I'm not looking to build a high-resolution printer - I just want to learn more about these sorts of things. Your videos are great learning tools! Thanks for taking the time to share these with us.
Thinking maybe that the size of the rail in an old scanner/printer would allow for more flexibility in design, expanding the print area. Wondering if you'd lose anything (resolution? control difficulties?) with a larger rail...
I think you guys forget that most of us that watch, don't have a clue what your talking about. I'm old school, if you know what I mean. I would love to try to put one of these together, but the more I watch the less I think I can. Just the same, still fun to watch you guys just through these things together.
This was one of the first videos I saw on your channel, long ago! I made a pen plotter out of three CD drives I had laying around thanks to it. I used grbl, some 3D G-code thing I can't remember, and Inkscape for the SVGs. Brings back memories.
I'd consider scrapping out an old inkjet printer. You'll find a much more powerful stepper motor, if you are careful you can reuse the circuitry that runs it and it comes with a larger sled and more sturdy slide rails. Also, you could just connect that motor to a fine threaded rod / nut combo from a hardware store for just a few bucks to make a really stable and precise linear slide mechanism
I have two ideas I have been toying around with for some time now. 1. What about a disk(build plate) that sits on top of a lead screw so that whenever you drive the leadscrew, the build plate rotates and goes up or down. Then have one linear axis for the extruder assembly that moves it from the center of the disk to an edge. This would almost double the printing area with the same amount of extruder movement. You can select the pitch of your lead screw to be exactly the layer heigt you want. 2. I’ve been busy building and designing a desktop printer that has almost no electronics above its build plate, just the hotend and a fan. It’s a nice challenge and looks great
Tinkernut I’ve read your reply and will sent you an email as soon as I get the chance with the in dept explanation. You might want to delete your comment now to not get flooded with mails 😉
Why bother with easydriver ? I mean, every other setup use a4988 drivers, that could be easily integrated in a "cnc shield" or "grbl shield", leading to a cleaner design !
I used to work on copy machines. If you can get your hands on an old copy machine there is unlimited supplies of stepper motors, rails, and belts available inside.
i used 1old apple scanner and 2 huge 1980's printers..it worked pretty good. but you can use that laser as a 2nd head to engrave items if it's a dvd burner. it can engrave things like wood and low temp plastic.
well, he could, but I think that reusing driver is not worth it on Sata. IDE would be better (it has 1 pin for forward and another pin for backward dir.)
Thanks for this new version it's a bit slow paced and more in depth. WhenI tried doing almost everything your way from the previous tutorial, I had problems starting PCU. It should be in working condition and I did connect the green pin to ground with a jumper wire. It didn't turn on tho. Any ideas on what could be the issue? Maybe the contact was too loose or something?
Is great that you're doing, so my suggestion to improve it you have to somehow replace the threaded rod for a longer one, in order to grow your printer volume.
I've got mine running on a RAMPS 1.4 board. Capable of decent prints, not so good with 'bridges" due to low speed and no cooler. I cut a holder for a V6 hotend out of a block of wood. It's nightmare to look at, but functional.
WILL fill there are multiple parts to the process, first you have to install an interface on the printer (look for marlin or repetier) that can translate Gcode into stepper motor input. Gcode is a standard to talk to cnc’s and 3D printers and such. It tells the interface “hey you need to move to that location and do this and that with the extruder” and the interface drives the motors. The next layer up is a slicer. A slicer converts a 3D model (usually .stl file) in slices in the form of Gcode. Here you can tweak all kinds of stuff like speed, layer height, how much infill you want,...
I understand this is supposed to be a super low-cost entry into 3d printing, but considering the amount of work that has been put into projects like Marlin, I would highly recommend trying to build a system that can run those firmwares. Even if it means building 2 versions, one with a dedicated 3d printer firmware, and one without.
Hi Tinkernut. There was this one guy who followed your old video tutorial and was able to make it successfully. One comment he made is that the stuff that can be printed are limited to just outlines. Is this true or have you figured how it could make complex shapes? A cube would be nice. Looking forward to the next videos. Thanks!
It's definitely limited because I had to custom write the GCODE. You could use a slicing program, but you'd have to configure it to use whatever settings the 3D printing pen uses...which isn't always that obvious. The filament comes out very thick as well, so you can't get much detail. Also, the limited size of the stepper motors only allow for basically a 2x2x2 inch printing area. If you were good with GCODE, you could write more complex designs, but I kept it simple. It's not the best, but hey, I made my own super cheap 3D printer that works, so that's something :-)
@@Tinkernut I appreciate the reply! It's nice to know the capabilities and limitations of the system. I actually already ordered parts and am following along with your video. Can't wait for the next vid.
Maybe a cheap and easy way to extend the rail length on these things would be necessary to build something really useful out of it? Some kind of worm gear maybe?
This could be the X axis and it could be mounted on an old scanner that would function as the Y axis ... ! it's also gonna be strong enough to hold all the moving parts ....
Tough one. The print area will be small, but the rest is still goigng to be "normal size". Maybe first try to create a xy-table using 2 drives for the credit card sized build area? See how much mass that table can lug around. Is it even possible to build a 3D printer this way? Then add a Bowden extruder to move in z? Trying to have the drive asseblies mounted on a as rigid as possible frame.. No hot glue! (Unless used to secure the solder joints on the steppers, there. :) Although not very creative, maybe just have a big box for the base and hide the electronics in there and put the spool holder on the side?
The plastic piece that runs along the worm gear, that moves the tray back and forth should be replaced with something metal. Cheaper/ newer drives use a single rail and bushings to move the tray, the older the drive and more expensive generally means it has two rails inside with 2 sets of bushings which will be much better for the 3d printer. I had the cheap drives bind on me in the past with projects and break the tabs off the trays that move them. You could get away with getting 4 drives and see how to get two rails and 4 bushings on each drive tray.
3d printers are great and all but face it more axises are always better so simply dont stop with your 3 ones and just add a motor to the printer bed so you can rotate your print during the print. this would speed up especially rotation symetric prints or add one to angle the print bed then you can easily print a barbie house with a balkoony in one go for your daughter or whoever may enjoy that...
I'm making my own 3d printer right now. I am using an arduino mega with ramps motor shield. I have bought some nema 17 stepper motors and i will buy a cheap extruder later. I haven't decided the design yet, should i go for a prusa clone or a cetus clone? Btw i think that having those short axis would create a pretty useless printer, what about trying to extend the motor length with additional screw that rotate with the motor?
zDami if it is at all possible, consider not cheaping out on hotend/extruder assembly. I’ve had lot’s of trouble that went away when I bought a better one (this was 6years ago though 😅)
Hey @Tinkernut, could you perhaps make a video on how to use arduino? Ive used it a few times and its not as easy at you make it seem. Any help would be appreciated, even pointing me in the direction of a different youtuber, although id like to give you the views.
Do you live under a rock, mate? Machines make machines since more than a hundread years. RepRap is more than 10 years old. Don't need to be afraid, you missed the apocalypse.
I think the CD-ROM is a great start for learning, but 1-1/2"sq print size is not going to be fun in the long run. After this build, continue with making it with a longer guide rail. Either way, keep up bud. thanks
make a 3d printer use that 3d printer to print new parts for a bigger 3d printer do this until all the bottle in the world are replaced be sentient 3d printers who begin printing 3d printers with arms and legs fight war against said robots beat them and turn them into plastic recycling robots that have to go around picking up garbage recycling the plastic and giving you anything else they find. ta da the perfect printer
Don't get me wrong, I love your channel and what you do, but after returning from being gone from viewing your videos for a while, there seems to be a small cringe factor. Almost like you're trying a little too hard to be funny. I don't know, just be yourself. Best of luck.
What you see is the product of not having the time to put into videos as I used to. I used to be able to create nice motion graphics, write nicer scripts, but now that I have a family, a book, and a full time job, I don't have the same time to put into videos that I used to. That's why you see more of me and less of the motion graphics. I'm sorry you don't like it, but the only other option is just to stop posting videos. Luckily it seems that not as many viewers share your opinion.
@@Tinkernut I'm glad that you spend time with family. I just hope that you enjoy yourself. I'm happy that you keep posting despite your busy life. Sorry if I caused any offense.
These instructional videos are underrated. There isn't a better explanation of how to turn old CD drives into a 3D printer anywhere else on RUclips.
I'm not looking to build a high-resolution printer - I just want to learn more about these sorts of things. Your videos are great learning tools! Thanks for taking the time to share these with us.
I definitely do like the idea of progressive development with viewer input.
Shame I don't have any yet.
Thinking maybe that the size of the rail in an old scanner/printer would allow for more flexibility in design, expanding the print area. Wondering if you'd lose anything (resolution? control difficulties?) with a larger rail...
Shouldn't as long as the code is good. Scanners tend to be pretty precise.
I think you guys forget that most of us that watch, don't have a clue what your talking about. I'm old school, if you know what I mean. I would love to try to put one of these together, but the more I watch the less I think I can. Just the same, still fun to watch you guys just through these things together.
All I did in this video was disassemble a CD-ROM drive. I'm not sure how much slower I could possibly go.
This was one of the first videos I saw on your channel, long ago! I made a pen plotter out of three CD drives I had laying around thanks to it. I used grbl, some 3D G-code thing I can't remember, and Inkscape for the SVGs. Brings back memories.
I'd consider scrapping out an old inkjet printer. You'll find a much more powerful stepper motor, if you are careful you can reuse the circuitry that runs it and it comes with a larger sled and more sturdy slide rails. Also, you could just connect that motor to a fine threaded rod / nut combo from a hardware store for just a few bucks to make a really stable and precise linear slide mechanism
Jaque a mo fe no a na nae, this is way over my head ♥
I have two ideas I have been toying around with for some time now.
1.
What about a disk(build plate) that sits on top of a lead screw so that whenever you drive the leadscrew, the build plate rotates and goes up or down. Then have one linear axis for the extruder assembly that moves it from the center of the disk to an edge. This would almost double the printing area with the same amount of extruder movement. You can select the pitch of your lead screw to be exactly the layer heigt you want.
2.
I’ve been busy building and designing a desktop printer that has almost no electronics above its build plate, just the hotend and a fan. It’s a nice challenge and looks great
That sounds awesome! Got any pics? I'd like to see it. admin(at)tinkernut.com
Tinkernut I’ve read your reply and will sent you an email as soon as I get the chance with the in dept explanation. You might want to delete your comment now to not get flooded with mails 😉
Why bother with easydriver ? I mean, every other setup use a4988 drivers, that could be easily integrated in a "cnc shield" or "grbl shield", leading to a cleaner design !
my thoughts exactly
I recently salvaged some parts from an old laptop... now looking forward to tinker something cool like thins... Thanks man..! \m/
I used to work on copy machines. If you can get your hands on an old copy machine there is unlimited supplies of stepper motors, rails, and belts available inside.
Glad I found this I’m pumped.
Yay! the CD Drives are back!
Cant wait to see that book
Heh. This video popped up just as I was tinkering with a few old CD players trying to get them to work properly :P
I look forward to the episode where you make a hotend from the CD drive's laser module :)
Haha. Man, that would be great!
That's a goooood playlist i must save
That soldering though! Ugh! Thanks for the video!
My recommendation is to use the finished 3D printer to print the parts for a better one.
Thats like making windows explorer download chrome to replace itself. Here, dig your own grave 3d printer.
@@ERuiz-fe1db Precisely, Internet Explorer is the best browser to download a better browser 😂
Very nice beginning Rob
i used 1old apple scanner and 2 huge 1980's printers..it worked pretty good. but you can use that laser as a 2nd head to engrave items if it's a dvd burner. it can engrave things like wood and low temp plastic.
You could use a driver from floppy disk reader to make it cheaper and give it a new propose as you say on this video... You are amazing
💪👏👌
well, he could, but I think that reusing driver is not worth it on Sata. IDE would be better (it has 1 pin for forward and another pin for backward dir.)
Hell ya you're returning to an old project
great videos!
Thanks for this new version it's a bit slow paced and more in depth. WhenI tried doing almost everything your way from the previous tutorial, I had problems starting PCU. It should be in working condition and I did connect the green pin to ground with a jumper wire. It didn't turn on tho. Any ideas on what could be the issue? Maybe the contact was too loose or something?
Is great that you're doing, so my suggestion to improve it you have to somehow replace the threaded rod for a longer one, in order to grow your printer volume.
I'm in love with your channel !
I've got mine running on a RAMPS 1.4 board. Capable of decent prints, not so good with 'bridges" due to low speed and no cooler. I cut a holder for a V6 hotend out of a block of wood. It's nightmare to look at, but functional.
also you could add a rotating spindle with a number of different tools on it to make it somewhat multifunctional
Look into using an arduino due + a RAMPS shield. It's the most popular setup in the 3D printing community regarding 8 bit boards
so where would you get the the software. is there some library to turn 3D models to stepper motor input?
WILL fill there are multiple parts to the process, first you have to install an interface on the printer (look for marlin or repetier) that can translate Gcode into stepper motor input. Gcode is a standard to talk to cnc’s and 3D printers and such. It tells the interface “hey you need to move to that location and do this and that with the extruder” and the interface drives the motors.
The next layer up is a slicer. A slicer converts a 3D model (usually .stl file) in slices in the form of Gcode. Here you can tweak all kinds of stuff like speed, layer height, how much infill you want,...
I understand this is supposed to be a super low-cost entry into 3d printing, but considering the amount of work that has been put into projects like Marlin, I would highly recommend trying to build a system that can run those firmwares. Even if it means building 2 versions, one with a dedicated 3d printer firmware, and one without.
I recommend that instead of using a 3D pen, use a E3D v6 Clone Hotend.
Hi Tinkernut. There was this one guy who followed your old video tutorial and was able to make it successfully. One comment he made is that the stuff that can be printed are limited to just outlines. Is this true or have you figured how it could make complex shapes? A cube would be nice. Looking forward to the next videos. Thanks!
It's definitely limited because I had to custom write the GCODE. You could use a slicing program, but you'd have to configure it to use whatever settings the 3D printing pen uses...which isn't always that obvious. The filament comes out very thick as well, so you can't get much detail. Also, the limited size of the stepper motors only allow for basically a 2x2x2 inch printing area. If you were good with GCODE, you could write more complex designs, but I kept it simple. It's not the best, but hey, I made my own super cheap 3D printer that works, so that's something :-)
@@Tinkernut I appreciate the reply! It's nice to know the capabilities and limitations of the system. I actually already ordered parts and am following along with your video. Can't wait for the next vid.
Good video.
Do you think as a side note you could touch on using this to make a laser engraver?
I think it would work better as a laser engraver or plotter than a 3D printer
You can also reuse the disk reader's LED as a laser, with a decent constant current circuit
Do you think the wattage would be high enough to burn more that just paper?
I’ve got one mostly assembled. I’m just too cheap to buy the motor controllers and actually finish the project
Maybe a cheap and easy way to extend the rail length on these things would be necessary to build something really useful out of it?
Some kind of worm gear maybe?
This could be the X axis and it could be mounted on an old scanner that would function as the Y axis ... ! it's also gonna be strong enough to hold all the moving parts ....
Tough one. The print area will be small, but the rest is still goigng to be "normal size". Maybe first try to create a xy-table using 2 drives for the credit card sized build area? See how much mass that table can lug around. Is it even possible to build a 3D printer this way? Then add a Bowden extruder to move in z? Trying to have the drive asseblies mounted on a as rigid as possible frame.. No hot glue! (Unless used to secure the solder joints on the steppers, there. :) Although not very creative, maybe just have a big box for the base and hide the electronics in there and put the spool holder on the side?
This is also a life hack and great job.
I wonder if we can use this for 3d scanning.?=???
There should be some good parts in a paper printer!
I have a broken screen 55 inches TV SHARP, what can I do with it?
yaaay finally.
The plastic piece that runs along the worm gear, that moves the tray back and forth should be replaced with something metal. Cheaper/ newer drives use a single rail and bushings to move the tray, the older the drive and more expensive generally means it has two rails inside with 2 sets of bushings which will be much better for the 3d printer. I had the cheap drives bind on me in the past with projects and break the tabs off the trays that move them. You could get away with getting 4 drives and see how to get two rails and 4 bushings on each drive tray.
Qué lindo sería tener traducción al español, tendrías el triple de suscriptores
Can you make a larger one with something like a scanner
3d printers are great and all but face it more axises are always better so simply dont stop with your 3 ones and just add a motor to the printer bed so you can rotate your print during the print. this would speed up especially rotation symetric prints or add one to angle the print bed then you can easily print a barbie house with a balkoony in one go for your daughter or whoever may enjoy that...
Why don't you make a 3-D printer using mechanical parts of scanners like the HP2400? You will get a larger print volume.
Don't have enough spare scanners.
@@Tinkernut Try getting them from a junkyard or a computer repair shop. I've got a lot of such stuff from my local computer repair shop.
Will there be a DRM-free version of the book?
Good question. I'm not sure. I guess the physical copy would be DRM free ;-)
I don't have a clue, but want to build a 3d printer, lead on Mogur . . .
I'm making my own 3d printer right now. I am using an arduino mega with ramps motor shield. I have bought some nema 17 stepper motors and i will buy a cheap extruder later. I haven't decided the design yet, should i go for a prusa clone or a cetus clone? Btw i think that having those short axis would create a pretty useless printer, what about trying to extend the motor length with additional screw that rotate with the motor?
make a hypercube (tech2c)
zDami if it is at all possible, consider not cheaping out on hotend/extruder assembly. I’ve had lot’s of trouble that went away when I bought a better one (this was 6years ago though 😅)
well, for one thing, dont use the msbob cd cuz its valuable
may want to look into l293d instead of a that driver much cheaper but a little harder to use
You should definitely use marlin or grbl in the end.
Look at a 3d printer called cherry 3d printer and can you make a verison of it that can be made with no printed parts
What would you use in place of the 3D printed parts? You'd have to make custom parts somehow.
What happened to your smart car series
Can you make CNC drawing machine with arduino please
The project I initially did using CD-Rom drives was a drawing machine. Please check out my previous videos.
@@Tinkernutthank you
Didn't we do this one before?
Hey @Tinkernut, could you perhaps make a video on how to use arduino? Ive used it a few times and its not as easy at you make it seem. Any help would be appreciated, even pointing me in the direction of a different youtuber, although id like to give you the views.
thx I heve the same pc!
atleast this video is not a giant ad
2:19 No, don't put that disc in, just don't do it. You will regret it if you do.
Oh Microsoft Bob. Oh Clippy.
use grbl shield
I miss the old intro music
It was too brooding. This one is more peppy. I like peppy :-)
Could a 3D printer create a 3D printer? That’ll be the downfall of mankind, self replicating 3D printers. Say goodbye to free desktop space.
Do you live under a rock, mate? Machines make machines since more than a hundread years. RepRap is more than 10 years old. Don't need to be afraid, you missed the apocalypse.
I would love to dodge using a 3d pen, just use a normal extruder, they can be cheaper and get better results
Please make a video on How to Solder , Make pcbs and using perfboards !plzzzz
I would use a plotter.
make a laser engraver!!!
when is pt2????
After a few good recommendations I guess
laser diode into laser engraver well a dvd burners laser diode
4:18 isntead
If you've done this please link. But cad program for free. Linx/Ubuntu proferred. Solid works is free if you're a student or at least it was.
I think the CD-ROM is a great start for learning, but 1-1/2"sq print size is not going to be fun in the long run. After this build, continue with making it with a longer guide rail. Either way, keep up bud. thanks
Skills Needed: Soldering, Programing, Ard??uino
Whoopsie doodle.
make a 3d printer use that 3d printer to print new parts for a bigger 3d printer do this until all the bottle in the world are replaced be sentient 3d printers who begin printing 3d printers with arms and legs fight war against said robots beat them and turn them into plastic recycling robots that have to go around picking up garbage recycling the plastic and giving you anything else they find. ta da the perfect printer
Now try to make a 3D printer out of NOTHING but CD drives and no soldering or gluing etc.
Dont use a blu ray drive if it isnt broken. those are far too valuable.
Valuable for what
Can you please renew your intro
Not sure what that means. Are you offering to create a new intro? Otherwise, I like mine the way it is ;-)
Third
Don't get me wrong, I love your channel and what you do, but after returning from being gone from viewing your videos for a while, there seems to be a small cringe factor. Almost like you're trying a little too hard to be funny. I don't know, just be yourself. Best of luck.
What you see is the product of not having the time to put into videos as I used to. I used to be able to create nice motion graphics, write nicer scripts, but now that I have a family, a book, and a full time job, I don't have the same time to put into videos that I used to. That's why you see more of me and less of the motion graphics. I'm sorry you don't like it, but the only other option is just to stop posting videos. Luckily it seems that not as many viewers share your opinion.
@@Tinkernut I'm glad that you spend time with family. I just hope that you enjoy yourself. I'm happy that you keep posting despite your busy life. Sorry if I caused any offense.
First?
fourth
Stop the cringe 2012 memes please
I don't know, man... 2019 memes are pure cancer.