Innovative 60a vs 75a engine mounts
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- I missed a lot in the video.
But basically. The 60a is only slightly better than oem. Just with induced vibrations.
The 75a is much better than the 60a perforemance wise but the vibration is noticeably worse, however not much worse than the 60. The real difference is in drone.
The 75a drones much worse than the 60a.
I wish the 75a did not drone so much as the vibrations are very similar to the 60a and they perform much better.
I believe the 75a break in to feel like 60a(new). The 60a will probably be too soft once broken in.
I think mixing the two durometers is the best option. The driver and front mount is very hollow on the crx, Maybe they transfer the most nvh of the four mounts. The rear torque and passenger are the beefiest and probably do the most work and transfer the least vibration.
Variations in reviews can be impacted by chassis stiffness and mods.
Nice video! But please be careful mixing the different stiffness mounts, doing so will cause uneven loading on the engine and transmission's mounting points and can cause damage since the stiffest mounts will be carrying the most load and could create excessive load on those mounting points. You will likely be fine mixing 60A and 75A since there isn't a huge difference in the stiffness of those mounts, but I have heard of people cracking their block and such from mixing drastically different mounts like totally solid mounts and stock mounts. Hope this helps!
ditto i was so excited to keep the rear mount stock and replace all the rest my buddy told me NOPE replace them all either OEM or aftermarket but nevermix the two
youll be mad later when you gotta buy a whole new car
i listened LOL
False
@@HunterB738 Put one solid steel mount on your engine, leave the rest OEM, go drive your car hard for a while, and see what happens. The results won't be good.
@@averyalexander2303 I did. Nothing bad happened.
@@HunterB738 Yet. Hopefully nothing bad ever happens, but there's always that risk when you force something like a mounting point to take much more of a load than it was designed to. It also may take longer than expected. Metal fatigue is a thing. And just because something bad doesn't happen in one particular use case doesn't mean that it can't or won't in a different situation. It's just like driving drunk. Is it a guarantee that you will end up in an accident? No, but it's still a bad idea because it increases the odds of that happening.
I knew a guy who cracked the mounting point off of his truck's transmission case because he used a solid metal mount on the end of the transmission and left the stock mounts on the engine, which effectively caused the rear transmission mount to be subjected to all of the drivetrain's torque.
Think of getting the Innovative 60A ? for my 07 FA5 . Can’t find in Hasport brand. I already installed Hasport upper passenger torque mount 62A & Hasport rear mount 62A. Awesome! Nice & tight and a little vibration.
Thank you. ✌🏽😎🍻
Couldn't you like stick a screwdriver through the hole and pry on them to show the stiffness??
I'm trying to put a 93 engine gearbox in a 91 Honda Civic LX body frame. What kind of engine mount kit I could use to hold the 93 Honda Civic engine with gear box in the 1991 Honda Civic LX run it and drive it
I'm on 75a it's just too much vibrations on my acura tls so I'm just curious if 60a will be less uncomfortable. Thx for the review.
Hey, 60a is less harsh but still not comfortable. Im only running the 60a trans mount on my car. Its enough for me. Try just running one so you dont have to buy another kit.
Whole kit vibrates more?
Grow tf and stop being a b**ch
can you beleieve I've installed 95A in my stock engine vibrate like an adulttoy
70A is THE BEST. Best of both worlds, still soft enough to absorb vibration, but hard enough to keep the motor from moving. Try the hard rubber 70A from MEGAN RACING brand. Instead of poly try using solid hard rubber.
Love how nobody is getting the 85a...
Omg im running just the 60a passenger only now.
Its not worth losing your hearing over
Do the mounts come with bolts Or can you use the oem ones
You use the oem ones. On the transmission, the bolt is part of the mount, and the kit includes a bolt. For my crx that is.
You need a spacer for the driver side and shims for the engine mounts though. Look through my other vids to see what i mean.
How did you get 60a in red?
The 60a comes in red as standard option.
75a is black
80a is gray and 90a is a cherry red.
fyi I took all the mounts out and am running all stock mounts with just the 75a passenger mount
@@iivv_nn why did you take them out? I'm thinking about getting 60a for my Em1 Gsr. I don't want vibration, just want to improve stock.
The best thing you can do to get a nice feel. Is to put 75a mount on driver + passenger sides and keep 60a for the rear mount or stock mount on the back. I had to remove the 75A rear mount. It was too aggressive way too much
The driver and sides carry the engine. They transfer the most vibration. The rear is the best you can do.
That is the torque mount .
Just get a 60a rear
[i] ven ohh ok yes that makes sense but my rear mount was in good condition still but ima put that rear mount in later on
My rear mount went out I have the billet 60a
@@bigmoneyrhd6584 difference in billet and steel 1s??
Is 62a good?
I would just fill the oem mounts. Its much better. Do trans one first
Junk mounts get hasport
Are they better? Vibrations? These are so stiff, took em off except the trsnsmission mount.
@@iivv_nn how long did you run them? Break in period should be a couple hundred miles
@@jamesyoung5610 like 300 miles they get better but not by much
This brand is way overpriced