I’m 72 and finally building a proper workbench using 2 3/8” x8’ section of a piece of maple from a bowling alley. I am mounting a homemade Pask makes vice . Wish I had seen this vice before but I’ll try the one I made first. If it does not work I can redo it using the features of your vice , I especially like the rectangular tubes and method of adjusting the vice to eliminate or reduce any racking. Thanks for the overview of the various vices and their uses and misgivings. As always your video was complete ,easy to follow and understand. Greetings from Maine.
My face vise is a vintage Record 53 DE which is fine for most uses. Rob is spot on in that it does not work well for dovetailing...especially for longer pieces. Had to make a Moxon vise to solve that problem.
I was in need of a bench vise since building my workbench almost 2 years ago, I originally ordered a Rockler branded one but it never showed up, and their customer service was so bad, I wasn't going to order from them again. After watching this, I splurged on the one you recommended and with your sale price, even with the 40$ shipping to US (that I know you can't do anything about) your price was right on with all other online vendors. But one big thing here, is you showed you had them in stock, where as every other vendor had no estimated date as they were drop shipping. Anyway a hour or so after placing my order, I couldn't believe that the missed call I had was you leaving a nice voicemail thanking me for my order and letting me know it was shipping out the following day. Thank you.
Happy to help and if you guys are willing to support us the least I can do is pick up the phone and say thank-you, sorry it had to be voice mail, Thank-You just the same! Good luck with the bench.
I'm seriously considering buying this for my first bench vise. But it is interesting that for all the engineering that went into this product, they couldn't adjust the depth enough so that you don't have to drill out for the nut and screw
Bought two of them for my work bench currently under construction, a 20" (With offset claming) and a 16" model. Will be mounting within the next few months.
I had a functional question for you, Rob. When selecting the material for your workbench and the jaws for your vice, would you ever select anything as hard as Osage orange? It’s extremely dense and heavy, which might make it a very good workbench material, but it’s also extremely hard which made dent other projects if they are struck against it.thoughts?
Glad you mentioned Frank Klausz. I met him at a Woodworking Show about 20 years ago. He convinced me to cut dovetails pins first after I had been cutting tails first for nearly 20 years. So far, your videos haven't been able to convince me to go back.
@@m88averick If you cut pins first, the full weight of the pin board holds holds it in place while you use it to mark the tail board. Much easier. Katz-Moses even sells a gadget (and pimps it on RUclips) to make it easier to align the parts when you mark the pins after cutting the tails. So obviously he, and many others, have problems with that task. No gadget needed if you cut pins first. Also, there's usually far more space available to get your knife or pencil in to mark around the pins than there is when you mark around the tails. Again, much easier. Remember, I cut tails first for nearly 20 years before Frank Klausz switched me around and now the only real advantage that I see to cutting tails first is that you can stack your tail boards and cut several at the same time.
Thanks Rob. Of course, I already know these are great vices having used them in your shop! But I already had a face vice that worked ok for me... until it didn't. So now I am replacing it with this one! As always, your videos are superb with comprehensive and thoughtful commentary and great tips!
Was a bit surprised you did not mention Andy Klein's Twin Turbo Vise. Was interested in your opinion of it. Enjoyed this post Rob, TY and TY for what u do for all of the veterans as I am one myself.
The Moxon is just a tiny, mobile version of a Twin-Screw vice, which is wider, deeper, uses heftier threads, and hangs on. They're *semi*-rack resistant and can absorb some angling in a piece because the two screws move separately. I often do use an anti-rack block on an opposite corner or edge if things are getting squirreley. I've had one attached to my bench for about a year now and have gotten used to its quirks. It's a great vice in terms of strength, holds things very strongly if they're square on a few faces, and they can be home-made for relatively cheap. It may not be a lot of "fun" to spin 3/4" standard thread rods through a few inches of travel, but they get the job done.
The best vises. The first few you say are really difficult and more for the expert. It sounds like anyone seeking those would already be an experienced woodworker. I was hoping for what the average woodworker would want. At least the last one with the installation instructions helped.
I can attest to the ease of use and adjustments, when I was there for the August PHP class (as a civilian ) their was a bench that needed to be adjusted. It took longer to get the wrenches than to tighten the bolt and get back to cutting dovetails. The vise is worth the investment !
This is an extremely helpful video. Watched you install the vice in the workbench video, but this video actually shows each and every step. Showing how to cut the wood for the vice and making it fit is something I would like to see. Excellent video thanks as always for sharing your expertise!
I built the Taige Frid workbench that was in Fine Woodworking 30 years ago. Love it. But would never build that tail vice again. I didn't understand it until I was almost done building it.
Thank you for this video! I'm glad I found it. The only complaint I had about this vise is the lack of information from Sjoberg. Your video filled in the gaps and now I'm read to install it. One question. Do you know how wide you can make the jaws? I was planning on going the entire width of the end of my bench. I'm wondering if 30" is too much for it.
Ordered this vise 5 months back and it finally arrived a three weeks ago. Haven't installed it yet as I am still thinking about building a new bench or adding this to my existing bench.
One thing the Moxon vice will do that the others won't do is clamp irregular shaped pieces. Being mostly a turner, I have very many 1 to 3 inch square pieces that were green and have dried, and none of them are straight. You can't do a good job of clamping these types of pieces in a vice that is supposed to clamp pieces that are already pretty straight.
I made a version of your great MDF bench, with this as the end vice and just noticed the dog hole you put in the side. I think that's a great idea and can think of ways to use it but am interested in how you use it?
I made a new leg vise from an old leg vise wooden screw that has almost 2ft jaw opening n started using it more then my end vise. I lined both jaw sets with cork board! Not only does it keep from marking up your stock but the little bit of give let's it "wrap" around small and odd shaped pieces with UNBELIEVABLE grip! It lets me clamp the crap outta stuff without using a lot of actual pressure on my wooden screw. It's probably my best shop secret!
Tip: If you line your vise jaws with leather cut the pieces oversized and glue them on using the vise to clamp them. Once the glue dries you can shave the excess leather off with a planer for a perfect fit.
With the added use of securing pieces of wood to the top of the table using dogs, is there any benefit of a tail vise versus this end mounted face vise with dog holes as you demonstrated?
I am likely going to use this vise for the end of my Anarchist’s bench. It’s 5” thick so my wood jaw will be 5” tall. I wonder if that’s too tall and the vise will tilt under closing pressure. I guess making the jaw thicker will help.
So the first vise acts like the old fashioned chrochet but allows for better pressure and unobstructed stock to be added, with limit to only the width of the scandanavian vice out leg. I can see the advantage for clamping, especially if you had a way of fitting a rail support accross the bottom of the bench for general support allowing the vise to keep the board flat against the bench side. So that is good for Z axis (vertical z,x or z,y) orientation of stock. The next vice also makes sense for holding steady stock on x axis with blocks along the x plain for movement along that side as the x plane is the longest side to work on so gives you the biggest motion for planing. So what operations would you not be able to cover with only the first two vises in such a configuration that I mentioned?
I watched the video on the tail vice from Jay Bates. It is awesome to see things from other channels I watch here. I have designed my own workbenches trying to see what will work for me. Seeing your bench you came up with I believe would be a good start to see what will work without spending much at first. Always enjoy the information you create here.
I made that vice after building English Joiner Bench ( Rex Krueger design). Very good vice, the leg is not mounted straight but in angle so I could use more clamping surface ( because of the vise screw), at the bottom I used a simple wedge system so to keep it from tilting and loosing the force and grip of the vise. It is not complicated to build, very strong and durable, but it fits to my bench design it's not suitable for all the benches so as Rob said because the vice is the most important instrument on the bench you should design it around it to get the most of it and enjoy your woodworking, and his vice looks just right!!
Is there some specific reason that your wagon vise has such a long potential travel? I have a bench with two - one on each side. They each have a travel of just the distance of the spacing between two dog holes. I've been able to seize any length I needed with one of these. The shorter travel also leaves more stable work area on the bench. Thanks for the discussion.
Its just personal preference. I wanted the vise to enage the board over the leg not at the end of the bench so I needed a long bit of travel to do that
Wow, Rob. Great Video. You have a new fan and subscriber. Question: How tall do you think I can go with the custom wood piece on the vice? I ask this, because I have a fairly deep apron that I would rather not go into. In other words: What would be the maximum height from the screw to the top that you would recommend. I don't want to stress the metal on the vise end too much. Thank you very much!
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
Hi Rob, is there a specific reason why you are using the Sjöbergs AV15 instead of the 'Elite' vise? The difference in weight is nearly double... The Elite version is heavier.
I have never tried it, but its just a moxon vise using their chain drive system so you only have to turn one handle instead of two wheels. I think moxon vise are very useful for what they are designed for
Although I can't be 100% certain, it really looks like the MDF itself serves as the inner jaw here. Not a big deal? I just built my first bench a few months ago, of a different design, but also with MDF top, and was concerned that work pieces constantly clamped against the MDF would nibble it away fairly soon. Due to a combination of limited experience/equipment and some design specifics, I went to a lot of trouble putting in red oak along that edge. The bench and vise are working well for me, but I wonder if I wasted a lot of hours unnecessarily. Thanks for the video, pretty informative even though it doesn't directly apply to me at this time.
I have built myself a Scandinavian vice like yours, a bit naif and simple made. But I would like to rebuild it properly. Could you please let me know the width of the jaw and the depth or thickness of the piece you can hold in it? Thank you
Good question. Or maybe, dumb question. What about the micojig system. Where they run a router with a dovetail bit right down the side of the table and then latch boards down with those micojig match fit clamps. It’s not exactly a Vice. But it’s not, not a Vice either.
I wish I could do something about what the postal system charge but unfortunately I cannot. Sjoberg is a sweedish company, made in sweeden so you might be able to get them from a European dealer cheaper
You are leaving out one of the most useful and least expensive: HARBOR FREIGHT. It is a great small bench that does everything a standard home shop has a need for. Plenty of holes and a vice and dogs and posts and 4 drawers and a shelf. What more could you ask for? Especially for the price. Commercial Quality - NO! Standard use Absolutely (not everyone has the money or use or room for a thousand dollar workbench) I think the vice costs more than the HF Workbench.
You Americans and Englishmen should make your life easier, and start using the metric system. 10 millimeter is one centimeter, 100 centimeters is one meter. It actually makes sense compared to what you are using 😜😁 you can thank me later 😉
Friend, I agree, BUT... it's like that other American oddity- monolingualism. Metric and "other" languages would be great except that we're already so grounded into our own weird stuff that to change at this point would be a major trauma!
Check out Rob's Best Workbench Video here: ruclips.net/video/O0kN1URBUUQ/видео.html
I’m 72 and finally building a proper workbench using 2 3/8” x8’ section of a piece of maple from a bowling alley. I am mounting a homemade Pask makes vice . Wish I had seen this vice before but I’ll try the one I made first. If it does not work I can redo it using the features of your vice , I especially like the rectangular tubes and method of adjusting the vice to eliminate or reduce any racking. Thanks for the overview of the various vices and their uses and misgivings. As always your video was complete ,easy to follow and understand. Greetings from Maine.
My face vise is a vintage Record 53 DE which is fine for most uses. Rob is spot on in that it does not work well for dovetailing...especially for longer pieces. Had to make a Moxon vise to solve that problem.
I use my Sjoberg vise daily and it is perfect. 3 years later and still no racking! Great video!
Great to hear!
I was in need of a bench vise since building my workbench almost 2 years ago, I originally ordered a Rockler branded one but it never showed up, and their customer service was so bad, I wasn't going to order from them again. After watching this, I splurged on the one you recommended and with your sale price, even with the 40$ shipping to US (that I know you can't do anything about) your price was right on with all other online vendors. But one big thing here, is you showed you had them in stock, where as every other vendor had no estimated date as they were drop shipping. Anyway a hour or so after placing my order, I couldn't believe that the missed call I had was you leaving a nice voicemail thanking me for my order and letting me know it was shipping out the following day. Thank you.
Happy to help and if you guys are willing to support us the least I can do is pick up the phone and say thank-you, sorry it had to be voice mail, Thank-You just the same! Good luck with the bench.
Rob your content never disappoints. I'm putting together your shoulder vice on my bench and it is a piece of art!
Send me some pics please
I'm seriously considering buying this for my first bench vise. But it is interesting that for all the engineering that went into this product, they couldn't adjust the depth enough so that you don't have to drill out for the nut and screw
Rob, love the vice. Question - if installing on the end of a sold wood bench, how would you allow for seasonal movement of the bench top? Thanks!
I think I will install mine to my new workbench this coming week. Thanks for the tips on installing one.
Well designed vice. I went with the 20" twin turbo vice from Andy Klein. I going to mount it on my Cosman bench. I made my bench 24" wide.
Andy's vice is an interesting one
Bought two of them for my work bench currently under construction, a 20" (With offset claming) and a 16" model. Will be mounting within the next few months.
I had a functional question for you, Rob. When selecting the material for your workbench and the jaws for your vice, would you ever select anything as hard as Osage orange? It’s extremely dense and heavy, which might make it a very good workbench material, but it’s also extremely hard which made dent other projects if they are struck against it.thoughts?
Glad you mentioned Frank Klausz. I met him at a Woodworking Show about 20 years ago. He convinced me to cut dovetails pins first after I had been cutting tails first for nearly 20 years. So far, your videos haven't been able to convince me to go back.
What's the argument for cutting pins first?
Stick with what you are comfortable with
@@m88averick If you cut pins first, the full weight of the pin board holds holds it in place while you use it to mark the tail board. Much easier. Katz-Moses even sells a gadget (and pimps it on RUclips) to make it easier to align the parts when you mark the pins after cutting the tails. So obviously he, and many others, have problems with that task. No gadget needed if you cut pins first. Also, there's usually far more space available to get your knife or pencil in to mark around the pins than there is when you mark around the tails. Again, much easier. Remember, I cut tails first for nearly 20 years before Frank Klausz switched me around and now the only real advantage that I see to cutting tails first is that you can stack your tail boards and cut several at the same time.
@@GM-gc8gg thanks for the info!
@@GM-gc8gg, the stacking is a powerful argument.
Thanks Rob. Of course, I already know these are great vices having used them in your shop! But I already had a face vice that worked ok for me... until it didn't. So now I am replacing it with this one! As always, your videos are superb with comprehensive and thoughtful commentary and great tips!
Was a bit surprised you did not mention Andy Klein's Twin Turbo Vise. Was interested in your opinion of it. Enjoyed this post Rob, TY and TY for what u do for all of the veterans as I am one myself.
I have not used or tested his vise so it would not be fair for me to comment on it. Its a face vise, very intereting look.
The Moxon is just a tiny, mobile version of a Twin-Screw vice, which is wider, deeper, uses heftier threads, and hangs on. They're *semi*-rack resistant and can absorb some angling in a piece because the two screws move separately. I often do use an anti-rack block on an opposite corner or edge if things are getting squirreley. I've had one attached to my bench for about a year now and have gotten used to its quirks. It's a great vice in terms of strength, holds things very strongly if they're square on a few faces, and they can be home-made for relatively cheap.
It may not be a lot of "fun" to spin 3/4" standard thread rods through a few inches of travel, but they get the job done.
The best vises. The first few you say are really difficult and more for the expert. It sounds like anyone seeking those would already be an experienced woodworker. I was hoping for what the average woodworker would want. At least the last one with the installation instructions helped.
I can attest to the ease of use and adjustments, when I was there for the August PHP class (as a civilian ) their was a bench that needed to be adjusted. It took longer to get the wrenches than to tighten the bolt and get back to cutting dovetails. The vise is worth the investment !
Thanks for th egreat comment
You guys are the best!!
thanks for watching
great video just subscribed thank you
This is an extremely helpful video. Watched you install the vice in the workbench video, but this video actually shows each and every step. Showing how to cut the wood for the vice and making it fit is something I would like to see. Excellent video thanks as always for sharing your expertise!
Glad it helped
I built the Taige Frid workbench that was in Fine Woodworking 30 years ago. Love it. But would never build that tail vice again. I didn't understand it until I was almost done building it.
I know right, I felt the same when I built one
For my uses, the Roxon style vise works as it has enough slop in it to adjust for the taper on guitar necks.
Moxon vise are awesome
@@trevorackroyd9931 Rocks on rocks off?
Thank you for this video! I'm glad I found it. The only complaint I had about this vise is the lack of information from Sjoberg. Your video filled in the gaps and now I'm read to install it. One question. Do you know how wide you can make the jaws? I was planning on going the entire width of the end of my bench. I'm wondering if 30" is too much for it.
Excellent explanation!
Ordered this vise 5 months back and it finally arrived a three weeks ago. Haven't installed it yet as I am still thinking about building a new bench or adding this to my existing bench.
send us a pic when you get it built
One thing the Moxon vice will do that the others won't do is clamp irregular shaped pieces. Being mostly a turner, I have very many 1 to 3 inch square pieces that were green and have dried, and none of them are straight. You can't do a good job of clamping these types of pieces in a vice that is supposed to clamp pieces that are already pretty straight.
I made a version of your great MDF bench, with this as the end vice and just noticed the dog hole you put in the side. I think that's a great idea and can think of ways to use it but am interested in how you use it?
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
thanks for watching
I made a new leg vise from an old leg vise wooden screw that has almost 2ft jaw opening n started using it more then my end vise. I lined both jaw sets with cork board! Not only does it keep from marking up your stock but the little bit of give let's it "wrap" around small and odd shaped pieces with UNBELIEVABLE grip! It lets me clamp the crap outta stuff without using a lot of actual pressure on my wooden screw. It's probably my best shop secret!
Did you build it with crosslinks or the traditional pin board?
Tip: If you line your vise jaws with leather cut the pieces oversized and glue them on using the vise to clamp them. Once the glue dries you can shave the excess leather off with a planer for a perfect fit.
Great tip, thanks
Hi Rob! Did you ever try the benchcrafted vise? Any comments on it?
What an absolute shame I found this a Year too late. As per usual, exceptional content Rob
With the added use of securing pieces of wood to the top of the table using dogs, is there any benefit of a tail vise versus this end mounted face vise with dog holes as you demonstrated?
I am likely going to use this vise for the end of my Anarchist’s bench. It’s 5” thick so my wood jaw will be 5” tall. I wonder if that’s too tall and the vise will tilt under closing pressure. I guess making the jaw thicker will help.
Really wish you would make a video on how to build the Scandinavian shoulder vice
Its on the list...tahts a very long video to make
Nice piece of Pink Ivory, where did ya get that???🤔 I like the Shoulder Vise.
Some bum sent me a piece
😂 😂 😂
So the first vise acts like the old fashioned chrochet but allows for better pressure and unobstructed stock to be added, with limit to only the width of the scandanavian vice out leg. I can see the advantage for clamping, especially if you had a way of fitting a rail support accross the bottom of the bench for general support allowing the vise to keep the board flat against the bench side. So that is good for Z axis (vertical z,x or z,y) orientation of stock.
The next vice also makes sense for holding steady stock on x axis with blocks along the x plain for movement along that side as the x plane is the longest side to work on so gives you the biggest motion for planing.
So what operations would you not be able to cover with only the first two vises in such a configuration that I mentioned?
What’s the brand of face vise with square guides?
I watched the video on the tail vice from Jay Bates. It is awesome to see things from other channels I watch here. I have designed my own workbenches trying to see what will work for me. Seeing your bench you came up with I believe would be a good start to see what will work without spending much at first. Always enjoy the information you create here.
Thats exactley why we designed it and when you build it if you really like it it can be your forever bench too
I made that vice after building English Joiner Bench ( Rex Krueger design). Very good vice, the leg is not mounted straight but in angle so I could use more clamping surface ( because of the vise screw), at the bottom I used a simple wedge system so to keep it from tilting and loosing the force and grip of the vise. It is not complicated to build, very strong and durable, but it fits to my bench design it's not suitable for all the benches so as Rob said because the vice is the most important instrument on the bench you should design it around it to get the most of it and enjoy your woodworking, and his vice looks just right!!
Is there some specific reason that your wagon vise has such a long potential travel? I have a bench with two - one on each side. They each have a travel of just the distance of the spacing between two dog holes. I've been able to seize any length I needed with one of these. The shorter travel also leaves more stable work area on the bench. Thanks for the discussion.
Its just personal preference. I wanted the vise to enage the board over the leg not at the end of the bench so I needed a long bit of travel to do that
Excellent, thanks.
You are welcome!
Wow, Rob. Great Video. You have a new fan and subscriber. Question: How tall do you think I can go with the custom wood piece on the vice? I ask this, because I have a fairly deep apron that I would rather not go into. In other words: What would be the maximum height from the screw to the top that you would recommend. I don't want to stress the metal on the vise end too much. Thank you very much!
Finally, Rob reveals all his vices. Well, apart from M'A'S'H' trivia and ice hockey.
Dang now I have no more secrets?
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
Comparing a workmate to a serious hand tool woodworking bench is like comparing a saltine to a ribeye.
Had a friend in the US buy one for me to pick up whilst over the Pond last week.
No I need to get the bench built...
Hi Rob, is there a specific reason why you are using the Sjöbergs AV15 instead of the 'Elite' vise? The difference in weight is nearly double... The Elite version is heavier.
They don’t sell it off the elite benches.
Very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Is there a link to order the vice?
Thank you!💜
You are so welcome
What are your thoughts on the Lie_Nielsen vice that clamps on top of the bench
I have never tried it, but its just a moxon vise using their chain drive system so you only have to turn one handle instead of two wheels. I think moxon vise are very useful for what they are designed for
Do you think they will give you a discount code for Black Friday 2024?
Rob, I didn’t see the discount in the description.
It’s in the video, not the description.
Damn looks like a great vise for beginner. Just saw hope discount appears again. Cut to convince wife it's a great investment. Keeps me home. Lol
Is 6:25 and 20:35 the same vice?
Great video. Is the code here? I can't see it Rob.
It’s in the video.
At the very end of the video
Although I can't be 100% certain, it really looks like the MDF itself serves as the inner jaw here. Not a big deal? I just built my first bench a few months ago, of a different design, but also with MDF top, and was concerned that work pieces constantly clamped against the MDF would nibble it away fairly soon. Due to a combination of limited experience/equipment and some design specifics, I went to a lot of trouble putting in red oak along that edge. The bench and vise are working well for me, but I wonder if I wasted a lot of hours unnecessarily. Thanks for the video, pretty informative even though it doesn't directly apply to me at this time.
I have built myself a Scandinavian vice like yours, a bit naif and simple made. But I would like to rebuild it properly. Could you please let me know the width of the jaw and the depth or thickness of the piece you can hold in it? Thank you
Hey Duke, I discuss those dimensions in the video.
Hi Duke, sorry, confused my videos. We discussed it on our live. ruclips.net/video/cUnjfG-5sj0/видео.html starting at the 1:29:00 mark.
Hey Rob thanks for another great video! If you haven't already checked it out, the twin turbo vise by Andy Klein is a fantastic tool.
I have seen it but never touched or used it. Sure is a lot of gears though
No quick release?
Quick release and racking or rectangular tubes and no racking, choose?
How do I make a coping toolbox
I love my HNT Gorden
which one? the front vise or wagon vise?
I have the front vise , saving for the tail.
You may be interested in his hand planes.
ruclips.net/video/uSvg6Wq0T-8/видео.html
Good question. Or maybe, dumb question. What about the micojig system. Where they run a router with a dovetail bit right down the side of the table and then latch boards down with those micojig match fit clamps.
It’s not exactly a Vice. But it’s not, not a Vice either.
that has its uses but I dont think it is a replacement for a good vice for wood holding
Noticed the hockey tape on the mallet handle, everybody in Canada plays hockey eh?
It’s cold!
Thank you for your very informative videos and God Bless you for what you do for the brave service members who keep our nation’s great.
It is both an honor and a privilege to work with these awesome people.
Where is this code? Is this from your store?
It’s in the video, and you can use it on our store, RobCosman.com
It's a shame that the shipping costs to France are so high . It is really the kind I need
I wish I could do something about what the postal system charge but unfortunately I cannot. Sjoberg is a sweedish company, made in sweeden so you might be able to get them from a European dealer cheaper
Will you please sell me the plans for building your workbench ? Thank you. John Bies , US ARMY Retired.
👍👍👍
thanks
❤️👍
$300! holly molly!
You are leaving out one of the most useful and least expensive: HARBOR FREIGHT.
It is a great small bench that does everything a standard home shop has a need for.
Plenty of holes and a vice and dogs and posts and 4 drawers and a shelf.
What more could you ask for? Especially for the price.
Commercial Quality - NO! Standard use Absolutely (not everyone has the money or use or room for a thousand dollar workbench)
I think the vice costs more than the HF Workbench.
Sjoberg? SJÖBERGS!
He (editor) is from the south!
What's the purpose of showing vices that are too complicated and expensive to build.
So you are in charge of vise. Just kidding.
I am the head vise
You Americans and Englishmen should make your life easier, and start using the metric system. 10 millimeter is one centimeter, 100 centimeters is one meter. It actually makes sense compared to what you are using 😜😁 you can thank me later 😉
Friend, I agree, BUT... it's like that other American oddity- monolingualism. Metric and "other" languages would be great except that we're already so grounded into our own weird stuff that to change at this point would be a major trauma!
How about the sloppy knuckle on your, "Premium" $500 shoulder vise. That thing wants to moon walk off my bench like Michael Jackson.