Hey Johnny! Took one of my Mosins (1898 manufactured Izhevsk M91, Finn Capture) to the range with handloads for the first time today. The personal enjoyment that comes from shooting your own ammo out of a 121 year rifle is huge! These videos were the inspiration. Keep it up!
Also, just wanted to let you know, that your vids really helped me get into reloading. I am starting off loading .308 for my rem 700. And soon I will be reloading some 30-06 for my newly purchased m1 garand. I just got done taking the whole thing down, cleaning, and re oiling the stock, and all of the steel. This thing isn't as pretty as yours, but has a beretta barrel and bolt that was installed in 66 that looks like it might have seen maybe 20 rounds. I am just stoked. Thank You for all the info, and keep these vids coming.
One thing to take into account.. as the day Moved by the Sun Changed position, also I see that it was getting into the late day early evening as you finished up. The brighter the Sun is Makes the target look smaller, So you shoot tighter groups. as the sun went Dimmer the Target looked Bigger and allowed you to see more of it as it was shadowed making your shot group wider. I think also bedding and trigger is a culprit as well. Plus you first shots are always going to be taken with more care than your last shots sometimes your mind says "Now, Now get it NOW!!" and you jerk the trigger. I bet that gun will shoot one hole groups with the right load combination. Good Video!!
Great video, glad you are making them once again! I think if you watch the video and the other videos you have made will figure out what is going on with your shooting.
My Mosin 1942 Sporter can shoot about 1MOA with Winchester White Box ammo but then again I took it out of the factory stock. You may find that using about 47 Grains of Varget under a Sierra .311 180 Grain Pro Hunter may work the best. IMR 4064 and 4350 also work well. I did find the best thing I ever did with my Mosin is Scope it with a Rock Solid Mount, and put a Timney Trigger in it. I also floated the barrel, pillar bedded it, and used Brownells Steel Bed on the action all in a Boyd's stock. Now that everything is immovable action-wise and the trigger breaks like glass, it shoots WAY better. My bore slugs .3135 and is a 1942 M91/30 with the original military crown and was not counter bored. I have 25 loads worked up that I am going to test as soon as it gets warm enough to shoot outside. I am trying the 150gr Pro hunter bullets ranging from 45-47 grains increments at .5grs set .015-.020 off the lands.
At the start of the video I was getting a vibe that your were pissed but when you started loading and shooting I got a vibe that you were enjoying your self
You either flipped the video or the targets on the last two loads with the 312 Hornady's the video shown and then the target discussions those two got mixed up somehow
I have a 1941 M91/30 that I reload for. I use Sierra 150gr SPFB .308 diameter bullet with Varget and I’m using Winchester magnum primers and get amazing results. Shooting between 1 - 1.5 inch groups at 100yds. Give it a shot.
I still just cannot believe how well Reloader 15 works for you. I've tried it, same bullets and everything and at lower charges it doesn't ignite, and at higher charges it detonates-super high pressure signs, not a proper controlled burn at all.
Nice work with reloading for the 91/30. I have a Tula mfg. (1943) with a MINT bore (not- counter bored) and I have been working up some loads with 174 gr. Hornaday SP bullets. I'm getting good results with IMR 4064. Do you have a favorite bullet/ powder combo for this rifle & caliber?
Interesting... I wonder if the shift lower left from the hotter loads especially the PPU is from barrel contact point somewhere? A increase in harmonics causing contact? It's very consistent though. What do you think? Thanks for sharing
On bullet seating depth, have you ever pulled a bullet out of a factory or military lose, if so you might be surprised at how much bullet is in the case.
When I made this video I think I was using PowerDirector. I've since switched to Premiere Pro. If you want something free to play around with try out HitFilm. hitfilm.com/
Have you experimented with steel cases with any of your loads. I've been removing the military bullets and reloading them with sporting bullets and replacing the powder with various different loads. Some work well and some don't. I have found that steel does not seal the chamber as well as brass and some light loads will not work. I have to reach a point in which the steel expands and seals and the bullet has a chance to get out of the barrel before it pulls away from the chamber. Simply reducing the original load did not work at all. I found slower powders keep the pressure up farther down the barrel and I've had limited success with that. Lots of unburned powder leaves the muzzle I'm sure but it keeps the chamber sealed. Really fast powders like 2400 seems to work for some reason. I know it's all burning up and the case can't possibly be sealing all the way but it doesn't appear to be leaking back much. I'm trying to duplicate 30-30 ballistics to reduce recoil on the carbine.
I just traded for an old 91-30 and I didn't get the cleaning rod or bayonet with it. It seems to shoot to point of aim at 250 yards as that is about all I've shot it so far with several different types and weights of ammo. The very best accuracy I've found with it was with PPU ammo I got from SG Ammo and they claimed it was from a cancelled military contract. It has brass case, copper over lead bullets and berdan primers. So all PPU is not boxer primed. I also bought several boxes of Tula which is also Accurate but does shoot about a foot to the left at that 250 yards. My real question for you or any of your viewers that know is why does the bayonet make such a heck of a difference in Point of Impact with these rifles? Is it just the weight? Barrel harmonics? Muzzle blast at play with it? Or what? Every ammo I shoot in it seems to shoot to a different POI for some reason. One shot about two feet high.
Suggestion, try those .312s with 41 and 41.5 grains of R15. Also, try loading 123 gr .311s, see how they do. Suggest 1 grain at a time 40-45 maybe higher if case capacity allows, then when you find the sweet spot adjust 0.3grains. i use 35gr of 1680 for my 762x39. And h4895 or varget for my 3006&308. Have yet to reload 54r brass (newly acquired MN) with varget/h4895.
Great videos! I'm just getting into reloading 7.62x54 and have a question about the expander you are using for .312 bullets. I have a set of 7.62x54 Redding dies, my Mosin slugged at .312. Can I use the Lee .312 expander with my Redding dies?
Thank for your reply. I went ahead and ordered a separate neck sizing die that will bump them out to .311 which should minimize the bulge when loading .312.
Johnny Your shooting technique is looking a little inconsistent. I think your placing the the front in different position it may only be a small difference But small differences make a world of difference. My humble opinion.
RL15 acts strangely in the 54R. That was why you had the carbon on the body of the brass you mentioned. You have to seat the bullet deeper than you did. Seat to what the book calls for. It needs that jump to build the initial psi build. The throat is sooooo long on these rifles. This leads to a drop in pressure just before the bullet reaches the throat. The carbon you seen is a WARNING. What this leads to is a pressure excursion. Or what some call a SEE. Be very careful loading the bullets out to try to reach the rifling. You will not like what happens.
Mmm the "meant to be shot with bayonet" i thought applied to the model 38 and 44 carbines that has the bayo attached already. I tend to think here you're not reaching the limits of your ability, but rather the particular rifle. I'd like to see it done with the ole timney trigger or, just a different mosin
Yeah, when I'm shooting a ton I like to go to the range. None of my neighbors has ever complained, but I'd like to keep it that way. Also, the range has much better benches! I need to build a nice bench in my backyard.
I envy you (in a friendly way) - in my country it is banned to shoot outside of certified (expensive - you pay per hour) ranges even If you have many square miles/km of own land and proper bullet catcher in place. You shoot outside of certified range even in most secure manner possible (most of them are open 9-5 so I work and cannot go there. You also need to show your license and register with the reception each time you are going to use the range) , your license and your guns are immediately taken away from you and you to go through licensing procedure again (over 1000 $ and 10 months of wait and paperwork) or are banned from owning guns ever after.
A friend told me that I shouldn't put reloaded ammo in the magazine because the recoil (especially after the fourth round) will seat the bullet further in based on his measurements. Better to load each round at a time. I doubt it makes that much of a difference but might when comparing.
Nonsense! There is nothing factory ammo can do that we can't replicate with reloads. There are some common reloading mistakes that can cause bullet setback but they should be easily remedied with proper reloading procedures. It's certainly a good idea to keep an eye on that and make sure you're not having setback issues. The easiest way to cause that problem would be to use a .311 expander with .308 bullets. You won't get proper neck tension on your bullets! I would bet $50 that's probably what caused your friend's issue. Match your bullet diameter to your expander diameter and you won't have that issue. The second thing that could cause it would be to not seat your bullets deep enough. This isn't usually an issue unless you're shooting particularly short bullets. You just want to make sure you've got plenty of the bearing surface of the bullet seated below the mouth of the case. A good rule of thumb is seating bullets at least as deep as the diameter of the bullets. So, basically seat the bullet at least .3" down into the case for a 30 caliber. That's just a rule of thumb, though...so don't obsess over it. The OAL's you'll find in reloading manuals will generally be that deep or deeper. The third thing that can safeguard against bullet setback is crimp! Crimp isn't magic. If you're using a .311 expander and .308 bullets, you're not going to solve your problem by putting on a heavy crimp. But, if you've got proper neck tension and a proper seating depth, a nice crimp can give you even more confidence that your bullets aren't going to have setback issues. You've got your friend's advice and you've got mine. The best way to go about reloading is to take all advice and opinions with a grain of salt. Load up some rounds and go test it for yourself!
I'm starting to understand how the cannelure is supposed to work with the crimp. This should help with any recoil effects that might occur. Maybe something to test.
its not the best you can get, true your bolt and bolt face so the blot is holding the cartridge center, then true the barrel to the bolt, drop a better trigger in it, I went to a Timney. then shoot this same load.
THE HEAT AND THE PRESSURE BEHIND THE .308 SIZE BULLET WHEN YOU ARE FIRING, MAKES THE BACK OF THE BULLET EXPAND WHERE IT SEALS VERY WELL. THE .311 BULLET AND .312 I THINK MAKES IT TOO TIGHT AND ACTUALLY CREATES TOO MUCH PRESSURE AND GOD ONLY KNOWS THE AMOUNT OF COPPER FOULING YIU WILL GET.
@@j.rob.5943 YES, IT WILL STILL EXPAND FROM THE HOT GASES BEHIND THE BULLET TO SEAL THE BORE. I USE 168 MATCH BULLETS ALL THE TIME AND WORKS JUST FINE, I ACHIEVE AMAZING GROUPS. YOU SHOULD TRY IT YOU WILL BE AMAZED!!
@@zomgz932 FYI, MY NAGANT SHOT 3 ROUNDS 3/4 OR BETTER 5 SHOTS FOR 1 MOA TO 1 1/2 . THAT'S WITH A 4X P.U. SCOPED RIFLE 168 SIERRA MATCH WITH IMR 4895 POWDER OUT OF THE SIERRA MANUAL.
+T Allen my box i assume you mean magazine....because plastic isnt going to do FUCK ALL to brass. sure, you could place every shell directly into the chamber....kissing each one as you pull it out of the box.... or you could just buy some cheap PPU, and reload the brass.....and not have to fuck around
***** Good thing you don't kiss each one every time YOU pull it out the box, because that would wear it out too. The reference was to the amount of times you did it to fill the video time anyhow.
Hey Johnny! Took one of my Mosins (1898 manufactured Izhevsk M91, Finn Capture) to the range with handloads for the first time today. The personal enjoyment that comes from shooting your own ammo out of a 121 year rifle is huge! These videos were the inspiration. Keep it up!
This channel deserves more subscribers, lots of people want to see guns shooting, I think reloading is just as fun
Also, just wanted to let you know, that your vids really helped me get into reloading. I am starting off loading .308 for my rem 700. And soon I will be reloading some 30-06 for my newly purchased m1 garand. I just got done taking the whole thing down, cleaning, and re oiling the stock, and all of the steel. This thing isn't as pretty as yours, but has a beretta barrel and bolt that was installed in 66 that looks like it might have seen maybe 20 rounds. I am just stoked. Thank You for all the info, and keep these vids coming.
Thanks for the videos. You have inspired me to spend more time with my Mosin. its a pretty good shooter too. I like the old rifles. :)
Love what you're doing here !!!
Best reloading content on the net.
Nice to see you! Great video as always
One thing to take into account.. as the day Moved by the Sun Changed position, also I see that it was getting into the late day early evening as you finished up. The brighter the Sun is Makes the target look smaller, So you shoot tighter groups. as the sun went Dimmer the Target looked Bigger and allowed you to see more of it as it was shadowed making your shot group wider. I think also bedding and trigger is a culprit as well. Plus you first shots are always going to be taken with more care than your last shots sometimes your mind says "Now, Now get it NOW!!" and you jerk the trigger. I bet that gun will shoot one hole groups with the right load combination. Good Video!!
Great video, glad
you are making them once again! I think if you watch the video and the other videos you have made will figure out what is going on with your shooting.
My Mosin 1942 Sporter can shoot about 1MOA with Winchester White Box ammo but then again I took it out of the factory stock. You may find that using about 47 Grains of Varget under a Sierra .311 180 Grain Pro Hunter may work the best. IMR 4064 and 4350 also work well. I did find the best thing I ever did with my Mosin is Scope it with a Rock Solid Mount, and put a Timney Trigger in it. I also floated the barrel, pillar bedded it, and used Brownells Steel Bed on the action all in a Boyd's stock. Now that everything is immovable action-wise and the trigger breaks like glass, it shoots WAY better. My bore slugs .3135 and is a 1942 M91/30 with the original military crown and was not counter bored. I have 25 loads worked up that I am going to test as soon as it gets warm enough to shoot outside. I am trying the 150gr Pro hunter bullets ranging from 45-47 grains increments at .5grs set .015-.020 off the lands.
At the start of the video I was getting a vibe that your were pissed but when you started loading and shooting I got a vibe that you were enjoying your self
Very nice video and very helpful!
very good, man!!
You either flipped the video or the targets on the last two loads with the 312 Hornady's the video shown and then the target discussions those two got mixed up somehow
Got your last two targets reversed with the .312's.
I have a 1941 M91/30 that I reload for. I use Sierra 150gr SPFB .308 diameter bullet with Varget and I’m using Winchester magnum primers and get amazing results. Shooting between 1 - 1.5 inch groups at 100yds. Give it a shot.
I still just cannot believe how well Reloader 15 works for you. I've tried it, same bullets and everything and at lower charges it doesn't ignite, and at higher charges it detonates-super high pressure signs, not a proper controlled burn at all.
Nice work with reloading for the 91/30. I have a Tula mfg. (1943) with a MINT bore (not- counter bored) and I have been working up some loads with 174 gr. Hornaday SP bullets. I'm getting good results with IMR 4064. Do you have a favorite bullet/ powder combo for this rifle & caliber?
Interesting... I wonder if the shift lower left from the hotter loads especially the PPU is from barrel contact point somewhere? A increase in harmonics causing contact? It's very consistent though. What do you think? Thanks for sharing
John where do you purchase your bullets for reloading 7.62X54R? Your information is very,very helpful great videos!
On bullet seating depth, have you ever pulled a bullet out of a factory or military lose, if so you might be surprised at how much bullet is in the case.
20:22 it looks like you are at Hickok45's range! LOL
What kinda video editing program you use to put the other video of the target being shot in the corner of your videos?
When I made this video I think I was using PowerDirector. I've since switched to Premiere Pro. If you want something free to play around with try out HitFilm. hitfilm.com/
Have you experimented with steel cases with any of your loads. I've been removing the military bullets and reloading them with sporting bullets and replacing the powder with various different loads. Some work well and some don't. I have found that steel does not seal the chamber as well as brass and some light loads will not work. I have to reach a point in which the steel expands and seals and the bullet has a chance to get out of the barrel before it pulls away from the chamber. Simply reducing the original load did not work at all. I found slower powders keep the pressure up farther down the barrel and I've had limited success with that. Lots of unburned powder leaves the muzzle I'm sure but it keeps the chamber sealed. Really fast powders like 2400 seems to work for some reason. I know it's all burning up and the case can't possibly be sealing all the way but it doesn't appear to be leaking back much. I'm trying to duplicate 30-30 ballistics to reduce recoil on the carbine.
I just traded for an old 91-30 and I didn't get the cleaning rod or bayonet with it. It seems to shoot to point of aim at 250 yards as that is about all I've shot it so far with several different types and weights of ammo. The very best accuracy I've found with it was with PPU ammo I got from SG Ammo and they claimed it was from a cancelled military contract. It has brass case, copper over lead bullets and berdan primers. So all PPU is not boxer primed. I also bought several boxes of Tula which is also Accurate but does shoot about a foot to the left at that 250 yards. My real question for you or any of your viewers that know is why does the bayonet make such a heck of a difference in Point of Impact with these rifles? Is it just the weight? Barrel harmonics? Muzzle blast at play with it? Or what? Every ammo I shoot in it seems to shoot to a different POI for some reason. One shot about two feet high.
174 gr 312 rn 45.5 4895
Do you use sand bags at the shoulder to make stable the rifle at the shoulder?
Suggestion, try those .312s with 41 and 41.5 grains of R15. Also, try loading 123 gr .311s, see how they do. Suggest 1 grain at a time 40-45 maybe higher if case capacity allows, then when you find the sweet spot adjust 0.3grains. i use 35gr of 1680 for my 762x39. And h4895 or varget for my 3006&308. Have yet to reload 54r brass (newly acquired MN) with varget/h4895.
Great videos! I'm just getting into reloading 7.62x54 and have a question about the expander you are using for .312 bullets. I have a set of 7.62x54 Redding dies, my Mosin slugged at .312. Can I use the Lee .312 expander with my Redding dies?
Unfortunately the Lee expanders are much different than Redding. You might want to give Redding a call. Hopefully they've got a solution for you.
Thank for your reply. I went ahead and ordered a separate neck sizing die that will bump them out to .311 which should minimize the bulge when loading .312.
Try free floating the barrel channel . And bed the action to the stock. Will help big time.
Hey Johnny by any chance did you ever try .310 diameter bullets?
What do commercial loads have in diameter?
Is there a chance with going to the larger bullets to wear out the barrel or hurt the lands and grooves??
Depends on the individual barrel. My mosin is .316"
Johnny Your shooting technique is looking a little inconsistent. I think your placing the the front in different position it may only be a small difference But small differences make a world of difference. My humble opinion.
RL15 acts strangely in the 54R. That was why you had the carbon on the body of the brass you mentioned. You have to seat the bullet deeper than you did. Seat to what the book calls for. It needs that jump to build the initial psi build. The throat is sooooo long on these rifles. This leads to a drop in pressure just before the bullet reaches the throat. The carbon you seen is a WARNING. What this leads to is a pressure excursion. Or what some call a SEE. Be very careful loading the bullets out to try to reach the rifling. You will not like what happens.
Pure nonsense
how would your loads work in a M44
Mmm the "meant to be shot with bayonet" i thought applied to the model 38 and 44 carbines that has the bayo attached already.
I tend to think here you're not reaching the limits of your ability, but rather the particular rifle. I'd like to see it done with the ole timney trigger or, just a different mosin
Did u try Powder coating bullets?
my best results with both the mosin and the enfield sre with the 312 dia hornady flat base r. n. 180 grain.
Why do you sometimes shoot in your backyard and sometimes at the range? Is it neighbors?
Yeah, when I'm shooting a ton I like to go to the range. None of my neighbors has ever complained, but I'd like to keep it that way. Also, the range has much better benches! I need to build a nice bench in my backyard.
I envy you (in a friendly way) - in my country it is banned to shoot outside of certified (expensive - you pay per hour) ranges even If you have many square miles/km of own land and proper bullet catcher in place. You shoot outside of certified range even in most secure manner possible (most of them are open 9-5 so I work and cannot go there. You also need to show your license and register with the reception each time you are going to use the range) , your license and your guns are immediately taken away from you and you to go through licensing procedure again (over 1000 $ and 10 months of wait and paperwork) or are banned from owning guns ever after.
If you chrono them vs each other that would make for a good video 👌🏻👌🏻❕
Great videos Johnny! Would you do a video about 7.62x39 reloading?
He's been doing a series with an sks recently
If you'd drop reloader 15 as your primary powder for these loads, then your groups wouldn't tighten up.
Your putting pressure on the barrel by clamping your hand guard . Place your hold back a few inches. And try that
which is which?????
You rock brother ! Do you have facebook ? Great videos !!!!
Try flat base bullets instead of boat tails...
You say your using Norma brass , I have called them and they say they don't sell 7.62x54 Brass??
A friend told me that I shouldn't put reloaded ammo in the magazine because the recoil (especially after the fourth round) will seat the bullet further in based on his measurements. Better to load each round at a time. I doubt it makes that much of a difference but might when comparing.
Nonsense! There is nothing factory ammo can do that we can't replicate with reloads. There are some common reloading mistakes that can cause bullet setback but they should be easily remedied with proper reloading procedures. It's certainly a good idea to keep an eye on that and make sure you're not having setback issues. The easiest way to cause that problem would be to use a .311 expander with .308 bullets. You won't get proper neck tension on your bullets! I would bet $50 that's probably what caused your friend's issue. Match your bullet diameter to your expander diameter and you won't have that issue.
The second thing that could cause it would be to not seat your bullets deep enough. This isn't usually an issue unless you're shooting particularly short bullets. You just want to make sure you've got plenty of the bearing surface of the bullet seated below the mouth of the case. A good rule of thumb is seating bullets at least as deep as the diameter of the bullets. So, basically seat the bullet at least .3" down into the case for a 30 caliber. That's just a rule of thumb, though...so don't obsess over it. The OAL's you'll find in reloading manuals will generally be that deep or deeper.
The third thing that can safeguard against bullet setback is crimp! Crimp isn't magic. If you're using a .311 expander and .308 bullets, you're not going to solve your problem by putting on a heavy crimp. But, if you've got proper neck tension and a proper seating depth, a nice crimp can give you even more confidence that your bullets aren't going to have setback issues.
You've got your friend's advice and you've got mine. The best way to go about reloading is to take all advice and opinions with a grain of salt. Load up some rounds and go test it for yourself!
I'm starting to understand how the cannelure is supposed to work with the crimp. This should help with any recoil effects that might occur. Maybe something to test.
Looks to me that you have a lady bug or something on your die boxes at about 32:50. Don't know if you had seen that.
its not the best you can get, true your bolt and bolt face so the blot is holding the cartridge center, then true the barrel to the bolt, drop a better trigger in it, I went to a Timney. then shoot this same load.
Damn are you seriously loading and loads for the garbage rod
It's not the loads fault it's your fault you are putting the round where you want it to go great shooting.
THE HEAT AND THE PRESSURE BEHIND THE .308 SIZE BULLET WHEN YOU ARE FIRING, MAKES THE BACK OF THE BULLET EXPAND WHERE IT SEALS VERY WELL. THE .311 BULLET AND .312 I THINK MAKES IT TOO TIGHT AND ACTUALLY CREATES TOO MUCH PRESSURE AND GOD ONLY KNOWS THE AMOUNT OF COPPER FOULING YIU WILL GET.
What? Mosin bores generally run .310-.312
@@j.rob.5943 YES, IT WILL STILL EXPAND FROM THE HOT GASES BEHIND THE BULLET TO SEAL THE BORE. I USE 168 MATCH BULLETS ALL THE TIME AND WORKS JUST FINE, I ACHIEVE AMAZING GROUPS. YOU SHOULD TRY IT YOU WILL BE AMAZED!!
@@Plainsimple67 he shot 308 it sucked. also stop yelling and turn capslock off.
@@zomgz932 CAPS LOCK FOR ME DOESN'T CONSTITUTE YELLING, I DON'T FOLLOW LIKE SHEEP, I DO MY OWN THING. CAPS LOCK IS CLEAR AND LEGIBLE. 😉👉
@@zomgz932 FYI, MY NAGANT SHOT 3 ROUNDS 3/4 OR BETTER 5 SHOTS FOR 1 MOA TO 1 1/2 . THAT'S WITH A 4X P.U. SCOPED RIFLE 168 SIERRA MATCH WITH IMR 4895 POWDER OUT OF THE SIERRA MANUAL.
Wearing te fucking brass out, sliding them in and out the box, man.
+T Allen my box i assume you mean magazine....because plastic isnt going to do FUCK ALL to brass.
sure, you could place every shell directly into the chamber....kissing each one as you pull it out of the box....
or you could just buy some cheap PPU, and reload the brass.....and not have to fuck around
***** Good thing you don't kiss each one every time YOU pull it out the box, because that would wear it out too. The reference was to the amount of times you did it to fill the video time anyhow.
+T Allen lol