I Can Do That! Drawer Joinery
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Chad takes the opportunity to trick out his new router table by adding a set of drawers, and uses the process to teach two practical drawer joints that can be used in a variety of woodworking projects. And he gets to use his router table to maintain precision! For the downloadable plans: bit.ly/ICDT_Rou... (clicking this link will start an automatic download which may be prevented by a pop-up blocker).
Click here for more I Can Do That projects: www.popularwoo...
Hello from Germany. I am 51years old and tought myself English. Since you do not speak so fast, i understand you and can follow your explanations. I like your page and download some of your video. that`s how i learn english and work with Wood. I hope you have nothing against the download.
Finally!!! Someone that is using tools the average Joe is going to have. I think this is an excellent job of showing simple drawers for the beginner. A couple of comments. One, in the video, you seem to be catching the workpiece on the fence. Take a fine rasp and break the corner of the hole in the fence, this will cause a smother pass of the workpiece across the hole. Two, if you use type 1 for the drawer front and type 2 for the drawer back, you will get the strength of the draw you are looking for and you won't have to fool around with draw fronts. Again, this is an excellent job and video for some one just starting out.
Thanks just bought my first router.
Would you like a cookie or a pat on the back as your reward?
Excellent video. You are very patient and clear on your explanations. Thank you
agree with you, nice video for a beginner
For the drawer with the interlocking joint, the router table could be set up once to make all the cuts. For true 1/2" stock, set the bit 1/4" high and 1/4" from the fence. For rabbet cuts, run the pieces vertical using the fence. For dado cuts, run the pieces flat to the table. Installing a higher fence would help to keep stock perpendicular to the table.
A series of test cuts would help to make sure the setup is accurate, but once set up the process would go much more quickly.
For small drawers or for drawers that won't hold a lot of weight, 1/4" plywood would serve well for the bottom, reducing the number of router cuts.
Thank you
I appreciate your thoroughness. Good video shots too.
18:34 Notice the reflection in the plastic adjacent to the router. Notice the vertical concavity of the plastic. THE TABLE IS NOT FLAT !!! See the space under the 1/4 inch stock rod... You'll have DIFFERENT PENETRATION for short boards (or the ends of boards ) versus long boards.... (that would bridge across the concavity)
I'm going to be really thrown by the music not starting every time I turn my router on
I'm back again. Respectfully may I say to you that you are missing the beauty of these two 1/4, 1/4 set up. The beauty is to be using 1/2 thick stock and in that the SetUp NEVER has to be changed. To make the cuts that you just changed again the work peace is passed vertically through the router bit. Nothing ever has to be changed that is the beauty of this setup lap joint or mortise and tenon. This is a very old system I used as an apprentice in the '60s and still hasn't changed, until now. lol
You know about videos showing the setup you mention?
@@Expedient_Mensch thanks! 👍
Looks like you need to countersink the head of one of your screws, because EVERYTIME your pieces of wood gets to it & starts to go over it the piece raises up off your table top 1/32nd or so...in case someone hasn't already mentioned it to you.
8:42 That screw in the router table is LIFTING the work piece off the reference table. THAT NEEDS CORRECTION!!!
yup. every cut will be not square now. needs some pressure on the top. or 2 passes.
Why do you bother squaring the fence, or for that matter using the sled ? Absolutely not required, just use a bit of scrap as a backing/push block. Much, much easier and quicker.
I notice that you have a push-block to keep the material to be cut flat on the table and moving forward. Even so, I noticed at 13:16 the material does rise up above the table anyway. This is something that I have also experienced in my attempts at woodworking requiring me to run my material thru the router a second time to make a complete cut. When i am using my router table to create a slot and not just a dado, my slots get cut uneven. I see here that this also happens to you; so i know i am not alone in this struggle. I have been looking at learning how to make drawers and i like the cabinet with drawers that you have made. Awesome. Thank you and best wishes.
badass!
It looks like the weight of your router is causing the plastic plate it's mounted to to flex down making your table not flat. On the short pieces I could see the bit cutting deeper then intended. Besides that great technique. I like using bar stock the measure with.
Exactly what I also was thinking.
I think if you had more than just the four screws under the Plexiglas (like four more closer to the circular hole for the router) it would eliminate the flex.
I was just about to write this to reply this comment
yes i agree, just those four screws closer to the hole and it would work exectly as it should...
glad i saw this reply though :)
Also, the one screw extrude a little pushing the stock up. Look at 09:05-:09:06
To eliminate the issue of the router pulling down on the Plexiglas viewing panel he should build a new table top. This time he needs to make trace the hole using the router bracket. This way the weight is better supported.
I've seen this joint demonstrated before, but the builder only used one set up on the stronger jointed drawer to make all the cuts. To avoid having to set up twice, he stood the end pieces up and cut the rabbit on the outside edge of the vertical ends. (the side away from the fence) It's a little trickier cut, but doable.
Hi Chad. Can you check the dimension for the drawer length on the drawing. I make it 11.5 not 12 as there is 1/4 at both ends which makes up the overall 12".
Would using a thicker piece of plexi-glass take the sag out of the router plate? Subbed!
When I saw your first video I thought it was too simplistic. As I got this on I found myself learning measuring, setup and layout that I was unaware of. Thank you for keeping it simple enough for me.
Hi. I just bought my first heavy duty router and I would like to build this table but I can not download the plans can somebody help me ---thanks
I disagree with "picking up a stock bar at the big store" just to measure things, unless you are going to use it and you you need it, otherwise, it's silly.
This little router table with drawers is kinda cute though the plastic insert is not good at all. I rather use aluminum for that (that's actually what I have done).
That little Rigid router has a bright LED light on the “bottom”, so I have to disrespectfully disagree in this case. However, the aluminum insert would definitely be more stable.
Nice video - very clear.
For the last rabbet on the front and back pieces, you could leave the router setting the same and stand the piece upright. Then you can cut all pieces with the same router setting.
your screws are to high on your router plate!! I did the exact same thing on my router table I built. im probably way to late on the heads up. lol. but keep up the good work. the clear instructions are great for teaching!
I saw about a week ago a video with Chad using a rabbet bit on this router table, i think he was making a door frame maybe? I liked the technique he was using and some of the tips but now i can't find the video. Anyone by chance have any clue what video this was in?
@8:34 I noticed the board being cut rise a little, and I watched it again, the screw holding the plexiglass maybe wasn't countersunk quite enough on this one. Something to keep in mind and tweak to keep things flat. Nice table BTW.
I seen that too
You comment that the front face of the second drawer is not pretty. You actually should switch your cuts so the side cuts are on the front - then you would get a nice finish on the front face. Always make the front/back pieces the full length, and the side pieces the shorter ones.
This bare-bones approach reveals a lot of woodworking technique that goes missing in other vids.
And Chad is a much better instructor when he's not jumping around like a maniac.
I've seen some wood workers use the method of gluing two pieces of wood together and follow up with a finish nailer to keep the pieces "clamped" in place while the glue dries. Once together, the woodworker will use screws as well. What circumstance is this practical and what circumstance is it not practical? I assumed glue was the only thing you needed if clamped properly and time permitted.
Nice video, but I don't think we needed to see you cut every piece. One or two would be good enough.
It seems to me that the plexiglass plate that is used to mount the router from underneath sags a tiny bit. You can see that as he passes (during those close shots) that there is some gapping that occurs. I'm sure that plexiglass is 1/4" so it'll support weight and it's not that long so there shouldn't be that much flexing going on. Chad, did you use 1/4" stock plexiglass. I wonder of there is a 3/8" plexiglass out there?
Thank you for sharing this video on rabbits. I'm a bit nervous as to doing this type of joint. Yes, I'm fairly new to the woodworking world and working on building a router table for my palm router. My first project is to finish some drawers for a table stand I am making for my table saw.
your fence does not need to be 90º to the edge of the table! mumbo jumbo. Don't encourage people to just follow rules, they need to think !
Put small wooden pins on the side will keep the drawer front from pulling off. Do it in walnut so it looks nice.
I like your video, however, that's some weird ass music you play.
I still prefer my Table Saw and Dado stack for this operation. But good video anyway for the beginner as you do a good job of helping them to achieve this task even on a router table that is OK too.
Is that Jimmy Kimmel disguised as Chad Stanton?
The push block also kept the board flat on the table top after the piece went beyond the router bit. Watch the video you will see the short side of the piece lifting as it passes the bit.
Nope I can NOT do that, I have hand tools no chop saw no router table.
those screws, used to secure the plexiglass, were not flush!
Thumb nail shows a wrong set up on one of the drawers. Go figure!
"Good Afternoon, Mr. Chad Stanton. I have a suggestion for u; Try to place the; ShopVac On The Router table Circuit, the reason is; once u turn on the Router On The Router table, Your ShopVac Automatically Turns On And Off. Very Excellent Projects, Remember That The Most Important Safety Rule; Is; 'Safety Shields, And Hearing And Face Protection As Well As Eye Protection', God Bless U Always, Mr. Chad Stanton. Keep Up The Excellent Projects Working NOW AND IN THE FUTURE--From--Mr. Granville S. Wright-Fellow Toastmaster And Admirer Of--Brother Mr. Chad Stanton--From--Towson, MD.,. U.S.A.
Yes, you saw that screw too. BUT, he also didn't have to change his set up for the bottom, it falls into the say condition as the front & backs as to the sides. the same set up works with the bottoms and sides. just like the 1/4, 1/4 set up that makes a mortise and tenon. But, whos counting. PS leaving a bit of material on the outside edge is a telling tail of misalignment too. BUT...lol
There are projects on how to do this on the Stodoys website.
somethings missing , wheres safety Dan
Hah!! Paraffin Wax!! You just answered my question that I left on the router table build video. THANKS!
1/2 Inch plexiglass and a deeper counter sink would fix all these problems mentioned bellow, just keep that in mind if you make this router table. Really great idea, and super simple to make!!! It is not 100% perfect, but it does work really well.
Rewatching this, showed me that when I hacked together a router table, the problem I was having, wasn't anything to do with my bit, just I needed to sand, where I had made my cutting.
Thank you.
I like the video. I will use this method. I did notice though that your fence does not sit flat on the table. Either the fence has a crown or the table is not flat. I can see under it in several shots.
Great video but why was it necessary to align the fence with the front end of the router table. I have been told that it doesn't matter as long as the bit is the proper distance from the fence.
Where's the cigarette smoking, beer drinking, Safety Dan? Not the same Chris, not the same...lol. Selling out to big companies makes it no longer politically correct. Tell Dan he'd make this video MUCH better!
Is your router table sagging or is your fence not straight? If the table is sagging in the middle, you are never going to get a decent cut. If your fence is not straight... well....
It's actually the insert plate. We'll be replacing it with a thicker version that will make the sag go away.
Just wondering. When you made that table, why not make a dado into the table top on both sides? in turn your table wall would fit nice and smooth into the dado crevices, keeping your wall reasonable straight? I am pretty new to routers and having fun. Except almost cutting my finger off last Sunday. Thanks for the video. :P
Thanks a lot. I can do that
By no means am I a router expert, but I'd be more worried about the sub-standard accuracy than the blow out.
I like the idea of the little table with drawers but the actual joinery on the workpiece is pretty shabby. A little refinement and it'd look a hundred times better.
I like the opening disclaimer about safety, and that you constantly remind viewers about it. There is no such thing as a safe machine. The only trustworthy safety device is the human brain. And it only works if you actually use it. I worked in industrial maintenance for thirty years. The first thing I learned is that machines have neither mercy nor morality. If they can hurt you, they will. Machines can supply the force. You have to supply the brains. I still have all my appendages, despite some near misses. The only way that happens of you are ALWAYS thinking about safety
Excellent video, I appreciate your effort and dedication. God bless you.
At 8:33 you can see the workpiece actually lift up as it passes over the screw heads that mount the router to the plate which are not countersunk enough. Then at 8:49, when he flips the workpiece over, you can see scratches from those screw heads. Every cut will be off because the workpiece is not going over the bit flat.
Finally, at 15:13, we see how this comes together. Yep, they do not fit tight. Even squeezing them together there are gaps everywhere. So he would not need to do all of that "clean up" (fixing bad cuts) if the table were flat and the screw heads sunk.
This whole table just seems poorly designed and executed with no attention to detail. How did this get published without someone noticing these things?
no shit, its the big chopperoo
Hi I am Nisar from Pakistan and like it woodworking program and also learning can I learn
Chad, I like the way you explain how you do things, straight forward and simple, how things are made in the real world. Keep up the good work.
Some serious sag in that plate
Thank you so much for this video.You explained everything so awesome. I definitely subscribed.
Is the wood pieces catching on the hole at the router bit? Would it help to router the edge to prevent the corner of the wood from catching?
Which big box store handles 1/2 inch lumber. I can’t find it at Lowe’s or Home Depot. I would love to have a source for 1/2 inch lumber. Please let us know.
Wow , where do you live ? I find 1/2" every day @ H.D. or Lowes ! Go to the hardwood isle in the lumber dept.
One of the bolts holding the plexiglas onto the router is pushing up the workpiece as you move the router over the plexiglas....
Your needing a feather board to keep the object Down, it is Rising as you are passing it through.
Why waste the time of measuring and test cutting if you can't take the time to drive all the screw heads down on your router table...
Tri I need table for too
you could have said that in a nicer way. you should thank this guy for sharing these videos in the first place
That drawer would be a whole lot stronger if the dado were opposite on the sides and front and backs
good idea.. bad execution.. about the worst box joint i've seen... so many gaps. i suggest you make a new router plate also.
Thanks for the info but a dado stack and a table saw is much quicker.
Very basic but I really like the idea of the setup using the bar to check for distance, Good job on the presentation, good ideas on using the square and checking all sides for the same distance to fence.
And godalmightylosethemusic
I think this is a good demo with limited resources and economic sense, longevity of the after product and good finish
Your table is not as flat as it need to be. So you get not so good cuts. You can see it if you start to touch the router bit.
Great video. I watched other videos that made my eye twitch before I found this one. You made it easy to comprehend. You have a fantastic teaching Style. Thank you.
Would like to have seen some kind of nails on first drawer. Otherwise it will not hold. ?
that router is causing the plexi glass to sag. whats the point in the plexiglass anyway?
..but before we use any power tools, let's take a tip from Safety Dan.....
I watch your interesting video until the annoying music came on then I checked out.
Interesting talk
I have had the oportunity to make the same router table and it has been so funny
great job chad
what if u use masking tap when u routtring ungrain it may not blow
Where is Dan?
Love the video sir!
Question:
Would that non-locking rebate joint be like a "quarter blind rabbit joint"?
I'm kinda excited about seeing this joint made because I'm a beekeeper and most wooden bee boxes you see are a box joint
But 50% of each board is exposed to the weather. And if you get confused during cutting the box joints you can ruin a whole board.
And furthermore, I believe this is the joint for me because the math is easy. On a 3/4" board each shoulder would be 1/4".
And only exposing 1 board's end grain at 1/4".
It's perfect!😆
You should do a video on new earplugs next, I throw up in my mouth a little.
Nice clear explanation of some basic joinery for basic drawer construction. Thank you Chad !
A feather board is a must.
This is the "quarter-quarter-quarter" drawer box method. So much easier and faster to do on a table saw imho. I have my old Dewalt construction saw set up with a dado blade just for this and I never change the settings unless I'm doing drawers in other than 1/2" stock. And you can make all your cuts without changing anything.
Table saw + dado blade isn't beginner level woodworking. A Dewalt table saw and a dado blade is far from affordable if you're just starting out. On top of that, parts of the world cannot use dado blades at all - European table saws are manufactured so they don't fit, because of safety regulations.
@@Gisburne2000 yep. Same in NZ. I don’t know if we have safety refs against them but I never see them, and mine certainly isn’t. It’s frustrating to think I’ve found something to follow then the first thing they do is set up a dado.
If I want a dado/rabbit I have to use a router
Thank you very very much for this project!
I learn a lot from it! Sincerely thanks ;)
I resized for my skil router, and worked fine!
J
Hello Chad; We are waiting for more great projects from you using that router table. I like your style and craftmanship. Please more projects
Sloppy
You need to buy a decent router table. Why do you need to check if the fence is square or not
True, you get what you pay for. I definitely agree with you. However, this show is for beginners who may not have the money yet to purchase a router table. And to answer the question, the fence should be square because if you are pushing stock perpendicular to the fence it will not make the cut square and accurate on the work piece. Thank for watching. We appreciate it.
Great video. I would stay away from using steel stock to set the bit height and fence spacing. If you're using carbide tipped bits, the steel can very easily chip the carbide, use aluminium instead. The softer metal is far less likely to chip the carbide.
I would suggest making a set of hardwood gauge blocks in commonly used increments for set ups.
I have found that steel isn't very accurate unless you mill it to the accuracy you need. I'd prefer brass or aluminum stock, or even hardwood.
your plexy is too thin 3/8 would kept it from saging in the center from router weight
It's not just the Plexiglas, it's the entire table top. Very poorly made.
The router sounds like a dentist's drill, so I had to turn off the sound.
i learned a new way to do drawers. thanks. looking forward to more videos
Very nice compact table with drawers :-) thanks Chad!