybe.” Really up to the individual. I have an actual Prusa and a clone. I opted for the Bear frame on my clone. Only thing I changed was the hotend, heater cartridge and thermistor. Used Triangle lab heat sink, everything else was E3D. Works just as good as my Prusa’s. I do think the power supply is cheap. Time will tell on that. I got mine for $288 plus tax, so around $320 shipped. Triangle lab hot end was $16. Other parts I already had such as the E3D wires. Nylon piece for cabling is a piece of 3mm nylon…….weed eater string. So, saved a lot of money. I personally would not have done it if not just for fun/hobby. I also built a FYSETC mini and that one works great also. I did change the gears also for Triangle Lab gears (Bondtech clone.)
Here lately the clones have been shipping with one side of the build plate as bare metal; this has been wearing out the heated bed PCB lamination and shorting out the machine. I had to cover that side with some spare PEI, but it's just another subtle difference that has an effect over time and use.
With the recent price hike, do you feel like the clones are more worth it than the original kits? Also, have you had any issues with the quality / safety of the PSUs on the clones?
No issues with the clones, except that they don't coat both sides of the heated bed sheet and it shorts out as the traces on the cheap PCB start to wear with repeated use.
日本で100Vでの使用ですが、PLAは上手く印刷できますが、PETG以上の印刷はヘッドが止まり印刷が失敗します。
色々調べると電源が悪いみたいで純正の電源を手配しました。MK4のついでですけどね。
I build the Fysetc kit yesterday (my first Prusa) and it works just great! I had to solve some minor issues but it all seemed well prepared. My main reason for the clone was the cheap price. I was also missing the nylon filament (as support for X carrige cabel guide), so I did without it. Is it necessary? Can it be replacet with a PTFE tube?
The nylon gives the loom rigidity, otherwise it will flop down and possibly get hung up on a print. A PTFE tube will probably do it, too.
I'm in a conundrum with this. I've had an original MK3S I just upgraded to an S+, reprinted all my parts in Prusament Ultramarine Blue PETG, Swapped out the v6 for a Revo 6...and it's working just fine. I've had an LDO Bear frame sitting in my garage for about 6 months now, waiting til Black Friday to bite the bullet and buy a 2nd one..but now I have the Voron bug.
I WILL eventually get a v2.4, but can't fit it right now (until oldest moves out in maybe a year), but I'm considering getting a little V0.1 to get my feet wet. It's hard to rationalize the $800 for a OEM kit when I'm going to be using some of the provided parts. It's also crazy how its MORE money to buy quality parts (LDO steppers, original heatbed, etc.) separately than just a complete kit. But for the price of a Fystec MK3S+ kit right now on Aliexpress, I can get it for $358 AND a Formbot Voron V0.1 kit fir $379. It's difficult to not realize I can get two printers for the price of 1 OEM Prusa. I can at least order OEM parts for it if I need it I suppose. DECISIONS, DECISIONS.
How is that PSU holding up? That's one of the things I'm also considering not even messing with and getting a Meanwell LRS 350-24 along with the Bondtech gears and genuine E3D hotend
The PSU is not as efficient as the Meanwell for sure. The one supply I swapped wasn't actually at fault; the heated bed traces were shorting out to the flex plate as Fysetc doesn't coat the bottom with PEX. Overall, if you go with the mean well I'm sure on a long enough timeline you'll recover the cost in power savings both by the efficiency of the supply, but also the cooling costs in dealing with the excess heat. Hope this helps!!
How do you feel about the y-axis bearings vs the prusa supplied misumis? I have a real i3 and a clone and the clone bearings seem incredibly sloppy in comparison, wondering if it's just the bearings or if it's also the rods.
I haven't noticed much of a difference.
Hi thanks for all those nice videos. I have actually a Lulzbot mini and honestly, I would never have expected it will had so much nicer quality than classical other printer. I would like to ask you if you feel the same when you use a real Prusa against a cheap printer, and if the clone, despite it's a clone, give better result, according sturdy and smooth build, like a "professionnal printe" would do.
Honestly, I (and my customers) can't tell the difference. Build experience and technical ability factors in greatly. I've seem some terrible prints come off of other makers using the same gear. You almost have to look at it like a musical instrument.
@@3DPrintedDebris I am waiting for a Prusa next month. For the moment, the Lulzbot mini made an incredible prints, even if the print coming from Creality, Kingroon and Artillery are very nice. Just feel like when it's real professionnal, you can not discuss it, according to the print. So clones are nice to have, maybe better for a "non professionnal use". Of course a real Prusa can't failed you because it's her purpose. Thanks for your thoughs.
@@AIexanderHartdegen My clones were to satisfy a curiosity and gather data. I have 36 legit Prusa Minis, and 17 legit MK3S.
@@3DPrintedDebris lol I never doubt that you're a pro.
Hi.. in your video at 2:45 or so, you were talking a little too fast.. "Nylon line for the extruder something something..." what was that?? Another question, i am in Canada. i am able to get the bear kit for under $600CDN total including shipping and duty (including trianglelab all metal heat break and PETG parts printed, let say i am lazy), where as the original prusa is $1220 or so CDN, not including the bear conversion kit.. so the FYSETC kit is almost 60% off of the original, would that change your decision? Thank you
There's a 3mm nylon line that is in the loom to give it some rigidity.
Personally, I won't be adding any more clones to my army. There's just too many headaches (most recent the lack of PEI on the build plate wore off the PCB insulation on the heated bed, shorting out the machine) and I'd rather just go with a Prusa MK3S+ kit.
@@3DPrintedDebris thank you for your response :)
@@3DPrintedDebris what other headaches have there been? I have one original and am on the fence for a second orig/clone to toy with while the other is functional. Thanks for the video!
I just received a Fysetc kit. They have addressed many of the issues mentioned here. The build plate is now a powder coated PEI plate, no need to assemble it. The heat break is all metal and the kit comes with thermal compound. Prusa's increased prices is making this more attractive.
I bought this model last month, Is true that I am new in 3D area but I can't print any 5 hours item without error or issues ... it take me 4 days to install and calibrate and still no good, this is my experience
I've heard massive praise, and I've heard horror stories. You mileage will vary with these things.
Hi, nice video, could you provide a link to parts that you have replaced ? Thanks
Sure! I put them in the description.
Just a thought but why has no one started selling aluminium bits instead of the printed parts surly this would make it stronger and less likely need to replace worn out or badly made frame bits. Im struggling on what to buy as a first printer, I like the prusa but not the uk price or the kywoo or artillery X2 or i dont know 🤯 to many to choose and all with faults.
Because they're too expensive to manufacture, and it drives the price point way up for each machine.
@@3DPrintedDebris fair point but the amount people spend on upgrading from new frames to hot ends and electronics but still use bad designed 3d printed parts that are made bigger so are able to push in captive nuts or hot pressed, I'm a toolmaker and find printing 🤯 and when designing have to make it simple and functional and replaceable, to make a angle bracket to hold a motor surly if you make thousands of printers it's better for guarantee quality to be made in metal. It was just a thought and not picking good and bad fight but thanks for your reply 👍
@@ricardo-iw9sq After you get your first printer you'll understand why. Good luck!
@@3DPrintedDebris thanks, I've binged watch your videos 👏 it's a mine field out there with which way to go and what to get but it's thanks for people like you giving advice 👍
Great video! Have you looked into some Vorons by the way? 🤔
I have, and the 2.4 in 300+ will be the likely successor to my CR10s.
I have the originals and the clones and... in the long run, they are not worth it... for 300 more you get the real deal and the quality is sooooo much better. Also, the resale price is amazing on the originals, while the clones are not really worth a thing.
But hey... if you have ecperience and know what to replace right away they work just fine and a work horse is a work horse, doesnt have to be pretty!
I hadn't considered the resale price, good point!
Doesn't really seem worth it to be honest. I would expect in the long term the reliability would be worse too. I guess the only way it makes total sense is if prusas are not in stock!!
That's where I am falling on this issue as well. I've had to replace almost all of the electronics in clone 2 so far. The rest have been on par with Prusa OEM for maintenance, but I've never once gotten a lemon from Prusa. And if I had, they would replace it.