This has to be the best detailed video anywhere out there to build a shed of any kind. Even a total rookie can do it, learned so much, Thank You for your knowledge and taking the Time showing each step !! Simply amazing,
I'm building some of these this week to dress up an existing gable. I envisioned doing it in a similar way but definitely got some helpful tips. Great video. Thanks!!
Thank you so much for theses video's I have made my first large project shed and now can make more Thank YOu SO Much I watch what I am building at that moment and can go do it myself without any help. that is so cool. Thanks again such a good teacher
Thanks for the video. I did rakes a long time ago and couldn’t remember exactly how they were done. I remember having a lot of trouble with them and your way is much easier than however I did it back in the day.
I know it's been awhile since you made theses videos but I just want to thank you for doing so. I'm building my house alone and this is my second house in 40 years always end up building without a plan and just have to figure things out and try to remember what I learned in the past work I helped on in a apartment house job. Your rake video is just what I needed to see for building the roof on the alcove I'm building for my woodstove except mine is a gambrel roof shape. Thank you again!
With the way you built the trusses, couldn’t you have just used the top truss chord template and made 8 extra for use in the ladders? Great series of videos! About to start an 8’x12’ side entry shed. 👍
Uff I wish I would've seen this video 2 days ago when I built mine out of 2x6 I tho ir was gonna be stronger but they hang. Ducks now I'm gonna do them again out of 2x4. Thanks again
These are great videos especially for someone like me who had no experience building a shed. I wish I had watched them all before i started my 8 ft by 8ft shed with gable roof. I am curious as to what tool is being used to drive the long screws. It looks so easy compared to my cumbersome effort with screws especially when having to screw above head level. I have a nice Dewalt drill that i use a torx bit in for driving deck screws but usually need both hands to start the screw and often it slips off the bit. It seems you are using some type of bit that fits over the screw head and you can screw them in single handedly with the greatest of ease and proficiency.
Glad you like the videos. The screws are Robertson and I am not sure it they are available in the USA yet - apparently the inventor in Canada had some dispute or issue with the USA many years ago and refused to allow them to be made and sold there which seems nuts as the market would be huge.
Hello Henry Reinders. Thanks for your videos. I added modified rake ladder assemblies to my salt box project after seeing yours. Made temp fascia support and roof decking jigs, too. Cheers.
Great videos. I noticed you are measuring the length of your soffit ladders, but wouldn't they be the exact same length as the roof trusses? If not, why?
If I was building a larger structure were people would spend a lot of time, I would use nails and sheathing e.g. Garage, Cabin or House. However, for a small shed screws should be fine. If you are concerned about shear strength, you would be best to use plywood sheathing over the framing and then add your exterior materials e.g. siding, hardie plank etc. Our main reason for using screws is it makes it easier for someone working on their own to do the whole shed without help. Also, these days almost everyone has a screw gun but not so many have framing nailers and a large enough compressor to provide enough air. You could hand nail but we opted for screws. Lastly, if in doubt, check with your local building department and ask. But keep in mind, most structures under 120 sq ft do not require a permit in most areas of North America (this varies by location).
THESE VIDEO SERIES ARE AWESOME!!!! I'm currently constructing a 10'x12' gable shed and have watched 6 of the videos so far in your series. I'm surprised that there aren't more views. Your explanations are exceptional (much better than the magazine I've been using)! One question- Is it structurally sound to make roof trusses with collar ties instead of installing the joist at the bottom as you did in a previous video? I would like to utilize the attic space as well without installing a beam.
We did consider this for the shed but it was a bit to small for that. The way I would do it is to keep the full trusses but only have 2 in the center using collar ties. by doing so, you can lay plywood on the bottom chords of the full trusses and the opening created in the middle trusses allows you to get access into the attic space to load extra stuff - if you plan on storing heavy stuff, 2x6 bottom chords might be in order... that will be your call on that one as I don't know how you will use this space (if it is just garden tools and a few cans of paint, 2x4's should be more than good enough). P.S. Glad you like the videos and thank you!
Do the hurricane clips make it so my sheathing from the wall doesnt have to tie into my gable? Or does the gable sheathing still need to be nailed or screwed into my top plate? The way I drew my plans, 8 foot smart side panels will end up flush with the top of my 2nd top plate, do I need to make my studs longer to allow my gable sheathing to hit the top plate?
Hurricane ties are used mainly for areas prone to high winds to prevent the roof from lifting off the main structure. As long as the hurricane ties are secured to lumber that is also secure with the sheathing, you should be fine. If you live in an area where high winds are not common, then it is not as important.
That is why we took the time to figure out easy ways to do this without an extra hand... and the extra hand I had available was holding the camcorder ;-)
Its gotta suck for all of you guys n gals who ask questions and comments only to no be replied to...geeze I know we all get busy but dang take some time to give back to us who take time to watch your videos
Hi Jeremy... We considered doing this but prior to coming up with the final design we looked at a couple hundred sheds, both online and offline, and noticed that 99% of them did not have gutters. Hence we opted for a visually appealing design that would be easier for the DIY'er to build. If a person wants gutters, it is not too hard to modify the design to incorporate gutters.
Yeah, I understand. One thing is is that since you are already cutting the top of the rafter a certain angle the tail shouldn’t be too hard. Then use the rafter as a template. Also, it would be wise to measure the ladder based on the layout of the plywood to reduce waste. Either way you do good quality work. And explain your process well. Happy 2021!
Sreange you put siding on, then attached the ladders over it. If the siding ever needed to be replaced, the roof is tied into it and that's a mess! When building out-buildings, i attach the ladder to the end rafter, THEN install siding panels I marked to cut for fit before the ladders were permantly attached.
Well, it is actually easier to do it this way as you don't have to measure and fit the panels to the ladders afterwards... which would take more time, and the ladders ensure the panels will never lift - and this way, you get a perfect looking fit if you decide to not use a top trim. If the panels ever have to be replaced a FEIN Oscillating Multi-Tool or other brand would make quick work of cutting and removing the panels. I would also think, that by the time these top panels rot and need to be replaced, the rest of the shed would be in pretty rough shape and need replacing.
@@Countrylifeprojects Some of what you say is practical, but it isn't hard to fit it the way i said. Rough-cut the top panels just to not protrude above the common rafter, clamp ladder as you did, scribe the edge of the ladder on panel, then install ladder without the panel sandwiched behind it. This will provide a good fit with very little additional effort.
You could, but I am not sure why you would want to. If you put up the panels first you don't have to be as precise with your cutting. If you install the panels afterwards, you have to measure, layout the angle on the panels, cut and install - if you do them prior, you just put them up, mark off the back, cut and install - much easier IMO.
+Sergio A. Hi Sergio... I would only use it for a house if the overhang is 16" or less. My preference on a house or garage is to make the gable end trusses lower than the inner trusses (the height of a 2x4) and then cantilever the overhang framing from the second truss out across the gable truss - this is stronger and better for any structure that requires a sizable investment. The ladder system is fine for sheds and small outbuildings.
Can I build the roof rake ladders while I wait for the delivery of the smart side panels? Would there be a difference in measurements if I build them before or after the installation of the panels?
Hi Laurel... if you are using our plans and building exactly to the measurements in the plans, there is no reason you can't build these ahead of time. All measurements in our plans are from actual shed builds so we know they are 100% accurate.
Thank you for this video. It's awsome. I can't wait to start buiding this shed with my husband. By the way, How much roughly the total cost of this Shed that you built?
Nice job but shouldn't the rafter ends be at the same angle as you've done at the peak / ridge of the roof instead of at the angle they're constructed at ? Will it not look odd if eavestrough is installed on the angle shown ?
It would if most people used gutters on their sheds... however, before I committed to this design I checked out how many people actually used gutters on there sheds - roughly 1.5%. Hence I opted for a finished rafter end that was easiest for most DIY'r folks and not for the use of gutters.
Understand but I'm not referring only to a trough installation .. if the DIYer is capable of cutting the angle at the top of the ridge why not use that same angle on the end of the board at the eave ? At a 90 degree angle to the ground as most buildings have . Personal choice is all .
Yes typically on a house or garage you will find this. However, consider that there is no angle cuts except the 45 degree corners with this design - that makes fitting soffit materials easier as well as almost all other materials involved in the overhang and ends of rafters which does make it easier for most people. I do touch on the angled option as you describe in one of my videos.Also, with the typical rafter cut where you keep the angle the same as the ridge (or simply level vertically) your gable fascia would need to be wider (higher to hide the eavestrough fascia ends) and your side fascia need to be deeper in height. Also your first run of soffit board needs to be cut on an angle. All in all, although your point is correct, but for a shed, the option I used does make it easier with far less angle cuts - and I do think for many people, easier to get good results. It also makes the roofing a little easier and if a person does not plan to use gutters this design, ensures that run off water will not touch the fascia boards (at least on the sides) - but that said, your point is valid and correct for most construction, but in the case of sheds, it is truly personal choice.
Maybe drywall screws would be bad, they are brittle. But Decking screws are made for structural integrity, right? this is more of a question. They aren't hardened and brittle, they will bend like a nail?
Drywall screws are brittle and should never be used where strength is needed. Best to use decking screws for decking (they will be coated for decking and PT lumber - should specify PT) and construction screws for anything construction related and not exposed to the elements.
For anything that goes into treated wood, we use coated screws for PT. All others are regular construction screws (typically brass colored in appearance although they are steel).
Well, that would depend on the wood and if it is fairly clear of knots. If you are wanting to increase the overhang beyond say 16" then you are better off to make the gable trusses smaller (by the 3 1/2" if using 2x4) and cantilever the rake components over the gable truss and secured to the first inner truss... then you can make the overhang 24" or even 30". Hard to explain in a text reply but if you do a little google search you will find plenty of examples of how to frame the overhang for this. The method we use for the shed is fine to 16" but that is the max I would recommend using the ladder method in our videos - regardless of the materials used for sheathing.
Hi Husky... Not really, by doing the siding first you can simply mark the backs and cut them and if they are a little smaller it all gets hidden behind the ladders (and the ladders help hold siding in place). If you do it after, you have to measure and fit to underside of ladders and IMO much more time consuming.
My dad always switched hands when drilling or driving screws said, can't have just one big arm muscle an why make one arm always tired? But I don't switch as much unless with positioning need an I never see any builder like here ever change drivers from dominate hand? You should, like dad said, need matching muscles!
For building a house or garage I would agree, but for small shed construction screws are more than strong enough. We opted for screws as they make it much easier to hold and fasten various parts when working alone. And these videos are made for the average DIY'er who likely will not own a framing nailer, or always have help available when building their shed.
Not at all... lots of tradesmen or guys that do a lot of construction tend to overlook the limited number of tools the average DIY'er has - usually not a lot. But a drill with a screw bit or an impact hammer is a pretty good bet these days.
This has to be the best detailed video anywhere out there to build a shed of any kind. Even a total rookie can do it, learned so much, Thank You for your knowledge and taking the Time showing each step !! Simply amazing,
I'm building some of these this week to dress up an existing gable. I envisioned doing it in a similar way but definitely got some helpful tips. Great video. Thanks!!
You are awesome for sharing this!
Thank you for the tip on the blocking boards.
I ended up using my nail gun with framing nails instead.
This guy knows all the tricks!!
Thank you so much for theses video's I have made my first large project shed and now can make more Thank YOu SO Much I watch what I am building at that moment and can go do it myself without any help. that is so cool. Thanks again such a good teacher
Thanks for sharing I still lornig everyday
Top notch craftmanship.
Thanks for the video. I did rakes a long time ago and couldn’t remember exactly how they were done. I remember having a lot of trouble with them and your way is much easier than however I did it back in the day.
Well explained!
No-nonsense and helpful. You just gained a subscriber.
Great work - you need a framing nailer for xmas
I know it's been awhile since you made theses videos but I just want to thank you for doing so. I'm building my house alone and this is my second house in 40 years always end up building without a plan and just have to figure things out and try to remember what I learned in the past work I helped on in a apartment house job. Your rake video is just what I needed to see for building the roof on the alcove I'm building for my woodstove except mine is a gambrel roof shape. Thank you again!
Excellent work and instruction.
good video, i got a job building over hang on an old wartime house this was very usefull information
How did it go?
Thanks for these great tutorial videos. It would be great is you can also introduce building a car garage step by step.
You the man.
I was wondering how can I do mine as a one man. Thanks for the video with out this video I would be lost.
Nice videos.
With the way you built the trusses, couldn’t you have just used the top truss chord template and made 8 extra for use in the ladders? Great series of videos! About to start an 8’x12’ side entry shed. 👍
Uff I wish I would've seen this video 2 days ago when I built mine out of 2x6 I tho ir was gonna be stronger but they hang. Ducks now I'm gonna do them again out of 2x4. Thanks again
Thanks you for sharing this beautiful video with Excellent Explanation,good job, I am sure that I will do this.
These are great videos especially for someone like me who had no experience building a shed. I wish I had watched them all before i started my 8 ft by 8ft shed with gable roof. I am curious as to what tool is being used to drive the long screws. It looks so easy compared to my cumbersome effort with screws especially when having to screw above head level. I have a nice Dewalt drill that i use a torx bit in for driving deck screws but usually need both hands to start the screw and often it slips off the bit. It seems you are using some type of bit that fits over the screw head and you can screw them in single handedly with the greatest of ease and proficiency.
Glad you like the videos. The screws are Robertson and I am not sure it they are available in the USA yet - apparently the inventor in Canada had some dispute or issue with the USA many years ago and refused to allow them to be made and sold there which seems nuts as the market would be huge.
Well done on this video. I was looking for a way to secure my overhang and this answered my question.
Hello Henry Reinders. Thanks for your videos. I added modified rake ladder assemblies to my salt box project after seeing yours. Made temp fascia support and roof decking jigs, too. Cheers.
Good
Nice video series. Quite helpful to clear those doubts while in similar projects, thumbs up.
PS: Anybody noticed the butterfly flying by at 0:25? ;-)
Great job👍
Good job 👍👍
Great videos. I noticed you are measuring the length of your soffit ladders, but wouldn't they be the exact same length as the roof trusses? If not, why?
Great video.
What brand of paint and name of the green color?
Thanks
Are the screws structurally strong enough for framing? I’ve heard for shear strength it was better to use nails when framing.
If I was building a larger structure were people would spend a lot of time, I would use nails and sheathing e.g. Garage, Cabin or House. However, for a small shed screws should be fine. If you are concerned about shear strength, you would be best to use plywood sheathing over the framing and then add your exterior materials e.g. siding, hardie plank etc.
Our main reason for using screws is it makes it easier for someone working on their own to do the whole shed without help. Also, these days almost everyone has a screw gun but not so many have framing nailers and a large enough compressor to provide enough air. You could hand nail but we opted for screws. Lastly, if in doubt, check with your local building department and ask. But keep in mind, most structures under 120 sq ft do not require a permit in most areas of North America (this varies by location).
Country Life Projects & Living Thank you for the quick reply.
@@Countrylifeprojects---- would 1/2 deck screws and 1/2 s.s screws be a good option?
Man, you sure screwed that ladder together fast!!
His attention to detail is Great. I’m still thinking he’s a 1/32 nd off on the left side .
His attention is good..however yours is great
THESE VIDEO SERIES ARE AWESOME!!!! I'm currently constructing a 10'x12' gable shed and have watched 6 of the videos so far in your series. I'm surprised that there aren't more views. Your explanations are exceptional (much better than the magazine I've been using)! One question- Is it structurally sound to make roof trusses with collar ties instead of installing the joist at the bottom as you did in a previous video? I would like to utilize the attic space as well without installing a beam.
We did consider this for the shed but it was a bit to small for that. The way I would do it is to keep the full trusses but only have 2 in the center using collar ties. by doing so, you can lay plywood on the bottom chords of the full trusses and the opening created in the middle trusses allows you to get access into the attic space to load extra stuff - if you plan on storing heavy stuff, 2x6 bottom chords might be in order... that will be your call on that one as I don't know how you will use this space (if it is just garden tools and a few cans of paint, 2x4's should be more than good enough). P.S. Glad you like the videos and thank you!
The bottom chords I refer to are what you were calling joists - just want to make sure we are on the same page and I am clear in explaining the idea.
Country Life Projects & Living Great idea! Thanks!!
Do the hurricane clips make it so my sheathing from the wall doesnt have to tie into my gable? Or does the gable sheathing still need to be nailed or screwed into my top plate? The way I drew my plans, 8 foot smart side panels will end up flush with the top of my 2nd top plate, do I need to make my studs longer to allow my gable sheathing to hit the top plate?
Hurricane ties are used mainly for areas prone to high winds to prevent the roof from lifting off the main structure. As long as the hurricane ties are secured to lumber that is also secure with the sheathing, you should be fine. If you live in an area where high winds are not common, then it is not as important.
Amazing work!
I was thinking the same thing. Professional carpentry work here vs handyman work.
These videos are really usefull,thanks alot
Looks very easy but when you work alone it's difficult. I'm doing it for my moms house 🏡. And it's about 13' high. Peak.
That is why we took the time to figure out easy ways to do this without an extra hand... and the extra hand I had available was holding the camcorder ;-)
Country Life Projects & Living Understand. Lol.
Its gotta suck for all of you guys n gals who ask questions and comments only to no be replied to...geeze I know we all get busy but dang take some time to give back to us who take time to watch your videos
Hi Shawn... I frequently reply to comments on videos. Primarily those that are questions.
Seems like it would be prudent to have the ends cut plumb so you can hang gutters.
Hi Jeremy... We considered doing this but prior to coming up with the final design we looked at a couple hundred sheds, both online and offline, and noticed that 99% of them did not have gutters. Hence we opted for a visually appealing design that would be easier for the DIY'er to build. If a person wants gutters, it is not too hard to modify the design to incorporate gutters.
Yeah, I understand. One thing is is that since you are already cutting the top of the rafter a certain angle the tail shouldn’t be too hard.
Then use the rafter as a template.
Also, it would be wise to measure the ladder based on the layout of the plywood to reduce waste.
Either way you do good quality work. And explain your process well. Happy 2021!
Sreange you put siding on, then attached the ladders over it. If the siding ever needed to be replaced, the roof is tied into it and that's a mess! When building out-buildings, i attach the ladder to the end rafter, THEN install siding panels I marked to cut for fit before the ladders were permantly attached.
Well, it is actually easier to do it this way as you don't have to measure and fit the panels to the ladders afterwards... which would take more time, and the ladders ensure the panels will never lift - and this way, you get a perfect looking fit if you decide to not use a top trim. If the panels ever have to be replaced a FEIN Oscillating Multi-Tool or other brand would make quick work of cutting and removing the panels. I would also think, that by the time these top panels rot and need to be replaced, the rest of the shed would be in pretty rough shape and need replacing.
@@Countrylifeprojects Some of what you say is practical, but it isn't hard to fit it the way i said. Rough-cut the top panels just to not protrude above the common rafter, clamp ladder as you did, scribe the edge of the ladder on panel, then install ladder without the panel sandwiched behind it. This will provide a good fit with very little additional effort.
Could I not install the ladders first and then do the lp panels on the front and the back?
You could, but I am not sure why you would want to. If you put up the panels first you don't have to be as precise with your cutting. If you install the panels afterwards, you have to measure, layout the angle on the panels, cut and install - if you do them prior, you just put them up, mark off the back, cut and install - much easier IMO.
nice video and instructions, question?
can this ladder system be done in the house gable? is 14'wide roof pitch is 6:12
thanks!
+Sergio A. Hi Sergio... I would only use it for a house if the overhang is 16" or less. My preference on a house or garage is to make the gable end trusses lower than the inner trusses (the height of a 2x4) and then cantilever the overhang framing from the second truss out across the gable truss - this is stronger and better for any structure that requires a sizable investment. The ladder system is fine for sheds and small outbuildings.
Can I build the roof rake ladders while I wait for the delivery of the smart side panels? Would there be a difference in measurements if I build them before or after the installation of the panels?
Hi Laurel... if you are using our plans and building exactly to the measurements in the plans, there is no reason you can't build these ahead of time. All measurements in our plans are from actual shed builds so we know they are 100% accurate.
Country Life Projects & Living Thank you Henry!
I have a Question, is your 10x12 shed plan 10’ deep x 12’ wide
No... it is 3" less on both the width and length.
I'm building these now, and due to roof sag, there's a gap at the bottom, but I don't care.
Thank you for this video. It's awsome. I can't wait to start buiding this shed with my husband. By the way, How much roughly the total cost of this Shed that you built?
How did it turn out?
Nice job but shouldn't the rafter ends be at the same angle as you've done at the peak / ridge of the roof instead of at the angle they're constructed at ?
Will it not look odd if eavestrough is installed on the angle shown ?
It would if most people used gutters on their sheds... however, before I committed to this design I checked out how many people actually used gutters on there sheds - roughly 1.5%. Hence I opted for a finished rafter end that was easiest for most DIY'r folks and not for the use of gutters.
Understand but I'm not referring only to a trough installation ..
if the DIYer is capable of cutting the angle at the top of the ridge why not use that same angle on the end of the board at the eave ? At a 90 degree angle to the ground as most buildings have .
Personal choice is all .
Yes typically on a house or garage you will find this. However, consider that there is no angle cuts except the 45 degree corners with this design - that makes fitting soffit materials easier as well as almost all other materials involved in the overhang and ends of rafters which does make it easier for most people. I do touch on the angled option as you describe in one of my videos.Also, with the typical rafter cut where you keep the angle the same as the ridge (or simply level vertically) your gable fascia would need to be wider (higher to hide the eavestrough fascia ends) and your side fascia need to be deeper in height. Also your first run of soffit board needs to be cut on an angle. All in all, although your point is correct, but for a shed, the option I used does make it easier with far less angle cuts - and I do think for many people, easier to get good results. It also makes the roofing a little easier and if a person does not plan to use gutters this design, ensures that run off water will not touch the fascia boards (at least on the sides) - but that said, your point is valid and correct for most construction, but in the case of sheds, it is truly personal choice.
what types of screws did u use on the ladders, as well as the ladder to the shed?
DominionofGod 3" construction screws for both.
Maybe drywall screws would be bad, they are brittle. But Decking screws are made for structural integrity, right? this is more of a question. They aren't hardened and brittle, they will bend like a nail?
Drywall screws are brittle and should never be used where strength is needed. Best to use decking screws for decking (they will be coated for decking and PT lumber - should specify PT) and construction screws for anything construction related and not exposed to the elements.
What type of screws are you using
For anything that goes into treated wood, we use coated screws for PT. All others are regular construction screws (typically brass colored in appearance although they are steel).
How far out can you go if I have 6" roof plank 3/4" thick?
Well, that would depend on the wood and if it is fairly clear of knots. If you are wanting to increase the overhang beyond say 16" then you are better off to make the gable trusses smaller (by the 3 1/2" if using 2x4) and cantilever the rake components over the gable truss and secured to the first inner truss... then you can make the overhang 24" or even 30". Hard to explain in a text reply but if you do a little google search you will find plenty of examples of how to frame the overhang for this. The method we use for the shed is fine to 16" but that is the max I would recommend using the ladder method in our videos - regardless of the materials used for sheathing.
sure do love that clamp eh?
Wouldn't it be better to attach the ladders prior to putting on the siding?
Hi Husky... Not really, by doing the siding first you can simply mark the backs and cut them and if they are a little smaller it all gets hidden behind the ladders (and the ladders help hold siding in place). If you do it after, you have to measure and fit to underside of ladders and IMO much more time consuming.
My dad always switched hands when drilling or driving screws said, can't have just one big arm muscle an why make one arm always tired? But I don't switch as much unless with positioning need an I never see any builder like here ever change drivers from dominate hand? You should, like dad said, need matching muscles!
This rules.
Great work. Please use safety glasses.
Usually do... when filming, setting up etc it can be easy to overlook occasionally.
Country Life Projects & Living I agree, not trying to be a jerk, just pointing out safety. Again, nice job.
Its always good to point out safety precautions if overlooked :-)
Cool except for you should be using nails. Nails are much stronger
For building a house or garage I would agree, but for small shed construction screws are more than strong enough. We opted for screws as they make it much easier to hold and fasten various parts when working alone. And these videos are made for the average DIY'er who likely will not own a framing nailer, or always have help available when building their shed.
Country Life Projects & Living yes I understand and to screws will help keep things from twisting. You're smart and I'm dumb
Country Life Projects & Living you know what though I hate nail guns that's why I hand drive everything
Not at all... lots of tradesmen or guys that do a lot of construction tend to overlook the limited number of tools the average DIY'er has - usually not a lot. But a drill with a screw bit or an impact hammer is a pretty good bet these days.