I installed the blades bevel up and I struggle with it. I am of course a novice too this. I sharpened the blades like you showed and yup they are sharp. If I installed them correctly then I bet it is a matter of me setting them properly. Looking forward to your advice.
The fun part! Scrap wood and making shavings. No plan just long smooth strokes. Bevel the corners then use the curved blade to round them off. Start with no shaving and tap it down til it just starts cutting. Change direction just to see what happens. It is a finishing tool. Have fun. 😁😎
So what is your (tentative) verdict? Do you think it could become your "go-to" tool for making custom hammer & ax handles? Or is it more the type of tool to produce super smoothed dowels in one particular size?
Brian Neeley I doubt it will be a goto tool. It will work for the narrower radii on axe and hammer handles. I usually buy blanks for them. Most of my handles are chisel and drill handles made on the lathe.
On this iron spokeshave the bevel is down. The cutting angle is established by the angle between the sole and the blade mount. The bevel is there so the leading edge of the blade contacts the wood and the trailing edge is not in contact. Since the blade angle is set by the body of the shave at about 35 to 40 degrees if you put the blade in bevel up that puts the cutting edge at about 80 degrees to the surface. It won't cut as much as scrape. Think of it like using a jack knife. If you lay the jack knife blade flat on the wood it won't cut. You have to raise the back of the blade up so the edge digs in.
I ran the process at 4X speed perhaps you didn't notice. At 4:32 I show you how I mounted the blade to an improvised handle then for the next 3 minutes and 30 seconds I show you how I used shaped stones to sharpen the curve and the waterstones to flatten and polish the blade. The process ends at 7:56 with the blade sharp and ready for the following testing. I have found that If I don't speed up the repetative work the audience drifts away.
F4u-SuperCorsair Thanks for mentioning your concern. Most people just hit the dislike and go on. 😕 It's a balancing act. Too much information and I can feel the eyes slamming shut. Too little and what's the point. I settled on 4X so the viewer can still see that the stuff is happening but it makes you watch to see it. On a computer you can set the speed at 1/4 speed to see the 4X in real time.
There isn't a prefect amount. That depends on what kind of work you are doing. That is found by by trial and error. You watched me tapping on the blade to the point where it started cutting. Then I tapped the blade out until it cut like I wanted it to. Relying on someone to tell you exactly how much stickout of the blade to have only works if your tools are exactly the same as the person telling you and you are doing exactly the same cut in exactly the same material. Practice setting the blade to what you want it to be.
I have that shave. it was a gift from my Uncle. TY for showing me how to address the curved blade.
Glad it worked for you.
Another one bites the non-rust. Only an unlimited number to go! Sweet job, Unc!
I installed the blades bevel up and I struggle with it. I am of course a novice too this. I sharpened the blades like you showed and yup they are sharp. If I installed them correctly then I bet it is a matter of me setting them properly. Looking forward to your advice.
Any improvement from setting the blade bevel down?
@@OldSneelock Greatly improved. Just need to learn it better.
The fun part!
Scrap wood and making shavings. No plan just long smooth strokes.
Bevel the corners then use the curved blade to round them off.
Start with no shaving and tap it down til it just starts cutting.
Change direction just to see what happens.
It is a finishing tool.
Have fun. 😁😎
@@OldSneelock TY
That's the part I was waiting on. I learned how to address the curve in blades. Thanks.
..it turned out Great Bossman!!...
Ol James Thanks Tim. I think with some practice it will be a real asset.
So what is your (tentative) verdict? Do you think it could become your "go-to" tool for making custom hammer & ax handles? Or is it more the type of tool to produce super smoothed dowels in one particular size?
Brian Neeley I doubt it will be a goto tool. It will work for the narrower radii on axe and hammer handles. I usually buy blanks for them. Most of my handles are chisel and drill handles made on the lathe.
Bevel up or down?
On this iron spokeshave the bevel is down.
The cutting angle is established by the angle between the sole and the blade mount. The bevel is there so the leading edge of the blade contacts the wood and the trailing edge is not in contact.
Since the blade angle is set by the body of the shave at about 35 to 40 degrees if you put the blade in bevel up that puts the cutting edge at about 80 degrees to the surface. It won't cut as much as scrape.
Think of it like using a jack knife. If you lay the jack knife blade flat on the wood it won't cut. You have to raise the back of the blade up so the edge digs in.
thanks seeya next step.
pretty sure you get better results if you go with the grain of the wood
oledognes Yup.
The only thing you didn't show was how you sharpened the curved blade. I have to that I have to sharpen.
I ran the process at 4X speed perhaps you didn't notice.
At 4:32 I show you how I mounted the blade to an improvised handle then for the next 3 minutes and 30 seconds I show you how I used shaped stones to sharpen the curve and the waterstones to flatten and polish the blade. The process ends at 7:56 with the blade sharp and ready for the following testing.
I have found that If I don't speed up the repetative work the audience drifts away.
Yea I must have dosed off for a few seconds and missed it.
F4u-SuperCorsair Thanks for mentioning your concern. Most people just hit the dislike and go on. 😕
It's a balancing act. Too much information and I can feel the eyes slamming shut. Too little and what's the point. I settled on 4X so the viewer can still see that the stuff is happening but it makes you watch to see it. On a computer you can set the speed at 1/4 speed to see the 4X in real time.
BEVEL UP OR DOWN ?
Mike Tarzwell Down. With the bevel up it would have the cutting edge 90 degree to the surface.
How about showing the AMOUNT a blade should protrude? Showing your finger & hands does NOT help !
There isn't a prefect amount. That depends on what kind of work you are doing. That is found by by trial and error. You watched me tapping on the blade to the point where it started cutting. Then I tapped the blade out until it cut like I wanted it to.
Relying on someone to tell you exactly how much stickout of the blade to have only works if your tools are exactly the same as the person telling you and you are doing exactly the same cut in exactly the same material. Practice setting the blade to what you want it to be.