*Parts and Tools* This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. Honda Drive Belt 38920-RAA-A03: amzn.to/3xYgkX5 Bando Drive Belt 7PK1781 (Aftermarket Alternative): amzn.to/3tvOiiq Schley Products Belt Tensioner Tool 10950: amzn.to/2KzOMRf GearWrench Belt Tensioner Tool 3680 (alternative): amzn.to/2N8dhGX The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
I would have never guessed in a million years that belt could be removed so easily. You sir are saving people a ton of money. I'd buy you a beer in a minute if I thought you lived near me. Another great video.......thank you.
Can we honda people acknowledge the advice and "Napa know how" of big dog here! Always watch his videos to learn and grow with work on my 08 accord. Thanks for your time brother 🙏
Thank you so much for your honest, non-edited, boots-on-the-ground tutorial - I will have to put your calming words "Patience" and "Take Your Time" on "Loop Play" during my next repair!!
I love the way you reiterate to take your time over and over. Thank you so much for your videos, I watched your alternator replacement video first, but will now go and check to see if the belt also needs changing. Thank you also for telling us the part numbers. You’re a star.
Awesome video. Just replaced my belt this morning. 15 minute job from start to finish. Thanks for all the tips - especially PATIENCE ! Really urge people to get that tensioner tool that you show in the video. It will save you some bruised knuckles. I bought mine for $30 from Princess Auto ( Canada ) or probably Harbour Freight in the U.S. I was experiencing a whine from the engine when warm. Thought it was tensioner pulley - so I replaced that item but sound persisted. Then I thought maybe a bad power steering pump bearing. But before spending money on a new pump - I opted to replace the serpentine belt even though it looked fine. Once I replaced the belt - I inspected the old belt and found that it was delaminating ever so slightly but in multiple places along the belt. Car runs quiet now - just like new.
Be sure to subscribe for more tool and car repair videos! ruclips.net/user/BigDog50001 twitter.com/BigDog50001 instagram.com/bigdog50001/ Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Great video! A quick tip, always remove any watches or jewelry or rings off your hands and fingers whenever you perform any work on your car, particularly in the engine compartment. When I was in the military, they were very strict on enforcing that for safety.
Thanks for this, gave me confidence to have a go. I didn't think I could reach under the car to the crank pulley so took a 1m steel rod, bent the end over in a vice and covered said end with insulation tape to help move things around down there. Amazingly it worked, took about 10 mins.
Nice video. I would only add one important thing. Keep your old belt maybe with your spare tire! If you ever throw a belt while driving, you won't have to find one while on the road. It can come in very handy in that situation!
Great tip, I'll save my old one just in case. I've replaced my belt by watching this video. I took it off with the #14 wrench and a another wrench as an extension.
This video was awesome!!! The button totally disintegrated after I parked it in my garage, so it has been stuck there for 6 months because I didn't know how to get it out of the garage since it was in park. I even called a local mechanic I have used in the past, he's pretty good, but he said he would have to get under the car to release the linkage so we could shift the car!!!!!😳😳😳 Since we were in the must of cold winter, that has not happened. Now since I have watched this video, I'm going to go get the parts I need and do it myself!! Ps, I'm a woman, but I know I can do this!! Thank you for great video!!!
Watched this video, rented a EverTough 67061 from O’Reillys (ironically it did NOT contain the 14mm necessary for my 2004 Accord), and replaced it relatively easily with a Bando from AutoZone. Believe or not, my belt is original w 313,149 miles on it! Thank you fine sir for a wonderful tutorial! Saved me about $100...
Wow, really about 7 mins to replace your Accord drive belt! We'll be replacing my 2017 Honda Mobilio tomorrow. I'm asking a friend with some tools to help me. We hope it would be just as painless as yours did.
I was planning on replacing the belt and tensioner but after watching the first couple minutes I realized that probably wasnt necessary! That probably saves me about $80!!!
Thanks. Getting at the belt around the crank pulley was easy when accessed from the right front wheel well. I also had a really long screwdriver to reach down from the engine bay and give the belt a nudge if it needed it.
My tension release would NOT do that. Still got it out but need to put it on now. That arrow is to the left. So need to replace auto tension and belt. Probably why not working? This is my first time working on cars. Trying to learn. Thanks so much!!
Awesome video. Followed your steps including buying a tensioner tool. Excellent advise. Would only add that in my case - after replacing belt - the marker arrow fell outside the tolerance marker as shown in your video. However after starting engine and running for a few minutes - the marker fell back into the tolerance marker range. Otherwise thanks for the tutorial.
Great detail, informative, and extremely helpful. Yes your efforts were helpful. I need to change the serpentine belt on a 1999 Honda Accord LX. Thanks. 👍🏻😎🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸
my belt has 243,000 miles, never changed it but I will today. I've always inspected it and bought a replacement about 5 years ago but just haven't had the need to replace it.
My arrow is between the two bars exactly where yours was in the video, will it move to the right outside of the bars to let me know to replace belt ? Or should I also preventatively replace mine ? It is old but doesnt look too bad
Im about to replace the entire tensioner assembly on my 03 crv.gone through 4 belts or maybe 5 in the last year.also have an oil leak on the sane side.these things can be a nightmare to put on.but like you say patience,patience,patience.its not THAT hard.great vid by the way
Went through 3 aftermarket brands on that crv tensioner assembly. Sad to say none of them worked like oem. Each of them made the belt squel like a pig in a slaughter house. Oem was more than double the price but definitely worth the cost.
Thanks for the awesome video! I think that's the problem with my Honda - I'm going to grab a belt tomorrow and see if this fixes it. Your videos have given me the confidence to work on my car myself.
What does your Honda maintenance manual say about changing the tensioner pulley, does it recommend replacing along with the serpentine belt? Thanks for the video, I replaced my 2012 Accord belt after watching.
The idler pulley (the part that spins) should be replaced if it makes noise or feels gritty when spinning it by hand with belt off (sometimes it will make a loud obnoxious noise when car is running). Typically the entire Auto-Tensioner assembly (not just the pulley) is replaced if the service indicators that I pointed out are outside of the service limits, if the service indicators bounce back and forth too much when the car is running, if the tensioner does not move smoothly back and forth when moving it with a tool or if the service indicator changes position too much from engine off to engine on. The most tell-tale sign of the Auto-Tensioner assembly needing replacement is a chirping belt, especially at start up or revving engine. Thanks for the comment!
@@BigDog50001 Excellent feedback, thank you, I am indeed hearing a chirp at start-up, lasts a fraction of a second, I will take a closer look this weekend (using your points) and likely order the tensioner assembly. Maybe you have a tensioner YT so I'll look for that also.
Thank you! In my alternator replacement video I showed some other tools that can be used for this job, I show them at around the 8 minute mark and then I talk about part numbers near the end. ruclips.net/video/lyKm6cn6QiI/видео.html
I replaced my belt but it is banjo tight. The tensioner indicator however is within the proper range. Should I change the belt again? I got it from O’Reilys
Thank you for posting this video bro. Was a little frustrating for me but I got it done with your help. It definitely would help to have that specialty tool from Honda to loosen up that tensioner. I tried it with two smaller wrenches connecting them together and that was a real pain in the ass. So I went to harbor freight and bought a longer 14 mm and even that didn't really have quite the length that would enjoy the leverage to make this much simpler. Your comments about the tensioner and the arrows also are very valuable. I noticed that my tensioner arrow is slightly to the left so does that mean that that tensioner is going bad? Because I noticed that I have a slightly rough idle now. Any comment back would be appreciated on that
The Achilles heel is the compressor. In the 7th generation Honda, it is worth getting a V-belt. BANDO 7PK1390 or Continental Contitech Length [mm]: 1400 Replacing it takes a few minutes for a layman after deflecting the automatic tensioner (such a small circle) with a 13 or 14 wrench if I remember.
My belt won't tighten back on, is my tensioner shot? I tried a new belt and then went to put the old belt back on cause the new one was loose, I have it all on the way it should be and all lined up but won't tense back up
One thing I want to add, when buying the belt, get the correct one for your car. If your car has or doesn’t have air conditioning, get the correct one.
You, sir, are an excellent teacher! Thank you!! The only thing in watching your great videos I'm still confused about is what do you mean when you say you have a 14mm and a 17mm "hooked together"?
*Read* *my* *comment* if you are about to attempt this DIY. There are critical difficulties missing in this video. I thought i was well prepared after this video but it is missing key points. I'am a DIY and have done several successful repairs and maintenance in the past including full drum brakes but this seemingly easy belt replacement has several traps. It took me 3 hours split over two days to complete it, so i'm letting you know what pitfalls there are : 1) the loan a tool program from auto shops misses the 14 mm socket for Honda (they have 13,15,16,18 mm). Don't use the included crowfoot 14mm, it'll slip and fall off. Also make sure to use a low profile 14 mm socket or you won't be able to clear out the tool when you finish the install. Even if the tool fits when removing the old belt the new belt might set the belt tensioner slightly more against the motor mount and you won't be able to remove the wrench. So make sure your 14 mm socket is low profile enough. 2) The loan tool standard socket push-in attachment sucks (no retainer), use electrical tape to make sure it won't fall down in the car. I lost one 14 mm socket and have not found it. I had to go buy another at home depot which by chance was a few millimeter lower profile. When i finished the job it barely cleared the space against the motor mount and my original 14 mm socket from my toolbox probably wouldn't have. 3) Big helpful trick: I used a super long braker bar handle that i slid down just next to the crank pulley to prevent the new belt to get off it. That is a big help. maybe you can use a narrow broom handle as well. 4) When pushing the belt over the highest pulley with your hand don't think it seems it won't fit. You have to push one ridge at a time then adjust the belt around the other pulley underneath to get a little more slack. Then push again and repeat to get another ridge in. Don't expect it will work by only pushing in one go. Although it did for this guy, it did not for my car. That's about it. If i had known all this before hand it probably would have taken me 20 min. Always be doubful of these DIY where they complete the job in 10 min, it can be luck or they just got over the difficulty without showing them.
What were you doing when you went uner the car to adjust the belt on the lower pullys? We couldnt see...Were you accessing that at the wheel well or below the car?
*Parts and Tools*
This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
Honda Drive Belt 38920-RAA-A03: amzn.to/3xYgkX5
Bando Drive Belt 7PK1781 (Aftermarket Alternative): amzn.to/3tvOiiq
Schley Products Belt Tensioner Tool 10950: amzn.to/2KzOMRf
GearWrench Belt Tensioner Tool 3680 (alternative): amzn.to/2N8dhGX
The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Big Dog50001 Automotive l
I would have never guessed in a million years that belt could be removed so easily. You sir are saving people a ton of money. I'd buy you a beer in a minute if I thought you lived near me. Another great video.......thank you.
Thanks!
Dude that’s literally what I said after I saw this , I was like omg I can do this & a mechanic would probably charge a fortune smh😂😂
I've tried 3 hrs to change it and still can't . You made it look so easy
Can we honda people acknowledge the advice and "Napa know how" of big dog here! Always watch his videos to learn and grow with work on my 08 accord. Thanks for your time brother 🙏
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
This dude is saving lives in this economy no joke 💯💪🏻 the hero we all needed forreal.
Thanks for the comment 👍!
Thank you so much for your honest, non-edited, boots-on-the-ground tutorial - I will have to put your calming words "Patience" and "Take Your Time" on "Loop Play" during my next repair!!
Just did my serpentine belt replacement, couldn't have done it without this video, thank you you are a life saver
I love the way you reiterate to take your time over and over. Thank you so much for your videos, I watched your alternator replacement video first, but will now go and check to see if the belt also needs changing. Thank you also for telling us the part numbers. You’re a star.
Thanks 👍!
@@BigDog50001 Yep, the belt definitely needs changing :)
Awesome video. Just replaced my belt this morning. 15 minute job from start to finish. Thanks for all the tips - especially PATIENCE ! Really urge people to get that tensioner tool that you show in the video. It will save you some bruised knuckles. I bought mine for $30 from Princess Auto ( Canada ) or probably Harbour Freight in the U.S. I was experiencing a whine from the engine when warm. Thought it was tensioner pulley - so I replaced that item but sound persisted. Then I thought maybe a bad power steering pump bearing. But before spending money on a new pump - I opted to replace the serpentine belt even though it looked fine. Once I replaced the belt - I inspected the old belt and found that it was delaminating ever so slightly but in multiple places along the belt. Car runs quiet now - just like new.
i really appreciate the step by step and unedited portions that are the most difficult for the casual car tech. thank you
Thank you. You & others like you on here are saving us thousands of dollars that we can't afford to spend.
Be sure to subscribe for more tool and car repair videos!
ruclips.net/user/BigDog50001
twitter.com/BigDog50001
instagram.com/bigdog50001/
Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Thank you. I was able to replace my ripped up belt with a new one following your video
Normally I skip through some parts but I saw your comment about not editing the video to get a good time estimate and I really like that, thank you
Great video! A quick tip, always remove any watches or jewelry or rings off your hands and fingers whenever you perform any work on your car, particularly in the engine compartment. When I was in the military, they were very strict on enforcing that for safety.
Fantastic! I had no idea an indicator was built in to the tensioner. Thanks for the tips.
Echoing the comment below. I would have never expected that removing the belt could be that easy. Thank you sir!
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for this, gave me confidence to have a go. I didn't think I could reach under the car to the crank pulley so took a 1m steel rod, bent the end over in a vice and covered said end with insulation tape to help move things around down there.
Amazingly it worked, took about 10 mins.
Hey thank you for the clip! Just used it to help a lady in distress.
Kudos to you on the pointers in this video.
✊🏽
👍
Thank you for SHOWING how to lever the tensioner to slack the belt and for identifying the part number of the tool!
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you Big Dog! You make a great instructor. Your tone of voice and the pace is PERFECT :)
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Nice clear video without a bunch of yammering. Excellent. I did not see the indicator you reviewed in any other videos, very helpful. A+
Thanks for the comment!
Spent an hour and replaced the belt successfully! Thanks a lot!
👍
Thanks!! Just replaced my belt, this video was so helpful!
👍
Some heroes do not wear capes, only dirty greasy pants and shirts!! Thank you for this video!
I had no idea about that indicator arrow. Very useful! Thanks for pointing that out!
👍
Thank you so much. I didn't realize it was as simple as it was till I cane across this video.
👍
This man is priceless. Thank you.
Nice video. I would only add one important thing. Keep your old belt maybe with your spare tire! If you ever throw a belt while driving, you won't have to find one while on the road. It can come in very handy in that situation!
You will need a tool to install it also, thanks for the input!
Great tip, I'll save my old one just in case. I've replaced my belt by watching this video. I took it off with the #14 wrench and a another wrench as an extension.
That’s pretty bad if it brakes while driving. You might not live to fix it.
Good thing I was going slow in a small road while it broke
@@HernanHH95 What?
@@HernanHH95 Yeah, that happened to me in my Odyssey. Catastrophic engine damage.
Great tip on the tensioner marker and how to interpret the position of the pointer. Thanks
Excellent video! Bought a new Gates belt and serpentine belt removal tool from O'Reilly and got the job done in ten minutes. 👍
This video was awesome!!! The button totally disintegrated after I parked it in my garage, so it has been stuck there for 6 months because I didn't know how to get it out of the garage since it was in park. I even called a local mechanic I have used in the past, he's pretty good, but he said he would have to get under the car to release the linkage so we could shift the car!!!!!😳😳😳 Since we were in the must of cold winter, that has not happened. Now since I have watched this video, I'm going to go get the parts I need and do it myself!! Ps, I'm a woman, but I know I can do this!! Thank you for great video!!!
Watched this video, rented a EverTough 67061 from O’Reillys (ironically it did NOT contain the 14mm necessary for my 2004 Accord), and replaced it relatively easily with a Bando from AutoZone. Believe or not, my belt is original w 313,149 miles on it! Thank you fine sir for a wonderful tutorial! Saved me about $100...
Thanks for the input and the comment!
Thank god for this man's clear instructions and visual guide! Never thought it could be this easy. Keep it goin mane!
Good instructional video. No need to pay the dealer >$150 to do this job.
They might charge 700 for that
No dealership would charge from $100 for that
@@talexis187 Not true I called a place and they tried to charge me $100 I laughed in their face cuz ain’t no way
Hard to comeby such tutorial videos. Great job
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Great video. I have a 2007 civic with 153000 miles. The original belt is in excellent condition.
Thank you for the comment!
Wow, really about 7 mins to replace your Accord drive belt! We'll be replacing my 2017 Honda Mobilio tomorrow. I'm asking a friend with some tools to help me. We hope it would be just as painless as yours did.
Thanks very much for putting this video together. This will save me $155!!!
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
I was planning on replacing the belt and tensioner but after watching the first couple minutes I realized that probably wasnt necessary! That probably saves me about $80!!!
Thank you! Very helpful! And as you say: patience, patience, patience...
👍
Big dog is the Honda God
I don't know about that, but thanks for the comment!!
Thanks. Getting at the belt around the crank pulley was easy when accessed from the right front wheel well. I also had a really long screwdriver to reach down from the engine bay and give the belt a nudge if it needed it.
My tension release would NOT do that. Still got it out but need to put it on now. That arrow is to the left. So need to replace auto tension and belt. Probably why not working? This is my first time working on cars. Trying to learn. Thanks so much!!
Very helpful video. I was getting some bearing noise and it turned out to be the tensioner pulley itself so replaced both.
Thank you for the comment!
Great instructional video. I really liked your patience explaining this.
I'll try it on my p
03 Accord EX
chooseanameforme888 Thanks!
Awesome video. Followed your steps including buying a tensioner tool. Excellent advise. Would only add that in my case - after replacing belt - the marker arrow fell outside the tolerance marker as shown in your video. However after starting engine and running for a few minutes - the marker fell back into the tolerance marker range. Otherwise thanks for the tutorial.
It is self adjusting, sometimes it needs to adjust itself. Thanks for the comment!
Great detail, informative, and extremely helpful. Yes your efforts were helpful. I need to change the serpentine belt on a 1999 Honda Accord LX. Thanks. 👍🏻😎🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
You make it looks so easy , Thanks Big Dog
Thanks!
That's a problem as it much harder than he made it look with plenty of traps.
Thanks bro I did it step-by-step an I completed the job
Thank you so much for the video and specially for the belt circuit drawing.
For some reason you remind me of a calm Bill Burr, who’s a mechanic. Mechanic Burr 😂
Had some issues with belts from the aftermarket brands. Gates seems to be the closest if not equal to oem in performance.
my belt has 243,000 miles, never changed it but I will today. I've always inspected it and bought a replacement about 5 years ago but just haven't had the need to replace it.
You have done a great job on all of your videos. Thanks so much.
Ron Shansby Thank you.
Another great Big Dog video - best stuff on the net - biggest dog on the porch
lol, thanks!
My arrow is between the two bars exactly where yours was in the video, will it move to the right outside of the bars to let me know to replace belt ? Or should I also preventatively replace mine ? It is old but doesnt look too bad
Im about to replace the entire tensioner assembly on my 03 crv.gone through 4 belts or maybe 5 in the last year.also have an oil leak on the sane side.these things can be a nightmare to put on.but like you say patience,patience,patience.its not THAT hard.great vid by the way
👍
Went through 3 aftermarket brands on that crv tensioner assembly. Sad to say none of them worked like oem. Each of them made the belt squel like a pig in a slaughter house. Oem was more than double the price but definitely worth the cost.
Thanks for the awesome video! I think that's the problem with my Honda - I'm going to grab a belt tomorrow and see if this fixes it. Your videos have given me the confidence to work on my car myself.
Thank you for the comment!
Great how to video. Quick & to the point. Thanks!👍
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
The arrow is to the left of the bars indicated at 1:47 even after replacing the tensioner and belt. Should I be worried?
If the belt broke and some strands got stuck in the pulley, what would be the easiest way to remove it?
Your video was very helpful.....thank you
It's some time later...but thank you for the jprecise instruction. Peace
Thanks for the comment 👍!
What does your Honda maintenance manual say about changing the tensioner pulley, does it recommend replacing along with the serpentine belt? Thanks for the video, I replaced my 2012 Accord belt after watching.
The idler pulley (the part that spins) should be replaced if it makes noise or feels gritty when spinning it by hand with belt off (sometimes it will make a loud obnoxious noise when car is running). Typically the entire Auto-Tensioner assembly (not just the pulley) is replaced if the service indicators that I pointed out are outside of the service limits, if the service indicators bounce back and forth too much when the car is running, if the tensioner does not move smoothly back and forth when moving it with a tool or if the service indicator changes position too much from engine off to engine on. The most tell-tale sign of the Auto-Tensioner assembly needing replacement is a chirping belt, especially at start up or revving engine. Thanks for the comment!
@@BigDog50001 Excellent feedback, thank you, I am indeed hearing a chirp at start-up, lasts a fraction of a second, I will take a closer look this weekend (using your points) and likely order the tensioner assembly. Maybe you have a tensioner YT so I'll look for that also.
thank you, when i get drunk tonight, i will have a drink for you!
👍
Thanks for the video man 👍 I'll change mine this week!
Thank you! In my alternator replacement video I showed some other tools that can be used for this job, I show them at around the 8 minute mark and then I talk about part numbers near the end. ruclips.net/video/lyKm6cn6QiI/видео.html
God bless you, Sir!
thanks
👍
Another great video
great video and great lightin
Completed in 15 min with a short wrench and a long tube
Excellent instructor! Thank you sir.
Thanks for this video.
Thanks brutha , helped alot
No problem 👍!
This video was awesome
I replaced my belt but it is banjo tight. The tensioner indicator however is within the proper range. Should I change the belt again? I got it from O’Reilys
Dziękuję
thank you .. I don't know English very well but everything can be seen and understood.
👍
Can you use another tool for the tensioner?
Thanks, didn't see you untighten or tighten. Is that what the Tensioning tool does, turn it one way to loosen, and release to tighten?
The tool simple pivots the tensioner to loosen the belt.
Thanks, excellent Video.
👍
Thanks for making this
Thank you sir for your help.👍
Thank you for posting this video bro. Was a little frustrating for me but I got it done with your help. It definitely would help to have that specialty tool from Honda to loosen up that tensioner. I tried it with two smaller wrenches connecting them together and that was a real pain in the ass. So I went to harbor freight and bought a longer 14 mm and even that didn't really have quite the length that would enjoy the leverage to make this much simpler. Your comments about the tensioner and the arrows also are very valuable. I noticed that my tensioner arrow is slightly to the left so does that mean that that tensioner is going bad? Because I noticed that I have a slightly rough idle now. Any comment back would be appreciated on that
Yes, you should go for a new tensioner
The Achilles heel is the compressor. In the 7th generation Honda, it is worth getting a V-belt. BANDO 7PK1390 or Continental Contitech Length [mm]: 1400 Replacing it takes a few minutes for a layman after deflecting the automatic tensioner (such a small circle) with a 13 or 14 wrench if I remember.
What kind of timing belt or chain does a 09-14 Accord with 2.4 L have? Very difficult or expensive to replace?
timing chain...
I've done this before . Not difficult. Just make sure you have the correct belt and route it correctly .
My belt won't tighten back on, is my tensioner shot? I tried a new belt and then went to put the old belt back on cause the new one was loose, I have it all on the way it should be and all lined up but won't tense back up
Súper awesome video thank you so much for sharing
Great video thank you
great video!
Thanks man
No problem 👍!
Meant to also note that places like O'Reilly and Avance Auto Parts also rent the belt tensioner tool, so that will save a few bucks too.
👍
Good info about the Honda / Bando part numbers
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
One thing I want to add, when buying the belt, get the correct one for your car. If your car has or doesn’t have air conditioning, get the correct one.
What's the size because I got gates brand 15/16×70-3/4" oc
24mm×1796mm and it was too small
2004 Honda Accord dx 2.4 4cylinder
I like your video, perfect.
Thanks!
Bought the belt from autozone
Duralast Belt 723K7
Hard to put, feels like an inch smaller.
Still fighting
Still having this same issue. Did you get it to work?
You, sir, are an excellent teacher! Thank you!! The only thing in watching your great videos I'm still confused about is what do you mean when you say you have a 14mm and a 17mm "hooked together"?
Two wrenches hooked together to make one long wrench (for additional leverage). Thanks for the comment!
*Read* *my* *comment* if you are about to attempt this DIY. There are critical difficulties missing in this video. I thought i was well prepared after this video but it is missing key points. I'am a DIY and have done several successful repairs and maintenance in the past including full drum brakes but this seemingly easy belt replacement has several traps. It took me 3 hours split over two days to complete it, so i'm letting you know what pitfalls there are :
1) the loan a tool program from auto shops misses the 14 mm socket for Honda (they have 13,15,16,18 mm). Don't use the included crowfoot 14mm, it'll slip and fall off. Also make sure to use a low profile 14 mm socket or you won't be able to clear out the tool when you finish the install. Even if the tool fits when removing the old belt the new belt might set the belt tensioner slightly more against the motor mount and you won't be able to remove the wrench. So make sure your 14 mm socket is low profile enough.
2) The loan tool standard socket push-in attachment sucks (no retainer), use electrical tape to make sure it won't fall down in the car. I lost one 14 mm socket and have not found it. I had to go buy another at home depot which by chance was a few millimeter lower profile. When i finished the job it barely cleared the space against the motor mount and my original 14 mm socket from my toolbox probably wouldn't have.
3) Big helpful trick: I used a super long braker bar handle that i slid down just next to the crank pulley to prevent the new belt to get off it. That is a big help. maybe you can use a narrow broom handle as well.
4) When pushing the belt over the highest pulley with your hand don't think it seems it won't fit. You have to push one ridge at a time then adjust the belt around the other pulley underneath to get a little more slack. Then push again and repeat to get another ridge in. Don't expect it will work by only pushing in one go. Although it did for this guy, it did not for my car.
That's about it. If i had known all this before hand it probably would have taken me 20 min. Always be doubful of these DIY where they complete the job in 10 min, it can be luck or they just got over the difficulty without showing them.
What were you doing when you went uner the car to adjust the belt on the lower pullys? We couldnt see...Were you accessing that at the wheel well or below the car?
joshuag94 Just reaching through wheel well to adjust belt on crank shaft pulley. Have to make sure it is lined up correctly.