331 Stroker Overheating Problem Solved - Foxbody's Keep You Busy
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- Опубликовано: 11 ноя 2020
- Last video disclosed an issue with a coolant hose blowing off on the dyno. Now that we've got it figured out, we can get back to racing!
#engineoverheating #331stroker #foxbody 
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good to see you got the coolant issue worked out.
Great job with process of elimination on the cooling system issue.
Idk if ur issue is fixed but you can try adding a adjustable temp switch for the fans to turn on sooner and also a lower temp thermostat. U can also make sure the fans are spinning the correct way. That helps a lot. There is a additive u can add to ur coolant system to flow better that works.
Man that is something that I would do over think it and go to the hardest thing to get to like the head gaskets then it would be something easy like that but who would have thought that would have come apart in the hose , I surely wouldn't have 😂 but least you have some fresh head gaskets on it 😂 but man that was so simple 🤣😂 glad you got it cooling and you're going to love those 4.10s don't know if you have ran them or not yet or not but they are my favorite gear. I finally got the four banger out of my car and when the intake gets out of the machine shop I'll be ready to drop it in the car finally, damn its took forever and I am ready to drive it because I have never driven it and have had it 7 to 9 months I think, I can't remember but it's been too long and I am ready to enjoy all of this money I have spent on it so far 🤣🚙💨💨💨💨
I thought maybe u had head gaskets backwards with the coolant holes blocked in the back
Just found your channel. Diggin' it. Keep an eye on that rubber cap you put on the water pump. In my experience, they don't last too long before cracking.
Thanks man 👍👍 I’ll keep an eye on it
I had a hard start due to the high compression with the aluminum heads went with a mini starter, the headers heat the starter up like crazy
Who needs heat in a race car anyway 🤣 Still impressive how fast you're tearing it down. Hopefully it's staying cool and starting good now.
I’m tired of tearing it down 😭
@@RegularGuyGarage LOL, I bet
Some better fans will definitely help, try using some Water Wetter also. I've been using it in my race engines for 20yrs, I generally see 20 degrees lower temps, no build up, compatible with all parts, good stuff.
Someone just recommended that to me the other day. I’ll give it a shot 👍
I kept blowing heater cores, I made a restrictor to put in the pressure side ,and haven't had any issues since.
Looks like a lot of work. I changed my GT40 irons to Blueprint heads a few weeks ago and it was a bit of a job doing it on the car. Then a little after that I took part of it apart again to put in a cam. Then I took part of it apart again to change the valve springs. If I would have envisioned where it is now earlier I could have saved some steps.
I think I bought the same blue Standard premium coil. It was made in Poland.
Yea I’m in the same boat lol. And yea it’s made in Poland. Seems like good qualify stuff so far
What was your impressions of those heads compared to the gt40 irons? And did you new cam require better springs or was there an issue with the one that came in the blue print heads?
@@302hobronco If I recall I gained about 0.5 seconds in the quarter with when I went from the GT40 irons to the Blueprint heads. My Lunati cam is supposed to have a power band to 6600 I believe, but the motor would not rev above 6200 so I swapped in the recommended springs from Lunati. In hind sight I should have put in ever stronger springs as it still does not rev much above 6200.
@@sbf_fox2434 thank you for the feed back. Now I'm second guessing the springs again haha.
@@302hobronco Blueprint puts the spring specs on their web site.
Spring Pressure Open: 295-305 @ 1.225
Spring Pressure Closed: 115-125 @ 1.800
They also put the following cam in their crate motors:
Cam Type: Roller
.543 Intake .554 Exhaust
218 Intake / 226 Exhaust duration
@ .050 - 112 degree lobe separation
Lunati recommended following springs for my 20350712 cam:
73100-16
Type: Dual With Damper ;O.D. Outer: 1.450" ;I.D. Outer: 1.076" ;I.D. Inner: .730" ;Coil Bind: 1.110" ;Seat Load: 125@1.850" ;Open Load: 325@1.250" ;Rate (lbs/in): 333
How much spring does your cam need?
If you are running aluminum heads you have to drill steam holes in your block if not it can run hot
Is this a speed density car?
Nice work! Are you still running the Comp 274 cam?
Thanks. And yup
O Well, Since I Been 2, the only Way to fix Things and figure Them out is To take it All apart and Put back together again. Hehaha I really don't Consider, any Time spent working on a Car a waste of Time, i personally love All involved, its fun, even learn More,. nothing wrong With being efficient. I'v had V8's 350 chevy's and 302 Oldsmobile.. a v6 Monte Carlo 87, mostly 4 cylinders Toyota 22re &r.. and Recently more v6 Toyota, yet i Strokered a 4.0 Jeep Inline 6, and put 1974 258 Crank, and Rods into The 4.0.. that motor is Real Smooth, Balanced,, I Like that Aspect of it.. No Vibrations. anyways cool Video
thats why i use a smalll socket instead of that plastic piece in the heater hose. It will never break. Agree on you racecar just bypass.
Have you experimented with the cranking fuel for the hard start issue? Tuning that table really helped mine.
Yea I’ve been making small adjustments to it.
@@RegularGuyGarage When the car is running, note how much fuel is required and what the coolant temp is from the strip chart. Say it's 5lbs/hr at 150 degrees, put that amount at that temperature in the cranking fuel and that should get you really close.
I also had a hard starting issue on my 89 mustang and I also adjusted fuel pressure but I found out that ignition module on the steering wheel shaft was coming apart on one side and not making contact and the car would start and shut off or it would crank and no start after I replaced the ignition module the car starts up with no more issues
always let the fuel pump pressurize the system and shut off before you turn the key. it helps.
Hey man don't you sell stuff on Ebay? I think that I bought a cam from you a while back for my 347 if so if not it was someone with the same name 🤣😂🚙💨💨
You’re right. I usually do. I was frustrated at this time so I didn’t do it 🤦♂️
I'm guessing you checked your thermostat. Or atleast you installed it and know it was installed correctly. I had a buddy who got a shop to "make this car Dailey-able" they replaced his perfectly fine radiator with a smaller 4cyl rad, brand new water pump which was the wrong direction of flow, he needed a standard, they put on a reverse, they put in a 195 thermostat, backwards. Ended up making the car over head and blow a head gasket.
Yea I have a high flow thermostat in and it’s facing the right way. Triple checked that before putting it in lol.
@@RegularGuyGarage I'm sure that you have triple checked everything that is under the hood after going through that 🤣😂
I highly doubt either one of those has any effect on your overheating issue
It 100% was the issue. The car has no issue staying below 200* now
Any desire to go carb?
Not with this one. I had a carb 347 a few years ago
A plugged heater core will not cause a car to overheat. You had excessive pressure building up before the engine heated up. That IS a head gasket.
So, the solution for a blocked hose is to block the hose inlet/outlet at the pump.
😲😲
Ground the ECU to the battery!! Trust me, you'll be chasing your tail otherwise! Especially Holley
The power cord for the ECU is ground to the battery. The small wire I ground to the block is for the sensors I believe
@@RegularGuyGarage Havent you read the wiring diagram on how the harness is routed?....If you notice each sensor has a ground wire but it also grounds alot more stuff too.......
If you put sealant on the sensor threads how can it ground to the engine ?..The separate black ground wire is to ground the fuelpump fuel injectors, sensors and power tap accessory also the TFI module as its Space D on the 10 pin ignition plug and creates a shorter and different grounding point..
If your engine isnt grounded to the frame and the frame to the battery then hooking the ground wire to the engine block creates problems as mentioned...I use a continuity tester to test the strength of my ground points between the battery to the engine block by gauging how fast it hits triple zero and also note when its not , then checking battery to the frame , engine to the frame , body to the frame and body to the battery then I check to see how much dirty voltage is disturbing the grounds when the starter is activated and the engine is running so I know if I need to run the rf noise isolators you most likely eliminated when you did away with the mustang EEC-IV harness and I hope not..
I remember the days when people used to always say" Make sure your coil body is grounded good when people were having problems with getting spark.....I used to laugh because isnt the ground wire the trigger wire on a coil so how does the suggestion make any sense??..The only thing that needs to be properly grounded are the sparkplugs to the heads alternator to the bracket and the engine block and starter to the transmission.......
Don't think heater hose blocked will cause the engine to run hot. I don't trust cheap electric fans and relays.
The blocked hose was the issue. Doesn’t run hot now that I’ve fixed it