This Shouldn't Happen
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- The Mingda Magician X is an interesting machine. I was sent three, and each one seem to be progressively better than the last. The first was awful, and the second was less awful, and the third? You'll have to see.
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It is curious that these manufacturers don't just improve on previous designs. If every I3 clone was better than the last, we would have world peace and be colonizing Mars already.
Good engineers are expensive. If you are making clones you aren't working with the best people.
@@rhadiem Yes they are but these things are being de-engineered for profit. I venture that there are numerous 3DPN fans that would bring great ideas to the table for free. Cheers
Toddlers all need to fall at some point before they learn how to walk like an adult. Watching a lot of other toddlers fall, or even watching adults walk around does not make them particarly better at learning to walk. Mingda probably only have toddler engineers or business administration people in the company...
Making it cheaper is an improvement.
I think we should stop to review these i3 / Ender clones and wait for the new generation (prusa XL and the like) to arrive. It‘s always just the same…
Dang glad I ignored that email. I stayed away from them after the Amazon review debacle 😂
Yeah, I think you made a good decision.
The i3 based platform is so mature at this point, it's shocking that any manufacturer would send out review units of such low quality. There's no reason. And what about quality control? I watched your old video when you visited Prusa in Prague yesterday and I still feel like they take the lead in QC.
The problem, I think, is that often time Manufacturers are actually re-sellers that represents a diverse set of sub-contractors.
The sub-cons fulfill orders, but there is no 'one place' where the kits are put together, no 'single bin' to get parts from.
At some workbench somewhere: OK, today we have orders to make 'BestPrice', 'OortCloud' and 'BravePath' 3d printer kits to sell in North America.
The worker rummages around through piles of generic parts and custom-molded shells, puts together a kit from a check-list, slaps the appropriate labels on the right places.
This is why some printers have so much variation in the same Model; they aren't 'innovating', it's a loose supply-chain piece-meal Industry.
Don't look so shocked; automobiles have been made this way since the days of Henry Ford!
You are exactly right. In spite of the issues I've had with my Prusa Mini, I'd rather buy from a company like Prusa that has actual engineers, actual support, actual genuine replacement parts, and an actual supply chain. Random Chinese companies are never going to help you.
there's some truth to this...
The vast amount of glass for print beds is made in one place...and that one place also makes nearly all the glass for computer cases as well.
They just make whatever comes up on the work order for the day.
I actually think Joel has a video on this somewhere.
Hahaha, the intro of you pulling the hot end off had me laughing immediately and also told me all I needed to know about the machine. That was a nice edit. The rest of the video could do with fewer meme inserts, though. It really interferes with the flow of information.
Splicing in memes is often overdone. 100% with you on that.
Mingda? That already sounds like a quality. Combined with the plastic parts and nice and wiggly construction we got a another cool race to the bottom product. But i do appreciate they contacted you and tried to make it better. They do an effort. Which is already more than expected from this kind of low end products.
Hello and congratulations for your professionalism. Unfortunately I also bought a Magician X and I can confirm the various problems it can give, plus my printer had a completely shaky X axis. The assistance was then completely absent trying to solve the problems only with words ... Fortunately it was bought on Amazon and I promptly returned it to the sender!
I’ve used PETG with a glass plate many times. The trick to getting PETG to not stick so much is to use a bed adhesive such as Magigoo. The adhesive creates a thin barrier between the extruded plastic and the glass bed. If you still have problems with the plastic sticking too well, try applying some isopropyl alcohol at the base of the print.
This machine has a painted surface on the glass plate, and that paint prefers to stick more to PLA than it sticks to the glass. The problem here is clearly the paint on the glass and not what you might have experienced with unpainted glass beds.
@@ProtonOne11 Mine had a type of coating too. I had a hard time getting PETG off of the build plate until I tried a bed adhesive and isopropyl alcohol for help when needed.
@@ProtonOne11 he is correct and that isn't paint... it's carborundum a silicone and carbon blend.
Be it plain glass or the coated it requires a separation layer to print PETG or the glass/coating with crack off with the print.
Glue stick or blue painters tape solves this. They provide a layer between the PETG and bed to prevent the PETG from damaging the bed.
In a world of ender 3 clones why buy a clone for the same or near same or even more than a ender.
Either way, glass or textured glass beds need glue stick or blue tape as a separation layer. This is a must. The stringing could likely be a easy fixed but even so the price is far too high for what it is. I gave that for my Ender 3 Max new from creality and it puts that thing to shame.
It's very easy to recalibrate the display... Simply add an empty file named reset.txt on the SD card and restart the machine. It will take you right into the calibration for the display.
Also, you still don't have the most current design. And it is currently on sale at Amazon for $295.99 (from Mingda, not a reseller).
I've had mine since March and I absolutely love it.
No, Please, Joel, tell us how you really feel. :-) Great review! Keep making them!
At least they started out by pointing you to a firmware update rather than "Have you tried turning it off and back on again." Personally I'd avoid this one if I were in the market for a printer. I doubt anyone outside of someone they're looking to get good review from would get 2 separate upgraded replacements. I'd be skeptical of whether you'd end up getting the upgraded metal version over one of the crap plastic versions they'd still want to get rid of if ordered online.
The wiggle bit
Wig wig wiggle
5:52
Glad you liked that :)
PETG on coated glass - i have the same issue on Ender 3V2 - when i print parts, its ok, when it cool down - it ripp off some chunks from the bed. Now im using the same bed, just mount upside down to the original - and no problem with PETG.
Bummer this keeps happening, but I have to agree on your end point, there is so much better out there for that price point. Glad to see you go public with this. It is never easy, but you did a great job presenting the facts Joel!
Thank you, my friend.
I canceled my order while I paused the video here... 😂 Thank you for the update.
Thanks Joel! And props to Sean for all of the relevant clips inserted for emphasis. Always a treat watching your stuff.
Thanks for watching! On this one we had Dustin for the edit - Sean moved back home.
To start I am not trying to start a war by a bunch of armchair professionals. I have been watching 3dpn videos since almost from the very beginning. In fact he was my first 3d printer RUclips channel I subscribed to. Ok here it goes. I have to completely disagree with Joel's comment saying "plastic should not be used for mounting extruders". If you look for example at ie. the Voron line, they use ABS, ASA or some times even PETG. This shows that yes you can use the appropriate form of plastic. No one can argue the success of these styles of printers. NOW for the rest of the review he did a fabulous job on showing the weakness and downfalls of this printer. There is definitely better example that are a bit cheaper or expensive.
So after all that, please keep up with the amazing content. I will not stop watching just because I don't agree with 1 tiny weenie thing lol.
Cheers from Calgary Alberta Canada 🇨🇦.
HEY! So, my wording wasn’t enough because you’re 100% right. The problem here is with the plastic being the stand-offs that hold the wheels to the extrusion. Even with the eccentric nut I wasn’t able to get the lower wheel to bite. I hope that all makes sense.
@@3DPrintingNerd That makes complete sense 👏 👌. I can see why you were having such trouble. I shake my head at manufacturers who don't fix simple issues like that on "NEW" versions. I have a sidewinder x1 and the x2 did not solve a few of the biggest issues, like a permanent warped glass bed. But it does fuel the tinkering mind of mine lol.
Keep up the amazing work and thanks for the background to this issue. 😀
**sad trombone**
I liked the animation and do you use 3D pieces every day?
Can you use a cell phone for slicer’s and do everything for a 3D printer I don’t have a computer
Just don't see the value vs the clones or the vyper/kobra options.
Video editor needs to chill. More pop ups than a 1990s website.
I allways love a Company how sells bad 3D Printer. Then when all say they are bad, there is the Company again and say: Hey test it again its now better. But the most time its still bad.
4:02 but a lot of 3d printers use 3d printed plastic to make other 3d printers that are good. Design of the plastic is a big factor.
I once had an IT guy tell me that a BIOS upgrade can fix my sticking key on my laptop's keyboard....I replaced the keyboard and fixed the issue. Software people trying to fix hardware issues?
PETg rips coatings off of glass plates if you don't put a separation layer of gluestick or diluted white glue on first. I guess Mingda's coating could be worse, but people see it all the time with the Anycubic Ultrabase which is otherwise a great bed.
Right, and I agree. But an Amazon listing said PETG, so I had to try it thinking *maybe* it would be different.
I dunno, it seems like we should have the whole "generic looking i3-style machine" thing solved by now. Like, if you want to outdo the Ender 3 you gotta at least match it.
For that price they couldn’t have spared a few bucks for a metal mount? With all the online fabs available you can send in your own mount model and get it made for maybe sub 10$ depending on shipping…
why mount the x motor down, you limit space that way and can cause it to rub against the lower cables.
Would be interesting to have a look inside the printer at the wiring and electronics side. So many of these cheap printers are not up to any standards and/or just too dangerous to even consider using. I'd definately never buy any plug in any of these machines without checking everything first.
I do plan on opening them up!
Last year (a little over a year ago) I bought a Lotmaxx SC-10 via Amazon, and it ended up with what appeared to be a fatal thermistor issue in the hot end and eventually failed to boot up like it should, before 30 days. It wouldn’t even post after a number of times.
I looked into what I could do, even bought thermistors, but decided there was more risk than it being worth the bother that the controller board was fried from a short, so I returned it in exchange. Before I did, I opened it up and inspected it: all the wiring was neatly done and properly shielded so it’d take a real effort to be a safety hazard: hot glue was used to keep some things more secure and insulated, but wiring into terminals was done correctly. Combine that with the observation that it appears from testing to fail safely, I felt good about getting a replace,ent, and even ordered the higher-end dual extruder Shark, and haven’t had problems with them since then.
I just got unlucky with a failing thermistor (I had to keep raising the extruder temperature) and that machine had the early part of the bathtub curve I got bitten by. Even if they fail, since I saw they did the wiring correctly and appeared to do the rest safely in all aspects, I feel safe with them. Note: I have formal electronics background.
@3D Printing Nerd Where did you find the frog model you used in this video?
My big issue with the Magician is the mess of wires. The wires for my fans came loose during a print and burned through so now I’m trying to find replacement parts. It’s hard with the fans because they have that Y connector so you can’t just get upgraded fans to replace. Just makes me angry.
Wow the editing on this video is off the charts! Amazing job, really entertaining video!
Would love to know where to find the STL for the squeaky dog toy!! Thanks, great video!
Thanks Joel, I’ve been looking at this machine but the plastic really turned me off. Maybe it’s time to look again….
Lol, I had a boss once… no matter what problem popped up with our work trucks, it was always a fuse! Flat tire? Check a fuse!
PETG on glass is kind of a bad idea overall though, isn't it? At least without glue stick or some other release agent. PETG glues itself down hard otherwise. I really don't get why you'd print it on any glass plate without taking that into consideration. Oh well, I'll keep using my Prusa textured plate and getting effortless PETG prints. Just churned out four whole screen stands with a specific mini-PC mount for work over the past few days; not a hitch.
Good review and history story. I think a lot of us that have been doing 3D printing for a while are getting away from the I3 type and going to a much better, but more expensive system. I'm building my second Rat Rig and have been very pleased with their performance.
The problem is, soooo many beginners are still experiencing this crap as their first and last encounter with 3D printers.
Yep, building an voron right now.
@@Martial-Mat A Rat Rig or Voron is not a first printer for a lot of reasons. You need to start some where and figure out if it is something you want to do as a hobby. Once you decide then you can get better equipment. A lot like woodworking, start with what you can afford then upgrade
ABL? Check (but possibly questionable)
Filament runout sensor? Check (though not confirmed if it works in the review. I don't remember if it was checked in the livestream)
Removable flex bed? Nope
And that last one is enough reason to ignore the machine. I will probably do this for every machine review I come across. It's 2022, you want a glass bed, earn it. There's too many gotcha's involved with it for machines being sold to new users. If you have 30 printers and enjoy chiseling your print off a hard surface like early mankind, go for it. But for everyone else, as Joel said, it's gonna get lost in a sea of Ender-3 clones... and many of them now have removable flex beds, are the same cost, don't have questionable hot-end attachment, have a touch screen, etc. Move along people, move along.
Thank you, and good night.
now that you mention it, No, I really dont care. glad they got their S417 together and upgraded the plastic pieces, but why did the plastic one make it out of prototyping in the first place?
Quality control is not something Chinese companies do.
I'm curious on the inside of the board and how well you can upgrade it.
Thanks for the honest look at this. I can't bother with most companies now due to no innovation. Give me a great Delta at a prusa mini price with Prusa quality, remote direct drive and a volcano style hotend, then we are taking!
i dont have this printer, but i did just buy an Anycubic Vyper, looking forward to this one :D
Lmao that intro was sick
HUMAN FEET.
See the rub here is if we complain to these vendors about crap quality, the silence is deafening. If you’re a RUclips channel with a vast following, they jump and suddenly … suddenly … have an improved version.
Yup, that happens, and it sucks.
@@3DPrintingNerd right? I’m still trying to get the Fokoos Odin to print reliably. They keep sending new parts. And it keeps finding new ways to fail!
I print PETG on glass with gluestick all the time. I have one going now.
Right - as do I - but there was a coating, and the Amazon listing had PETG. So, I had to try.
Sounds expensive for what it is. Especially when you can get an Ender 3 for less than that.
thanks for another great Video/
So i kind of sliced my hand wide open taking a print off my CR6-se .Glass build plats/ beds should be outlawed lmao, 9 stiches later its healing but i think im going to miss the Hero Challenge!
I'm super sad about. its been ruff doing everything with one hand. It was so bad i had to call an ambulance before passing out.
But I'm ok now just healing up. I hope i can still send in for fun my Hero ideas once its healed.
Ouch!! I've moved almost entirely to flex plates except for my CR-6 SE but I use the bare, non-coated glass side with Aquanet when needed. New trick I learned for stubborn prints - stick the glass plate in the freezer.
HOLY CRAP - 9 STITCHES?!?!?
That's horrible. And yeah, glass beds are generally shit. Can the CR6-SE take a PEI/steel sheet or is the bed not magnetic?
YEP! 😀 Thanks Joel!
Really lighting flash is ok, but..... still....... NO .......STAR WIPE !!!!! :D
I have 2 Ender 3s.. I am looking for something with more speed, over 150mm/s that I print now. and can handle TPU. Thanks to this video, it will not be this printer.
I cannot get behind these companies that try to use influencers as beta testers without them actually agreeing to be
I _really_ feels like a beta testing situation. It's awful.
I've had the Mingda magician printer for some time now (pre-kickstarter), and some of the prints that I have done on this machine have been the best that I have seen, I don't think there is perfect printer out there, I think Auto bed leveling also has to be supplemented with a wheel adjustment. As far as plastic parts, this started years ago with the Eryone ER-20
you are aware that the prusa mk3s has no physical bed adjustments on it only probe mesh... right? how good are the first layers on a prusa with a decently calibrated live-z? i have multiple prusas, multiple vorons, and over the years ive used makerbots, enders, davinci's and numerous other printers. prusa consistently produces excellent parts with minimal meddling other than setting live z. my voron 2.4's and tridents are purely software adjusted (except my 0.1's). no wheels. they use a probe to tram the bed to the gantry, probe the nozzle height, probe the bed location, and calculate the offset. also then does a mesh. perfect first layer every time, and i can change nozzle, or pei flexplate or both and never have to touch it, it self-auto calibrates. mouse click switch for the bed and nozzle probes cost $2.50 each. no knobs needed.
350 is just to much for a pronter this size these days. unless it has some new and useful features. talking to my printer has never been a priority
Hey Nerd, what's is your Fav thing about 3D Printer machine?
thank Bro!
Hi mate. I've just bought a biqu B1 and the quality out of the box is amazing. Not had any failed prints at all. This is my first week though and I haven't bothered calibrating anything. I paid £300 for it. Auto levelling is not necessary as it stays good after manually levelling it. They offer a bl touch clip which I might purchase but as of yet no issues.
I think a lot of people printing in 3d mess around with the settings too much and waste too many materials making calibration prints. Why not design your own products which is what the machine is intended for, rather than trying to reprint other people's prints to see how good it is? I don't want a benchy to look good, I want my designs to look good and be printable. So why not tweak it for each component you make? These aren't aimed at you, they're aimed at the community.
I discovered 3d printing back in 2008 on the Zeigeist addendum film and although we are 14 years later, not much improvement has been made. We need to community crowdfund and design our own 3d printer with you guys who have all the experience. It's easy to complain about products we buy that are designed to break. So, why not build our own? It's not hard building a frame with pulleys. Lathe some of our own print heads. Let's take back real control ;-)
There's a reason reference prints exist: if your printer fails at printing them, something is wrong with either your hardware, firmware, or slicer settings. No one really prints Benchies for the sake of printing Benchies (I hope), but rather to evaluate things like stringing, over/under-extrusion, ringing, etc. Of course, different parts will require different settings but you have to start with printing an object whose properties are already known, eg: a calibration cube, Benchy, whatever.
And designing a good, reliable 3D printer *is* very difficult. You need engineers, software/firmware developers, QA testers, reliable vendors, a supply chain of parts with consistent quality (not random grab-bag shit from China), and someone with the ability to think outside the box (eg: the Voron guys). Cloning Ender 3s is easy, designing something new from scratch is hard. I think the Voron designs are much better than the Ender/i3 design, really; Core-XY seems to remove some big fundamental weaknesses of i3 and bed-slinger printers in general, like a bed that has to be leveled with springs (awful design) and an extruder that rolls on crappy little rubber pulley wheels on a piece of 2040 extruded aluminum.
You have to remember that it hasn't been very long since Stratasys' patents on FDM printers expired (fuck Stratasys, speaking of which), and progress since the original RepRap printers has been quite good, I think--crappy Ender 3 clones aside. You'll always walk a fine line in the consumer market to balance the prices people are willing to pay versus performance and features. If you want an 'ecosystem', there's always Ultimaker and the like, where things are more set-and-forget, but that's not what the hobbyist/enthusiast FDM community is about.
Unfortunately I am not as confident as you are and would still stay in the safe side.
Have you tried to fix the plastic shroud? To see if it can be fixed?
Not yet.
Just put down some gluestick before printing PETG. I have a glass build plate, and print a lot in PETG because I dont trust PLA in the desert, and I have never had my prints mess up my bed in the last 3 years
Oh I know - glue stick and hairspray for me with PETG on glass work great. However it HAS a coating and one of the Amazon listings did say PETG was good, so I *had* to try.
@@3DPrintingNerd same with creality glass beds. Also blue painters tape works as well.
But I don't blame you for trying. No real harm done to a junk machine anyways.
dint expect much more from something like this
Sounds like I'll stick with my ender for now. Interesting statement however on not using plastic to mount stuff when it seems to be the go to for a lot of printers these days.
I would disagree with Joel. Plastic itself isn't the problem, as long as your part is designed correctly with the usage in mind, and the limitations of plastic are taken into account. These parts were not. Take a Prusa for example. The carriage assembly on a Mk3 is all plastic, and that's a rock solid platform.
I should have been more specific. The original was using injection molded plastic as a one-piece for the wheels to mount to. They weren't within spec and I couldn't tighten the lower wheel close enough to make it right. Plus, when you are using pressure on the nozzle to level the bed, you're constantly putting force on that plastic mount and it's just not going to hold up.
I may try to make a follow-up, since there are specific issues here I want to address with more words.
I do like [EDITOR PERSON]'s style, but I think you could get by with maybe half the cuts and inserts. My poor ADHD brain could barely handle it.
yeah, I was thinking the inserts are overdone too.
We let Dustin get a little wild with this one. 🤪
Yeh way too many
It's 2022, and i3 clone machine for that price, that works but just barley and certainly no better than any other (Elegoo Neptune 2 for example, at nearly half the price), is INEXCUSABLE.
Artillary is miles above for 100 more.
"Are you glad they went to metal?"
No, I am glad I never spent my money on anything like that... :-)
I'd skip it and go Ender 3v2 all day.
Looks like every other bland "vanilla" flavored i3 printer.
*Yawn
Glad you're the one doing the review & not me!
just get a creality. you know it will work.
Seems like a shittier version of the Artillery Genius Pro, and that's not a good machine, it's ok (eventually) but at least it starts with all metal where it counts.
Amazon listed for $295. I wonder if it still worth it? Which is better Anycubic Kobra or this at this price point? Only thing Anycubic Kobra doesn't do is Dual Z.
After using these and the Kobra - I would pick the Kobra.
@@3DPrintingNerd Awesome. I just picked up one from their website for $256. At this price, I don't think I can find any better alternative.
How do I know if my printer has "zii" or "zet"?
"Z" or "Zed"? Depends on whether you eat donuts for breakfast I'm told.
Was looking at the Magician X Pro vs. the Anycubic Kobra Max. Any chance you’ve been able to look at the pro model?
I don't have any experience with the Pro, I do like the Kobra Max and have been using it a lot since the review.
@@3DPrintingNerd Thanks so much for the quick response. Your review of the Vyper and then the Kobra Max have been very influential in my decision making process. High Five!
It's incredibly sad they wont listen to all of our feedback. Everyone in the community is so eager to throw out great suggestions on ways to improve the machine, often by using the machine to produce the necessary parts. Yet they are dead set on taking the evolution approach of random adding/removing elements until something sticks as the better option. All while we, the people using them are held to an absurdly high standard of design, fit, and finish.
I have honestly put very real thought into just released a bunch of questionable prints under a false company name just so that when they sell, people don't like it, I can pull their number, and disappear to re-emerge under a new name no one suspects. Not because I view that as anywhere near a good idea or even ok to do. Simply to utilize their methods which I guess work pretty well if they can afford to keep doing this crap. Unfortunately my conscious always gets in the way of ever enacting such plans, must be nice to be born without that hindrance.
It's interesting how they all home X to the left and not the right. Cargo cult in action right there.
Cargo cult?
@@3DPrintingNerd a saying from the electronics industry... One person/company makes a design choice and other companies/people blindly copy it without considering why it's there.
I won't be getting it... I stick with my new Delta QQ-S Pro ..
That cost only £190 here in the UK at ebay brand new with free 1 day delivery!
It has a attachable touch probe unit that auto levels fine. you take it off the head after it done the 16 point test.
( held by a magnet on the head and plugged in by a cable )
I brought a round Double sided PEI metal sheet magnetic bed cover to put over their round 10 inch wide glass bed.
so much easier to remove the prints. The Delta is faster and better then my Aquila even though that printer now has had a 3D auto leveling probe fitted by me.
That Aquila also only cost £189 and is a great printer I also fitted a great PEI metal sheet magnetic system to it too..
Just my big Tronxy X5SA 2020 model printer now needs the leveling probe upgrade. 😊
i3 is mature, coreXY is the hype, but I think a delta with remote direct drive out of the box could really take over (something like a zesty nimble)
Why do you say CoreXY is hype? Ignore the terrible Ender 7, and instead look at all the excellent examples of CoreXY that are making deltas irrelevant. Long-time delta advocates are moving to CoreXY, from what I’m seeing.
@@JonS I said it's hype because they're great. I'd just like to see some more work done on deltas - having a direct drive-ish capable one out of the box would be pretty cool.
@@markcahalan5698 I guess that we have different definitions of the word "hype". To me it refers to unwarranted enthusiasm for something, but thank you for defining your usage of the word. I agree they are great (when done right, the Ender 7 is an example of CoreXY not done right).
The modern 3d printing landscape is just so boring, stuffed with these uninspired Ender-clones that usually get miniscule iterations or changes to them at a really frantic pace.
Doesn't stand out, had major issues which weren't handled well (so forget about support). Pass! :) I do have to say I learned 3D printing with Enders, just because you have to understand them well to make them print really well (not just good). But, I'm happy to save up a bit and go for something that doesn't need mods.
ill stick with creality
Same here I've had a 3 pro since last september and so far the only trouble I've had is with TPU and fixed that with a direct drive
you have to use gluestick for printing PETG on glass bed
Best to avoid printing PETG on glass altogether. A textured PEI Sheet is your best option. Good adhesion while printing and your parts pop right off after the bed cools.
@@Founders4 glue stick works fine but so does painters tape. Glass beds are fine to use with a sacrificial surface on them. No reason to buy another surface.
We changed the parts too bad if you bought an early one.
Thanks Joel, robo flashbacks
It really is Robo flashbacks!
Kinda, I miss the hilariousness that was the Robo3D review. :)
@@VincentGroenewold I *still* have that bent leadscrew!
Joel seems to go out of his way to be super nice to manufacturers in reviews. If he said the first model was bad, it must have been terrible
I try to be fair in reviews with what I say, and reserve the super harsh words for situations like Robo3D :)
Blasphemy! Plastic is a fantastic material. Also bring back the d2 mingda.
"Zee or Zet". Stop that...
No WIFI for the 3d printers made in 2022Huh? Seems The Makers of this things aren't learning anything from the community.
*Some* do have it, it's just not a regular thing. yet.
I was not too fond of mine lol 😂
Great review.
Hi, I paid $331 for my Sidewinder X1 and no doubt it works 1k better than this "Magician" which actually doesn't have much magic. It's really not very good what this company does, there are more and more people who are interested in 3D printing and if by misfortune they buy this brand as their first machine, well it is very likely they decide to drop the idea of getting into this hobby, I know maybe my words are "strong" but it's a shame to have come up with such a badly designed/accomplished machine
(translated by Google translation, I hope the sentences are understandable because sometimes the translations are ... risky)
Don’t know if everyone agrees with me, but i think it is tiresome with all the effects in the video.. kinda removes the focus of it🤝
my thought good job on the video.
Thank you!
I'm having serious deja vu???
... the wiggle?
@@3DPrintingNerd I think the whole petg for printing and yeah the wiggle!
3 but 2 comments hmmm
end of the world Joel ? what printer is going with you on the ark of life lol
and site don't matter ?
The cutaways are getting a little excessive.
plastic?!? uh no just... no not to be gross but i've seen things in my toilet that were better lol
Far better machines for 350
Why make a video on this?
It’s crap, next.
Minda magic turd
🙏👍