The wooden table could be warped from the weight of the lathe base. When you transfer it to a metal base, you’ll find that you’ll be scraping again. Like how you machined the rails. You need a precision stone to work everything off. Then you’ll know that everything is straight and flat, so when you move the base, all you’ll need to do is adjust it back to flatness.
Great work! More tips if you don't mind: - Don't make the mistake of chasing microns with low grade linear guides. Grade H rails have between 12-18µm running error over 1500mm (you know for sure they have at least 12µm error otherwise they would be P grade). - Avoid measuring parallelism between rails with a DTI on a single carriage, the slightest rolling error will be amplified and give you bogus readings. Use at least 2 carriages generously spaced bolted to a steel plate to average the errors.
can you please describe more of the process of install precision linear guide rails. Im new to this and can't find any info of installing linear rails to epoxy granite. thanks. trying to get 10-to 20µm accuracy and repeatability.
Good job mate ! I suggest you don't rush things out; it's a slow and painful job, but in the end you will love it. When you get fed up with it and feel like quitting, remember that you'd rather spend few more hours on it than being sorry for many years to come. Keep up !
Chipload, were the bars you used ground flat and straight or was it bar stock you machined to be flat prior to casting into the bed? Just curious if, per the comment from Athrun, below (i.e. the flexing of the wood mold bottom and/or the bench you cast it on) caused the bars to no longer be flat or if you started with something like hot or cold rolled bars that likely were not flat as recieved. Or was it shrinkage of the UHPC?
I started off some cold rolled bars, they were not ground or milled flat because you will get some deflection anyways. So the plan was to machine them flat after the casting right from the start. I would do it again this way but from what i've learned and also the suggestions in the comments here is my recipe for the next time: 1) wooden mold is okay 2) put it on a as flat as possible base not on a wooden workbench as it's a lot of weight 3) shorten the screws i used to anchor the steel parts to half length. this is important as shrinkage (it's not much but it is there) in the concrete will not pull as much on them. 4) machine the final cast base but also spend more time to fine adjust the CNC. 5) accept that all of this is sort of a compromise between money spent, machine size availability, etc. - hope it helps! all the best.
Nice job so far 👍. I may have missed this in an earlier video, but what size are you aiming for (i.e. swing x estimated distance between centers)? Also, since I'm stateside, swing is usually expressed in diameter, so if you specify in radius, please let me know (I mostly do imperial, but don't worry, I can convert metric to my language 🤣).
Thanks! I'm opting for a 200mm (8 inch) chuck, swing is not yet completely fixed but i should be able to spin a 400mm disc (16 inch) and distance between centers will be 700mm (28 inch) maybe a hair less. All the best, cheers!
@@CHIPLOAD Thanks for the quick reply. That sounds like a nice size lathe. So far I'm impressed with your progress. Can't wait to watch this come together.
Tip nr 1 U can use angle grinder etc to speed up the process Tip nr 2 Dont scrape straight lines Always minimum a banana at the begining And small " ✓ " upside downat the end.....u can start with it but it will be pain to do Tip nr 3 Few passes of sanding/ diamond stone can help make it super flat Or using straigh edge with sandpaper glued to it (sometimes people use granite surface plate to do both sides) can make huge difference if u know what u doing
With all do respect, you are doing this wrong. The project has already been done but here's for any future project should you try to attempt it: Next time, use a granite slab as wide as the lathe being casted instead of casting it on wood which flexes end hence you have to deal with cupping and scraping for 14 passes . . WOOD is NOT a GOOD Material as a base for a project in the 21st century Marble/Granite
yeah it was the first time and i learned quite a lot. it is also a bit about what materials you have available and what amount of money you want to throw at a project. i don't think the wood is that much of a problem i was simply missing a trusty reference (long enough straight edge) when building and adjusting my CNC mill. if that error would have been less it would have made my life a lot easier. live and learn they say :)
@@CHIPLOAD It looks like I wasn't clear, I was referencing the wood bench and not the wooden mold. The weight of the concrete and steel must have flexed the wood bench at the time of casting and when the concrete dried it took the shape of the cupped flexed wood creating more problems for you to correct Next time try putting a granite slab on a tiled clean floor, put the wooden mold on the granite slab and then do the casting. it will take effort to lift it, true, but you won't have to correct it too much
@@athrunzala5337 Good tip, but how much would such a granite slab cost? Couldnt he just use that same granite slab to attach his stock to and then the rails? I'm no engineer and new to building CNC.. just been watching a few videos when I came across a guy in the comments saying that the youtuber making the CNC shouldve went the route of using Granite or epoxy granite instead of using square aluminum tubing. I'm not here watching this video to learn what to use to build a CNC so I can eventually build a lathe and mill as I learn more. The guy Im referencing is Ivan Miranda who 3D printed his CNC parts.. then once it was built made the parts out of metal. Thats when I learned what I thought was a good idea is almost a waste of effort if its going to get inferior results compared to using epoxy/granite. Many people in his comments even said to use steel tubing instead of aluminum, or even cast iron.. Amazing what one can learn reading the comments.. You learn more in the comments than from the video itself. I love it when Engineers are on youtube sharing their knowledge.
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The wooden table could be warped from the weight of the lathe base. When you transfer it to a metal base, you’ll find that you’ll be scraping again. Like how you machined the rails. You need a precision stone to work everything off. Then you’ll know that everything is straight and flat, so when you move the base, all you’ll need to do is adjust it back to flatness.
Great work!
More tips if you don't mind:
- Don't make the mistake of chasing microns with low grade linear guides. Grade H rails have between 12-18µm running error over 1500mm (you know for sure they have at least 12µm error otherwise they would be P grade).
- Avoid measuring parallelism between rails with a DTI on a single carriage, the slightest rolling error will be amplified and give you bogus readings. Use at least 2 carriages generously spaced bolted to a steel plate to average the errors.
Thanks a lot for the tips! Will keep it in mind especially the grade of the rails...
can you please describe more of the process of install precision linear guide rails. Im new to this and can't find any info of installing linear rails to epoxy granite. thanks. trying to get 10-to 20µm accuracy and repeatability.
Keep on going man, need more videos like this!
Thanks!
WOW 👍 I just can't say anything for your efforts.
Thanks! :)
just found your series! cant wait to see more
Thanks man!
Good job mate ! I suggest you don't rush things out; it's a slow and painful job, but in the end you will love it. When you get fed up with it and feel like quitting, remember that you'd rather spend few more hours on it than being sorry for many years to come. Keep up !
Thanks!
Nice job, maybe soon i Will watch the lathe
Thanks man!
i want more... videos... hehehe nice job man..
Thanks man, working on it :)
Super Nice Movie. Und echt spannend.
Excellent. Keep going
Thanks, will do :)
Chipload, were the bars you used ground flat and straight or was it bar stock you machined to be flat prior to casting into the bed? Just curious if, per the comment from Athrun, below (i.e. the flexing of the wood mold bottom and/or the bench you cast it on) caused the bars to no longer be flat or if you started with something like hot or cold rolled bars that likely were not flat as recieved. Or was it shrinkage of the UHPC?
I started off some cold rolled bars, they were not ground or milled flat because you will get some deflection anyways. So the plan was to machine them flat after the casting right from the start. I would do it again this way but from what i've learned and also the suggestions in the comments here is my recipe for the next time: 1) wooden mold is okay 2) put it on a as flat as possible base not on a wooden workbench as it's a lot of weight 3) shorten the screws i used to anchor the steel parts to half length. this is important as shrinkage (it's not much but it is there) in the concrete will not pull as much on them. 4) machine the final cast base but also spend more time to fine adjust the CNC. 5) accept that all of this is sort of a compromise between money spent, machine size availability, etc. - hope it helps! all the best.
@@CHIPLOAD Yes, very helpful. Thanks!
Super
Thank you!
Nice job so far 👍. I may have missed this in an earlier video, but what size are you aiming for (i.e. swing x estimated distance between centers)? Also, since I'm stateside, swing is usually expressed in diameter, so if you specify in radius, please let me know (I mostly do imperial, but don't worry, I can convert metric to my language 🤣).
Thanks! I'm opting for a 200mm (8 inch) chuck, swing is not yet completely fixed but i should be able to spin a 400mm disc (16 inch) and distance between centers will be 700mm (28 inch) maybe a hair less. All the best, cheers!
@@CHIPLOAD Thanks for the quick reply. That sounds like a nice size lathe. So far I'm impressed with your progress. Can't wait to watch this come together.
Tip nr 1
U can use angle grinder etc to speed up the process
Tip nr 2
Dont scrape straight lines
Always minimum a banana at the begining
And small " ✓ " upside downat the end.....u can start with it but it will be pain to do
Tip nr 3
Few passes of sanding/ diamond stone can help make it super flat
Or using straigh edge with sandpaper glued to it (sometimes people use granite surface plate to do both sides) can make huge difference if u know what u doing
Thanks for the tips, i have plenty of material left to try :)
@@CHIPLOAD how is the progress going :D
@@ErtsenPlayGames It is "going" but not as fast as i would like to, stay tuned :) Cheers!
is it an optical illusion or is that steel rail mount flexing when your scraping ?
Where exactly? It is rock solid and I hope it stays like that 😅
@@CHIPLOAD @2:40 when you start scraping. I can't tell of the metal is tilting in or what but it looks odd. Great build by the way!!
@@rshotty9039 Ah gotcha, that's my wooden workbench on wheels that's moving a bit 😅
With all do respect, you are doing this wrong. The project has already been done but here's for any future project should you try to attempt it: Next time, use a granite slab as wide as the lathe being casted instead of casting it on wood which flexes end hence you have to deal with cupping and scraping for 14 passes . . WOOD is NOT a GOOD Material as a base for a project in the 21st century
Marble/Granite
yeah it was the first time and i learned quite a lot. it is also a bit about what materials you have available and what amount of money you want to throw at a project. i don't think the wood is that much of a problem i was simply missing a trusty reference (long enough straight edge) when building and adjusting my CNC mill. if that error would have been less it would have made my life a lot easier. live and learn they say :)
@@CHIPLOAD It looks like I wasn't clear, I was referencing the wood bench and not the wooden mold. The weight of the concrete and steel must have flexed the wood bench at the time of casting and when the concrete dried it took the shape of the cupped flexed wood creating more problems for you to correct
Next time try putting a granite slab on a tiled clean floor, put the wooden mold on the granite slab and then do the casting.
it will take effort to lift it, true, but you won't have to correct it too much
@@athrunzala5337 Good tip, but how much would such a granite slab cost? Couldnt he just use that same granite slab to attach his stock to and then the rails? I'm no engineer and new to building CNC.. just been watching a few videos when I came across a guy in the comments saying that the youtuber making the CNC shouldve went the route of using Granite or epoxy granite instead of using square aluminum tubing. I'm not here watching this video to learn what to use to build a CNC so I can eventually build a lathe and mill as I learn more. The guy Im referencing is Ivan Miranda who 3D printed his CNC parts.. then once it was built made the parts out of metal. Thats when I learned what I thought was a good idea is almost a waste of effort if its going to get inferior results compared to using epoxy/granite. Many people in his comments even said to use steel tubing instead of aluminum, or even cast iron.. Amazing what one can learn reading the comments.. You learn more in the comments than from the video itself. I love it when Engineers are on youtube sharing their knowledge.