Before removing the idle jet screws, I'd turn them in and count the turns to determine what they were set at. Then when reassembling, put them back in as they were set as a starting point.
It is extremely valuable info. I'm eventually gonna run my 351cj/4 spd Torino in the pure stocks and this 4300d carb is the worst part of keeping the car 100% correct. I can rip down, rebuild and tune a holley in my sleep but these carbs are totally greek to me. To say I am a little intimidated is a understatement. Vids like this help alleviate some of the dred I have about them.
That solenoid is there to keep the engine from dieseling when shut off , you set the idle by the solenoid with a 5/16 wrench and unplug the solenoid and set the idle hard stop screw at about 550 rpm, when you shut the car off the carburetor solenoid will let the throttle close and keep it from dieseling, no fuel no dieseling.hope this helps
I recently picked up a 4300D for my 1972 Ranchero GT with 351c Q code and C6 automatic transmission, the carb tag is missing, but the part number on the base is D2WF AA, which decodes for a 72 Cougar. The carburetor is a Motorcraft spreadbore and looks the same that on the Mach I except that it has an electric choke and no solenoid. I wish Pony Carburetors (and Jon) was still around (he rebuilt a Ford 2bbl carb for the 351c in my 73 Cougar) their carburetors looked like new! As for the 4300D, I read an article that Jon did and he said they bogged during acceleration from the factory, but he had a fix. I don't know if he passed that "fix" on to anyone. I think it had something to do with the accelerator pump. Champion carburetor took over the old Pony Carburetors, but their website has been down.
I hope this thread is not too old. But I recently rebuilt the Motorcraft 4350 that came stock on my AMC 401 (‘75 jeep j10). I have it idling almost perfectly. It’s also very clean and smooth when getting into the throttle heavily. And the fuel delivery seems to be great, with good pressure tested right before the carburetor. But I do have a problem when it’s under a load, like when driving, or foot on the break, in drive and getting into the throttle. It Boggs and hesitates. I’ve gone through all the ignition, such as distributor, wiring etc. and I have no vacuum leaks. I’ve gone in and reset the floats to the specs in my manual. So I pulled the carburetor apart to see if I missed some thing. I didn’t realize that the only thing I didn’t replace during the rebuild was the metering rods. And they look pretty bad. I’m just assuming that this could be the problem, but I don’t know. The walker brand rebuild kit that I used did not have new metering rods. And even though I do not know if this is the actual problem, I would like to replace them. What do you guys think? I called NPD to order some, but unfortunately I do not know what size. Does anybody on here has a good suggestion on which metering rods to get. Once again it’s an AMC 401 on a jeep J 10 with a TH 400 transmission. It’s the Quadratrac full time all wheel drive
When it's cold out here in the Mojave desert I'll just give a squirt of gasoline to the air filter or starting fluid because unless it is a manual choke I'll bypass, discard or disable the choke. Out here a choke is nothing but a liability.
I just bought a rebuilt one of these for my 71 cleveland. Not spread bore, but a 4300 none the less. I'm getting a fuel drip every couple of seconds down both throats, causing a idle surge. This is just at curb idle, seems fine under a load. Any suggestions? Thank you for the great video, as well.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for the reply. I was talking about the pin that is used as an axle for the float support bracket. It's at 31:45 in the video, were it is simply pulled out by hand with no tool.
@@AutoRestoMod - sorry, if you don't like it- a hollywood production. a refresher course in the lost art of carburetors excellent. I started in 1983 in at a Carburetor and engine performance shop. 4300's were never quite right a Bunkie Knudsen wanna be quadrajet, it's a real riot
Before removing the idle jet screws, I'd turn them in and count the turns to determine what they were set at. Then when reassembling, put them back in as they were set as a starting point.
I remember this car! Glad you still have it. I think I still have a copy of a magazine with this car in it.
We're going to try and bring it back to a driver version of its former glory.
The vid should be helpful to a lot of folks needing to do this job. Nice work!
It is extremely valuable info. I'm eventually gonna run my 351cj/4 spd Torino in the pure stocks and this 4300d carb is the worst part of keeping the car 100% correct. I can rip down, rebuild and tune a holley in my sleep but these carbs are totally greek to me. To say I am a little intimidated is a understatement. Vids like this help alleviate some of the dred I have about them.
WOW... Thanks.. !
Those Were The Days. !
Hello old friend Lazarus! back in the good old Big Stang days with Robert Meyher.
Would LOVE to have Roberts old Vermillion 429CJ Mach 1. That car was a GAS!
That solenoid is there to keep the engine from dieseling when shut off , you set the idle by the solenoid with a 5/16 wrench and unplug the solenoid and set the idle hard stop screw at about 550 rpm, when you shut the car off the carburetor solenoid will let the throttle close and keep it from dieseling, no fuel no dieseling.hope this helps
I think he's right, this particular one looks like an idle up for accessories. But you could be right. Depends on how it's wired.
Very informative, as all ways.
I recently picked up a 4300D for my 1972 Ranchero GT with 351c Q code and C6 automatic transmission, the carb tag is missing, but the part number on the base is D2WF AA, which decodes for a 72 Cougar. The carburetor is a Motorcraft spreadbore and looks the same that on the Mach I except that it has an electric choke and no solenoid. I wish Pony Carburetors (and Jon) was still around (he rebuilt a Ford 2bbl carb for the 351c in my 73 Cougar) their carburetors looked like new! As for the 4300D, I read an article that Jon did and he said they bogged during acceleration from the factory, but he had a fix. I don't know if he passed that "fix" on to anyone. I think it had something to do with the accelerator pump. Champion
carburetor took over the old Pony Carburetors, but their website has been down.
Try Allstate Carburetor allcarbs.com/?v=920f83e594a1. Jim is pretty good with the 4300D and can restore the carb for you.
I hope this thread is not too old. But I recently rebuilt the Motorcraft 4350 that came stock on my AMC 401 (‘75 jeep j10). I have it idling almost perfectly. It’s also very clean and smooth when getting into the throttle heavily. And the fuel delivery seems to be great, with good pressure tested right before the carburetor. But I do have a problem when it’s under a load, like when driving, or foot on the break, in drive and getting into the throttle. It Boggs and hesitates. I’ve gone through all the ignition, such as distributor, wiring etc. and I have no vacuum leaks. I’ve gone in and reset the floats to the specs in my manual. So I pulled the carburetor apart to see if I missed some thing. I didn’t realize that the only thing I didn’t replace during the rebuild was the metering rods. And they look pretty bad. I’m just assuming that this could be the problem, but I don’t know. The walker brand rebuild kit that I used did not have new metering rods. And even though I do not know if this is the actual problem, I would like to replace them. What do you guys think? I called NPD to order some, but unfortunately I do not know what size. Does anybody on here has a good suggestion on which metering rods to get. Once again it’s an AMC 401 on a jeep J 10 with a TH 400 transmission. It’s the Quadratrac full time all wheel drive
Check the accelerator pump. I have found that sometimes they don't have the correct distance between the arm and the spring.
Try and polish the metering rods with steel wool
Awesome video! However now I am horrified to rebuild my 4300... ethanol is all I can afford at the pump..
Most seals now are set up for ethanol.
When it's cold out here in the Mojave desert I'll just give a squirt of gasoline to the air filter or starting fluid because unless it is a manual choke I'll bypass, discard or disable the choke. Out here a choke is nothing but a liability.
DALE!
Not sure how a properly set up choke is a liability...but if it is working for you....
You could pump the gas pedal to the floor 4 or 5 times to prime the engine with the accelerator pump shot. But be careful not to flood the engine
I just bought a rebuilt one of these for my 71 cleveland. Not spread bore, but a 4300 none the less. I'm getting a fuel drip every couple of seconds down both throats, causing a idle surge. This is just at curb idle, seems fine under a load. Any suggestions? Thank you for the great video, as well.
Need to lower the wet fuel levels in both float bowls approx 1/16 th of an inch to prevent nozzle drip
What is keeping the float pin from falling out? I'm doing one right now and it seems pretty loose in there... Thanks for the video.
If you are referring to the accelerator pump pin, it is a spread pin.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for the reply. I was talking about the pin that is used as an axle for the float support bracket. It's at 31:45 in the video, were it is simply pulled out by hand with no tool.
spare the drama
Life is "drama". I believe in telling a story, for some it invests you in the process. If you don't like how we do it...sorry.
@@AutoRestoMod - sorry, if you don't like it- a hollywood production. a refresher course in the lost art of carburetors excellent. I started in 1983 in at a Carburetor and engine performance shop. 4300's were never quite right a Bunkie Knudsen wanna be quadrajet, it's a real riot
Could you grow out your hair again?