Depending on the car, you can shim a main seal in or out so the main seal lips do not ride in the groove. On bugs, you can usually deep-set the seal so that it is NOT flush but recessed in far enough to clear the groove. This is true on almost all engines.
It is a great way to try and stop the oil leaking from this area of the engine. But please also check / examine the Main Bearings. If the engine has lower than normal oil pressure, you may have too much clearance between the Main Bearings and the Crankshaft. When the engine is running, the crankshaft can 'float' up and down, and (if there is excessive clearance between the crankshaft / crankshaft Main bearings), even this treatment (and a brand-new Oil Seal) - will not cure an oil leak in this location. Try levering under the Flywheel, and watch for any up/down or sideways movement between the Flywheel and the Engine Casing. I used a magnetic DTI and measured the wear. My engine also has this problem of leaking, but my engine has this excessive 'free play' at the Crankshaft / Rear Main Bearing. Higher viscosity engine oil does help a lot.
Thank you VERY much for this information! I have been replacing my seal more and more frequently to try and stop the oil leak, never thinking to check for that wear groove. Next time! Thanks.
Chris- you know I think a good machine shop could also make that sleeve but probably charge more than 50 bucks. Many years ago I worked at a machine shop where we did what was called 'interference fit'. Basically as an example the flywheel would be put in dry ice to shrink it then the sleeve in an oven to expand, when both a room temp the sleeve would not fit over the flywheel but shrinking the flywheel and heating the sleeve made it possible to fit, when the temps of the flywheel and sleeve came back to normal the sleeve would be a very tight fit- I think in some jobs we used 005 to work with
Chris Vallone Thanks Chris, actually my 'real' name is Fred. I still have some affection when I see an old bug or VW, myself I like the stock ones or very close the best
@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris, I'm pretty sure it was, but can't remember. It's a couple of years since I did it. I'll have to pull the engine anyway. Maybe it's the O ring. I was just wondering if you had seen them leak after the speedi sleeve was put on.
I heard the late model Mexican and Brazilian Beetles had some sort of modification to the case where oil would not “sit” by the mail seal. This meant the main seal would last a LOT longer. Has anyone heard of this? And if so, can a straightforward enough modification be done to an older Beetle engine case?
Hello Christ, I been having that issue with my 64 beetle, its been leaking very bad it’s there any way You can send me the link for that to buy that sleeve?
@@classicvwbugs basically where the rear main bearing sits. A guy i know showed me an engine block and the rear main bearing had worn a groove in the block. Im in Canada so im sure its different up here but he told me machine shops would typically cut the hole bigger and then add a sleeve. What do you do in that case?
@@jimmyjames1908 Ah yeah, does it have like an extra "step" at the end of the block? I have seen that before. I think they sell an insert or something. If you contact Rancho in Cali, they do line boring on the VW blocks, they would probably know.
I know this is an old video, but it still applies today. I ordered this National part, but it is too small for my 6volt flywheel. Any idea on which national part number I need or if the flywheels are same size, why won't this one fit my flywheel.
Please help, Rebuild 1600 engine. Having problems with oil cooling. I have one split. Replace it and the 2nd one split . It splits on the 2nd day I start the engine. What could the problem be?
Uneven/bad crankshaft possibly, if 2 different cases cracked that were originally in good condition with no existing cracks and you used the same crank in both those cases id be looking at the crank. Also torque specs and ensure you didnt tighten the nuts around the case in a circular motion
Depending on the car, you can shim a main seal in or out so the main seal lips do not ride in the groove. On bugs, you can usually deep-set the seal so that it is NOT flush but recessed in far enough to clear the groove. This is true on almost all engines.
We just welded the groove up, then shaved it down to size on a lathe!!! That worked.
It is a great way to try and stop the oil leaking from this area of the engine. But please also check / examine the Main Bearings. If the engine has lower than normal oil pressure, you may have too much clearance between the Main Bearings and the Crankshaft. When the engine is running, the crankshaft can 'float' up and down, and (if there is excessive clearance between the crankshaft / crankshaft Main bearings), even this treatment (and a brand-new Oil Seal) - will not cure an oil leak in this location. Try levering under the Flywheel, and watch for any up/down or sideways movement between the Flywheel and the Engine Casing. I used a magnetic DTI and measured the wear. My engine also has this problem of leaking, but my engine has this excessive 'free play' at the Crankshaft / Rear Main Bearing. Higher viscosity engine oil does help a lot.
Brilliant demo Chris. Thanks from Scotland.
Thank you VERY much for this information! I have been replacing my seal more and more frequently to try and stop the oil leak, never thinking to check for that wear groove. Next time! Thanks.
Thank you so much for the clear explanations and demo ! I can never follow what the mechanics are saying. Kim
Chris- you know I think a good machine shop could also make that sleeve but probably charge more than 50 bucks. Many years ago I worked at a machine shop where we did what was called 'interference fit'. Basically as an example the flywheel would be put in dry ice to shrink it then the sleeve in an oven to expand, when both a room temp the sleeve would not fit over the flywheel but shrinking the flywheel and heating the sleeve made it possible to fit, when the temps of the flywheel and sleeve came back to normal the sleeve would be a very tight fit- I think in some jobs we used 005 to work with
Ah Jim that is excellent that you said that, I should have mentioned that about the freezer! U da man! =o)
Chris Vallone Thanks Chris, actually my 'real' name is Fred. I still have some affection when I see an old bug or VW, myself I like the stock ones or very close the best
@@classicvwbugs I have put a Speedo sleeve on, I’m still getting a leak, any ideas about the cause?
@@eamonnculliton100 where did you get your seal from? I hope it's orange.
@@classicvwbugs Hi Chris, I'm pretty sure it was, but can't remember. It's a couple of years since I did it. I'll have to pull the engine anyway. Maybe it's the O ring. I was just wondering if you had seen them leak after the speedi sleeve was put on.
There is another option out there and that’s to use a dual lipped seal, a seal from I believe an Alfa Romeo engine which is compatible.
Coolair VW sells those seals now.
hi where can i get that seal thnx for the video
Thanks Chris. Great video.
What measurement should the flywheel sealing surface be?
I heard the late model Mexican and Brazilian Beetles had some sort of modification to the case where oil would not “sit” by the mail seal. This meant the main seal would last a LOT longer. Has anyone heard of this? And if so, can a straightforward enough modification be done to an older Beetle engine case?
Thank you again Chris!
Excellent upload
Would this seal PN (99235) work for a 210mm VW Bus T4 Flywheel?
Hello Christ, I been having that issue with my 64 beetle, its been leaking very bad it’s there any way You can send me the link for that to buy that sleeve?
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,1964,beetle,1.2l+h4,1351909,engine,crankshaft+repair+sleeve,10524
Thank you
@@ramonprezahernandez6726 is the above for a 36 hp engine? Thanks
Hi Great video where can i get the Sleeve Thnx
The Sleeve where can i get it
What do you do when the wear is on the block?
Where on the block is it worn?
@@classicvwbugs basically where the rear main bearing sits. A guy i know showed me an engine block and the rear main bearing had worn a groove in the block. Im in Canada so im sure its different up here but he told me machine shops would typically cut the hole bigger and then add a sleeve. What do you do in that case?
@@jimmyjames1908 Ah yeah, does it have like an extra "step" at the end of the block? I have seen that before. I think they sell an insert or something. If you contact Rancho in Cali, they do line boring on the VW blocks, they would probably know.
I know this is an old video, but it still applies today. I ordered this National part, but it is too small for my 6volt flywheel. Any idea on which national part number I need or if the flywheels are same size, why won't this one fit my flywheel.
did you check rockauto? They have them I think. What yeah engine do you have? 36hp flys are smaller than the 40hp flys.
Great info Chris! Thanks!
Please help, Rebuild 1600 engine. Having problems with oil cooling. I have one split. Replace it and the 2nd one split . It splits on the 2nd day I start the engine. What could the problem be?
Uneven/bad crankshaft possibly, if 2 different cases cracked that were originally in good condition with no existing cracks and you used the same crank in both those cases id be looking at the crank. Also torque specs and ensure you didnt tighten the nuts around the case in a circular motion
Great video, Chris! Thanks so much!!!
thanks chris for the speedi idea!
Great vid! Thanks!
Thanks for the information
Is there a Speedi seal for a 1600?
Just get a new flywheel for a 1600 as they are available
Thanks Chris, greatfull you
Really helpful
thanks
Nice.
I'm sure you know, but it is not called a "block" it's referred to as a "case". You keep calling it a block.
Everyone loves a self righteous pedant.
Well some people call dinner "supper" but it is what it is, i know what they're talking about and thats all that matters