Watching this , and it made me think , i wish my dad was still around to help and offer advice when working on cars , likewise also my grandad , many of the skills , which I have learnt have been passed down from those two great people , both of which are sadly missed.Its also is sad that the younger generation don’t want to learn those skills , which over a life can will save you huge amounts of cash . Love the work James and keep the content coming .
Changed my rear disks and pads today after watching this guide . Saved myself £50 garage labour and for some weird reason actually enjoyed it too . Bought all the stuff i needed ( blue loctite , wire brush , copper grease etc ) off Amazon for about a tenner. The old disks were a mare to get off due to rusting on , had to spray them and leave for 10 minutes and then trusty hammer to pop them off . Had to spray the Carrier and Caliper bolts as well they can be well tight !! Also not sure if it mentions this in the vid but the piston has to be aligned horizontaly when u slide the caliper on so it catches the little pin on the back off the pad ( Worked that out after a few minutes lol ) Great vid tho Thx mate !!
It's good to see how you've grown in confidence over the years. I've been watching a few new videos with the fiesta and I can see the massive improvement over 2 years. Keep up the good work bud
At 17:02 you leave the caliper Piston wound in with the tabs 90 degrees out to where they should be, to allow the retaining lobe to marry up with piston correctly. This proves to be costly when you changed the rear spring. We all make mistakes, as long as we learn from either our own or someone else's then it's all good!
Thanks for the video. I was using a manual to change the pads and disks and it was extremely poor with describing what and how the process for doing this job was under taken. Your video was brilliant.
2004 onwards the torque of rear calliper carrier is 66Nm or 49 lb ft. Note the estate model Mk 3 Mondeo is different rear bake set up. Very clear video.
Great video, clear concise, good narration by someone who knows what they are doing... and some good camera work dad !! Also did I detect a bit of North Suffolk Accent going on..
Bonjour, bonne vidéo dans son ensemble, elle m'a été utile pour le changement de mes plaquettes + disques juste en ce qui concerne la graisse sur la plaquette, il ne faut pas en mettre sur toute la surface mais simplement sur la zone de contact de l'étrier et sur les bords de la plaquette. Aussi, pour le piston, aligner les dents avec la plaquette. Merci pour votre vidéo
Hello this was great and just finished mine which was done on a mondeo 2.0 TDCI MK4 Zetec. I wanted to share some things as this took me hours to be honest,which caused me issues. My reason for changing the rotas and pads was the metal to metal sound at the rear when braking. So when I got to the pads they were bare metal on one side and the rear of the rota reflected this. As I was changing the rotas anyway it didn't matter but just be ready as if you just doing pads you still need to rewind the piston and if you cant the old pads will have to go back in. So my issue was a rusty lower bolt in the caliper mount.Basically I could not get it off as it was on its way to being rounded. it is a 15mm bolt and i soaked it over night with WD ( now a two day job) and this paid off as my first attempt was with a star socket which its best not to use and would suggest using a socket thats the exact fit of the bolt.Lucky for me I had five different ones and I found one that seemed to go on and lock so I went for it and it popped but def use a braker bar from the start after getting all the rust off with a wire-brush. The other issue was as the pads were so bad ( no idea how this wasn't an advisory on MOT six months ago) anyway the piston was so far out the wind back tool locking plate would not fit so I was sitting their with a rusty bolt and two calipers I couldn't wind back and yes long nose pliers and tryed without locking plate but they( I thought were ceased up). During the evening I ordered a kit wind back tool which had a lower profile and some round bolt remover bolts on a next day service from amazon. They go over the top of the round head after a few blows with a hammer you got a new bolt head to put your socket on, but as it turned out I didn't need this stuff as in the morning i just went at it with force and somehow i managed to get the pistons turning but my message is perhaps get these in case .Rubbish about long nose pliers GOOD LUCK WITH THAT. My other tip is Caliper wind back direction as I could find anything concrete on direction and in this example its suggested anti clockwise well on a MK4 both sides are clockwise as if you remember righty tighty is piston down and loose is piston coming forwards this will def help someone. Also pump the brake when finished THEN try the hand brake DONT touch it until you pumped the brakes (make sure you connected it) it will be loose to start but drive around and it should get nice and tight again as did mine. Also have some spare metal pad holders as if you find the originals are broken your day becomes very long.
Great video as I am doing this job plus hubs next week. One point for viewers is that you should set holes on calliper piston ( once pushed back) to line up horizontal as there is a nipple on inner brake pad that slots into this. You left them vertical so the nipple can’t do this. I would presume that the brake pad is now prone to sideways movement? Also it’s worthwhile cleaning chambers where calliper pins go onto. Get a round topped screwdriver. Wrap lint free cloth, push and turn into chamber. This will clean inner hole. Be careful not to dig into sides with screwdriver. This will get all the muck out. Do a similar thing with rubber boots but do it carefully!
Hi Mate Great channel by the way, I'm a subscriber. I know you uploaded this video a while back now but I'd just like to bring a few things to your attention mate. It's not a good idea to force the caliper piston back without using a hose clamp on the on the brake lines. If you just take the reservoir cap off and proceed to force brake fluid back through the master cylinder, you risk flipping/inverting the diagram which may cause total brake failure. And that is quoting you from the Haynes workshop manual. Clamp the brake lines Stick a brake bleeding kit hose on to the brake nipple and crack it open Push or wind in the caliper piston in if working on the rear, and paying attention to the direction of rotation, there are Left hand and Right hand threads. In addition to that, there are notches to be aligned which are opposite to each other. This was missing the tutorial. Always consult the workshop manual for the correct method, tools, tips etc. Especially when working on brakes to avoid doing it incorrectly or causing damage or even worse, potentially making your vehicle dangerous to drive and be out on the roads. I've had a 2005 plate Mk3 Titanium X for nearly 2 years now, it's a lovely car to drive. I've learnt so much from the manual mate. Best £12 I've ever spent!. All the best mate, keep up with the channel. I look forward to seeing more videos and tutorials.
I absolutely look forward to your videos I think there great, the best grease to use on those slider pins is silicone grease,forget red grease. but something is always better than nothing. 👍
Nice to see like minded DIY enthusiasts having a go, and why not?. Just one little tip.....I bought some solid rubber hockey pucks off ebay and use them on my trolley jack head when jacking up my cars - I even managed to buy some pucks with a groove/slit in them for when you have to jack up on a sill seam - I stole the idea from my local tyre shop who use them all the time. BTW, Ive just subscribed ;)
Top class informative video. I enjoy watching Savage Garage videos. where to get that piston wind back tool kit and the cost please. Thank u for the video.
Great stuff. Tackling this job on my ST220 at the moment. Rear caliper is a bit of a faff, since it does not want to turn (have the same brake kit you have). Other than that. Smooth sailing.
Love your videos. Just one thing got cross my mind while watching- I wouldn't do those safety lug nuts to 11kg. They tend to snap. Mine are tightened to 4kg max and they are holding well.
In the Hayes manual it recommends clamping brake hose and using bleed hose to release brake fluid by nipple. The reason being that the reverse push of brake fluid may ruin rubbers in brake slave cylinder. They state this is rare but can occur.
From what I know silicone grease is normally what is used on the slide pins. I also put a dab of copper grease on the hub where the wheel makes contact. I've seen really badly seized tyres.
Good job. A couple of things to note. Avoid using the LM grease it's not really compatible with the rubber, use something like red lithium rubber grease. When reinstalling the same carrier bolts wire brush the old thread lock off as this will impact on torque settings and you won't get a good contact with the new thread lock. I'm not sure if you did but undo the brake reservoir cap when winding the piston in. Also try to find torque values for brake jobs it's one of the important parts of the car so be fairly precise. Other parts of the car apart from engine you can get away with F*cking tight! Keep up the good work though.
Yeah, ideally you should use silicon grease, or lithium grease (the type used in CV joints will work) as "normal" LM grease can make the rubber seals fail.
@@billiardball9650 Yes as when you push the piston back into the caliper it is forcing fluid back into the reservoir, place maybe abit of tissue where you take the cap of to help soak up spillage :)
lithium grease is not much good, Actually it`s really lithium soap mixed in to oil, As you commented, Ideally silicone grease, Or Molybdenum disulfide is really the only two greases that should be used on brake caliper slider pins
When you do the back brakes I assume you release the handbrake first do you have to adjust it up after you change them or dose it automatically adjust great vid
If any of yous are wondering about anything, just get a Haynes manual and it will tell you near side is anti clockwise and far side is clockwise for brake caliper twisty tool thingy.
A couple of questions if I may: 1) Are all the caliper pistons wound back anti-clockwise on the Mondeo? and 2) Are the front pads and disks much the same as the rear to replace? Many thanks! :)
Hi Great video as always, I was watching intently on the rewind tool to work out in which direction they rewind on a mark 4 Got a little confused at 16.11 though, the tool seamed to change from a right hand thread to left hand in the editing.Will they only rewind in one direction and is there any risk of damage if you try to wind the wrong way or is it the case that they just wont go back your advice is greatly appreciated
Thats true, If you dont align the slots you will wonder why its so stuck... Like i did yesterday :D...But, i figured it out becose the disk wont spin if you do it bad. After all i recognized too, that the dust rubber on the calipper valve is broken, so i will need to change them too. I recomanding to buy new one by changing the pads... They are cheap, and it saves time and money. ;)
As someone has already said, piston needed to be turn 90 Degrees to line up with tit on pad (look at the before and after pictures). it will be pressing (only) on the tit (which is there to stop the piston turning in use) this way.
Hi. Didn't you had a video were you replace rear bearing hub? Anyway, I had replaced one yesterday on my ford mondeo and afterwards the ABS lamp keep burning. What can be the issue? I have reconnected ABS properly (I think). And I guess I screwed up something with hand brake, because it doesn't work on that wheel. Could that be the reason?
Do all brake pistons need to be winded back by turning them anticlockwise? I have a 2010 ford focus and the left rear brake piston wouldn't go down by turning it clockwise
Cheers for the video, Going to do my own now. Before winding back the piston, Did you just take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, Did you do anything with the bleed nipples? Cheers
Very nice video. Doesn't rewinding the caliper cause back-pressure in the brake fluid? If so, is it worth opening the bleed nipple or taking the top off the brake fluid header tank?
Kind of hard to say, usually an ignition problem so spark plugs would be my first guess.. Check all vacuum hoses are not split or not attached, give the throttle body a clean, any lights on the dash or not?
+The Savage Garage . I had a look at the sparks plugs. 3 of them are ok. but the one on the 3rd cylinder is really black at the end. There's also some wet black residue in the cylinder.
+Michal Domanski.... I did a compression test. The third cylinder had a really low reading around 60 psi. The others were around 150 psi. Do you know how much it would cost to fix piston rings?
good video... need to my ST220 rear brakes ... but one thing ... invest in some disposable latex gloves to 1 stop you putting grease and dirt back on the disc etc and 2 not to get a slap round your head from the gf when you pickup the cup of tea and make the sink filthy lol
I can't remember if you've said or not, but if you don't get trade in Halfords, go to vistaprint, get a set of cheap business cards done for you as a mobile mechanic - you can use one of these to allow you to apply for a trade card. It may seem like a waste, but it only costs something like £10 and you will make this back very quickly.
could you not of only put in the bottom bolt and used that like a pivot point so you can put the back pad in well seeing what your doing? the close it like a lid and do the top bolt?
I have a 2003 Mondeo, apart from wear and tare I don’t do anything between servicing and MOT. I’ve had the car 5 years very reliable and easy to work on.
Авто/Мото
Watching this , and it made me think , i wish my dad was still around to help and offer advice when working on cars , likewise also my grandad , many of the skills , which I have learnt have been passed down from those two great people , both of which are sadly missed.Its also is sad that the younger generation don’t want to learn those skills , which over a life can will save you huge amounts of cash . Love the work James and keep the content coming .
Changed my rear disks and pads today after watching this guide . Saved myself £50 garage labour and for some weird reason actually enjoyed it too . Bought all the stuff i needed ( blue loctite , wire brush , copper grease etc ) off Amazon for about a tenner.
The old disks were a mare to get off due to rusting on , had to spray them and leave for 10 minutes and then trusty hammer to pop them off . Had to spray the Carrier and Caliper bolts as well they can be well tight !! Also not sure if it mentions this in the vid but the piston has to be aligned horizontaly when u slide the caliper on so it catches the little pin on the back off the pad ( Worked that out after a few minutes lol )
Great vid tho Thx mate !!
It's good to see how you've grown in confidence over the years. I've been watching a few new videos with the fiesta and I can see the massive improvement over 2 years. Keep up the good work bud
Very clear, well explained and encouraging, undoing the reservoir top missed in the clip but u address it all very well. Great stuff. Well done.
At 17:02 you leave the caliper Piston wound in with the tabs 90 degrees out to where they should be, to allow the retaining lobe to marry up with piston correctly.
This proves to be costly when you changed the rear spring.
We all make mistakes, as long as we learn from either our own or someone else's then it's all good!
Ya, a bit of a schoolboy error there and then tried to blame someone else for it when he did the coil spring a few years later! :-)
I love watching these, you do a great job. Keep it up man!
Thanks for the video. I was using a manual to change the pads and disks and it was extremely poor with describing what and how the process for doing this job was under taken. Your video was brilliant.
2004 onwards the torque of rear calliper carrier is 66Nm or 49 lb ft. Note the estate model Mk 3 Mondeo is different rear bake set up. Very clear video.
Another nicely done video James , enjoyed watching them all so far keep them coming! :)
Thanks Mike appreciate it!
great little video,congratulations to the camera person as well, well filmed !!!!
I like your vids, they’re very detailed and informative! 😎👍
Just subscribed. V good video pal with plenty of explanation. Good work dude.
Great video, clear concise, good narration by someone who knows what they are doing... and some good camera work dad !! Also did I detect a bit of North Suffolk Accent going on..
Bonjour, bonne vidéo dans son ensemble, elle m'a été utile pour le changement de mes plaquettes + disques juste en ce qui concerne la graisse sur la plaquette, il ne faut pas en mettre sur toute la surface mais simplement sur la zone de contact de l'étrier et sur les bords de la plaquette. Aussi, pour le piston, aligner les dents avec la plaquette. Merci pour votre vidéo
Good vid mate...I'm doing my brakes all round..just needed watch this refresh my memory hahaha cheers mate....hope my Mrs brings me a brew hahaha
Excellent and informative, helped me change my ST TDCi rear pads and discs with ease, nice job.
Liam Dobinson welcome bud glad it helped!
Hello this was great and just finished mine which was done on a mondeo 2.0 TDCI MK4 Zetec. I wanted to share some things as this took me hours to be honest,which caused me issues. My reason for changing the rotas and pads was the metal to metal sound at the rear when braking. So when I got to the pads they were bare metal on one side and the rear of the rota reflected this. As I was changing the rotas anyway it didn't matter but just be ready as if you just doing pads you still need to rewind the piston and if you cant the old pads will have to go back in. So my issue was a rusty lower bolt in the caliper mount.Basically I could not get it off as it was on its way to being rounded. it is a 15mm bolt and i soaked it over night with WD ( now a two day job) and this paid off as my first attempt was with a star socket which its best not to use and would suggest using a socket thats the exact fit of the bolt.Lucky for me I had five different ones and I found one that seemed to go on and lock so I went for it and it popped but def use a braker bar from the start after getting all the rust off with a wire-brush. The other issue was as the pads were so bad ( no idea how this wasn't an advisory on MOT six months ago) anyway the piston was so far out the wind back tool locking plate would not fit so I was sitting their with a rusty bolt and two calipers I couldn't wind back and yes long nose pliers and tryed without locking plate but they( I thought were ceased up). During the evening I ordered a kit wind back tool which had a lower profile and some round bolt remover bolts on a next day service from amazon. They go over the top of the round head after a few blows with a hammer you got a new bolt head to put your socket on, but as it turned out I didn't need this stuff as in the morning i just went at it with force and somehow i managed to get the pistons turning but my message is perhaps get these in case .Rubbish about long nose pliers GOOD LUCK WITH THAT. My other tip is Caliper wind back direction as I could find anything concrete on direction and in this example its suggested anti clockwise well on a MK4 both sides are clockwise as if you remember righty tighty is piston down and loose is piston coming forwards this will def help someone. Also pump the brake when finished THEN try the hand brake DONT touch it until you pumped the brakes (make sure you connected it) it will be loose to start but drive around and it should get nice and tight again as did mine. Also have some spare metal pad holders as if you find the originals are broken your day becomes very long.
That was brilliant buddy, thanks. John
Great video as I am doing this job plus hubs next week.
One point for viewers is that you should set holes on calliper piston ( once pushed back) to line up horizontal as there is a nipple on inner brake pad that slots into this. You left them vertical so the nipple can’t do this.
I would presume that the brake pad is now prone to sideways movement?
Also it’s worthwhile cleaning chambers where calliper pins go onto. Get a round topped screwdriver. Wrap lint free cloth, push and turn into chamber. This will clean inner hole. Be careful not to dig into sides with screwdriver. This will get all the muck out. Do a similar thing with rubber boots but do it carefully!
Hi Mate
Great channel by the way, I'm a subscriber.
I know you uploaded this video a while back now but I'd just like to bring a few things to your attention mate.
It's not a good idea to force the caliper piston back without using a hose clamp on the on the brake lines.
If you just take the reservoir cap off and proceed to force brake fluid back through the master cylinder, you risk flipping/inverting the diagram which may cause total brake failure. And that is quoting you from the Haynes workshop manual.
Clamp the brake lines
Stick a brake bleeding kit hose on to the brake nipple and crack it open
Push or wind in the caliper piston in if working on the rear, and paying attention to the direction of rotation, there are Left hand and Right hand threads. In addition to that, there are notches to be aligned which are opposite to each other.
This was missing the tutorial.
Always consult the workshop manual for the correct method, tools, tips etc. Especially when working on brakes to avoid doing it incorrectly or causing damage or even worse, potentially making your vehicle dangerous to drive and be out on the roads.
I've had a 2005 plate Mk3 Titanium X for nearly 2 years now, it's a lovely car to drive. I've learnt so much from the manual mate. Best £12 I've ever spent!.
All the best mate, keep up with the channel. I look forward to seeing more videos and tutorials.
Great job, I loved it!!!
I usually avoid using anything on the pads (where you used copper grease) they attract dirt and tend to stick
I absolutely look forward to your videos I think there great, the best grease to use on those slider pins is silicone grease,forget red grease. but something is always better than nothing. 👍
Keep theses informative videos coming!
Thankyou bud appreciate it
Great vid,nice filming.
Love the vids you have inspired me to buy my own Corsa which I'm picking up at the weekend keep them up! :)
That's amazing man! I'm glad to hear it :)
Nice to see like minded DIY enthusiasts having a go, and why not?.
Just one little tip.....I bought some solid rubber hockey pucks off ebay and use them on my trolley jack head when jacking up my cars - I even managed to buy some pucks with a groove/slit in them for when you have to jack up on a sill seam - I stole the idea from my local tyre shop who use them all the time. BTW, Ive just subscribed ;)
before you put break wheel i think you should clean hub fromrust and stuff
Brilliant video..thanks..very clear and well explained. Great camera work.
Top class informative video. I enjoy watching Savage Garage videos. where to get that piston wind back tool kit and the cost please. Thank u for the video.
nice video as always James! keep up the vids also was there a winner for the tool set?
Love your work🤗
Great stuff. Tackling this job on my ST220 at the moment. Rear caliper is a bit of a faff, since it does not want to turn (have the same brake kit you have). Other than that. Smooth sailing.
Great video do you think I will need to buy a full piston rewind back kit Mondeo MK 3 or a single one if I can get one.
Excellent, congratulation!
Love your videos.
Just one thing got cross my mind while watching- I wouldn't do those safety lug nuts to 11kg. They tend to snap. Mine are tightened to 4kg max and they are holding well.
Well done. Cheers
In the Hayes manual it recommends clamping brake hose and using bleed hose to release brake fluid by nipple. The reason being that the reverse push of brake fluid may ruin rubbers in brake slave cylinder.
They state this is rare but can occur.
very good your Chanel congratulations.
From what I know silicone grease is normally what is used on the slide pins. I also put a dab of copper grease on the hub where the wheel makes contact. I've seen really badly seized tyres.
Good job. A couple of things to note. Avoid using the LM grease it's not really compatible with the rubber, use something like red lithium rubber grease. When reinstalling the same carrier bolts wire brush the old thread lock off as this will impact on torque settings and you won't get a good contact with the new thread lock. I'm not sure if you did but undo the brake reservoir cap when winding the piston in. Also try to find torque values for brake jobs it's one of the important parts of the car so be fairly precise. Other parts of the car apart from engine you can get away with F*cking tight! Keep up the good work though.
Yeah, ideally you should use silicon grease, or lithium grease (the type used in CV joints will work) as "normal" LM grease can make the rubber seals fail.
do you take reservoir cap rite off ?
@@billiardball9650 Yes as when you push the piston back into the caliper it is forcing fluid back into the reservoir, place maybe abit of tissue where you take the cap of to help soak up spillage :)
thanks bud
lithium grease is not much good, Actually it`s really lithium soap mixed in to oil, As you commented, Ideally silicone grease, Or Molybdenum disulfide is really the only two greases that should be used on brake caliper slider pins
hope you asked your misses before you borrowed her top
Paddy Bann looks like we have a comedian on the channel
The Savage Garage lol I think we do
@@TheSavageGarage There's always one mate.
🤣🤣🤣
Nice Job Fella....
Regards Baz......
Good job brother. My family went to England for vacation, I would like to sometime in the future. That is where my roots are from.
Thanks man! You should join them next time :) enjoyed your torture testing on those ratchets! Good set of videos. Cheers for watching
+The Savage Garage r u trying to haggard garage
+ilyas idiris sorry?
+The Savage Garage cos the way your removing the calipers r haggard
+ilyas idiris I don't understand what you are on about bud sorry
Good tip with the bungee cord, i'll use that
Great video thank you. Why do the Haynes videos show to bleed out some of the brake fluid via a tube?
Nice work
Thankyou bud
When you do the back brakes I assume you release the handbrake first do you have to adjust it up after you change them or dose it automatically adjust great vid
Another job well done. I think you might have put a little too much copper grease on the back of the pads but other than that I couldn't fault it.
If any of yous are wondering about anything, just get a Haynes manual and it will tell you near side is anti clockwise and far side is clockwise for brake caliper twisty tool thingy.
Good Video, Thanks.
Little tip: copper grease the hub just before you put the wheel on. Makes it easier to take the wheel off if you have to at a later date!
Good job as well you should look at working in this line of work 😎👍🏻
Is the piston on the nearside rear caliper a righthand thread or a lefthand thread as the one you worked on in the video.
On the Mondeo the nearside and offside calipers have opposite threads, so you need two windback tools (one right-handed and one left-handed).
Before you turn in the piston you should put a little bit of grease between the rubber boot and the piston so the boot does not ripe. Great vid btw
A couple of questions if I may:
1) Are all the caliper pistons wound back anti-clockwise on the Mondeo? and
2) Are the front pads and disks much the same as the rear to replace?
Many thanks! :)
like your videos
Well done🤗
Hi Great video as always, I was watching intently on the rewind tool to work out in which direction they rewind on a mark 4 Got a little confused at 16.11 though, the tool seamed to change from a right hand thread to left hand in the editing.Will they only rewind in one direction and is there any risk of damage if you try to wind the wrong way or is it the case that they just wont go back your advice is greatly appreciated
Thank you very helpful indeed,
Piston has two slots in to line up with nipple on back of brake pad but I didn't see you line this up on reassembly.
Thats true, If you dont align the slots you will wonder why its so stuck... Like i did yesterday :D...But, i figured it out becose the disk wont spin if you do it bad.
After all i recognized too, that the dust rubber on the calipper valve is broken, so i will need to change them too. I recomanding to buy new one by changing the pads... They are cheap, and it saves time and money. ;)
Other videos for Mondeo mk4 show the piston being rewound clockwise. You did it anti clockwise. Which is correct? Great videos. Thanks.
Steve Mackins this is mondeo mk3. Maybe mk3 and mk4 have different calipers.
My Mondeo 1.5 Tdci eco with start/stop mk4 is clockwise.
Good Think you
Evening :) what torque wrench is that your using on the wheels?
Good lad
Torque setting for carriers is 66nm (from Sept 2004) and 90nm (to Sept 2004).
As someone has already said, piston needed to be turn 90 Degrees to line up with tit on pad (look at the before and after pictures). it will be pressing (only) on the tit (which is there to stop the piston turning in use) this way.
Hi. Didn't you had a video were you replace rear bearing hub? Anyway, I had replaced one yesterday on my ford mondeo and afterwards the ABS lamp keep burning. What can be the issue? I have reconnected ABS properly (I think). And I guess I screwed up something with hand brake, because it doesn't work on that wheel. Could that be the reason?
There is a mark on caliper, for alignment the piston with brake pads
Do all brake pistons need to be winded back by turning them anticlockwise? I have a 2010 ford focus and the left rear brake piston wouldn't go down by turning it clockwise
Cheers for the video, Going to do my own now.
Before winding back the piston, Did you just take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, Did you do anything with the bleed nipples? Cheers
No problem, i did remove the brake reservoir cap, you can also break open the bleed nipples but i dont usually, and ive never had an issue
Thanks
Very nice video.
Doesn't rewinding the caliper cause back-pressure in the brake fluid? If so, is it worth opening the bleed nipple or taking the top off the brake fluid header tank?
JMUDoc just take the lid off the header tank.
He did take the lid of the header tank as mentioned during the video :)
Wonder if it’s the same on my ford van? Hate paying for these sort of jobs 😀
Do you have to disconnect the hand break cable..?
These halfords jack stands seems to hold up ok? I am thinking of getting a set.
Those type of Halfords stands held the front of my Mondeo 2.0 diesel off the ground well.
is it safe enough to just leave brake resovoir cap of while winding in caliper ?
It's fine, as long as the fluid in the reservoir isn't too full and spills out.
love you videos what happened to the sri
Great vid but You mentioned that you put the link to that piston tool in the description .... It aint there man ..😳
Nice vids 👌joe from tumble Sa146lb
#The Salvage Garage. Another nice video! I've got a Vauxhall corsa sri that runs rough on idle. What do you think the causes may be?
Kind of hard to say, usually an ignition problem so spark plugs would be my first guess.. Check all vacuum hoses are not split or not attached, give the throttle body a clean, any lights on the dash or not?
+The Savage Garage . I had a look at the sparks plugs. 3 of them are ok. but the one on the 3rd cylinder is really black at the end. There's also some wet black residue in the cylinder.
Did you check cylinder compression? It looks like piston ring
+Michal Domanski.... I did a compression test. The third cylinder had a really low reading around 60 psi. The others were around 150 psi. Do you know how much it would cost to fix piston rings?
The black residue I mentioned before is oil. That's what's causing the spark plug on cylinder 3 to be really foul..
good video... need to my ST220 rear brakes ... but one thing ... invest in some disposable latex gloves to 1 stop you putting grease and dirt back on the disc etc and 2 not to get a slap round your head from the gf when you pickup the cup of tea and make the sink filthy lol
Are them slots on the caliper piston suppose to line up with the round lugs on the outside of the brake pad?
No
@@michaldomanski8212 Yes!
What's the song called
There are 4 bolts
Little are 30Nm
Bolts of support need 80 Nm
How did you know that the caliper piston had a left-hand screw?
+TheWertyu2007 yea the passenger side wound back clockwise so the drivers side is opposite :) thanks for commenting
Nice! But have you ever heard of rubber gloves?
KoKuRyUhAMasTer yes. I thought 💭 the same thing and why is he doing in his holiday,day clothes and with no mat to kneel on
Hello
Everything is cool, but with this copper grease you were on the max
i see you took advantage of the halfords £40 jack,axle stands etc.
Yes! I got mine last year and have used it a lot! Great little set for the money :)
I can't remember if you've said or not, but if you don't get trade in Halfords, go to vistaprint, get a set of cheap business cards done for you as a mobile mechanic - you can use one of these to allow you to apply for a trade card.
It may seem like a waste, but it only costs something like £10 and you will make this back very quickly.
do u got something wrong?
Front ones are the same right?
Basically, the piston on the front just pushes in.
Ok
Easy when you know how .lol thank you
I would of thought it's 90 nw on the torque wrench please check before you do it
Good job, my only criticism is you are dressed like a member of one direction,
peacockealot :)))
How mad does he sound
could you not of only put in the bottom bolt and used that like a pivot point so you can put the back pad in well seeing what your doing? the close it like a lid and do the top bolt?
I have a feeling one day you are going to go through the floor of a car with that jack go and get a wide platform jack £99 from halfords,
He said to keep the grease of the pad then touches the pad with his greasy finger!
Ford = Fix or repair daily
Only if you do a crap first job in the first place Pritesh. This video was detailed and informative. Job done...
I have a 2003 Mondeo, apart from wear and tare I don’t do anything between servicing and MOT. I’ve had the car 5 years very reliable and easy to work on.
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You don’t put copper crease on the faces of the pads
Those pads and discs were not the worst. A bit of preventative maintenance is always good though.