Actually sir you don't measure ripple from a battery, ripple is measured as AC current at the alternator. Also millohms has nothing to do with ripple but rather internal resistance as the battery ages.
How nice to watch a video with the protective plastic screen removed, so you can actually see the screen. Your comparison of the three batteries was great and helped me understand better what is going on. I also have these two battery testers and just now doing my own comparison. So far I like both, however the BT100 is becoming my fav.
I agree John. The BT100 is now my main goto mainly because of the memory function and my customers being able to easily understand what's going on with their battery. Cheers! And YES......Those protective screens are always gone as soon as I take anything out of the box/package. Cheers! Zip~
I don't have a Topdon but I got a desulfator which works better than I thought. I also have the old 100 amp toaster type I have been limping my old tractor batteries for years. I just jinxed myself. LOL
I have an ArtiBattery 101 that I picked up earlier this year and it does not have the in/out of vehicle selection, nor does it have the before/after charge selection in the battery test. Also I'm pretty sure it spells out Health and Charge on the results too. They must've upgraded the firmware in them. I'm happy with my 101.
Yes, they did upgrade the firmware to be more user friendly. I've had mine since 2018. Both are great units and worlds above the Cen-Tech I had been using prior. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga but I think it is better to have the in/out vehicle selection and to have the before/after charge selection. It seems like backwards to get rid of those options
Hello, when doing charging test do you know what load it puts into the battery - alternator system? I have seen other testers that ask you to turn on lights and fan blower. By the way I think the older AB 101 is more precise because it has the in/out vehicle selection and the before/ after vehicle selection. Also the older one detects rpm increase. I think the older one is better
Unfortunately you get what you pay for when it comes to testers, and with the offshore stuff the numbers are not always correct which is what you're looking for. In my opinion spend the money and grab a better product like a midtronics, made in America. They are the only units that are approved for oem return at dealerships.
Yes, it would David. But only on the State of Health. I was mainly comparing actual CCA between the two and yes, I should have made sure the CCA were the same. Thanks for pointing this out! Cheers! Zip~
Hows it going I have a question that is not related to this particular video. But I just picked up a 1967 allis chalmers b10 and I'm trying to figure out how to wire up a 12v car coil can you give me some pointers?
Hi Bob. My suggestion is to fix it correctly. I've got a very helpful library of videos you can search on my channel to help you with engine related issues, but I don't encourage anyone to install something on an engine that isn't designed for the engine. My apologies. But your replacement coil part number is 298968 and are readily available. Just search "Briggs 298968". The whole job can be done in a couple of hours and I've got an engine removal video with step by step instructions here: ruclips.net/video/xIGa4W9lTEc/видео.html Good luck! Zip~
Topdon BT100 Available Here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08973RB5Y
Topdon ArtiBattery101 Available Here: www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDDDSK9
Actually sir you don't measure ripple from a battery, ripple is measured as AC current at the alternator. Also millohms has nothing to do with ripple but rather internal resistance as the battery ages.
How nice to watch a video with the protective plastic screen removed, so you can actually see the screen. Your comparison of the three batteries was great and helped me understand better what is going on. I also have these two battery testers and just now doing my own comparison. So far I like both, however the BT100 is becoming my fav.
I agree John. The BT100 is now my main goto mainly because of the memory function and my customers being able to easily understand what's going on with their battery. Cheers! And YES......Those protective screens are always gone as soon as I take anything out of the box/package. Cheers! Zip~
I don't have a Topdon but I got a desulfator which works better than I thought. I also have the old 100 amp toaster type I have been limping my old tractor batteries for years. I just jinxed myself. LOL
I have an ArtiBattery 101 that I picked up earlier this year and it does not have the in/out of vehicle selection, nor does it have the before/after charge selection in the battery test. Also I'm pretty sure it spells out Health and Charge on the results too. They must've upgraded the firmware in them. I'm happy with my 101.
Yes, they did upgrade the firmware to be more user friendly. I've had mine since 2018. Both are great units and worlds above the Cen-Tech I had been using prior. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga but I think it is better to have the in/out vehicle selection and to have the before/after charge selection. It seems like backwards to get rid of those options
Great test, exactly what I wanted. I have the 101 and this just pushed me a bit to get the newer BT100 :-) Thanks
Great to hear!
Check connecting.... Gotta love Engrish
😂lol, I know! There's a couple of those Engrish words floating around in this thing. Cheers Moe! Zip~
Might have to invest in one of those top don right there. Good info on the batterys.
Hello, when doing charging test do you know what load it puts into the battery - alternator system?
I have seen other testers that ask you to turn on lights and fan blower.
By the way I think the older AB 101 is more precise because it has the in/out vehicle selection and the before/ after vehicle selection.
Also the older one detects rpm increase.
I think the older one is better
I so need one of these when I get some extra money I have bunch of battery’s To test
Unfortunately you get what you pay for when it comes to testers, and with the offshore stuff the numbers are not always correct which is what you're looking for. In my opinion spend the money and grab a better product like a midtronics, made in America. They are the only units that are approved for oem return at dealerships.
Be well my friend.
Cheers Eric 💈
Around 6 min you said the CCA was 220 using the old tester and then with the new tested CCA at 200. That would make a difference
Yes, it would David. But only on the State of Health. I was mainly comparing actual CCA between the two and yes, I should have made sure the CCA were the same. Thanks for pointing this out! Cheers! Zip~
Hows it going I have a question that is not related to this particular video. But I just picked up a 1967 allis chalmers b10 and I'm trying to figure out how to wire up a 12v car coil can you give me some pointers?
Hi Bob. My suggestion is to fix it correctly. I've got a very helpful library of videos you can search on my channel to help you with engine related issues, but I don't encourage anyone to install something on an engine that isn't designed for the engine. My apologies. But your replacement coil part number is 298968 and are readily available. Just search "Briggs 298968". The whole job can be done in a couple of hours and I've got an engine removal video with step by step instructions here: ruclips.net/video/xIGa4W9lTEc/видео.html Good luck! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga awesome thank you for the reply! Do you happen to know where I can find a factory wire diagram including the coil to points wiring?
@@97StiOutback There is only one wire going from the coil to the points Bob. So it's really strait forward.
A must watch: a "TOP DON"
😂🤣 YES! Watch Don!!
@@ZippoVarga I couldn't resist....
Great watch !